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BriiUc  over  the  Tearl  Rh 


CHINA 

THE       COUNTRY 
AND      ITS      PEOPLE 


By    G.    WALDO    BROWNE 

WITH      AN      INTRODUCTION 

By  the   HON.  JOHN   D.   LONG 


DANA     ESTES     &     COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS        :        :        :        :        BOSTON 


Copyright,  igot 
By  Dana  Estes  &  Company 


All  rights  reservea 


CHINA. 

BY 

JOHN   D.   LONG, 

SECRETARY  OF   THE  NAVY. 


With  the  opening  of  the  twentieth  century  China  begins  to  cease  to  remain  an  iso- 
lated  empire,  impenetrable,  mysterious,  unknown,  and  to  become  a  part  of  the  federa- 
tion of  the  world.  As  the  narrow-minded  Greek  regarded  every  foreigner  as  a 
barbarian,  so  we  have  been  brought  up  to  regard  with  a  sort  of  contemptuous  conde- 
scension the  character,  the  religion,  the  literature,  and  the  institutions  of  this  great 
people.  As  the  territorial  barriers  are  breaking  down,  so  also  are  the  barriers  of  prej- 
udice and  misconception.  The  child  is  living  that  will  see  the  Mongolian  ranking  with 
the  races  of  the  West  and  vying  with  them  in  the  strenuous  competitions  of  civilisation. 
Stirred  from  her  palsy,  and  stimulated  by  contact  with  the  industrial  and  commercial 
activities  which  are  circling  the  earth  like  electric  wires,  China  will  emerge  from  her 
seclusion;  and  her  people,  whether  under  one  government,  or  seeking  the  convenience 
of  separate  forms  of  national  life,  will  take  their  place  in  the  march  of  common 
progress. 

China's  beginning  has  no  date.  It  is  lost  in  the  mists  of  the  morning  of  the  world. 
She  antedates  the  rise  of  Egypt,  Greece,  Carthage,  Rome,  and  she  saw  their  fall. 
Confucius  was  a  religious  teacher  five  hundred  years  before  Christ.  Whether  the 
original  seed  from  which  China  sprang  came  from  the  banks  of  the  Nile  or  of  the 
Caspian  Sea,  the  soil  in  which  it  lodged  was  that  watered  by  the  Yellow  River.  Gain- 
ing little  by  conquest,  absorbing  her  conquerors,  originally'  restricted  in  territory, 
China  now  stretches  over  sixty  degrees  of  longitude  and  thirty-four  degrees  of  latitude, 
and  embraces  every  variety  of  soil  and  climate.  To-day  four  hundred  million  people 
acknowledge  her  rule.  Her  history,  after  all,  is  the  common  history  of  every  race.  In 
her  long  line  of  rulers  have  been  exemplified  the  wisdom  and  military  genius  of  a 
Caesar  and  the  debaucheries  of  a  Nero.  She  has  had  her  Augustan  era  and  her  Renais- 
sance. Mencius  was  her  Socrates.  She  has  had  her  Helen  of  Troy,  her  Joan  of  Arc, 
and  her  Catharines.  Her  poets  have  sung,  her  novelists  and  dramatists  have  written, 
and  her  literature  is  rich.  She  searched  the  sky  and  her  astronomers  studied  the  stars 
before  Ptolemy.  Her  engineers  built  canals  and  bridges,  and  her  Great  Wall  is  an  evi- 
dence of  their  skill,  and  of  the  industiy  of  her  people.  Medicine  early  opened  its  pages 
to  her  students.  Other  sciences  also  gave  of  their  beneficent  stores  to  lier  welfare. 
Printing  was  invented  in  China  nearly  nine  hundred  years  before  it  became  known  in 
Europe.  Her  historical  and  encyclopa?dic  records  are  extensive.  Education,  though 
of  a  limited  range,  has  been  widespread  among  her  male  population,  being  the  main  ave 


X  INTRODUCTION. 

nue  to  honour  and  official  career.  Her  domestic  and  social  life  has  been  one  of  quiet 
enjoyment,  and  nowhere  has  filial  piety  had  finer  illustrations.  Her  government  has 
been  patriarchal,  and  her  religion,  as  taught  by  Confucius,  whose  name  to  China  is  as 
that  of  Christ  to  the  West,  largely  enforces  the  precepts  of  Christian  ethics.  And 
to-day,  in  business,  mechanics,  manufactures,  trade,  literature,  education,  diplomacy, 
oratory,  and  all  the  various  arts  of  peace,  she  has  a  showing  with  the  Christian  nations 
of  the  world,  thougli  falling  far  behind  them  in  the  Christian  art  of  war. 

In  the  sixth  century,  when  the  glorious  Tang  dynasty  was  in  its  youth,  Chinese 
arms  battered  down  the  wall  separating  Cathay  —  China's  ancient  name  —  from  Europe. 
In  the  thirteeth  century  the  great  Venetian  traveller,  Marco  Polo,  penetrated  the  Chinese 
court.  He  laid  the  foundation  of  what  might  have  been  a  splendid  edifice  of  mutual 
esteem  between  the  Chinese  and  the  outer  world.  But  the  Portuguese,  who  made  their 
first  appearance  in  1516,  by  their  cruel  aggressions  destroyed  his  work,  and  in  its  stead 
established  the  base  of  the  recent  structure  of  anti-foreign  hatred.  Later  the  soldiers 
of  Spain  were  guilty  of  a  massacre  of  Chinese  in  Manila.  Not  as  barbarous,  the 
English  were  not  tactful  in  their  efforts  to  open  the  door  of  Chinese  trade.  The 
glories  of  the  East  which  Marco  Polo  described  upon  his  return  to  Venice,  and  the  con- 
firmation of  his  reports  by  later  travellers  and  traders,  fired  England  with  a  desire  to 
share  in  the  advantages  of  contact  and  commerce  with  the  Oriental  Empire.  Queen 
Elizabeth  despatched  a  commission  to  Pekin.  Disaster  overtook  it  before  it  reached 
iJbs  destination.  English  traders  became  England's  diplomats.  Then  of  course  war.  In 
1637  the  Chinese  forts  which  protected  Canton  were  bombarded  and  occupied,  and 
their  evacuation  by  the  belligerent  foreigners  did  not  occur  until  the  latter  had  disposed 
of  the  cargoes  their  ships  had  brought. 

Friendship  rarely  crowns  relations  established  by  force.  Though  advantageous  to 
foreign  peoples,  China  found  little  recompense  for  contact  with  them.  During  the 
greater  part  of  the  reign  of  the  Mongol  dynasty,  every  encouragement  had  been  given 
Eoman  missionaries  to  spread  their  faith  in  northern  China,  but  the  reestablishment 
of  a  Chinese  dynasty  seems  to  have  been  followed  by  their  expulsion.  Undoubtedly 
the  wrongs  perpetrated  by  the  Portuguese  and  Spaniards  were  potent  causes  for  the 
determination  of  the  emperor  to  exclude  foreigners  from  China.  The  missionaries  who 
sought  admission  to  the  empire  after  this  decision  was  reached  were  brusquely 
informed  that  they  were  not  wanted.  After  patient  endeavour,  the  Eoman  Church 
finally  succeeded  in  effecting  reentrance.  Intimate  knowledge  of  the  Chinese  language 
and  Chinese  literature,  and  recognition  of  some  of  the  least  superstitious  of  the  native 
ceremonials,  enabled  them  to  acquire  an  influence  which  might  —  though  it  is  not 
likely  —  have  served  as  the  lever  for  turning  the  whole  empire  from  Confucianism, 
Taoism,  Buddhism,  and  Mohammedanism  to  Christianity.  But  the  people  became 
incensed  at  the  denunciation  of  the  worship  of  their  ancestors,  and  at  the  interference 
by  missionaries  in  behalf  of  conyerts  in  the  native  courts.  Experience  and  time 
changed  neither  the  view  of  the  zealous  servant  of  Christ  nor  of  the  nation  he  would 


INTRODUCTION.  xi 

proselytec  The  religion  of  the  one  bade  him  bear  the  message  of  good-will,  even 
though  its  rejection  were  indubitable.  The  character  of  his  reception  by  the  other,  as 
the  nineteenth  century  rolled  into  the  past,  was  tempered  by  the  knowledge  of  the 
crushing  might  that  lay  behind  him.  Though  the  ethics  taught  by  the  Bible  have 
much  in  common  with  those  proclaimed  by  Confucius,  and  though  China  was  origi- 
nally tolerant  of  all  religions,  her  experience  with  the  West  developed  an  antagonism 
which  manifested  itself  in  anti-Christian  outrages  and  which  gave  evidence  of  its 
strength  in  the  Boxer  movement  of  1900.  But  the  blame  for  this  movement  cannot 
be  entirely  placed  upon  the  shoulders  of  the  missionary.  He  was  one  factor.  Foreign 
aggression  was  the  other. 

Western  trade  early  chafed  under  the  restrictions  imposed  by  the  Imperial  Govern- 
ment. Their  removal  or,  at  least,  their  modification  was  persistently  sought  by  the 
commercial  powers.  In  the  eighteenth  century  six  nations  were  engaged  in  trade  with 
China  through  the  single  port  of  Canton,  —  Portugal,  England,  Holland,  Spain,  France, 
and  the  United  States.  The  first  appearance  of  America  as  a  competitor  in  Oriental 
commerce  occurred  when  the  thirteen  American  colonies,  revolting  from  British 
sovereignty,  were  clumsily  working  together  under  the  makeshift  of  the  Confederation. 
None  of  the  European  governments,  thus  apprised  of  its  latest  rival,  was  gifted  with 
the  prescience  to  see  in  this  pioneer  the  leader  of  a  fleet  which  would  curry  a  com- 
merce more  valuable  than  that  of  any  of  them  save  one,  —  Great  Britain,  —  and  which 
by  leaps  and  bounds,  a  century  later,  was  to  make  great  strides  in  overtaking  the  lead 
which  that  one  had  acquired. 

Foreign  aggression  placed  its  hand  heavily  upon  the  empire  in  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury. Her  people  enervated  by  the  effects  of  opium,  and  her  treasury  depleted  of 
silver  used  to  pay  for  that  drug,  China  prohibited  its  importation  and  brought  upon 
herself  the  "opium  war"  which  lasted  from  1840  until  1842.  Ignominious  defeat 
compelled  her  to  sue  for  peace.  Hong-kong,  the  first  territory  alienated  to  the  West, 
was  ceded  to  her  conqueror.  Great  Britain,  the  United  States,  and  France,  negotiated 
treaties  which  removed  some  of  the  obstacles  in  the  way  of  trade  and  accorded  to  their 
nationals  the  privilege  of  extra-territoriality  —  one  of  the  great  humiliations  under 
which  China  has  smarted.  The  T'ai  P'ing  revolt  embarrassed  the  central  government 
from  1850  until  1864.  Its  suppression  was  hampered  by  fresh  difficulties  witli  foreign 
nations  which  culminated  in  the  extension  by  France  of  a  nominal  protectorate  over 
Annam,  and  by  the  British  and  French  occupation  of  Fekin  in  1860.  New  treaty  con- 
cessions, including  the  maintenance  of  diplomatic  representatives  in  Pekin  and  the 
protection  of  missionaries  in  the  interior,  were  exacted  of  China.  The  entire  West 
claimed  and  was  granted  the  right  to  enjoy  them.  Forced  into  international  relations, 
and  appreciating  that  her  military  power  was  inadequate  to  defend  her  territory 
against  foreign  attack,  China  secured  from  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  in 
1868  a  promise  never  to  intervene  in  Chinese  goyernnicntal  affairs,  —  a  promise  the 
Washington  government  has  consistently   observed.     War  with   France  in  1884-85 


xii  INTRODUCTION. 

resulted  in  the  cession  of  Tonquin  and  Annam  to  the  victor.  Beyond  this,  it  induced 
China  to  organise  a  navy,  which,  however,  suffered  overwhelming  defeat  during  the 
war  with  Japan  in  1894. 

Japanese  arms  exposed  the  weakness  of  an  empire  that  sprawled  over  a  large  part 
of  Asia.  Taking  advantage  of  its  inability  to  resist,  foreign  nations  demanded  conces- 
sions which  were  granted  to  prevent  still  greater  misfortunes.  But  the  rapacity  of 
European  governments  knew  no  bounds.  In  retaliation  for  the  murder  of  two  German 
missionaries,  Geimany  seized  Kiao  Chou  and  imposed  other  demands,  —  exacting  an 
indemnity  far  disproportionate  to  the  seriousness  of  the  crime  committed.  Russia, 
which  had  forced  Japan  to  relinquish  the  Liao  Tung  peninsula,  occupied  Talien  Wan 
and  Port  Arthur,  To  preserve  the  balance  of  power  in  the  north  of  China,  Great 
Britain  acquired  Wei-hai-wei.  France  took  possession  of  Kwang-chow  Bay,  and  Great 
Britain  added  the  Kowloon  promontory  to  Hong-koug.  Spheres  of  influence  were 
outlined  and  the  chancellories  of  Europe  frankly  described  the  territories  their  gov- 
ernments should  seize  in  case  of  partition.  Railroad  and  mining  concessions  were 
demanded  as  matters  of  right.  The  coastwise  trade,  which  had  been  historically 
carried  by  native  junks,  was  largely  transferred  to  foreign  steamers.  Spoliation 
seemed  to  be  the  fate  of  China. 

Reform  was  the  panacea  which  the  emperor  adopted  for  the  ills  of  his  empire. 
Resistance  was  the  remedy  advocated  by  the  conservatives.  Supported  by  the  latter, 
the  empress  dowager  resumed  the  reins  of  government  in  September,  1898.  Prepara- 
tions to  oppose  foreign  aggression  were  begun,  —  a  course  which  received  the  cordial 
approval  of  the  people.  A  vast  volunteer  army  was  organised.  Urged  on  by  the 
impetuosity  of  fanatical  leaders,  hostilities  were  inaugurated  against  foreigners^ 

Guilty  of  violating  the  most  sacred  laws  of  international  hospitality,  China's  recent 
conduct  must  yet  be  judged  in  the  light  of  the  wrongs  she  had  suffered.  Aware  as 
she  was  of  Western  strength,  the  courage  which  prompted  her  to  throw  her  glove  in 
the  face  of  all  nations  compels  acknowledgment.  There  could,  of  course,  be  but  one 
result  of  war  against  the  rest  of  the  world.  She  again  suffered  humiliation,  and  she 
will  be  compelled  to  pay  for  her  temerity  by  complying  with  terms  which  might  well 
crush  a  less  resourceful  uation.  Both  in  the  operations  necessary  to  effect  the  relief 
of  the  legations  besieged  in  Pekin,  and  in  the  subsequent  diplomatic  negotiations,  the 
United  States,  besides  affording  proper  protection  to  American  interests,  has  observed 
that  policy  of  unselfishness  which  has  historically  guided  it  in  its  relations  with  China. 
Substantial  evidence  of  its  support  of  this  policy  is  furnished  by  the  small  claim  for 
indemnity  it  recently  submitted ;  by  its  proposal  to  reduce  that  claim  by  half  if  other 
nations  would  take  like  action;  by  its  refusal  to  join  in  firing  on  the  Taku  forts;  and 
by  its  being  the  first  power  to  withdraw  its  armed  forces  from  Pekin.  Throughout 
the  negotiations,  its  purpose  has  been  tempered  with  justice  and  leniency,  and  it  has 
made  haste  to  be  considerate  and  helpful.  Though  the  Imperial  Government  is  bur- 
dened by  the  exaction  of  excessive  indemnities,  Chinese  entity  has  been  preserved,  and 


INTRODUCTION.  xiii 

China  will  again  soon  be  free  to  resume  the  task  of  carving  out  her  own  destiny,  in 
which  task  she  is  entitled  to  our  cordial  sympathy. 

Prior  to  the  Boxer  movement,  Chinese  patriotism  was  either  a  thing  unknown  or 
unappreciated  in  the  West.  The  unity  of  the  North  and  the  difficulty  with  which  the 
viceroys  restrained  the  South  during  the  national  outbreak  of  1900  gave  evidence  of 
the  existence  of  a  strong  love  of  country  in  the  Chinese  breast.  The  conduct  of  the 
Allies  in  Chi  Li  has  intensified  the  hatred  of  the  natives  for  things  Western.  Defeat 
established  Chinese  inability  to  meet  modern  armies  with  unorganised  mobs,  and 
modern  ordnance  with  the  tools  of  husbandry.  The  English  have  demonstrated  that 
the  yellow  man,  capably  led,  is  excellent  military  material.  Eradication  of  native 
prejudice  against  the  profession  of  arms  and  creation  of  well-drilled  regiments  are 
vital  to  China's  existence.  Foreign  greed,  which  manifested  itself  prior  to  the  Boxer 
outbreak,  will  renew  its  assault  when  the  Chinese  government  resumes  power  in  Pekiu. 
Suffering  from  Western  avariciousness  and  awakened  to  the  need  of  foreign  innovations 
by  the  lash  of  Western  enterprise,  who  can  doubt,  however,  that  China  will  engraft  the 
civilisation  of  the  West  upon  the  trunk  of  what  for  centuries  was  the  glory  of  the 
East,  and  under  the  influence  of  modern  institutions  return  to  the  position  of  power 
and  culture  which  she  held  in  the  halcyon  days  of  the  Han  dynasty  ?  Thus,  by  God's 
hard  but  moulding  hand,  through  the  selfishness  and  the  strife  of  men  and  nations, 
through  greed  and  outrage  on  the  one  hand  and  prejudice  and  encrustation  on  the 
other,  through  the  fierce  drive  for  gain  and  adventure,  —  the  trader  more  a  factor  thuu 
the  missionary,  —  the  slow  welding  of  old  empires,  peoples,  and  institutions  upon  new 
and  better  ones  goes  cruelly  and  brutally,  but  progressively  on.  China  as  a  name,  a 
form  of  government,  an  entity,  is  nothing,  as  every  other  nation  as  a  name,  a  form  of 
government,  an  entity,  is  nothing;  but  China  as  a  people  —  one-quarter  of  the  human 
race  —  is  henceforth,  as  is  every  other  people,  under  whatever  name  or  form  of  gov- 
ernment it  may  be,  sure  to  share  in  the  better  things  of  that  coming  progress  and 
civilisation  of  the  world,  when  "the  kindly  earth  shall  slumber,  lapt  in  universal 
law,"  and  fifty  years  of  Europe  shall  be  one  with  fifty  years  of  Cathay. 

JOHX  D.   LoxG. 


CONTENTS 


I.  Glimpses  of  the  Axciext  Shore 

II.  The  Mountain  Monastery 

III.  The  Island  of  Flowers     . 

IV.  The  Hub  of  the  World    . 
V.  Tlie  Three  Eivers 

VI.  Modern   Canton 

VII.  Along  West  River     . 

VIII.  Natural  Wonders 

IX.  The  Head  of  Eiver  Navigation 

X.  Some  Chinese   Customs     . 

XI.  The  Highlands  of  China 

XII.  The  Land  of  the  "  Golden  Theth 

XIII.  The  Eiver  of  the  Golden  Sand 

XIV.  In  Darkest  Tibet 

XV.  Tl[e  Mountaineers  of  China    . 

XVI.  Birds  of  China  .... 

XVII.  Village   Life      .... 

XVin.  The  Country   Schools 

XIX.  The  Women  of  China 

XX.  Upber  Yangtse  Kiang 

XXI.  Picturesque  China     . 

XXII.  The  Grand  Caxon  of  the  Great  Ei 

XXTII.  From  the  IMountains  to  the  Sea 

XXIV.  Shanghai,  the  City  of  Commerce 

XXV.  Footprints  in   I'lii-;  Sands  of  Centui 

XXVI.  The  Era  of  Chinese  Chivalry 

XXVII.  The  Dynasty  of  the  ^Mongols  . 


lES 


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VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER 

XXVIII.  liMPEUiAL  Hunting  -  GUOUNDS 

XXIX.  The  Mings  and  Manciius 

XXX.  How  Europe  Entered  China 

XXXI.  The  Taiping  Rebellion 

XXXII.  Foreign    Influence    . 

XXXIII.  The  Oiider  of  the  Sword 

XXXIV.  The  Imperial  Capital 
XXXV.  The  Siege  in  Pekin  . 

XXXVI.  China  at  the  Beginning  of  the  New  Century 


PAGE 

338 
349 
360 
378 
389 
405 
419 
443 
462 


FULL   PAGE    ENGRAVINGS 


Bridge  over  the  Pearl  Ru-er  at  Canton.     Photoyravu 

KoLOOX,  A  Military  Station  opposite   Hong  -  koxg 

British   Troops,   Hong  -  kong 

A    Chinese    Junk  .... 

Hong  -  kong    Harbour 

A   Chinese   Navy  Yard 

Modes  of  Conveyance,   Hong -kong   . 

A   Public   Garden,   Hong  -  kong 

Rear  of  a  Private  House,  Hong  -  kong 

The  Sowkewan   Road  near  Whitefield  Station,   Hon 

Beacoxsfield      Arcade,'      and      Hong  -  kong      and      Sh 

Buildings  ..... 

Canton  from  the   River  Front  . 
The   French   Cathedral  in   Canton 
A    Mandarin's    House,    Canton 
A    Private    Garden,    Canton 
An    Execution   at   Canton 
Farm    Houses,    Canton 
Private    House,    Canton        .         .         . 
Educational   Towers,   Canton 
River   Scene,    Canton    .... 
A    Residence,    Canton 
Images    to    Frighten    Away    Evil    Spirits    at    Entran 

Canton  

House-tops   and   Pagoda  on   Wai.i,.   Xative   City 

Pawn  -  brokers'    Storehouse,    Canton 

Good  I^uck   Pagoda,  near  Canton 

A    Chinese    Garden        .... 

Bridge   at  Soushow        .... 

A    Chinese    Labourer    ... 

Temple   of   Tinghai,    Chusan 

Rice    Threshing    at   Shanghai    . 

Chinese    Priest,    Shanghai 

Pagoda  at  Siccawei,   near    Shanghai 

Chinese    Ladies,    Shanghai 

Walls  of  Shanghai,  Native  City 


-  KO 
NGH 


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290 

viii  FULL  PAGE  ENGEAVINGS. 

PAGE 

Entuakce   to  a   Piiivate   House,   Shanghai "  298 

A   SuBUUB   OF   Shanghai        . "  306 

Tea  -  HOUSE,   SHA>fGHAi,    Native    City "  314 

Bridge  at  Pootoo "  323 

The    Examination    Hall      ..........  "  330 

The    Bund,    Shamien "  338 

Fort   Opposite    Shamien "  346 

Pagoda   at    Ningpo "  370 

The    French   Concession,   Shamien "  378 

Chinese    Firemen "  394 

Astronomical    Instruments,    Pekin "  402 

Grandfather,   Father,   and   Son "  418 

Chinese   Soldiers   at   Woosung "  434 

Chinese   Shoemakers,   Pekin '    .        .        .        .  "  450 

Chinese   Jugglers "  466 


Colored  Map  of  China 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS, 


A  Chinese  Fatuily  —  Mother,  Son, 
AND   Daughter   . 

Sampans  and  Jinrikishas 

Kankin   Donkey 

Soldiers  at  Nankin 

A  Chinese  Family  . 

Buddhist  Nun  and  Attendant 

Sea  View  at  Pootoo 

Imperial  Maritiime  Customs  House 

Island  in  the  Ri\t:r  Yangtse 

Pagoda  in  Southern  China  . 

The  Bund  at  Hankow    . 

Procession  of  Buddhist  Priests  En- 
tering  Temple    .... 

Curiously  Shaped  Rocks   (Pootoo) 

Stone  Camels  at  Ming  To:mbs 

Chinese    Pony 

View  near  Ting  -  Hal,  Chusan  Archi 

PELAGO  ..... 

Mausoleum  of  a   Nobleman    . 
Buddhist  Temple      .... 
Water   Buffaloes      .... 
Gang      of      Prisoners      Wearing      the 

Cangue         

Bridge   near  Shanghai   . 

A  Lotus  Pond 

View  in   Hong  -  Kong 
Wire  -  rope  Tramway,  Hong  -  Kong 
Hao  -  Ku  Temple  at  Hong  -  Kong 
City   Hall  at  Hong  -  Kong    . 
Steamer    Running    from    Hong  -  Kon 

TO   Canton  .... 

On  the  Sacred  Island  of  Pootoo  . 
Drum    Tower,    Nankin    . 


9 
11 
1.3 
14 
17 

18 
20 
21 

22 

24 

25 

27 
28 


.30 
.31 
33 
3,5 
37 
30 
40 

42 
43 
44 


A  Typical  Canal  View  . 
Junks  and  Slipper  Boats,  Canton 
Entrance  to  Small  Tejiple,  Canton 
HoNAM,    OR    "  South    of    the    River,' 

Canton 

Grotesque   Rock  Carvings 

Southern  Side  of  Island  of  Pootoo 

Fat  -  EE,  Opposite   Shameen,  Canton 

Slipper   Roats,  Canton    . 

Preserving  Ginger  in  Syrup.  Canton 

View  on  the  Foreign  Bund,  Canton 

Bridge  to  the  Native  City,  Canton 

An   Ancient  Temple,   Canton 

View  from  Foreign  Quarter,  Canton 

Boat  Landing,  Canton  . 

Earthen   Water  -  .tars.   Canton 

Pottery  Yard,  Canton 

Boulevard  in  the  Shameen,  Canton 

Cantonese   Musicians 

Boat  Scene  on  the  River,  Canton 

Christ   Church    for    Foreigners,   Can 

ton 

A   Country  Farmhouse  . 
Beggars  on  Hills  near  Nankin     . 
P.\godas  on  Grand  Canal 
Country  Scene   near  Shanghai    . 
Colossal    Elephants    at    Ming    Tombs 

Nankin 

Bridge  o\t.r  Canal  at  Soociiow     . 

Great  Bell  at  Nankin  . 

View  on   Island  of   Pootoo 

Bamboo     Scaffoiding     for     a     Foreign 

House  ..... 

Pagoda   at  Kkwkiang 


page 
45 

47 

49 

51 
52 
54 
56 
57 
59 
60 
61 
63 
65 
66 
67 

69 

~i 

73 

75 

76 

78 
80 
81 
8? 

83 
86 
87 
89 

90 
92 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTEATIOXS. 


The   Horse  God,  Temple   near  Siiaxg- 

iiAi 93 

Buddhist  Temple,  near  Nixgpo     .         .  95 

View  in  Ravine  at  Ta  -  Lan  -  Shan    .  96 

Stone  Animals  at  Ming  Tombs     .         .  97 

A  Brick  and  Tile  Yard,  near  Ningpo  100 

View   near   Soochow        ....  101 

Bridge  over  Creek  at  Kiashan     .         .  103 

College  of  Mathesiatics,  Wuchang     .  104 

Examination  of  a  Prisoner  .         .         .  106 
Street  Punish jients         .         .         .         .108 

Street  Punishments         ....  109 
Punishment  of  the  Rack      .         .         .110 

PUNISHJIENT    of    THE    BaJIBOO    .             .             .  113 

Bohea   Hills,   Province  of   Fo  -  Kien   .  114 
Shores     of     the      Sacred      Island     of 

POOTOO 115 

Court    in    Front    of    a    Private    Resi- 
dence   117 

Wheelbarrow  Riding  at  Shanghai       .  118 

Blind    Fortune-teller    ....  120 
Street       Conjuring       Performance, 

Shanghai 121 

Gra\t:s-near  Ningpo         .         .     •    .         .  123 
Methodist    Mission     School    at     Kin- 

kiang 135 

Wellington   Street,   Hong  -  Kong         .  136 
Boom      across      Pearl      Rivt;r,      below 

Canton .138 

Square       Drop  -  net       with       Bamboo 

Frame 130 

Cast  -  Iron   Top   of   Former    Porcelain 

Pagoda,    Nankin         ....  133 

Itinerant    Restaurant    ....  133 

View   near   Nankin          ....  134 

Scene    near   Shanghai    ....  137 

Water  Coolie,  Shanghai         .         .         .  138 

Chinese  Woman  with  Bound  Feet       .  140 

Nankin    University          ....  143 
Barber      and      Masseur      in       Temple 

Grounds 144 

Monument    to    a    Woman    One    Hun- 
dred Years  Old 145 

Bridge  across  Grand  Canal  .         .         .  147 

Ruined    Pagoda    near   Chefoo         .         .  148 

View  on  the  China  Coast     .         .         .  150 


page 

On  the  Yangtse  at  Chinkiano     .        .  152 

Shanghai  and  Wusung  Railway  .         .  153 

Buddhist  Monasii;ry,   Pootoo          .         .  155 

Ordinary   Civilian's   Chair     .         .         .  156 

Ancient  Shrine  in  Canton  .         ,         ,  159 

A  Squatter  inside  Walls  of  Nankin  .  161 

Infantry  and   Bowjien   Drh.i.ixg          .  162 

■t 

Outside  the  Imperial  Arsenal,  Nan- 
kin          164 

Interior  of  Beamless  Temple,  Nan- 
kin          165 

Hong-Kong   Harbour   and   Boats         .  166 

Family  Mausoleuji   near   Suchau          .  169 

The   Archer 170 

A  Tartar  of  the  Chinese  Army  .         .171 
Image      at     Tejiple      Entrance      near 

Shanghai    .         .         .         .         .         .173 

A   Prisoner  Wearing  the  Cangue         .  175 

Sowing   Rice   at  Suchan  -  Fu         .         .  177 

Porcelain  and  Earthenware  Shop  .  178 
Porcelain     and     Earthe^jware     Shop, 

Second    View 180 

An   Itinerant   Barber     ....  181 

The  Great  Wall  of  China    .         .         .  183 

A   Farmer's   Shed 184 

Bridge  over  Canal  at  Sarchow  .  .  186 
Entrance      to      Confucian      Temple, 

Nankin 187 

View  on  Grand  Canal  ....  189 

A   Chinese   Student         ....  192 

Coffin  Tunnel  at  an  Ejiperor's  Tomb  193 
Dragon  Temple  at  Ningpo  .  .  .195 
Wheelbarrow    for    Carrying    Passen- 


gers        

Drawbridge     Connecting    Wharf    ani 

City,  Nankin  .... 
Soldiers   Practising  the   Art  of   Self 

DEFENCE  ..... 

Pavilion  and  Pond,  near  Chinkiang 
Buddhist   Abbot   and   Priests   in    Full 

Canonicals  .... 

Water  -  jars  of  Earthenware,  Shang 

HAI 

Portico   at   Nankin 

The   Provision  Market,  Hoxgkew 

Nankin  and  the  Purple  Mountain 


197 
198 

300 
201 

204 

205 
207 
208 
309 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIOXS. 


Images    of    the    Lohaxs     (Attexdaxt 

Deities)        ..... 
Ruins  of   Emperor   Yuxg   Soh's   Tomb. 

Naxkix 

River  Boat  axd  Rice  Juxk  . 
The  DRtrai  Tower,  Xaxkix  . 
Buddhist  Priests  at  Worship 
Ruijsrs    IX    THE    Old    Palace    Grouxds, 

Naxkix 

Orxamextal     Roofs    ax-^d     Brickwork, 

(SUCHAU)      

Missiox    Hospital,   Xaxkix 
Grotesquely   Shaped    Rocks    . 
One  of  the  Gates  of  Naxkix 
Buddhist  Priests  Outside   Small  Teji- 

ple,  pootoo  .... 

Street  in  Xaxkin  .... 
View  of  the  City  Walls,  Xax'kin 
The  Coal  Hill,  Pekin    . 

MOHAJIMEDAN    MiX'ARET,    CaXTOX      . 

Central  Hall  of  Private   Residexce 

A'lEW   IX    Xaxkix'       .... 

A  View  near  Canton     . 

New   Drawbridge,    Xankin 

A    Pagoda  in    Ruins 

View  of  Xankix"  from  Drum  Tower 

Parade  of  Foreign  axd  Xative  Police 
Hoxg -  Kong        .... 

View  inside  the   Arsenal,  Shax'^ghai 

West   Gate   of   Ching  -  Keang  -  Foo 

Summer  House   near  Shanghai     . 

The  "  Shanghai  Tea  -  gardens  "    . 

The   Tae  -  Ping   Shaou   Kwax 

Naval   College,   Xaxkin 

Entrance  to  Temple  near  Suchau 

Earthen   Water  -  jars,   Shanghai 

Native    Spix'^xixg  -  wheel   axd    Loom 

Tablet    near    Nankin 

Confucian    Temple,    Nankin 

An    Itinerant   Doctor 

Military  Station  near  Ciiokian  . 

Beggars'    Huts    on    Site    of    Porcelain 

Pagoda,    Nankin         ... 
The   Beamless  Temple,   Spirit  Valley, 

Nankin 

BounoiR     AND     Bedchamber     of     Fash- 
ionable   Lady     .... 


211 

213 
215 

21T 
218 

220 

221 
223 
224 
226 

228 
230 
232 
234 
238 
239 
240 
241 
243 
244 
246 

247 
251 
253 
254 
255 
257 
259 
260 
261 
264 
266 
267 
269 
271 

272 

274 

275 


Outer  Building  of  Confucian  Tem- 
ple,   Nankin       .         .         .    *     . 

The    Soociiow   Creek,   Shanghai   . 

AVharf    and    Storehouses,    Shax'ghai  . 

View  on  the  Moat,  Native  Quar- 
tt;r,   Shanghai 

Tea-house    in    Shanghai 

Entrance    to   Carter    Road,   Shanghai 

Boat  -  LOAD   of    Reeds,    near    Shanghai 

Gate    of    Nankin       .  .  .  .  . 

Entrance   to   Garden       .         .         .         . 

Consulting  the   Sticks  of   Fate    . 

Chix'ese    Opium    Smokers 

The    City  of   Nankin      .         .         .         . 

The   Shanghai  Club,  Opened   1864 

The    Astor    House,   Shanghai 

Native  Junks  ^Moored  ix  River  at 
Shanghai  .         .         .         .         . 

Dinner  Party  at  a  Maxdarin's 
House 

Nankin   fro.-m    the    Porcelain    Tower  . 

Earthen  Jar  Shop  and  Blacks.mith 
Shop,    Shanghai         .  .  .  . 

Te.-MPLE     of     BlDDHA,     CaNTON 

Scenery   at  the    Island  of   Pootoo 

A    Ruined   Pagoda     .         .         .         .         . 

Showroom  of  a  Lantern    Merchant    . 

Chinese    Marriage    Procession 

Macao  ....... 

Eurasian    Chii.dren     from     School    at 
Shanghai  .         .         .         .         . 

Road   bv   the   Side  of   Wangpoo    River, 

Shanghai 
Rice   Sellers  at   a    .Military   Station   . 
Nankin    from   City    Wall: 
The   Feast  of  Lanterns 
Country    Farmhouse,    near    Shanghai 
View  on  a  Rhtr  near  Canton     , 
Cap -vender's   Shop,   Canton 
Apartment  in  a  Mandarin's  House 
Scene    at   the    Sacred    Island   of    Poo- 
too       ...... 

A  Chinese    Restaurant,   Shanghai 
Entrance  into  the  City  of   Amoy 
Itinerant   Barbers,   Shaxohai 
View  on  the  Bund  at  Shanghai 


XI 

page 

276 
278 
279 

281 
283 
285 
287 
290 
291 
293 
294 
J0() 
.'97 
298 

300 


301 
304 

306 
307 
309 
310 
312 
313 
315 


316 

31S 
320 
321 
323 
321 
326 
327 
329 


330 
332 
331 
33.5 
33C 


Xll 


LIST    OF    TLLUSTlfAI'IOXS. 


TiiANSPi-AXTiNO    Rice         .         .         .         . 

rnoiMTIATOnV      OllKHINOS      I'OR      DkI'AHTKI) 
UlM.ATIVKS 

Tin:    Tkii:u    Ciari)     .... 

The   Ijipeuial  Caxal 

The    Kin -Shan,   or   Golden    Island 

A   Chinese   Cemetery 

Tiger   Island,   Entrance   of   the    Can 

TON    River   ..... 
Coal   jMines   at  Ying-tih 
Han-Tseuen,     Province     of     Kiang 

nan 

The    Cataract   of   Sunt -tan 
Dyeing  and  Winding  Silk     . 
Hong  -  Kong  from    Kow  -  loon 
TsEiH   Ling  Yen,   or,  the   Se\t:n-star 

Mountains  .         .         .         .         . 

A  Chinese  Barber 

Punishment  of  the    Bastinado 
Feeding    Silkworms    and    Sorting    the 

Cocoons        ...... 

Cotton    Plantations   at   Xing  -  po 
The   Polo  Temple,  Tax  -  hou 
Mandarin    Paying    a    Visit    of    Cere- 

:moxy  ...... 

A   Chinese  Junk,  Canton   River 
Village    on   the    Canal    near   Canton 
The     Spectacle     of     "  The     Sun     and 

Moon  " 

City  of  Ning  -  po.  from  the   Rm:R 
A   Fountain   Court  in   Canton 
Chinese      Pagoda,      between      Canton 

AND   Whampoa 

Buddhist    Women    at   their   Devotions 
Chinese   Ladies  in  Foreign   Dress 
Dice  -  players,   near   Amoy 
Kite  -  flying     ...... 

Cleaning    Cotton 

The    Stocking  -  maker     .         .         .         . 
Policeman    and   Prisoner 
Chinese   Farm  on  the   Amur   Ri\-er 
Loaded  Barrow  .         .         .         .         . 

Entrance    Gate    to    Confucian    Tem- 
ple,   Ching  -  hai         .         .         .         . 
Canal -boats  on  the    River   Pei  -  ho   . 
The   Hea  Hills,  Chaou  -  king -foo 


•Ai;i-: 
3.38 


339 
310 
342 
.3H. 
.346 

347 
349 


351 
353 
354 
355 

356 
358 
360 

363 
363 
365 

366 
368 
369 

371 
373 
374 

376 
379 
380 
383 
383 
384 
385 
387 
390 
393 

393 
395 
397 


page 
MoiTH  OF  THE  Chin -kiang  River  .  399 
Melon  Islands,  and  Irrigating -wheel  400 
J  coolers  in  the  Court  of  a  Man- 
darin's Palace  .....  403 
I,Ai)iES    OF    a    Mandarin's    Family    at 

Cards             403 

The  Bridge  of  Xankin  ....  406 
The       Shih  -  mun,       or       Rock  -  gates, 

Province   of    Kiang  -  nan          .         .  407 

CoREAN    Temple 409 

Loading  Tea  -  junks  at  Tseen-tang.  411 
Arrival  of   Marriage    Presents  at  the 

Bridal    Residence       ....  413 

Amur    River,    Siberia        ....  415 

Manchu    Soldier       .....  417 

Chinese    Regular 430 

Imperial     Travelling      Palace,     Hoo - 

kew-shan  .....  431 
Facade     of     the      Great     Temple     at 

Macao  .         .         .        ".         .         .433 

FoocHUN      Hill,      Province      of      Che 

Keang 435 

Pavilion    of  the    Star   of   Hope,   Tong 

Chow 427 

The  Grotto  of  Camoens,  Macao  .  .  428 
Gardens      of     the      Isiperial     Palace, 

Pekin 430 

Western  Gate,  Pekin  ....  433 
At   the    Palace    of   Yuen    Min   Ylt:n, 

Pekin            433 

Corean    Peasant's   Hut    ....  435 

Scene    on    Honan    Canal,    near    Can- 
ton       .......  437 

Painting  fro:m   Corean   Temple     .         .  438 

Imperial  Palace  at  Tseaou  -  shan  .  440 
Merchant's     House     in     the     Suburbs 

OF  Canton  .....  441 
Chinese     Sacrifice     to     the     Harvest 

:Moon             443 

Queen's   Palace,  Corea    ....  445 

Festival   of   the    Dragon  -  boat      .         .  447 

Corean  Landscape  .....  448 
Entrance      to      Temple      of      Honan, 

Canton 449 

The    Grand    Temple    at    Pootoo,    Chu- 

SAN    Islands 451 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTEATIOXS. 


Xlll 


Ancient  Bronze  Breech  -  loading 
Cannon,    Corea  .... 

Camel  Caravans  on  Plains  of  Mon- 
golia   

Pavilion  and  Gardens  of  a  Man- 
darin ...... 

CoREAN  Landscape,  Country  House 

Chapel  in  the  Great  Tejiple, 
Macao 

CoREAN    Types 459 

House   of   a   Chinese    Merchant   near 

Canton 460 


452 


453 


455 
45G 


457 


Gate  of  Seoul,  Corea      .        .        .        . 
Termination     of     the     Great     Wall, 
Gulf  of  Pe  Cui  Li  . 

CoREAN    Mandarin 

Square  in  Seoul,  Corea 

Painting  fro:m   Corean   Teimple 
Aristocratic       Quarter        in        Seoul, 

,    Corea  

King's  Palace,  Seoul,  Corea 

Corean    Temple         .         .         .         .         . 

Gate  of  Corean   Walled  Town     . 


PAGE 

462 


464 
466 
467 
460 

471 
472 
474 
476 


A    CIIINKSK     FAMILY  MOTIIKU,    SON,    AM)     DA  !(,  II  I  KK. 


CHINA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


GLIMPSES    OF    THE    ANCIENT    SHORE. 

TURNING  reluctantly  from  the  familiar  scenes  of  Dai  Nippon,  which 
we  have  grown  to  love,  we  bid  au  revoir  (for  every  one  who  leaves 
Japan  fondly  believes  that  he  will  come  l)ack  again)  to  the  ancient 
cities  and  modern  centres  of  commerce,  the  sunny  skies  and  picturesque 
landscapes,  the  worshipful  tombs  and  sacred  temples  of  the  Land  of  the 


Sunrise,  and  join  the  throng  of  restless  sightseers  on  one  of  the  great 
ocean  steamers  bound  for  China,  the  old  Cathay  of  Marco  Polo,  poetically 
styled  *'  The  Flowery  Kingdom  of  the  Far  East."  Fairer  sky  never 
bended  over  the  Oriental  sea  than  that  which  smiles  on  us  as  the  huge 
moving  palace  of  the  deep  sweeps  down  the  harbour  of  Nagasaki  and 
onward  into  the  west.  Long  after  the  last  trace  of  the  templed  hills  has 
faded  from  sight,  we  continue  to  look  backward,  the  mind's  eye  still 
gazing  oil  the  spirited  picture,  and  the  heart  yet  warm  for  the  friends 
it  holds. 

We  have  little  time  to  wonder  whether  we  shall  lose  or  gain  by  this 
exchange  of  scenes,  for  within  twenty-four  hours  the  silver  of  the 
horizon  on  the  west  deepens  into  a  brown,  and  we  are  told  that  land 
has  been  sighted,  the  mysterious  shore  of  Old  Asia,  the  Mother  of 
Continents.  Japan,  the  young  and  beautiful,  is  now  quickly  replaced, 
by  the  Old  Man  of  the  Orient.  Our  gaze  becomes  fixed  on  the 
water-line,  until  out  of  the  Yellow  Sea  rise,  like  flitting  shadows  of  the 
deep,  the  forests  that  line  the  coast  at  this  point.  Scarcely  have  these 
trees  materialised  into  tangible  objects,  when  villages  with  high  walls 
and  odd-looking  buildings  come  into  view.  As  we  continue  to  draw 
nearer,  the  scene  is  enlivened  with  human  figures  clothed  in  garments 
of  grotesque  patterns,  moving  along  the  shore,  or  by  brown-skinned  ani- 
mals of  awkward  proportions  wallowing  in  the  mud  in  a  furious  attempt 
to  get  rid  of  small,  but  troublesome,  enemies.  The  water  is  now  dotted 
with  strange  craft,  carrying  an  amazing  amount  of  canvas,  with  big 
eyes  painted  at  the  bows,  and  lank,  half-naked  crews  having  long  queues 
hanging  down  their  backs,  and  long  bamboo  poles  in"  their  hands.  The 
eyes  are  painted  in  the  sails,  we  are  told,  under  the  belief  that  whatever 
"  has  no  eyes,  no  see,"  a  truth  we  cannot  dispute.  The  peculiar  append- 
age of  the  head  proves  to  be  not  a  relic  of  barbarism,  as  we  at  first  sur- 
mised, but  the  tribute  of  a  love  romance.  So  hearts  are  not  dead  here, 
and  our  hopes  brighten. 

"  Give  me  the  geography  of  a  country,"  says  Victor  Cousin,  "  and  I 
will  tell  you  its  future."  Now  the  superficial  knowledge  we  have  gained 
from  our  geographies  and  hand-books  of  travel  comes  vividly  into  our 
mind,  and  we  think  of  a  countr}^  of  plains,  valleys,  mountains,  deserts, 
and  table-lands  covering  the  enormous  area  of  over  four  million  square 


CHINA. 


3 


miles,  and  extending  from  18  degrees  to  55  degrees  north  latitude,  and 
from  75  degrees  to  135  degrees  east  longtitude,  an  imperfect  outline  of 
the  vast  territory  we  are  al30ut  to  visit.  People  this  with  nearly  four 
hundred  million  human  beings,  swarming  in  the  coast  towns  like  bees 
around  their  crowded  hives,  but  more  scattered  in  the  inland  districts, 
and  we  have  a  faint  conception  of  the  life  of  this  strange  domain.  Im- 
agine  the   glory   and   picturesque  grandeur  of  the  upward   march   of   an 


SAMl-ANS     AND    J  IN  UI  KIMI  At 


imperial  power  which  dazzled  the  world,  long  before  Rome  was  founded, 
with  such  proud  defiance  that  even  Alexandi-r  dared  not  try  to  Innnble 
it  —  a  government  that  overarches  history  and  the  feet  of  whose  pillars 
are  lost  in  tradition.  Then  picture  tlie  slow  descent  of  the  sun  from  its 
midday  throne  into  the  bosom  of  the  infinite  West,  its  waning  light 
emblematical  of  the  fading  prestige  of  the  imperial  "  Sons  of  Heaven," 
whose  sands  of  government  are  running  low  and  lower,  and  the  vision 
is  imperfectly  completed.  This  vast  dominion  has  been  both  smaller 
and  larger  than  it  is  to-day.     It  was  at  its  greatest  before  Russia  sliced 


off  the  region  lying  between  its  present  boundary  on  the  north  and  the 
Yablonoi  Mountains,  and  beyond  the  Amur  River.  That  was  in  1858, 
and  only  two  years  later  the  White  Emjiire  got  a  richer  plot  in  the 
country  bordering  on  the  Sea  of  Japan,  and  running  down  on  the  Asiatic 
coast  to  Vladivostok,  that  important  maritime  port  for  the  Russians. 
Japan  won  Formosa  as  her  prize  in  the  war  of  1894,  while  Corea  no 
longer  owes  the  semblance  of  an  allegiance  to  the  Celestial  Empire. 
Of  the  extensive  country  we  have  hastily  sketched,  more  than  one-half 


XANKIN    DONKEY. 


lies  outside  of  what  is  properly  termed  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  much 
of  it  is,  in  reality,  beyond  convenient  reach  of  the  more  populous  prov- 
inces. This  vast  district,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  districts,  encloses 
the  network  of  mountains  and  tracts  of  table-lands  of  ancient  Tibet  and 
Kokonor,  the  vast  sand  plains  and  highlands  of  Eastern  Turkestan  and 
Mongolia.  The  first  two  have  a  natural  entrance  through  India,  while 
the  extensive  regions  last  named  are  best  approached  from  Siberia. 
Taken  together,  this  broad  area  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  back- 
bone of  the  Chinese  Empire,  the  mountains  of  Yunling  and  Siolki ;  on 
the  west  and  southwest  by  the  snow-crowned   Himalayas ;  on  the  west 


CHINA.  5 

and  north  by  the  wind-swept  steppes  of  Siberia.  All  of  this  vast  region, 
in  the  solitude  of  which  Hawaii,  the  Philippines,  and  Japan  might  be 
placed  so  that  it  would  require  months  of  travel  to  reach  them,  is  thinly 
populated  by  impoverished  races  that  look  upon  each  other  as  barbarians 
and  who  in  turn  are  considered  little  better  than  wild  beasts  by  those 
in  the  eastern  and  more  populous  section  comprising  the  heart  of  the 
great  Middle  Kingdom. 

Having,  for  the  present  at  least,  laid  aside  a  consideration  of  this  larger 


SULDIKKS    AT    XAXKIN. 


half  of  China,  we  still  find  ourselves  approaching  a  country  which  few. 
if  any,  understand,  and  which  no  two  describe  alike.  We  are  reminded 
of  the  story  of  the  chameleon,  which  was  black  to  one,  Ijlue  to  a  second, 
green  to  the  third,  and  when  produced,  to  prove  the  argument  of  the  first, 
appeared  in  white.  If  foreign  writers  fail  to  agree,  it  is  no  more  than 
the  Chinese  do  themselves.  Their  maps  vary,  and  often  they  show  the 
most  vague  conceptions  of  portions  of  their  own  countr}'  scarcely  remote 
from  the  centres  of  population. 

China  proper  consists  of  eighteen  states  or  provinces,  named  and  brieli}' 
described  as  follows: 


Chili,  on  the  northeast,  containing  in  round  numbers  fifty-seven  thou- 
sand square  miles,  and  a  population  of  over  thirty-six  million  people,  or 
about  630  to  the  square  mile.  This  province  comprises  the  northerly 
section  of  the  wide  delta  of  Yellow  River  bordering  on  the  Gulf  of 
Pechili.  It  holds  within  its  area  the  capital  of  the  empire  and  the 
important  seaport  of  Tien-tsin. 

West  of  Chili  is  the  province  of  Shansi,  the  early  scene  of  Chinese 
settlement,  with  an  area  of  sixty-six  thousand  square  miles,  inhabited 
by  nearly  seventeen  million  j)eople.  This  territory  comprises  in  part  a 
vast  coal-field,  some  six  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  and  thirty  thousand 
square  miles  in  area.  These  coal-beds  have  not  been  mined  to  any  great 
extent,  and  the  inhabitants,  depending  on  agriculture  in  a  country  ill- 
fitted  for  it,  are  for  the  most  part  poor. 

Southeast  of  Chili  lies  the  great  agricultural  district  of  Shantung, 
with  an  area  of  fifty-three  thousand  square  miles,  and  a  population  of 
twenty-seven  million.  This  province  borders  on  the  Yellow  Sea,  and  is 
noted  for  its  mineral  wealth,  which  will  be  spoken  of  more  fully  later. 
It  pays  the  greatest  land  tax  of  any  province,  reaching  the  enormous 
sum  of  2,800,000  taels  annually,  equal  to  over  $4,000,000. 

Honan,  on  the  south  of  Chili,  comprises  a  part  of  the  rich  delta  of 
the  Yellov/  River,  and  has  an  area  of  66,500  square  miles,  and  a  pop- 
ulation of  thirty  million.  Kaifung,  situated  near  the  great  river,  enjoys 
the  renown  of  having  been  the  metropolis  of  the  empire  from  the  close 
of  the  eighth  to  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century. 

Bordering  Shantung  on  the  south,  and  the  Yellow  Sea  on  the  west,  lies 
the  land  of  lakes,  Kiangsu,  with  an  area  of  a  little  less  than  forty  thou- 
sand square  miles,  and  with  a  population  of  forty  million  people,  or  one 
thousand  to  a  square  mile.  Nankin,  the  ancient  metropolis  of  China 
(317  to  582,  and  again  during  the  Ming  dynasty  in  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury), is  its  capital.  Besides  this  city,  it  boasts  of  Shanghai  and  Suchau. 
This  'province  the  Chinese  consider  typical  of  an  earthly  paradise.  There 
is  an  old  saying  which  runs :  "  Happiness  on  earth  is  realised  by  being 
born  in  Suchau,  by  living  in  Canton,  and  by  dying  in  Hangchow." 

On  the  west  of  Kiangsu,  the  province  of  Anhwei  comprises  a  goodly 
portion  of  the  great  delta,  with  an  area  of  fifty-five  thousand  square  miles, 
and  a  population  of  thirty-six  million.     It  is  a  fertile  province. 


CHINA. 


Southeast  lies  the  smallest  province  in  the  empire,  which  has,  however, 
an  area  of  thirty-five  million  square  miles  and  a  })()piilation  of  over  eight 
million.  Hangchow,  already  mentioned  as  being  regarded  with  particular 
favour,  is  the  capital ;  it  was  described  by  ^larco  Polo  as  "  the  noblest 
town  in  the  world."  Beyond  doubt,  if  the  smallest  in  area,  this  province 
has  been  the  most 
highly  favoured  by 
nature  of  any. 

Southward,  fring- 
ing; the  seacoast 
with  its  innumer- 
able islands  and 
points  of  land  for 
over  four  hundred 
miles  as  the  shore 
runs,  is  Fukien,  the 
great  tea  -  garden, 
famous  for  what  it 
has  been  in  the 
past  and  for  what 
it  is  in  the  present. 
It  has  an  area  of 
forty-five  thousand 
square  miles,  a 
population  of 
twenty-two  million, 
and  the  most  inter- 
esting seaport  in 
the  empire,  Fuchau, 
for  its  capital. 

Kiangsi  lies  on  the  west  of  Fukien,  with  an  area  of  sixty-eight  thousand 
square  miles,  and  inhabited  by  twenty-six  million  people.  Consideraljle 
manufacturing  is  done  in  this  province. 

On  the  north  is  Hupei,  covering  sixty-eight  thousand  square  miles  of 
territory,  and  supporting  a  population  of  twenty-eight  million.  This 
province  holds  the  most  fertile  portion  of  China,  and   the  great  inland 


A    CHINKSK     FAMILY. 


commercial  centre  of  Hankow,  lour  hundred  miles  frora  Canton,  is  its 
capital. 

Hunan,  formerly  a  part  of  the  last  province,  lies  to  the  south.  It 
is  greater  in  area  than  the  former,  but  cannot  boast  of  as  many  inhabit- 
ants, having  but  twenty  million,  though  an  area  of  eighty-two  thousand 
square  miles.  The  population  of  this  province  suffered  severely  in  loss 
of  numbers  by  the  noted  Taiping  rebellion,  in  which  Chinese  Gordon 
won  his  famous  nickname. 

Southeast   of   Hunan    lies    Kwangtung,  with   an   extent   of   territory 


BUDDHIST    NUN    AND    ATTENDANT. 


amounting  nearly  to  ninety  thousand  square  miles.  Its  capital  is  Canton ; 
population,  twenty  million. 

West  of  this  province  lies  Kwangsi,  with  an  area  of  eighty  thousand 
square  miles,  and  a  population  of  eight  million.  The  inland  trading  marts 
of  Naning  and  Wuchau-fu  are  in  this  province. 

On  the  northwest  of  Kwangtung  is  the  province  of  Kweichau,  with 
sixty-four  thousand  square  miles,  but  only  five  million  inhabitants.  It 
is  rich  in  mineral  resources,  but  less  favoured  for  agriculture,  upon  which 
the  people  depend  for  their  sustenance. 

On  the  west  of  Kweichau,  and  forming  the  southwest  corner  of  the 
empire,  is  its  richest  province  as  regards  mineral  products.  Yunnan,  wnth 


• 


CHINA.  9 

a  population  of  six  million,  and  an  area  of  122.000  square  miles.  The 
population  of  the  section  was  greatly  reduced  during  the  great  Mo- 
hammedan uprising  and  the  terrible  visitation  of  the  plague  which 
followed  in  its  pathway. 

Szechuen,  the  richest  of  the  provinces,  lies  to  the  north  of  Yunnan, 
and  is  estimated  to  contain  180,000  square  miles,  with  a  population  of 
sixty  million  people.     The  western  part  of  this  province,  which  borders 


SEA    VIEW    AT    I'OUTOO. 


on    Tibet,  is  sparsely  peopled,  while  the   eastern  half  is  more   densely 
populated,  and  is  prosperous. 

Bordering  on  the  Great  Wall  of  the  northern  frontier,  and  extending 
southward  into  the  heart  of  the  empire,  is  the  province  of  Shensi,  with 
an  area  in  round  numbers  of  eighty  thousand  square  miles,  and  a  pop- 
ulation of  perhaps  ten  million.  This  holds  the  classic  ground  of  ancient 
China,  the  basin  of  Wei.  Through  this  country  runs  the  ancient  path 
into  the  empire  followed  by  the  early  pioneers  of  the  Chinese,  and  at  its 
present    capital,    Sian-fu,   flourished    in    the    early    epochs    the   court   of 


Chang-ngan,  celebrated  for  its  arts  and  sciences.  Sian-fu  is  noted  for 
having  been  the  capital  of  the  empire  longer  than  any  other  city,  and 
Doctor  Williams,  in  speaking  of  her  great  line  of  princes  of  the  Tang 
dynasty  who  ruled  here,  says:  "During  the  287  years  they  held  the 
throne,  China  was  probably  the  most  civilised  country  on  earth,  and  the 
darkest  days  of  the  West  formed  the  brightest  era  of  the  East." 

Last  and  largest  of  the  eighteen  provinces,  forming  the  broad  high- 
way into  the  Chinese  Empire  from  the  Tibetan  highlands  of  Central 
Asia,  lies,  shaped  like  a  huge  hour-glass,  the  stupendous  state  of  Kansu. 
Its  area  is  260,000  square  miles,  nearly  as  large  as  our  own  Texas, 
and  larger  than  fifteen  of  our  States,  beginning  with  Maine  and  ending 
with  West  Virginia.     It  has  a  population  of  twenty  million. 

Of  the  immense  number  of  islands  lying  off  its  coast,  two  are  deserving 
of  special  mention.  These  are  Hainan  and  Chusan.  The  first  is  150 
miles  in  lens-th  and  one  hundred  in  width.  The  surface  of  the  island 
is  generally  mountainous,  but  is  well  wooded.  The  inhabitants,  who 
resemble  the  mountaineers  of  interior  China,  are  believed  by  some  to 
belong  to  the  descendants  of  the  aborigines  of  the  coast  of  Asia.  They 
have  Malayan  characteristics,  and,  like  the  people  of  Formosa,  are  not 
inclined  to  accept  Chinese  government  kindly.  Chusan  is  the  more 
noteworthy  of  the  two,  though  the  smaller,  being  scarcely  twenty  miles 
in  length  and  with  a  width  barely  reaching  six  miles  at  its  greatest 
breadth.  It  has  a  population  of  two  hundred  thousand,  and  became  sub- 
ject to  Chinese  rule  in  the  seventh  century.  The  island  was  practically 
in  the  possession  of  the  British  from  1840  to  1846,  and  again,  after 
the  stormy  disturbances  of  that  period,  it  was  in  their  hands  in 
1860. 

With  its  varied  landscape  and  vast  extent  of  territory,  China,  as  is 
to  be  expected,  has  a  climate  running  from  the  cold  of  the  Frigid 
Zone  to  the  heat  of  the  Tropics,  with  all  the  interchanging  tempera- 
tures imaginable.  The  wintry  period,  known  to  them  as  the  "  Great 
Cold,"  is  dated  to  last  from  the  22d  of  January  to  the  6th  of  February, 
when  the  "Beginning  of  Spring"  is  supposed  to  take  place.  Summer 
begins  on  the  5th  of  May. 

The  empire  is  favoured  with  several  great  river  systems,  the  largest 
of  which  is  the  Yangtse  Kiang,  known  to  the  Chinese  as  Ta  Kiang,  or 


CHINA. 


11 


**  Great  Eiver."  It  is  navigable  for  river  steamers  for  six  hundred  miles, 
and  for  smaller  craft  nine  hundred  miles  farther.  This  river  is  the 
*'  Quain  "  mentioned  by  Marco  Polo,  as  the  two  provinces  mentioned  as 
bearing  the  name  of  Kwang,  with  its  variations,  constituted  a  part  of 
the  Kingdom  of  Manzi,  so  fully  described  by  him.  In  liis  day,  Manzi 
was  a  name  applied  to  Southern  China,  w^hile  the  rest  was  known  as 
Cathay.     The  Yangtse  River  drains  the  central  regions  from  the  extreme 


IMI'KKIAL    MAIUTIMK    CTSTOMS    HorSK 


west  to  the  sea,  while  the  Hoang-ho,  with  headwaters  in  the  Mountains 
of  Kokonor,  whicli  b}'  flowing  northward  into  ^longolia  forms  a  huge 
horseshoe  on  the  face  of  the  country,  delivei's  its  silt  and  flood  into  the 
Yellow  Sea.  The  first  is  aptly  termed  tlie  ''River  of  Tea,"  while  the 
latter  is  quite  as  appropriately,  if  more  sadly,  named  the  "River  of 
Sorrow."  Besides  these  great  rivers,  of  which  we  shall  presently  speak 
further,  China  has  other  systems  of  waterways  worth}-  of  mention, 
among  which  are  the  Si  Kiang,  or  West  River,  of  the  south,  and  the 


Pei-Ho,  or  North  River,  upon  whose  banks  stcand  the  noted  cities  of 
Pekin  and  Tien-tsin. 

The  names  of  the  rivers  afford  an  example  of  the  lack  of  uniformity 
and  completeness  in  the  nomenclature  of  China.  From  the  time  it 
springs  from  its  fountain  in  the  hills  until  its  career  ends  in  the  ocean 
a  stream  may  be  known  by  a  dozen  or  more  names.  The  mountain  range 
has  now  first  one  designation  and  then  another.  The  names  of  the  towns 
and  villages  are  more  changeable  and  confusing,  seldom  being  permanent. 
The  empire  itself  has  no  national  denomination,  and  its  people  no  settled 
patronymic  to  distinguish  them  as  a  race. 

Fortunate  in  the  distribution  of  her  rivers,  China  is  equally  favoured 
in  the  geographical  situation  and  surroundings  of  her  commercial  centres. 
There  are  four  of  these  that  demand  our  immediate  attention,  the  most 
southerly  being  Canton,  the  Manchester  of  China,  finely  and  yet  singu- 
larly located  at  the  junction  of  three  rivers,  the  Si  (West),  Pei  (North), 
and  Pearl.  Second  is  Shanghai,  the  New  York  of  China,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Yangtse  River,  while  over  seven  hundred  miles  up  the  same  river 
is  the  big  midland  market,  the  Chicago  of  the  empire,  Hankow,  by  some 
authorities  spelled  Hankau.  In  the  north,  built  up  by  the  trade  in 
that  vicinity,  is  Tien-tsin,  reached  by  na^dgation,  while  eighty  miles 
up  the  river  is  the  capital  of  the  empire.  It  will  be  seen  that  all  of 
these  business  centres  are  situated  upon  waterways,  and  have  drawn 
the  trade  and  communication  from  other,  and  often  distant,  parts. 
Hankow's  position  is  about  the  same  distance  north  of  Canton  that 
it  is  south  of  Tien-tsin  and  west  of  Shanghai.  To  reach  the  inland 
districts  means  hundreds  of  miles  of  weary  plodding  along  miserable 
roads  and  mere  footpaths,  or  along  winding  streams  filled  with 
rapids. 

In  the  midst  of  our  reflections  and  earnest  watchfulness,  we  realise 
that  we  are  entering  the  broad  mouth  of  a  mighty  river,  the  Yangtse, 
which  has  brought  its  offerings  over  three  thousand  miles,  from  the  high- 
lands of  Tibet,  the  "Roof  of  the  World."  This  mighty  stream  drains 
an  extent  of  territory  scarcely  inferior  to  that  of  any  of  the  great  rivers 
of  the  globe.  Finally,  we  come  to  a  bar  stretching  nearly  across  the 
river,  which  is  known  to  the  Chinese  as  the  "Heavenly  Barrier."  Here 
we  stop,  while  launches  come  down  to  meet  us,  the  news  of  our  arrival 


■?S»s^ftiteJ,'iij«^^i-' 


CHINA. 


13 


having  sped  on  the  "  winged  wires  "  to  this  foreign  empress  sitting  on 
the  ancient  shore.  It  is  a  more  imposing  city  than  we  had  supposed, 
and  our  ideas  of  the  eastern  coast  of  Asia  immediately  assume  different 
shape.  Later,  we  hope  to  see  the  city  at  closer  range,  but  we  see  enough 
now  to  find  that  it  is  more  attractive  than  we  had  expected,  that  massive 
stone  buildings  front  the  bund,  and  that  there  are  fine  public  gardens. 
We   realise,  too,  that  we  are   in   front  of  a  great  tea-growing  country. 


ISLAND    IN    THE    RIVEK    YANGTSE. 


If  Pekin  is  the  seat  of  government,  Shanghai  is  the  commercial  capital 
of  China. 

We  take  passage  now  on  one  of  the  steamers  that  ply  Ijetwoen  Sliang- 
hai  and  the  lower  ports,  touching  next  at  the  great  tea  mart  of  Ilang- 
chow  (Hankow),  which  is  noted  as  being  the  starting-point  of  tlie  *^'' Grand 
Canal"  running  northward  through  a  rich  countr}'  to  Tien-tsin.  This 
town  is  set  in  a  perfect  garden  of  i\\e  important  herb.  Little  of  this 
tea.  comes  to  America,  England  and  Russia  being  the  chi(>f  buyers.  We 
are  told  that  a  pleasant  trip  into  the  country  can  be  made  by  steamer 
on  the  Tsien-sang  River.  Vivid  accounts  are  given  us,  as  we  watch  the 
strange  shore  off  Chin-kiang,  of  adventures  with  wild  boars  that  roam 


the  hills.     They  serve  to  recall   i\\e  stirring  tiger-hunts  of  Marco  Polo, 

and  produce  a  not  unhke  impression  on  the  hearer. 

The  River  Min  has  its  source  in  the  famous  hills  of  Behoea,  and  winds 

down  to  the  sea  through  the  rich  tea  districts  of  Fukien,  becoming  the 

natural  canal  for 
the  transportation 
of  tins  plant.  It  is 
navigable  for  large 
vessels  for  more 
than  a  hundred 
miles.  Like  many 
of  the  rivers  of 
China,  it  finally 
empties  into  the 
ocean  through  more 
than  one  outlet. 
The  harbour  is 
thirty  miles  inland 
from  the  mouth  of 
this  stream,  another 
peculiarity  of  the 
Chinese  coast.  This 
place  is  known  as 
"  Pagoda  Anchor- 
age," on  account 
of  an  old  pagoda 
standing  on  a  small 
island  in  plain 
siffht.  As  we  shall 
often  meet  with  the 
word  "  pagoda,"  it 
may  not  be  out  of 

place    to    say   here  that   it   has  become  accepted  by  the   Chinese,  to   a 

considerable  extent,  in  place  of  their  own  term  of  Ta,  applied  to  that 
kind  of  a  high  tower  erected  by  them  in  or  near  their  towns,  and 
supposed  to  bring  good  luck.     The  origin  of  the  word  is  in  doubt,  but 


PAGODA    IN    SOUTHERN    CHINA. 


CHIIMA.  15 

no  one  seems  to  trace  it  back  to  the  Chinese.  Colonel  Yule  says  it 
was  used  by  the  old  Portuguese  writers  in  the  sense  of  an  idol,  as  well 
as  a  temple  for  idols.  He  is  inclined  to  think  it  is  of  Indian  origin. 
Mandarin,  Joss,  and  Chop  are  not  properly  Chinese  words,  though  we 
shall  meet  them  frequently  wherever  we  go.  The  first  is  a  Portuguese 
corruption  of  Sansk,  rendered  into  Manti^i,  meaning  a  minister  of  state. 

This  peculiar  foreign  structure  looming  in  the  distance  lends  an  un- 
common fascination  to  a  scene,  regarding  which  Mr.  John  Thomson  says : 
"  But  for  this  purely  Chinese  edifice,  one  might  readily  suppose  himself 
transported  suddenly  to  a  scene  on  the  River  Clyde.  There  stand  the 
houses  of  a  foreign  settlement,  and  yonder  are  a  dock,  tall  chimneys, 
and  rows  of  workshops,  whence  the  clangour  of  steam-hammers  and  the 
hum  of  engines  may  be  heard.  Here,  in  fact,  is  the  Fuchau  Arsenal, 
on  a  piece  of  level  ground  redeemed  from  a  swamp,  and  looking  in  the 
distance  like  an  English  manufacturing  village."  We  are  struck  by  the 
great  width  of  the  harbour  here,  considering  that  it  is  so  far  inland. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE    MOUNTAIN    MONASTERY. 

WE  are  soon  interested  in  the  sight  of  European  men-of-war,  and 
we  are  pointed  out  the  Chinese  navy  yard  and  arsenal  of  Fu- 
chau  (Foochow),  with  its  live  interest  of  river  life  and  green- 
carpeted  hillsides  sloping  down  to  the  sea.  This  town  stands  about  seven 
miles  from  the  harbour,  and  possesses,  perhaps,  greater  attractions  for 
the  foreign  visitor  than  any  other  port. 

Naturally,  the  first  place  to  draw  the  stranger  is  the  foreign  settle- 
ment, which  is  separated  from  the  native  section,  as  in  all  towns  in  this 
country.  This  quarter  is  reached  over  a  bridge  famous  for  its  ancient 
construction,  and  is  known  as  the  "  bridge  of  ten  thousand  ages."  It 
is  a  plain  stone  structure,  built  with  no  attempt  at  display,  but  with 
durability  uppermost  in  the  minds  of  its  builders.  The  fact  that  it  has 
stood  the  test  of  over  nine  hundred  years,  without  any  particular  signs 
of  the  inroads  of  sun  and  storm,  is  ample  proof  of  the  success  of  its  orig- 
inators, while  the  massive  blocks  of  granite,  some  of  them  forty  feet  in 
length,  show  the  skill  of  the  ancient  engineers  in  raising  them  from 
the  water  to  their  high  stone  piers.  The  bridge  is  fully  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  length. 

The  residences  of  these  newcomers  are  on  the  hillside  and  summit  which 
we  have  mentioned,  and  which  have  a  melancholy  interest  when  we  are 
told  that  the  entire  sunny  terraces  comprise  the  tomb  where  sleep  the 
many  victims  of  one  of  the  great  plagues  that  have  visited  China.  As 
may  be  understood,  bitter  opposition  arose  at  the  outset  in  regard  to 
allowing  the  hated  "  barbarians  "  to  locate  on  this  sacred  place,  but  money, 
that  potent  factor,  eventually  decided  the  dispute,  and  healed  the  wounds 
created  by  this  desecration  of  the  hallowed  spot.  The  spirits  of  the  dead, 
in  turn,  were  quieted  by  liberal  offerings  at  their  shrines,  so  that  to-day 
the  foreign  resident  abides  peacefully  above  the  ashes  of  the  Celestial, 
whose  bones  help  feed  the  luxuriant  sward  and  flowers  of  well-kept  ter- 


CHINA. 


17 


races.  The  "almighty  dollar,"  as  we  \T.ilgarly  designate  it,  is  here 
known  as  the  "  Flowered  Border,"  but  this  incident  shows  that  it  loses 
none  of  its  significance'  as  a  factor  in  shaping  the  affairs  of  men  on 
accomit  of  its  poetical  name.  In  no  land  is  so  higli  an  estimate  placed 
upon  it  as  in  China,  and  if  there  is  a  spot  on  earth  where  it  is  alin'ujldij, 
it  is  in  the  Chinese  Empire.  By  the  way,  when  one  comes  to  think  of  it, 
there  is  something  singular,  if  not  uncanny,  in  thus  peopling  with  a  dual 


THE    BUND    AT    HANKOW. 


population  the  burial  hills  of  Fucliau.  These  dwellings  arc  reached  by 
long  and  arduous  ascents,  up  which  the  inhabitants  are  borne  on  the 
shoulders  of  the  natives.  Seen  after  nightfall  through  the  thick  foliage, 
the  lanterns  of  the  chair-bearers  gleam  like  so  many  iirdlics  asecuding 
into  mid-air,  as  the  men  move  in  a  zigzag  course  up  the  narrow  avemies. 
Barren,  indeed,  is  that  place  which  has  nothing  to  afford  tlie  stranger 
at  least  a  passing  interest,  and  Fuchau  is  rich  in  its  offerings.  Were  there 
no  other  attraction,  the  monastery  of  Yuan-fu,  built  on  the  side  of  a  high 
precipice  overlooking  the  River  Min,  Avould  redeem  its  re]3utation.     Stand- 


iiig  out  in  bold  relief  on  the  rocky  front  of  the  bluff,  two  hundred  feet  in 
mid-air,  its  broad,  curved  eaves  and  fantastic  roofs  make  it  look  like  a 
huge  butterfly,  impaled,  at  the  moment  of  winging  its  flight,  upon  the 
skeleton-work  of  wooden  posts  and  cross-timbers.  This  lofty  retreat,  one 
of  the  strangest  locations  for  a  house  of  worship  to  be  found  in  the 
world,  is  reached  by  a  long  flight  of  stone  steps,  which  end  amid  an 
abundant   growth  of   ferns  and  wild  flowers  overhung   by  the  delicate 


PROCESSION    OF    BUDDHIST    PRIESTS    ENTERING    TEMPLE. 


green  of  the  forest  overhead.  The  path  leads  to  a  cave  in  the  side  of 
the  hill.  At  the  foot  of  the  rocks,  its  grim  figure  lighted  by  the  blaze 
from  burning  incense,  is  an  idol,  while  above  this  the  path  is  cut  in 
the  surface  of  the  rock.  The  mountain  is  known  as  the  Wu-hu,  or 
"  five  tiger,"  range. 

We  found  two  monks  in  possession  of  the  frail  house  built  in  that 
precarious  position,  which  made  us  fear  that  the  whole  affair,  with  all 
its  occupants,  would  topple  into  the  depths  below.     A  third  priest  made 


CHINA.  19 

up  the  complement  belonging  to  the  place,  but  he  was  away  at  the  time. 
One  of  the  pious  fathers  present  was  fat  and  jolly,  while  his  companion 
made  the  pair  complete  by  being  thin  and  austere.  It  would  be  difficult 
to  find  two  of  such  opposite  temperaments  as  well  as  physical  appearance. 
One  was  continually  mumbling  his  prayers,  and  the  other  telling  stories 
that  would  tax  the  credulity  of  the  least  skeptical.  The  most  onerous 
service  they  w^ere  expected  to  perform  was  to  ascend  at  the  hour  of  the 
setting  sun  to  the  temple  just  above  them,  and  repeat  their  daily  sup- 
plication to  the  overruling  deity.  As  this  prayer  was  simply  a  repetition 
of  what  they  had  said  many  times,  the  task  was  not  particularly  difficult. 
We  were  invited  to  accompany  them,  and  among  the  images  of  the  place 
we  noticed  one  so  grotesque  in  its  facial  expression  that  we  displayed 
our  Yankee  curiosity  by  inquiring  what  it  represented.  We  were  in- 
formed that  it  was  the  god  of  longevity,  "  the  laughing  Buddha."  In 
front  of  this  far  from  pleasing  image  was  the  oddest  timepiece  we  ever 
saw.  It  consisted  of  a  bronze  box  half  filled  with  clay,  into  which  were 
stuck  side  by  side  several  thin  strips  of  wood,  one  of  the  number  burn- 
ing at  the  upper  end.  As  each  of  these  sticks  is  cut  to  burn  just  twelve 
hours,  by  lighting  a  new  one  while  the  old  one  is  expiring  the  time  can 
be  measured  quite  accurately,  and  can  be  told  at  any  hour  to  within  a 
few  minutes.  We  are  gravely  informed  that  this  ember  of  fire,  like 
the  sacred  torch  of  the  temple  of  ancient  faith  in  Japan  and  the  vestal 
fires  of  Rome,  has  been  alive  from  time  immemorial. 

The  abode  of  these  monks  is  of  the  most  simple  construction  and  fur- 
nishings, the  walls  being  merely  thin  boards  covered  with  a  coat  of  lime, 
the  furniture  nothing  more  than  a  chair  apiece,  a  table,  and  a  bed,  all 
made  of  pine.  Upon  the  bed  was  a  scanty  covering  for  the  sleepers,  and 
wooden  rests  for  their  heads  in  lieu  of  pillows.  I  should  judge  the  cold 
might  be  severe  there  in  the  winter,  but  as  it  was  summer-time  when  our 
party  stopped  with  them,  we  suffered  but  little  from  the  temperature.  The 
evening's  duties  over,  and  the  yellow  canonicals  removed,  the  pipes  were 
lighted,  and  the  fat  priest,  having  made  himself  as  comfortable  as  possible, 
pointed  out  in  the  distance  an  eerie  crag  overhanging  the  river.  As  we 
fixed  our  gaze  upon  the  spot,  slowly  fading  from  view  in  the  gathering 
twilight,  he  proved  himself  not  entirely  lost  to  tlie  world  by  narrating  the 
following    romantic   story,   which    lends    its   mite    to    the   wide   fame   of 


"Lover's  Leap."  We  regret  our  inability  to  retain  in  our  transcription  of 
the  simple  tale  the  peculiar  charm  lent  to  it  by  the  narrator ;  that  is  quite 
beyond  our  power. 

"  During  the  reign  of  one  of  the  early  dynasties,  when  war  was  carry- 
ing terror  to  the  hearts  of  the  native  people,  there  lived  in  this  vicinity 
a  peasant  and  his  family,  consisting  of  a  wife,  a  son,  and  a  daughter. 
The  last  was   very  beautiful,  so  beautiful,  in   fact,  that   she    had   many 


CURIOUSLY    SHAPED    ROCKS    (POOTOO). 

suitors,  though  she  met  them  all  with  an  indifference  w^hich  w^as  exceed- 
ingly discouraging  to  her  parents.  But  one  day  there  came  to  her 
father's  dwelling  a  man  who  was  to  change  all  this.  He  was  none  other 
than  the  prince,  of  whom  she  had  heard  the  highest  praise,  and  he  cer- 
tainly was  extremely  handsome.  So  she  thought,  while  she  bewailed  her 
fate  at  being  a  peasant's  daughter,  and  thus  could  have  no  hope  of  wed- 
ding a  prince.  His  thoughts  ran  much  in  the  same  channel,  and,  while  he 
rested  himself  from  his  long  chase  of  a  wild  boar,  he  decided  that  she  was 


CHINA. 


21 


the  most  beautiful  maiden  he  had  ever  met.  He  wondered  what  his 
proud  father  would  say,  should  he  take  her  to  be  his  bride.  As  they 
separated  on  that  afternoon,  an  unrest  came  into  the  life  of  each  which 
had  been  quite  unknown  before,  and  a  longing  both  delightful  to  nurture 
and  hopeless  to  foster. 

"Six  months  passed  without  the  lovers  meeting,  when  one  afternoon 
the  peasant's  family  was  startled  by  the  appearance  of  an  armed  force 
at  their  house.  This  body  was  led  by  a  young  man  of  swarthy  skin  and 
the  flashing  eye  of  the  wild  barbarians  then  overrunning  the  country.  So 
well  was  he  known  to  them  by  the  accounts  which  had  come  of  his  daring 
and  desolating  deeds,  that 
all  recognised  him  as  the 
most  dreaded  enemy  of 
their  race.  Toga  the  Tartar. 

"  His  followers  carried 
now  the  torch  that  had 
desolated  so  many  homes, 
and  the  biting  blade  that 
had  taken  so  many  inno- 
cent lives.  But  as  the 
first  was  to  be  applied  to 
the  home  of  Liauyang,  the 
peasant,  while  he  and  his 
wife  and  children  begged 

to  be  spared,  the  eye  of  the  conqueror  fell  on  the  tearful  face  of  the 
fair   maid,  and  he  waved  back  his   mob,  while  he  exclaimed  : 

" '  Lift  not  a  hand  against  the  maid !  She  is  the  fairest  flower  I  have 
seen  since  we  crossed  the  border,  and,  by  the  god  that  lights  my  path,  she 
shall  be  my  empress  when  I  rule  Manzi,  as  I  am  Ijound  to  do  ere  the  rising 
of  another  moon.' 

"  Thus  the  lives,  not  only  of  the  maid.  l)ut  also  of  lier  father,  mother,  and 
brother,  were  spared,  though  it  was  a  time  of  great  fright  among  them  all. 
From  the  talk  which  they  overheard,  it  was  learned  that  the  Tartar  band 
was  on  its  way  to  surprise  Prince  Li  Hanu',  tlien  encamped  in  a  valley 
some  thirty  Us  (about  ten  miles)  away.  Should  Toga  succeed  in  accom- 
plishing this  surprise,  farewell  then  to  the  hopes  of   the  people.     The 


STONK    (A.MKI. 


^ilarin  of  tlie  maid,  Won,  was  greater  than  that  of  the  others,  as  she 
thought  of  the  fate  impending  over  her  lover,  and  she  resolved  to  save 
him  and  his  army,  if  possible. 

"  So  far  and  fast  had  the  Tartars  come  that  their  chieftain  deemed  it 
wise  to  rest  awhile  here,  and  in  the  gray  twilight  steal  down  upon  Prince 
Li  and  his  men.  So  Won  had  a  little  time  in  which  to  think  and  act, 
though  Toga  seemed  determined  that  she  should  not  leave  his  presence. 


CHINESE    POXY. 


Neither  was  she  allowed  to  speak  with  her  father  or  mother.  Under 
the  jealous  watchfulness  of  her  captor-lover  there  seemed  small  chance 
for  her  to  escape,  much  less  to  warn  the  prince  of  his  deadly  peril.  But 
her  woman's  wit  soon  came  to  her  assistance,  and,  under  the  excuse  of 
going  for  a  choice  melon  for  her  new-found  admirer,  she  was  allowed  to 
quit  his  side  for  a  brief  while.  She  now  lost  no  time  in  fleeing  from  the 
house,  but  she  had  barely  gained  the  cover  of  the  forest  ere  the  wild 
shouts  of  the  Tartars  told  that  her  flight  had  been  discovered.  Then 
followed  an  excitins::  scene. 


CHINA.  23 

"  Wou  fled  down  the  valley  in  the  direction  of  Prince  Li's  camp,  but 
she  had  not  gone  far  before  she  knew  that  it  was  a  hopeless  flight.  The 
swift-footed  sons  of  the  north  were  fast  overtaking  her,  and,  just  as  she 
came  down  close  upon  the  high  cliff  overlooking  the  ancient  Min,  her  pur- 
suers burst  into  sight,  Toga  in  the  lead.  He  shouted  for  her  to  stop. 
In  another  moment  she  would  be  again  in  his  power,  and  then  farewell 
to  her  happiness.  She  had  rather  die  than  to  become  his  captive,  and 
without  hesitation  she  ran  straight  toward  the  brink  of  the  precipice, 
resolving  to  baftle  her  foe  by  leaping  to  death  upon  tlie  rocks  at  the  foot 
of  the  bluff.  It  was  a  desperate  resolution,  but  when  have  the  Chinese 
not  shown  themselves  capable  of  meeting  death  with  unflinching  nerve  ? 
Wou  proved  herself  a  worthy  daughter  of  the  country  of  Min. 

"  So  far  the  tale  has  narrated  no  more  than  what  many  another 
poor  maid  has  suffered.  Now  the  wonderful  takes  place.  As  Wou  ran 
to  the  edge  of  the  rock,  and,  with  a  swift  prayer  to  Buddha,  sprang 
out  over  the  appalling  abyss,  a  dark  form  shot  out  from  a  thicket  near 
by,  and  dropped  just  under  her.  It  was  one  of  the  tigers  that  lived 
then  in  these  parts,  and  whether  he  had  been  frightened  from  his  lair  at 
the  sudden  appearance  of  the  hunted  girl,  or  whether  the  good  Goddess  of 
Mercy  had  known  the  poor  maid's  distress,  and  sent  the  creature  to  save 
her,  only  the  great  and  wise  One  knows.  In  our  prayers  we  remember 
the  goddess. 

"  The  tiger  saved  Wou's  life,  and,  while  the  wild  creature  carried  her 
in  safety  to  the  bed  of  rocks,  its  own  form  was  crushed  and  lifeless.  But 
it  perished  not  alone  that  day.  Toga  and  his  closest  followers,  unaware 
of  the  terrible  trap  in  their  f)athway,  followed  their  fugitive  over  the  brink, 
and  the  Tartar  chief  was  among  the  dead.  His  loss  was  so  great  that  the 
others  were  unable  to  carry  on  tlie  warfare,  so  Prince  Li  was  saved,  the 
empire  of  Manzi  was  secure,  and  Li  and  the  beautiful  Wou  reiiru/^d 
together  as  its  sovereigns." 


VIEW    NEAR    TING-HAI,    CHUSAN    ARCHIPELAGO. 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE    ISLAND    OF    FLOWERS. 


ABOVE  Fiichau  we  pass  through  olive  and  orange  plantations,  over 
which  hang  the  sweet  fragrance  of  the  fruit  and  the  mist  of  the 
waterfall,  making  the  place  seem  like  a  corner  in  fairyland.  At 
some  of  the  towns  that  we  pass  through,  an  ancient  Chinaman  is  to  be 
seen  seated  at  a  bamboo  table,  on  a  bamboo  chair,  smoking  a  bamboo  pipe, 
while  he  looks  out  from  his  bamboo  hut  like  a  sentinel  at  his  post,  as  he 
has  done  for  half  a  century,  more  or  less,  keeping  watch  over  an  orchard 
just  behind  him.  For  a  small  sum  one  of  these  is  induced  to  leave  his 
post  long  enough  to  escort  us  through  fields  of  sugar-cane,  along  the  edge 
01  orange  groves,  and  in  sight  of  tea  grounds  and  rice  fields  to  the  small 
hamlet  of  brick  dwellings  comprising  the  sleepy  inland  town. 

One  of  these  villages,  Shui-kau  (Shoo-kow),  situated  on  a  hillside,  boasts 
of  its  water-works,  which  supply  the  houses  of  the  town  with  water  from 
a  spring  on  the  mountain  a  mile  away  by  means  of  bamboo  spouts  and 
gutters.     Considering  that  this  is  one  of  the  very  few  cases  of  adequate 


CHINA. 


25 


supply  of  good  water  that  we  see,  we  do  not  blame  the  people  here  for 
their  pride. 

Farther  on  we  pass  under  stately  camphor-trees,  looking  noble  in  their 
majestic  height  of  more  than  a  hundred  feet,  rising  with  a  gradual  taper 
without  the  symmetry  of  their  bodies  being  broken  by  a  branch.  Some  of 
these  are  from  four  to  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  never  did  grander  speci- 
mens of  the  ancient  woods  rise  over  man.     Anon  trees  of  o-reater  Hf^e  Ijuw 


JMAl'SOLEl'M    OF    A    NoliLKMAX. 


their  mighty  heads  over  the  river,  their  thick  foliage  made  dense  l)v  mat- 
tings of  climbing  vines  and  parasite  plants,  which  hang  flaunted  like  hoary 
festoons  in  our  very  faces.  Rattan  plants  grow  here  ami  there  in  great 
profusion,  while  orchids  of  a  delicious  perfume  fill  in  the  niches  of  this 
vast  wildwood  garden.  White  lilies  of  matchless  size  and  remarkable 
beauty  lift  their  bright-hued  pennons  to  a  height  that  would  puzzle  a  tall 
man  to  reach  with  a  j^ard-stick  lifted  over  his  head. 

A  city  of   particular  interest  to  Americans  is  that  of  Yan-piug,  built 
under  the  very  shadows  of  the  purple-topped  mountains,  and  standing  on 


a  hill,  looking  down  into  the  river.  It  is  noted  for  having  a  Methodist 
mission  chapel,  conducted  now  by  a  native  missionary.  The  air  is  brac- 
ing and  well  adapted  to  consumptives,  but  the  means  for  keeping  warm  in 
the  cold  season  are  so  primitive  that  men  go  about  carrying  small  charcoal 
furnaces  under  their  clothing  in  order  to  keep  in  any  way  comfortable. 
These  furnaces  are  made  of  copper,  and  are  encased  in  bamboo  baskets. 
They  make  the  men  appear  to  'have  grotesque  figures,  and  the  first  idea  a 
stranger  forms  is  that  he  has  fallen  in  with  a  race  of  humpbacks. 

Fuchau  has  another  monastery  we  must  describe,  when  we  will  bid 
adieu  to  the  storied  Min,  which,  like  the  European  Rhine,  flows  through  a 
jtiistoric  land.  The  Ku-shan,  or  "  Drum  Mountain,"  stands  about  eight 
miles  from  the  town,  and  it  is  claimed  was  at  one  time  infested  with  poi- 
sonous reptiles  and  dragons,  which  had  the  powder  to  bring  storms  upon  the 
sea  and  famine  upon  the  land.  Finally  the  situation  got  so  bad  that  the 
oeople  despaired  of  ever  doing  anything,  and  they  began  to  seek  homes 
far  away.  In  the  midst  of  this  terror  a  certain  wise  man  named  Ling- 
chian  was  implored  to  devise  some  way  by  which  the  country  might  be  rid 
of  the  scourge.  This  man  immediately  went  into  the  midst  of  this  ill- 
fated  and  dreaded  spot,  armed  with  no  more  deadly  weapon  than  a  favourite 
ritualistic  work  called  the  Hua-yen  doctrine.  This  work  he  began  to  read 
m  a  loud  voice,  and  no  sooner  had  the  venomous  creatures  begun  to  listen 
than  certain  ones  commenced  to  crawl  away,  —  whether  in  disgust  or 
alarm  or  influenced  by  some  more  potent  agency,  w^io  can  say,  —  until  the 
reader  stood  alone  in  the  solitude  of  the  valley  under  the  ancient  moun- 
tain. Nor  did  any  of  the  reptiles  ever  return.  The  emperor,  upon  hear- 
ing of  this  wonderful  achievement,  caused  to  be  erected  on  this  spot,  as  a 
monument  of  Ling-chiau's  good  work,  the  Hua-yen  monastery.  This  was 
in  784  A.  D.,  and  since  then  the  original  structure  has  been  replaced  by  a 
successor,  and  that  in  turn  by  another  much  larger  than  the  first.  The 
sacred  building  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  grove  of  venerable  pines,  its  main 
entrance  perpetually  guarded  by  four  sentries  which  are  images  of  the 
Buddhist  faith.  This  retreat  is  the  Mecca  of  many  travel-worn  pilgrims, 
some  of  whom  come  hundreds  of  miles  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  carven 
gods  of  the  Buddha  religion,  "  The  Holy  Trinity,"  whose  colossal  figures 
tower  over  thirty  feet  in  height.  In  front  of  each  is  the  customary  altar, 
strewn  with  candelabra  and  other  daily  offerings  to  the  religion.     A  pecul- 


CHINA. 


27 


iar  feature  of  this  place  is  the  high  veneration  held  for  animals  that  have 
shown  in  any  way  an  instinct  beyond  that  usually  displayed  by  their  kind. 
Hence  large  numbers  of  the  brute  creation  are  cared  for  here  as  sacred 
creatures,  and  whenever  or  wherever  an  animal  displays  uncommon  sagac- 
ity it  is  sure  to  be  received  at  Hua-yen  with  tender  regard. 

Over  two  hundred  monks  live  here  in  their  simple  way,  spending  much 
of  their  time  in  sitting  like  mummies,  supposed  to  be  reviewing  the  set 


IJUDDIIIST    TKMPI.K, 


precepts  of  their  religion.  The  silence  which  seems  a  jxirt  of  the  solemn 
scene  is  broken  by  the  soft  notes  of  a  water  bell,  wliicli  never  ceases  to  scud 
forth  its  monotonous  melody.  At  regular  intervals  the  deep  bass  of  the 
tower  bell  rings  forth  its  awakening  message  under  the  manipulation  of 
one  of  the  faithful  servants  of  Buddha. 

Soon  after  leaving  Fuchau  we  enter  the  Fukien  channel,  the  island  of 
Formosa  lying  off  on  our  left.  Geologists  believe  that  this  detached  strip 
of  country  originally  formed  a  part  of  the  mainland  of  Asia,  though  a 
hundred  miles  of  water  now  separate  it  from  the  mother  continent.     The 


naturalist  aids   his  argument  by  showing  that   the  flora  and  fauna   are 
identical  with  those  of  China. 

Now  we  reach  Anioy,  noted  for  its  orchards  of  that  delicious  fruit, 
pomeloes,  which  thrives  here  in  its  native  soil  as  it  will  nowhere  else,  and 
that  grass  cloth,  which  is  a  natural  product  of  the  place.  Amoy  is  guarded 
at  its  approach  by  huge  granite  sentinels,  whose  bare  shoulders  stand  grim 


WATER    Bl'FFALOES. 


and  ominous  beside  the  entrance  to  the  harbour.  The  gray  heads  of  some 
of  these  rise  several  feet  above  the  tide,  and  are  looked  upon  with  great 
veneration  by  the  natives  as  being  dispensers  of  good  luck  to  those  who 
ply  their  craft  on  these  waters.  They  are  associated  with  the  Feng-sliid, 
or  good  fortune  of  the  locality.  The  harbour  is  thronged  with  junks  carry- 
ing loads  of  tea,  a  large  proportion  of  which  comes  from  Formosa,  which 
has  been  such  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  China  for  centuries.  Before  visitinsj; 
Amoy  long  enough  to  speak  particularly  of  the  town,  we  purpose  to  make 


CHINA.  29 

a  flying  trip  to  the  island  whose  name  has  been  dinned  in  our  ears  ever 
since  Japan  was  first  mentioned. 

The  Portuguese,  noted  for  their  sentimentahty  in  designating  countries, 
named  this  Isla  Formosa,  the  Beautiful  Island.  It  extends  in  a  northerly 
and  southerly  course  for  about  250  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  is  eighty 
miles.  A  lofty  range  of  mountains,  with  peaks  nearly  fourteen  thousand 
feet'  in  height,  runs  like  a  backbone  the  entire  length  of  the  island. 
Like  all  countries,  it  was  originally  populated  by  a  race  of  savages,  who 
were  driven  back  into  the  mountainous  districts  by  the  early  Chinese, 
who  came  over  in  small  parties.  But  with  all  of  their  settlements,  the 
people  from  the  continent  have  never  to  any  extent  crossed  this  natural 
barrier  dividing  the  island,  and  to  this  day  this  territory  of  the  highlands 
is  held  largely  by  the  aborigines. 

The  capital  of  Formosa  is  the  ancient  city  of  Tai-wan-fu,  a  w^alled  town 
of  about  seventy-five  thousand  inhabitants.  Bewildering  accounts  survive 
in  regard  to  the  founding  of  this  city  by  the  natives  of  the  Fukien  province 
and  the  Hak-kas  from  China.  The  descendants  of  these  people  are  the 
principal  inhabitants  at  the  present  time,  not  only  of  this  city,  but  of 
the  surrounding  country,  which  they  are  rapidly  improving. 

Tai-wan-fu  has  a  stirring  history.  x\t  one  time  it  was  under  Dutch 
control,  which  is  still  shown  by  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Provincia  and  the 
extensive  parks  filled  with  groves  of  venerable  bamboos  and  other  trees. 
But  after  twelve  months  of  fierce  struggles  against  the  Chinese  corsair 
Koxinga  and  his  followers,  in  1661  it  was  wrested  from  the  Dutch  and 
sacked  by  the  conquerors,  as  mentioned  in  our  history  of  the  Philippines. 
Other  scenes  of  horror  have  taken  place  within  more  recent  years,  and 
just  outside  the  city  we  come  upon  a  barren  plain  known  as  "  the  death 
ground,"  where,  on  the  morning  of  an  August  day  in  1842,  160  Euro- 
peans were  led  out  under  sentence  of  death,  followed  by  a  hooting, 
exultant  mob,  eager  to  behold  the  execution  of  the  "  foreign  devils " 
Their  w'M  joy  w^as  swiftly  turned  to  terror  and  wails  of  sorrow,  when, 
as  if  an  act  of  speedy  retribution,  one  of  the  worst  storms  of  that  country 
burst  upon  the  scene  unlieralded.  In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  turbid 
streams  were  formed  on  the  surface  of  the  dry  earth,  which  overflowed 
the  level  land;  huge  trees  were  uprooted  l)y  the  tornado,  and  houses 
caught  up  and  carried  away  on  its  wings  of  wind  like  toys.     Above  the 


tumult  of  the  elements  r.ang  the  death-cries  of  the  doomed  wretches,  over 
two  thousand  of  whom   it  is  believed  perished.     The  superstitious   sur 
vivors  claimed  it  was  the  seal   of  God's   anger  put  upon  the  execution 
of  innocent  lives,  and  that  the  rain  fell  to  wash  clean  the  ground  of  the 
blood  of  the  slain. 

There  is  no  harbour  at  Tai-wan-fu  now,  though  the  accounts  of  the 
Dutch  say  that  they  anchored   their  ships  in   a  safe  haven  between  an 


1  1  J  1  >   • 

-  ':-«?,               _  -  ^  «  -.  ^  ,  ~  *    . -  ji.#tjyy<y«a ibatfi^tiBH^^H^MiWBMSia — ^-  -  - 

■H^I^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HI 

GANG    OF    PRISONERS    WEARING    THE    CANGUE. 


island  where  the  old  Fort  Zelandia  stands  and  the  Provincia.  Koxinga's 
fleet  found  a  spacious  harbour  where  now  rises  the  arid  plain  of  Tewara. 
outside  of  the  city.  At  the  present  time  a  vessel  is  obliged  to  anchor 
two  miles  away.  The  town  is  reached  from  the  ships  by  means  of  that 
curious  craft  called  the  catamaran,  which  is  simply  a  raft  of  bamboo  poles 
lashed  together  with  rattan.  These  ribs  of  the  strange  float  are  bent, 
after  having  been  toughened,  so  as  to  form  a  hollow  in  the  middle.  It 
is  arranged  to  carry  a  single  sail  by  means  of  a  fastening  near  the  centre. 
The  passengers  are  expected  to  sit  squat  in  a  big  tub,  capable  of  holding 


CHINA. 


31 


four  persons  in  this  uncomfortable  position.  There  is  nothing  for  one 
to  do  to  keep  from  being  rolled  into  the  sea,  during  the  lurches  of  the 
clumsy  craft,  except  to  cling  to  the  rim  of  this  crude  "  cabin."  "Woe  to 
him  who  gets  caught  in  one  of  these  shallops  during  a  monsoon. 

In  spite  of  the  warlike  scenes  forming  the  background  of  its  history, 
the  city  looks  sleepy  enough  to-day.  It  occupies  in  extent  about  live 
miles  of  territory,  and  has  many  fertile  fields  and  luxuriant  gardens, 
the  entrance  to  which  is  made  along  a  network  of  paths  running  between 
overhanging  walls  of  cactus  and  wild  fuchsias,  ilhmiinated  with  their  bril- 


IJKIlXiE    NKAK    SHANGHAI. 


liant  flowers  and  the  convolvulus  hanging  in  huge  clusters.  At  other 
places  one  walks  for  a  long  distance  between  walls  of  baml)oo,  their 
pointed  crests  forming  an  archway  of  delicate  synnnetry  and  beauty. 

Wherever  one  goes  in  Formosa,  the  centres  of  jiopnlation  arc  distin- 
guished afar  off  by  the  groves  of  areca  palms  and  ltanib()t)s,  which  line 
sylvan  pathways  leading  into  the  villages.  Upon  nearer  approach,  the 
odour  of  sweet  smelling  flowers,  among  which  are  most  conspicuous  the 
wild  white  roses  that  peep  profusely  from  the  hedges,  fills  the  air.  The 
Chinese  are  passionately  fond  of  flowers,  which  fact  is  attested  in 
every  part  of  the  Flowery  Kingdom.     Here  they  are  favoured  with  the 


choicest  treasures  of  the  Temperate  zone  growing  wild  in  abundance 
beside  their  brighter  and  more  luxuriant  sisters  of  the  Tropics.  Here, 
too,  the  bright  prospect  is  enlivened  by  the  cheery  song  of  the  field 
lark,  common  also  to  certain  parts  of  Southern  China  and  in  the  valley 
of  the  Great  River.  The  island  is  estimated  to  have  a  population  of 
three   million,   five   put   of   every  six   being   Chinamen.      Formosa    now 


A    LOTUS    POXD. 


belongs  to  Japan,  with  which  it  is  really  more  closely  associated,  notwith- 
standing what  has  been  said  by  the  geologist  and  naturalist. 

Our  return  to  Amoy  is  made  by  steamer,  after  a  week's  stay  on  the 
Island  of  Flowers,  and,  upon  landing  on  the  mainland,  we  are  soon 
impressed  with  the  feeling  that  we  shall  not  care  to  prolong  our  visit 
here.  As  in  other  Chinese  cities,  the  native  population  is  huddled 
together  in  dilapidated  dwellings.  The  single  street  which  runs  the 
length  of  the  town  is  narrow  and  so  poorly  paved  that  at  night-time 
it  is  unsafe  for  even  a  native  to  find  his  way. 

The  place  is  under  a  cloud,. resulting  from  unjust  import  duties,  regu- 


CHINA.  33 

lated  mainly  by  local  officials,  and  the  war-tax  called  Lekin,  which  was 
the  legacy  of  a  petty  rebellion  in  1853,  and  has  never  been  removed.  To 
Amoy,  however,  the  war  proved  anything  but  petty.  As  in  the  case  of 
many  another  insurrection  which  has  arisen  in  China,  it  originated  from  a 
secret  order  dispute.  It  has  been  designated  as  the  "  small  knife  "  war, 
and  the  leader  was  believed  to  have  been  a  Chinaman  from  Singapore. 
Should  Amoy  secure  a  more  enterprising  government,  its  future  might 
be  made  bright,  for  it  is  really  a  port  of  considerable  trade.  Though 
the  Japanese  now  control  the  commerce  of  Formosa,  they  cannot  do  other- 
wise than  seek  this  place  as  their  natural  outlet  for  trade  with  China  in 
tea,  sugar,  and  other  products. 

Among  the  bright  pictures  of  Amoy,  amid  much  that  is  dark  and 
unpromising,  are  the  flower  girls  and  flower-makers.  The  manufac- 
tories are  in  narrow,  crooked  alleyways  of  a  dingy,  dirty  part  of  the 
city,  but  as  the  lily  grows  from  the  stagnant  water,  to  yield  its  rare 
beauty  and  perfume  where  all  else  is  foul,  so  these  pretty  artificial 
flowers  spring  from  hands  that  are  far  from  clean  and  surroundings 
that  show  little  of  the  comforts,  to  say  nothing  of  the  fairer  virtues, 
of  life.  After  we  have  bought  a  bouquet  from  one  of  the  little  vendors, 
who  comes  dangerously  near  being  pretty,  she  escorts  us  to  one  of  the 
headquarters  of  this  art  of  imitating  nature,  where  we  find  many  arti- 
ficial roses,  pinks,  lilies,  and  azaleas  so  beautiful  and  perfect  that  we  are 
fain  to  believe  we  can  catch  something  of  the  perfume  belonging  to  those 
of  which  they  are  such  exact  prototypes.  They  are  made  from  the  pitli 
of  a  plant  found  in  Formosa,  and  we  see  little  tots  scarcely  large  enough 
to  stand  alone,  as  well  as  the  old  and  the  middle-aged,  fashioning  with 
cunning  fingers  these  beautiful  imitations.  We  stand  and  watch  tliem 
for  some  time,  and  when  we  make  our  purchase,  murmured  thanks  fill 
our  ears.  We  turn  away  reluctantly,  carrying  witli  us  the  peculiar  sen- 
sation of  feeling  that  we  have  looked  upon  a  little  corner  of  paradise  in 
a  wilderness  of  poverty. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE    HUB    OF    THE    WORLD. 

LEAVING  Amoy  amid  its  shadows,  a  pleasant  passage  down  the 
irregular  coast-line  soon  brings  us  in  sight  of  the  island  Gibraltar 
of  the  eastern  continent,  holding  on  its  rock-bound  shoulders  the 
watch-dog  of  Asia,  Hong-kong,  of  which  we  have  been  getting  frequent, 
but  vague,  accounts  ever  since  we  entered  the  Far  East.  Our  mind's  eye 
has  pictured  it  to  us  in  the  vivid  colours  of  the  imagination,  and  now, 
with  mingled  feelings  of  relief  and  pleasure  that  we  are  here  at  last,  of 
wonder  and  strange  fears  for  what  we  know  not,  we  look  eagerly  for- 
ward for  the  reality  of  the  dream.  In  the  midst  of  our  excitement  the 
great  white  steamer  glides  between  the  brown,  massive  jaws  of  burnt 
rock  forming  Limoon  Pass  like  a  huge,  snowy  swan  darting  through 
the  needle's  eye  of  the  big  harbour,  her  pure  white  blending  softly  with 
the  deep  blue  of  the  Oriental  sky  and  the  sapphire  of  the  Celestial 
waters.  In  the  distance,  innumerable  merchant  ships  lie  at  anchor, 
while  the  war-ships  of  all  nations  hover  near  by.  Then  we  recall  with 
a  deep,  personal  interest,  that  it  was  at  this  port,  on  that  memorable 
26th  of  April,  1898,  that  our  own  Admiral  Dewey  received  his  order 
to  set  forth  on  his  conquest  of  Manila,  and  incidentally  of  the  Phil- 
ippines, which  was  to  herald  the  glory  of  American  arms  to  the  world. 
But  we  soon  lose  the  thread  of  this  thought  in  the  confusion  quickly 
following.  The  passengers  are  to  be  taken  ashore  on  steam  launches, 
and  there  is  a  general  rush  to  see  who  shall  be  first.  Hundreds  of 
sampans,  which  seem  to  be  manned  entirely  by  women,  shrill-voiced 
and  fearless,  swarm  around  us.  We  have  seen  nothing  like  this  before. 
Suddenly  it  dawns  upon  us  with  forceful  truth,  which  we  are  not 
slow  to  appreciate,  that  we  are  virtually  at  the  hub  of  the  world.  From 
this  isolated  port  of  a  foreign  empire,  tottering-  on  its  ancient  throne, 


CHINA. 


35 


radiates,  like  the  spokes  from  the  hub  of  a  gigantic  wheel,  routes  to 
all  parts  of  the  universe.  From  this  port  the  traveller  may  take  pas- 
sage to  any  country  of  his  choice.  "  The  Land  of  the  Southern  Cross," 
Australia,  and  "  The  Switzerland  of  the  South  Seas,"  New  Zealand,  lie 
both  on  a  direct  course ;  or  one  may  pass  under  the  azure  skies  of  the 
Southern  Seas  so  as  to  stop  at  the  '•'  Land  of  Afternoons,"  Samoa,  and 


VIEW    IN     HUNG  -  KUNG 


"The  Gem  of  the  Pacific,"  Tahiti;  or,  he  may  visit  the  "Garden  of  the 
East,"  Java;  "The  Pearl  of  the  Orient."  the  Pliilippines ;  "The  Paradise 
of  the  Pacific,"  Hawaii,  and,  keeping  on,  enter  through  the  "'  Golden 
Gate  "  of  the  American  Republic.  Another  route  will  take  him  through 
the  equatorial  centre  of  the  Orient,  India,  leading  liim  on  tlirough  the  Red 
Sea  and  the  Suez  Canal  into  the  sunny  calm  of  tlie  blue  ^lediterranean. 
But  those  ocean  trips  are  not  fixed  in  our  mind.  We  are  to  see  China, 
and  to  undertake  the  colossal   journey  of  six   thousand  miles  into  the 


interior  of  the  oldest  empire  on  earth.  While  we  glance  over  the  Oriental 
city  under  Occidental  rule,  we  shall  incidentally  arrange  for  this  stupen- 
dous inland  trip, 

Hong-kong  has  been  fitly  described  as  "  situated  on  the  steep  slope  of 
a  mountain.  As  it  rises  from  the  sea,  and  terrace  by  terrace  climbs  the 
eighteen  hundred  feet  to  the  summit  of  the  peak,  it  is  most  imposing  and 
beautiful.  Again  the  w^iite  houses  seem  to  be  slipping  down  the  bold 
hillside  and  spreading  out  at  the  water's  edge  in  a  frontage  of  more 
than  three  miles.  The  lines  of  the  two  viaducts,  named  for  a  couple 
of  favourite  governors,  the  Bown  and  the  Kennedy  Roads,  draw  white 
coronals  around  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  and  terraced  roads  band  the 
hillside  with  long  white  lines.  All  the  luxuriant  green  of  the  slopes  is 
due  to  man's  agency,  and  since  the  island  was  ceded  to  England,  in  1841, 
afforestation  has  wrought  miracles.  A  cable  road  communicates  with  the 
peak,  and  at  night,  when  the  harbour  is  bright  with  myriads  of  lights 
and  trails  of  phosphorescence,  the  whole  slope  glows  and  twinkles  with 
electricity,  gas,  and  oil,  and  the  lights  of  the  cable-cars  are  fiery  beads 
slipping  up  and  down  an  invisible  cord."  The  island  on  which  the  city 
stands  is  nearly  eleven  miles  in  length,  with  an  extreme  width  of  four 
miles,  which  narrows  in  places  to  one-half  that  distance. 

The  city  has  a  European  population  of  some  ten  thousand,  while  the 
Chinese  inhabitants,  mostly  located  on  the  lower  levels  of  the  town,  num- 
ber over  two  hundred  thousand.  In  addition  to  these  figures  the  harbour 
holds  a  floating  population  of  twenty  thousand  people  who  live  upon  boats, 
and  who  manage  to  obtain  a  living  by'  fishing  or  working  on  the  vessels  in 
the  harbour.  These  quite  constitute  a  race  by  themselves,  though  not  con- 
fined to  this  locality,  as  they  live  in  the  waters  of  Amoy,  on  Pearl  River, 
and  in  other  places  along  the  Asiatic  coast.  They  are  noted  as  being 
weather-wise.  Keeping  a  constant  watch  over  the  state  of  the  atmos- 
phere, they  "can  tell  to  within  a  few  hours  the  approach  of  a  typhoon, 
which  is  a  source  of  dread  by  all.  Before  others  have  noticed  any  indica- 
tion of  the  rising  gale,  they  will  be  seen  making  in  a  body  for  the  shore  of 
,  the  mainland,  where  they  will  remain  until  the  elements  have  spent  their 
fury.  Then  they  will  return  to  their  usual  place  as  if  no  change  had 
disturbed  them.  The  men  are  hardy,  weather-beaten,  and  often  ill- 
favoured  :  but  the  women  are  sometimes  finelv  formed  and  attractive  of 


CHINA. 


37 


feature.     Few  men  wear  any  clothing  above  the  waist,  though  the  females 

go  well-dressed,  and  appear  clean  and  modest. 

The  first  impression  of  the  stranger,  as  he  sets  his  foot  on  land,  can 

hardly  be  favourable,  especially  if  he  is  an  American  or  a  European.     This 

is  caused  by  the 
mixed  crowd  of 
people  that  jostle 
against  him,  and 
beseech  him  for  ail 
sorts  of  concessions, 
with  a  complete  in- 
difference to  good 
manners.  Among 
these  motley  mem- 
bers of  this  singu- 
larly peopled  city, 
where  the  East  and 
the  West  clasp 
hands,  ^vherc  Eu- 
rope mingles  with 
Asia,  Oceanica  with 
both,  and  America 
with  all,  he  meets 
the  Jew,  Turk,  Mo- 
hammedan, Briton, 
Frenchman,  Ger- 
man, Hindu,  Java- 
nese, Malay,  Japa- 
nese, Parsee,  Sikh, 

WIRE-HOPE    TKAMWAY,    HONG-KONG.  CingalCSC,     PortU- 

guese,  half-caste, 
with  others  that  he  cannot  name,  and  everywliere  the  hard-featured 
Chinese  coolie,  carrying  loaded  poles,  buckets,  baskets,  sedan-chair,  or 
trotting  before  a  clumsy  jinrikisha.  Miss  Scidmore  aptly  says ;  "  An 
Indian  mjah,  swathed  in  white,  descends  the  long  stairway  of  a  side 
street;  a    Sikh    policeman  stands   statuesque  and  imperial   at  a  corner; 


a  professional  mender,  with  owlish  spectacles,  sits  by  her  basket  of 
rags,  darning  and  patching;  a  barber  drops  liis  pole  and  boxes,  and 
begins  to  operate  upon  a  customer ;  rows  of  coolies  sitting  against 
some  greasy  wall  submit  their  heads  to  one  another's  friendly  atten- 
tion ;  a  group  of  pig-tailed  youngsters  play  a  sort  of  shuttlecock  with 
their  feet ;  peddlers  split  one's  ears  with  their  yells ;  fire-crackers  sputter 
and  bang  their  appeals  to  joss ;  and  from  the  harbour  comes  the  boom 
of  naval  salutes  for  some  arriving  man-of-war,  the  admiral,  governor, 
or  a  consul  paying  ship  visits."  If  all  this  is  confusing  we  must  never- 
theless soon  get  used  to  it,  since  we  begin  at  once  our  tour  of  the  most 
interesting  parts  of  the  city. 

Hong-kong  is  justly  proud  of  her  groves  of  palms,  her  mimosas  in  blos- 
som, her  banyan-shaded  roads,  and  her  botanical  gardens.  We  ascend  to 
higher  grounds  in  a  sedan-chair,  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  two  wiry 
coolies,  who  charge  us  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  cents  an  hour.  If  this  is 
thought  high,  it  will  still  be  best  to  submit  quietly,  and  to  look  out  how 
one  makes  his  trade  next  time.  Confused  cries  and  bitter  imprecations 
reach  our  ears  from  a  short  distance  away,  where  some  one  has  attempted 
to  cut  down  the  wages  of  his  chair-man.  The  matter  is  not  settled  as  we 
move  out  of  hearing,  glad  to  escape  from  getting  mixed  up  in  the  affair. 
It  is  well  that  the  new  cable  road  to  tlie  peak  has  reduced  the  number 
who  travel  in  this  way.  Many,  however,  still  go  by  chair  and  jinrikisha, 
which  is  considered  in  poorer  taste  but  cheaper ;  some  choose  the  latter 
methods  of  travelling  for  the  novelty  of  the  trip,  if  for  no  other  reason. 

We  soon  find  ourselves  picking  up  the  peculiar  idioms  of  the  country, 
the  "  pigeon-English  "  that  the  newcomer  gladly  accepts  so  that  he  may 
be  understood  enough  to  get  around  without  a  tin-chai,  or  guide  and 
interpreter.  We  hear  some  one  calling  "  clio}}  clioi^,''  which  means  "  be 
lively ; "  another  sa^^s  "  makee,''  and  wishes  to  be  understood  to  mean 
"all  right,"  —  a  common  assent  to  whatever  is  taking  place.  Such  ex- 
pressions as  choic  cJioiv,  or  the  single  choiv,  f^  "  food,"  catcJi  for  "  buy  " 
or  "hr'mg,"  piecee  for  "article,"  ski  fang  for  "free,"  ^;?^  shi,  "no,"  kwoh, 
"country,  wide,"  etc.,  ynt  sum  for  "have  patience,"  liee  lie  shu  for  "come 
here,"j^e  tee  for  "be  quick,"  chin  for  "we,"  and  others,  help  one  over  the 
rough  places  to  a  wonderful  extent.  The  occupant  of  the  chair  manages 
his  bearers  very  much  as  he  would  control  a  horse  in  this  country,  only  it 


CHINA. 


39 


is  done  without  reins.  If  he  wants  to  be  put  down  on  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  street  he  raps  the  pole  on  that  side,  or  if  the  case  is  different  he 
strikes  the  opposite  bar.  He  raps  for  them  to  start,  and  he  raps  for  them 
to  stop.  They,  in  turn,  rap  for  him  to  sit  still  when  he  begins  to  move 
about,  and  if  he  fails  to  sit  so  that  an  easy  equilibrium  can  be  kept  he  is 
rapped  to  the  position  desired. 

We  are  attracted  by  a  district  possessing  the  high-sounding  name,  Tai 
Ping  Shang,  or  "  Hill  of  Great  Peace,"  and  thither  we  wend  our  steps  at 


HAO-KT    TEMPLE    AT     HONG-KONG. 


the  earliest  opportunity.  We  soon  find,  however,  that  the  name  is  au  ilhi- 
sion,  a  gilded  title  to  designate  a  casket  of  shame.  It  is  a  Chinese  quarter, 
the  "  Five  Points  of  Hong-kong."  Here  sulk  the  outlaws  of  society,  and 
here  the  vagabonds  of  the  race  seek  the  hollow  pleasures  of  low  life.  Here 
dissolute  women  and  unprincipled  men  eke  out  a  miserable  existence. 
Here  are  found  public  houses  which  no  foreigner  can  understand,  and  lodg- 
ing-houses which  he  would  shrink  from  knowing.  The  entertainment 
seeker  visits  a  peculiar  institution  known  as  the  ''  music  hall."  We  are 
content   to  give  the   description  of  another,  having  no  doubt  that   this 


description   will   answer  for  all,   and    they    are    not    uncommon   by  any 
means. 

"  At  the  entrance  there  stood  an  altar,  crowned  with  votive  offerings 
dedicated  to  the  god  of  pleasure,  whose  image  surmounted  the  shrine.  To 
the  right  and  left  of  this  hung  scrolls,  on  which  high  moral  precepts 
were  inscribed,  sadly  at  variance  with  the  real  character  of  the  place. 
Half  a  dozen  of  the  most  fascinating  of  the  female  singers  were  seated 


CITY    HALI.    AT    HONG  -  K()X(i 


outside  the  gate ;  their  robes  were  of  richly  embroidered  silk,  their 
faces  were  enamelled,  and  their  hair  bedecked  with  perfmned  flowers 
and  dressed,  in  some  cases,  to  represent  a  teapot,  in  others,  a  bird  with 
spread  wings  on  the  top  of  the  head.  On  the  ground  floor  all  the  avail- 
able space  was  taken  up  with  rows  of  narrow  compartments,  each  one 
furnished  with  an  opium  couch,  and  all  the  appliances  for  using  the  drug. 
Here  were  girls  in  constant  attendance,  some  ready  to  prepare  and  charge 
the  bowl  with  opium,  and  others  to  strum  upon  the  lute  and  sing  sw^eet 
melodies  to  waft  the  sleeper  off  into  dreamland,  under  the  strangely  fas- 


CHINA.  41 

cinating  influences  which,  ere  long,  will  make  him  wholly  their  slave. 
On  the  first  floor,  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  there  is  a  deserted  music 
room  showing  traces  of  the  revel  of  the  preceding  night  in  faded  garlands 
which  still  festoon  its  carved  and  gilded  ceiling.  There  were  two  more 
stories  to  the  edifice,  both  of  them  partitioned  off  in  the  same  way  as  the 
ground  floor." 

We  engage  a  jinrikisha  man  to  take  us  into  "Happy  Valley,"  where 
the  race-course  draws  its  crowds,  and  on  the  way  we  go  past  the  barracks. 
We  see  the  City  Hall  and  its  museum,  where  an  hour  is  well  spent ;  we 
pass  cemeteries  of  the  Catholics,  Jews,  Parsees,  Anglicans,  and  Moham- 
medans, each  with  its  traditions  of  local  and  general  interest. 

In  its  cosmopolitan  population,  firm  British  rule,  magnificent  European 
residences,  squalid  Chinese  huts,  broad  avenues  leading  to  the  foreign 
section,  narrow  streets  winding  toward  the  native  portion  of  the  cit}', 
the  churches  of  Christ  and  temples  of  Buddha,  Hong-kong  presents 
one  of  the  strangest  medleys  of  the  human  races,  and  is  an  outpost  most 
fittingly  situated  to  become  the  entrance  to  that  long-lived  empire  founded 
by  the  Chinese,  empowered  by  the  Mongols,  and  lifted  into  modern 
prominence  by  the  Manchu  chieftains  of  the  North. 

The  island  of  Hong-kong  has  another  city  besides  that  bearing  its 
name,  the  English  colony  comprising  the  city  of  Victoria,  which  has  a 
colonial  governor  and  staff,  and  holds  its  own  court  and  social  tribunal. 
This  is  the  naval  station  for  the  British  Asiatic  fleet,  while  the  munitions 
of  war  are  stored  just  across  the  channel  on  the  Kowloon  shore.  Tliis 
crown  of  the  Eastern  watchman,  while  fashioned  by  the  mind  and  culture 
of  the  foreigner,  is  still  the  handicraft  of  the  native,  who  has  hewn  from  a 
rock-girt  island  a  city  that  has  no  rival  in  the  Far  East.  Its  fine  stone 
fronts,  beautiful  esplanades,  and  princely  residences  afford  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  dwellings  of  the  race  that  did  the  real  work  in  their 
construction,  showing  most  aptly  the  result  of  a  marked  combination  of 
mind  and  muscle.  The  thrift  of  the  Chinese  is  everywhere  visible  in  the 
cheerful  contentment  with  which  he  continues  his  unvaried  non-progress. 
The  British  flag  was  raised  over  this  island  in  1843,  and  it  has  never  Ijeen 
hauled  down  since. 


STEAMER    RUNNING    FROM    HONG  -  KONG    TO    CANTON. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE    THREE    RIVERS. 


WE  have  now  so  far  decided  upon  our  route  of  travel  that  we 
resolve  to  go  ahead  without  delay  or  hesitation.  We  will  first 
pay  a  flying  trip  to  the  old  Portuguese  town  of  Macao,  and  then 
start  for  Canton  by  way  of  Pearl  River.  Regular  lines  of  steamers  ply 
between  Hong-kong  and  the  latter  city,  and  beyond.  It  is  a  fine  pleasure 
trip,  along  a  broad  river-way,  the  tourist  seeing  on  the  way  the  Bogue 
forts,  before  which  the  British  ships  were  anchored  in  1637,  among  the 
fi.rst  vessels  to  discover  old  Cathay. 

If  nature  was  very  kind  to  China  in  the  matter  of  furnishing  her  with 
avenues  of  transportation,  her  people  have  been  quite  as  chary  in  improv- 
ing or  adding  to  these.  The  empire  has  a  coast-line  greater  than  the 
combined  distances  of  the  shores  of  the  two  oceans  washing  the  United 
States,  while  her  extent  of  inland  waterways  are  not  equalled  by  any 
other  country.     These  courses  have  been  her  sole  dependence  for  carrying 


CHINA 


43 


on  her  commerce  and  trade.  It  is  true  she  has  built  loner  lines  of  canals, 
but  the  better  portion  of  these  eventually  fell  into  disuse  and  decay.  She 
has  never  had  any  great  highways,  like  the  people  of  the  Incas  and  some 
of  the  races  of  Europe.  Instead  of  long  trains  of  animals  laden  ^vitll  the 
products  of  the  land  moving  slowly  to  some  distant  market,  solitary 
persons  have  crossed  a  trackless  country  upon  journeys  requiring  months 
of   hardship    and    poorly  paid    time.      With    all    her  vast   territory  and 


ON    1JI1-:   .nA(_kki>  island  ok  I'uo  n 


examples  of  modern  i)rogress,  she  has  only  a  little  over  five  hundred 
miles  of  railroad,  built  within  a  few  years.  This  presents  a  striking  con- 
trast to  Japan,  which  in  a  little  over  a  quarter  of  a  century  has  constructed 
more  than  seven  times  that  distance  of  road  and  rims  the  entire  lines 
within  its  own  control.  Speaking  of  the  utter  laclv  of  enterprise  in  the 
matter  of  opening  up  the  rivers  for  the  better  passage  of  craft,  rciuiiids 
us  of  the  boatman  on  tlie  Yangtse,  whose  sail  had  become  so  dilapidated 
that  it  was  only  with  difficulty  and  extreme  slowness  tliat  he  could  get 
ahead.     When  asked  why  he  did  not  get  a  new  one,  he  replied  :  "  As  long 


as  the  old  one  holds  it  will  be  a  sail."  "  But  think  of  the  time  you  are 
losing.  You  would  soon  make  up  for  the  cost  of  a  new  sail  in  the  time 
saved."  "  Time  saved  ?  How  can  you  save  what  is  always  slipping 
away  ? "  and  lie  resumed  his  smoking  and  his  serious  contentment  with 
unruffled  calmness. 

From  among  the  several  river  routes  into  the  interior  we  have  selected 
two,  that  of  the  Yangtse  Kiang  and  the  Cantonese  or  West  River  course. 
We  shall  pass  up  tlie  last  named  to  its  headwaters,  and  then,  crossing  the 
country  to  the  Great  Kiver,  follow  that  to  the  sea ;  from  thence  we  will 

go  northward  to 
Pekin  and  be- 
yond, getting  a 
bird's-eye  view  of 
Mongolia  and  the 
plains  of  Man- 
churia. First  we 
shall  cross  the 
provinces  of  the 
two  Kwangs, 
tung  and  si, 
which  words 
mean  respect- 
ively east  and 
west.  This  is  on 
the  route  to  Tong 

King,  or  Cochin  China,  and  Burma.  We  shall  enter  the  long  debatable 
ground  of  Shan  and  Laos,  and  shall  climl)  the  highlands  of  Tibet,  and 
descend  into  the  valleys  of  the  River  of  the  Golden  Sands,  cross  the 
track  of  the  renowned  Venetian  explorers,  the  Polos,  and  finally  seek 
the  pathway  trod  centuries  ago  by  the  conquering  armies  of  the  rest- 
less races  of  the  North.  It  will  be  a  stupendous  journey,  taking 
perhaps  three  years  to  accomplish,  certainly  two,  but  we  shall  not 
weary  the  reader  with  the  petty  details  of  the  arduous  undertaking,  how 
many  times  we  have  to  change  methods  of  conveyance,  interpreters,  and 
guides,  and  the  almost  constant  vexations  that  hover  over  the  traveller  in 
a  foreign  land.     Though  our  note-book  is  largely  filled  with  personal  an- 


DRITM    TOWER,    NANKIN. 


CHINA. 


45 


noyances  so  common  to  the  lot  of  otliers  in  like  circumstances,  we  shall 
select  only  those  which  have  a  direct  bearing  iq)on  tlie  result.  In  short, 
we  shall  endeavour  to  make  our  account  readable,  frequently  drawing  from 
the  records  of  others,  with  proper  credit,  for  descriptions  of  districts  where 
we,  because  of  some  local  restrictions  or  for  other  reasons,  cannot  penetrate 
at  the  time. 

The  town  of  Macao,  founded  by  the  Portuguese  more  than  three  cen- 


A    TYPICAL    CANAL    VIKW, 


turies  ago,  stands  across  the  bay  from  Hong-kong.  Tin-  Chinese  have 
attempted  to  cut  off  all  intercourse  between  Macao  and  the  mainland 
by  building  a  high  wall  across  the  isthmus  upon  which  the  town  is  raised. 
China  does  not  like  to  acknowledge  that  this  foreign  child  has  any  l)nsi- 
ness  to  be  there.  The  Portuguese  claim  that  the  land  was  ceded  to  them 
during  their  early  relations  with  the  empire.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the 
parent  country  seems  long  ago  to  have  forgotten  her  offspring,  and  the 
latter  has  several  times  fallen  under  Chinese  government.     Its  checkered 


.liistory  is  far  from  being  clear  of  dark  spots,  and  an  air  of  melancholy 
liard  to  throw  off  hangs  over  the  place.  The  most  interesting  part  to 
foreigners  is  the  fashionable  promenade,  Praya  Grande,  which  sweeps 
majestically  toward  the  noted  water-place.  The  sea-baths  are  of  wide- 
spread repute.  Macao  is  noted  for  its  olden  fortress,  its  gardens,  and  the 
grotto  where  it  is  said  Camoens  wrote  his  poems,  thongli  what  attraction 
he  found  here  to  awaken  his  muse  is  beyond  our  telling.  It  is  the  Monte 
Carlo  of  the  Far  East.  Here  the  fortune-seekers  of  the  Occident  and  the 
Orient  meet  to  risk  fortune,  honour,  and  often  life  on  a  bit  of  ivory  or 
the  falling  of  a  scrap  of  paper.  More  opium,  it  is  claimed,  is  loaded  here 
than  from  any  other  port  in  China.  The  inhabitants  of  Macao  are  con- 
sidered to  be  Portuguese,  but  if  that  is  so  they  must  be  degenerate  de- 
scendants, or  else  the  race  at  home  has  increased  its  stature  since  the 
ancient  days  when  the  bold  navigators  entered  the  bay  and  took  posses- 
sion in  the  name  of  their  patron.  On  the  whole,  we  are  disappointed  with 
Macao.  It  is  true  that  it  has  its  picturesque  spots,  its  quaint  old  houses, 
and  its  reminiscences  of  Camoens  and  Chinnery,  but  little  is  left  save 
the  memory  of  a  departed  greatness.  Its  streets  are  deserted  at  all  times, 
its  men  are  mere  dolls,  and  like  dolls  dress  alike ;  its  women,  although 
gaily  dressed,  are  faded  and  sallow-faced ;  over  all  the  scene  hangs  an 
air  of  listlessness,  as  if  Time  had  forgotten  to  move  here  and  Nature 
had  gone  to  sleep  long  ago. 

Our  objective  point,  after  visiting  Macao,  is  Canton,  to  reach  which 
we  take  passage  on  a  steamer  up  the  broad  estuary  known  as  Pearl 
River.  On  our  way  we  pass  through  the  Sheffield  of  Cathay,  Fat-shan. 
Notwithstanding  that  the  iron  used  has  to  be  imported,  the  industry  of 
the  factories  here  has  never  been  supplanted  by  outsiders.  One  reason 
for  this  is  the  cheapness  of  Chinese  labour,  as  well  as  the  fact  that  the 
v^^ares  made  by  them  are  better  adapted  to  the  methods  of  the  peddlers 
handling  them.  This  town  lies  on  both  banks  of  the  creek,  which  is 
really  its  principal  avenue,  at  all  times  covered  with  junks  and  boats 
plying  back  and  forth,  laden  with  passengers  and  cargo.  Thus  for  a  mile 
this  winding  channel  becomes  the  Venice  of  the  Far  East,  where  noise 
and  confusion  reign  continually.  Among  the  odd  array  of  craft  that 
we  meet,  we  notice  a  great  number  of  flower-barges  moving  sluggishly 
along,  while  many  others  are  moored  at  the  banks.     These  are  conspicuous 


CHINA. 


47 


for  their  profuse  paintings,  elaborate  decorations,  and  gaudy  coverings. 
Everything  about  them  bears  token  of  Oriental  beauty  and  character, 
while  a  peep  inside,  through  one  of  the  silk-curtained  windows  or  doors, 
affords  a  glimpse  of  Eastern  luxury  and  abandonment  to  pleasure. 
Gaily  dressed  youths  and  gaudily  painted  girls  hold  high  revel  here,  while 
men  with  the  frost-marks  of  years  and  women  with  no  greater  charm  than 
paint  are  seen  flitting  to  and  fro  among  the  merry  throng,  dancing,  flirt- 


f 

.  1 

>                1 

1 

/        1 

wf 

^'vC-''    /^■^   .--.i^J^gl 

1 

I   /            1 

1       A                                  M 

^ 

'v^ 

||£r 

^ 

^"^ 

^HR 

m 

PV 

B^ 

m 

1 

^'  "  -,-."._. 

1 

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1 

■Haes^^^^HS 

■i 

Kj^ 

^^ 

^s 

pP 

m 

H 

i^ 

H| 

JUNKS    AND    SLIPPP:U    BOATS,    CANTON. 


ing,  or  whiling  away  the  time  in  frivolous  amusements.  Still  others  are 
languidly  drinking  tea,  smoking  from  silver  pipes,  or  chatting  idle  gossip. 
Besides  these  are  their  close  prototypes,  the  floating  tea  and  nnisic  saloons, 
one  and  all  gay  with  merriment  and  indifferent  to  the  cares  of  life.  Many 
pleasure  boats  en  route  to  the  upper  country  are  to  be  seen  along  the  way. 
In  the  background  we  see  fine  brick  structures,  where  the  native 
merchants  reside,  while  above  them  rise  the  temples  of  worship  with 
faQades   of  sculptured    granite.     In    marked    contrast  to   this   display  of 


wealth  and  power  is  the  large  number  of  dwellings  lifted  on  piles  and 
covering  the  outlying  districts  where  the  common  people  live.  The  city 
has  an  estimated  population  of  two  hundred  thousand  people,  and  it 
extends  for  over  a  mile  along  both  banks  of  the  river. 

At  one  point  we  are  reminded  of  the  famous  fight  made  there  by  the 
doughty  Briton,  Commodore  Keppel,  in  1857.  He  started  in  to  capture 
the  city,  and,  after  repulsing  the  Chinese  in  a  fight  lower  down  the  river, 
pursued  them  into  the  very  midst  of  their  town,  though  his  force  con- 
sisted of  only  seven  small  boats.  Taking  advantage  of  the  narrowness 
of  the  creek  at  this  place,  the  Chinese  formed  a  line  with  their  war- 
craft  like  a  dam  across  the  stream,  and  waited  the  next  move  of  their 
enemy,  confident  of  annihilating  them  should  they  dare  to  attack  them. 
The  assault  followed  swiftly  and  with  terrific  effect.  A  perfect  hail 
storm  of  shot  was  sent  into  the  midst  of  the  foreigners.  The  com- 
modore's boat,  foremost  in  the  action,  was  literally  riddled  into  bits, 
his  coxswain  killed,  and  all  of  his  crew  wounded.  The  gallant  com- 
modore then  ordered  a  retreat  for  reinforcements,  though  not  till  he 
had  captured  five  of  the  largest  Chinese  junks.  The  courage  and  effect- 
ive work  of  the  British  was  a  wonderful  revelation  to  the  Chinese,  who 
were  for  the  first  time  brought  into  actual  battle  with  the  "foreign 
fire-eating  devils." 

In  a  country  abounding  with  fields  of  ripening  barley,  rice-patches, 
and  orchards,  at  the  junction  of  three  waters  called  "  San  Shui,"  we 
find  ourselves  forty  miles  from  Canton.  Upon  listening  to  the  high- 
coloured  accounts  of  the  country  to  the  north,  we  resolve  to  add 
a  little  outside  trip  to  our  itinerary  by  going  up  the  Pei  Kiang  or 
North  Kiver,  before  seeking  China's  famous  city.  Thus  we  soon  find 
ourselves  passing  through  the  finest  district  we  have  yet  found,  the 
scenery  of  which  has  been  compared  with  that  of  Scotland. 

Farther  up  the  river  we  come  to  the  pass  of  Tsing-yune,  noted  for  three 
things  :  its  natural  wonders,  its  monastery,  and  its  burial-ground.  In  the 
last,  thousands  of  graves  dot  the  hillsides  fronting  the  stream,  each  mound 
marked  by  a  faced  stone  cut  in  the  shape  of  a  horseshoe,  or  given  the  ap- 
pearance of  rest  by  the  rounded  back  of  a  chair.  The  pass  itself  has  no 
particular  claim  to  description,  being  simply  an  ordinary  narrowing  of  the 
valley  between  the  two  ranges  of  mountains.     The  noisy  city  by  the  same 


it 


CHINA. 


-19 


name  is  ca  typical  Chinese  town,  where  the  noise  of  gongs  and  crackers 
and  the  odours  of  joss-sticks  predominate.  The  Buddhist  monaster}-  of 
Fi-lai-sz,  however,  deserves  special  mention,  as  being  one  of  the  most 
famous  and  picturesque  institutions  of  its  class  in  Southern  China.  A  hill- 
side set  in  deep  woods  forms  the  background  for  this  quiet  retreat,  which 
is  reached  by  broad  stone  steps  leading  up  from  the  river  bank  to  the 


K.N  1  K.\  \(l.      li 


MAI  1.     IKMI'I.K,    CANTON. 


gate    about   midway   on    the    slope.     The  stranger  is  welcomed  here  by 
the  inscription  in  characters  of  gold,  "  Hioh  Shan  Miau." 

Entering  the  sacred  place  with  feelings  akin  to  awe,  the  visitor  soon 
finds  himself  inside  the  shrine,  before  which  are  grouped  three  graven 
images,  one  of  which  is  supposed  to  be  a  likeness  of  tlie  founder  of  the 
sacred  edifice,  and  the  others  the  effigies  of  its  most  illustrious  patrons. 
The  floor  of  the  cloister  is  laid  in  paving-stones.  The  walls,  that  would 
be  otherwise  dreary  in  appearance,  are   illuminated  with   decorations  in 


bright  colours,  while  large  vases,  ornamented  with  striking  figures  and 
filled  with  fragrant  flowers,  stand  on  the  tables.  Sought  for  its  quiet  and 
delicious  repose,  this  place  has  become  a  favourite  resting-place  for  travel- 
lers up  and  down  the  river.  The  monks  here,  with  a  weakness  for  things 
earthly  rather  than  divine,  lose  no  opportunity  of  appealing  to  these  tran- 
sient comers  to  buy  of  them  carvings  from  the  woods  of  the  mountains, 
or  crooked  and  quaint  walking-sticks  made  from  trees  growing  in  the 
sacred  grove,  or  of  dealing  out  to  the  visitors  with  no  apparent  compunc- 
tion portions  of  opium.  Across  the  river,  in  a  thickly  wooded  dell,  the 
pious  recluses  retire,  whenever  they  desire  to  atone  for  any  errors  of  the 
flesh  by  secluding  themselves  from  the  world  for  awhile,  that  the  spirit  of 
Nirvana  may  return  to  them.  That  they  do  not  leave  behind  all  of  the 
vanities  of  the  world  wdien  they  repair  hither  is  proved  by  the  scent  of 
that  pernicious  instrument  of  deadly  poison,  the  opium  pipe. 

The  scenery  along  this  river  is  varied  and  often  wild  and  lonely,  remind- 
ing us  of  vistas  in  the  Bavarian  foothills.  Now  we  move  at  the  base  of 
hills  rising  with  gradual  ascents  on  either  hand,  their  slopes  smooth  and 
covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  bamboo  and  other  trees ;  anon  these  gentle 
hillsides  are  banded  at  the  foot  by  wdde  belts  of  sand,  as  bare  and  glitter- 
ing as  if  a  slice  had  been  cut  from  the  great  Sahara  or  the  Ol^i  of  the 
North.  These  desert  bands,  reaching  to  the  steep  banks  of  the  river,  finally 
become  a  mile  in  width,  and  the  sun  flings  its  warm  beams  directly  dow^n 
upon  us.  Then  we  begin  to  realise  that  the  valley  is  growing  narrower; 
the  hills  are  drawing  nearer ;  the  barren  belts  become  mere  ropes  of  sand ; 
the  coimtry  grows  wilder  and  more  rugged  in  appearance ;  quite  abruptly 
we  find  ourselves  battling  our  way  between  bold  walls  of  frowning  rocks, 
with  angles,  buttresses,  and  corners  thrust  forbiddingly  into  our  very  path- 
way. Our  progress  seems  suddenly  blocked.  A  curve  in  the  stream  only 
adds  to  the  obstacles  in  our  course.  The  boatmen  seem  oblivious  of  this 
granite  barrier  stopping  our  passage,  as  they  bend  almost  superhuman 
efforts  to  keep  the  craft  from  being  sent  backward  from  whence  we  have 
come,  or  from  being  hurled  upon  the  rocks  thrust  above  the  foaming 
w^aters  in  their  midst. 

We  come  back  this  way,  and  we  shall  never  forget  the  descent  of  the 
passage.  It  is  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  abruptly  enter  between  the 
two  jagged  walls  of  rock  that  lift  their  ragged  breasts  high  into  the  air. 


CHINA. 


51 


The  sun  has  sunk  so  low  in  the  western  sky  that  Httle  light  penetrates 
here,  and  the  gloom  adds  so  greatly  to  the  uncertainty  of  our  wild  surround- 
ings that  we  tremble  for  our  safety.  The  boatmen  —  and  few  boatmen 
of  the  world  can  outdo  these  sons  of  the  rivers  of  China — bend  all  of 
their  energies  toward  keeping  the  light  craft  from  being  shattered  on  the 
gray  heads  stuck  above  the  white  crest  of  the  rapids.  Fortunately  the 
worst  is  speedily  passed,  the  skilful  crew  guide  the  boat  into  safer  waters, 


HOXAM,    OK    '>  sol  111    <-t      lllK    KIN  KK.        CAM  ON. 

and  five  minutes  later  we  are  gliding  gently  along  a  smootli  course  with 
the  pure  sunlight  of  an  Oriental  sky  shedding  its  rare  effulgence  across 
our  pathway.  We  have  made  Mang-Tsz-Hap,  or  "  Blind  Man's  Pass," 
in  safety.  This  rugged  rent  in  the  river-way  is  the  most  rcuiarkablc  in 
the  whole  course  of  our  journey  upon  it. 

Above  this  famous  pass  the  hills  beat  a  hasty  retreat,  as  if  ashamcii  for 
having;  crowded  down  in  this  unceremonious  manner.  But  here  and  there 
some  isolated  limestone  pillars,  that  seemed  to  have  been  belated  in  getting 


away,  remain,  held  firm  and  fast  in  their  solitary  footing  like  Lot's  wife. 
Many  of  these  present  fantastic  figures,  in  which  it  is  easy  to  picture  a 
resemblance  to  a  hiunan  form.  One  of  tliese  is  known  as  the  "  Woman 
that  Weeps,"  and  is  in  reality  a  good  figure  of  a  woman  standing  with 
bowed  form,  with  great  tear-drops  caught  upon  her  cheeks.  If  the  expres- 
sion on  her  countenance  is  any  key  to  her  heart,  she  indeed  weeps  over 

some  great  sorrow 
beyond  the  ken  of 
human  vniderstand- 
ing.  Another  sight 
is  a  happier  one, 
being  the  group  of 
a  family,  —  father, 
mother,  son  and 
daughter,  w^hile  a 
babe  rests  in  the 
mother's  arms. 
Nothing  is  lacking 
but  the  divine  spark 
of  life  to  make  this 
picture  perfect. 

From  the  moun- 
tains one  looks 
down  upon  miles  of 
cultivated  p  1  a  i  n  s , 
which  bear  some 
resemblance  to  the 
meadows  of  Japan 
seen  on  the  road 
from  Tokyo  to  Nilvko.  Here,  as  there,  the  country  is  cut  up  into  small 
fields,  and  embankments  are  raised  around  them  for  the  purpose  of  irriga- 
tion in  the  growing  season.  Beyond  the  lowlands  rise  scattered  hills,  with 
rounded  crests,  on  nearly  all  of  which  stand,  under  groves  of  evergreen 
trees,  temples  dedicated  to  religious  personages,  while  still  farther  away, 
looking  in  the  distance  like  emerald  seas,  forests  of  green  bamboo  lift 
their  feathery  plumage  to  the  horizon. 


GROTESQUE    ROCK    (  AltVIXG; 


CHINA.  53 

The  bamboo  is  common  all  over  China,  and,  as  in  the  Philippines,  is  a 
tree  of  great  value  as  well  as  beauty.  Raised  with  no  care  or  tillage,  it  is 
a  source  of  income,  so  that  in  this  region  frequently  a  husbandman's  finan- 
cial standing  is  estimated  by  his  clumps  of  bamboo.  This,  it  is  claimed, 
with  rice,  will  supply  all  the  demands  of  a  Chinaman.  In  the  first  place, 
the  humble  dweller  seeks  to  protect  himself  from  the  hot  suns  of  summer 
and  the  cold  winds  of  winter  by  encircling  his  home  with  a  hedge  of  this 
growth,  the  pale  green  foliage  making  a  rich  setting  for  his  abode.  The 
house  itself  can  be  and  often  is  built  entirely  of  its  branches  and  stocks, 
and  thatched  with  its  foliage.  The  owner  proceeds  to  make  his  household 
utensils,  his  chairs,  couches,  tables,  water-cans,  drinking  jugs,  measures, 
fans,  flutes,  and  even  the  looms  upon  which  he  weaves  the  silken  fabrics 
for  which  he  is  noted.  His  water-proof  coat  and  hat  are  both  made  of  its 
leaves,  overlapping  like  the  scales  of  a  fish.  His  wine-cups,  water-ladles, 
pipe,  and  chop-sticks  come  from  the  same  source.  So  do  his  pens  and 
paper.  His  cradle  was  a  bamboo  basket,  and  as  he  started  out  in  life  sur- 
rounded by  his  favourite  wood,  so  his  hope,  when  he  has  ended  his  earthly 
career,  will  be  to  rest  under  the  bamboo  brakes  on  some  sunny  hillside. 
The  bamboo  has  a  religious  signification,  and  is  treasured  by  the  pious 
followers  of  Buddha.  The  avenues  leading  to  the  temples  are  often  shaded 
by  the  luxuriant  foliage  of  rows  of  bamboo,  while,  inside,  the  courts  are 
fanned  and  made  cool  and  fragrant  by  its  waving  plumes.  On  strips  of 
bamboo  the  ancient  authors  cut  the  Buddhist  classics,  and  the  stems  of  this 
wood  served  to  make  the  divination  sticks  and  the  covering  for  them. 

After  the  harvest  season,  the  farmers  in  this  vicinity,  if  tlie  crops  have 
been  good,  are  wont  to  gather  in  bodies  to  offer  praises  to  the  god  of  agri- 
culture for  his  beneficence.  The  grain,  already  stacked  in  the  farm-yards, 
is  threshed  out  by  flails  or  beaten  out  by  the  steady  tread  of  the  oxen  let 
in  upon  it.  The  Chinese  have  always  been  patient,  industrious  farmers, 
knowing  well  that  one's  land,  to  yield  crop  after  crop,  nuist  l)e  fed  as  well 
as  his  ox  or  ass,  and  they  have  tilled  it  with  this  understanding  so  well 
that  they  are  able  to  get  two  crops  each  year,  and  in  some  sections  more, 
from  the  same  plot.  These  are  known  as  the  green  crop  and  the  grain 
crop. 

In  Japan  we  saw  many  graven  images  of  the  goddess  of  mercy,  the 
good  Kwannon,  and  to-day  we  see  China's  noted  goddess  of  nature  and 


merciful  love  amid  surroundings  and  storied  fame  in  keeping  with  her 
wonderful  presence.  Her  temple  here,  instead  of  having  been  raised  by 
mortal  hands,  is  one  designed  and  perfected  by  a  power  nobler  than  man's. 
It  is  a  natural  grotto  at  the  foot  of  a  limestone  cliff,  which  rears  its  bsld 
front  high  into  the  air,  while  the  grand  old  North  River,  not  yet  grown 
to  the  dignity  of  its  lower  course,  winds  its  way  along  the  base  of  the  cliff 
with  merry  songs.     The  entrance  to  this  sacred  retreat  is  near  the  water's 


SOUTUEllX    SIDE    OX     ISLAND    OF    I'OOTOO. 


edge,  and  is  made  by  the  ascent  of  a  flight  of  granite  steps.  Within  the 
strange  temple,  sculptured  by  no  mortal  hand,  the  goddess  sits  upon  her 
throne,  a  huge  lotus  flower.  What  if  the  geologist  says  the  image  and 
flowers,  the  goddess  and  her  throne,  are  the  mighty  fossils  of  rock  and 
lotus !  we  have  Buddha's  word  against  man's,  that  the  figure  upon  which 
you  gaze  was  once  a  living,  human  being. 

The  history  of  this  goddess  is  romantically  told  in  legends  of  Buddha, 
and  not  always  alike.  She  was  the  child  of  a  peasant  woman,  and  was 
born  many  ages  ago,  but  not  visible  to  the  mortal  eye  until  seen  by  the 


CHINA.  55 

Emperor  Miao-Chwang,  who  adopted  her  as  his  daughter.  She  grew  up 
to  be  very  beautiful,  and  as  soon  as  she  had  reached  an  age  when  the 
emperor  deemed  it  time  for  her  to  wed,  she  declined  the  husband 
selected  for  her.  In  vain  Miao-Chwang  besought  and  commanded.  Deter- 
mined to  have  his  way,  the  emperor  condemned  her  to  menial  labour 
until  she  should  relent.  Finding  this  had  no  effect,  he  ordered  her  to  be 
put  to  death,  a  threat  which  Avas  carried  out  without  causing  her  to  yield. 
"With  the  ending  of  her  brief  earthly  career  she  entered  upon  a  higher 
sphere  in  the  spirit  world.  For  the  good  of  man  she  went  into  Hades, 
where  she  displayed  such  rare  qualities  of  goodness  and  devotion  to  duty, 
that  the  wicked  fled  from  her,  the  grim  executioner  threw  aside  his  blood- 
stained weapons  of  life  destruction,  and  the  sin-cursed  washed  of  their 
stains,  the  abode  of  evil  became  the  abiding-place  of  the  peaceful  and 
happy.  Her  work  accomplished  here,  the  goddess  returned  to  earth,  to 
take  up  her  abode  in  the  grotto  of  North  River,  and  from  her  lotus  throne 
she  looks  down  upon  her  worshippers  with  a  gracious  smile  and  loving 
care. 

A  little  band  of  priests  dwells  constantly  in  an  upper  apartment  of  the 
cave,  which  it  must  be  said  has  been  given  some  finishing  touches  by 
the  hand  of  man.  For  a  small  sum  these  aged  ministers  show  us  over  the^ 
place  that  has  little  else  to  attract.  Upon  shelves  and  in  crevices  in  the 
wall  several  small  idols,  each  with  a  taper  kept  constanth^  burning  before 
it,  keep  company  with  Kwannon  in  her  long  and  lonely  vigil.  The  priests 
are  aged  and  bent  with  the  burden  of  years,  looking  far  from  healthy  ; 
the  goddess  is  sadly  in  need  of  j^liysical  repairs,  and  the  fairest,  prettiest 
picture  of  the  secluded  place  is  the  flock  of  milk-white  doves  that  have 
their  homes  in  the  niches  of  the  rock-wall.  Frightened  at  oiu'  appearance, 
they  flutter  about  our  heads,  until,  growing  bolder,  one  after  another 
lights  upon  our  extended  hands  and  shoulders. 


FAT-EE,    OPPOSITE    SHAMEEN,     CANTON. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

MODERN    CANTON. 

THE  grotto  of  the  goddess  of  mercy  is  about  150  miles  north  of 
San  Shui,  the  "  Three  Waters,"  which  in  turn  is  forty  miles  from 
Canton,  the  London  of  China,  with  its  estimated  population  of 
three  millions,  and  its  din  and  confusion,  which  is  beyond  estimation. 
This  city  lies  about  ninety  miles,  a  little  west  of  north,  from  Hong-kong. 
Between  the  two  cities  steamers  built  upon  the  American  plan  ply  regu- 
larly, making  the  passage  ''  between  suns." 

Many  have  tried,  but  none  have  fully  succeeded  in  describing  the 
clamour  and  uproar  arising  from  the  multitude  of  boats  battling  fiercely 
for  first  place  at  the  steamer's  side,  the  shrill-voiced  demands  of  the 
innumerable  boat-women  screaming  over  some  fancied  wrong,  the  howls 
of  the  coolies,  and  the  distant  rumbling  of  the  great  city's  trafiic  and 
tumult  which  comes  down  to  the  river  shore  like  the  mutterings  of  peal 
upon  peal  of  thunder,  crash  following  crash  with  a  rapidity  which  makes 


CHIXA. 


57 


them  blend  as  one.  As  many  as  eighty-five  thousand  boats  have  been 
registered  by  the  city  government,  a  large  percentage  of  them  being  man- 
aged by  women  and  children.  These  become  very  adept  in  the  calling, 
and  boat  life  here,  as  elsewhere  in  China,  is  an  important  feature.  We 
see  here  in  a  larger  way  what  we  witnessed  at  Hong-kong,  the  phase  of 
life  upon  the  water.     Here  thousands  upon  thousands  of  people  are  born. 


SLlI'l'Ki:    BOATS,    CANTON. 


marry,  live,  and  die,  without  mingling  witli  tlie  population  of  the  earth. 
The  boats,  which  constitute  their  homes,  are  to  be  seen  along  the  river 
banks  for  miles,  and  in  the  great  system  of  creeks  indenting  the  vast  city. 
This  life  has  the  advantage  of  being  safe  from  fire  and  free  from  rent,  and 
the  occupant  who  does  not  like  his  neighl)Our  has  only  to  wciuh  anchor 
and  float  to  some  more  desirable  quarter. 

This  city,  which  for  a  long  time  was  the  only  port  in  the  vast  empire 
of  China  known  to  foreigners,  is  at  the  head  of  the  Kwangtung  province, 


and  it  has  a  most  checkered  history,  beginning  in  obscurity  and  ending 
in  confusion.  The  first  intelhgent  mention  of  the  province  is  found  in 
the  writings  of  the  historians  of  the  Chow  dynasty,  b.  c.  1122.  But  it 
had  no  communication  with  the  outside  world  until  after  the  introduction 
of  Buddhism,  when  some  religious  devotees  opened  intercourse  with  India 
in  the  early  part  of  the  fifth  century.  The  two  empires  soon  afterward 
entered  into  a  commercial  relation  which  existed  for  centuries,  though 
about  two  hundred  years  ago  it  became  confined  to  Canton  alone. 
Recently  this  field  has  been  broadened. 

The  stranger  who  wishes  to  see  the  great  city  pays  the  bearers  of  a 
sedan-chair  to  take  him  wherever  he  wishes,  or,  if  he  be  wise,  he  will  let 
them  choose  his  route,  when  he  will  be  borne  perhaps  in  a  procession 
with  many  others  sightseeing  like  himself.  One  after  another  of  the 
most  noted  features  of  the  town  is  reviewed.  Now  it  is  the  w^ater  clock 
in  the  temple  on  the  walls,  by  which  the  ofiicial  time  is  marked;  and 
now  it  is  the  Temple  of  Five  Hundred  Genii,  with  its  wonder  tales  and 
curious  graven  images  expressive  of  the  many  attributes  of  life,  good 
and  evil.  Here  is  to  be  seen  a  reputed  statue  of  the  celebrated  Venetian 
traveller,  Marco  Polo,  a  grotesque  sort  of  hero  grinning  from  beneath  a 
huge  sailor  hat  of  tarpaulin.  This  place,  known  to  the  Chinese  under 
the  poetical  title  of  Flowery  Forest  Monastery,  is  constantly  guarded, 
and  he  who  enters  must  obtain  special  permission  to  do  so.  The  Temple 
of  Horrors,  a  living  picture  of  the  Buddhist  Hades,  whose  courtyards 
beggars  and  fortune-tellers  seem  to  choose  as  their  most  fitting  retreat, 
claims  but  passing  attention.  Here  are  portrayed  the  various  punish- 
ments accorded  to  the  wicked,  the  flaying  alive,  the  hewing  into  bits, 
the  burning  in  oil,  the  beheading,  the  sawing  in  twain,  and  dozens  of 
other  forms  of  inhuman  treatment,  which  it  is  as  well  not  to  mention.  In 
close  proximity  to  this  spot  of  hideous  worship,  we  come  upon  a  strange 
medley  of  shops  and  warerooms  of  goods  known  and  unknown,  —  more  of 
the  last  named,  —  entire  streets  of  jewelry  dealers  and  silk  merchants, 
dens  of  thieves  and  caves  of  gold-beaters,  shoe  shops,  cabinet  shops, 
meat  and  cook  shops,  where  unheard-of  scents  fill  the  air,  and  cooking 
attracts,  but  does  not  tempt,  the  sightseer.  Chinese  theatres  are  often 
seen,  while  dealers  in  wardrobes  and  make-ups  for  the  profession  are 
numerous  in  a  section  that  seems  to  be  set  apart  for  them.     Dealers  in 


CHINA. 


59 


cast-off  clothing  are  common,  while  curio  and  pawn  shops  are  still  more 
plentiful.  On  the  bank  of  a  tributarj-  stream  stands  a  temple  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  noted  Governor  Yeh,  who  was  carried  prisoner  to 
Calcutta  by  the  British  during  their  trouble  with  China  in  1857. 

In  the  vicinity  of  tlie  Temple  of  Five  Hundred  Genii  is  to  be  seen  the 
ruin  of  a  former  grand  marble  structure  known  as  the  Flowery  Pagoda. 
In   this    section,  too,  is  the  magistrate's  court,  the  spot  in   all   Canton 


I'KKSKUN  IN(i     (ilM.KU     IN     .-^^Ul^ 


most  dreaded  by  its  })o})ulati()ii.  Few  indeed  are  those  who  can  endure 
the  tortures  and  punishments  which  lie  next  door  to  tliat  still  more  lior- 
rible  place,  the  execution  ground,  known  In'  tin-  rows  of  potters'  jars 
waiting  to  receive  the  head  of  some  hapless  victim,  as  well  as  by 
the  miserable  creatures  grovelling  in  filth  and  raus,  while  awaiting  the 
finishing  act  in  this  terrible  farce  of  justice.  Despite  the  shudder  of 
horror  at  the  sight  of  the  half-starved  wretches  begging,  it  may  be  with 
their  last  breath,  for  the  stranger  to  give  them  money  with  which  to  buy 


rice,  freedom,  or  the  means  to  gamble  with  their  jailers,  the  feeling  of 
relief  at  the  small  number  there  affords  a  ray  of  satisfaction.  In  a  city 
of  three  million  souls  the  number  of  criminals,  as  shown  here,  is  remark- 
ably  small.  Across  the  city  we  see  what  is  of  far  more  interest  and 
pleasure  to  us,  the  old  English  yamen,  which  was  the  abode  of  the  first 
foreign  legation  in  1842. 

We  find  the  shopkeepers  located  by  themselves,  and   on  most  excel- 


VIEW    ON    THE    FOREIGX    BUXD,    CANTOX. 


lent  terms  with  their  neighbours  and  customers.  The  proprietor,  who 
may  be  a  gentleman  of  means  and  refinement,  speaks  English,  is  attired 
in  a  jacket  of  Shantang  silk,  breeches  of  dark  crape,  white  leggings,  and 
shoes  of  embroidered  velvet,  meets  his  customer  at  the  door,  and  parts 
with  him  when  his  call  is  over  with  the  same  urbanity  whether  he  makes 
a  big  purchase  or  goes  away  empty-handed.  He  is  assisted  by  men  dis- 
playing equal  care  and  taste,  whose  places  are  behind  ebony  counters 
surmounted  by  glass  cases  filled,  it  may  be,  with  rare  curiosities,  artis- 


CHINA. 


61 


tically  arranged  to  catch  the  eye.  Everything  in  the  shop  is  labelled,  and 
the  price  marked  plainly  upon  it,  whether  it  be  a  roll  of  silk  or  a  square 
of  grass  matting.  If  the  shop  occupies  two  stories,  as  many  of  them  do, 
the  second  floor  is  given  up  to  a  display  of  rich  bronzes,  porcelain,  ebony 
furniture,  and  lacquered  ware.  The  business  in  the  markets  of  the 
Chinese  sections  is  generally  completed  by  seven  in  the  morning. 

The  streets  of  Canton  are  narrow.     The  law  savs  thev  shall  not  be  less 


BKll>(..fc.     lu     lUK    XAHVK    (  I  IY.    I   anion. 


than  seven  feet,  but  the  law  and  the  narrow  lanes  overhung  witli  luaiti'd 
awnings  often  come  into  intimate  association.  Along  lhe?*i^  crDDked  pas- 
sageways, black,  gold,  or  vermilion  sign-boards  hang  in  "lose  pi-oxiniity, 
many  of  them  giving  a  picturesque  aspect  to  the  crowded  scene  Ijy  their 
inscription  in  Roman  characters  along  with  others  in  Chinese.  These  are 
in  constant  danger  of  contact  with  the  surging  mob  continually  passing 
here.  Two  chairs  cannot  pass  each  other  without  careful  manipulation  on 
the  part  of  the  bearers,  and  in  turning  the  f-equent  corners  the  long  poles 


have  to  be  thrust  into  tlie  front  of  some  shop.  In  case  the  approaching 
chair  is  that  of  a  mandarin,  you  are  dumped  hastily  into  the  most  conve- 
nient shop,  hicky  if  you  escape  without  a  serious  bump  or  tight  squeeze. 
Canton  affords  the  best  example  of  Chinese  life  to  be  found  in  the  empire, 
the  foreigners  living  apart  in  a  settlement  of  their  own.  Says  Miss  Scid- 
more :  "  This  seeing  the  sights  of  Canton  is  a  most  bewildering,  dazing, 
fatiguing  day.  When  it  is  over  and  the  boat  slips  down  the  river,  past 
the  French  cathedral  and  the  busy  Whampoa  anchorage,  out  between  the 
quiet  and  level  fields,  one  can  hardly  remember  all  the  scenes.  But  he 
dreams  of  this  city  of  Oriental  riches  and  barbaric  splendour,  the  city  of 
the  greatest  wealth  and  the  direst  poverty,  and  he  sees  again  the  narrow, 
seething  thoroughfares,  the  blaze  of  gold  and  vermilion,  the  glitter  and 
glow  of  showy  exteriors,  where,  if  the  Queen  of  Sheba  did  not  live,  she 
certainly  went  a-shopping." 

In  the  display  of  their  goods  and  the  filling  of  their  shops  with  a  bewil- 
dering array,  the  Chinese  show  a  characteristic  the  opposite  of  the  Japa- 
nese, who  seem  loath  to  show  their  goods  and  ashamed  to  acknowledge 
their  business.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the  trading  class  until  recently 
has  failed  to  receive  social  recognition  in  Japan.  But  in  China  it  is  dif- 
ferent. The  shopkeepers  are  among  the  best  of  her  citizens,  and  as  a  rule 
they  are  pleasant  and  prosperous. 

In  an  exceedingly  narrow  street,  filled  with  miserable  hovels,  whose 
roofs  fairly  touch  over  our  heads,  we  find  ourselves  in  one  of  the  manufac- 
turing centres  of  this  Manchester  of  China.  Here  everything  is  produced, 
from  the  simplest  novelty  to  the  finest  embroidered  satin  robe.  From  this 
section  of  Canton,  and  others  like  it,  come  those  beautifully  embroidered 
and  woven  articles  that  we  see  in  our  market  at  home,  all  done  by  hand, 
and  often  calling  for  many  days  of  patient  and  skilful  work.  Yet  they 
are  sold  here  at  prices  defying  the  competition  of  machinery.  It  is  the 
choice  of  the  labourers  that  machinery  has  not  been  introduced  into  China, 
and  not  long  since  a  riot  was  barely  averted  when  an  enterprising  manu- 
facturer undertook  to  place  foreign  machines  in  his  shop.  Though 
working  through  long  days  at  a  mere  pittance,  these  operatives  show 
remarkable  skill  and  cheerfulness.  Mr.  Thomson,  who  paid  several  visits 
to  one  of  these  places,  says :  "  I  like  to  linger  here  and  to  meditate  on 
these  scenes  of  ceaseless  industry,  where  all  goes  on  with  a  quiet  harmony 


CHINA. 


63 


that  has  a  strange  fascination  for  the  observer.  Amid  all  the  evidences  of 
toil,  the  poorest  has  some  leisure  at  his  command  ;  then,  seated  on  a 
bench,  or  squatting  tranquilly  on  the  ground,  he  will  smoke  or  chat  with  a 
neighbour,  untroubled  by  the  presence  of  his  employer,  who  seems  to  grow 
fatter  and  wealthier  on  the  smiles  and  happy  temperament  of  his  work- 
men.    Here,  too,  one  can  see  how  the  nucleus  of  this  great  city  is  more 


AX    ANCIF.NT    TEMPLE,    CANTON. 


closely  populated  than  at  first  sight  one  would  suppose.  Most  of  the 
workshops  are  kitchen,  dining-room,  and  bedroom,  too;  here  the  wurk- 
people  breakfast  on  their  benches ;  here  at  nightfall  they  stretch  them- 
selves out  to  sleep.  Their  whole  worldly  wealth  is  stored  here,  too.  An 
extra  jacket,  a  pipe,  a  few  ornaments  which  are  us(m1  in  common,  and  a 
pair  of  chop-sticks,  —  these  make  up  each  man's  total  worldly  pelf;  and, 
indeed,  his  greatest  treasure  he  carries  with  him,  —  a  stock  of  health  and 
a  contented   mind.     The  Chinese   operative   is   completely   content    if   he 


escapes  the  pangs  of  hunger,  endowed  with  health  sufficient  simply  to 
enjoy  the  sense  of  living,  and  of  living,  too,  in  a  land  so  perfect  that  a 
human  being  ought  to  be  happy  in  the  privilege  of  living  there  at  all.  It 
is  a  land,  so  they  seem  to  suppose,  wherein  everything  is  settled  and 
ordered  by  men  who  know  exactly  what  they  ought  to  know,  and  who  are 
paid  to  keep  people  from  rising  or  ambitiously  seeking  to  quit  the  groove 
in  which  Providence  placed  them  at  their  birth."  By  this  it  must  not  be 
understood  that  all  Chinese  are  devoid  of  ambition,  or  desire  to  live 
in  ignorance  and  hopeless  toil  all  their  lives.  There  are  parents  who 
seek  to  educate  their  children,  and  wdio  look  forward  to  the  time  when 
they  may  dignify  their  families  by  becoming  a  member  of  the  Imperial 
Cabinet,  and  who  themselves  thirst  after  the  power  and  glory  that 
comes  from  great  wealth  and  political  prestige.  Singularly  enough, 
next  to  the  humble,  ignorant  toiler,  the  educated  men  are  those  who 
help  keep  in  servile  bondage  as  bad  as  any  slavery  the  great  working 
mass. 

The  stranger  cannot  fail  to  note  the  marked  difference  in  the  appear- 
ance of  different  parts  of  the  city.  One  radically  different  from  those 
described  is  that  quarter  populated  by  the  descendants  of  the  Tartar 
captors  of  the  city  during  the  fifteenth  century.  The  indifference  toward 
the  pursuits  of  peaceful  life  is  evident  in  the  decay  and  shabbiness  of  the 
low-walled  dwellings,  which  show  a  painful  monotony  in  their  construction. 
With  the  fading  of  the  glory  of  arms  has  vanished  the  prosperity  of  its 
inheritors.  Their  more  enterprising  neighbours,  whose  ancestors  had  been 
the  victims  of  the  prowess  of  their  forefathers,  have  bought,  reclaimed 
and  rejuvenated  some  of  the  houses  falling  into  ruins ;  Mdiile  here  and 
there  the  many-storied  pagoda  and  lofty  temple,  wdth  its  gilded  roof  show- 
ing conspicuously  above  the  tops  of  the  ancient  trees,  or  the  imposing 
edifices  built  of  gray  bricks,  which  upon  closer  inspection  prove  to  be  not 
shrines  of  divine  worship  but  of  the  worship  of  Mammon,  the  Chinese 
pawn-shop  and  money  lender's  establishment,  relieve  the  dreariness  of  the 
picture.  But  the  j^roud  Tartar,  too  ambitious  to  descend  to  the  menial 
calling  of  a  trader,  remains  a  sad  relic  of  former  grandeur. 

At  an  elevated  place  called  "  The  Heights,"  where  a  fine  view  of  the 
city  to  the  south  is  obtained,  the  visitor  comes  upon  one  of  the  prettiest 
deer  parks   to  be   found    in   China.     In   close    proximity  rise  the   dark, 


CHINA. 


65 


irregular  walls  of  an  old  pagoda  said  to  have  been  built  under  the  reign 
of  Emperor  Wu-Ti,  in  the  first  part  of  the  sixth  century.  It  has  the 
famous  nine  stories,  and  is  about  175  feet  in  height.  The  tin-chai 
relates  a  thrilling  storj  of  a  party  of  British  sailors,  who,  getting  tired 
of  the  tameness  of  life  on  shore,  sought  to  make  it  more  lively  by 
ascending  the  odd-looking,  octagonal  column,  which  tliey  did  hand  over 


VIEW    FROM     FOKKIGX    QfAIilKK.    CANTON. 


hand,  as  they  would  have  climbed  a  ship's  mast.  The  strange  spectacle 
quickly  called  about  the  spot  a  cro^vd  of  Chinese  whose  curiosity  soon  gave 
way  to  anger  as  tliey  looked  upon  this  desecration  of  their  sacred  edifice 
by  these  fail  kuei,  oi  "foreign  devils."  Before  the  daring  sailors  were 
aware  of  their  danger  the  whole  space  at  the  foot  of  the  pagoda  was  filled 
by  a  howling,  maddened  mob,  which  threatened  to  tear  them  limb  from 
limb  the  moment  they  should  descend.  While  they  were  trj-ing  to  devise 
some  way  of  escape  their  comrades  on  shipboard  came  to  their  rescue, 


putting  the   crowd  to  flight,    though  not  until  they  had    brought   their 
firearms  to  bear  upon  the  Chinese. 

It  is  in  Canton  that  one  sees  the  celebrated  gardens  of  Fatee,  where 
landscape  gardening  on  a  small  scale  is  so  well  represented.  In  this 
nursery  for  shrubs,  flowers  and  trees  of  rare  species  are  cultivated.  A 
place  which  affords  a  more  pleasing  contrast  to  the  manufactories  of  the 


BOAT    LANDING,    CANTON. 


alleys  and  the  crowded  shops  of  trade,  the  dilapidated  homes  of  the  degen- 
erate Tartars  and  the  humble  dwellings  of  the  toiling  masses,  is  the  public 
garden,  where  we  come  nearer  to  China  as  she  has  been  pictured  to  uSc 
This  typical  spot  is  enclosed  by  a  deep-set  wall,  and  we  enter  through  a 
high  gate  under  the  shadows  of  a  three-storied  pagoda.  We  quickly  find 
ourselves  in  a  cool,  shady,  secluded  retreat,  the  brightness  of  which  is 
somewhat  dimmed  by  the  resemblance  which  it  bears  to  an  American  grave- 
yard.    On  our  right  we  see  the  mournful  drooping  willow  so  often  stand- 


CHINA. 


67 


ing  at  the  entrance  to  some  burial-plot  in  onr  native  land,  while  an  air  of 
solemnity  and  sacredness  seems  to  hang  over  the  scene.  But  we  soon 
overcome  the  feeling  of  sadness,  and,  advancing  along  a  twisting  path,  find 
ourselves  upon  the  margin  of  a  lotus  pool,  where  bright-hued  barges  float 
dreamily  to  the  farther  side.  On  our  left  the  patli  winds  over  a  willow 
bridge  spanning  an  Elysian  sheet  of  water,  in  which  a  couple  of  birds  with 


EARTHEN    WATER -JAKS,    CA.NTUN. 


beautiful  plumage  and  high,  graceful  necks,  are  swiniuiiiii;-  lazily  to  and 
fro.  Everything  about  the  rare  retreat  bears  a  sluggisli.  drcainy  air.  pos- 
sessing the  peculiar  and  not  altogether  unpleasant  power  to  make  (inc  tar- 
get the  world,  and  even  himself.  Movinu"  slowly  along,  —  it  would  be  out 
of  harmony  to  move  rapidly,  —  one  soon  becomes  used  to  stumbling  upon 
cunningly  contrived  bowers,  or  along  archways  overhung  with  mossy  tes- 
toons,  or  along  the  margin  of  a  sparkling  lakelet,  made  bright  by  a  myriad 
of  darting  goldfish,  and  where  a  grave  frog  sits  complacently  on  a  lotus  leaf, 


blinking  dumbly  in  the  sunshine,  as  he  gazes  with  bleared  eyes  upon  the 
intruder.  We  are  in  fairyland,  the  same  which  we  saw  pictured  so  often 
in  our  boyhood  on  the  chinaware  our  mother  prized  so  highly.  It  was 
all  there  ;  it  is  all  here.  The  idea  is  encouraged  by  the  soft  notes  of  a 
flute  borne  to  our  ears  from  the  distance.  Then  the  spell  is  rudely  broken 
by  the  shrill  notes  of  a  voice  more  lusty  than  musical,  and  we  move  on  to 
come  out  upon  an  open-air  saloon,  where  a  party  of  natives  is  partaking 
of  a  light  repast  of  cake  and  tea,  while  they  chat  over  the  latest  gossip. 

Aside  from  these  pretty  retreats  and  other  attractions,  which  are  rather 
curiosities  than  added  beauties,  there  are  many  features  about  Canton  dis- 
agreeable to  the  traveller.  None  of  these  narrow,  crooked  streets,  over- 
topped by  roofs,  encroached  upon  by  business,  has  a  system  either  of 
proper  drainage  or  of  modern  lighting ;  while  the  water-supply  obtained 
from  the  river,  and  of  a  quality  unfit  for  a  Western  palate,  is  brought  into 
the  city  by  the  primitive  method  of  the  generations  who  existed  before  . 
written  history.  Everywhere  one  sees  dirt  and  disgusting  filth,  until  he 
wonders  not  at  the  origin  of  disease  here,  but  at  the  fact  that  the  people 
live  and  flourish  as  they  do.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the  bubonic 
plague  of  1894  started  here,  and  gained  such  a  headway  that  the  only  way 
to  estimate  the  number  of  the  dead  was  by  the  records  kept  of  the  coffins 
taken  through  the  gates  of  the  city  to  the  burial-grounds  outside. 
Throughout  this  terrible  epidemic,  when  it  would  seem  that  the  survivors 
must  awaken  to  some  sense  of  the  necessity  for  resistance  or  for  proper 
safeguard,  no  attempt  of  a  sanitary  nature  was  made  to  check  the  pesti- 
lence, while  the  demon  of  disease  continued  to  strike  its  deadly  blows, 
desolating  the  homes  of  the  city  and  peopling  the  graveyard  out  on  the . 
plains  at  the  rate  of  hundreds  a  day. 

The  foreign  population  of  Canton  is  collected  on  the  island  of  Shameen, 
which  is  reached  by  a  bridge  that  has  a  closed  gate  and  guards.  Until 
recently  there  was  no  hotel  to  accommodate  foreigners,  and  newcomers  must 
content  themselves  with  remaining  on  shipboard.  But  this  is  not  so  now, 
and  the  stranger  finds  himself  met  in  a  spirit  of  friendliness,  while 
surrounded  by  a  scene  of  Arcadian  beauty. 

Official  residences  of  foreigners  are  denominated  yamens,  and  are  sur- 
rounded by  walls,  with  a  huge  gateway  at  the  entrance,  and  a  series  of 
rambling  buildings  in  the  background.     The  avenue  leading  to  this  enclosed 


CHINA. 


69 


residence  may  be  bordered  by  noble  old  trees,  and  the  dwelling  raised 
above  a  terrace  paved  with  flags.  A  common  and  pretty  adjunct  to  the 
yamen  is  a  deer  park  at  the  rear  of  the  buildings,  set  with  thick  woods 
where  the  sportive  creatures  can  find  easy  ambush  whenever  a  stranger 
appears  on  the  grounds.  At  every  yamen  in  China  stands  a  small  gong 
called  the  "  Cymbal  of  the  Oppressed,"  which  is  to  be  sounded  by  a  victim 


POTTERY    YARD,    CANTON. 


oppressed  by  any  wrong.     This  custom  has,  however,  fallen  into  disuse  of 
late  years. 

Until  lately  it  has  been  the  opinion  of  Europeans  and  Americans  that 
the  cities  of  China  were  densely  populated,  and  accordingly  the  statisticians 
have  credited  those  places  with  numbers  of  people  far  in  excess  of  the 
actual  facts.  Canton  is  not  as  densely  populated  as  many  ])arts  of  Lon- 
don, or  even  as  our  own  New  York.  In  the  central  j)urlion  is  a  district 
which  at  first  gives  the  foreigner  the  impression  that  he  is  in  one  of  the 
great  beehives  of  huriianity,  but  almost  before  he  knows  it  he  has  passed 


outside  of  this  territory,  and  finds  scattered  about  him  extensive  parks, 
ponds,  parade-grounds  for  military  bodies,  and  even  rice-fields.  Beyond 
these  are  the  clustered  suburbs  relieved  by  the  open  spaces  and  gardens 
belonging  to  the  residences  of  the  officials,  avenues  shaded  by  aged  trees, 
and  orchards  teeming  with  fruit  in  its  season.  Upon  the  whole,  in  spite 
of  the  broad  area  of  tiled  roofs,  and  the  plains  thickly  lined  with  their 
miniature  houses  of  the  dead,  the  panorama  of  the  city,  as  seen  from  the 
old  city  walls,  whose  neglected  armaments  and  grass-grown  sides  no  longer 
afford  a  barrier  against  enemies  or  a  boundary  for  its  people,  conveys  but 
slight  indication  of  the  density  of  population  we  had  expected.  The  city 
proper  contains  an  area  a  little  in  excess  of  six  miles,  and,  taken  in  con- 
junction with  the  outlying  sections  which  extend  far  to  the  right  and  left 
out  over  the  plains,  contains  probably  two  million  inhabitants,  possibly 
not  as  many ;  it  is  credited,  however,  with  a  population  greatly  exceeding 
that. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

ALOTS'G   WEST    RIVER. 

FROM  the  sights  and  scenes  of  Canton  we  turn  westward  to  begin 
our  inland  journey  toward  the  vast  Tibetan  plateau  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Kokonor.  We  are  told  that  the  Si  Kiang,  or  West  River, 
has  just  been  opened  (1898)  as  far  as  Wnchau,  near  the  junction  of 
Fuho,  or  Kwei  River,  so  that  steamers  from  Hong-kong  make  three 
trips  a  week,  carrying  passengers  and  produce.  If  we  should  take 
passage  on  a  steamer  as  far  as  that  important  place  of  inland  com- 
merce, we  should  then  be  obliged  to  change  to  one  of  the  river  boats 
that  go  as  far  as  the  stream  is  navigable  for  these  craft  built  especially 
for  the  purpose.  We  learn  that  one  of  these  is  about  to  start  for  Po-se, 
at  the  headwaters  of  the  southern  branch  of  West  River,  and  we  resolve 
to  start  as  we  shall  have  to  end,  where  we  begin  our  trip  across  the 
interior  on  foot  or  by  horse. 

This  part  of  China  has  three  routes  of  trade,  but  this  is  the  natural 
waterway,  though,  until  recently,  no  effort  has  been  made  to  develop  it 
as  it  deserves.  For  that  reason  much  of  the  trade  and  business  has 
gone  to  the  routes  of  the  French  on  the  Gulf  of  Tongking,  northward 
to  Lungchau,  or  by  Red  River  to  Laokai  and  Mengtse  farther  west. 
But  as  soon  as  the  spirit  of  improvement  and  the  introduction  of 
modern  ways  of  travel  get  started  in  China,  a  remarkable  transforma- 
tion will  take  place.  We  see  this  illustrated  in  a  small  way  by  the 
rapid  displacement  of  the  sedan-chair  by  the  jinrikisha  of  Japan, 
though  this  is  but  a  straw  in  the  current  of  events  that  is  sluiping 
the  future  of  the  Middle  Kingdom. 

Our  course  will  take  us  through  that  ancient  wonderland  known  as 
Chryse,  which  Col.  Henry  Yule,  who  has  been  considered  an  authority 
on  the  subject,  says  "  is  a  literal  version  of  the  Sanskrit  Suvarnabhumi, 
or  '^  Golden  Land,'  applied  in  ancient  India  to  Indo-Chinese  regions.  Of 
course,  where  there  is  no  accurate  knowledge,  the  application  of  terms 


must  be  vague.  It  would  be  difficult  to  define  where  Ptolemy's  Chrys^ 
{ChrysS  sho  aut  Cliryse  Chersonnesus)  terminated  eastward,  though  he 
appears  to  give  the  names  a  special  application  to  what  we  call  Burma 
and  Pegu.  But  Ptolemy,  from  the  nature  of  liis  work,  which  consisted 
in  drawing  such  maps  as  he  could,  and  then  tabulating  the  positions 
from  those   maps,  as  if  he  possessed  most  accurate   data  for  all,  neces- 


BOULEVARD    IN    THE    SHAMEEN,    CANTON. 


sarily  defined  things  with  an  assurance  far  beyond  anything  which  his 
real  materials  justified.  If  we  look  to  the  author  of  the  'Periplus,' 
who  has  no  call  to  affect  impossible  precision,  we  find  that  Chryse  is 
'  the  last  continental  region  toward  tlie  east.'  North  of  it  indeed,  and 
farther  off,  is  Thina,  that  is,  China.  Chryse,  then,  in  the  vague  appre- 
hension of  the  ancients,  —  the  only  appropriate  apprehension,  where 
knowledge  was  so  indefinite,  —  was  the  region  coasted  between  India 
and  China.     It  is  most  correctly  rendered  by  '  Indo-China.'  "     Accepting 


CHINA. 


73 


this  as  the  actual  situation,  we  shall  now  leave  the  region  to  our  south, 
though  our  route  will  enter  a  portion  of  the  country  by  common  consent 
so  designated. 

Again  we  find  ourselves  back  at  Fatee  Creek,  winding  our  way  past 
the  throng  of  boats,  "ferries,"  vessels,  large  and  small,  hwa-tings  or 
flower-boats,  floating  palaces,  and  many  a  craft  that  we  cannot  name, 
which  fill  Fatsang's  river-street.  Among  the  great  number  we  notice 
a  boat  decked  in  beautiful  shape  to  represent  a  bovver  of  flowers,  which 


CANTO.VKSE     MUSICIANS. 


is  under  the  charge  of  a  bevy  of  Chinese  beauties,  who  apjuMr  under 
the  friendly  rays  of  lanterns  and  the  spell  of  nuisic  in  a  prt)fu8ion  of 
paint  and  adornments  that  is  quite  remarkable,  if  not  productive 
of  personal  charm.  These  youthful  houris,  some  of  whom  are  really 
beautiful,  but  all  of  whom  are  illiterate,  have  the  credit  of  being  sweet 
poetesses,  an  illusion  which  neither  time  nor  truth  has  been  able  to 
remove  from  the  impressions  given  by  accounts  of  the  misty  past.  This 
floating  palace  of  flowers,  where  the  floral  offerings  of  the  Flowery 
Kingdom  are  so  well  pictured,  bears  the  fanciful,  but  not  inappropriate. 


name  of  ''  Snow-drop."  Farther  on  we  see  another,  poetically  styled 
the  "  White  Pearl,"  and  then  two,  which  are  bound  together  by  bands 
of  lilies  and  bright  flowering  vines,  and  which  share  in  the  romantic 
term,  "Blush  of  Lips." 

Then  we  leave  Fatsang,  with  its  bustle  and  earthenware,  its  boats 
and  flower-barges,  its  poets  who  do  not  sing,  and  its  beauties  that  do 
not  charm,  and  swing  from  the  meeting-place  of  the  three  rivers  into 
the  broad  channel  of  the  one  coming  from  the  sunset  land.  It  is 
pleasant  to  be  freed  from  the  noise  and  confusion,  excitement  and 
crowded  traffic  of  the  beehives  of  humanity,  and  find  ourselves  where 
the  deities  of  the  river  rule  over  a  landscape  touched  with  transcendental 
beauty.  The  sluggish  stream  sweeps  majestically  along  banks  overhung 
with  a  rank  vegetation  and  far-reaching  open  country,  dotted  here  and 
there  with  groves  of  palms,  bamboo,  and  banyans,  amid  which,  we  are 
told,  wander  the  creatures  of  the  woods  unmolested  by  the  people,  who 
hold  a  high  veneration  for  those  who  cannot  speak  for  themselves. 
Anon  the  river  banks  are  overhung  by  the  strange-looking  dwellings, 
the  stone  walls  of  which  rise  from  the  water's  edge,  and  overhead  the 
towering  temples  dedicated  to  the  god  of  nature ;  then  we  pass  under  the 
sheltering  arms  of  ancient  forests  whose  dense  perfumes  fill  all  the  air. 
Most  aptly  could  the  words  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  in  the  "Heart  of  Mid- 
Lothian,"  when  he  speaks  of  the  Thames,  be  applied  to  this  far-away 
scene :  "  Here  turreted  with  villas  and  there  garlanded  with  forests, 
moved  on  slowly  and  placidly,  like  the  mighty  monarch  of  the  scene, 
to  whom  all  of  its  other  beauties  were  but  accessories,  and  bore  on  his 
bosom  a  hundred  barks  and  skiffs,  whose  white  sails  and  gaily  fluttering 
pennons  gave  life  to  the  whole." 

The  "hundred  barks  and  skiffs"  that  ply  on  West  River  are  the 
singular  boats  and  barges  peculiar  to  the  country,  not  the  least  con- 
spicuous of  which  is  the  ho-tau,  which  means  literally  a  "  river  ferry," 
of  which  class  we  are  often  meeting  specimens,  while  others  are  follow- 
ing in  our  wake.  It  will  be  remembered  that  we  took  passage  on  one 
of  these,  the  owner  of  which  agreed  to  carry  us  to  Po-se,  six  hundred 
miles  from  Canton,  for  one  hundred  taels,  equal  to  a  little  over 
$150.  He  calculates  it  will  take  us  forty  days  to  make  the  passage, 
which   will   make   an    average   of   fifteen   miles   a   day.      It   is   a    slow 


CHINA. 


(D 


method  of  travel,  but  the  best  in  China,  except  wliere  the  few  steamers 

ply- 

The  ho-tan,  which  looks  in  the  distance  like  a  huge  floating  house, 
is  commonly  used  by  mandarins  and  well-to-do  traders  in  their  trips  up 
and  down  the  rivers.  The  l)etter  class  liking  luxury  and  comfort  even 
when  travelling,  these  house-boats  are  roomy  and  well-furnished,  so  as 
to  afford  the  greatest  ease  and  delight.     In  summer  they  furnish  a  very 


BOAT    SCENE    OX    THE    RIVER,    CANTOX. 


enjoyable  way  of  travelling,  to  liim  avIio  does  not  put  a  high  vahiation 
on  his  time.  They  are  made  flat-bottomed,  and  draw  from  a  foot  and 
a  half  to  two  feet  of  water.  A  deck-house,  with  about  eight-foot  posts 
and  running  nearly  the  entire  length,  is  diA'ided  into  several  apart- 
ments by  movable  partitions.  These  are  lighted  and  \entilated  by  glass 
windows,  which  have  wooden  shutters  that  can  l)e  closed  at  pleasure. 
A  foot-board  or  walk-way  about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  width  runs  the 
entire  length  of  the  boat  on  both  sides,  to  support  the  crew  when  navi- 


gating  the  craft  by  means  of  long  poles.  These  boatmen  keep  tim.e  to 
their  strokes  with  unearthly  cries ;  the  more  noise  and  confusion  they 
create  the  better.  On  account  of  the  danger  that  exists  to  this  day 
from  river  pirates  who  infest  many  of  these  streams,  these  boats 
usually  carry  an  armament  of  firearms,  some  ancient  horse-pistols,  pikes, 
both  straight  and  pronged,  and  halberds.     The  last  two  named  are  the 


CHUIST    CHURCH    FOR    P'OKEIGNKKS,    CANTON. 


famous  weapons  of  Chinese  history,  and  the  tales  of  old  are  filled  with 
the  wonderful  deeds  performed  by  the  redoubtable  warriors  of  a  day  and 
amid  scenes  that  are  hard  to  locate  at  this  time. 

These  boats  are  all  appropriately  named,  as  well  as  being  properly 
christened,  and  bear  sometimes  several  proverbs  from  favourite  authors 
carefully  engraved  on  a  panel  or  tablet.  We  notice  the  following  sug- 
gestive lines  :  "  Mountains  are  famous  as  being  the  abiding-places,  as  well 
as  for  their  heights ;  "  "  Rivers  are  more  renowned  for  the  dragons  inhab- 


CHINA.  77 

iting  their  waters  than  for  their  depth ; "  "  This  boat,  "where  I  Hve  with 
virtue  and  contentment,  is  safer  and  more  desirable  than  the  imperial 
throne." 

The  sun  was  sinking  behind  a  dark  mass  of  rock  and  earth  and  scanty 
vegetation  on  our  left,  marking  the  speedy  approach  of  niglit,  and  all  of 
those  on  the  boa,t  who  had  the  leisure  were  watching  the  abrupt  frontage 
of  country  ahead,  when  the  ho-tau  swung  lazily  around  toward  the  left 
bank,  though  there  was  no  sign  of  a  landing-place  anywhere  in  this  vicin- 
ity. The  watchers  instantly  turned  their  gaze  from  the  landscape  to  seek 
the  cause  of  this  sudden  and  unexpected  change  of  course,  fearing  that 
some  accident  had  fallen  to  the  craft.  A  rapid  glance  along  the  rough 
bank  showed  only  the  solitary  figure  of  a  man,  whose  form  was  silhouetted 
against  the  sky  with  remarkable  boldness.  His  long,  straggling  white 
beard,  if  nothing  else  about  his  tall,  slender  figure,  told  that  he  was  long 
since  past  the  prime  of  life,  though  he  stood  erect  as  a  youth.  He 
remained  perfectly  motionless  until  the  boat  swung  near  enough  for 
him  to  spring  from  the  point  of  rock  on  board,  when  the  boatmen  brought 
their  craft  back  into  the  middle  current,  and  resumed  their  laborious 
poling  against  the  stream. 

Now  that  we  get  a  closer  look  at  this  stranger,  who  has  so  unceremoni- 
ously joined  our  party,  we  can  see  that  he  is  older  than  wo  had  judged  from 
a  more  distant  view,  but  his  dress  shows  that  he  does  not  belong  to  the 
lower  class.  In  our  country  we  should  look  upon  him,  with  his  thread- 
bare garments  and  travel-stained  appearance,  as  a  gentleman  in  needy  cir- 
cumstances. But  if  his  means  are  not  the  best,  his  countenance  is  cheer- 
ful, and  the  moment  we  hear  his  voice  we  are  pleased.  He  suggests  a 
phase  of  life  we  have  not  seen  before,  and  which  we  do  not  yet  understand. 
Upon  inquiry,  we  learn  that  he  is  well  known  to  the  crew  of  the  ho-tau, 
and  then  our  tin-chai  introduces  him  as  "  Go  Mung,  the  Talebearer." 

This  awakens  further  curiosity,  and  the  result  is  that  we  learn  sonif 
thing  both  surprising  and  interesting.  Mr.  Go  Mung,  the  Talebearer,  ir 
more  strictly  speaking,  a  news-carrier,  of  which  we  are  told  there  ar- 
many  in  China.  Though  book-making  has  been  carried  on  to  a  considei 
able  extent,  the  Chinese  have  no  newspaper,  as  we  understand  the  term. 
But  the  news  is  pretty  well  circulated  by  personal  mediums,  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  being  a  sort  of  walking  daily,  going  about  diffusing 


the  accounts  of  tlu^  day.  In  the  interior  districts,  it  may  be  readily 
understood  that  these  affairs  are  often  months  old  before  the}'  reach  the 
people  of  these  districts,  but  it  is  news  there,  and  as  such  passes  current. 
This  seems  to  have  aroused  Mr.  Go  Mung  to  the  fact  that  it  might  be 
made  profitable  for  some  one  to  devote  his  time  to  making  periodical 
visits  to  these  places,  carrying  the  latest  happenings  in  the  coast  towns. 
So  our  strange  passenger  is  a  personal  newspaper  bent  on  circulating  the 
news  to  his  patrons  hundreds  of  miles  away,  it  may  be.  He  has  come 
recently  from  Hong-kong,  which  is  proved  by  his  giving  us  bits  of  affair? 


A    COUNTRY    P^ARMHOUSE. 


that  have  taken  place  since  we  lef{  there.  He  is  a  fluent  talker,  who  can 
speak  ten  or  twelve  diff'erent  languages  and  dialects,  among  which,  we  are 
glad  to  find,  he  counts  the  English.  He  seems  pleased  at  our  appearance, 
and  immediately  we  begin  to  wonder  how  our  tin-chai  will  look  upon  this 
intruder.  He  appears  unconcerned,  as  if  it  did  not  matter  to  him,  as  long 
as  he  got  his  pay,  and  we  are  sure  the  pleasure  of  our  trip  will  be  doubled 
by  the  other's  companionship. 

By  this  time  we  are  in  the  midst  of  a  wild,  picturesque  scene,  that  even 
in  China  is  noted  for  its  attractions.  In  America  or  Europe  it  would  be 
visited  by  tourists  from  far  and  near  as  a  popular  resort.  Shau-hing-hap 
Gorge,  as  it  is  known,  is  nearly  four  miles  long,  flanked  on  either  side 


CHINA.  79 

hj^  steep  mountainsides  that  look  as,  if  the  whole  mighty  body  had  been 
dropped  here  by  some  great  power.  The  channel  of  the  river  becomes 
compressed  to  one-fifth  of  its  usual  width,  and  the  sullen  waters  flow 
swiftly  between  its  granite  barriers  at  a  depth,  in  places,  of  a  hundred 
feet.  The  wall  of  sheer  rock,  destitute  of  vegetation  at  places,  becomes 
here  and  there  the  fountain-head  for  torrents  of  water  leaping  forth  to 
fall  into  the  river  below.  Along  the  base  of  the  rock  winds  a  well-worn 
foot-path,  and  we  fall  to  wondering  where  it  leads,  and  for  what  purpose 
travellers  can  be  wending  their  lonely  way  here  under  the  mists  and  the 
shadows  of  the  mountains. 

Go  Mung  is  standing  by  our  side,  and  we  are  alDout  to  ask  him  its 
explanation,  when  he  points  out  to  us  a  weird  figure  standing  on  the 
summit  of  the  rocky  height  overtopping  us.  Then  the  ho-tau  swings 
around  enough  for  us  to  see,  to  our  surprise,  a  woman's  form  clearly 
defined  to  her  waist  in  the  sunlight  which  falls  on  the  mountains,  and 
standing  with  head  inclined  forward,  as  if  in  an  expectant  attitude,  looking 
for  the  coming  of  some  one.  The  old  Talebearer  must  have  noticed  our 
look  of  wonder,  —  perhaps  he  had  anticipated  it,  —  for  he  begins  to  tell, 
in  a  low  tone,  the  legend  that  he  has  no  doubt  told  many  times  before,  of 
the  "  Expectant  Wife,"  as  the  stone  image  of  Shau-hing-hap  Pass  is  called. 

"  Once  a  man  and  his  wife  lived  in  this  region,  each  with  unfaltering 
faith  in  the  other,  and  both  extremely  happy.  But  after  a  time  it  became 
necessary  for  them  to  be  separated  for  awhile,  he  being  called  away  from 
home  on  business.  Both  knew  he  w^as  entering  a  country  filled  with  war- 
like people,  but  they  parted  firm  in  the  belief  that  they  should  be  reunited 
after  three  years.  As  might  be  expected,  the  time  sped  slowly  and  sorrow- 
fully to  the  waiting  wife.  But  it  soon  proved  different  to  her  lnisl)aiid, 
who  had  forgotten  his  pledge  to  her,  and  was  l)askiiig  in  the  smik's  of  a 
siren  of  the  country  of  Kwangsi.  Finalh^  he  recalled  the  lo\ing  wife  he 
had  left  at  home,  and  he  decided  to  pay  her  a  visit,  intending  to  return 
after  a  short  tarry,  believing  that  he  could  come  on  an  excuse  of  further 
business.  But  the  fair  wooer  of  Kwangsi,  unable  to  dissuade  him  from 
leaving  her,  and  suspecting  his  object,  feared  he  would  never  come  1)ack. 
Once  out  of  her  presence,  her  power  would  cease  over  him.  Unknown  to 
this  recreant  husband,  she  was  a  sorceress,  so  she  tried  Ijy  every  means 
to  stop  him.     But  the  strength  of  the  love  of  the  faitliful  wife  seemed 


to  draw  him  away,  and  in  her  desperation  the  siren  followed  him  down  to 
the  river  on  which  he  was  to  go  by  boat  to  Shau-hing-hap.  The  moment 
of  parting  came,  and,  having  failed  in  all  her  artifices,  the  baffled  woman 
resorted  to  her  last  and  only  hope.  •Under  the  pretence  of  a  hopeful  part- 
ing, she  went  through  a  strange  form  of  magic,  and  he  was  changed  to 
stone  just  as  he  was  leaving  her  side.  He  is  still  to  be  seen  in  a  cave  close 
by  the  river,  a  spot  which  is  known  to  this  day  as  '  The  Held  Man  Cave,' 
while  the  mountain  above  is  called  *  The  Husband  Expecting  Hill.'  The 
grieved  wife,  worn  with  anxious  watching  and  waiting,  had  prayed  to 

the  supernatural 
power  to  send 
her  husband, 
which  accounted 
for  the  siren's 
failure.  When 
her  husband  was 
turned  to  stone, 
singularly  the 
wife  herself  was 
changed  to  the 
same  element, 
where  she  was 
standing  on  her 
lofty  lookout, 
and  there  she 
remains  to  this  day.  It  is  believed  that  some  day  the  pair  will  be 
brought  together,  and  the  faithful  wife  be  thus  rewarded  for  her  long 
years  of  separation." 

Near  the  upper  end  of  the  gorge  stands  the  city  that  gives  it  its  name, 
Sbau-hing-fu,  famed  for  its  nine-storied  pagoda,  built  after  the  style  of  the 
pagodas  of  Southern  China.  This  town,  once  the  provincial  capital  in  the 
days  when  the  Portuguese  first  landed  off  the  coast,  covers  a  large  extent 
of  territory,  with  a  front  of  solid  wall  protecting  it  from  the  floods  of  the 
river,  which  are  to  be  dreaded  at  certain  periods  of  the  year.  Though 
this  place  has  fallen  sadly  from  its  early  grandeur,  traces  of  that  prosper- 
ous day  are  to  be  seen  in  the  broad  stone  slabs  paving  the  streets,  and  big, 


BEGGARS    ON    HILLS    XEAR    NANKIN. 


TllK    >0\\  Ivl.W  A.N      l;i  )A  1)      N  I 


lAllDN,     UOMi-KUNti. 


CHINA. 


81 


busy  shops  that  speak  of  a  time  when  bustle  and  activity  reigned  on  all 
hands.  Not  far  from  Shau-hing,  on  the  east  side,  rise  abruptly  from  the 
green  plain  the  seven  lonely  peaks  of  limestone  known  as  the  "  Seven 
Stars,"  and  formerly  tlie  resort  of  numerous  religious  followers.  Temples 
were  raised  here,  and  in  the  caves  at  the  foot  of  the  peaks  are  several 
Ijronze  images,  and  Go  Mung  assures  us  that  there  are  many  interesting 
legends  connected  with  the  place. 

Above  the  gorge  the  hills  beat  a  hasty  retreat  from  the  river,  and  the 


PAGODAS  ON  GRAND  CANAL. 


country  becomes  covered  with  growth,  where  it  is  not  dotted  with  handets 
surrounded  by  cultivated  fields.  This  portion  of  the  river  passage  has  not 
yet  lost  its  reputation  of  being  dangerous  for  foreign  travellers.  The 
people  are  grossly  superstitious  and  prejudiced  against  newcomers.  Every- 
where one  goes  one  is  followed  by  a  crowd,  which  at  the  moment  least 
expected  becomes  a  mob,  and  a  Chinese  mob  is  the  very  worst  rabble  to 
meet  in  the  world. 

We   soon  find  ourselves   passing  the   ridge   of  black   crj'stalline  stone 
known  as  "Cock's   Comb   Rock."     At  its   foot  the   waters   dash  madly 


against  huge  boulders,  which  seem  to  have  been  thrown  by  a  giant  hand 
at  random  into  the  stream.  The  boatmen  are  kept  busy  battHng  with  the 
current,  and  close  down  by  the  rocky  wall  we  see  the  wreck  of  a  ho-tau 
that  was  hurled  upon  the  rocks  only  the  day  before.  Beyond  this  place 
the  north  bank  of  the  river  rises  abruptly  from  the  water  to  a  considerable 
height,  while  scattered  along  the  summit  are  here  and  there  Chinese 
pagodas,  so  common  in  this  country.     Tlie  landscape  grows  more  inviting 


COUNTRY  SCENE  NEAR  SHAXGUAI. 


as  we  advance  until  we  enter  one  of  the  finest  regions  to  be  found  in  the 
great  empire.  The  river  continues  to  run  close  to  the  base  of  the  hills  on 
our  right,  the  scene,  even  to  the  blue  sky  above,  not  unlike  the  shores  of 
Swiss  lakes.  But  the  novelty  of  the  Swiss  chalets  is  exchanged  for  the 
fantastic  joss-houses,  and  the  picturesque  dwellings  of  the  Alpine  people 
are  displaced  by  the  odd-looking  adobe  buildings  of  the  Chinese,  marked 
as  they  are  everywhere  with  clumps  of  bamboos.  The  stream  is  alive  with 
river  craft,  and  the  medley  of  cries  from  the  noisy  boatmen  fills  the  air  and 
makes  hideous  a  scene  which  would  otherwise  be  exceedingly  enjoyable. 


CHINA.  83 

A  little  later  the  setting  sun  throws  broad  beams  of  changing  gold  over 
the  hillsides,  which  turns  to  silver  on  the  river,  while  fleecy  clouds  with 
azure  linings,  such  as  we  have  seen  overhanging  Lucerne,  float  across  the 
Oriental  sky,  finally  fading  into  the  deep  blue  background  of  the  distance. 
As  the  twilight  robs  the  lower  country  of  its  transient  beauty,  the  strag- 
gling, irregular  appearance  of  the  tiled  walls  and  thatchod  roofs  of  a 
Chinese  village,  embowered  in  the  midst  of  bamboo  thickets  and  other 
more  ancient-looking  trees,  breaks  upon  our  view.     The  buildings  fronting 


COLOSSAL  ELEPHANTS  AT  MING  TOMBS,  NANKIN. 

the  river  have  stone  basements,  with  walls  overhanging  them.  Back  of 
these,  perched  on  stone  under-stories  and  reached  by  tier  on  tier  of  stone 
steps,  rise  one  above  another  the  houses,  topped  like  straw  stacks,  witli 
here  and  there  the  curious-looking  joss-house,  supposed  to  hold  the  good 
fortune  of  the  place.  In  the  distance  rises  the  picturesque  Wa-piu-seh.  tlie 
wooded  belt  of  its  upper  half  and  the  cultivated  regions  below  giving  it 
the  appearance  of  being  only  half  clothed.  A  thin,  silver  mist,  hanging 
like  a  veil  over  its  massive  forehead,  grows  dark  with  the  approaching 
night,  as  our  ho-tau  moves  in  against  the  river  bank  and  the  boatmen 
secure  the  craft  from  drifting  away. 


This  part  of  the  river,  which  sweej^s  around  to  the  south  here,  is 
rich  in  the  romance  of  other  days,  all  of  which  has  not  fled.  The  Tale- 
bearer has  sought  the  town  to  carry  the  latest  news,  his  appearance  every- 
where hailed  with  delight  by  the  people,  who  have  looked  eagerly  forward 
for  his  coming,  it  may  be  for  a  long  time.  During  his  absence  our  tin- 
chai  keeps  our  interest  alive  with  tales  of  the  river  outlaws,  who  once,  if 
not  now,  infested  this  part  of  the  country,  and  whose  daring  deeds  and 
reckless  chivalry  outrival  those  of  Dick  Turpin  and  Sixteen-String-Jack 
and  their  companions  in  the  days  when  Hounslow  Heath  resounded  with 
their  ringing  demands  for  money  or  life  and  the  hoof-strokes  of  their  flying 
horses  in  case  the  pursuit  became  hot.  One  of  this  outlawed  band  became 
especially  noted  for  his  boldness  and  cunning,  until  his  name  was  a  terror 
to  all  peaceful  sojourners  in  the  region.  Like  all  of  his  daring  type,  his 
fate  was  as  remarkable  as  his  career  had  been  romantic. 

A  peasant  living  across  the  river  was  visited  in  his  dreams  one 
night  by  a  magician,  who  told  him  that  on  a  certain  witch's  hour  (mid- 
night), if  he  would  walk  to  the  river's  bank  backward,  he  would  find 
there  a  pair  of  slippers  capable  of  enabling  him  to  cross  the  rapid  stream 
dry-shod.  He  would  also  find  there  a  sword  endowed  with  power  to 
make  him  able  to  slay  the  bold  brigand  while  he  slept  in  his  hut  under 
the  mountain.  Saying  nothing  of  his  wonderful  dream  even  to  his  wife, 
this  brave  fellow  arose  the  following  night  at  the  appointed  hour,  and 
went  down  to  the  river  just  as  he  had  been  told,  even  counting  his  steps 
to  know  that  he  was  right.  Sure  enough,  he  found  there  the  slippers 
and  the  sword.  The  first  he  put  on  his  feet,  and  the  keen-edged  weapon 
he  clasped  in  a  firm  hold,  while  he  walked  over  the  rushing  water  without 
mishap.  He  found  the  pirate  sleeping,  as  he  had  been  told,  and  he 
slew  him  at  the  first  stroke  of  his  charmed  blade.  Flushed  with  the 
triumph  of  his  feat,  he  returned  over  the  river,  keeping  the  sword  and 
the  slippers  as  proof  and  mementoes  of  his  night's  adventure.  The  hero 
died  long  since,  his  home  has  crumbled  away,  the  sword  and  magic  slip- 
pers cannot  be  found,  but  the  story  of  his  great  deed  is  still  told  as  the 
boatmen  move  past  the  place  where  he  is  supposed  to  have  crossed  on 
his  merciful  errand. 


CHAPTER   YIII. 

NATURAL    WOXDERS. 

THE  landscape  constantly  pleases  the  traveller  by  its  varying  phases. 
No  two  scenes  are  alike.  The  land  capable  of  cultivation  along 
this  river  is,  as  a  rule,  a  mere  band  of  earth,  the  background  con- 
sisting of  detached  hills  or  long,  ragged  ridges.  The  phj'sical  appearance 
of  the  inhabitants  shows  that  they  are  inured  to  hardships  and  persistent 
toil  in  order  to  obtain  a  subsistence.  But  for  all  that  they  are  better 
clothed  and  seem  more  prosperous  than  some  of  the  people  farther  north, 
whom  we  have  since  met. 

Now  the  hills  crowd  themselves  down  into  the  water,  narrowing  the 
stream  to  its  utmost,  or  anon  the  landscape  flattens,  the  stream,  but  a 
short  time  before  deep  and  sullen  and  narrow,  becoming  a  broad  sheet  of 
water  as  much  as  three  miles  in  wiltli.  The  bare  hillsides  of  a  short 
time  previous  are  succeeded  by  slopes  covered  with  the  graceful  bamboo, 
the  higher  ascents  are  marked  by  patches  of  a  lesser  growth,  while,  lower 
down,  dense  greenwoods  cover  the  plains.  The  scarceness  of  timber  on 
the  hillsides  is  not  the  fault  of  nature,  but  is  due  to  the  improvidence  of 
man.  The  soil  and  climate  are  both  capable  of  producing  abundant 
growth,  if  he  would  only  allow  them  to  carry  out  their  part  of  the  great 
order  of  things.  In  justice,  it  should  be  added  that  the  government  has 
begun  to  see  the  need  of  official  assistance,  and  already  measures  have 
been  taken  which  will  ensure  a  restoration  of  the  original  garb  of  these 
uplands,  and  thus  add  materially  to  the  wealth  of  the  country*.  If  the 
hills  have  suffered  neglect,  as  much  cannot  be  said  of  the  fertile  valleys, 
which  are  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation  everywhere.  In  this  region 
the  overflows  of  the  river,  like  those  of  the  Nile,  materially  enrich  tlie 
soil. 

This  evening  we  have  seen  a  sight  which  is  well  worth  many  miles  of 
travel  to  witness.  It  is  nothing  less  than  tlie  famous  "  fire  tree "  of 
China.     It  stands  near  the  summit  of  a  slight  elevation  of  ground,  —  a 


shapely  tumulus  of  earth,  —  just  as  if  it  had  sought  this  position  to  show 
off  to  its  best  advantage.  But  this  only  comes  to  us  upon  second  thought. 
We  at  first  see  only  a  shapely  tree  of  medium  size,  every  part  of  whose 
straight  trunk,  graceful  branches,  and  delicate  foliage  is  ablaze  with 
unwonted  splendour.  Overhead,  a  circle  of  brilliant  light  shows  for  a 
long  distance,  while  the  earth  around  for  a  wide  circumference  glistens 
and  sparkles  with  the  transparent  illumination  of  the  living  lamp.,  one 
of  nature's  wonders.  We  are  dazzled,  bewildered,  by  this  magnificent 
spectacle,  of  which  we  have  heard  what  we  had  considered  exaggerated 
accounts,  but  which  we  find  have  done  but  scanty  credit  to  the  beauti- 
ful object.  Nor 
does  our  admira- 
tion cease  when 
we  know  that 
all  this  bright, 
phosph  orescent 
ilium  ina  ti  o  n 
comes  from  a 
myriad  of  little 
creatures  called 
the  "lantern 
fly"  ifulfjora 
candelaria)  o  f 
China.  The 
lio;ht  radiates 
from  the  transparent  sides  of  the  insect's  long  cylindrical  proboscis. 

The  Talebearer,  though  he  has  doubtless  seen  just  such  a  phenomenon 
many  times,  seems  greatly  affected  by  the  sight  of  the  fire-tree,  and,  as  we 
turn  away,  he  tells  us  the  following  curious  story  to  account  for  its  origin : 
"Many  years  ago,  so  many  that  the  learned  writers  cannot  compute 
the  time,  though  one  of  them  spent  his  entire  life  in  reckoning  the 
ages,  there  lived  two  youthful  princes  of  great  beauty  and  manliness. 
This  couple  loved  each  other  dearly,  and  they  were  always  seen  together. 
One  day,  as  they  were  out  in  the  country  walking  about,  they  came  upon 
a  deep,  wide  ravine,  spanned  by  a  bridge  of  flowers.  While  they  stood 
admiring  the  beautiful  structure,  they  discovered  on  the  opposite  side 


BRIDGE    OVER    CANAL    AT    SOOCHOW. 


CHINA. 


87 


two  maidens'*  of  wondrous  beauty.  They  fancied  these  beckoned  for 
them  to  cross  over,  and,  regardless  of  the  frailty  of  the  bridge,  they 
passed  over  to  the  sunny  bank  of  the  ravine. 

"  The  fair  twain  proved  as  sweet-tempered  as  they  were  beautiful, 
and  the  youths  were  fain  to  tarry  with  them,  the  four  talking  the 
romantic  nonsense  in  which  the  young  delight.  Finally,  after  what 
seemed  to  them  a  brief  stay  with  the  enchantresses,  they  reluctantly 
bade  them  adieu.  But  when  they  turned  to  retrace  their  steps,  they 
found  that  the  flower  bridge 
had  vanished,  so  that  a  wide 
gulf  lay  between  them  and 
the  farther  bank.  Thus  were 
they  obliged  to  go  around 
the  ravine,  which  took  them 
so  long,  they  claimed,  — 
though  the  wise  heads  said 
it  was  because  they  had 
tarried  such  a  time  with  the 
pretty,  bewitching  maids, — 
that  they  were  old  men 
when  they  reached  their 
native  place.  Nor  was  this 
the  worst,  for  the  home  of 
their  father  could  not  be 
found,  and  they  could  find 
no  one  who  knew  him. 
After  many  vain  inquiries, 
they  came  to  understand  that  a  new  generation  of  people  was  on  earth, 
and  that  their  kindred  had  slept,  lo  !  many,  many  years  uikUt  tlic  silken 
sward  of  the  village's  ancient  burial-groiuid.  'I'hey  did  not  care  to 
linger  long  amid  a  scene  so  painful  to  tliem,  and  at  tlie  close  of  one 
summer  day  they  were  carried  side  by  side  to  a  place  of  rest  near 
their  parents.  As  for  the  maids,  wdio  had  proved  themselves  sorcer- 
esses, they  were  transformed  into  those  living  lamps,  the  beautiful  '  fire 
trees.' " 

This  is  the  Chinese  version  of  the  tale  of  Rip  Van   Winkle,  which 


GREAT    BELL    TOWER    AT    NANKIN. 


is  common,  to  all  lands,  in  one  form  or  another.  On  many  of  the  fans 
of  the  Flowery  Kingdom  have  been  2Dainted  the  scenes  of  this  legend, 
the  young  maids  in  flowing  pink  and  blue  silk  gowns,  the  bridge  of 
flowers,  and  the  youthful  lovers  about  to  cross  over  to  the  sides  of 
their  waiting  sweethearts. 

As  we  progress,  the  cultivation  of  rice  becomes  less  common,  its  place 
taken  by  Indian  corn,  supplemented  by  pumpkins  raised  with  the  cereal. 
Then  fruit  orchards  gladden  our  sight  with  their  abundance,  these  hav- 
ing been  rarely  seen  in  the  lower  regions.  Then  the  country  of  red 
sandstone  hills  is  entered,  presenting  less  attraction. 
•  We  soon  approach  the  end  of  steam  navigation,  the  most  important 
city  between  Canton  and  Yunnan  in  the  west,  which  lies  at  the  junction 
of  the  Kwei  and  West  Rivers.  It  is  a  walled  town,  affording  but  little 
interest  to  the  tourist,  but  presents  a  most  active  appearance,  with  its 
markets  situated  on  scows  moored  near  the  north  bank  of  the  river, 
its  chain  of  rafts  running  up  and  down  the  stream  for  a  long  distance, 
and  other  craft  beyond  counting  and  naming  lining  both  banks.  The 
rafts  are  made  of  logs  held  together  by  cross-ties  of  stout  scantlings, 
overlapped  by  planks.  Each  has  its  house  raised  upon  wooden  posts, 
and  thatched  roof  overlaid  with  sawed  planks  running  horizontally  on 
the  slopes.  This  place  has  a  population  of  from  thirty  thousand  to 
forty  thousand  people. 

We  begin  to  see  a  change  in  the  landscape  as  soon  as  we  leave 
Wuchau,  and  by  the  time  we  reach  Mong-kong  the  scene  becomes  grand 
and  picturesque.  The  river  winds  through  a  perfect  maze  of  hills,  set 
with  a  background  of  mountains,  whose  wooded  sides  rise  into  the  sky 
with  outlines  softened  by  the  liquid  azure  of  the  Southern  atmosphere. 
We  are  told  that  the  hillsides  afford  good  hiding-places  for  bands  of 
robbers  that  are  the  terror  of  the  country.  Their  favourite  places  of 
resort  are  the  forts  raised  during  the  Taiping  rebellion,  which  were  left 
to  ruin  when  the  insurrection  had  been  ended.  The  stories  of  the  boat- 
men are  now  graphic  accounts  of  wild  adventure,  which  the  traveller 
has  to  accept  with  a  certain  amount  of  allowance.  Fortunately,  none  of 
the  bold  marauders  offer  to  molest  us. 

This  leads  us  to  say  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  "  Two  Kwangs," 
tung  (east)  and  si  (west),  are  looked  upon  by  the  rest  of  the  inhabitants 


CHINA. 


89 


of  the  empire  as  "  barbarians,"  and  not  fit  to  receive  into  association. 
The  stranger  cannot  fail  to  notice  a  marked  difference  from  the  Can- 
tonese in  demeanour  and  personal  appearance.  As  we  continue  north  we 
shall  find  a  still  more  marked  difference.  On  the  whole,  they  are  not 
as  agreeable,  and  their  language,  dress,  bearing,  and  individual  traits 
go  to  show  that  they  must  have  sprung  from  different  stock.  In  this 
connection,  it  may  be  added  that  all  Chinese  consider  the  people  of  other 


VIEW    ON    ISLAND    UF    TOOTOO. 


countries  to   be  a    part    of    the    "  cut-off    regions,"   and    that    they   are 
barbarians.     We  are  now  in  West  Kwang,  or  country. 

The  Fuho,  or  Kwei  —  meaning  literally  "  demon  "  —  River,  which  we 
are  to  follow,  enters  the  main  stream  where  it  is  much  smaller  than  at 
Wuchau.  The  Fuho  has  its  headwaters  in  the  highlands  between  the 
valleys  of  the  West  River  and  the  Sang-ka,  or  Rod  River.  Running 
through  a  broken  country,  of  which  we  have  begun  to  get  an  example, 
it  is  not  navigable  for  steamers. 


We  soon  begin  to  hear  al:)out  that  inland  city  of  Kwangsi,  Naning, 
which  is  situated  on  this  river  just  above  one  of  its  sharp  bends.  The 
country  in  this  vicinity  is  comparatively  level,  rising  gently  from  the 
banks  of  the  stream  into  the  interior,  which  is  thickly  wooded.  The 
town  stretches  along  the  encircling  river  on  the  north  bank,  and  is  a 
walled  city  larger  than  Wuchau,  having,  perhaps,  fifty  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, though  it  is  never  safe  to  figure  on  the  population  of  a  Chinese 


BAMBOO    SCAFFOLDING    FOR    A    FOHEIGN    HOUSE. 


town.  Years  ago,  before  the  rebellion  of  the  Yunnan  Mussulmen  and 
the  Taiping  insurrection,  it  was  more  prosperous  than  it  is  now.  The 
trade  during  those  troublesome  times,  of  which  we  shall  have  occasion 
to  speak  more  definitely  hereafter,  was  driven  northward  to  the 
Yangtse  Kiang,  and  it  has  never  returned.  Probably  it  will  never  come 
back,  though  the  situation  of  Naning  is  a  promising  one,  and  when- 
ever the  country  south  and  west  is  opened,  as  it  should  be,  this  would 
become  a  flourishing  commercial  centre.     Still,  before  "■  banking  on  "  the 


CHINA.  9^ 

future  of  this  place,  it  should  be  considered  that  the  province  of  Kwangsi 
is  broken,  and  only  a  small  proportion  of  its  territory  is  fit  for  cultiva- 
tion. These  tracts  are  along  the  banks  of  the  streams  finding  their 
sources  in  the  mountainous  interior.  This  province,  which  is  about  the 
size  of  our  State  of  Kansas,  and  Kwang-tung,  a  little  larger,  are  remark- 
ably thinly  populated,  according  to  the  general  idea  of  the  empire,  if 
the  cities  are  left  out  of  account.  Not  all  of  the  land  suitable  for  tillage 
has  been  taken  up,  strange  as  this  may  seem. 

Buffaloes,  called  here  "water  oxen,"  many  of  which  are  white  and 
very  docile,  are  common  in  this  region,  being  used  in  the  cultivation  of 
rice.  They  are  considered  to  be  worth  from  fifteen  to '  twenty  taels,  or 
twenty  to  thirty  dollars,  apiece.  Oxen  are  very  scarce  and  higher  in  price. 
We  have  seen  two  or  three  scrub  ponies.  White  being  looked  upon  in 
China  with  ill-favour,  and  considered  to  belong  to  mourning,  we  are  struck 
by  the  great  number  of  white  kerchiefs  worn  about  the  head  by  the  people 
in  this  vicinity.  It  may  be  also  a  sign  of  poverty,  for  the  larger  part  of 
the  inhabitants  are  very  poor. 

More  and  more  are  we  made  to  believe  as  we  go  ahead  that  we  are  not 
wanted  here.  Every  stranger  is  looked  upon  by  the  natives  as  come  to 
do  them  harm,  to  take  away  their  po,  which  short  expression  is  equivalent 
to  saying  "  Rob  us  of  our  good  fortune."  Ten-li  stones  are  to  be  seen 
occasionally  along  the  country  routes,  but  seldom  with  any  particular 
regard  to  distance,  the  slabs  being  sometimes  thrice  as  far  apart  as  at 
others.  On  our  asking  concerning  this,  we  are  told  that  if  the  distance 
is  greater  the  route  is  more  easy  to  travel,  which  evens  up  the  seeming 
discrepancy. 

Many  of  the  men  of  this  part  of  the  province,  and  in  fact  elsewhere, 
have  Chung-koo  women  for  waves.  The  women  of  this  class  in  Kwang-si 
have  a  wide  notoriety  for  possessing  powers  not  belonging  to  humans.  It 
is  claimed  they  can  cast  a  spell  over  their  husbands  or  lovers  which  cannot 
be  broken  by  them.  The  man  who  forsakes  his  wife,  or  the  lover  who 
deserts  his  prospective  bride,  is  sure  to  become  unfortunate  and  die  at  the 
end  of  three  years.  Our  tin-chai  has  many  accounts  of  this  kind  to  tell, 
the  majority  of  which  fell  under  his  own  observation,  if  we  are  to  believe 
all  he  says.  Among  others  that  he  tells  is  the  story  of  the  Cantonese  man 
who  married  one  of  these  women,  but  finally  tiring  of  her,  resolved  to 


abandon  her,  believing  he  was  cunning  enough  to  do  it  without  arousing 
her  suspicions.  Thus' he  never  hinted  of  going  away  until  the  morning  of 
his  intended  -departure,  when  he  abruptly  declared  to  his  wife  that  he  was 
going  home  for  a  short  visit.     She  appeared  unconcerned,  but  when  she 

invited  him  to  eat 
he  pleaded  indis- 
position, and  did 
not  eat  or  drink 
for  fear  she  had 
touched  the  food 
with  some  magic 
potion.  Upon  the 
eve  of  his  leave- 
taking  she  gave 
him  a  pen  with 
which  he  might 
write  to  her,  and 
he  took  the  gift 
without  dreaming 
of  any  evil  conse- 
quence. Soon  after, 
in  using  it,  he 
touched  it  to  his 
tongue,  and  at  the 
end  of  three  years, 
not  returning  to 
his  wife,  he  died. 
It  is  ■  said  with  ap- 
parent good  reason 
that  there  are  few  recreant  lovers  or  unfaithful  husbands  where  these 
artful  women  make  their  homes. 

Our  next  place  of  interest  is  Ngan-pai  Gorge,  where  the  river  is  again 
compressed  into  a  narrow  channel,  and  the  banks  rise  abruptly  from  the 
water's  edge.  Above  this  rugged  spot  the  bold  front  of  granite  known 
as  Tchu-tan,  or  ''  Pig's  Head,"  stands  out  in  such  prominent  relief  as  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the  passers-by.     Some  years  since  the  boatmen 


PAGODA    AT    KKWKIANG. 


CHINA. 


93 


discovered  the  image  of  a  Buddhist  goddess,  when  she  in  some  way  con- 
veyed to  them  her  wish  to  be  taken  to  a  place  on  the  hilltop,  where  she 
was  borne  by  her  willing  followers,  and  a  temple  was  erected  in  plain  sight 
on  an  opposite  hill.     The  name  of  the  first  hill  was  altered  to  Ne-to. 

Chinese  temples  are  composed  of  a  series  of  ©loisters  surrounded  by  a 
court,  the  temple  or  hall  being  connected  by  terraces  or  galleries,  their 
proportions  plain  and  meagre,  and  without  any  claim  to  strength  or  bold- 


THE    HOKSK    UOt>,    TKMFLK    MKAIC    SHANGHAI. 


ness  of  design.  These  temples,  associated  with  halls  of  diiferent  guilds 
and  assemblies,  with  the  yamens  of  the  official  residents,  afford  almost  tlie 
only  public  buildings  to  be  seen  in  a  Chinese  city.  And  these  have  little 
to  distinguish  them  from  other  buildings  or  to  impress  the  visitor  with  any 
special  importance.  They  are  far  inferior  to  the  Buddhist  temples  of 
Burma,  and  lack  the  impressive  sacredness  belonging  to  the  temples 
of  Japan. 

We  see  here  the  prettiest  joss-house  that  we  have  found.     It  is  a  hand- 


*fc 


some  structure  raised  in  three  tiers,  built  of  gray-coloured  brick,  the  upper 
story  being  square,  while  the  one  below  is  hexagonal,  which  gives  the 
building  a  striking  effect  not  common  with  Chinese  edifices  of  this  nature. 
The  ground  floor  is  ornamented  with  several  rude,  bright-coloured  images, 
prominent  among  them  •'being  a  grotesque  figure  in  flowing  skirts,  and 
with  a  horn  on  either  side  of  its  head.  The  right  hand  is  uplifted,  holding 
in  the  air  a  huge  Chinese  pen,  which  is  believed  to  j)rove  him  to  be  a  god 
of  literature,  though  why  the  horns  are  considered  a  necessary  part  of  the 
figure  is  beyond  our  understanding.  The  mythology  of  the  ancients  called 
for  these  horns  on  the  river  gods,  and  it  may  be  these  Chinese  gods  of 
literature  are  related  to  them.  We  cannot  say.  But  the  Talebearer  is 
ready  for  a  story,  and  we  must  listen,  or  incur  his  displeasure  for  an 
indefinite  period. 

"  The  story  is  of  the  peasant  who  loved  the  daughter  of  the  mandarin. 
She  was  very  beautiful  and  her  father  extremely  rich,  so  it  seemed  the 
height  of  presumption  for  him  to  think  of  marrying  her,  but  he  was  deter- 
mined, and  she  was  willing.  So  the  lovers  persisted  in  meeting  after 
her  father  had  positively  forbidden  her  even  to  see  him.  To  make  matters 
worse  for  them,  the  mandarin  had  selected  a  rich  tea-merchant  for  his  only 
daughter,  and  this  trader  was  not  only  very  old  but  exceedingly  ugly. 
He  had  had  many  wives  already,  and  they  had  all  died  mysterious  deaths. 
But  he  offered  the  mandarin  a  large  sum  for  his  daughter  as  a  new  wife, 
and  the  temptation  of  the  money,  together  with  his  desire  to  get  rid  of 
the  peasant-lover,  caused  the  father  to  consent. 

"  The  lovers  used  to  meet  on  the  top  of  yonder  hill,  which  you  see  from 
this  side  is  very  steep,  though  on  the  other  it  is  more  gradual  in  its  ascent. 
Now  it  so  happened  that  as  the  mandarin  was  returning  home  on  the  eve 
preceding  the  day  he  had  set  for  his  daughter's  wedding,  he  discovered 
that  she  and  her  lover  were  about  to  start  for  their  try  sting-place  at  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  Knowing  that  it  would  fare  ill  with  them  should  her 
father  find  her  with  him,  the  peasant  told  the  maiden  to  get  into  a  big 
sack  he  had  with  him,  when  he  flung  the  bag,  with  her  in  it.  over  his 
shoulder  and  started  homeward. 

"  But  the  mandarin  stopped  him,  and  pretending  he  did  not  know  what 
he  was  certain  was  true,  asked  what  the  youth  was  carrying  on  his  shoul- 
ders that  seemed  so  heavy. 


CHINA. 


95 


" '  If  it  does  not  displease  you,  sir/  replied  the  frightened  peasant,  '  my 
burden  is  not  as  heavy  as  it  may  appear  from  my  actions.  A  bag  of 
grain  weighs  less  than  a  hundred  pounds.' 

"  '  So  it  is  a  sack  of  grain  ? '  cried  the  mandarin.  '  Look  here,  sir  youth, 
to  prove  to  me  it  is  not  heavy  let  me  see  you  carry  it  to  the  top  of  yon 
hill,  without  once  resting  on  your  way.' 

"  Thoroughly  alarmed,  the  peasant  knew  not  what  to  say,  and  while  he 
hesitated  the  mandarin  said  : 


BUDDHIST    TEMPLE,    NEAR    NINGPO. 

" '  Hark  you !  As  an  encouragement  for  you  to  take  this  trouble  to 
humour  an  old  man's  whim,  I  will  give  you  my  daughter  in  marriage  if 
you  succeed  in  carrying  that  sack  witli  all  in  it  to  the  liillto}).  But 
if  you  have  to  stop  to  rest,  or  fail  to  reach  tlie  summit,  3\)U  are  never 
to  speak  to  her  again  as  long  as  you  both  live.     Will  you  agree  to  this  ? ' 

"  The  poor  youth  looked  up  the  steep  ascent,  which  was  so  ditheult  to 
climb  even  imhampered  with  a  burden,  and  then  at  the  hard-featured 
mandarin.  He  saw  that  a  crowd  of  people  was  beginning  to  gather, 
and  for  a  moment  he  felt  dizzy  from  the  thought  of  his  situation.     Fore- 


most  in  the  line  of  spectators  was  the  rich  tea-merchant,  who  laughed 
heartily  at  his  discomfiture,  having  been  apprised  of  the  situation  by  the 
mandarin.  With  a  very  pale  countenance,  but  resolved  to  accomplish  the 
feat  if  possible,  he  whispered  a  word  of  encouragement  to  the  concealed 
maiden,  and  started  on  his  laborious  journey. 

"  He  moved  slowly  at  the  start,  knowing  that  he  would  need  every  par- 
ticle of  strength  before  he  should  gain  the  summit.     This  the  mandarin 

mistook  for  weakness,  and 
he  laughed  long  and  loud, 
in  which  merriment  the 
tea-merchant  joined.  But 
the  crowd,  as  crowds  gen- 
erally do,  favoured  the  un- 
fortunate, and  a  mirthless 
silence  fell  upon  the  rest 
of  the  spectators.  Picking 
his  way  with  extreme  care, 
feeling  that  a  single  mis- 
step would  send  himself 
and  his  precious  charge  to 
the  bottom  of  the  preci- 
pice, the  youth  continued 
to  mount  high  and  higher. 
Now  he  is  midway  in  the 
ascent,  and  the  onlookers 
see  him  hesitate  for  a  mo- 
ment, as  if  doubtful  of  his 
ability  to  move  on.  The  mandarin  and  the  merchant  cease  their  laughter. 
The  situation  grows  more  serious.  What  if  the  youth  does  succeed  in 
reaching  the  top?  Then  the  yet  more  startling  alternative  enters  their 
obstinate  minds,  what  if  he  fails  ?  Will  the  maid  be  dashed  to  death 
upon  the  rocks  below  ?  With  the  others  they  now  watch  the  arduous 
movements  of  the  young  peasant  with  breathless  anxiety. 

"  Two-thirds  of  the  distance  has  been  made,  and  again  the  lover  hesi- 
tates, while  for  a  moment  a  face  of  deathly  pallor  is  turned  backward. 
Then  he  rallies,  he  moves  sideways,  he  staggers  upward,  his  steps  are 


VIEW    IN    RAVINE    AT    TA-LAN-SHAN. 


CHINA. 


97 


short,  his  feet  move  close  together,  it  is  superhuman  effort  urging  him 
on ;  the  sack  breaks  open  at  the  top,  a  pair  of  arms  is  lifted  upward,  as 
if  to  help  lighten  the  burden  of  the  struggling  bearer.  Even  the  father 
prays  now  that  they  may  reach  the  summit.  See !  he  is  almost  to  the 
brink,  he  staggers  backward ;  a  groan  of  despair  leaves  the  lips  of  the 
spectators,  it  is  their  first  utterance ;  he  rallies,  he  lifts  another  foot,  he 
reaches  the  level  of  the  top,  he  staggers  again,  he  falls,  but  it  is  forward. 
With  the  maid  clasped  in  his  arms,  he  lies  at  the  summit  of  the  hill.  He 
has  won !  A  shout  of  joy  goes  up  from  the  crowd,  while  the  disappointed 
merchant  raves  in  anger. 

"  No  move  is  made  by 
those  at  the  crest  of  the 
hill  to  rise,  and  the  won- 
dering spectators  soon 
start  hurriedly  toward  the 
spot,  both  the  mandarin 
and  the  merchant,  the  first 
with  emotions  that  even 
he  cannot  understand,  and 
the  other  filled  with  rage, 
following  the  others.  But 
it  is  a  long  way  around, 
and  it  is  some  time  before 

the  foremost,  a  nimble-footed  friend  of  the  peasant-lover,  reaches  the  side 
of  the  still  motionless  couple.  They  lie  face  to  face  on  the  ground.  A 
single  look  and  he  springs  back. 

" '  They  rest  after  that  terrible  journey,'  declared  the  mandarin. 

"  '  Separate  them  ! '  yelled  the  angry  merchant. 

" '  The  Goddess  of  Mercy  forbid  that  they  ever  be  separated,'  said  a 
spectator,  fervently. 

" '  Well  might  they  rest  after  that  awful  ordeal,'  said  the  young  man, 
speaking  respectfully  to  the  mandarin  first ;  then  to  the  glowering  mer- 
chant he  replied : 

"  '  It  is  not  in  your  power  to  part  them  ;  they  are  both  dead  ! '  " 

Farther  up  we  see  the  famous  rock  called  Pang-tong-ngan,  which  rises 
abruptly  from  the  water's  edge  to  a  considerable  height.     In  a  cave  near 


Me 

.'^^H 

STONE    ANIMALS    AT    MI.\(i     luMlt:- 


by,  it  is  said,  the  noted  emperor  of  the  Ming  dynasty,  Kinmun,  took 
refuge  with  his  army  when  pursued  by  his  jDowerful  enemies.  As  they 
did  not  find  him  here,  he  transformed  the  cave  into  a  temple,  and  became 
himself  a  priest. 

The  scenery  above  this  historic  cave  is  beautiful,  the  richly  wooded  hills 
taking  on  a  purple  tint,  while  those  nearer  the  river  stand  out  in  a  deep 
brown,  relieved  by  the  silver  of  the  stream  and  the  soft  azure  of  the  sky. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

THE    HEAD    OF    RIVER    JSTAVIGATION. 

WE  are  both  amused  and  surjDrised  at  the  number  of  soldiers  to  be 
seen  on  dress  parade  at  the  different  villages  as  we  advance.  A 
placard  on  the  breast  of  each  uniformed  member  of  the  marching 
ranks  proclaims  him  to  be  a  "  Brave."  How  effective  this  bit  of  literary 
conceit  would  prove  in  battle  we  cannot  say,  but  if  it  does  add  a  ridiculous 
appearance  to  the  moving  column  it  certainly  lends  picturesque  effect,  and 
reminds  us  of  a  semi-military  organisation  at  home  which  was  shrewdly 
described  by  an  anti-admirer  as  "  invincible  at  the  banquet,  invisible  in 
battle." 

The  Tu-yang  tribe  of  natives,  whom  we  meet  on  this  trip,  has  a  curious 
custom  resembling  that  of  our  St.  Valentine's  Day,  which  takes  place  on 
the  first  three  days  of  the  year.  All  the  young  people  of  the  village, 
divided  into  two  parties  according  to  sex,  station  themselves  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  valley.  Songs,  feasting,  and  love-making  are  the  leading 
features  of  the  occasion,  which  opens  by  the  swains  singing  improvised 
love-songs  to  such  damsels  as  they  desire  to  captivate.  If  these  serenades 
are  received  with  favour  by  any  maid,  she  throws  a  coloured  ball,  wound 
by  her  own  nimble  fingers,  to  him  whom  she  wishes  to  catch  it.  If  he 
misses,  woe  to  his  future  peace  of  mind  for  at  least  that  year,  unless  she 
grants  him  a  second  trial.  When  successful,  the  lover  escorts  his  sweet- 
heart to  the  fair  arranged  for  this  fete,  and  for  the  three  daj's  he  is  subject 
to  her  slightest  caprice,  being  expected  to  buy  whatever  she  may  choose. 
It  can  be  said  to  the  credit  of  the  fair  ones  that  it  is  seldom  one  goes 
beyond  the  means  of  her  companion.  The  festival  over,  the  even  tenor 
of  the  old  life  goes  on,  until  another  year  sees  a  new  fair  planned,  intended 
perhaps  to  eclipse  any  former  effort. 

Notwithstanding  the  many  little  inconveniences  and  annoyances  that 
we  experience,  the  trip  grows  more  attractive  as  we  progress,  though  we 
cannot  deny  that  much  of  its  interest  is  due  to  our  genial  and  versatile 


companion,  Go  Miing,  the  Talebearer.  Each  evenmg,  the  day's  sight- 
seeing over  and  the  boatmen  at  rest  with  their  inseparable  pipes,  he 
seats  himself  at  our  feet,  and  while  we  listen  and  doze,  and  awaken  to 
listen  again,  he  tells  some  new  tale  of  olden  times,  arouses  our  interest 
with  some  new  development  in  the  picturesque  mythology  of  the  country, 
until  our  sketch-book  contains  treasures  equal  to  the  fascinating  entertain- 
ments of  the  "Arabian  Nights."  That  which  surprises  us  most  is  the 
singular  purity  of  thought  and  expression  in   the  myths  of  this  region, 


A    BRICK    AND    TILK    YARD,    NEAR    NINGPO. 


which,  in  this  respect,  is  wonderfully  rich.     The  ancient  religious  accounts 
of  no  other  Oriental  country  can  match  it  in  this  regard. 

"  Once  upon  a  time,"  began  Go  Mung,  "  a  poor  man  planted  a  bed  of 
ginseng,  and  it  being  his  only  crop  he  guarded  it  with  zealous  care,  both 
by  day  and  night.  As  the  season  grew  cooler  he  built  him  a  temporary 
shelter,  which  he  could  move  about,  as  a  protection  during  the  hours  of 
night-time.  He  had  no  sons  to  take  his  place  when  he  began  to  tire  of 
these  lonely  vigils,  so  that  finally  one  night  he  fell  asleep  at  his  post.  He 
did  not  believe  that  he  had  slept  long,  but  when  he  awoke  and  looked 


CHINA. 


101 


around,  he  was  horrified  to  find  his  ginseng  all  gone,  even  to  the  smallest 
plant. 

"As  he  had  depended  greatly  upon  this  crop,  he  was  sorely  grieved 
over  his  loss,  the  more  so  because  it  had  been  snatched  from  his  very 
presence  while  he  had  fallen  under  the  influence  that  he  could  not  well 
withstand  longer.  But  his  countenance  brightened,  as  he  selected  from 
among  his  neighbours  him  whom  he  had  good  reason  to  think  had  com- 
mitted the  theft.     This  guilty  man,  as  the  other  looked  upon  him,  had 


VIKW    XKAU    SOdCHoW. 


long   been   unfriendly  to   him,  and  he   judged  him   capable   of   this  con 
temptible  act.     Without  loss  of  time  he  hastened  to  the  nearest  magistrate 
to  enter  his  complaint,  with  tears  in  his  eyes  and  venom  in  his  heart. 

"  Now  this  magistrate,  who  knew  both  the  aggrieved  and  the  accused, 
was  a  very  wise  man  —  wiser  than  the  people  knew.  He  began  to  question 
the  accuser  closely. 

" '  You  say  you  were  asleep  upon  3'our  watch,  and  yet  you  accuse  your 
neighbour  of  stealing  away  your  ginseng.  Pray  how  do  }ou  know 
this  ? ' 


" '  Because  he  has  only  hatred  for  me.  It  has  been  a  good  three  years 
since  he  has  deigned  to  speak  to  me.' 

"'And  you  think  this  sufficient  reason  for  him  to  steal  your  vegetable? 
Does  the  fact  that  the  man  is  your  enemy  show  him  to  be  a  rascal  and  a 
thief  ?  Stay,  do  not  think  me  unfaithful  to  my  duty.  Did  the  thief  leave 
no  clue  by  which  he  can  be  found  ?  ' 

"  '  Alas,  sir !  my  portable  hutch  is  the  only  thing  left  about  the  place.' 


BRIDGE  OVER  CREEK  AT  KIASHAN. 


" '  Very  well,  bring  that  to  me,  and  rest  assured  that  I  will  punish  the 
thief,  besides  restoring  to  you  your  stolen  ginseng.' 

"  The  man  thought  this  a  strange  request,  but  he  did  as  he  was  told, 
though  he  had  slight  hope  that  the  magistrate  would  fulfil  his  promise. 
His  lack  of  faith  changed  to  bitter  contempt  for  such  a  silly  officer,  when 
he  heard  that  his  portable  hutch  was  to  be  tried  in  court  the  following  day 
for  stealing  his  ginseng.  Who  ever  heard  of  such  a  thing  as  trying  an 
inanimate  object  for  theft !  Others  must  have  thought  the  same,  for  at 
the  hour  of  the  opening  of  the  court  the  building  was  crowded  with  the 
people  who  had  come  from  far  and  near  to  see  what  the  foolish  (he  was 


CHINA.  103 

no  longer  considered  wise)  man  was  going  to  accomplish  by  such  a  sense- 
less trial.  The  loser  of  the  ginseng  saw  among  the  spectators  the  one 
whom  he  believed  to  be  thief,  and  whom  he  was  resolved  to  have 
another  magistrate  arrest  before  he  could  get  away.  Bat  he  thought  it 
would  do  no  harm  to  wait  and  see  this  strange  trial  over. 

"  Well,  the  magistrate  ordered  the  constables  to  bring  the  hutch  into 
the  court,  when  he  proceeded  to  charge  it  with  the  misdemeanour,  follow- 
ing the  same  course  of  action  he  would  have  taken  had  it  been  a  person. 
Upon  proceeding,  and  the  hutch  failing  to  offer  any  defencCj  as  it  could 
not  well  be  expected  to  do,  he  commanded  the  constables  to  beat  it  till 
it  confessed  whom  it  had  seen  steal  the  ginseng,  or,  if  it  had  been  asleep  at 
its  post,  until  it  had  confessed  its  fault.  Then  the  officers  went  to  work 
with  a  merry  will,  dealing  such  terrific  blows  that  the  poor  hutch  soon  fell 
to  pieces.  The  crowd,  which  at  first  had  looked  upon  this  proceeding  with 
disgust,  could  no  longer  keep  quiet,  and  loud  and  prolonged  peals  of 
laughter  filled  the  court-room,  arousing  the  magistrate's  anger,  in  appear- 
mce,  to  such  a  height  that  he  ordered  the  gates  to  be  closed  so  that  none 
could  escape,  and  imposed  upon  the  persons  present  a  fine  of  a  pound  of 
ginseng ! 

"  As  the  fine  was  not  great,  the  people  soon  recovered  their  good  nature 
at  this  action  of  the  magistrate,  which  they  considered  in  keeping  with 
his  whole  course.  Of  course  few  there  had  any  ginseng  to  sell  or  pay  in 
fines,  and  the  magistrate  delegated  officers  to  accompany  parties  of  the 
condemned  to  buy  it  wherever  they  could.  In  this  way  the  fines  were 
obtained  and  paid  over  to  the  court,  until  not  an  ounce  of  ginseng  could 
be  found  in  those  parts.  Then  tlie  magistrate  very  good-naturedly  called 
the  plaintiff  to  his  side. 

"  'Can  you  pick  out  the  ginseng  of  your  raising?'  he  asked  of  the  man. 

"  *  Certainly,  sir.  It  was  a  kind  of  plant  that  I  obtained  elsewhere,  and 
there  is  none  like  it  raised  in  town.' 

" '  Select  a  few  bunches,  then.'  • 

"  When  the  man  had  done  this,  the  magistrate  looked  over  the  records 
he  had  carefully  kept,  and  found  out  the  name  of  the  greengrocer  who 
had  sold  this  vegetable  that  day.  This  man  was  speedily  arrested,  and, 
upon  pleading  his  innocence  in  the  matter,  gave  the  name  of  him  who 
had  sold  him  the  ginseng.     This  person  was  present,  and,  when  arrested, 


confessed  the  crime.  But  he  was  not  the  villager  the  plaintiff  had 
unjustly  accused.  As  the  magistrate  ordered  the  thief  to  be  punished 
for  his  offence,  he  said  to  the  poor  gardener : 

"  *  Now  you  see  how  a  little  prejudice  warped  your  judgment.  Because 
your  neighbour  did  not  like  you,  you  judge  him  as  a  thief.  Go  and  ask 
his  jDardon,  and  then  return  to  me  for  your  deserts  in  the  matter.' 
Trembling  with  fear,  the  plaintiff  humbly  sued  for  the  forgiveness  of  the 
suspected  neighbour,  who  freely  overlooked  the  mistake,  and   the  two 


COLLEGE    OF    MATHEMATICS,    WUCIIAXG. 


became  from  that  time  the  best  of  friends.  Thereupon  the  magistrate 
gave  to  the  poor  man  all  of  the  ginseng  which  had  been  accumulated 
from  the  odd  trial,  so  that  the  best  of  good  feelings  prevailed,  while  the 
magistrate  added  greatly  to  his -previous  credit  for  wisdom." 

Soon  after  we  come  upon  another  district  showing  distinctly  different 
characteristics  among  its  people  from  those  we  have  seen  below.  We 
learn  that  until  about  two  hundred  years  ago  these  provinces  of  Kwang, 
each  large  enough  to  be  considered  as  a  distinct  country,  were  known  as 
the  "  two  kingdoms  of  Yueh."     Two  centuries  ago  they  were  subjugated 


CHINA.  105 

by  the  northern  powers  and  brought  under  the  imperial  sway  of  Pekin. 
The  aborigines  have  intermarried  with  immigrants  from  Kwangtung, 
and  thus  a  mixed  race  is  found  to  some  extent.  These  people  are  desig- 
nated as  Man-tzu,  which  was  claimed  to  mean  "sons  of  barbarians." 
We  find  such  specifications  where  we  go  in  China,  until  we  understand 
that  the  term  of  "  barbarian "  or  "  savage "  is  applied  promiscuously 
wherever  the  inhabitants  have  become  "  civilised "  later  than  others. 
The  term  Man-tzu  is  now  generally  given  to  a  tribe  on  the  Yangtse  Kiang, 
which  has  been  a  source  of  considerable  trouble  to  the  government. 
There  is  one  thing  certain,  from  the  great  number  of  religious  temples 
scattered  over  the  country,  the  inhabitants  are  a  worshipful  people ;  and 
when  it  is  taken  into  consideration  that  many  of  the  sacred  buildings  are 
exceedingly  costly,  the  inhabitants  have  been  producers  of  wealth,  even 
if  to-day  the  common  masses  appear  poor. 

This  fact  is  apparent  all  along  this  noble  waterway,  where  we  see 
constant  evidence  of  a  richness  and  importance  which  has  largely  passed. 
Ruined  cities  meet  the  eye  at  intervals  singularly  regular  on  the  route, 
all  of  which  must  have  been  both  powerful  and  prosperous  sometime. 
One  of  these  we  saw  in  a  valley  of  Yunnan,  where  we  walked  deserted 
streets  that  formerly  must  have  been  thronged  with  hurrj'ing  feet,  and 
gazed  on  noble  walls  now  crumbling  away  and  echoing  only  to  the  sharp 
hisses  of  insects  and  the  whir  of  many  wings,  where  once  King  Trade 
sat  on  his  throne  and  the  working  multitudes  had  their  homes.  Tlie  air 
of  -desolation  hanging  over  the  pitiful  place  is  laden  witli  the  dust  of 
ages,  while  the  loneliness  of  the  abodes  is  felt  more  keenly  than  amid 
the  conical-shaped  graves  on  the  hillside  where  rest  the  silent  sleepers, 
some  of  whom  may  have  helped  build  these  same  abandoned  dwellings 
and  commercial  quarters. 

Go  Mung  assures  us  that  this  decay  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  carrying 
trade  between  Yunnan  and  Canton  has  been  changed  to  the  Yangtse 
Kiang.  This  country  is  not  populated  with  as  numerous  a  people  as  it 
could  well  support,  for  much  land  available  for  cultivation  is  undisturbed 
by  the  spade  or  the  plough.  Still  it  must  be  understood  tli.'it  it  is  a  hilly 
region,  whose  areas  suitable  for  cultivation  are  comparatively  small  in  pro- 
portion to  its  vast  extent.  The  navigation  of  this  great  watercourse  is 
susceptible  of  profitable  improvement,  and  the  something  like  two  weeks 


required  in  making  the  passage  could  be  reduced  by  several  days.  From 
Canton  to  Pose,  the  head  of  navigation,  it  cannot  be  far  from  eight  hundred 
miles,  there  being  an  ascent  of  five  hundred  feet.  The  scenery  continues 
beautiful,  often  being  grand,  and  as  one  passes  town  after  town  wasting 
of  a  lingering  death,  he  feels  a  sadness  over  the  decline  of  former  grandeur, 
and  longs  to  hear  the  shriek  of  the  iron  horse  breaking  the  solitude,  and 
wishes  for  the  energy  of  Yankee-land  to  revivify  the  scene  with  life 
and  activity. 


EXAMINATION    OF    A    PRISONER. 


No  doubt  the  character  of  the  inhabitants  has  been  greatly  influenced 
by  intermarriage  with  the  so-called  savage  tribes  scattered  over  the 
country.  Considering  how  little  these  people  can  understand  of  the 
government,  they  seemed  to  us  very  tractable,  though  Go  Mung  declares 
that  in  their  hearts  there  is  great  bitterness.  This  he  lays  at  the  door 
of  the  educated  class  near  the  head  of  the  empire  rather  than  to  the 
ignorance  of  the  far-distant  population,  who  are  in  reality  little  better 
than  aliens.  Mr.  A.  R.  Colquhoun,  who  is  perhaps  as  well  fitted  to  judge 
as  any  one,  believes  there  are  but  three  non-Chinese  races  in  southern 
China,  which  he  designates  as  the  Shan,  the  Lolo,  and  the  Miaotzu.  The 
first  he  judges  to  be  descendants  of  the  aborigines  of  Kwangsi.  The  origin 
of  the  other  races  is  more  uncertain.     On  the  whole,  very  little  actual 


CHINA.  107 

knowledge  has  been  obtained  of  the  inhabitants  of  these  regions,  and  none 
seem  to  know  less  about  them  than  the  powers  at  Pekin. 

Pose,  or  Pak-shik,  formerly  Pe-se,  stands  on  a  promontory  overlooking 
the  river,  the  narrow  valley  overhung  by  high  hills.  Above  the  town 
the  hills  appear  squat,  with  bluffs  and  knolls  of  soft  red  sandstone  under- 
laid with  white.  Speaking  of  this  sandstone  reminds  us  of  the  familiar 
and  sometimes  grotesque  shapes  these  rocks  assume  through  the  action  of 
wind,  storm,  and  the  atmosphere.  Within  a  week  we  have  seen  remark- 
able likenesses  of  an  alligator,  a  dog,  an  ox,  a  snake's  head,  a  man  and 
woman  (the  first  of  the  last  couple  being  the  Detained  Husband  seen 
opposite  Tsam-pan-hu,  and  looking  very  much  like  his  deserted  wdfe),  a 
bearded  sentinel,  and  now  a  graceful  swan,  which  stands  with  spread 
wings  as  if  about  to  soar  away. 

At  no  place  have  we  seen  a  prettier  stretch  of  the  river  than  here. 
Groves  of  tall  bamboo,  swaying  gracefully  in  the  gentle  breeze,  dot  the 
landscape,  with  all  the  beauty  and  languid  repose  belonging  to  the  far- 
famed  vistas  of  India's  sacred  river,  while  the  stream  here,  coming  down 
with  rapid  strokes  from  the  highlands  above,  winds  in  and  out  upon  the 
scene  like  a  huge,  silvery  serpent  stretched  at  full  length  across  the 
country.  The  town,  presenting  a  busy  aspect,  in  marked  contrast  to 
the  places  we  have  been  passing,  stands  on  the  northern  bank,  where 
stepping-stones  and  landing-steps  made  of  bamboos  lashed  together,  with 
here  and  there  sections  of  planks,  afford  a  simple  way  of  gaining  the  street 
that  comes  down  to  the  water's  edge.  Boats  are  moving  sluggishly  to  and 
fro,  or  lying  bottom  up  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  Men  and  women 
are  bustling  about,  trafficking,  chatting,  engaged  in  washing  clothes  in  the 
stream,  and  performing  countless  duties.  Lusty  children,  shouting  and 
laughing  in  high  glee,  play  in  the  sand  or  paddle  in  tlie  warm  water. 
They  appear  prettier,  handsomer,  and  healthier  tlian  those  seen  lower 
down  the  river,  while  many  of  the  women  are  especially  good-looking, 
their  loose  trousers,  turned  up  to  the  knees  as  they  move  in  tlie  water, 
displaying  pretty  ankles,  and  well-rounded  calves  witli  graceful  upward 
curves. 

This  is  the  end  of  the  first  stage  in  our  journey.  How  we  shall  manage 
to  keep  on  is  as  yet  unsolved.  But  as  we  have  got  along  so  far  witliout 
mishap,  we  settle  with  the  owner  of  the  ho-tau,  pay  up  the  tin-chai  in  ]nll. 


and  others  of  our  train,  especially  the  cook,  our  only  real  dread  being  that 
we  shall  have  to  part  here  with  Go  Mung,  who  has  actually  endeared  him- 
self to  our  hearts.  Just  now  we  doubt  if  he  is  thinking  of  us,  for  he  is  the 
hero  of  the  hour.  It  is  amusing  to  see  the  crowd  which  follows  him 
wherever  he  goes,  but  it  is  always  a  good-natured  mob.  This  is  saying  a 
great  deal  in  China,  where  one  never  knows  what  to  expect  of  a  crowd. 
At  the  close  of  the  day,  when  the  busy  portion  of  Pose  settles  down  to  a 
calm,  and  the  quiet  section  of  the  few  hours  before  grows  noisy,  we  are 
gladdened  by  the  sight  of  the  familiar  figure  of  the  Talebearer,  who  seeks 


STREET    PUNISHMENTS. 


US  at  our  stopping-place,  and  shows  that  he  has  not  forgotten  us  by  drop- 
ping squat  upon  the  floor.  Then,  as  he  removes  from  his  mouth  his 
tobacco-pipe  —  Go  Mung  scorns  opium  —  with  a  stem  a  yard  long  and 
bowl  the  size  of  a  thimble,  he  knocks  the  ashes  out,  sticks  it  in  the  leg  of 
his  stocking,  fastens  his  tobacco  pouch  to  a  hook  on  his  tunic,  and  begins 
the  following  tale : 

"  Most  noble  sir,  the  brief  tale  I  have  to  tell  to-night  illustrates  the 
power  of  good  over  evil,  which  is  ever  the  precept  that  our  teachers  seek 
to  show.  A  very  rich  man,  who  was  also  very  wise  and  good,  gave  a 
birthday  feast.  Many  of  his  friends  were  present,  and  the  rare  tributes 
they  brought  expressed  their  love  and  loyalty  to  their  host.     It  so  hap- 


CHINA.  109 

pened  that  while  the  merry  party  was  seated  at  the  banquet,  and  the 
servants  were  busy  attending  to  their  wishes,  a  lonely  wayfarer  came 
that  way.  He  was  hungry  and  ragged,  and  as  he  heard  the  expression 
of  joy  from  within  he  was  attracted  thither  with  a  feeling  of  malice  in  his 
heart.  Knowing  that  he  was  ill-fitted  to  join  in  a  respectable  festival,  he 
entered  the  house  by  stealth,  and,  climbing  upon  one  of  the  cross-timbers 


STREET    PUNISHMKNTS. 


overhead,  he  looked  down  upon  the  scene  of  enjoyment,  and  noted  with 
avaricious  gaze  the  well-spread  table,  and  not  less  than  the  food  the 
display  of  rare  and  costly  presents. 

"Immediately  his  thoughts  were  filled  with  a  desire  to  partake  of  a 
portion  of  the  feast,  and  to  carry  away  the  treasures.  He  had  made 
bolder  robberies  than  that,  and  he  resolved  to  remain  in  his  concealment 
until  the  guests  had  retired,  when  he  would  under^^ake  his  part  of  the 
work.     I  need  not  describe  to  you  his  eagerness  to  see  the  guests  go  away, 


but  he  curbed  his  impatience,  and,  hungry  as  he  was,  remained  silent  and 
motionless  until  the  last  visitor  had  departed,  and  even  the  host  himself 
had  retired,  leaving  the  presents  scattered  about  where  they  could  be  seen 
and  admired. 

" '  What  a  lucky  wight  am  I ! '  thought  the  thief,  as  he  prepared  to 
descend  from  his  lofty  perch.  '  If  I  must  partake  of  a  cold  banquet,  I 
shall  be  solaced  by  the  thought  that  when  I  go  away  it  will  be  with  the 
company  of  the  rich  presents  of  this  proud  old  mandarin,  whose  avarice 


PUNISHMENT    OF    THE    RACK. 


is  equalled  by  his  foolishness  in  leaving  all  this  tempting  display 
unwatched.' " 

"  He  had  barely  finished  his  soliloquy,  and  was  about  to  move  his 
benumbed  limbs,  when  he  was  amazed  to  see  the  rich  man  reenter  the 
room,  followed  by  his  servants,  all  of  whom  were  laden  with  their  arms 
full  of  steaming  dishes  of  food.  These  were  set  upon  the  long  table,  and 
the  servants  ordered  to  retire,  after  they  had  placed  the  new  feast  in 
readiness  for  two.  While  the  thief  was  looking  on  with  surprise,  the  host 
suddenly  looked  up  toward  him  and,  with  a  graceful  wave  of  his  hand, 
invited  him  to  come  down  and  be  seated  at  the  banquet! 

"  If  terrified  at  first  by  this  invitation,  the  thief  dared  not  refuse,  and  he 


CHINA.  ni 

obeyed  in  silence.  Then  the  rich  man  not  only  seated  him  at  the  table, 
but  assisted  him  to  the  best  there  was  at  the  feast.  He  chatted  with  him 
gaily,  without  hinting  of  the  dark  purpose  for  which  the  stranger  at  this 
strange  feast  had  lain  in  wait  so  long.  The  repast  over,  the  host  presented 
his  guest  with  a  bag  of  silver  coin,  and  bade  hiin  adieu  with  a  wish  for  his 
future  happiness.  Was  ever  thief  treated  like  that,  and  thus  cheated  of 
his  intended  prize  ? 

"The  years  flew  apace,  and  with  them  departed  the  fu  tsii  (riches)  of 
the  mandarin's  abode.  Through  no  fault  of  his  he  was  now  a  poor  man, 
and  his  many  relatives,  disappointed  at  losing  what  they  had  hoped  might 
prove  flattering  legacies,  turned  disdainfully  upon  him.  In  the  fulness  of 
his  grief  he  would  fain  have  slept  on  the  green  hillside  with  his  departed 
kindred,  whose  graves  he  had  tended  kindly. 

"  In  the  midst  of  his  distress,  however,  when  he  was  now  too  old  to 
retrieve  his  shattered  fortune,  a  stranger  stopped  before  his  door,  ])ut 
before  entering  he  sent  by  a  servant  a  gem  of  great  value.  Now,  if 
exceedingly  poor,  the  other  had  not  forgotten  his  dignity,  and  seeing  that 
the  gem  was  very  valuable,  he  sent  back  word  that  he  could  accept  no 
present  from  an  unknown  donor.  If  the  giver  was  some  one  whom  he 
had  ever  known,  he  would  gladly  welcome  him. 

"  Thereupon  the  stranger  sent  in  word  that  the  gentleman  forthwith 
order  a  banquet,  and  that  when  the  feast  was  spread  for  two,  he  shoukl, 
with  the  rare  j)oliteness  naturally  his,  invite  the  gentleman  on  the  roof 
beam  to  partake  of  refreshments.  Then  the  good  man  remembered,  and 
at  the  banquet  which  followed  he  was  told  how  his  kind  conduct  had 
saved  a  sinner,  and  that  now  this  person  had  returned,  after  many  years, 
rich  from  the  investments  he  had  made  of  the  bag  of  silver  money  given 
him.  If  the  .  people  wondered  at  tlie  good  fortune  come  to  the  wise 
mandarin,  they  all  declared  that  he  deserved  it." 


CHAPTER   X. 

SOME    CHINESE    CUSTOMS. 

FINALLY  the  arrangements  have  been  perfected  for  us   to  resume 
our  journey,  Tali,  in  the  province  of  Yunnan,  being  now  our  objec- 
tive point.     We  shall  be  able  to  make  this  portion  of  our  trip  partly 
by  boat,  and  to  finish  by  a  nine  days'  overland  tramp.     We  are  assured 
that  all  along  the  way  we  shall  meet  hostile  people ;  that  we  shall  pass 


*S^ 


PUNISHMENT    OF    THE    BAMBOO. 


through  the  very  birthplace  of  the  plague,  and  other  equally  fatal  diseases ; 
that  obstacles  of  many  kinds  will  constantly  confront  us,  and  we  are 
advised  to  turn  back.  It  is  certainly  unpleasant  to  contemplate  such  a 
prospect.  Then  we  recall  that  we  have  been  facing  just  such  alarms  ever 
since  we  left  Wuchau.  Pose  has  been  pictured  as  the  seat  of  disease, 
where  no  stranger  could  live  a  week !     We  have  braved  all  these  perils, 


i#* 


CHINA. 


113 


real  or  imaginary,  and  are  still  alive  and  hearty,  tliough  tired  of  our 
cook.  We  have  reason  to  believe  the  prospect  ahead  is  worse,  but  that 
is  no  more  than  we  expected.  Pose  is  as  healthful,  so  far  as  we  see,  as 
any  town  we  have  passed.  But  we  are  told  that  this  is  a  healthful  season 
—  uncommonly  so!  Out  in  Chay-song,  not  far  away,  the  people  are 
dying  at  a  rapid  rate  from  a  species  of  boils,  a  most  painful  and  peculiar 
epidemic. 

Go  Mung,  to  our  joy,  willingly  consents  to  keep  on  with  us.  Our  cook, 
also,  is  led  to  consent  by  an  increase  in  his  wages;  a  boat  is  hired  with 
a  crew  to  take  us  as  far  as  the  stream  can  be  folloAved,  a  two  days'  route ; 
then  six  days  of  marching  across  a  country  beset  by  dangers,  and  too 
broken  to  be  traversed  with  ease,  will  take  us  to  Kwang-nan,  in  the 
province  of  Yunnan.  So  we  part  with  our  tin-chai  witli  a  light  heart, 
and  look  for  the  last  time  on  the  temple  and  odd-looking  houses,  and  yet 
more  odd-appearing  people,  of  Pose. 

The  boats  used  on  these  inland  streams  are  mere  canoes,  covered  with 
thatch,  and  almost  identical  with  those  plied  on  the  rivers  of  Burma, 
except  that  they  are  broader  and  draw  less  water,  so  they  may  be  better 
managed  in  the  numerous  rapids. 

The  country  is  now  level,  except  for  the  numerous  rounded  knolls 
which  rise  abruptly  from  the  plains,  looking  like  huge  haystacks.  Tlie 
hillsides  are  covered  with  a  scrubby  growth,  which  looks  stunted  and 
forlorn,  until,  coming  down  to  better  soil,  the  bamboo  flourishes  in  all 
its  glory,  while  along  the  river  banks  a  stout,  dense  grass  nods  its  feathery 
crests  in  the  west  breeze  or  droops  under  the  midday  sun.  Suddenly  the 
shining  gravel  and  shingle  shoals  are  exchanged  for  the  rocky  rapids,  as 
the  scene  becomes  more  wild  and  rugged.  Were  it  not  for  two  features, 
the  bamboo  and  the  wide-hatted  peasant  seen  on  the  bank,  it  would 
require  no  grievous  strain  of  the  imagination  to  feel  that  we  were  advanc- 
ing up  one  of  the  New  Zealand  streams,  closed  in  by  precipitous  hills, 
and  frequently  running  sharp  curves  and  twists  in  the  foaming  river 
which  make  us  think  we  are  suddenly  coming  to  the  end  of  navigation, 
even  with  our  frail  craft.  We  are  now  amid  those  serrated  cliffs  for 
which  this  country  is  noted,  the  sheer  banks  of  the  stream  often  rising 
150  feet  above  the  water,  with  red  fronts  that  make  them  conspicuous  for 
a  long  distance. 


Signs  of  human  life  become  more  rare,  until  only  at  distant  intervals 
are  we  rewarded  by  the  sight  of  a  raft  moving  with  the  current.  One 
of  these  is  well  worth  special  mention.  It  contains  but  two  persons,  and 
both  of  these  belong  to  the  gentler  sex.  One,  sitting  at  the  stern  with  a 
long  steering-pole  in  hand,  is  an  aged  woman,  looking  far  from  attractive. 
At  the  forward  part  of  the  simple  craft  stands  a  fairer  person,  —  May 
with  December.  She  is  sixteen  or  seventeen  years  of  age,  has  a  perfect 
figure,  graceful  poise,  and  is  by  far  the  prettiest  maid  we  have  seen  since 


BOHEA    HILLS,    PROVINCE    OF    FO-KIEN. 


we  started.  Her  oval  face  is  set  in  a  frame  of  dark  hair,  ornamented 
with  silver  bangles,  while  bracelets  encircle  her  wrists,  and  anklets  of 
the  same  glistening  hue  sparkle  on  the  shapely  ankles  seen  vividly  in 
the  white  spray,  which  half  conceals,  and  then,  as  if  repenting  of  its 
jealousy,  discloses  their  rare  beauty.  The  raft  is  loaded  with  earthen 
pots  holding  their  little  store  of  rice,  which  they  are  taking  to  market 
hundreds  of  miles  away.  The  glimpse  of  the  pretty  face  is  seen  for  a 
moment,  a  sweet  voice  rings  out  with  the  music  of  song,  and  then  the 
craft  is  caught  in  the  swirling  eddies  of  the  river,  and  the  strangely  mated 
occupants  disappear   around  the   bend,   though   the   vision    of   womanly 


CHINA. 


115 


grace  and  loveliness  lingers  in  our  mind,  and  the  soft  melody  of  the  song, 
whose  words  we  cannot  understand,  remains  like  the  echoes  of  a  silvery 
bell  ringing  out  its  magical  notes  over  hillside  and  valley. 

We  notice  a  smile  of  disdain  on  the  lips  of  Go  Mung,  and  the  boatmen 
nod  their  heads,  one  of  them  saying  in  a  low,  compassionate  tone :  "  Poor 
savages ! " 

No  Chinaman  of  one  section  of  the  empire  has  a  higli  regard  for  the 


snoKES  OF  TiiK  SACi{p:n  island  ov  rooToo. 


women  of  another,  nor  can  they  understand  ;iii\-  fret'dom  in  the  conduct 
of  the  sex  contrary  to  their  own  perverted  ideas  of  modesty. 

The  timber  in  this  region  has  been  nearly  all  cut  off  on  the  lowlands 
and  the  hillsides,  though  the  mountains  are  still  clothed  in  their  evergreen 
forests.  In  every  direction  dark  lines  run  over  tlie  landscape,  wliidi 
Go  Mung  assures  us  are  the  tracks  of  some  fire  lilaze.  Here  and  there 
are  small  hamlets  scattered  over  the  scene.  At  one  place  a  joss-house, 
with  an  inscription  on  its  portals  made  uncommonly  l)old  hy  its  crimson 
characters,   stands   under   an    arcade   of    Ijamboo-trees   and   maples,   the 


branches  of  the  different  growths  interlacing  with  good  effect.  The 
houses  are  built  mostly  of  bamboo,  and  are  raised  on  bamboo  posts,  with 
verandas  running  the  entire  front  length.  The  dark  green  background 
of  the  landscape  is  brightened  in  places  by  the  red  "fire-wood  flower," 
affording  a  happy  relief  for  what  would  otherwise  be  a  monotonous 
picture.  The  river  now  narrows  to  less  than  two  hundred  feet,  while 
for  the  thirty  miles,  since  leaving  Pose,  we  have  ascended  five  hundred 
feet. 

We  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  readiness  and  swift  action  with  which  the 
boatmen  act.  There  is  no  lagging  on  their  part,  as  with  remarkable  skill 
they  row  or  track  together,  pole  or  lift  bodily  the  boat  at  such  places  as 
they  cannot  follow  the  stream.  Their  favourite  plan  is  to  charge  directly 
against  each  rapid  as  they  approach,  and,  being  dashed  by  the  current  over 
to  the  more  placid  side,  then  to  unite  in  pulling  the  craft  up  against  the 
stream. 

But  the  time  comes  when  we  have  to  abandon  these  boats,  to  begin  at 
last  the  stage  of  overland  travel.  Sedan-chairs  are  in  use  in  the  Yunnan 
district  by  every  one  who  is  of  any  account.  To  go  on  foot  shows  at  once, 
to  Chinese  eyes,  the  low  station  of  the  traveller.  Chinese  have  a  great 
aversion  to  walking,  even  for  a  short  distance.  Thanks  to  the  efforts  of 
Go  Mung,  we  soon  secure  assistants  for  the  next  stage  in  our  journey,  and, 
bidding  farewell  to  the  boatmen  who  have  served  us  so  well,  we  start  with 
our  new  servitors.  Though  the  means  of  travel  are  now  more  arduous 
than  by  water,  we  find  ourselves  brought  into  closer  companionship  with 
the  inhabitants,  and  thus  are  pleased  by  the  change.  But  we  are  made 
painfully  aware  of  China's  great  weakness  to  an  extent  which  we  have  not 
as  yet  stopped  to  realise. 

In  the  matter  of  opening  up  the  country  by  means  of  proper  communi- 
cations, the  empire  has  been  far  behind  the  worst  scheme  of  Spain.  Small 
wonder  the  great  nation,  with  its  almost  unlimited  possibilities,  has  re- 
mained an  unknown  quantity  under  the  condition  of  her  ways  of  transit 
and  the  utter  contempt  of  her  officials  for  doing  anything  to  improve, 
them.  In  the  first  place,  the  government  does  not  step  in  to  bear  the 
burden  of  keeping  the  roads  in  re'pair,  or  of  even  claiming  to  own  them ! 
The  land  remains  the  property  of  the  individuals  along  each  route,  and 
they  have  to  pay  taxes  on  it  as  they  do  on  the  rest  of  their  real  estate 


CHINA. 


117 


Government  does  compel  them  to  yield  land  enough  to  make  these  high- 
ways, more  properly  speaking  byways,  and  there  it  ends  its  care.  Under 
these  circumstances,  it  is  not  strange  that,  when  a  new  road  becomes  a 
necessity,  the  landowner  causes  it  to  run  along  one  of  the  borders  of  his 
boundaries,  so  that  his  neighbour  shall  be  obliged  to  furnish  one-half  of 
the  strip  of  territory  required.  It  is  easy  to  see  from  this  custom  that 
the  road  may  make  many  sudden  and  most  unexpected  angles  and  curves, 
often  going  a  long  distance  to  get  but  a  little  way  in  order  to  satisfy  the 


COURT  IN  MIONT  OF  A  PRIVATE  RESIDENCE. 


caprices  of  those  who  are  forced  to  yield  so  nnicli  or  so  little  for  the 
public  advantage,  always  losing  sight  of  the  fact  that  thcv  themselves 
share  in  the  common  benefit.  The  way  thus  grudgingly  afforded  is 
narrow  as  well  as  crooked,  seldom  if  ever  being  wide  enough  for  two 
teams  to  pass  each  other  without  one  driving  out  upon  the  cultivated  field 
adjoining.  To  prevent  this  the  farmer  cuts  a  ditch  along  the  roadside, 
and  the  complication  of  matters  grows  worse. 

When  it  comes  to  repairs  the  condition  is  fully  as  bad.     There  are  no 
side  strips  to  plough  up  and  afford  earth  with  which  to  fill  the  hollows  and 


gullies,  for  the  tract  allowed  for  the  road  was  not  wide  enough  for  this. 
As  the  man  who  owns  the  road  or  section  of  road  against  his  estate  is 
expected  to  keep  it  mended,  it  naturally  does  not  get  its  proper  dues,  hut 
is  suffered  to  wear  and  wash  out.  The  roadway  is  soon  lower  than  the 
adjoining  land,  and  wlien  the  rains  come  it  grows  to  be  the  natural 
channel  for  the  surplus  water.  This  eats  down  into  its  bed,  and  during 
the  wet  season  the  road  is  filled  wdth  running  water.     This  impromptu 

flood  way  empties  into  some 
larger  stream,  the  bed  with 
each  succeeding  rainy  sea- 
son becomes  deeper,  until  a 
river  may  open  into  it,  and 
what  was  once  a  road  be- 
comes the  course  of  one  of 
the  great  waterways.  This 
not  infrequently  happens. 
But  if  the  degeneration  of 
the  highway  does  reach  this 
extent,  the  old  road  is  com- 
pletely washed  out,  and  a 
new  one  has  to  be  contrib- 
uted by  another  landholder. 
Thus  the  intercourse  be- 
tween Tillages  near  each 
other  often  l^ecomes  diffi- 
cult, and  it  may  l^e  for 
months  not  only  impracti- 
cable but  impossible.  As  there  is  no  time  when  at  some  locality  or 
another  one  of  these  difficulties  is  not  lialjle  to  confront  the  traveller, 
the  delays  and  difficulties  of  making  a  long  journey  may  be  imagined, 
but  cannot  be  really  understood  until  the  person  has  attempted'  it. 

In  some  localities  the  curiosity  of  the  people  is  the  cause  of  incon- 
venience and  discomfort.  A  mob  will  often  press  around  the  place 
where  a  stranger  is  staying  until  the  door  is  broken  in  and  the  foremost  of 
the  crowd  falls  head-first  into  the  building.  Another  device  for  getting  a 
glimpse  of  the  foreigner  is  to  wet  the  paper  of  the  window,  or  to  scratch 


WHEELBARROW    RIDING    AT    SHANGHAI. 


CHINA.  1 1 9 

holes  in  the  plastering  of  the  walls.  This  is  often  carried  to  an  extent 
which  threatens  the  utter  ruin  of  the  partitions.  "We  remember  once 
having  such  a  surging  mass  of  jDeople  crowd  against  the  Ijuilding  where 
we  were  stopping  that  they  burst  open  the  frail  door.  As  the  leaders  fell 
at  our  feet  we  swiftly  rose  from  our  seat  at  the  ancient  table,  and  giving 
them  a  sharp  command  to  get  out,  the  crowd  took  to  their  heels.  At  least 
that  portion  nearest  the  door  did,  and  in  their  frantic  retreat  they  ran 
headlong  over  the  rear  portion,  so  that  in  less  time  than  it  has  taken  us  to 
describe  it  there  was  a  howling,  kicking,  struggling,  frightened  medley 
of  Chinamen  outside.  Those  who  stood  far  enough  away  to  escape  the 
onset  laughed  heartily  at  the  discomfiture  of  their  companions,  and  soon 
goodnature  was  restored,  and  we  were  left  alone. 

Tlie  Chinese  language  is  noted  for  its  poetical  expressions,  and  from 
that  of  the  lowest  subject  to  that  of  the  emperor,  each  name  has  some  in- 
dividual signification ;  the  designations,  also,  of  China's  cities  and  physical 
divisions,  of  her  rivers  and  mountains,  her  valley's  and  plains,  are  rendered 
more  impressive  by  some  meaning  that  is  half  concealed  but  full  of  poetry. 
But  the  happy  signification  of  the  Chinese  names  disappears  when  Ave  come 
to  the  country  villages,  and  our  bright  opinions  are  clouded  b}-  the  ha])- 
hazard,  elusive,  delusive,  and  mysterious  methods  used  to  designate  these 
hamlets.  There  is  neither  system,  beauty,  uniformity,  perspicuit}^,  nor 
poetry.  It  may  be  that  the  multiplicity  of  the  subjects  was  too  niucli  for 
the  non-inventive  faculty  of  John,  or  it  may  be  he  had  too  man}-  famous 
or  infamous  cousins  to  remember,  for  hamlet  after  hamlet  bears  the  sur- 
name of  some  person.  Unfortunately,  too,  there  seem  to  be  as  many 
Chang-Wangs,  or  Wang-Changs,  as  there  are  Smiths,  Jones,  and  Robinsons 
in  the  American  nomenclature.  Again,  these  self-same  centres  of  celestial 
inhabitants  are  liable  to  have  half  a  dozen  names,  and  tliese  suliject  to 
change  from  generation  to  generation.  There  is  yet  another  cause  for 
confusion  in  naming  tlie  public  places  of  trade  along  the  main  thorougli- 
fares,  which  are  often  designated  after  this  manner :  ''  Two-li  Sliop," 
"Five-li  Shop,"  "  Ten-li  Shop."  "Twenty-li  Shop,"  and  so  on.  Tliis 
appears  very  appropriate  at  first  and  easy  to  find  ;  but  upon  investigation 
it  is  learned  that  the  shops  on  every  road  running  from  a  certain  starting- 
point  are  given  similar  designations,  and  it  becomes  confusing  to  the  new- 
comer.    This  is  still  further  complicated  by  the  fact  that  the  adjoining 


villao-e  has  a  network  of  so-called  trade-houses  named  in  the  same  manner. 

o 

This  is  repeated  over  and  again,  until  the  traveller  looks  upon  them  with 
dismay,  and  resolves  to  end  all  inquiries. 

In  the  Yu-sang  district  it  was  our  fortune  to  find  scattered  along  our 
route  in  regular  order  such  an  array  of  names  as  the  following :  "  Red  Dog 

Village;"  "Broken 
Tooth  Village," 
from  the  fact  that 
a  prominent  man 
there  once  broke 
one  of  his  front 
teeth;  "Village 
under  the  River," 
from  an  account  of 
a  great  freshet  at 
one  time ;  "  Man 
with  the  Iron  Hand 
Village,"  "  Talking 
Horse  Village," 
from  a  tradition  of 
a  horse  that  talked  ; 
"  Boy  in  River  Vil- 
lage," from  the  fact 
of  a  boy  once  fall- 
ing; into  the  river 
there  ;  the  more 
disreputable  desig- 
nation of  "'  Man 
with  a  Black  Eye 
Village,"  where  it 
is  said  there  once  lived  a  big  bully  who  got  the  worst  of  it  in  a  fight 
and  received  a  black  eye ;  "  Lost  House  Village,"  where  a  dwelling  once 
slipped  from  its  precarious  perch  on  the  river-bank  into  the  stream  and 
floated  away,  and  other  names  quite  as  odd  and  ridiculous  almost 
without  number. 

As  might  be  expected  from  their  superstitious  natures,  the  Chinese  are 


BLIND    FORTUXK -TELLER. 


CHINA. 


121 


firm  believers  in  the  potency  of  charms.  This  behef  is  shared  by  the 
Shans  of  Southern  Yunnan,  where  all  kinds  of  amulets  are  worn  by 
the  people  to  ward  off  real  or  imaginary  dangers  and  diseases.  We  were 
offered  the  horn  of  a  female  deer  as  a  o-narantee  that  we  should  be  able  to 
make  our  journey  with  greater  ease  and  rapidity,  and  the  person  who 
proposed  the  trade  seemed  very  much  surprised  at  (jur  refusal.  Time  and 
again  we  were  offered  charms  that  would  protect  our  life  against  all 
dangers,  and  finally,  acknowledging  a  doubt  of  the  invulnerability  of  the 


STREET    COXJUKING    I'EUEORMANCE,    SHANGHAI. 


talisman,  we  agreed  to  buy  one  if  we  could  see  it  tested.  As  an  exj)eri- 
ment,  we  suggested  that  tlie  owner  jump  from  a  high  cliff  near  by.  (Iciicnd- 
ing  upon  his  talisman  to  save  his  life.  The  man  rpiickly  left,  though  we 
offered  to  pay  his  funeral  expenses  if  his  talisman  failed  to  do  its  duty. 

Speaking  of  a  funeral,  we  witnessed  one  of  these  odd  features  of  Chinese 
life  to-day,  as  we  passed  one  of  the  numerous  hamlets  along  our  route. 
In  front  of  the  train  of  mourners  is  borne  a  sedan-chair  made  of  a  bamboo 
frame  covered  with  paper,  paper  banners,  which  denote  that  the  deceased 
was  a  man  of  consequence,  flaunting  alongside.     Next  come  two  couples 


scattering  money  made  of  paper,  paper  houses,  and  figures,  some  of  which 
are  of  a  pattern  too  grotesque  to  describe.  Just  behind  these  comes  the 
most  striking  feature  of  the  procession,  a  horse  of  life-size,  bridled  and 
saddled  in  readiness  for  its  rider,  while  a  groom  walks  beside  leading  the 
animal  by  the  bit,  both  man  and  beast  made  so  realistically  from  stout 
paper  on  a  framework  of  bamboo  that  we  have  to  look  the  second  time 
before  we  think  it  other  than  actual.  On  occasions  like  this,  we  are 
informed  by  Go  Mung,  it  is  the  custom  to  make  paper  effigies  of  whatever 
the  deceased  loved  most  about  his  house,  the  practice  being  to  offer  what- 
ever may  be  deemed  necessary  for  the  well-bemg  of  the  dead  in  the  life  to 
come.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that,  however  extravagant  these  offerings 
may  sometimes  seem,  they  are  burned  at  the  closing  of  the  ceremony,  with 
the  exception  of  tlie  edibles,  which  are  saved  for  the  feast  to  follow. 

The  Chinaman  who  has  not  been  contaminated  by  foreign  influences 
considers  the  most  important  act  of  his  life  to  be  that  of  preparing  for  this 
ceremony  which  is  to  follow  the  breaking  of  the  thread  that  is  to  send  him 
into  the  life  unknown.  To  live  pretty  comfortably,  according  to  his 
simple  ideas,  possess  fairly  good  health,  die  with  becoming  dignity,  and  be 
buried  with  appropriate  display,  comprise  the  principal  aims  and  objects  of 
existence  on  earth.  He  may  live  in  a  dwelling  of  the  poorest  construction 
and  made  of  the  vilest  material,  but  his  coffin  must  be  the  best  that  can  be 
procured  with  the  means  at  command.  Often  this  needed  article  is  bought 
at  some  time  when  the  purchaser  hopes  his  death  to  be  still  far  distant. 
Thus  the  rich  man  will  pay  his  thousand  dollars  for  a  casket,  while  the 
poor  man  will  do  even  more,  —  give  his  all  for  one ;  and  cases  are  not 
uncommon  where  a  son  has  sold  himself  into  slavery  that  he  might  obtain 
a  coffin  as  good  as  he  wished  for  the  clay  of  his  father. 

Scarcely  has  the  breath  left  the  body  before  a  friend  of  the  deceased 
rushes  to  the  house-top,  and  looking  into  the  north  lifts  the  skirts  of  his 
coat,  and  holding  them  in  the  air  cries  three  times  the  name  of  the  dead. 
Turning  to  the  south,  he  folds  the  garment  slowly  up,  and,  descending  with 
measured  steps,  places  the  garment  over  the  face  of  the  dead,  where  it  is 
allowed  to  remain  under  the  belief  that  it  will  restore  life  to  the  inanimate 
form  if  such  be  the  pleasure  of  the  great  ruler  of  life  and  death.  Mean- 
while an  altar  has  been  built  in  one  room  of  the  house,  around  which  the 
bereaved  ones  gather  to  mourn  their  loss.     Garments  of  mourning  are 


CHINA 


123 


made  in  white,  and  about  these  robes  and  hoods  are  worn  girdles  of 
hemp. 

Believing  that  the  deceased  will  need  food  on  his  long  journey  into 
spirit-land,  corn  and  rice  are  jjlaced  in  his  mouth,  and  sometimes  silver  and 
gold.      On  the  day  of  the  funeral  cooked  pruvisiun  is  placed  Ijeside  the 
cofhn.      As  in  the 
procession    we    no- 
ticed, a  man  leads 
the  way,  scattering 
paper   money  as  a 
peace-offering  to  the 
spirits  that  may  be 
about.      Effig-ies  of 

o 

men,  women,  ele- 
phants, and  tigers 
are  often  borne  in 
the  procession,  the 
object  of  these  being 
to  drive  away  evil 
spirits,  or  to  give 
honour  to  the  dead. 
This  custom  comes 
from  the  religion  of 
Buddha.  The  grave, 
whose  site  is  selected 
with  great  care,  is 
made  deep  and  on 
as  "  sightly "  an 
eminence  as  pos- 
sible,    where     the 

sleeper  may  be  supposed  to  be  gazing  upon  some  beautiful  landscape, 
while  the  spot  itself  may  be  dry  and  retired.  The  grave  always 
looks  down-hill,  except  in  rare  cases.  The  mounds  are  of  truncated 
shape,  and  the  stones  are  inscribed  with  proper  inscriptions.  Lime  is 
strewn  freely  over  the  earth  used  to  fill  the  opening,  wliile  crackers  are 
lired,  prayers  solemnly  mumbled,  and  paper  models  burned  as  offerings. 


GRAVES    XEAU    XINOl'O. 


If  the  dead  belonged  to  the  better  class,  banners  and  devices  illustrating 
the  rank  of  his  family  are  carried  in  the  funeral  train.  Altogether  it  is 
an  affair  in  which  neither  expense  nor  effort  is  considered,  so  that 
many  a  rich  man  has  made  himself  poor  in  order  to  bury  his  father 
properl}^,  and  a  larger  percentage  of  the  poor  have  been  stricken  with 
poverty  from  the  expense  of  interring  a  friend  or  relative. 

Go  Mung  told  us  to-day  some  pretty  conceits  of  these  people  in  regard 
to  the  rainbow,  which  is  called  "  the  spirit  bridge  to  heaven."  Happy 
indeed  is  he  whose  spirit  takes  its  flight  while  the  beautiful  arch  spans 
earth  and  heaven.  He  tells  a  story  of  how  a  mouse,  which  dearly  loved 
its  master  while  he  was  on  earth,  climbed  into  heaven  when  the  latter 
died,  by  means  of  a  rainbow,  and  gnawed  at  the  door  of  the  Celestial 
Home  until  its  master  was  freed  from  his  prison  and  his  soul  returned  to 
its  body  here. 

Tlie  rainbow  is  held  in  high  veneration  all  over  the  Far  East,  as  it  is  in 
many  other  parts  of  the  globe.  If  the  Greenlander  and  Slavonian  look 
upon  it  as  the  road  of  souls,  so  the  Shans  and  Chinese  name  it  the  spirit 
way ;  if  the  peasant  of  Ukraine  sees  the  angels  descend  by  it  to  obtain 
water  from  the  earth  to  refill  the  great  reservoir  of  heaven,  so  as  to  afford 
them  the  dews  and  the  showers,  so  does  the  husbandman  of  Japan  behold 
in  it  that  unfailing  sign  by  which  he  knows  the  earth  will  be  blessed  with 
copious  rains;  if  in  it  the  Samoyedes  behold  the  border  of  the  "  garment  of 
the  supreme  being,"  the  Caribs  the  basket  of  their  god  Joulouka,  so 
does  the  Kamschatkan  see  his  god  Bilouca,  so  does  the  Samoan  recognise 
in  it  his  god  of  war  Pava,  and  its  glistening  arch  his  bow ;  if  the  ancient 
Inca  looked  upon  it  as  one  of  the  servants  of  the  sun,  and  reserved  for 
it  a  niche  in  his  temple  at  Quito,  the  Tahitian  considers  it  to  be  one  of 
the  children  of  his  god  Taaroa ;  if  in  Austria-Hungary  it  is  known  as 
the  bridge  by  which  St.  Elias  descends  from  heaven,  the  thunder  being  the 
roll  of  his  chariot  wheels,  and  if  the  peasant  of  Russia  knows  it  as  the 
"  inclined  bridge,"  New  Zealanders  regard  it  as  a  ladder  by  which  their 
chiefs  climb  to  the  sky,  and  certain  tribes  of  the  Philippines  look  upon  it 
as  a  stairway  by  which  the  souls  of  those  who  die  violent  deaths  may 
reach  heaven. 


METHODIST    MISSION    SCHOOL    AT    KIXKIANG. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


THE    HIGHLANDS    OF    CHINA. 


THE  province  of  Yunnan  comprises  mainly  an  uneven  highland,  from 
which  rise  several  mountain  ranges,  whose  most  lofty  peaks  reach 
a  height  above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow.  Between  the  lofty 
barriers  are  deep  ravines,  whose  bottoms  afford  the  beds  for  some  of  the 
big  rivers  of  this  country,  tlie  Mekong,  or  Cambodia,  the  Sahveon,  and 
Shweli.  In  tlie  interior,  particularly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  capital  of  the 
province,  are  several  lakes  of  considerable  size.  There  arc  also  laiLic  ])r(> 
ductive  plains,  rich  valleys,  and  sunny  slopes  teeming  with  good  crops. 

The  carrying  of  the  country  is  done  largely  by  caravans  drawn  b}-  nmles 
or  horses,  generally  the  former,  which  are  exceedingly  sagacious  in  picking 
their  way  over  the  uneven  pathways.  Decked  out  in  head-gear  of  red 
braid,  with  bright-coloured  plumes  waving  above  the  shoulders,  while  blue 
beads  decorate  the  harness  at  every  available  place,  they  make  a  pictur- 
esque appearance,  and  the  gentle  symphony  of  tiny  bells  lends  an  alpine 
air  to  the  picture.  The  rate  paid  for  transportation  is  lifty  cents  a  day 
for  each  animal. 


The  scenery  here  reminds  us  of  Switzerland,  the  villages  clustering 
under  the  hillsides,  the  rivers  rushing  noisily  along  their  rocky  channels, 
while  above  the  harmonious  sounds  of  nature,  tinkling  musically  on  the 
scene,  fall  the  notes  of  the  soft-toned  bells  of  the  mules  and  horses  belong- 
ing to  the  caravans. 

Presently  this  charming  situation  is  exchanged  for  the  barrenness  and 


WELLINGTON    STREET,    HONG  -  KONG. 


dark  dreariness  of  the  "  black  country."  This  is  in  the  region  of  great 
forest  fires,  whose  work  of  desolation  has  reached  to  the  Eden-like  valley 
of  Kweichau,  an  earthly  paradise  w^iere  beauty  reigns  supreme  and  an 
abundant  harvest  is  the  reward  of  labour. 

Above  Kweichau,  with  the  south  of  Yunnan  territory  two  weeks'  jour- 
neying to  our  left,  hamlets  and  villages  scattered  along  the  pretty  stream 
of  this  valley  repeat  the  features  seen  on  the  West  River.  We  see  again 
the  windings  of  the  tortuous  river,  the  shingle  shoals,  the  rocky  w^alls, 


CHINA.  127 

narrowing  the  stream  to  half  its  greatest  width,  the  rapids,  the  foaming 
waters,  the  high-walled  gorges ;  anon  the  forest  creeping  closely  down 
upon  the  river's  banks,  the  network  of  delicate  foliage  such  as  is  seldom 
seen  in  a  semi-tropical  country,  the  deep  green  of  cultivated  meadows  lend- 
ing to  the  wild  mountain  scene  a  home-like  air  amidst  an  isolation  that 
is  sublime.  The  loneliness  of  the  region  is  increased  by  the  decay  and 
devastation  lingering  over  the  towns  and  villages,  which  show  upon  the 
grandeur  of  an  ancient  greatness  the  ruins  of  war-like  raids  made  by 
hostile  armies.  The  ruin  may  have  been  the  result  of  the  rebellions  of 
the  Mussulmen,  or  the  uprisings  of  roving  clans  of  warriors,  or  both.  Be 
that  as  it  may,  the  evidence  of  what  they  cost  the  inhabitants  is  here ;  the 
outlying  walls  bear  ample  proof  of  severe  battering,  many  of  the  temples 
are  broken  down,  while  the  yamens  of  the  mandarins  are  wrecks  of  their 
former  beauty,  and  a  vast  number  of  homes  are  laid  in  waste. 

We  are  pleased  by  the  greater  freedom  allowed  the  women  of  this 
region,  who  come  boldly  forward  to  greet  us,  instead  of  skulking  behind 
some  obstacle  in  the  distance.  They  are  not  plain  by  any  means ;  many 
of  them,  on  the  contrary,  are  really  pretty.  They  have  bro-wn  hair,  which, 
with  the  majority,  is  gathered  at  the  back  of  the  head  and  brought  in  a 
single  plait  over  the  forehead.  Dark  blue  turbans  are  bound  over  this 
wealth  of  cranial  adornment.  They  wear  large  earrings  of  gold  or  silver, 
while  close-fitting  jackets  are  held  at  the  nock  by  large  silver  buttons,  a 
row  of  these  bright  fastenings  running  down  over  the  right  breast.  Petti- 
coats, reaching  from  the  waist  to  a  little  below  the  knees,  are  looped  up 
in  front  so  as  to  disclose  gray  trousers  worn  underneath.  Tradition  says 
they  wear  no  underclothes.  The  sombreness  of  this  attire  is  relieved 
by  the  bright  buttons  mentioned,  and  by  gay-coloured  or  white  borders 
around  the  sleeves  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  jacket.  The  most  of  them 
are  barefooted,  though  in  some  instances  the  feet  are  covered  witli  rough 
stockings  and  ill-fitting  shoes.  As  a  rule,  particularly  among  the  younger 
women,  they  are  good-natured,  light-hearted,  and  l)uxom. 

One  of  the  uncomfortable  features  of  this  country  is  the  ma-tien,  or 
stable  inn,  a  one-roofed,  shed-like  structure  spread  over  a  large  area,  in 
which  guests,  baggage,  and  animals  constituting  tlie  caravan  are  stowed 
away.  Climbing  a  bamboo  ladder,  we  gain  our  bedchamber,  which  is 
simply  a  loft  in  the  barn,  where  the  fumes  and  smoke  of  the  lower  floor, 


with  its  dumb  guests,  send  up  their  bountiful  supply  of  odours.  We  sleep 
upon  mats  which  we  dare  not  inspect  for  fear  of  arousing  tlie  army  of 
insects  and  vermin  we  know  only  too  well  are  lurking  there,  while 
overhead  in  this  cramped  apartment  dingy  rafters  are  within  reach  of 
our  arms. 

We  eat  our  breakfast  from  small  tables  set  upon  low  stools,  while  we 
sit,  watched  by  a  throng  of  curious  natives,  on  low  benches  or  trestles, 


BOOM    ACROSS    PEARL    RIVER,    BELOW    CANTON. 


similar  to  those  holding  up  the  beds.  Among  our  observers  we  see  several 
pretty  girls,  with  light  skins,  regular  features,  and  piquant  ways.  Follow- 
ing our  gaze.  Go  Mung,  evidently  wishing  to  make  our  stay  as  pleasant 
as  possible,  points  out  one  of  the  prettiest  maids  dressed  in  white,  whose 
demeanour  is  a  singular  combination  of  coyness  and  curiosity.  He  then 
begins  a  tale  of  chivalrous  adventure,  in  which  she  figures  as  heroine, 
against  a  band  of  inland  pirates  overrunning  the  country  a  short  time 
before.     Learning  of  one  of  their  intended  raids  against  a  neighbouring 


A  .  TSSI^JSKa^^A '» 


CHINA.  129 

hamlet,  through  one  of  its  young  men  who  had  fallen  desperately  in  love 
with  her,  she  resolved  to  save  the  town,  even  if  she  lost  her  lover  by  it. 
Thus,  without  saying  a  word  to  any  one,  she  managed  to  catch  one  of 
the  half -wild  ponies  roaming  near  l)y,  and,  putting  a  halter  on  his  head, 
sprang  upon  his  bare  back,  to  be  Ijorne  swiftly  away  upon  her  merciful 
errand. 

But  it  quickly  proved  to  be  a  dangerous  mission.  She  had  not  gone 
far  before  she  found  her  path  beset  by  three  of  the  marauders  who  had 
started  to  join  their  companions.  Urging  her  wald  steed  forward,  she 
rode  over  the  trio,  and,  with  their  loud  cries  of  vengeance  ringing  in  her 
ears,  sped  on.  Although  she  had  escaped  the  men,  she  was  startled  to 
find  that  the  halter  had  either  broken  or  slipped  from  the  head  of  the 
pony,  and  she  was  now  borne  on  at  the  mercy  of  its  own  frenzied  mood. 
To  add  to  her  discomfiture,  night  was  fast  setting  in,  with  a  storm  about 
to  break  upon  the  earth  with  such  fury  as  the  tempests  of  these  plains 
know  so  well.  But  she  did  not  become  frightened  and  throw  herself 
from  her  steed,  which  w^ould  have  ended  her  life.  She  retained  a  firm 
seat,  and  resolved  to  make  the  pony  perform  his  part  of  the  work  she 
had  chosen  to  do.  If  it  offered  to  veer  from  the  proper  course,  she  would 
immediately  reach  out  a  hand  to  cover  the  eye  on  that  side,  and  thus  she 
kept  the  creature  sweeping  ahead  at  the  top  of  its  speed  in  the  direction 
she  wished  to  go.  Notwithstanding  the  breakneck  pace  at  which  it  flew 
along,  darkness  and  storm  set  in  before  she  had  reached  her  destination, 
and  she  found  herself  at  the  most  hazardous  place  of  her  risky  ride.  The 
pathway  here  crossed  a  turbulent  stream,  which  from  the  sound  of  its 
rushing  water  she  knew  was  uncommonly  high,  by  means  of  an  old  shaky 
bridge  that  had  long  been  unsafe.  What  if  it  were  gone  —  swept  away 
by  the  swollen  stream?  These  thoughts  flew  very  rapidly  through  her 
mind,  as  she  rode  down  to  its  edge,  and  the  next  moment  felt  it  quiver 
and  sink  beneath  the  pony's  hoof  strokes.  But  the  span  was  short,  and 
she  was  beginning  to  think  it  would  be  passed  in  safety,  when  suddenly 
the  pony  was  struggling  in  the  river  and  she  was  flung  over  its  head  into 
the  space  beyond.  Fortunately,  she  fell  upon  the  soft  ground  at  the  edge 
of  the  water,  and,  suffering  no  more  serious  effect  than  some  severe  bruises, 
she  scrambled  to  her  feet  in  a  moment.  After  a  vain  search  for  her  pony, 
which  she  feared  was  drowned  in  the  furious  stream,  she  resumed  hei 


journey  on  foot.  As  she  was  then  near  lier  destination,  she  reached  the 
imperilled  town  in  season  to  warn  its  inhabitants,  while  she  was  thankfully 
praised  for  her  heroic  endeavours. 

We  thank  Go  Mung  for  his  stirring  tale,  which  serves  a  good  purpose 
in  drawing  our  attention,  to  a  certain  extent,  from  our  miserable  break- 
fast, and,  with  a  last  look  at  the  heroine  of  these  strange  people,  we 
resume  our  journey,  soon  after  entering  a  forest  of  fir-trees,  with  high 


-QL  Al;b:  DKOP  NET  WITH  BAMBOO  FRAME. 


ranges  of  mountains  in  the  background.  Farther  on  we  are  shown  by 
Go  Mung  the  ruined  bridge,  where  the  maid  in  white  rode  at  the  risk 
of  her  life,  and  that  is  the  last  we  hear  of  her. 

A  little  farther  along  we  see  one  of  the  prettiest  sights  of  the  entire 
route,  consisting  of  a  series  of  waterfalls  no  less  than  a  dozen  in  number, 
one  tumbling  into  the  arms  of  the  next  in  a  pretty  confusion  of  misty 
waters  and  arches  of  spray,  the  combined  distance  of  the  list  making  a 
grand  fall   of    150   feet.       Added  to  this  sparkling  overflow    of   silvery 


CHINA. 


131 


water  is  the  offering  of  a  volume  of  nearly  tlie  same  size  from  a  subter- 
ranean source,  which  bursts  from  its  inner  fountain  in  a  spiral  curve  with 
all  the  colours  of  the  rainbow.  We  reluctantly  turn  from  this  happy 
scene,  and  a  short  distance  above  cross  the  stream  on  a  trembling  bamboo 
bridge  weighted  by  stone  gabions. 

Among  the  native  tribes  we  notice  some  that  wear  horns  on  their 
turbans,  while  others  have  queues  or  pigtails  hanging  down  between  the 
shoulders.  Soon  after  we  meet  with  the  Hwa  Miao  tribe,  where  every  one 
seems  especially  fond  of  flowers.  This  is  another  people  where  the  women 
are  accorded  greater  privileges  than  are  seen  nearer  the  coast.  They 
dress  quite  becomingly  in  blue  jackets,  sldrts,  and  aprons,  with  white 
leggins. 

Go  Mung  tells  us  of  the  singular  custom  still  prevailing  here  with  these 
people,  which  is  called  by  them  convade,  when  the  husband  takes  to  his 
bed  and  remains  there  six  weeks,  his  wife  during  the  time  working  in  the 
field.  This  practice  is  intended  to  make  more  even  the  trials  of  the  sexes, 
and  exemplifies  the  couplet  of  Hudibras  which  says : 

"  Chinese  goe  to  bed 
And  lie  in  their  ladies'  stead." 

We  have  spoken  of  Yunnan  country  as  being  a  broken  territory,  and 
everywhere  we  see  the  truth  of  this.  Hills  from  five  hundred  to  one  thou- 
sand feet  in  height  rise  on  every  hand,  nearly  all  presenting  volcanic 
appearance.  These  cone-like  hills  are  black,  barren,  and  desolate,  with 
singular  markings  in  red  where  the  clay  of  that  colour  has  washed  down 
the  sides  in  streaks.  The  water  here,  as  it  is  almost  everywhere  in  China, 
is  far  from  being  a  wholesome  draught.  The  peasantr}"  drink  tea  uni- 
versally, while  in  the  provinces  of  Kwangsi  and  Kwangtung  they  drink 
hot  water.  Water  is  seldom  drunk  in  China  unless  it  has  been  boiled  or 
distilled. 

As  we  pass  through  the  villages,  curious  people  seek  every  way  to  get 
a  glimpse  of  us,  some  by  perching  themselves  amid  the  branches  of  con- 
venient trees,  and  others  from  behind  bushes  and  buildings.  The  hill- 
people  are  inclined  to  warlike  waj^s,  and  the  emperor  has  never  been  able 
to  harmonise  this  turbulent  element  with  his  ideas  of  government,  so  he 
has  contented  himself  by  letting  them  severely  alone. 


We  reach  the  plain  of  Mentzu  after  a  tedious  march  across  five  miles  of 
sterile  country.  This  level  tract  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  a  mountain 
range  rising  some  two  thousand  feet  abruptly  above  the  plain.  Most  of 
the  house  roofs  in  this  region  are  flat,  the  walls  being  generally  of  lime- 
stone rubble,  laid  in  cement,  with  alternate  rows  pointing  in  opposite 
directions.  The  doors  are  made  mostly  of  poles  lashed  together.  The  flat 
roofs  are  terraced  w^ith  a  coarse  substance  laid  on  without  any  attempt  at 
evenness.  This  district  is  noted  for  its  linked  lakes,  separated  by  narrow 
ridges  of  barren  earth  raised  into  the  dreary  mounds  so  common  in  this 

country.  Though 
O^  ;         ^        ^^     1       so  sterile,  it  might 

be  made  more 
fertile  by  inun- 
dation, the  local- 
ity being  w^ell 
adapted  for  irri- 
gation. This 
whole  region  was 
once  known  as 
Chryse,  or  the 
"Golden  Land," 
to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  ancient 
T  n  d  1  fl         Wb  ere 

CAST-IRON    TOP    OF    FORMER    PORCELAIN    PAGODA,    NANKIN.  J- li  y.i  l  cv .  u  x±K.^^^ 

the  gold  came 
from,  and  whither  it  has  fled,  remains  the  mystery,  though  Yunnan  has 
rich  deposits  of  minerals  in  some  parts. 

Wherever  one  goes,  one  finds  that  the  Chinese  either  have  or  persist  in 
claiming  to  have  the  densest  ignorance  in  regard  to  the  geography  of  the 
country,  the  ways  of  getting  through  the  empire,  and  the  people  one  is 
likely  to  meet.  This  becomes  one  of  the  worst  features  of  Chinese  travel. 
As  remote  as  this  country  is  from  the  sea-coast,  the  Cantonese  traders  pene- 
trate here  on  their  business  trips,  walking  much  of  the  way  with  their 
packs  on  their  backs,  often  along  mere  paths  winding  over  mountainous 
regions  and  through  wide  stretches  of  unproductive  country.  Every  year 
some  four  or  five  hundred  of  the  adventurous  peddlers,  bound  together  as 


CHINA. 


133 


a  sort  of  secret  brotherhood,  going  in  parties  of  from  half  a  dozen  to  a 
score,  cover  every  part  of  the  provinces  of  Yunnan  and  North  Tonquin. 
Some  of  them  work  northward  into  the  valley  of  the  Yangtse  Kiang,  and 
others  as  far  south  as  Burma.  They  carry  such  articles  as  we  should 
style  Yankee  notions,  —  needles,  pens,  paper,  matches,  small  hand-mirrors, 
etc.,  always  going  on  foot  and  often  carrying  their  pack-loads  for  hundreds 
of  miles.     It  is  said  some  of  these  trips  prove  very  profitable,  while  others 


ITINKKANT     RESTAUHA.N  1 . 


turn  out  most  unsatisfactory  to  the  adventurous  peddler.  Each  party  has 
a  leader,  or  head-man,  who  lays  all  the  plans  and  looks  after  the  welfare 
of  tlie  men  under  him.  He  is  often  the  ])rincii)al  owner  of  the  goods. 
One  consideration  which  induces  them  to  follow  this  course  is  their  escape 
from  paying  the  duties  they  would  otherwise  have  to  meet  on  their  mer- 
chandise. 

We  often  meet  a  market-woman  struggling  along  to  some  place  of  trade, 
perhaps  twenty  miles  away,  loaded  down  with  rice,  eggs,  poultry,  baskets 


of  firewood,  and  great  coils  of  grass  rope.  Now  and  tlien  we  see  some 
poor  peasant  staggering  under  a  load  of  fagots  eight  feet  in  length  hy 
half  that  in  width,  packed  in  a  wooden  frame,  and  held  in  place  by  stout 
thongs  of  hide,  with  strips  of  the  same  material  passing  over  the  shoulders 
and  binding  this  enormous  load  of  nearly  half  a  cord  in  measurement  in 
position.     Again  we  meet  long  caravans  of  mules,  horses,  or  oxen,  laden 


VIEW    KEAR    NANKIN. 


with  packs  of  salt.  One  day  we  saw  as  many  as  a  hundred  oxen  all  loaded 
thus,  and  moving  at  a  snail's  pace. 

A  peculiar  feature  of  South  Yunnan  is  the  pai-fang,  or  stone  portal, 
erected  in  honour  of  political  position,  old  age,  or  widowhood,  which 
seem  to  share  the  same  grade  of  distinction.  But  we  notice  that  the  last 
is  most  common,  judging  by  the  number  of  pai-fangs.  Gaudy  colours  pre- 
vail everywhere  in  China,  often  spoiling,  according  to  Occidental  ideas  of 
harmony  and  beauty,  what  would  be  otherwise  a  pretty  picture. 

Now  we  reach  the  Yuan-chiang  plain,  where  we  see  pines  of  several 


CHINA.  135 

kinds,  some  of  the  largest  being  six  feet  in  girth.  The  foHage  is  of  a  deep 
green,  very  thick  and  beautiful,  with  graceful  curves  to  many  of  the 
branches  which  remind  us  of  the  trained  trees  in  the  gardens  of  Japan. 
The  Yuan-Kiang  valley,  the  Sang-ka  or  Red  River  of  the  French,  is 
gained  after  a  tedious  descent.  High  mountain  ranges  shut  it  in,  the 
slopes  of  the  uplands  are  terraced  by  flat-roofed  cottages,  placed  in  settings 
of  dark  green  woods,  while  profusions  of  roses  and  white  azalias  grow 
to  the  edge  of  rocks  and  cliffs,  making  them  look  like  huge  flowering 
tables  and  walls.     The  Yuan  is  the  noblest  of  Yunnan's  great  rivers. 

We  are  now  in  the  track  of  the  learned  Garnier  and  his  intrepid  com- 
panions, who  made  such  a  resolute  attempt  to  explore  this  region  for  the 
benefit  of  the  French  in  1867.  There  were  five  of  these  pathfinders. 
The  tomb  of  one,  De  Lagree,  the  leader,  we  see  at  Saignon.  Two  others 
of  this  little  band  fell  by  the  way,  one  of  these  the  noble-hearted  and 
educated  Garnier,  while  the  fourth,  Le  Carne,  died  soon  after  he  reached 
home,  from  injuries  received  on  the  journey.  After  reaching  Saignon, 
under  the  shadow  of  the  loss  of  their  beloved  leader,  the  others  pushed  on 
into  the  valley  of  the  Yangtse  Kiang,  where  we  hope  to  go.  They  were 
two  years  —  long  and  tedious  years  —  on  the  trip.  At  that  time  tlie 
French  were  doing  their  best  to  secure  the  best  route  through  the  country, 
and  boasted  that  they  had  succeeded,  though  succeeding  events  have 
failed  to  meet  their  sanguine  expectations.  It  should  be  added,  perhaps, 
that  Garnier's  expedition  was  made  during  the  reign  of  a  bloody  civil  war, 
when  a  fearful  pestilential  disease  was  ravaging  Yunnan,  while  they  were 
here  during  the  rainy  season. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

THE    LAND    OF    THE    ''  GOLDEN    TEETH." 

THE  river  Yuan  where  we  cross  it  at  Yuan-Kiang  is  really  impassable 
for  canoes  down  as  far  as  Manhao,  the  stream  passing  almost 
constantly  between  high  hills,  and  often  under  lofty  cliffs,  where 
the  current  is  very  rapid,  having  an  average  descent  of  twenty  feet 
to  the  mile.  The  district  has  an  unfavourable  reputation  for  miasma,  so 
that  travellers  abandon  their  canoes  at  Manhao,  and  push  on  overland 
to  Mentse,  Linan,  and  northward  to  Yunnan  City,  if  that  be  their  destina- 
tion, Our  course  is  westerly  through  Taling,  and  then  more  southerly 
to  the  river  Li-hien,  or,  as  it  is  known  in  the  province  of  Tongking, 
Sang-bo,  which  means  Black  River.  This  stream  eventually  becomes  a 
tributary  of  the  Sang-ka,  or  Red  River,  already  mentioned.  The  Li-hien 
has  its  course  about  midway  between  the  Yuan-Kiang  and  the  Mekong 
River  to  the  west,  which  is  larger  in  its  volume  than  both  of  the  others. 
In  the  next  valley,  on  the  west,  the  broad  Salween  flows  sluggishly  down 
into  British  Burma,  finally  to  render  over  its  treasures  to  the  Bay  of 
Bengal.  The  Mekong,  though  separated  for  a  long  distance  from  the 
other  by  a  narrow  background  of  earth  and  rock,  flows  through  the  French 
territory  of  Siam,  or  Cochin  China,  and  empties  into  the  Sea  of  China. 

This  recalls  the  bitter  lesson  that  China  learned  in  breaking  faith  with 
Great  Britain,  and  ceding  to  the  French  Tongking,  after  which  she  made 
reparation  by  giving  to  the  English  the  rich  Shan  state  on  the  south  of 
Yunnan.  The  Salween  runs  through  the  heart  of  this  district  from  the 
extreme  north  to  the  ferry  of  Kun-lung,  where  the  Mandalay  railroad, 
nearing  completion,  connects  Rangoon  and  the  Bay  of  Bengal  with  the 
valley  of  China's  great  river  at  a  point  navigable  for  big  steamers.  It  is 
sixty  miles  air  line  from  Kun-lung  to  the  Yunnan  frontier.  This  district 
is  believed  to  abound  in  gold  and  silver,  but  it  has  not  been  explored 
sufficiently  to  warrant  this  statement.  Once  the  iron  horse  penetrates 
these  provinces,  as  he  is  surely  destined  to  do  at  no  very  distant  day, 


CHINA. 


137 


and  the  barriers  of  the  wilderness  which  separates  this  region  remote 
from  the  seashore,  and  the  shackles  of  a  people  too  long  bound  in  supersti- 
tion, will  be  broken.  Whatever  of  wealth  Yunnan  possesses  will  then  be 
found,  and,  what  will  be  of  greater  importance,  the  ancient  empire 
will  be  crossed  by  a  line  of  direct  and  easy  communication  from  the 
mountains  and  plains  to  the  sea. 

As  we   move    slowly  along  we   are   attracted   by   the   bright-coloured 
foliage  on  every  hand.     Roses,  dazzling  azaleas,  and  a  sort  of  large  pink 


SCENE    NEAR    SHAXdIIAI. 


of  a  deep  red  are  common,  wliile  among  the  woods  we  are  gladdened  by 
the  sight  of  several  varieties  of  pines,  ash,  and  Ijirdi.  tlie  last  especiall}' 
shapely  and  happy  in  their  colouring. 

Upon  reaching  tlie  Li-hien  River,  we  head  northward  toward  Talifu, 
situated  on  the  shore  of  a  lake  by  the  same  name.  Tn  doing  this  we  leave 
the  walled  town  of  Puerh  a  few  miles  below  us.  We  are  told  that  it  has 
few  attractions,  having  been  laid  in  waste  not  long  since  by  one  of  the 
frequent  civil  wars  that  have  been  such  a  curse  to  this  country.  An 
interesting  region  lies  to  the  west ;  Burma  is  on  the  south.     A  hundred 


miles,  or  such  a  matter,  on  the  southeast  is  the  tea-growing  district, 
whence  comes  the  noted  Piierh  tea.  We  have  not  failed  to  notice  that 
no  poppy  has  been  seen  since  leaving  the  hills  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Yuan-Kiang.  The  iron  trade  is  carried  on  in  this  region  to  a  considerable 
extent,  while  copper  comes  from  Yunnan  and  lac  from  the  Shan  country. 
Tea  and  cotton,  however,  are  the  main  products  of  this  district. 

We  frequently  meet  with  men  wearing  the  dark  blue  turban  of  the 
Mussulman,  while  the  sturdy  physique,  the  flashing  black  eye,  the  straight 
nose,  and  haughty,  defiant,  independent  demeanour  afford  a  marked  con- 


WATER    COOLIE,    SHANGHAI. 


trast  to  the  oblique  eye,  the  sallow  countenance,  the  slender,  emaciated 
figure,  and  the  cringing  air  of  the  Chinese.  An  evidence  of  the  former 
greatness  of  this  country's  inhabitants  is  furnished  by  the  ruins  of  noble 
stone  bridges  and  mighty  causeways.  But  if  a  powerful  people  once 
lived  here,  they  left  a  fallen  race  incapable  of  keeping  in  repair  the  proud 
structures  that  they  built.  Everywhere  in  Yunnan  falls  the  shadow  of 
a  greatness  long  since  departed.  This  is  shown  in  another  way  by  the 
few  priests  to  be  seen  at  the  numerous  temples  scattered  over  the  province, 
where  only  periodical  visits  are  made  by  the  canonical  fathers. 

The  people  are  kind  and  hospitable.     The  women,  who  are  especially 
attractive,  wear  a  striking  headdress,  a  sort  of  tiara  of  silver  bound  about 


CHINA. 


139 


the  head  under  a  conical  crowned  turban.  They  are  a  musical  people, 
and,  although  unable  to  read  and  write,  they  speak  with  pride  of  their 
ancestors  who  were  masters  of  the  arts. 

Well-cultivated  and  fertile  fields  are  seen,  bordered  at  places  by  bamboo 
growth,  its  light  green  set  off  with  good  effect  by  the  dark  foliage  of  the 
pines  on  the  hillsides.  Beyond  these  rise  the  majestic  mountains  whose 
purple  slopes  deepen  into  black  toward  their  summits. 

We  soon  find  a  different  people,  whose  men  wear  enormous  bamboo 
hats  with  rims  two  feet  in  width,  while  their  waists  are  girdled  by  brio-ht- 
coloured  sashes,  from  which  protrude  the  handles  of  stout  knives  of  the 
Burmese  pattern,  called  dhas.  These  men,  who  ride  fine  horses  with 
grace  and  distinguished  skill,  carry  conspicuously  that  peculiar  article  of 
common  use,  the  mandoline,  which  is  capable  of  being  utilised  as  a  pipe 
for  smoking  opium,  a  fan  to  cool  the  heated  brow,  and  an  umbrella  to 
protect  the  bearer  from  sun  and  rain. 

Presently  the  river  passes  through  a  most  picturesque  region,  along  a 
channel  smooth  and  wide,  where  the  shallow  water  glides  with  a  soft 
murmur,  or  between  high  cliffs  of  rock,  its  course  narrowed  to  one-fourth 
its  natural  width,  the  foaming  waters  driven  headlong  down  long  series 
of  cataracts,  tumbling  furiously  on  the  jagged  focks,  gasps  for  breath  a 
moment,  whirls  around  as  if  to  get  its  bearings,  then  plunges  down  another 
rocky  stair,  recovers  itself  as  before,  and  repeats  its  mad  dash  for  freedom 
over  and  over,  until  finally,  churned  into  foam  and  mist,  it  reaches  a  still 
pool  in  some  secluded  spot,  where  it  smooths  itself  into  sleep,  before 
running  the  gauntlet  of  another  race-course  of  falls.  The  roar  of  the 
stream  suggests,  in  places,  the  noise  of  angry  beasts  clamouring  for  some- 
thing to  devour,  and  then  all  this  wild  tumult  gradually  dies  awa}',  and 
the  silence  of  the  primeval  forest  drops  on  the  scene.  The  dark  |)ines 
afford  a  cooling  shade  at  the  hottest  noonday,  while  in  the  distance  the 
mountains  thrust  their  silver  tips  into  the  clear  ^ky.  Our  way  winds  now 
close  to  the  bauk  of  this  beautiful  stream,  or  anon  over  a  spur  of  the  hills 
beyond  sight  and  sound  of  the  capricious  companion  we  have  learned  to 
like  so  well,  and  whose  endless  song,  if  strained  at  times,  has  become 
welcome  music  in  our  ears. 

The  flora  of  this  region  is  especially  rich,  roses,  })ink  and  white 
camelias,   rhododendrons,  wild    raspberries,  and  strawberries   being   seen 


on  every  hillside,  while  firs  of  several  varieties,  the  cypress-trees,  numerous 
kinds  of  cactus,  a  kind  of  palm  known  as  the  "  fairy,"  and  the  round- 
topped  or  "  genii 
fists "  make  up  the 
border  to  the  for- 
ests on  the  uplands. 
We  see  to-day  in 
full  blossom  the 
orange  flower,  which 
measures  a  foot 
and  a  half  in  length 
and  six  inches  in 
width,  a  beautiful 
object. 

This  region  is 
peopled  by  a  race 
called  Lolos,  many 
of  whom  live  in 
large,  two  -  storied 
houses,  with  elabo- 
rate carvings  over 
the  door,  with  eaves 
having  fantastic 
paintings  on  the 
plastering  and  with 
mouldings  done  in 
fancy  work.  But 
the  attractiveness  of 
all  this  artistic  orna- 
mentation is  dimin- 
ished by  the  corrod- 
ing touch  of  time, 
which  is  laid  everywhere  in  this  land  on  the  work  of  man. 

Before  we  have  reached  this  romantic  region,  Go  Mung  has  awakened 
our  interest  by  tales  of  a  fair  Lolo  maiden,  who  delights  to  escort  parties 
of  strangers  through  that  part  of  the  province.      She  is  pictured  by  his 


CHINESE    WOMAN    WITH    BOUND    FEET. 


CHINA.  141 

graphic  tongue  as  being  very  beautiful,  but  capricious,  having  the  habit 
of  "  dropping  one  of  her  petticoats  when  anything  displeases  her."  Just 
what  this  last  means  we  are  still  in  ignorance,  as  the  Talebearer  either 
could  not  or  would  not  tell  us,  and  the  bewitching  maid  was  either  in 
ignorance  of  our  coming  or  was  too  coy  to  seek  us.  "We  did  not  see 
any  one  that  could  possibly  fill  the  place  glowingly  pictured  by  Go  Mung. 
The  Lolo  women  love  to  deck  themselves  out  in  silver  ornaments. 
Among  them  we  noticed  one,  who  had  small  claim  to  be  the  belle  of  the 
village,  according  to  our  judgment,  but  who  wore  finger  rings  of  enormous 
size,  bracelets  of  great  width  and  weight,  earrings  of  massive  pattern, 
and  about  her  forehead  a  wide  band  wrought  in  silver,  and  yet  another 
pendent  from  her  hair. 

Another  stage  of  our  journey  takes  us  into  a  wild,  broken  region,  where 
the  population  is  sparse  and  the  inhabitants  poor,  living  mainly  on  maize, 
the  only  crop  that  can  be  raised  successfully,  though  other  cereals  are 
cultivated  more  or  less.  Here  are  mountains  of  perpetual  snow,  the 
peaks  of  a  long  range  rising  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  and  upwards.  From 
the  summit  of  one  of  the  lesser  mountains  one  looks  down  on  a  vast  sea  of 
uplands,  the  range  after  range  of  high  ridges,  all  trending  north  and 
south,  having  the  appearance  of  huge  billows  sweeping  in,  one  after 
another,  from  the  hazy  horizon  on  the  east,  the  ocean  of  space. 

This  part  of  Yunnan  really  belongs  to  the  extensive  plateau  of  Tibet, 
and  was  at  one  time  a  kingdom  of  itself,  with  Tali  for  its  capital.  Later 
this  has  been  the  battle-ground  between  the  Mohammedans  and  the  Chinese, 
and  the  burial-place  is  still  pointed  out  near  the  town  where  mau}^  of  the 
latter  race  sleep  for  all  eternity  by  the  side  of  their  hated  enemies.  Some 
of  the  stones  placed  to  mark  the  graves  of  .these  soldiers  are  now  being 
used  in  building  the  fences  of  adjoining  ^elds.  So  quickly  do  men  forget 
even  those  who  fought  for  them.  The  slabs  are  of  mar1)le,  and  some  bear 
inscriptions  in  Mohammedan  characters. 

Tali  has  been  an  important  city  in  the  troublesome  times  not  so  very 
long  since  passed,  and  it  has  a  checkered  history.  To-day  it  is  one  of  the 
largest  centres  for  trade  in  the  province.  It  has  one  building  which  is 
unequalled  in  this  country.  This  is  the  college  building,  Avhich  was 
erected  by  a  man  who  was  both  feared  and  hated  by  tlie  people.  His 
name  was   Yang-yu-ko,   and  he   was   at    the    time    military   governor  of 


Western  Yunnan,  but  he  was  more  unfavourably  known  as  the  "  Chinese 
Bluebeard."  It  was  his  ambition  to  secure  the  independence  of  the 
province  and  place  himself  at  its  head.  As  his  headquarters  he  built  the 
fine  structure  mentioned,  with  the  peasants  and  coolies  compelled  to  work 
for  him  at  a  mere  pittance.  His  infamous  nickname  he  won  from  his 
inordinate  propensity  to  create  a  harem  which  should  outrival  that  of 
Solomon,  and  so  far  and  wide  did  he  carry  this  intention  that  not  a  woman 
in  the  province  dared  to  consider  herself  safe  from  him.     ComjDlaint  was 


'•IsiHiawMi 


^mummmw^mmmr'"''''^   '   '  Hi 


NANKIN    UNIVERSITY. 


finally  made  to  the  government,  and  in  the  midst  of  his  high-handed  rule 
he  was  recalled.  Thinking  it  was  better  to  yield  than  to  rise  in  revolt 
before  he  was  prepared  to  do  so,  he  went  peacefully  to  Pekin,  and  the 
inhabitants  of  the  west  country,  very  much  to  their  relief,  saw  him  no 
more.  His  fine  palace  he  gave  to  the  college,  and  he  donated  a  certain 
sum  toward  its  maintenance,  hoping  thus  to  assuage  the  hatred  he  had 
aroused  against  himself.  The  grand  structure  w^as  built  after  the  Chinese 
plan  of  public  buildings,  with  yamens,  paved  courts,  and  a  garden.  The 
carvings  and  ornaments  on  the  doors  alone  must  have  cost  a  princely 
sum. 


CHINA.  143 

Tali  was  for  many  years  noted  for  its  fairs,  to  which  a  large  crowd 
came  annually  from  far  and  near.  An  important  feature  of  the  occasion 
were  the  Burmese  pedlers.  The  grounds  are  the  grades  of  the  Tali  Hills 
on  the  west  of  the  town.  Near  the  entrance,  bespeaking  their  present 
prestige  as  well  as  being  relics  of  former  power,  stand  Mohammedan 
minarets.  These  are  built  square,  and  there  are  several  of  them.  One 
standing  inside  a  small  fort  on  the  old  battle-field  is  encircled  by  cornices 
which  decrease  in  size  as  they  rise,  giving  the  appearance  of  a  gradual 
tapering  from  the  base  up.  These  fairs  are  losing  their  former  attractions 
year  by  year. 

If  the  centre  of  considerable  trade,  Tali  has  no  big  shops,  nor  does  it 
show  any  particular  commercial  bustle.  The  main  street  is  of  creditable 
width  and  cleanliness,  considering  that  it  is  in  a  country  noted  for  the 
filthy  habits  of  the  inhabitants.  A  marble  quarry  near  by  affords  the  most 
profitable  industry.     Nearly  everything  is  of  Chinese  make. 

This  is  the  land  of  "  Golden  Teeth,"  spoken  of  by  Marco  Polo.  The 
name  came  probably  from  the  habit  of  the  people  of  chewing  betel  and 
lime,  which  gives  the  teeth  and  gums  a  yellowish  hue,  mistaken  by  the 
great  explorer  for  a  foil  of  gold  wrapped  over  the  first.  This  practice  of 
chewing  betel  with  lime  is  common  with  the  Burmese  and  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Shan  country,  as  well  as  with  those  of  West  Yunnan. 

The  temperature  of  this  vicinity  is  one  of  remarkable  equality,  there 
being  but  little  variation  on  account  of  the  protection  afforded  the  valley 
from  the  disagreeable  winds  of  the  country  to  the  west  by  the  mountains. 
As  many  as  three  crops  are  harvested  here  from  the  same  land,  —  first  a 
crop  of  poppy,  which  is  followed  by  one  of  wheat,  and  that  l)y  rice. 

On  the  whole,  Yunnan  does  not  offer  very  flattering  prospects.  In  the 
north  the  population  is  scattering  and  in  poor  circumstances,  which 
indicates  that  the  physical  features  of  the  country  are  not  the  l)est. 
Western  Yunnan  is  more  favoured  in  its  natural  bounties,  but  even  here 
the  promise  is  not  high.  There  is  some  mineral  wealth  stored  here,  but 
the  Chinese  have  never  tried  to  develop  the  mines.  In  tlie  south  the  wet 
season  continues  from  the  last  of  May  to  the  middle  of  September,  but  the 
fall  of  rain  is  not  heavy.  Except  where  broken  by  the  mountains,  a  steady 
breeze  sweeps  over  the  country  through  the  dry  period,  and  the  temperature 
is  comfortable  and  invigorating. 


What  we  have  said  of  the  population  along  our  route  we  judge  applies 
to  the  whole,  with  but  slight  modifications.  Except  in  the  cities,  where 
the  Chinese  predominate,  the  aboriginal  races,  distinct  from  one  another, 
prevail  as  the  ruling  people.  These  are  better-looking,  have  stronger 
physiques,  do  not  crush  their  feet,  wear  more  picturesque  clothing,  and  are 
more  friendly  to  the  foreigners  than  the  Chinese.  But  owing  to  the  lack 
of  trade,  which  is  explained  by  the  lack  of  proper  means  of  transj)ortation, 


BARBER    AND    MASSEUR     IN    TEMPLE    GROUNDS. 


they  are  mainly  poor.  Another  cause  of  this  general  poverty  has  been 
explained  as  arising  from  the  numerous  rebellions  among  the  people,  and 
the  raids  into  the  country  by  stronger  tribes.  The  products  of  the  plains 
are  rice,  maize,  peas,  beans,  sugar,  poppy,  and  tobacco  plants.  A  large 
percentage  of  the  cultivated  land  is  seeded  to  poppy,  the  most  of  which  is 
sent  out  of  the  province.  Sometimes  two  crops  of  this  plant  are  raised  on 
the  same  piece  of  ground,  but  more  often  the  first  crop  is  followed  by  a 
crop  of  peas.     Such  European  fruits  as  apples,  pears,  *plums,  and  peaches 


CHINA. 


145 


are  found  growing  fairly  well,  while  prominent  among  the  flora  are  the 
roses,  rhododendrons,  and  pink  and  white  camellias. 

It  has  taken  ns  over  seventy  days  to  get  from  Canton  to  Tali,  forty 
of  these  having  been  made  by  boats,  and  thirty-two  by  travel  in  sedan- 
chairs  and  on  foot.  But  the  prospect  for  better  ways  of  penetrating  this 
country  are  already  planned,  and  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  this  great 
overland  journey  will  be  accomplished,  perhaps,  in  as  many  hours  as  it  has 
taken  us  days.     A  railroad  has  been  proposed  to  run  from  Pak-hoi,  on  the 


MOMIMKNI       K)     A     WOMAN     i)NK     lllNDUl   I>     VKAU>     oI.D. 


shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Tongking,  to  connect  witli  Xaning.  and  from  tliat 
city  along  almost  the  route  we  have  followed  to  Po-se,  at  tlie  headwaters 
of  West  River.  There  will  be  a  short  branch  of  this  road  l)iiilt  to  (-(.nnect 
with  the  road  already  in  operation  between  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
Tongking  and  Ling-chai  on  tlie  southwest  l)(>r(ler  of  Kwangsi.  There  is 
now  being  built  another  railroad  from  the  lieart  of  Tongking  to  '\  unnan 
city,  capital  of  the  province.  Another  railroad  is  proposed  ironi  Siaui  to 
Yunnan  City,  passing  through  Puerho  and  across  our  path.  Still  another 
is  to  run  westward  from  Yunnan   to  Mandalay  in  Upper  Burma.      Tali 


will  be  connected  to  the  road.  Besides  these,  Yunnan  is  to  have  two 
ways  of  getting  into  the  rich  valley  of  the  Great  River.  So  when  we  go 
next  time  to  Yunnan  we  expect  to  travel  behind  the  iron  horse,  and  to 
find  this  remote,  inland  capital  a  bustling  railroad  centre.  While  an 
important  item  in  regard  to  the  matter  of  time  and  comfort  will  have 
been  gained,  we  shall  have  lost  the  picturesque  part  of  the  trip,  missed 
the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  river  boatmen,  and  have  only  a  prosaic  £tory 
to  tell. 


BKIDGE    ACROSS    GKANl)    CANAL, 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


THE  RIVER  OF  THE  GOLDEN  SAND. 


GO  MUNG,  who  lias  now  become  our  tin-cliai,  guide,  and  confidential 
adviser,  reminds  us  that  the  season  is  too  fleeting  to  remain  long 
in  the  former  capital  of  the  Hui-Huis,  improperly  called  Mo- 
hammedans by  Europeans,  if  we  would  enjoy  to  their  fullest  extent  the 
attractions  of  the  wonderland  of  China,  the  valle}'  of  the  Great  River. 
Hence  we  bid  an  early  adieu  to  Tali-fu  —  noted  for  its  ancient  fairs  and 
its  monuments  of  a  religion  foreign  to  its  people,  as  well  as  for  having 
been  the  seat  of  government  of  the  miscalled  Sultan  Suliman  and  the 
rebellious  faction  that  waged  their  war  for  years,  until  nearly  every  town 
within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles  was  desolated  —  and  start  overland  across 
the  great  watershed  of  the  Burmese  borderland  of  Yunnan. 

Tali-fu  has  a  population  of  about  three  thousand  Chinese  families,  and 
not  quite  as  many  native  inhabitants.  The  city  is  situated  a  little  less  than 
seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  is  overlooked  b}'  the  "  Snowy 
Mountains,"  which   reach   an  altitude  of   about  fourteen  thousand  feet. 


We  pass  along  within  sight  of  Lake  Tali,  whose  shore  is  now  nearly  two 
miles  from  the  limits  of  the  city,  though  it  is  believed  that  once  the  water 
reached  to  the  town.  We  are  following  in  the  footsteps  of  the  intrepid 
expedition  led,  in  1868,  by  the  gallant  Lieutenant  Gamier,  who  was  the 
first  to  penetrate  the  Tibetan  border.  Along  nearly  this  same  course 
came  Captain  Gill,  in  1877  ;  he  was  compelled,  however,  to  abandon  his 
survey  of  the  Kin-sha  Kiang  to    its    source,  on  account  of  war  in  that 


RUINED    PAGODA    NEAR    CHEFOO. 


section,  and  to  find  his  way  out  in  the  direction  of  Burma.  Although  the 
first  to  bring  back  written  accounts  of  this  isolated  region,  these  adven- 
turous explorers  found  others  already  ahead  of  them,  and  Lieutenant 
Garnier  relates  how  he  discovered  one  of  those  lonely  missionaries  in  this 
country.  Upon  having  learned  by  accident  that  a  solitary  preacher  by  the 
name  of  M.  Leguilcher  was  living  in  that  vicinity,  he  sent  forward  a 
messenger  to  announce  his  coming,  and  prepared  to  meet  this  zealous 
anchorite,  describing  his  approach  and  meeting  as  follows : 


CHINA.  149 

"  We  were  moving  with  considerable  difficulty  along  the  northern  shore 
of  Lake  Tali,  when  one  of  our  guides  pointed  out  to  me,  some  hundred 
metres  below,  a  little  platform  hung  as  it  were  in  mid-air  against  the  flank 
of  the  mountain ;  there  were  a  few  trees  planted  in  rows,  and  a  group  of 
houses  surmounted  by  a  cross.  The  sight  so  thrilled  me  that  I  instantly 
started  to  run  down  the  winding,  breakneck  path,  and  before  long  I  came 
in  sight  of  a  man  with  long  beard  standing  on  the  edge  of  the  platform, 
who  was  attentively  regarding  me.  In  a  few  minutes  more  I  was  by  his 
side.  '  Are  you  not  Pere  Leguilcher  ? '  I  asked.  '  Yes,  sir,'  he  replied, 
slowly,  as  if  at  a  loss  to  understand  how  I  should  know  him.  '  But  you  ? ' 
My  dress,  my  unkempt  appearance,  my  rifle  and  revolvers,  must  have 
made  me  seem  to  the  peaceful  father  like  some  buccaneer  strayed  into 
that  lonely  region.  '  I  am  he  who  sent  you  word  of  my  coming ;  I  am 
Lieutenant  Garnier,  an  officer  of  the  French  navy,  whom  I  trust  you  have 
only  a  kind  greeting  for,  although  I  come  unexpected  and  unheralded.' 
For  reply  he  grasped  my  hand,  and  then  silently  folded  me  to  his  breast. 
I  saw  the  tears  coursing  down  his  bearded  cheeks,  and  I  could  not  see  for 
those  in  my  own  eyes.  I  knew  I  had  found  a  warm  friend,  while  it  was 
not  difficult  to  understand  the  cause  of  his  emotion." 

Could  the  experiences  of  these  hardy  missionaries  have  been  preserved 
by  written  account  they  would  have  afforded  a  most  thrilling  and  interest- 
ing work.  The  fortunes  of  M.  Leguilcher  were  among  the  most  exciting 
and  hazardous.  During  the  protracted  uprising  of  the  Hui-Huis,  which 
has  been  called  the  Mohammedan  rebellion,  he  underwent  many  hardships 
and  was  in  constant  danger.  At  one  time  driven  from  his  abode,  he  was 
forced  to  flee  into  the  forest,  where  he  built  him  a  hut  of  cinnamon- 
trees,  when,  finally  coming  to  the  verge  of  starvation,  he  began  to  eat 
his  house  ! 

This  is  a  country  of  strange  surprises,  of  remarkable  freaks  of  nature, 
of  striking  proofs  of  the  strength  and  glory  of  the  inlialDitants  wlio  once 
occupied  this  broad  and  diversified  territory,  but  whose  descendants  have 
found  it  a  precarious  abiding-place.  One  of  the  strangest  features  of  this 
region  are  its  waterways.  It  is  never  safe  to  count  on  the  continued 
progress  of  a  stream.  Rivers  appear  without  any  previous  indication  of 
their  arrival,  and  as  suddenly  and  mysteriously  disappear.  A  river  may 
divide  into  two,  aided  perhaps  by  the  track  of  some  caravan  train  and  the 


limestone  formation  of  its  banks.  The  truant  brancli  flows  sullenly  away 
until  finding  union  witli  some  other  river,  while  the  waters  of  the  main 
fork  pursue  the  old  course.  Again,  a  river  has  been  known  to  desert  its 
native  bed  and  to  make  a  new  one,  while  eventually  another  stream  will 
appropriate  its  unused  channel,  rushing  proudly  and  noisily  along  as  if 
at  home  in  its  own  course,  while  that  becomes  overgrown  with  bushes, 
is  filled  up  with  debris,  and  is  lost.     Here,  on  this  great  watershed,  streams 


VIEW    OX    THE    CHINA    COAST. 


may  rise  but  a  short  distance  from  each  other  that  will  find  their  ends 
thousands  of  miles  apart.  The  stream  that  separates  and  seeks  an 
independent  course  has  been  known  to  reach  by  one  branch  the  Sea  of 
China  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Asia,  while  the  other  flows  into  the  Bay 
of  Beng;al. 

But  the  storied  valleys  and  highlands  of  Southern  China,  with  their 
lonely  towns  and  empty  plains,  become,  like  their  vanished  grandeur,  a 
memory  and  a  shadow,  as  we  stand  at  last  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  of  the  Far  East.     As  we  look  upon  the  foam-frosted  flood  of 


CHINA.  151 

the  Great  River,  mighty  even  here  in  this  mountain  fastness,  with  snow- 
crowned  peaks  of  Alpine  hoariness  and  rock-bastions  of  American  majesty, 
we  seem  to  feel  that  we  are  being  borne  on  with  irresistible  power  into 
the  heart  of  the  ancient  empire.  Whence  comes  this  long  river  no  man 
knows,  any  more  than  he  knows  the  origin  of  the  race  that  founded  its 
homes  in  its  fertile  valleys  long  ere  written  history  sent  its  messages 
abroad  over  the  world,  a  people  that  may  have  flourished  in  the  era  of 
the  Toltec  dynasty  in  the  West,  or  before  the  ancestors  of  the  Children 
of  the  Sun  founded  the  golden  capital  of  Amarca,  the  most  ancient 
America.  We  have  said  that  it  is  a  river  of  many  names,  and  to-day,  as 
Go  Mung  enumerates  them,  we  are  forcibly  impressed  with  the  bewildering 
array  of  Chinese  nomenclature. 

As  the  Chu-mau  it  has  its  source  somewhere  in  the  mountains  that  form 
the  southern  boundary  of  the  great  sand  plain  called  "  Gobi,"  or  "  Shamo," 
at  about  the  same  longitude  as  Calcutta.  It  flows  along  the  base  of  the 
lofty  range  of  Bayan  Kapa  mountains,  from  whose  northern  slopes  China's 
second  great  river,  the  erratic  Hoang-ho,  or  Yellow  River,  gathers  its 
tribute  for  the  sea  which  it  names.  Opposite  the  birthland  of  that  Mis- 
souri of  this  big  river,  the  Ya-lung,  the  Chu-mau  exchanges  its  baptismal 
name  for  that  of  Dre-chu,  a  designation  which  it  loses  when  it  crosses  the 
border  of  Sifan  into  the  province  of  Szechuan,  to  become  known  as  Kin- 
sha  Kiang,  "The  River  of  the  Golden  Sand."  Under  this  poetical  name, 
it  rushes  across  a  corner  of  the  Szechuan  and  Yunnan  provinces  to  leap 
with  dazzling  glory  from  under  the  "  Sun  Bridge "  overhung  by  the 
"  Throne  of  Snow,"  whose  massive  front  of  twenty  thousand  feet  is  nearly 
one-half  a  sheer  precipice,  into  the  great  basin  of  China.  It  is  now  known 
as  the  Kin  ho,  and  continues  an  unmanageable  torrent  until  it  reaches  the 
level  country  of  Ping  Shan,  situated  forty  miles  above  the  junction  of  the 
Min  River.  Here  it  exchanges  its  name  for  that  of  this  tributary,  and 
as  the  Min  Kiang  it  sweeps  along  down  to  Icliang  gorge,  when  it  takes 
on  its  final  and  most  glorious  designation,  Ta  Kiang,  or,  as  foreigners  seem 
to  like  best,  Yangtse  Kiang.  This  time  Yang  means  sea ;  tse,  son  ;  and 
Kiang,  river,  —  the  whole  denoting  "  Son  of  the  Sea."  It  has  a  length 
under  this  name  of  one  thousand  miles. 

The  geographical  features  of  this  extensive  waterway  are  worthy  of  a 
brief  description.      One  of  its  most  striking  features  is  the  remarkable 


descent  it  makes  in  the  upper  half  of  its  explored  course.  Col.  William 
Rockhill,  the  American  explorer,  who  penetrated  deepest  into  the  realm 
of  its  headwaters,  reached  an  altitude  of  16,400  feet.  From  this  lofty 
outlook  to  the  head  of  navigation,  Ping  Shan,  an  estimated  distance  of 
fifteen  hundred  miles,  the  aggregate  of  its  stupendous  falls  cannot  be  less 
than  fifteen  thousand  feet,  the  greatest  descent  of  any  of  the  large  rivers 
on  the  Q-lobe.     From  Ping  Shan  to  Hankow,  a  distance  of  nine  hundred 


ON    THE    YANGTSE    AT    CHINKIANG. 


miles,  the  descent  is  estimated  to  be  in  the  vicinity  of  one  thousand  feet. 
From  the  last  named  city  to  the  sea,  a  distance  of  six  hundred  miles,  it 
falls  only  about  fifty  feet,  or  an  average  of  only  one  inch  to  a  mile.  The 
width  of  this  river  at  Hankow,  where  it  becomes  a  tidal  stream,  is  nearly 
a  mile,  while  it  becomes  at  low  water  in  shallow  places  less  than  ten  feet 
in  depth.  Below  the  gorge  at  Ichang,  one  thousand  miles  from  the  sea, 
it  has  a  width  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  and  is  navigable  to  this  place 
for  large  steamers.  Other  great  rivers  may  carry  a  larger  volume  of 
water  into  the  ocean  than  this  "  Son  of  the  Sea,"  there  may  be  longer 


CHINA. 


153 


rivers  than  the  Yangtse  Kiang,  though  this  remains  for  the  coming  ex- 
plorer to  show  ;  but  it  does  drain,  with  its  mighty  network  of  tributaries, 
the  largest  cultivated  valley  in  the  world,  an  area  estimated  to  cover 
almost  660,000  square  miles,  equal  in  extent  of  territory  to  the  American 
States  comprising  the  Pacific  slope,  and  affording  sustenance  for  its 
peaceful  and  agricultural  population  numbering  over  180,000,000  souls. 
The  most  effective   survey  made   of  that  portion  of  the  Great  River 


SllAN(ill  A  I 


A  N  1  '      W   I    >  1    .\  I 


UAII.WAY. 


which  is  known  as  the  "  River  of  the  Golden  Sand  "  was  made  by  the 
redoubtable  Captain  Gill  in  1877.  Poor  Gill  I  he  perished  most  miserably 
on  an  expedition  to  the  sheikhs  of  the  Sinai  desert  in  tiie  late  sumnu-r  of 
1882,  in  company  with  Professor  Palmer,  the  great  Oriental  linguist,  and 
two  others.  This  little  party  left  the  Wells  of  Moses  on  the  8tli  of 
August,  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  a  body  of  Bedouins  on  the  morning  of  the 
third  day,  after  a  night's  stubborn  fight  against  overwhelming  numbers. 
Their  captors  lost  no  time  in  deciding  that  they  should  be  put  to  death, 
and  the  hapless  quartette  were  given  the  choice  to  leap  from  a  high  preci- 


pice  or  be  shot  down  like  dogs.  Captain  Gill  and  Professor  Palmer  chose 
the  first  alternative,  and,  goaded  on  by  their  inlmnian  captors,  threw 
themselves  over  the  brink  of  the  chasm  overhanging  the  rocks  of  the 
Wady  Sudr,  nearly  fifty  feet  below.  Their  companions  were  shot  a  few 
minutes  later. 

Standing  on  the  bank  of  this  great  mountain  stream,  looking  northward 
into  the  province  of  Szechuan  in  the  distance,  we  realise  that  we  are  on 
the  borderland  between  India  and  China.  To  the  west  and  north  lies  a 
dark  region,  filled  with  the  most  mystic  tales  of  unrecorded  deeds,  a  vast 
country  from  which  the  mists  of  the  past  lift  slowly,  leaving  a  background 
difficult  to  trace.  Early  European  explorers  met  on  its  frontier  a  barrier 
they  could  not  pass,  and  even  to-day  Tibet  is  but  imperfectly  understood, 
and  there  is  much  for  the  future  discoverer  to  unfold.  The  mountains 
and  valley  of  this  interior  realm  bear  evidence  of  having  been  formerly 
clothed  in  rich  forests,  but,  denuded  of  these  by  the  agency  of  man,  the 
whole  territory  bids  certain  to  become  as  arid  and  barren  as  the  mountain 
regions  of  Northern  Persia. 

The  missionaries  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  must  be  given  the  credit 
for  the  first  actual  entrance  into  this  strange  country.  These  devout  and 
indefatigable  men,  surmounting  obstacles  that  required  almost  superhuman 
effort  to  compass,  penetrated  even  the  most  remote  regions,  establishing 
a  continuous  line  of  religious  posts  from  the  sea  to  the  farthest  inland 
frontier.  In  these  have  been  sacrificed  to  what  was  deemed  the  duty  of 
one's  life  many  a  soul  on  the  altar  of  patient  suffering,  and  hardly  a 
modern  explorer  has  not  found  somewhere,  however  remote  the  place,  one 
of  these  anchorites  living  alone  and  unknown  to  the  w^orld,  forgotten  by 
his  nearest  kin,  while  he  performed  the  simple  work  of  his  isolated  life. 
As  the  object  was  not  for  worldly  gain,  these  exploits,  which  would  read  in 
many  cases  like  romance,  have  never  been  published  to  the  world,  and 
thus  have  perished  unknown  with  the  brave  doer.  More's  the  pity.  On 
the  great  Tibetan  plateau  we  met  one  of  these  hardy  followers  of  the 
Church,  an  old  man,  whose  long,  flowing  white  beard  and  hair  gave  to 
his  noble  presence  the  air  of  one  of  the  patriarchs  of  old. 

The  privilege  to  enter  the  interior  of  China  and  to  travel  where  they 
pleased,  with  proper  consideration  for  the  feelings  and  customs  of  those 
they  met,  was  granted  to  Europeans,  provided  they  had  passports,  in  the 


CHINA. 


155 


treaty  of  Tien-tsin,  Article  IX.,  ratified  June  26,  1858.  This  is  the  start- 
ing point  from  which  to  date  modern  exploration  and  disco verj-  in  China 
by  foreigners.  From  this  time  the  empire  began  to  Ije  known ;  previous 
to  that  period  it  was  an  unknown  land,  even  to  the  imperial  head  itself. 
We  stop  at  one  of  the  villages  in  this  vicinity,  meeting  with  a  more 
cordial  reception  than  at  certain  places  along  the  West  River.  Go  Mung 
assures  us  that  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country  is  to  be  obtained 


UTDDHIST    MONASTKKV,     n 


from  the  summit  of  one  of  tlio  hills  not  far  away,  and  we  (|ui(kly  (lecide 
to  improve  the  opportunity.  We  invite  the  disgust  of  our  ('hinese  com- 
panions by  concluding  to  walk,  something  a  Chinaman  never  does  if  he 
can  help  it.  Another  trait  peculiar  to  liim  is  that,  upon  arriving  at  a 
place,  he  spends  his  time  between  eating,  rlriuking,  smoking,  and  sleep- 
ing, seldom  seeking  any  means  of  enjoyment.  Thus  the  restlessness  and 
constant  activity  of  the  American  is  a  characteristic  which  he  cannot 
understand. 


In  this  respect  he  differs  from  the  Japanese,  while  he  lacks  tlie  imagina- 
tion and  inventive  power  of  the  latter.  The  Chinaman  paints  nothing 
but  what  he  has  seen,  carves  nothing  but  what  he  has  been  acquainted 
with,  does  nothing  which  he  or  liis  father  has  not  done.  In  short,  he  is 
not  original.  Captain  Gill  relates  a  case  where  a  couple  of  Chinese 
returning  from  a  visit  to  Europe,  wishing  to  learn  what  they  could  of 
navigation,   gravely  asked  permission  of  the  captain  to  copy  the  ship's 


ORDINARY    CIVILIAN  S    CHAIR. 


log  day  by  day.  At  the  end  of  the  voyage,  they  having  carefully  guarded 
their  secret  during  the  time,  it  was  found  that  they  had  done  it  under  the 
impression  that,  should  either  of  them  ever  take  a  vessel  over  the  route, 
these  notes  would  be  their  s^uide. 

We  found  our  destination  to  be  one  of  the  loftiest  hills  in  that  region, 
reaching  -an  altitude  of  nearly  a  thousand  feet  above  the  river  bed.  On 
its  crest  stood  a  seven-storied  pagoda,  with  the  ear-marks  of  ages  upon  it, 
while   its  elevated   top  was   made   still   more  lofty  by  a  good-sized  tree 


CHINA. 


157 


growing  upon  it !  The  silvery  orb  of  the  Oriental  night  was  hung  like 
a  pictured  gem  against  the  naked  wall  of  the  translucent  sky,  lending 
the  happiest  effect  that  we  ever  saw  to  the  valleys,  mountains,  })lains,  and 
forests  of  Yunnan.  Added  to  the  wild,  grand  panorama  of  nature  was 
to  be  seen  in  the  distance  the  coppery  gleam  of  the  camp-fire  of  some 
caravan  halted  for  the  night  on  the  highlands.  Yet  farther  away  was 
a  bigger  and  brighter  sheet  of  flame,  marking  the  onsweep  of  a  forest 
conflagration,  which  is  a  sight  only  too  often  seen  in  this  country.  As 
we  stand  mute  spectators  of  this  scene,  a  dozen  or  more  dark  figures, 
looking  at  first  hke  huge  bats,  dart  out  over  the  landscape  between  us 
and  the  sea  of  fire.  They  soon  assume  the  shape  of  a  body  of  horsemen 
sweeping  over  the  plain  with  a  velocity  vying  with  the  wind.  Our  gaze 
now  follows  them  until,  growing  fainter  and  fainter,  their  outlines  disap- 
pear into  the  distant  gloom,  leaving  us  to  speculate  as  to  who  they  are, 
whither  they  are  bound,  or  what  may  be  their  errand. 

As  we  continue  to  look  out  over  this  gorgeous  autumnal  scene,  the 
words  of  him  who  penetrated  into  this  region  before  us.  Captain  Gill, 
come  into  our  mind,  and  we  can  do  no  better  than  to  quote  them : 
*'  Nature  had  draped  the  landscape  in  such  gorgeous  tints  that  she  seemed 
in  some  wanton  mood  to  be  challenging  the  feeble  hand  of  man  to  imitate 
her  wealth  of  colouring.  The  mountainsides  that  rose  on  either  hand 
almost  precipitately  glowed  in  yellow  or  golden  red;  down  by  the  rill, 
which  leapt  merrily  from  stone  to  stone,  the  young  willows  had  the  fresh 
green  foliage  of  early  spring ;  and  the  very  weeds  growing  by  the  roadside 
vied  with  the  trees  in  the  richness  of  their  hues."  Reluctantly  we  finally 
retraced  our  steps  down  the  hillside,  the  sound  of  rushing  water  soon 
rising  on  the  still  air,  its  soft  monotone  in  perfect  harmony  with  the 
surroundings. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

IN     DARKEST     TIBET. 

THE  countenance  of  the  genial  Go  Mung  shows  an  unusual  look  of 
anxiety,  while  we  cannot  fail  to  notice  that  he  gazes  often  into 
the  west,  from  whence  comes  the  noble  river  sweeping  past  the 
little  Chinese  village,  as  if  in  haste  to  carry  the  news  of  its  coming  to 
the  plains  a  thousand  miles  away.  We  have  concluded  to  make  a  detour 
into  the  province  of  Szechuan,  shaping  our  course  so  as  to  strike  the 
famous  river  of  Min,  and  by  that  storied  stream  reach  the  Upper  Yangtse 
Kiang.  This  will  take  us  through  the  territory  of  the  Man-tse  and  the 
heart  of  that  provincial  empire,  Szechuan.  We  did  think  of  diverging 
enough  to  extend  our  journey  into  the  edge  of  Tibet,  but  then  Go  Mung, 
to  whom  we  owe  too  much  not  to  respect  his  advice,  shook  his  head, 
saying : 

"  It  is  but  eighteen  days'  travelling  to  Batang,  good  master,  and  that 
town  is  well  on  toward  the  border  of  Tibet ;  but  the  way  lies  through  a 
country  little  better  than  a  desert,  the  upper  portions  of  which  are  clothed 
in  a  wilderness  of  snow,  and  the  lower  slopes  and  valleys  lying  naked  in 
their  barrenness  and  hideous  deformity.  Is  the  journey  worth  the  while  ? 
Provisions  cannot  be  obtained  on  the  way,  such  as  we  should  want,  the 
people  in  that  country  living  principally  on  buttered  tea  and  oatmeal 
porridge.  But  the  quantity  they  will  eat  makes  it  impossible  for  a 
stranger  to  get  even  a  small  portion ! " 

"  Well,  tell  us  about  Tibet,  Go  Mung,  and  the  strange  people  who  live 
within  its  dark  borders.  Then  let  us  have  a  story,  and  we  will  fall  in 
with  your  plan."  The  Talebearer  shows  his  kindly  appreciation,  and  in 
a  short  time  we  have  learned  more  of  Darkest  Tibet  than  we  had  ever 
dreamed  of.  After  all,  we  are  made  to  believe  that  the  source  of  dread 
of  that  country  comes  from  the  brotherhood  of  lamas,  who  are  unfriendly 
to  foreigners.      As  this  conclusion  comes  from  Chinese  sources,  it  may  be 


CHINA 


159 


well  to  give  it  some  allowance.  Strictly  speaking,  the  lamas  are  priests 
of  the  faith  of  Buddha.  They  form  a  powerful  sect,  and  wield  throughout 
Tibet  a  power  that  is  tyrannical.  They  live  in  large  communities,  form- 
ing lamaseries  or  monasteries.  The  extent  of  their  power  may  be  under- 
stood when  it  is  stated  that  they  comprise  one-third  of  Tibet's  population 
and  two- thirds  of 
its  energy. 

The  head  of  the 
sect  is  the  Dalai 
Lama,  who  is 
credited  with  being 
the  incarnation  of 
the  divine  son. 
Upon  his  death,  the 
believers  in  the 
faith  hold  that  his 
spirit  has  entered 
a  child  born  at 
that  moment.  Im- 
mediately a  search 
is  begun  to  find 
this  successor,  who 
is  supposed  to  have 
certain  mysterious 
marks  upon  its 
body  easily  under- 
stood by  those  ex- 
pert in  the  secrets 
of  the  la m a s  . 
There  is  no  reason 
to  doubt  the  hon- 
esty of  this  search,  for  it  often  happens  that  a  cliil.l  is  selected  from 
some  poor  and  not  influential  family.  The  child  that  is  finally  accepted 
is  remarkable  for  the  spiritual  beauty  of  its  countenance,  and  for  the 
p:ontleness  of  its  spirit.  This  may  be  a  desired  quality,  for  should  one 
H'ith  the  energy  and   ambition   of  the   world's   followers  be    chosen,   he 


;iIi:iNK     IN    CANTON". 


would  soon  trample  under  foot  the  prerogatives  of  liis  would-be  masters, 
and  overturn  the  power  of  the  lamas. 

The  lamas  are  described  as  poor  and  filthy.  "  They  shave  their  heads, 
and  wear  a  garment  of  a  coarse  red  serge  or  sackcloth.  This  has  no 
shape,  Init  is  simply  an  oblong  piece  of  cloth  thrown  over  one  shoulder, 
the  other  being  generally  bare ;  for  the  lamas,  not  less  hardy  than  their 
lay  brethren,  seem  absolutely  impermeable  to  cold.  The  lamas  wear 
another  length  of  cloth  wound  two  or  three  times  around  the  waist, 
which  forms  a  skirt  reaching  to  the  ankle.  Many  of  them  are  barefooted ; 
others  wear  high  boots  of  red  cloth,  with  the  lower  parts  made  of  leather. 
A  yellow  scarf  is  sometimes  worn  around  the  waist,  and,  with  a  string 
of  beads  and  a  prayer  cylinder,  completes  their  costume.  The  prayer 
cylinder  is  usually  about  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter  and  in  length ; 
the  mystical  invocation,  '  Om  Ma-ni  Pe-mi  Hom,^  is  written  on  the  out- 
side, while  a  small  weight  at  the  end  of  a  short  string  keeps  the  affair  in 
rotation ;  and  all  day  long,  not  only  the  lamas,  but  the  people  may  be 
seen  muttering  the  universal  prayer,  and  twisting,  invariably,  in  the 
same  direction  with  the  hands  of  a  clock.  One  or  more  great  cylinders, 
inscribed  with  the  sentence,  stand  at  the  entrance  to  every  house  in  Tibet, 
and  a  member  of  tlie  h(jusehold,  or  a  guest  who  passes,  is  always  expected 
to  give  the  cylinder  a  twist  for  the  welfare  of  the  establishment.  At 
almost  every  rivulet  the  eye  is  arrested  by  a  little  building,  that  is  at  first 
mistaken  for  a  water-mill,  but  which,  on  close  inspection,  is  found  to 
contain  a  cylinder,  turning  by  the  force  of  the  stream,  and  ceaselessly 
sending  up  pious  ejaculations  to  heaven,  for  every  turn  of  the  cylinder 
on  which  the  prayer  is  written  is  supj)osed  to  convey  an  iuA'ocation  to 
the  deity.  Sometimes  enormous  barns  are  filled  with  these  cylinders, 
gorgeously  painted,  and  with  the  prayer  repeated  on  them  many  times ; 
and  at  every  turn  and  every  step  in  Tibet  this  sentence  is  forced  upon 
the  traveller's  notice  in  some  form  or  another.  A  string,  called  a  Mani 
string,  is  often  stretched  between  the  two  sides  of  a  tiny  valley,  and 
hundreds  of  little  bits  of  rags  are  tied  to  it  with  the  prayer  written  on 
all.  At  the  top  of  every  mountain  there  is  a  cairn  made  of  stones,  cast 
there  by  the  pious  traveller,  thankful  to  have  escaped  the  dangers  of  the 
mountain  roads,  and  on  each  stone  the  prayer  appears.  Many  sticks  are 
planted  in  the  cairn,  with  a  piece  of  rag  or  cloth  at  the  upper  end,  on 


CHINA. 


161 


which,  of  course,  the  prayer  is  written,  and  by  the  roadside  are  heaps  of 
flat  stones  with  the  inscription  roughly  cut  on  them.  These  are  especially 
frequent  in  the  valleys ;  sometimes  only  a  few  hundred  rods  apart,  they 
would  appear  to  serve  as  a  means  for  marking  the  road  when  covered  by 
deep  snowdrifts,  as  well  as  for  some  pious  pur^jose.  Sometimes  the  road 
passes  between  walls  of  flat  stones,  on  every  one  of  which  the  sentence 
may  be  read  by  the  passing  traveller.  A  light  pole,  from  which  a  piece 
of  rag  flutters,  inscribed  with  the  j^rayer,  is  placed  at  the  top  of  every 


A     SQUAT  IKK     JNM1>K     \NAH.^     Vt     -NA.NKl.N. 


Tibetan  house,  and  wherever  the  traveller  may  go,  he  is  constantly 
reminded  that  he  is  in  the  home  of  the  Buddhist  religion." 

What  the  meaning  might  be  attached  to  these  frequent  mementoes,  as 
singular  as  it  may  seem,  the  wise  Go  Mung  could  nut,  or  would  not, 
disclose.  But  this  custom  is  not  confined  to  darkest  Tibet,  for  in  IV-rsia 
the  pilgrim  to  the  sacred  shrine  of  Inem  Reze  finds  the  trees  and  bushes 
along  his  pathway  decked  with  innumerable  bits  of  cloth,  while  he,  if  a 
follower  of  the  faith,  adds  to  the  vast  number  one  of  his  own,  in  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  divine  joy  attending  this  pious  pilgrimage. 

With  the  account  of  these  mysterious  prayers  of  Tibet  comes  into  our 


mind  the  stories  we  have  heard  of  the  marvellous"  Tree  of  Ten  Thousand 
Images  described  by  the  Jesuit  missionaries  who  have  penetrated  into  the 
interior  of  the  country.  This  strange  tree  was  reported  to  have  sprung 
from  the  earth  upon  the  spot  where  the  sacred  mother  of  Lamas  shaved 
the  head  of  her  first-born  when  she  dedicated  him  to  the  divine  faith,  and 
sowed  the  ground  with  his  hair.  From  this  spot  sprang  the  most  remark- 
able tree  in  the  world,  the  bark  upon  its  trunk,  the  branches  upon  its 


I 


INFANTRY    AND    BOWMEN    DRILLING. 


body,  and  every  leaf  upon  its  branches  bearing  the  prayers  and  symbols 
of  the  Buddhist  faith.  These  were  believed  to  grow  annually,  and,  with 
the  shedding  of  the  tree's  foliage,  the  singular  messages  were  distributed 
over  the  country.  '  Naturally,  the  priests  guarded  with  zealous  care  such 
a  sacred  and  mysterious  sponsor  of  their  religion.  But  the  curious, 
unbelieving  stranger  eventually  destroyed  this  pretty  myth,  and  thereby 
rendered  blank  another  picture  from  wonderland.  The  remarkable  Literary 
Tree  of  Tibet  is,  after  all,  only  a  common  syringa  villosa  seen  frequently 


CHINA.  163 

in  China.  Its  leaves  are  susceptible  to  any  pressure  made  upon  them, 
and  are  capable  of  holding  these  impressions  for  a  long  time.  Thus  the 
lamas,  with  their  moulds,  were  able  to  imprint  on  tlie  sacred  tree  of  their 
lamasery  such  characters  as  they  chose,  and,  by  assiduous  watchfulness, 
remained  masters  of  the  secret  for  a  lono;  time. 

His  tales  of  Tibet,  many  of  which  we  have  not  space  to  give,  seem  to 
have  awakened  the  fertile  memory  of  Go  Mung  to  a  state  of  activity,  and 
peopled  it  with  mystical  beings,  as  he  ^Drepares  to  relate  the  story  of  the 
famous  Buddhist  saint  who  gave  away  the  world. 

"  This  tale  belongs  to  all  humanity,"  begins  Go  Mung,  folding  his  arms 
upon  his  breast,  while  he  looks  reverentially  tow^ard  the  east,  west,  north, 
and  south,  "and  what  I  am  to  tell  you  is  all  recorded,  witli  iiuicli  more, 
in  the  Great  Book  of  Buddha,  the  Bkah-hgyur,  as  kept  hy  his  faithful 
servants.  This  vast  empire  of  the  West  was  ruled  most  wisely  by  tliat 
famous  king,  Vasmitra,  whose  wisdom  was  glorified  by  noljle  deeds  done 
wherever  his  power  extended.  But  as  good  and  great  as  was  this  noble 
ruler,  his  fame  promised  to  be  eclipsed  by  that  of  his  son  and  future 
successor,  Prince  Vivantara,  who  was  noted  as  much  for  his  generous  acts 
as  his  father  was  for  his  exact  justice  both  to  the  strong  and  the  weak. 
Even  as  a  youth  the  young  prince  went  about  preaching  good  unto  liis 
fellow  beings,  and  teaching  that  the  noblest  attribute  of  man  was  to  be 
free  in  his  acts  of  charity.  Though  many. came  for  succour,  none  were 
turned  away,  and  often  the  prince  was  known  to  go  without  his  food  lliat 
some  poor  starving  outcast  might  eat. 

"  In  time  the  prince  wedded  a  young  woman  as  beautiful  and  generous 
as  he,  so  that  his  -good  deeds  continued  to  multiply',  until  he  became 
known  far  and  wide  as  the  great  Buddisa,  the  noblest  giver  on  earth. 
In  his  own  home  the  good  Buddha  had  blessed  him  and  the  fair  princess, 
while  two  pretty  children,  a  son  and  daughter,  now  bolonged  to  his 
household.  So  far  did  his  fame  extend,  and  so  nnicli  was  it  ])raised,  that 
Sakara,  the  divine  ruler  of  heaven  and  earth,  listciu'il  from  liis  golden 
throne  and  marvelled  that  a  human  Ix'ing  should  possess  sncli  divinity 
of  heart.  Envious  ones  tried  to  poison  the  god's  heart  by  saying  that  it 
was  all  a  sliam,  put  on  that  he  might  deceive  the  people.  As  soon  as  he 
should  take  his  father's  place,  then  would  they  witness  a  change  of  action. 

"  Still  Sakara's  faith  was  not  shaken,  and  to  prove  that  Prince  Vivan- 


tara  was  sincere,  he  offered  to  send  some  one  to  test  the  famous  giver  of 
worldly  treasures.  Most  gladly  did  the  others  agree  to  this  trial,  believ- 
ing that  they  could  cause  the  prince  to  be  put  to  such  a  test  as  would 
work  his  utter  disgrace  and  ruin. 

"  Thus,  as  tlie  prince  walked  one  morning  in  his  beautiful  garden, 
dressed  in  the  showy  robes  that  belonged  to  him  in  his  high  station,  a 
pretended  prince  of  a  noble  line  of  ancestry,  though  unknown  to  Vivan- 


OUTSIDE      llli;     IMI'KKl  AI,     AltSl.NAI..     .\\XKIN. 


tara,  begged  that  he  might  receive  the  other's  fine  garments,  as  his  own 
had  been  lost  through  his  own  foolishness,  and  he  dared  not  return  home 
in  such  a  plight.  Overlooking  the  stranger's  mistakes,  the  prince  re- 
moved his  costly  mantle  made  of  rare  texture,  and  blazoned  with  gold 
and  silver,  to  lay  it  on  the  beggar's  shoulders,  saying,  when  he  had 
blessed   him : 

"  '^  So  would  I  give  away  the  world  that  I  might  become  wiser  and 
better.' 

"  That  very  day,  while  the  prince  was  out  riding  in  his  chariot,  which 
was  fairly  ablaze  with  golden  ornaments,  and  set  with  many  rare  gems, 


CHINA. 


165 


rubies,  sapphires,  and  turquoises,  with  Uoiis'  skins  so  thinly  and  mj'steri- 
ously  dressed  that  tliey  looked  like  foils  of  gold  laid  overhead,  he  was 
met  by  a  party  of  Brahmins,  who  immediately  prostrated  themselves  at 
sight  of  him,  saying : 

"  ^  0  noble  prince !  so  far  has  the  fame  of  your  generous  deeds  been 
borne  by  your  loving  admirers  that,  in  a  distant  land,  have  Ave  heard  of 
you  worshipped  as  the  good  Buddisa  wdio  would  give  away  the  world  that 
he  might  become  wiser  and  better.  We  beseech  of  thee  to  give  us  your 
noble  chariot,  that  we  may  ride  as  becomes  our  station.' 


INTERIOH    OF    BEAMLESS    TEMl'LE,    NANKIN. 

"The  prince  at  once  alighted,  and  freely  gave  to  the  Brahmins  his 
chariot,  returning  to  his  home  on  foot.  But  this  was  only  the  beginning. 
As  he  was  riding  out  with  his  elephant  the  following  day  he  was  l>esought 
to  give  that  away,  which  lie  did  as  freely  as  he  had  given  away  his  chariot. 
Then  he  blessed  the  receiver,  saying : 

"^So  would  I  give  away  the  world  tliat  I  might  become  wiser  and 
better.' 

"Again  the  servant  of  Sakara  came  to  tlie  Buddisa,  disguised  this  time 
as  a  homeless  outlaw,  and  asked  for  the  prince's  palace  as  his  abiding- 
place,  and  his  wish  being  granted,  he  declared,  fervently : 

" '  Noblest  Buddisa,  the  gratitude  of  the  gods  shall  be  yours,  and  may 


you  prosper  in  all  that  you  undertake,  —  in  the  world  with  people  divine 
as  well  as  here,  where  you  are  renowned  as  the  all-giver.' 

"  This  last  act  of  his  son  awakened  the  anger  of  the  king,  who  had  been 
purposely  told  of  all  that  the  prince  had  given  away,  and  warned  that  only 
evil  could  come  of  such  prodigality,  so  he  ordered  that  the  Buddisa  be 
sent  away  for  a  term  of  penance,  unless  he  promised  to  mend  his  ways. 
Upon  being  told  of  his  father's  action,  Vivantara  shook  his  head,  and  im- 
mediately he  prepared  to  go  away.     So  it  came  about  that  tlie  noblest  man 


HONG-KONG    HARBOUR    AND    BOATS. 


on  earth  went  into  the  forest  to  live  as  a  hermit  in  a  hut.  Did  he  re- 
pent of  his  generous  acts  which  had  cost  him  his  fine  robe,  his  chariot, 
his  elephant,  and  his  palace?  Instead  of  murmuring,  he  cheerfully  set 
himself  about  the  task  of  beautifying  his  surroundings,  and  passing 
all  of  his  leisure  in  prayer.  So  deeply  was  he  missed  by  the  people 
that  they  demanded  of  his  father  to  allow  him  to  return.  The  king 
was  glad  to  send  him  word  to  come  back,  providing  he  would 
give  up  making  so  many  presents.     Still   the   Buddisa  shook  his  head, 


^""S 


CHINA.  167 

" '  0  king !  tbou  knowest  not  what  thou  sayest.  As  Sakara  holds  in 
the  pahn  of  his  hand  the  mountains  and  the  plains,  to  do  with  them 
as  he  wills,  so  must  I  be  allowed  the  blessed  privilege  of  giving  as  my 
heart  dictates.' 

"  Now  Sakara  was  ready  to  try  Vivantara  even  more  bitterly  than  he 
had  yet  done,  and  so  his  servant  waited  upon  the  saintly  exile,  and  when 
he  was  alone  said  unto  him  : 

'' '  0  victorious  Buddisa,  the  gods  praise  you  for  the  generosity  of  your 
heart.  I,  a  humble  follow^er,  having  no  slave,  beseech  of  you  your 
children  that  they  may  serve  me.' 

"  Nothing  like  this  had  been  besought  of  the  Buddisa  before,  and  it 
was  little  wonder  if  there  were  tears  in  his  eyes  and  a  tremor  in  his 
voice,  as  he  bade  his  visitor  take  them  with  him,  accompanied  by  his 
blessing.  If  Vivantara's  wife  cliided  him  for  this  deed,  she  saw  that  he 
was  sincere  in  his  grief,  and,  believing  that  he  was  striving  for  heavenly 
perfection,  she  concealed  her  sorrow  and  remained  faithful  to  him.  Mean- 
while, unknown  to  this  couple,  the  disguised  master  of  the  children  placed 
the  unhappy  ones  in  the  market-place  for  sale  as  common  slaves. 

"  Sakara,  upon  being  told  this,  could  scarce  believe  his  most  trusted 
servant,  and  he  resolved  to  go  in  disguise  himself,  that  the  Buddisa  might 
be  given  one  more  test,  more  trying  than  all  the  others.  Thus  a  Brahmin 
appeared  to  Vivantara  in  his  solitude,  beseeching  of  him  his  w^ife  as  a 
slave.  Did  the  Buddisa  falter  then  ?  If  he  did  he  concealed  his  anguish, 
and  led  forth  for  the  stranger's  slave  his  own  beloved  w^ife,  she  whom  he 
loved  above  even  his  mother.  Neither  did  she  reproach  him,  and  she 
turned  her  tear-wet  eyes  away  that  he  might  not  weaken  at  sight  of 
them. 

"  Such  a  sacrifice  as  this  was  more  than  the  king  of  gods  could  witness 
in  silence.  He  cast  aside  his  Brahmin  disguise,  and  stood  before  the 
wondering  Buddisa  in  his  true  character.  The  noble  princess  was  fright- 
ened and  fell  upon  her  knees,  beseeching  of  the  god  that  he  harm  not 
her  prince,  who  had  never  knowingly -injured  an  insect.  In  the  conscious- 
ness of  his  purity  of  heart,  Vivantara  stood  undaunted  before  his  god, 
waiting  his  judgment.  While  a  halo  of  light  filled  all  the  hut,  that  seemed 
suddenly  transformed  into  a  palace,  and  the  joyous  cries  of  a  happy  people 
came  from  outside,  the  father  of  the  prince  entered  with  his  grandchildren 


in  his  arms,  to  place  them  between  their  father  and  mother.  Laying  his 
hands  gently  on  the  heads  of  the  happy  couple,  Sahara  said : 

"  '  Blessed  is  he  who  gives  away  the  world  for  heaven,  and  thrice  blessed 
is  the  Buddisa  ^  who  gave  away  all  that  was  dear  to  him  that  he  might 
better  rule  the  world.     To  him  shall  be  restored  all  that  has  l)een  lost.' 

"  So  Vivantara  returned  to  his  father  and  his  people,  loved  and  re- 
spected more  than  ever.  When  he  came  to  rule  over  the  land  the 
people  rejoiced,  for  the  kings  and  princes,  great  and  rich  men  of  other 
empires,  bestowed  upon  him  favours  and  gifts,  and  of  all  that  he  received 
the  Buddisa  gave  away,  with  much  more,  in  which  way  the  poor  of  the 
land  were  blessed." 

1  There  is  historic  evidence  that  such  a  person  as  the  Buddisa  actually  lived  about  the  time  of 
Christ,  and  that,  as  the  Lord  was  teachins:  the  multitude  on  the  Mount  that  it  was  more  blessed 
to  give  than  to  receive,  in  the  mountains  of  darkest  Tibet  a  heathen  prince  was  unknowingly 
performing  the  very  sacrifices  preached  by  the  divine  master. 


FAMILY    MAUSOLEUM    NKAK    SUCHAU. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


THE    MOUNTAINEERS    OF    CHINA. 


THE  extensive  plateau  which  holds  the  heart  of  Yunnan  in  its 
broad  breast  throws  an  arm  down  toward  Burma,  with  diminish- 
ing altitude  as  it  reaches  southward,  while  another  is  raised 
toward  the  north,  finally  pointing  past  Batang,  and  gradually  narrowing 
as  it  enters  Tibet.  The  main  road  from  the  frontier  city,  Batang,  through 
Li-Kiang,  traverses  tliis  great  upland,  which  we  leave  in  our  overland 
journey  into  the  province  of  Szechuan.  The  valley  of  the  Great  River 
below  us  here  seems  to  pierce  a  series  of  deep  gorges  claimed  to  be  im- 
passable for  any  craft.  At  any  rate,  we  are  advised  to  head  northward, 
though  not  without  warning  that  our  course  will  lie  mainly  across  the 
high  mountain  ridges,  and  through  valleys  where  the  sunlight  does  not 
penetrate  save  at  high  noon  in  midsummer. 

Procuring  ponies  at  a  high  cost,  we  prepare  to  make  the  trying  trip, 
where  we  are  informed  we  shall  ride  for  days  without  finding  even  a 
hamlet,  and  if  we  see  a  human  being  outside  of  our  little  party  it  will 


be  one  of  the  barbarians  of  the  hills,  who  would  consider  it  a  happy  treat 
to  cut  our  throat !  But  we  are  used  to  these  alarms  of  the  Chinese. 
One  hears  them  wherever  one  goes  outside  the  cities  along  the  coast, 
which  in  themselves  are  really  the  greatest  danger-grounds'  to  the 
foreigner. 

Our  last  view  of  the  Kin-sha  River  is  not  a  pleasant  one  to  carry  with 

us,  as  it  is  a  picture  of 
abrupt  sandstone  hills 
dropping  with  almost 
sheer  bank  down  to  the 
river,  with  no  cultivated 
land  in  sight,  and  our 
path  clinging  to  a  high 
embankment  made  more 
dangerous  and  difficult 
of  passage  by  numerous 
small  stones  strewn 
along  its  narrow  course. 
Then  we  suddenly 
plunge  down  a  precipi- 
tous descent,  where  the 
loose  stones  and  uneven 
surface  present  a  con- 
stant menace  to  the 
safe  advance  of  our 
ponies,  and  we  lose  sight 
of  the  River  of  the 
Golden  Sand,  which  will 
environment   when   we 


THE    ARCHER. 


appear   imder   far    different    circumstances   and 
return  to  its  bank  hundreds  of  miles  below. 

The  days  that  follow  need  not  be  recorded,  while  we  climb  long  ascents 
or  descend  hillsides  which  are  worse  for  our  animals  than  the  trying  up- 
grades. On  our  left  rises  the  lofty  mountain  of  San-pa,  nearly  sixteen 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  In  the  course  of  our  journey  we  come  upon 
one  of  the  finest  views  of  the  country,  a  scene  in  which  miles  of  lofty 
pines  form  a  sea  of  evergreen,  whose  foliage,  moved  by  the  autumn  wind, 


CHINA. 


171 


rises  and  falls  with  the  grace  and  regularity  of  the  tide.  Here  and  there, 
like  a  rocky  island  in  the  deep,  rises  above  the  surface  a  forbidding  crag, 
black  and  barren,  while  above  the  line  of  living  growth  is  a  ghostly  forest 
of  dead  trees  whose 
seared  bodies  and  skele- 
ton branches  were  long 
since  denuded  of  their 
foliage  and  beauty  by 
that  arch-enemy  of  the 
primeval  wilderness,  fire. 
The  soil  proving  too 
thin  and  exhausted  to 
produce  another  growth 
to  take  its  place,  it  still 
remains  a  relic  of  by- 
gone days.  On  another 
hand  we  gaze  on  a 
mighty  army  of  pines, 
which  seems  to  be  strug- 
gling up  the  steep  moun- 
tainside like  an  armed 
host  of  men  seeking  con- 
quest. The  result  of 
this  stern  battle  is  ap- 
parent, for,  while  the 
lower  ranks  are  strong 
and  healthy,  and  un- 
broken, higher  up  they 
are  thinned,  the  bare 
arms  of  dead  compan- 
ions flung  into  the  very 
faces  of  the  survivors.  The  higher  the  gaze  pursues  the  falter'ng  legions 
of  trees,  the  more  scattering  and  scrubby  becomes  the  growth,  until 
only  stunted,  scrawny,  half-dead  dwarfs  are  to  be  seen,  and  above 
them  the  bare,  desolate  cliffs.  From  this  we  turn  to  look  u])on  a 
more  refreshing  sight,  sunny  slopes  clothed  in  greensward,    and    dotted 


■i^i^r' 


A    TARTAR    OK    THE    CIIIXKSE    ARMY. 


here  and  there  with  the  thatch-roofed  cottages  of  the  mountaineers  of 
China. 

This  is  the  land  of  red,  luscious-looking  strawberries,  though  not  eatable. 
There  is  another  species  of  a  pale  pink  colour,  which  makes  up  for  what 
it  may  lack  in  appearance  by  being  extremely  palatable.  Holly  grows 
abundantly  among  the  trees,  being  similar  to  that  which  grows  lower 
down  on  the  Yangtse  River,  and  resembling  the  English  variety.  To-day 
we  have  been  reminded  of  the  Cheng-yuan  valley,  with  its  picturesque 
"  Cave  of  the  Mirror."  It  is  a  lonely,  desolate  place,  where  the  sunlight 
penetrates  only  at  midday,  and  then  the  rays  are  filtered  down  through 
the  matted  branches  of  the  towering  trees  so  as  to  rob  them  of  their  noon- 
day lustre.  In  the  long  ago  a  very  good  man,  tired  of  the  evils  of  the 
world,  took  up  his  abode  in  the  "  Cave  of  the  Mirror,"  but  he  soon  found 
it  too  dark  for  him  to  cook  his  dinner.  The  Chinese  love  darkness,  but 
this  proved  too  deep  for  him,  so  he  placed  a  mirror  in  the  wall  of  his 
stone  house  in  such  a  position  that  it  reflected  the  sunlight,  when  he 
moved  about  with  ease.  On  account  of  his  many  virtues,  the  moon  even 
sent  her  beams  into  the  dark  retreat,  so  it  was  light  for  him  by  night  as 
well  as  by  day.  The  old  hermit  went  to  his  reward  many  years  ago,  but 
the  mirror  remains  to  shower  its  light  upon  those  who  visit  the  place 
possessing  the  virtues  of  a  good  life.  The  black  passages  are  made  ex- 
ceedingly bright  for  these,  so  they  go  on  their  way  rejoicing.  If  there 
be  those  coming  hither  who  fail  to  find  the  blessed  light,  they  never 
confess  it,  and  thus  the  abode  of  darkness  becomes  a  place  of  happy 
renown. 

We  are  now  in  good  hunting-ground,  and  many  wild  tales  of  the  chase, 
which  would  put  to  shame  some  of  the  marvellous  stories  of  Marco  Polo, 
are  told  around  our  camp-fire.  To-day  Go  Mung  volunteered  to  show  us 
the  very  precipice  where  the  red  deer  of  the  famous  three  days'  chase 
given  by  one  of  the  ancient  rulers  of  the  empire  leaped  to  its  death  on  the 
rocks  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  wildest  gorges  of  this  wild  country.  We 
conclude  not  to  go,  contenting  ourselves  by  gazing  over  a  tract  of 
rhododendrons,  called  by  the  Chinese  yang-ko-fao,  which  flaunt  their 
gorgeous  plumage  in  the  breeze  farther  than  we  can  see. 

Indian  corn  and  bamboo  cease  to  grow  at  about  four  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  the  hillsides  between  this  and  the  region  ahead  are  un- 


CHINA. 


173 


cultivated,  and  covered  with  a  dense  green  foliage.  The  fluent  Go  Mung 
relieves  the  monotony  of  many  an  hour  by  his  tales,  and  among  others 
that  of  Hsueh-Shan,  which  seems  in  some  respects  very  applicable  to  our 
own  situation.  A  tragic  fate  threatened  whoever  dared  to  ascend  the  dis- 
mal pathway  leading  to  its  summit.  The  condition  was  that  no  sound 
should  break  the 
silence  of  the  moun- 
tain solitude,  the 
penalty  being  a  furi- 
ous wind  and  snow 
storm  to  him  who 
should  dare  to  defy 
this  mandate.  So 
terrific  have  been 
these  storms  at  times 
that  the  hapless  in- 
vaders have  been 
lifted  bodily  into  the 
air  and  carried  for 
miles,  to  fall  at  last 
mangled  and  shape- 
less masses  of  flesh 
and  bones. 

A  great  general 
once  undertook  to 
cross  this  country 
with  his  army,  hop- 
ing by  this  route  to 
overtake  his  ene- 
mies. He  was  from 
the  far  north,  and  a  stranger  to  this  mountainous  district,  but  he  had 
been  warned  of  the  result  should  one  of  his  soldiers  make  any  noise. 
He  laughed  in  derision,  and  ordered  his  chair-l)earers  to  move  on.  The 
way  soon  became  so  steep  that  he  had  to  double  the  number  of  liis 
carriers,  and  these  had  to  shout  as  they  had  never  sliouted  before  in 
order  to  get  up  the   difficult    })ath.       The  Chinese   always  believe   that 


IMAGK     AT    TKMI'LK    KNTHAXCK     (NKAK     S II A  N(;  11  A  I  ). 


shouting  lightens  their  burdens.  The  soldiers,  too,  shouted  and  laughed 
merrily,  so  as  to  ease  their  ascent.  If  the  gods  were  angry  they  did 
not  manifest  it  until  the  summit  was  almost  reached,  and  the  general 
was  boasting  of  their  accomplishment,  when  such  a  storm  of  sleet  and 
wind  came  on  as  none  of  them  had  ever  witnessed.  In  the  '  scene 
that  followed,  the  majority  of  the  soldiers  were  killed,  the  rest  were 
scattered  beyond  hope  of  recalling,  and  the  general  himself  would  have 
perished  miserably  had  it  not  been  for  the  ministrations  of  a  kind- 
hearted  Chinaman  who  found  him  nearly  buried  in  the  sleet.  Thus, 
through  the  folly  of  their  leader,  was  routed  the  flower  of  the  army  of 
the  north. 

This  foolish  general  was  not  the  only  one  upon  whom  the  weather  has 
turned  unkindly,  for  we  ourselves  are  beginning  to  suffer  from  the  rains  of 
the  higher  elevation.  These  attacks  are  peculiar  and  uncertain.  One 
moment  the  rain  will  be  pouring  down  in  torrents,  and  the  next  the  sun 
will  be  shining  delightfully.  A  tedious  march  this  forenoon  into  the 
realm  of  rain  brings  us  to  the  crest  of  a  high  ridge,  when  we  suddenly 
break  through  the  veil  of  clouds  and  find  a  halo  of  light  enveloping  us. 
For  a  moment  we  are  blinded  by  the  brightness  of  the  scene,  but  when 
we  come  to  recover  our  dazzled  vision,  we  find  that  we  have  really  as- 
cended above  the  rainy  mantle  covering  the  valleys  and  lower  slopes,  and 
that  we  are  standing  in  a  sunlit  world.  Below  us  lies  the  crabbed  old 
earth,  with  its  litter  of  dead  pines  and  acres  of  wild  gooseberries,  currants, 
and  briars,  drenched  with  the  falling  rain ;  above  is  the  unflecked  sky, 
the  sun  shining  wdth  unwonted  brightness,  giving  to  the  rainfall  beneath 
the  matchless  colours  of  the  rainbow,  so  that  we  cannot  help  feeling  that 
the  peak  upon  which  we  stand  rests  on  a  mighty  shield  of  transcendent 
beauty.  In  the  west,  the  glorious  orb  lends  a  dazzling  halo  to  the  Tibetan 
"King  of  the  Mountains,"  Jara,  w^rapped  in  his  snowy  robe,  a  fitting 
rival  to  grand  old  Fujiyama,  Japan's  "  Peerless  Mountain."  ^Ye  look 
upon  all  this  entranced,  until  the  rain-cloud  is  scattered,  and  the  withered 
arms  of  the  forests  on  the  upper  slopes  penetrate  the  veil  of  mist. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  lack  of  appreciation  of  the  beauties  of  nature, 
our  Chinese  companions,  even  to  Go  Mung,  fill  and  smoke  their  pipes 
complacently.  This  leads  us  to  say  that  more  opium  is  smoked  in  Yunnan 
than  in  any  other  province.     Relative  to  this,  there  is  a  saying  among 


CHINA. 


175 


the  Chinese  that  an  opium  pipe  is  in  every  house  in  Kweichau,  while 
in  Yunnan  one  is  found  in  every  room.  This  is  equivalent  to  saying  that 
not  only  the  men  but  the  women  of  the  latter  pro\'inee  smoke. 

After  another 
long  descent  and 
correspondingly 
long  up-grade,  twe 
find  ourselves  ad- 
miring another  ex- 
tensive panorama 
of  country,  which 
affords  solace  for 
the  fatigues  and 
weariness  of  our 
journey.  It  is  a 
scene  that  would 
delight  the  heart  of 
a  Swiss  tourist,  as 
our  gaze  wanders 
over  the  slopes 
beautified  and 
freshened  by  vast 
beds  of  delicate 
flowers  of  a  pale 
blue,  set  with  bor- 
ders of  dark  green- 
sward. Higher  up, 
holly  -  leaved  oaks 
afford  their  vivid 
contrast  of  a  deeper 
green,  while,  be- 
yond these,  pines 
clothe  the  moun- 
tainsides as  far  as 

we  can  see.  On  the  hillsides  are  herds  of  lionu'd  cattle,  while  stu])ble- 
fields  of  peas,  wheat,  barley,  and  buckwheat  gladden  the  heart  with  the 


A     PRISOXKR    \VKAl;iN(;     TIIK    CANCiLK. 


suggestion  that  we  are  coming  into  an  inhabited  region.  This  is  soon 
proved  by  the  welcome  sight  of  a  cluster  of  the  dwellings  of  these 
people  living  in  this  remote  quarter  of  the  globe,  without  dreaming 
of  their  isolation.  To  them  the  word  America  is  an  unknown  term, 
the  extent  of  their  geographical  knowledge  barely  comprehending  a 
small  portion  of  China,  with  an  inadequate  idea  of  Tibet,  and  a  vague 
dream  of  Russia. 

The  road  winds  down  the  descent  under  long  borders  of  yews,  junipers, 
and  pines,  until  we  find  it  fenced  wdth  the  ever-common  gooseberry, 
which  continues  to  the  very  houses  of  the  little  hamlet  on  the  hillside. 
Here  we  are  received  by  the  people  with  a  welcome  quite  pleasing,  when 
we  consider  that  we  come  as  utter  strangers,  —  in  their  eyes  barbarians 
from  a  country  unknown. 

The  following  day  we  cross  the  Ya-lung  River,  which  pierces  gorges 
as  terrific  as  those  threaded  by  the  Kin-sha,  to  mingle  its  waters  with 
the  latter  river  amid  the  mountain  fastness  overlooked  by  the  "  Throne 
of  Snow."  We  are  now  in  the  province  of  Szechuan,  "  the  Cloudy 
Province."  This  province  is  about  the  size  of  our  State  of  California,  and 
has  a  population  estimated  to  be  about  the  same  as  tliat  of  the  United 
States,  though  this  is  probably  too  high  by  several  millions.  Its  climate 
runs  from  a  comfortable  tropical  temperature  to  a  cold  that  is  not  severe. 
Its  soil  is  as  variable  as  its  climate,  and  as  favourable,  and  the  eastern 
portion  has  been  styled  the  "  Garden  of  the  World."  While  it  is  sparsely 
settled  on  the  Tibetan  frontier,  the  opposite  side  is  densely  populated. 
Something  of  the  possibilities  of  its  future  may  be  realised  from  the 
estimate  that  it  has  coal-beds  capable  of  supplying  the  entire  world  M'ith 
fuel  for  a  thousand  years.  Over  these  rich  beds  the  people  build  their 
slight  fires  of  charcoal,  barely  sufficient  to  cook  their  plain  food,  and 
shiver  for  the  cold  through  the  inclement  weather  of  the  wintry  period. 

We  are  now  in  the  homeland  of  the  remnants  of  one  of  the  native 
inhabitants  of  China,  the  Somos,  or  Shan-shang-ren,  which  means  moun- 
tain people,  according  to  their  claim.  The  Chinese  call  them  Mang-tse, 
which  means  simply  "  barbarians."  They  are  divided  into  four  tribes  at 
the  present  time,  and  number^  about  twenty  thousand.  Each  clan  or 
tribe  is  ruled  by  a  chieftain  called,  in  their  language,  tu-tse,  who  is 
appointed  by  the  emperor,   but  generally  from  a  hereditary  line.     This 


CHINA. 


177 


is  not  wholly  unlike  the  government  of  one  of  our  Indian  reservations. 
The  Chinaman  who  has  settled  within  this  state  has  to  pay  rent  for  the 
ground  he  occupies,  and  is  restricted  from  making  charcoal.  If  he  wishes 
to  marry  a  Mang-tse  woman,  he  must  pay  the  tu-tse  a  certain  compensa- 
tion, which  amounts  to  about  twenty-five  dollars.  Go  Mung  proves  a 
true  prophet  in  this  case  by  saying  that  we  should  meet  a  more  unfriendly 
reception  than  from  the  tribes  of  Yunnan.  These  people  have  given  the 
Chinese  more  trouble  than  any  other  tribe  within  their  domains. 


SOWING    lUCE    AT    SUCIIAN  -  FU. 


Their  religion  is  Buddhism,  patterned  after  the  style  pre\-ailing  in 
Tibet,  display  seeming  to  be  the  most  important  object.  The  eonnnon 
expression  heard  everywhere  in  Tibet,  "Om  Ma-ni  Pe-nii  Hoiii."  is  con- 
stantly dinned  into  our  ears  here.  Prayer-flags  flaunt  from  the  top  of 
every  dwelling,  and  prayer-wheels  are  to  be  seen  everywhere.  Daily 
offerings  are  made  in  every  family,  and  every  second  son  is  a  lama. 
Above  each  village,  on  some  rocky  height,  is  raised  a  lamasery,  and  the 
image  of  Buddha  appears  in  rock  or  drawing.  As  in  Tibet,  the  lamas 
are  a  power  here,  improving  every  opportunity  to  obtain  recompense  from 
the  people.     Their  harvest  seems  to  be  at  time  of  their  subject's  death, 


when  big  fees  are  exacted  fur  prayers  and  services,  the  clothes  of  the 
deceased  being  claimed  by  them.  The  family  has  the  right  to  redeem 
these,  but  it  m.ust  be  done  within  a  certain  time.  Besides  prayers  and 
reading  of  the  Buddhist  scriptures,  loud  chanting,  the  blowing  of  horns, 
and  the  beating  of  drums  accompany  the  performance  of  a  Somo  funeral. 
The  dead  are  generally  cremated. 

One  of  the  brightest  features  of  the  Mang-tse  people  is  the  high  respect 


PORCELAIN    AND    EAIITHENWARE    SHOP. 


shown  woman.  She  is  looked  upon  as  man's  equal,  shares  in  his  sports, 
associates  with  him  in  his  e very-day  life,  and  may  have  any  office  from 
the  lowest  to  the  highest  of  the  tribe,  even  to  that  of  tu-tse.  The  maid 
is  permitted  free  companionship  with  the  young  men,  ma}^  marry  whom 
she  chooses,  and  take  the  initiative,  if  she  wishes,  in  the  courtship.  Con- 
sequently, love-matches  are  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception.  They  are 
joined  in  wedlock  for  life,  after  having  obtained  the  sanction  of  a  lama, 
by  joining  hands  in  public,  and  drinking  wine  from  a  bowl  with  two 


CHINA.  179 

projecting  mouths.  A  feast  at  the  bride's*  house  lasts  for  three  days, 
when  the  married  couple  repair  to  their  new  home,  where  tlie  three 
days'  feasting  is  repeated.  There  is  no  divorce,  except  for  childlessness, 
and  then  the  sanction  of  the  tu-tse  must  be  obtained.  Upon  the  deatli 
of  her  husband,  the  widow,  unless  she  remarries,  succeeds  to  his  property, 
but  this,  at  her  demise,  must  go  to  the  sons. 

As  may  be  imagined,  they  are  a  very  cheerful  people,  and  almost 
every  one  appears  to  be  in  good  health.  Death  is  called  "  exhaustion," 
and  when  one  is  stricken  with  illness,  little  is  done  to  improve  his  condi- 
tion, it  being  the  belief  that  if  he  is  ill  enough  to  die,  die  he  must. 
Underneath  this  pleasant  exterior.  Go  Mung  assures  us  that  the  morality 
of  the  race,  from  the  lamas  down,  is  of  the  worst  type.  But  it  must  not 
be  forgotten  that  the  Talebearer  is  a  Chinese,  and  thus  would  naturally 
look  for  the  dark  spots.  They  are,  as  a  rule,  ignorant,  and  cannot  speak 
the  tongue  of  the  Chinese,  except  through  constant  intercourse  with 
the  latter.  Their  language  is  expressed  in  Tibetan  characters.  Their 
situation  is  such  that  they  cannot  be  other  than  poor.  There  are  some 
fine  forests  of  timber,  but  worthless  until  some  different  means  of  trans- 
portation are  secured  than  the  rapid,  tortuous  streams  which  find  their 
source  in  this  country.  The  principal  crops  are  oats,  barley,  wheat, 
maize,  buckwheat,  and  hemp.     Trade  is  carried  on  entirely  by  barter. 

As  a  race  the  Somos  are  strong,  good-looking,  with  dark  skin,  large, 
expressive  black  eyes,  straight  noses,  thin  lips,  high  foreheads,  and  dark 
hair,  which,  among  the  women,  is  dressed  elaborately,  while  the  men 
shave  their  heads,  and  wear  a  tight-fitting  cap  made  of  fur  or  cloth. 
The  women  wear,  over  stout  woollen  undergarments,  dark  brown  or  red 
jackets,  short  and  loose,  with  skirts  laid  in  plaits  reaching  below  their 
knees.  The  feet  and  ankles  are  encased  in  high  leather  boots,  ornamented 
up  and  down  the  seams  with  scarlet  or  green  cloth.  The  clothes  of  men 
and  women  are  made  of  a  coarse  woollen  material,  which  they  spin, 
weave,  and  dye  themselves.  They  make  the  thread  with  which  the 
garments  are  sewn  together  of  hempen  fibre.  They  are  not  a  cleanly 
people,  but  have  a  better  record  in  this  respect  than  the  Chinese.  On 
the  whole,  they  are  a  free,  careless,  indolent,  ignorant,  happy  people, 
disliking  everybody  else,  with  thoughts  only  for  the  present,  leaving  the 
lamas  to  look  out  for  their  future. 


PORCELAIN    AND    EARTHENWARE    SHUl',    SECOND    VIEW, 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


BIRDS    OF    CHINA. 


TO-DAY  we  see  the  noted  Sorao  Castle,  a  stone  structure  standing 
on  an  elevation  of  nearly  eight  thousand  feet,  a  most  sub- 
stantial edifice,  with  none  of  the  appearance  of  decay  or  age 
so  common  to  Chinese  buildings.  At  first  sight  the  beholder  is  inclined 
to  start  back  with  a  look  of  fear  at  the  precarious  situation  of  the  lofty 
castle,  which  stands  on  the  brink  of  a  high  rock.  Then  it  seems  to 
him  a  most  fitting  site  for  such  a  structure.  Its  decorations  are  in  stone, 
sombre  but  substantial.  These  are  to  a  certain  extent  relieved  by  the 
wooden  latticework  of  the  overhanging  rooms  and  l:)alconies,  while 
the  many  roofs  are  fairly  festooned  with  prayer-flags.  The  entrance  is 
made  under  a  facade  on  a  plastered  stone  screen  rendered  hideous  by 
the  image  of  a  huge,  evil-looking  dragon.  The  yards  are  kept  in  good 
order,  but  an  air  of  gloom  hangs  over  it  all,  and  wherever  one  goes  one's 
footsteps  give  back  a  hollow  sound. 

We  meet  here  with  our  worst  experience  in  the  matter   of   food,  as 
the  natives  are  not  inclined  to  part  with  a  portion,  however  small,   of 


CHINA. 


181 


the  scanty  supply  they  have  on  hand,  though  the  season  is  so  close  upon 
harvest.  A  snow-storm  to-day  reminds  us  of  winter,  and  our  further 
progress  must  be  slow  and  tedious  unless  we  hasten  our  steps  down  the 
country.  Nothing  loath,  we  set  our  faces  southward,  feeling  that  we 
shall  lose  little  and  gain  much  Ijy  tlie  change.  Our  path  leads  no  longer 
over  the  mountains,  but  along  tlie  valleys  of  one  of  these  upper  rivers 
in  the  direction  of  the  storied  Min,  and  the  main  roads  running  across 
the  Tibetan  border. 

Go  Mung  assures  us  that  this  is  good  hunting-ground,  and  thrilling 


AN    niNERAXT    BAKBKU. 


stories  are  told  of  adventures  with  wild  boars  and  brown  bears,  while  deer 
are  common.  We  have  seen  a  couple  of  monkeys,  which  wen'  large  and 
could  scarcely  see  for  the  long  hair  falling  over  their  eyes.  Otters  are 
to  be  seen  occasionally  along  the  streams,  while  the  forests  are  haunted 
by  a  yellow  wolf,  said  to  be  at  times  extremely  dangerous.  Birds  are 
not  plentiful  in  the  Somoan  territory,  the  only  kinds  that  we  have  seen 
being  the  crow,  blue  jay,  and  magpie,  but  we  are  told  that  the  ringed 
pheasants  are  quite  common  in  some  parts  of  the  province. 

The   lack   of   the    feathered   tribe   is  said  to  be  one  reason  why   the 


Chinese  have  not  pushed  into  the  corner  of  their  empire  more.  Be  that 
as  it  may,  we  notice  wherever  we  go  that  the  race  is  very  much  at- 
tached to  birds.  Like  the  Japanese,  the  Chinese  teach  their  children  to 
be  kind  to  all  creatures,  and  most  especially  to  the  birds.  It  is  natural 
this  should*  be  done,  for  they  place  implicit  faith  in  tlieir  soothsayers. 
If  a  Chinaman  wishes  to  peer  into  the  future,  he  immediately  resorts  to 
his  pet  bird  to  unravel  tlie  mystery.  He  spreads  sixty-four  cards  out, 
each  one  of  which  contains  on  one  side  the  picture  of  some  object  rendered 
grotesque  by  the  artist,  such  as  a  god,  a  beast,  a  human  figure,  or  a  bird, 
while  on  the  other  side  is  written  some  proverb  or  stanza  of  poetry. 
The  bird  is  next  freed  from  its  cage,  and,  trained  to  do  the  bidding  of 
its  master,  quickly  alights  by  the  cards  on  the  table.  After  looking  them 
over  as  a  true  oracle  would  be  expected  to  do,  it  selects  two  from  the 
lot  and  carries  them  to  its  master,  who  cons  them  carefully,  and  from 
what  is  written  oti  them  draws  his  deductions  as  to  the  future. 

Among  the  branches  of  the  stately  old  banyan-trees  in  the  grounds 
of  the  viceroy  at  Canton  live  several  cranes,  looking  very  beautiful  in 
their  abundant  plumage  of  a  lavender  hue,  set  off  with  fine  effect  by 
heavy  black  tail  feathers.  These  birds  are  guarded  with  zealous  watch- 
fulness, since  it  is  believed  that  the  good  fortune  of  the  city  rests  upon 
them,  and  that  they  have  a  governing  influence  with  the  overruling 
deity.  One  entire  street  in  this  city  is  devoted  to  the  sale  of  live  birds ; 
it  is  known  as  "  Bird-cage  Walk."  But  such  stores  are  not  confined  to 
Canton,  for  they  are  to  be  seen  everywhere  in  the  towns  of  the  empire, 
and  everywhere  are  birds  looked  upon  with  a  love  bordering  upon 
veneration. 

Among  the  favourite  birds  are  the  white  and  the  roseate  cockatoos. 
The  first  is  a  good-sized  and  beautiful  bird,  with  snow-white  plumage, 
crowned  by  a  crest  of  yellowish  hue,  and  looking  exceedingly  proud  and 
dignified  in  its  way  of  moving  about.  It  is  a  great  talker,  and  shows  a 
remarkable  sense  of  humour.  There  is  besides  a  sort  of  cousin  to  this 
proud  bird,  but  considerably  smaller,  that  has  faint  yellow  lines  on  its 
cheeks  and  a  pale  yellow  tuft.  This  is  easily  tamed,  but  never  becomes 
a  good  talker.  The  rose-crested  cockatoo  has  a  white  ground  touched 
here  and  there  with  a  faint  pink,  and  set  off  with  an  orange-coloured 
crest.     This  is  not  a  fluent  talker,  but  can  be  taught  to  say  a  few  words 


CHINA. 


183 


intelligently.  There  is  another  cockatoo  worthy  of  niention,  which  has 
pale  pink  throat  and  breast  and  head,  while  its  wings  and  tail  are  gray. 
But  perhaps  the  greatest  favourite  of  all  is  the  bird  with  the  crimson- 
barred  beak,  that  seems  to  change  the  colour  of  its  crest  at  will.  When 
this  is  at  rest  it  appears  to  be  a  pure  white,  but  the  moment  it  is  lifted 
red  bars  show,  and  then  yellow  spots,  which  soon  unite  into  stripes  of 
yellow,  so  that  the  bird  presents  a  marked    appearance.      Its   body   is 


THE    GKEAT    WALL    OF    CHINA. 


white,  while  its  head,  neck,  and  lower  parts  are  pink.  The  feathers  of 
its  crest  when  at  rest  incline  forward. 

Another  bird  much  prized  is  the  kingfisher,  the  prime  favourite  of  the 
small  birds,  while  of  the  larger  feathered  creatures  the  peacock  takes 
first  place.  This  handsome  bird  retains  all  of  the  beauty  and  pride  in 
the  Flowery  Kingdom  that  he  shows  in  any  other  country. 

A  pretty  idea,  Avhich  illustrates  the  Cliinese  character  in  this  respect, 
is  carried  out  among  the  children,  by  which  they  are  taught  to  be  merciful 
to  the  birds.  It  is  seldom  a  temple  is  found  where  some  aged  person  is 
not  seen  seated  upon  the  ground  selling  captive  birds.  The  price  of  these 
to  the  children  is  one  cash  each,  about  a  mill  in  value,  and  upon  paymg 


this  small  coin  the  child  takes  the  little  captive,  and  by  setting  it  tree 
is  led  to  believe  that  it  has  sent  an  offering  to  the  gate  of  heaven  which 
will  not  be  refused. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  beautiful  garden  of  Tali-fu,  near  the  ancient 
gateway  leading  to  the  ruined  joss-houses,  we  listened  to  the  song  of  a 
thrush,  and  saw  a  large  crowd  of  people  offering  tribute  to  the  songster. 
We  were  told  that  the  inhabitants  held  these  birds  in  hio-h  veneration. 


A    FARMER  S    SHED. 


Certainly  no  note  of  music  that  we  ever  heard  struck  more  delightfully 
on  our  ears.  Our  sight  was  gladdened,  as  we  passed  through  this 
country,  by  the  sight  of  occasional  flocks  of  these  birds  skimming  over 
our  heads. 

A  description  of  the  feathered  favourites  of  China  would  be  far  from 
complete  without  mention  of  those  intelligent,  though  far  less  beautiful, 
birds,  the  cormorants,  trained  to  perform  such  a  wonderful  part  in  fish- 
ing in  China  as  well  as  in  Japan,  We  remember  one  evening,  when  we 
were  tracking  up  the  river  in  southern  Yunnan,  as  the  pale  moon  was 


# 


CHINA.  185 

creeping  shyly  above  the  corrugated  crest  of  the  distant  mountain,  light- 
ing the  lonely  Asiatic  scene  with  its  Aveird  beams,  hearing  loud  cries 
ringing  on  the  still  air  like  the  shouts  of  many  huntsmen  at  the  heels  of 
their  hounds.  We  soon  learned  that  they  were  the  connnanding  "  Hoo  ! 
boo!  boo!"  of  a  party  of  cormorant  fishers,  and  a  little  later  a  strange 
sight  greeted  our  eyes.  It  is  wonderful  bow  all  these  birds  can  be  trained 
to  their  work.  We  noticed,  among  other  acts  of  striking  intelligence 
displayed  by  tbem,  that  twice,  when  a  bird  got  more  than  it  could 
handle,  it  would  call  for  help,  which  another  lost  no  time  in  offering, 
and  then  together  the  two  landed  their  fish  in  safety.  Cormorant  fishing 
in  China  is  very  similar  to  that  in  Japan. 

Our  talk  upon  birds  calls  from  Go  Mung  one  of  his  inimitable  tales 
of  those  days  when  man  and  creature  stood  very  near  to  each  other,  and 
did  one  to  the  other  many  kind  acts. 

"  There  was  a  certain  man  who  lived  in  the  great  greeuAvoods  surround- 
ing the  emperor's  summer  castle,  who  was  not  only  fluent  of  speech  with 
men,  but  who  could  converse  with  the  deer,  the  bear,  and  tbe  bird.  Of 
the  three  he  professed  to  love  the  bird  most,  and  it  was  said  that  he  spent 
nmcli  of  his  time  talking  with  the  feathered  creatures  living  near  his 
home. 

"  Word  of  this  came  to  the  emperor,  who  laughed  at  such  a  foolish 
story,  as  he  stroked  the  silken  fur  on  hisx favourite  cat,  declaring  that 
there  was  not  another  such  a  fine  creature  in  all  the  empire.  But  even 
this  sagacious  cat,  that  he  had  taught  man}^  wonderful  tricks,  could  not 
talk  so  that  he,  the  wise  ruler  of  the  people,  could  understand  a  thing  it 
said.  Was  it  reasonable,  then,  that  a  simple  woodsman  could  talk  with 
a  bird?  But  this  story  was  repeated  so  often  to  him  that  he  finally 
said  that,  if  some  one  Avould  show  him  the  path,  he  would  visit  this 
woodsman,  who  was  either  exceedingly  wise  or  extremely  foolish. 

"  At  that  very  hour,  which  was  the  twilight  of  a  day  that  left  the 
heart  mellow  with  kind  thoughts,  the  woodsman  was  sitting  at  his  door 
watching  tbe  antics  of  a  flock  of  birds  picking  up  the  crumbs  he  had 
tossed  to  them.  In  the  midst  of  this  good-natured  frolic,  from  which 
the  master  missed  his  pet,  the  absent  bird  suddenly  alighted  at  his  feet. 
It  had  come  with  a  great  whirr  of  the  wings,  and  appeared  very  much 
flustered.      He  was  about  to   speak,  to    ask   what   had    frightened   the 


poor   thing,  when  it  trilled  forth   in   its   sweet   voice,  which   had   now 
an  uncommon  quaver : 

"'  Ho,  Gold  jST'  Branch !  Gold  N'  Branch  !  ere  to-morrow's  tasks  are  done, 
Lo!  before  your  humble  door  will  stand  the  Majestic  One! ' 

"  This  was  a  startling  bit  of  news  for  a  humble  peasant  to  hear,  for 
Gold  N'  Branch  knew  w^ell  that  his  pet  had  warned  him  of  the  coming 
of  the  emperor.     He  was  puzzled  to    know   whether    this    meant   great 


BRIDGE    OVER    CANAL    AT    SARCHOW, 


honour  for  him.  or  whether  it  portended  evil.  In  vain  he  recalled  his 
past  life  to  think  of  an  act  which  the  most  illustrious  emperor  could 
look  upon  with  disfavour.  Having  delivered  its  message,  the  bird 
joined  its  mates  in  picking  up  the  crumbs  thrown  to  them  by  a  merciful 
master,  soon  becoming  the  most  merry  one  of  them  all. 

"  Not  knowing  whether  to  be  gay  or  sad,  Gold  N'  Branch  looked 
anxiously  forward  to  the  next  day,  and  when  it  had  come  he  grew  more 
nervous  as  the  hours  w^ore  on.  It  was  past  midday  when  he  caught  the 
flash  of  dazzling  uniforms  and  the  glitter  of  the  imperial  body-guard  of 
the  emperor.      He  had  schooled  himself  to  meet  the  ordeal  calmly,  but 


CHINA. 


187 


all  his  brave  resolutions  now  fled  from  him,  and  he  stood  as  weak  as  a 
little  child. 

"  As  Gold  N'  Branch  was  trying  to  calm  himself,  his  favourite  bird, 
that  had  warned  him  of  the  coming  of  his  Imperial  Majesty,  flew  down 
from  a  neighbouring  tree,  and  began  to  hop  about  at  his  feet.  At  that 
moment,  as  swift  as  a  ray  of  light,  a  long,  yellow  figure  sprang  from  the 
thicket  by  the  pathside  straight  toward  the  unsuspecting  bird.  Before 
Gold  N'  Branch  could  utter  a  warning  word  this  ferocious  creature  had 
seized  his  pet  in  its  mouth. 

''At  that  moment  the  imperial  train  paused  at  the  edge  of  the 
clearing. 

"The  sight  of  the 
terrible  peril  of  his 
beloved  bird  instantly 
stirred  the  sluggish 
blood  in  the  woods- 
man's veins,  and  he 
sprang  forward  to 
save  his  pet.  It  so 
happened  that  he  had 
been  holding  a  stout 
staff  in  his  hand,  and 
as  he  rushed  to  the 
rescue  of  the  bird  he 
lifted  this  high  over 
his  head  to  deal   the 

offender  a  fearful  blow.  In  vain  the  emperor  shouted  for  him  to  desist. 
Gold  N'  Branch  did  not  know  it  was  the  emperor's  favourite  cat  ^\■hich 
had  caught  his  pet,  and  even  if  he  had  it  would  have  been  doubtful  if 
he  had  spared  tlie  creature  that  terrific  l)low,  which  broke  its  l)ack. 

"The  poor  cat  released  its  hold  on  the  victim,  and  while  the  former 
was  undergoing  its  death  struggles  Gold  N'  Branch  caught  up  his  pet, 
and  began  to  caress  it  and  call  it  fondly  by  name.  He  was  too  dis- 
tracted to  heed  the  wrath  of  the  emperor,  who  ordered  that  every  effort 
be  made  to  save  the  life  of  his  favourite  cat,  while  he  turned  to  vent 
his  rage  on  the  hapless  woodsman. 


ENTKANCK  TO  CONFUCIAN  TEMTLK,  .NANKIN. 


"  When  Gold  N'  Branch  came  to  realise  the  enormity  of  his  deed, 
though  his  bird  had  escaped  without  serious  injury,  he  was  wild  with 
grief  and  terror.  The  emperor  ordered  him  to  be  taken  to  the  castle  to 
await  his  sentence  of  death,  and  his  yellow  cat  he  ordered  to  be  buried 
with  ceremonies  becoming  the  pet  of  an  emperor. 

"  Poor  Gold  N'  Branch  could  only  moan  out  his  anguish,  as  he  was 
led  away  to  his  prison.  Surely  the  visit  of  the  emperor  had  proved  a 
most  unfortunate  affair.  It  was  well  for  the  prisoner  that  the  emperor's 
sorrow  was  too  great  to  allow  him  to  think  of  dealing  with  the  man  who 
had  slain  his  cat  until  the  body  of  the  latter  had  been  given  proper 
burial. 

"  Thus,  while  the  hapless  woodsman  was  pining  in  his  prison,  he  heard 
a  low  tapping  at  his  window,  which  grew  louder  and  more  frequent, 
until  he  looked  up  to  see  his  beloved  bird  fluttering  about  as  if  it  would 
force  an  entrance. 

" '  Alas ! '  exclaimed  he,  '  I  shall  never  lay  my  hand  on  you  again, 
my  little  friend.  But  I  am  not  sorry  for  what  I  did,  though  it  was 
the  emperor's  cat  I  killed.' 

"  He  would  have  said  more,  but  the  bird  began  to  trill  in  its  most 
melodious  voice,  and  this  is  what  it  sang : 

"  '  Oh,  Gold  iST'  Branch  !  be  brave,  lest  your  emperor  be  slain, 
Warn  him  that  his  enemies  are  coming  swiftly  o'er  the  plain!* 

"Gold  N'  Branch  understood  at  once  the  meaning  of  this  message, 
and  he  began  to  wonder  how  he  could  get  the  startling  news  to  the 
emperor,  when  the  door  Avas  opened  and  he  was  led  out  to  meet  his  doom. 
The  danger  threatening  the  castle  gave  him  strength  to  stand  boldly 
lip,  and,  instead  of  cringing  before  the  great  emperor  when  he  was  brought 
into  his  august  presence,  he  boldly  warned  him  of  the  peril  at  that  mo- 
ment threatening  him.  But  his  imperial  majesty  was  not  in  a  mood  to 
listen  to  what  he  judged  was  some  foolish  subterfuge  to  gain  tune,  and 
he  commanded  that  the  murderer  of  his  cat  be  put  to  death  at  once. 
Poor  Gold  N'  Branch  was  in  worse  grief  than  ever.  But  before  he  was 
taken  away  his  pet  bird  flew  into  the  room,  and,  regardless  of  the  people, 
alighted  on  its  master's  hand,  singing  in  clear  notes :  > 


CHINA.  189 

" '  Like  his  kind  many  lives  has  the  emperors  yellow  cat, 
And  at  this  moment  he's  asleep  upon  his  favourite  mat ! ' 

"  When  the  woodsman  repeated  this  message  the  anger  of  the  emperor 
was  greater  than  ever,  for  he  believed  this  simple  lout  was  trifling  with 
him  in  his  sorrow.  But  behold !  in  the  midst  of  the  hubbub  one  of 
his  most  trusty  servants  rushed  into  his  presence,  declaring  that,  as 
wonderful  as  it  seemed,  the  yellow  cat  had  not  died,  but  escaping  those 


VIEW    ON    (iKANl)    CAKAL. 


who  had  gone  to  give  it  burial,  was  sleeping  then  on  its  own  mat.  Then 
there  was  rejoicing,  and  as  it  is  easy  to  convince  the  light-hearted,  Gold 
N'  Branch  soon  made  the  emperor  understand  that  his  most  feared  foes 
were  coming  to  attack  him  in  his  castle.  Little  time  was  there  to  spare 
in  the  preparations,  but  such  a  defence  was  made  before  the  enemies 
appeared,  thai,  the  emperor  was  saved  from  defeat.  As  soon  as  the 
stubborn  fight  was  over,  he  called  Gold  N'  Branch  into  his  presence, 
and  his  wonderful  bird  was  bidden  to  join  him,  when  the  Son  of  Heaven 
besought  this  humble  man's  forgiveness  for  thp  wrong  he  had  done  him. 


He  also  offered  the  woodsman  a  place  in  his  imperial  court  as  private 
adviser  to  him.  But  the  other  preferred  to  live  alone  in  the  great  green- 
woods with  his  pets,  so  he  was  graciously  allowed  to  return  to  his  home, 
though  it  was  said  the  emperor  visited  him  often  to  consult  upon 
momentous  matters." 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

VILLAGE    LIFE. 

THOUGH  it  is  past  the  harvest  season  of  that  curious  calling  known 
as  "wax  farming,"  we  are  reminded  of  it  by  accounts  of  the 
peculiar  industry.  In  the  brown,  pear-shaped  bunches  or  galls 
of  an  evergreen  called  the  "  insect  tree  "  is  born  the  queer  little  insect 
that  produces  that  valuable  commodity  of  export,  white  wax.  But  the 
wax  is  obtained  only  by  removing  its  makers  from  their  original  place  to 
another  stumpy  growth  called  the  "  wax  tree."  In  the  month  of  May 
the  galls  are  gathered  and  carried  by  night  to  their  destination.  It  is 
not  best  to  move  them  by  day,  as  the  rays  of  the  sun  would  bring  the 
insects  forth  on  the  journey.  As  little  travelling  is  done  in  China  after 
nightfall,  and  the  gates  of  the  towns  are  closed,  this  becomes  a  more 
difficult  matter.  But  upon  these  occasions  the  gates  are  left  open,  by 
order  of  the  officials,  for  the  benefit  of  these  travellers.  As  a  rule,  a  tree 
is  stocked  with  the  insects  during  the  second  year  of  its  growth,  and 
it  ceases  to  be  profitable  after  the  fifth  year,  when  it  is  cut  down  and 
young  shoots  are  allowed  to  take  its  place.  The  tree  is  really  little 
more  than  a  stump  from  six  to  twelve  feet  in  height,  with  several  small 
branches  thrown  up  from  the  top,  making  it  look  like  a  pollard  willow. 
The  eggs  of  the  insect  are  laid  in  a  nest  about  the  size  of  a  child's  fist, 
which  is  removed  by  cutting  off  a  part  of  the  branch  to  which  it  belongs, 
a,nd  is  then  separated  from  it  by  being  soaked  in  a  solution  made  from 
husked  rice.  These  nests  to  the  number  of  twenty  or  more  are  Wrapped 
in  a  leaf  of  the  wood-oil  tree,  and  the  package  is  fastened  with  rice  straw 
to  the  new  tree.  In  a  few  days  the  galls  begin  to  swell,  and  soon  after 
very  minute  creatures'  appear,  soon  increasing  in  size.  Upon  leaving  the 
gall  the  insects  begin  to  crawl  up  the  branches,  depositing  the  wax,  which 
in  the  course  of  two  or  three  months  becomes  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness.      The  branches  are  then  removed,  and  after  all   the   wax   is 


scraped  off  that  can  be  easily,  the  piece  of  wood  is  immersed  in  a  vessel 
of  hot  water,  when  tlie  remainder  of  the  wax  rises  on  the  surface,  while 
its  makers  sink  to  the  bottom,  having  completed  their  life  vith  the  end  of 
their  usefulness.     It  is  believed  the  wax  is  secreted  by  the  insects  while 

they  are  in  an  un- 
healthy condition. 

At  the  temple  of 
Lo-Chiang-Hsien  is 
pointed  out  to  the 
stranger  the  grave 
of  one  of  China's 
heroes,  and  the 
story  of  Pai-Ma- 
Kuan,  or  "  Pass  of 
the  White  Horse," 
is  retold  in  vivid 
words.  It  is  a  tale 
of  one  of  China's 
famous  rulers 
named  Liu-Pi,  who, 
following  the  rout 
of  a  disastrous 
battle,  was  forced 
to  seek  escape  in 
flight.  As  he  al- 
ways rode  a  milk- 
white  horse,  he  was 
easily  discovered  by 
his  foes.  In  the 
midst  of  his  efforts 
to  escape  from  his 
enemies,  who  were  instructed  to  kill  him  upon  sight,  he  was  found 
by  his  prime  minister,  Pong-Tung.  Knowing  the  small  chance  his 
emperor  had  of  eluding  his  foes,  this  brave  man  resolved  on  a  desper- 
ate attempt  to  save  his  life.  Aware  that  his  imperial  friend  would 
not   consent   to   his  plan,    did  he    know   its   full  intention,   he   tried  to 


A    CHINESE    STUDENT. 


CHINA. 


lo: 


induce  Liu-Pi  to  exchange  horses  with  him  under  the  pretence  that 
his  was  the  fleetest  animaL  Without  dreaming  of  the  real  purpose  of 
the  change,  the  emperor  agreed  to  it,  and  each  went  his  way  in  opposite 
directions.  The  prime  minister  was  a  cunning  man,  but  so  close  were  the 
enemies  upon  them,  that  mounted  on  the  white  steed  he  was  soon  dis- 
covered. In  the  furious  pursuit  given  him  he  was  killed.  Believing  him 
to  'be  the  emperor,  as  he  was  riding  the  other's  famous  horse,  the  tri- 
umphant enemies  retired  now  from  the  chase,  so  that  Liu-Pi  had  no 
difficulty  in  escaping.  His  grief  was  something  to  be  remembered  when  he 
learned  how  his 
faithful  friend 
had  sacrificed 
his  life  for  him, 
and  he  caused 
his  body  to  be 
buried  with  great 
honour  at  Lo- 
Chiang-Hsien. 
Chinese  history, 
though  not  scin- 
tillating with 
deeds  of  warlike 
bravery  equal  to 
those    of    Japan, 

has  nevertheless  many  heroes,  and  its   historians  picture    many  acts  of 
valour. 

Szechuan  has  many  pai-fangs,  or  "widow's  arches,"  erected  with  tlie 
same  object  as  tliose  spoken  of  in  Southern  China.  Some  of  these  are 
splendid  affairs,  more  magnificent  than  those  recently  described,  'i'he 
approach  to  many  of  the  villages,  besides  being  marked  l»y  conspicuous 
pagodas,  leads  under  several  of  these  noble  archways.  They  are  con- 
structed of  stone,  and,  differing  from  the  plain  torii  of  Japan,  are  rendered  ■ 
attractive  with  fine  carvings,  representing  familiar  scenes  in  life,  such 
as  the  interior  of  a  rich  man's  dwelling,  a  body  of  officials  at  a  banquet, 
a  court  scene,  or  some  traditional  liero  l)attling  an  enem}^  Li  one  of 
these  we  see  the  picture  of  Pong-Tung,  flying  from  his  enemies  on  the 


COFFIN    TUNNKL    AT    AN    KMPKHOH'.S    TOMB. 


back  of  the  emperor's  famous  white  horse,  which  was  the  cause  that 
brought  forth  the  story.  The  work  of  the  sculptor  is  most  admirably 
done,  but  in  none  of  it  is  there  any  evidence  of  originality  or  imagination. 
He  chisels  with  wonderful  fidelity  what  he  has  seen,  or  copies  what 
another  has  done,  and  is  content.  As  in  the  south,  these  arches  are 
raised,  not  only  to  the  widows  who  have  remained  true  to  the  memory 
of  their  departed  husbands,  but  to  the  glorification  of  some  one  who 
devoted  his  life  to  religion,  or  for  some  military  leader.  That  these 
monuments  really  mean  something  that  is  not  prized  cheaply  is  shown 
by  the  fact  that  the  consent  of  the  emperor  has  to  be  obtained  before  one 
can  be  raised.  It  may  be  a  relic  of  some  religion  which  has  passed  away, 
as  the  torii  of  Japan  is  a  symbol  of  Shintoism.  There  is  evidence  to 
show  that  the  splendid  structures  seen  in  Szechuan  are  the  outgrowth 
of  plainer  ones  which  existed  at  former  times. 

The  dreary  pass  of  Tsu-ku-shan  was  climbed  after  a  tedious  ascent  of 
nearly  three  hours.  The  view  from  its  summit  is  grand  and  widespread- 
ing,  over  a  hundred  mountain  peaks  being  visible  on  a  clear  day.  But 
it  was  chilly  at  that  altitude,  and  we  hastened  toward  the  valley  at  our 
feet.  At  nightfall  we  were  troubled  to  find  shelter  and  food,  being 
obliged,  finally,  to  stop  in  the  yard  of  a  set  of  buildings,  the  owners  of 
which  had  gone  away  and  left  them  fastened.  We  noticed  this  evening 
one  of  the  finest  herds  of  yaks  we  had  seen. 

The  next  morning  we  pass  through  a  beautiful  grove  of  chestnut-trees, 
but  our  whole  day's  journey  does  not  take  us  in  sight  of  a  village,  though 
here  and  there  we  see  numerous  dwellings  scattered  over  the  country. 
Unlike  the  inhabitants  of  the  provinces  we  have  recently  passed  through, 
the  people  of  Szechuan  are  not  disposed  to  live  in  bunches,  but  spread 
out  over  the  landscape.  There  is,  however,  a  certain  clannish  aspect 
about  the  manner  of  settlement,  which  is  claimed  by  some  to  have  arisen 
from  the  fact  that  the  original  settlers  were  sent  in  trains  to  populate 
this  rich  region,  and  thus  became  distributed  more  evenly  over  the 
country.  A  more  likely  theory  is  that  the  inhabitants  of  this  section 
were  disturbed  less  by  enenyes,  so  the  protection  arising  from  collecting 
in  communities  has  not  been  necessary.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  people, 
who  are  largely  farmers,  live  in  a  style  whicli  reminds  us  of  the  baronies 
of  the  days  of  feudalism  in  Europe.     There  are  the  large  dwellings  over- 


CHINA 


195 


topped  with  massive  roofs,  in  which  Hve  the  hand-owners ;  these  are 
reached  through  heavy  gateways,  and  are  surrounded  Ij}'  wide  verandas. 
Near  these  establishments,  and  inchided  in  the  scene,  are  the  cottages 
of  the  dependents,  who  obtain  their  living  by  working  for  the  "  baron  " 
at  a  low  wage  rate.  These  dwellings  are  of  good  size,  with  whitewashed 
walls,  showing  prominently  the  black  timbers,  and  have  roofs  that  slant 
with   a    regular    descent  from   ridgepole   to   eaves,  giving  them   an    odd 


1>KA(.<).V     IH.Mri.K    Al     MM.rc). 


appearance  after  one  has  seen  the  peculiar  Chinese  roofs,  with  their 
characteristic  curves  or  twists  at  the  corners.  On  the  whoh',  one  of  these 
estates  has  a  decidedly  patriarchal  look. 

If,  in  certain  respects,  Chinese  cities  appear  to  be  "laid  out"  witli 
an  attempt  at  uniformity,  as  much  cannot  be  said  of  the  villages.  Tliese 
are  developed  just  as  circumstances  happen  to  make  them.  If  tliere  are 
streets,  these  are  not  run  with  any  regard  for  each  other.  The  first 
settler  built  liis  dwelling  where  he  thought  best;    another  followed  his 


example.  It  was  necessary  to  have  a  path  to  get  to  these,  and  soon 
afterward,  in  the  spirit  of  neighbourliness,  to  connect  them.  A  third  built 
him  a  house ;  the  consequence,  —  another  path,  or  a  continuation  of  the 
first,  running,  it  may  be,  at  sharp  angles.  Other  houses,  other  paths, 
other  streets ;  but  no  system  about  them.  They  may  be  narrow  at  first, 
suddenly  to  widen  into  a  broad  way,  or  vice  versa.  The  chances  are 
they  will  begin  narrow  and  grow  narrower  I  Tt  is  the  exception,  rather 
than  the  rule,  when  one  of  these  so-called  streets  is  wide  enough  to  admit 
of  a  team  passing  another  without  trespassing  upon  the  adjoining  lot. 
Then  it  may  be  that  the  streets  of  a  village  all  run  one  way,  with  no 
alley  cutting  across  wide  enough  for  a  person  with  a  vehicle  to  get  across. 
The  houses,  if  they  stand  on  one  of  these  streets,  present  a  blank  wall 
to  the  public  way,  else  the  good  fortune  of  the  dwelling  would  be  spoilt. 
Should  a  door  happen  to  be  on  that  side,  it  is  sheltered  by  a  screen  wall, 
to  keep  out  the  gaze  of  the  public.  Thus  these  dwellings  open  upon  a 
narrow  alleyway,  or  small  court.  But  even  these  afford  no  room  for 
the  domestic  animals  or  for  the  children  to  play  in,  and  the  result  is,  that 
the  streets,  as  impassable  as  they  naturally  are,  are  filled  with  a  noisy 
throng  of  brutes  and  human  beings.  There  is,  too,  that  invariable  crowd- 
ing. Miles  of  habitable  country  may  stretch  away  on  any  or  every 
quarter,  but  the  inhabitants  seem  utterly  oblivious  of  this,  and  huddle 
together  in  the  closest  proximity  possible.  This  is  true  of  the  city;  it 
is  true  also  of  the  country  village,  be  it  remote  or  near  the  populous 
sections. 

The  stranger,  upon  first  seeing  one  of  the  large  centres  of  people, 
exclaims :  "  The  streets  may  run  as  they  may,  but  the  general  boundary 
of  the  town  is  square."  This  can  be  said  with  as  much  truth  of  the 
hexagonal  box.  This  delusion  comes  from  the  city  walls,  —  all  cities 
are  walled,  and  many  of  the  villages.  But  if  these  walls  had  been  built 
by  the  square  and  compass,  w^oe,  then,  to  the  "  luck  "  of  the  town,  accord- 
ing to  the  Chinese  notion.  There  must  be  turns  and  angles  and  odd- 
shaped  corners,  and  you  will  find  them  all  there,  with  a  few  thrown  in 
for  tally. 

As  a  rule,  plenty  of  building  material  may  be  found  in  the  country, 
but  the  Chinaman  builds  with  that  which  happens  to  be  handiest  and 
the  easiest  to  obtain,  without  regard  to  the  result.     Poorly  made  brick 


CHINA. 


197 


are  the  most  common  mcaterial  with  which  houses  are  made.  These  are 
not  half  burned,  so  they  make  short-Uved  material,  and  the  kilns  are  sealed 
lip  tight,  to  avoid  fuel,  and  thus  give  the  bricks  a  sickly  gray  coloiu\ 
The  bricks  are  filled  with  air-holes,  and  thus  absorb  a  great  amount  of 
moisture.  In  the  mountainous  districts  stones  from  the  uplands  are  used, 
and  these  dwellings  are  dark,  damp,  and  unhealthful.  But  these  are 
palaces  compared  with  the  cave-dwellings  of  the  "  loess  region,"  whose 
only  window  and  opening  for  ventilation  is  a  place  of  entrance  in  front, 


WHEELBAKUOW    FOR    CARRYING    lAbftKNC.KliS. 


though  this  matter  of  ventilation  never  seems  to  enter  into  the  calcula- 
tion of  the  Chinese  carpenter. 

The  most  common  building  material  in  the  country  is  a  brick  two  or 
three  inches  thick,  a  foot  in  width,  and  a  foot  and  a  half  to  two  feet  in 
length,  made  from  the  native  soil  by  simply  uiouldiug  it  into  the  required 
shape  and  size,  and  left  in  the  sun  until  dried.  The  cost  is  nominal  — 
a  cash  apiece  —  when  done  in  the  simplest  manner.  Some  are  stamped 
while  in  the  mould,  which  doubles  their  cost.  The  walls  of  these  houses 
have  a  foundation  of  brick,  and  are  supposed  to  have  posts  to  support 


the  roof,  but  these  last  are  frequently  omitted,  and  the  result  is  that, 
when  a  heavy  rain  soaks  the  walls,  they  sometimes  crumble  away,  and 
the  occupants  within  are  crushed  to  death  by  the  descending  roof.  The 
roof  itself  is  most  frequently  constructed  of  reeds  or  sorghum  stalks, 
which  become  exceedingly  heavy  when  soaked  with  water.  In  the  better 
class  of  houses  roofs  are  seen  with  frames,  resembling  an  American  house, 
but  more  often  posts  support  timbers  running  the  length  of  the  building, 


DKAWURIDGi:    CUNXKCTIXG    WHARF    AND    Cll^,     NANKIN. 


upon  which  rest  the  ends  of  small  purlines,  that  hold  up  the  thin  brick. 
In  the  region  of  the  North  Plain  of  China  the  amount  of  soda  in  the  soil 
makes  the  building  show  signs  of  decay. 

The  Chinese  are  not  given  to  display  or  variety,  so  the  buildings 
everywhere,  in  the  city  and  country,  show  an  unending  sameness,  over 
all  of  which  are  stamped  the  imprints  of  dreariness  and  decay.  Neither 
wealth  nor  political  distinction  creates  sufficient  incentive  to  cause  the 
owner  to  outstrip  his  neighbour  in  the  beauty  of  his  home. 


CHINA.  199 

Another  peculiar  feature  of  the  Chinese  house,  or,  correctly  speaking, 
set  of  houses,  is  the  practice,  not  of  dividing  one's  dwelling  into  rooms 
or  apartments,  but  as  often  as  one  wants  another  room,  of  building  on 
another  section.  There  is  no  ceiling,  so  that  the  roof,  whether  low  or 
high,  usually  the  former,  is  in  full  sight,  its  sooted  space  festooned  with 
all  sorts  of  household  utensils  not  in  use  at  the  time,  many  of  which 
have  to  be  brought  by  means  of  a  long  pole  when  needed,  and  hung  with 
cobwebs  and  soot  and  dust.  The  floor  has  no  covering  over  the  earth, 
and  instead  of  being  smoothed  out,  as  might  be  expected,  is  pounded  to 
get  the  required  hardness  without  any  attempt  to  remove  unevenness. 
In  fact,  an  inequality  of  surface  is  looked  upon  as  a  desirable  feature, 
as  this  will  allow  all  water  and  running  liquid  to  drain  away,  whereas 
if  the  surface  were  level  it  would  stand  in  pools !  There  is  so  little  room 
for  the  necessary  implements  of  the  house  that  they  are  piled  in  some 
corner,  along  with  the  harvest  of  the  fields,  the  tools  used  to  till  the 
land,  the  looms  for  weaving  the  cloth,  the  wheels  for  spinning,  the 
benches  and  chairs,  everything  in  use  about  the  home,  save  that  which 
has  found  a  place  in  the  roof  overhead.  In  the  homes  of  the  learned 
will  be  found,  suspended  from  two  pegs,  a  board,  which  simple  contrivance 
holds  the  library  of  the  scholar. 

Worse  than  this  primitive  arrangement  for  comfort  and  convenience 
is  the  utter  lack  of  proper  ventilation.  Doors  do  not  open  directly  from 
the  building  to  the  open  air,  and  the  windows,  when  there  are  any  on 
the  side  toward  the  street,  are  small  and  high.  The  window  is  made  a 
safeguard  against  thieves  by  a  wooden  grating,  and  often  over  this  an 
oiled  paper  is  spread.  The  cooking  boiler,  built  saucer-shape  and  very 
thin,  so  as  to  take  as  little  fuel  as  possible,  is  placed  near  the  door.  In 
that  part  of  the  empire  where  some  provision  must  be  made  to  heat  the 
apartment  in  winter,  this  is  done  by  an  arrangement  of  flues  to  carry 
the  smoke  under  a  kang  or  sort  of  divan,  which  is  but  a  platform  built 
up  of  adobe  brick,  and  which,  reminding  one  of  the  dwellings  of  Russian 
peasants,  is  the  sleeping-place  of  the  occupants  of  the  house.  On  a 
primitive  couch  are  laid  the  bedclothes  and  whatever  else  is  needed  to 
keep  dry,  this  being  the  only  spot  in  the  building  free  from  moisture. 
The  place  of  escape  for  the  smoke  is  near  the  ground,  if  the  roof  be 
thatched,  as  a  precaution  against  fire.     It  is  not  surprising  to  find  tliat 


the  smoke  remains  mostly  in  the  dwelling,  and  often  fills  the  house, 
which  soon  becomes  dark,  grimy,  and  thickly  coated  with  creosote. 
Despite  all  this  precaution  and  arrangement,  the  cooking  would  be  a 
failure  were  it  not  for  the  image  of  that  kitchen  god,  Chang-kung, 
suspended  just  above  the  little  Chinese  stove.  This  deified  mortal 
is  said  to  have  lived  somewhat  over  a  thousand  years  ago,  and  was  of 
such  a  happy  disposition  that  he  dwelt  wdth  his  family  in  perfect  har- 
mony even  to  the  last  of  his  days,  when  as  many  as  nine  generations 


SOLDIKKS    PKACTISIXG    THE    AKT    OF    SELF -OEKENCE. 


of  his  race  lived  with  him.  Nor  was  this  the  extent  of  his  benign 
influence,  for  his  large  number  of  dogs,  supposed  to  have  been  over 
a  hundred,  never  quarrelled  among  themselves  as  dogs  are  wont  to 
do,  and  if  one  of  the  number  chanced  to  be  belated  at  meal-time,  the 
others  also  waited  for  his  arrival  before  beginning  to  eat.  The  emperor, 
anxious  to  learn  the  wonderful  secret  of  such  family  harmony,  sent 
for  the  old  peacemaker  to  come  and  explain  this  power,  in  the  hope 
that  he  might  profit  by  it.  Instead  of  going  to  his  emperor,  the  aged 
sage    took    a    pen    and    began   to    write    in    bold    Chinese    characters 


CHINA. 


201 


the  single  word  Forbearance.  Upon  learning  this,  the  emperor 
ordered  the  image  of  this  wise  man  to  be  given  a  prominent  place  in 
every  home  in  the  land.  Unfortunately,  the  example  failed  to  prove 
of  sufficient  influence  to  accomplish,  in  all  cases,  the  good  purpose 
intended,  though  the  good  it  did  do  is  beyond  estimation. 

In  such  homes  as  we  have  briefly  described,  live  and  have   lived  the 
countless  people  of  the  great  Middle  Kingdom,  suffering  from  the  cold 


PAVILION     AND    rOND,     NEAR    CHINKIANCi. 

in  winter  and  from  the  heat  in  summer,  and  from  the  .snioke  and  foul 
air  at  all  times.  Besides  these  uncomfortable  features,  another  wliich 
would  prove  unbearable  to  the  American  race  is  the  great  number  of 
insects  and  vermin  lurking  in  every  part  of  these  poor  dwellings,  in  the 
adobe  walls,  in  the  earth  floor,  in  every  corner  and  crevice,  in  and  around 
the  articles  of  furniture,  in  the  household  utensils,  in  the  very  air. 

Outside  the  dwelling  is  equal  confusion  and  unsightliness.  In  the 
small  yard  described,  the  children,  cats,  dogs,  pigs,  chickens,  and  other 
creatures  strive   with    each    other  for  a   share   of   the    playground,    the 


entire  collection  alwcays  under  the  feet  of  the  grown  members  of  the 
human  family.  The  insecurity  of  these  primitive  habitations,  which 
render  it  easy  for  the  thief  to  break  in  and  steal  what  he  wishes,  has 
made  it  desirable  to  wall  the  country  towns  whenever  this  could  be 
done,  as  a  matter  of  safety.  In  case  of  war  or  trouble,  the  inhabitants 
of  the  unprotected  towns  flee  for  protection  to  those  more  favoured,  the 
moment  the  alarm  of  impending  danger  is  sent  abroad.  This  leaves 
the  abandoned  village  open  to  an  unresisting  despoliation  by  the  enemy. 
That  such  an  advantage  is  seldom  allowed  to  pass  unimproved,  is 
shown  but  too  well  by  the  great  number  of  country  villages  lying  in 
ruin  and  desolation  wherever  one  goes. 

Many  of  the  villages  have  a  public  fireplace  situated  in  the  middle 
of  a  huge  brick  chimney,  standing  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  where 
it  is  customary  to  burn  all  written  papers.  Some  of  these  receptacles 
are  rectangular  in  form,  and  resemble  a  small  factory  chimney;  while 
others,  built  in  several  tiers,  are  pagodas  in  miniature,  and  take  the 
palm  for  ugliness. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

THE    COUNTEY    SCHOOLS. 

WHILE  in  Szecliuan  we  find  an  exception  to  the  foregoing  rule 
We  are  also  forcibly  reminded  that  no  rule,  however  fixed,  can 
be  applied  with  the  same  result  everywhere.  It  is  true  that 
wherever  one  goes  the  race  shows  its  distinguishing  features  invariably. 
We  notice  it  alike  in  foreign  lands  and  in  our  own  country.  The  fio-ure 
does  not  materially  change,  whether  in  the  seaboard  cities,  on  the  plains 
of  Yunnan,  in  the  "  Red  Basin  "  of  Szecliuan,  on  the  fertile  meadows 
of  Yangtse  Kiang,  or  along  the  banks  of  the  Yellow  River. 

The  shaven  head  and  the  long  dark  queue  is  seen  constantly,  and 
we  are  everywhere  painfully  aware  of  the  deformed  feet  of  the  women. 
The  almost  universal  costume  of  a  Chinaman  is  a  pair  of  blue  or  white 
cotton  drawers,  made  loose,  over  wdiich  he  draws  a  pair  of  yello^v  or 
salmon  gaiters,  low  behind  but  high  in  front,  and  fastened  around  the 
ankles.  Stockings  and  shoes  complete  his  outfit  in  this  direction.  His 
body  is  clothed  in  a  long  blue  coat  resembling  a  nightgown,  tied  at  the 
sides.  Under  it  he  wears  a  white  jacket.  Over  it  he  dons  an  easy-fittino- 
padded  jacket  made  of  silk,  with  a  wide  collar  which  can  be  turned  up  or 
down.  He  crowns  all  with  a  "  cup-shaped  hat,"  from  under  which  falls 
the  universal  queue.  In  case  the  sun's  heat  is  uncommonly  fierce,  he 
tries  to  ward  off  its  fervour  with  a  prodigious  straw  hat,  often  made 
two  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter,  and  of  such  weight  as  to  be  burdensome 
to  the  wearer.  All  this  is  typical,  it  must  be  understood,  but  tliere  are 
local  customs  and  prejudices.  The  Chinaman  in  Mao-pao  might  wear 
this  style  of  hat  without  hesitation,  l^ut  the  same  person  would  exchange 
it  for  another  very  quickly  when  he  came  into  one  of  the  u})-country 
districts. 

While  there  is  a  monotonous  resemblance  in  the  severe  plainness  of  the 
architecture  of  the  buildings,  we  are  constantly  finding  new  styles  of 
houses,  as  there  are  new  environments.     The  West  River  has  one  form 


of  boats  for  traffic,  the  rivers  of  Yunnan  another,  the  Min  yet  a  third 
kind,  and  so  on  almost  indefinitely.  The  natural  features  of  the  country 
are  responsible  for  this  variation,  as  they  are  for  many  others.  What 
is  fit  for  one  quarter  is  unfit  for  another,  and  an  empire  so  vast  in  area 
must  afford  a  marked  difference  in  places.  On  one  part  of  our  journey 
we  see  burdens  carried  in  wicker  baskets  fixed  in  wooden  pack-saddles 
fitted  to  human  backs ;  presently  we  meet  with  bearers  whose  loads  are 


BUDDHIST    ABBOT    AND    PRIESTS    IN    FULL    CANONICALS. 


slung  on  bamboo  poles  made  to  rest  on  their  shoulders.  In  one  region 
long  trains  of  oxen  move  sluggishly  across  the  plains  with  their  loads  ol 
produce,  but  these  useful  animals  disappear  the  moment  we  come  in 
sight  of  one  of  the  great  inland  waterways.  The  state  and  facilities 
of  the  soil  naturally  govern  the  quality  of  the  food  partaken  of  by  the 
people. 

Mrs.  Bishop,  in   speaking  of  this  diversity  of  cause  and  result,  says : 
"  It  exposes  the  veracity  of  the  travellers  to  suspicion.     One  may  describe 


CHINA. 


205 


some  peculiarity  which  is  universal  in  one  region,  such  as  the  graceful 
circular  or  pointed  arclies  of  its  bridges ;  while  another,  whose  sole  idea 
of  a  Chinese  bridge  is  stone  uprights  carrying  flat  stone  slabs,  such  as  the 
huge,  lumbering  structure  which  with  its  wearisome  but  needful  length 
bestrides  the  Min  at  Fuchau,  accuses  him  of  having  drawn  upon  his  im- 
agination for  his  facts."  Although  this  may  seem  to  contradict  the  state- 
ment that  the  Chinese  are  not  an  inventive  people,  it  realh'  proves  it.     As 


WATEi:-JARS    OF     KAHTIIENWA  KK.     SIIANCIIAI. 


each  district  began  to  build  or  work,  according  as  its  condition  or  situa- 
tion warranted,  so  has  that  method  been  carried  out,  generation  succeed- 
ing generation.  The  inhabitant  of  Szechuan  would  no  more  adopt  the 
customs  of  Yunnan  than  the  closest  follower  of  fashion  would  wear 
the  style  of  last  year.  Then  there  is  another  reason  for  this  diversity 
of  custom  which  comes  from  the  utter  ignorance  that  the  dwellers  in 
one  quarter  have  of  another.  Different  in  this  respect,  as  in  all  others, 
from  the  Slav  and  the  Saxon,  the  Chinaman  lacks  the  roving  nature  be- 
longing to  an  emigrant.      He  is  not  an  explorer,  a  pioneer  even.     The 


overworked  and  poorly  fed  labourer  of  the  Red  Basin  in  Szechuan 
toils  on  in  blissful  ignorance  that  in  the  valley  of  the  West  River  are 
acres  of  fertile  land,  which  under  his  careful  husbandry  might  be  made 
to  yield  him  a  comfortable  living,  or  that  thousands  of  deserted  homes 
in  Yunnan  lack  only  the  coming  of  the  superfluous  families  lingering 
on  the  verge  of  starvation  in  the  too  thickly  populated  regions,  in 
order  to  be  made  into  prosperous  and  happy  homes.  The  government 
of  China  might  learn  a  good  lesson  in  migration  if  it  would  but  im- 
prove its  opportunities. 

We  still  miss  the  birds.  We  have  seen  a  pheasant  to-day,  but  the 
woods  remind  us  of  the  Black  Forest,  where  the  only  sound  that  breaks 
the  silence  of  the  solitude  for  miles  is  the  footfall  of  the  intruder,  nearly 
muffled  by  the  carpet  of  pine  needles.  If  the  forests  are  lonely,  the 
farmyards  are  scarcely  better  stocked  in  proportion.  We  see  no  mules, 
horses,  goats,  or  cattle,  though  there  are  ducks  and  geese  to  overrunning, 
and  of  cats  and  dogs  a  surfeit. 

When  the  farmer  wishes  to  plough  or  harrow  his  rice-field  he  harnesses 
the  homely,  awkward,  hairless  buffalo,  or  "  water-ox,"  and  hitches  him 
to  a  primitive  plough  that  hardly  more  than  scratches  the  ground. 
The  furrows  run  zigzag  across  the  land,  the  Chinaman  having  no  eye 
for  the  symmetrical.  He  does  like  to  be  his  own  boss,  however,  and 
no  matter  on  how  small  a  scale  he  is  doing  business,  or  carrying  on  his 
farming,  he  feels  better  satisfied  with  his  little  corner  of  rice,  or  miniature 
patch  of  cotton,  than  he  would  be  to  work  for  another  at  a  princely 
income.  This  very  fact  has  been  one  of  the  great  causes  that  has 
kept  the  lower  class  poor.  With  the  same  clumsy  brute  with  which 
the  Chinaman  cultivates  the  land  he  turns  his  oil  and  grain  mills.  This 
slur  upon  the  true  ox  is  an  unprepossessing  creature,  and  it  is  said 
that  his  looks  do  not  belie  his  temper  when  he  is  aroused  by  fright 
or  dislike. 

Although  the  region  is  lacking  in  bird  life,  there  are  numerous  flowers, 
some  of  which  are  beautiful  and  of  prodigious  size.  In  the  flowering 
season  the  roadways  and  hedges  are  profuse  with  pink  and  white 
blossoms,  while  the  margins  of  the  woods  are  gemmed  with  pretty  purple 
violets  and  clusters  of  yellow  clematis.  We  are  reminded  of  Japan  in 
the  prodigal  display  of  plum  and  cherry  blossoms. 


CHINA. 


207 


A  pessimistic  writer  has  said,  with  a  hint  at  the  truth  and  a  touch  of 
satire,  that  China  is  a  land  of  contradiction,  "  a  country  where  the  women 
have  no  petticoats,  and  the  magistrates  no  honour;  where  old  men  fl}- 
kites,  and  puzzled  people  scratch  their  backs  instead  of  their  heads,  where 
the  seat  of  honour  is  on  the  left,  and  the  abode  of  intellect  is  in  the 
stomach ;  where  to  take  off  the  hat  is  an  act  of  insolence,  and  to  wear 
white  is  to  go  into  mourning." 

Farming  is  done  by  methods  peculiar  to  the  Chinese  husbandman.  A 
piece  of  ground  under  cultivation  has  to   be  cleared  of  the  stubble  of 


PORTICO    AT    NANKIN. 


the  previous  crop  before  it  can  be  ploughed  for  another.  Thus  a  man 
with  a  hoe  digs  up  the  roots,  and  another  follows  him  with  a  heavy 
mallet  to  knock  off  the  earth  that  may  be  clinging  to  them.  A  third 
collects  the  roots  into  a  basket,  while  a  fourth  goes  after  him  witli  a 
rake  to  scratch  over  the  ground  to  l)e  sure  that  not  a  rootlet  or  blade 
of  grass  remains.  Finally,  the  entire  lot  that  has  been  collected  is 
stacked  for  fuel  when  needed. 

At  Chengtu-fu,  situated  near  the  River  Min,  or  Fu,  as  the  Chinese 
call  the  stream  here,  we  come  upon  what  is  claimed  to  l)e  the  best  road 
in  China.  It  is  a  fine  hiuhway  as  far  as  we  see  it,  for  our  course  is  still 
southward,  while*  this  noted  road  connects  the  west  with   the  east.     It 


is  well  paved  with  slabs  of  stone,  and  has  some  handsome  stone  bridges 
where  it  crosses  the  nmnerous  streams  running  across  the  country.  While 
China  has  many  large  rivers,  the  American  cannot  fail  to  be  surprised  at 
the  small  number  of  minor  watercourses  and  brooks.  To  this  lack  of 
small  streams  is  due  the  frequent  freshets  of  the  large  rivers. 

Nowhere  are  there  finer  specimens  of  bridges  than  are  to  be  seen  in 
this  province,  both  in  regard  to  strength  and  design.     The  piers  generally 


THE    PROVISION    MARKET,    HONGKEW. 


terminate  in  carvings  of  fantastic  figures,  more  often  dragons  than  any- 
thing else,  though  sometimes  scenes  of  every-day  life  are  represented, 
such  as  a  woman  carrying  a  tub  of  water,  a  man  pulling  another's  fingers, 
or  some  ridiculous  scene.  While  all  are  executed  with  rare  skill,  nothing 
shows  originality  in  the  conception.  The  builders  of  these  bridges  were 
skilled  workmen,  and  some  of  them  have  as  many  as  four  or  five  arches, 
that  are  thrown  over  the  intervening  space  with  a  daring  and  graceful 
arch.  It  looks  a  little  singular  to  see  a  road  scarcely  wide  enough  for 
an  ordinary  vehicle  to  move  along,  leading  upon  a  bridge  with  sufficient 


CHINA. 


209 


breadth  for  three  carriages  to  drive  abreast.  But  these  bridges  are 
constructed  under  different  conditions  from  those  described  as  applying 
to  the  roads.  When  not  built  by  a  popular  subscription,  whicli  is 
liberally  supported,  they  are  donated  by  some  individual  of  wealth, 
whose  name  and  generous  deed  are  recorded  in  characters  cut  in  tlie 
stones. 

We  cross  a  stone  bridge  which  has  as  many  as  twelve  arches,  presenting 
elaborate  carvings  and  proofs  of  strength  and  durability. 


■tH 


NANKIX    AXD    THE    PURPLE    MOUNTAIN. 


Besides  the  stone  bridges  there  are  in  this  province  many  substantial 
wooden  ones,  which  are  roofed  over,  the  tops  laid  with  tiles,  tlu'  uprights 
being  very  conspicuous  in  their  coat  of  red  lacquer.  These  bridges  are 
the  presents  of  public-spirited  citizens,  whose  names  are  inscribed  in  gold 
characters,  alons;  with  some  flattering:  sentiment.  Unlike  the  bridf]!:es  in 
Yunnan,  that  show  so  much  of  the  inroads  of  decay,  all  the  bridges 
in  this  province  that  we  have  seen  are  in  good  repair.  These  bridges  are 
of  recent  construction,  while  there  are  occasionally  seen  older  ones  built 
with  long  flags  and  heavy  stone  posts.     Tt  is  seldom  that  a  traveller  in 


China,  whatever  he  may  have  to  say  against  the  roads,  has  to  ford  a 
stream. 

Chengtu-fu  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile  district  noted  for  its 
rice  crops,  which  never  fail,  owing  to  the  unceasing  supply  of  water 
afforded  by  the  sparkling  streams  flowing  down  from  their  fountainheads 
in  mountains  of  the  north.  The  largest  of  these,  the  Min  (Fu),  is  sup- 
posed to  have  its  source  in  the  Bayan  Range,  and  is  a  rapid  stream 
bounding  over  a  rocky  bed  until  reaching  the  plain  of  Chengtu-fu.  Other 
rivers  unite  with  it,  so  that  it  becomes  an  important  stream  of  so  much 
consequence  that  by  some  it  is  looked  upon  as  the  main  branch  of  the 
Great  River.  Regarded  from  a  commercial  point  of  view,  this  offers 
good  grounds  for  belief,  as  the  Yangtse  Kiang .  is  navigable  only  forty 
miles  above  the  junction  of  this  river,  while  it  is  the  passageway  for 
boats  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  before  joining  the  other.  The 
rice-fields  of  Chengtu-fu  are  conducted  with  the  simple  methods  of  irriga- 
tion practised  by  the  Chinese.  The  river  is  made  to  flow  into  numerous 
channels,  meandering  over  the  landscape.  These  are  again  separated 
into  many  small  canals,  and  these  subdivided  into  smaller  "  ducts." 
Finally,  the  water  is  pumped  up  by  primitive  treadmills  run  by  human 
power,  and  the  water  distributed,  so  that  not  an  acre  of  this  territory 
is  denied  its  perennial  supply  of  water. 

To  our  east,  beyond  this  fertile  tract  of  level  country,  lies  that  still 
more  noted  locality  called  "  The  Red  Basin,"  rich  in  its  resources,  and 
overflowing  with  its  population.  No  part  of  China,  and  few  regions,  if 
any,  in  the  world,  supports  so  large  a  number  of  people  to  the  square 
mile  as  this  section  of  Szechuan.  In  the  Red  Valley  mentioned  the 
soil  is  given  the  most  careful  attention,  so  that  often  as  many  as  four 
crops  a  year  are  harvested  from  the  same  patch.  It  is  only  through  this 
economical  cultivation  that  the  inhabitants  find  enough  to  live  upon. 
Even  then,  if  anything  happens  to  cut  short  one  of  the  crops  ever  so 
little,  it  is  sure  to  bring  suffering  to  many,  and  often  whole  communities 
linger  on  the  verge  of  starvation  for  weeks  at  a  time.  But  the  people 
do  not  murmur.  They  are  exceptionally  industrious,  and  free  from  the 
vices  of  the  larger  centres  of  population.  Year  by  year  the  population 
is  •  increasing,  while  the  output  of  the  soil  reached  its  limit  some  time 
since.     The  day  would  seem  to  be  near  when    emigration  from   these 


CHINA. 


211 


fertile  regions,  the  garden  of  China,  must  begin.  Here  is  a  case  where 
a  loss  will  be  a  decided  gain,  while  w^ierever  these  industrious  people  go 
influence  for  good  will  accompany  them. 

In  the  schools  of  a  country  lies  the  future  of  its  government.  While 
in  Southern  China  we  visited  several  of  these  "seats  of  learning,"  only 
to  find  that  a  description  of  one  w^ould  answ^er  for  all.  The  schoolroom 
is  a    curious  combination  of  simplicity,  wisdom,  and  superstition.     The 


IMAGES    OF    THE    LOHANS    (ATTENDANT    DEITIES). 

schoolrooms  that  we  saw  there  were  about  a  dozen  feet  square,  with 
small  tables  and  short,  narrow  benches,  after  the  usual  pattern  of  Chinese 
benches,  for  the  convenience  of  the  scholars.  A  table  of  equal  plainness 
and  a  bench  of  similar  dimensions  afforded  such  accommodations  as  the 
teacher  required.  Like  all  Chinese  buildings,  it  had  no  roof,  but  in  the 
dirty,  black  space  overhead  were  hung  from  the  rafters  a  few  paper 
*lanterns.  In  a  distant  corner  a  small,  hideous-looking  image  peered 
down  upon  the  scene  below,  a  god  of  w^atch fulness.  A  table  opposite 
the  seats  occupied  by  the  pupils  supported  two  wooden  figures,  as  repulsive 


as  that  in  the  roof,  and  were  supposed  to  represent  the  god  and  goddess 
of  learning.  These  stood  out  in  bold  relief  in  their  coats  of  bright  red, 
yellow,  and  blue,  three  colours  that  seem  to  be  prime  favourites  with  the 
people.  Just  apart  from  this  stood  a  stone  tablet  beariug  an  inscription 
in  Chinese  characters,  one  of  the  wise  sayings  of  Confucius.  These 
completed  the  permanent  fixtures  of  the  gloomy  place,  whence  the  be- 
wildered pupils  were  expected  to  come  forth  in  a  few  years  full-fledged 
in  the  primary  knowledge  of  reading  and  writing,  and  with  a  sort  of 
smatterino;  of  the  ancient  classics. 

The  schoolhouses  of  Szechuan  are  equally  plain,  and  everything  about 
them  bears  the  same  air  of  unpretentiousness.  Several  plain  tables,  rude 
benches  for  the  pupils,  some  "  ink-stones,"  and  a  chair  for  the  teacher 
comprise  the  main  features,  excepting,  of  course,  the  middle-aged  peda- 
gogue and  his  industrious  pupils,  whose  ages  range  from  seven  to  fourteen. 
Overhead  the  rafters  bear  a  tablet  with  a  Confucian  inscription,  and  on 
the  side  of  the  room,  situated  in  a  niche  that  seems  to  have  been  made 
especially  for  it,  is  a  life-size  figure  of  the  Chinese  god  of  literature.  In 
front  of  this  is  a  small  wooden  box  partly  filled  with  sand,  and  containing 
incense  sticks  which  are  kept  constantly  smouldering. 

General  confusion  reigns  in  the  schoolroom,  from  the  fact  that  each 
pupil  studies  his  lesson  by  repeating  it  over  in  a  loud  tone.  This  is  done, 
we  are  told,  everywhere  in  China,  and  the  object  is  to  show  that  the 
pupil  is  studious.  The  result,  where  there  are  thirty  or  more  voices 
pitched  in  keys  that  make  a  volume  which  has  small  claim  to  harinony, 
may  be  imagined,  but  cannot  be  appreciated  by  an  American  teacher. 
When  the  scholar  believes  he  has  mastered  his  lesson  he  raises  his  hand, 
and  then  recites  it  with  his  back  to  the  teacher,  so  he  may  not  look  on 
the  book.  There  seem  to  be  few,  if  any,  classes  in  recitation.  Upon 
entering  the  schoolroom  the  scholar  makes  his  obeisance  in  front  of  the 
tablet  dedicated  to  Confucius,  salutes  his  teacher,  and  then  takes  his 
seat.  At  the  close  of  the  session  of  school  he  is  expected  to  repeat  this 
ceremony. 

Above  this  primary  school  not  many  of  the  pupils  ever  rise,  and  it 
is  a  wonder  they  acquire  as  much  knowledge  as  they  do.  The  number' 
of  hours  thus  occupied  would  tire  out  the  American  boy,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  teacher.     School  opens  promptly  at  sunrise,  and  continues  until  ten 


CHINA. 


213 


o'clock,  when  an  intermission  of  one  hour  follows,  after  which  the  school 
begins  another  session,  which  lasts  until  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
Upon  beginning  his  school  career  the  pupil  is  given  his  shu-mincj,  or  "  book 
name,"  which  he  bears  through  the  rest  of  his  life. 

The  school  which  we  are  describing  is  one  of  the  primary  grade,  but, 
as  humble  as  it  is,  the  majoiity  of  the  pupils  here  will  never  know  any 
other.  It  forms  to-day,  as  it  has  done  for  hundreds  of  years,  the  sum 
and  substance  of  the  education  of  the  great  mass  of  people.  It  is  a  dull, 
dreary  attempt  to  acquire  knowledge  of  a  literature  without  an  alphabet, 


KUINS    OF    EMPP.Kol;    YrN(i     Soil   S     loAlll,    na.NKI.N. 


and  a  language  without  a  grammar.  The  weariness  of  memorising  sounds 
that  have  no  meaning,  and  of  l)ecoming  familiar  with  forms  that  have 
no  natural  sequence  in  their  sliape,  is  one  that  only  a  Chinaman  could 
safely  undertake  to  master.  This  rudimentary  part  of  his  education 
requires  about  two  years  to  complete,  when  llie  more  earnest  work  of 
applying  these  principles  to  the  meaning  of  words  begins. 

Whatever  may  be  the  blemishes  of  the  Chinese  system  of  education, 
as  judged  by  a  foreigner,  and  to  him  it  is  a  monstrous  example  of  mis- 
guided effort,  the  man  of  letters  is  looked  upon  as  a  superior  being. 
Naturally  so,  for  it  is  only  by  the  ladder  of  education  that  any  person, 


be  he  of  high  or  low  birth,  can  reach  the  honours  and  emoluments  of 
official  position.  The  moral  precepts  included  in  this  form  of  education 
are  more  numerous  than  those  of  any  other  system  in  the  world,  excepting, 
of  course,  Biblical  instruction,  and  the  wisdom  imparted  in  proverbs  and 
illustrations  is  something  marvellous.  No  stage  of  life  from  the  cradle 
to  the  grave  is  overlooked ;  the  charity  unto  others,  the  virtues  of  home, 
the  righteousness  of  public  life,  the  filial  obligations  of  the  young,  — 
nothing  is  forgotten  or  omitted.  The  "  Trimetrical  Classics,"  consisting 
of  six  introductory  school-books,  arranged  in  178  double  lines  or  columns, 
begin  with  the  mooted  saying :  "  Men  at  their  birth  are  by  nature  per- 
fect." This  is  followed  by  declaring  that  "  mutual  affection  of  father  and 
son  ;  concord  of  man  and  wife  ;  the  older  brother's  kindness  ;  the  younger 
one's  respect ;  order  between  seniors  and  juniors  ;  friendship  among  associ- 
ates ;  on  the  prince's  part  regard  ;  on  the  minister's,  true  loyalty,  —  these 
moral  duties  are  for  ever  binding  among  men."  Worthy  examples, 
noble  deeds  from  the  lives  of  noted  wise  men  and  statesmen,  conclude 
this  work,  and  this  book  is  followed  by  others  of  equal  and  even  greater 
beauty.  These  good  and  high  interpretations  of  life  cannot  fail  to  fix 
on  the  mind  of  the  learner  the  nobler  attributes  of  true  manhood.  These 
schools,  history  shows,  have  been  in  existence  for  over  three  thousand 
years.  How  much  longer  is  only  conjecture,  but  it  must  have  been  for  a 
long  period. 

In  spite  of  this,  under  the  surface,  there  is  something  radically  wrong. 
The  race,  or  more  correctly  speaking,  the  races,  have  been  capable  of 
great  possibilities.  That  they  have  not  realised  this  is  too  well  known 
to  need  reiteration.  We  can  find  no  more  fitting  illustration  of  this 
failure  than  in  the  fact  that  at  Chung-Ching,  within  sight  and  sound  of 
one  of  these  schools,  the  good  luck  of  the  region  is  ensured  by  the  firing 
of  a  gun  from  one  of  the  mountainsides  on  the  first  day  of  the  tenth 
month  of  each  year.  The  hand  at  the  helm  of  Chinese  education  has 
steered  the  craft  into  the  rapids  of  ignorance  and  superstition  rather  than 
out  into  the  broad  river  of  enlightenment  and  intercourse  with  the  outside 
world.  Like  the  mighty  River  of  the  Golden  Sand,  the  Chinese  may  have 
been  capable  of  becoming  a  Son  of  the  Sea,  but  have  proved  to  themselves 
and  others  a  Hoang-ho,  or  "River  of  Sorrow." 


A  1      AND     KICK    .1  INK. 


CHAPTER   XIX. 


THE    WOMEN    OF    CHINA. 


AT  Chengtu-fu  we  gladly  part  with  our  ponies,  and  once  more  begin 
our  passage  by  boat.  From  this  point  the  interest  of  our  trip 
increases,  though  we  have  turned  our  backs  on  the  mountains  and 
their  lonely  grandeur.  But  all  this  is  more  than  made  up  for  in  the 
cheerfulness  of  the  country  as  we  progress  down  the  river.  Everywhere 
we  see  evidence  of  the  thrift  and  prosperity  of  the  people.  This  is 
indeed  one  of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  China.  Fruit-trees  are  abun- 
dant, forming  pretty  groves  about  the  hamlets  that  line  the  river,  while 
every  eminence  of  land  that  is  not  cultivated  is  capped  with  clumps  of 
bamboos  and  pines.  Rows  of  mulberry-trees  mark  the  dividing  lines 
between  the  fields,  while  beautiful  lawns  reach  down  to  the  very  water's 
edge  from  the  homesteads  along  the  way.  In  their  season  this  must  be 
a  region  of  flowers.  Our  native  companions  seem  to  catch  the  spirit  of 
the  peaceful  and  prosperous  scene,  and  we  forget  the  trials  and  hardships 
that  are  past  in  the  peace  and  enjoyment  of  the  present  trip. 


To-day  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  majestic  and  sacred  mountain,  Omei 
Shan,  which  rises  into  the  clear  sky  on  our  right,  as  we  glide  down  the 
river.  Three  places  are  especially  sacred  to  the  Buddhism  of  China : 
Mount  Omei  in  Szechuan ;  Mount  Wutai  in  Shansi ;  and  the  island  of 
Pootoo,  on  the  rim  of  the  Chusan  Archipelago,  in  the  Yellow  Sea.  In 
the  first  place,  there  is  a  temple  tlie  dome  of  which  is  made  of  brick,  an 
unusual  thing  in  China.  In  fact,  this,  it  is  claimed,  was  never  built  by 
mortal  hands,  but  simply  appeared  on  the  scene  through  divine  power. 
At  this  sacred  mount  is  to  be  seen  a  wonderful  bronze  Pusa  riding  a 
colossal  bronze  elephant,  its  feet  standing  in  lotus  flowers. 

As  it  will  necessitate  a  considerable  delay,  we  do  not  turn  from  our 
course  to  visit  Mount  Omei,  which  we  find  was  sacred  long  before  the 
creed  of  Buddha  was  preached  in  the  Chinese  Empire.  A  recent  visitor 
to  this  place  describes  a  great  number  of  temples,  annually  visited  by  a 
large  number  of  pilgrims,  and  speaks  of  the  deep  impressiveness  of  the 
scene,  until  we  recall  our  own  enthusiasm  over  Nikko,  the  city  of  temples 
in  Japan.  Some  two  hundred  miles  up  North  River  from  Canton,  v/e  saw 
the  image  of  Kwon-yin,  the  Chinese  goddess  of  nature.  Go  Mung  has 
a  fund  of  poetical  tales  to  tell  concerning  this  famous  abode  of  gods  and 
goddesses.  His  legend  of  Kwon-yin  is  very  similar  to  that  given  in 
regard  to  her  who  sits  enthroned  on  her  lotus  flower  in  the  cavern 
of  North  River.  He  describes  how  the  tiger  came  to  be  worshipped 
here,  as  it  is,  in  connection  with  the  Goddess  of  Children,  who  is  repre- 
sented as  sitting  on  the  back  of  a  tiger.  This  ferocious  feline  plays 
an  important  and  frequent  part  in  the  fables  of  China.  Go  Mung  goes 
on  to  tell  how,  during  one  of  the  wars,  a  man  and  his  wife  fled  to  the 
mountains  for  safety,  forgetting  in  their  fright  their  little  son. 
Presently  a  tiger  finds  the  forsaken  child,  and,  though  hungry  from 
long  fasting,  controls  his  appetite  and  bears  away  to  his  lair  in  the  hill- 
side the  helpless  little  one.  Then  it  nourishes  it,  until  the  child  has 
grown  so  as  to  be  able  to  care  for  itself.  The  tiger  then  carries  the 
boy  to  one  of  the  villages,  where  he  is  cared  for,  and  grows  up  to  be 
a  great  and  good  man.  For  that  humane  act  the  tiger  is  placed  among 
the  deities  of  the  mountains. 

About  125  miles  below  Chengtu-fu,  we  pass  under  frowning  bluffs 
of   red   sandstone,   covered   with    stalwart    trees,   from   between    whose 


CHINA. 


217 


branches  we  catch  frequent  gUmpses  of  temples  and  pagodas,  stand- 
ing out  boldly  in  their  bright  colours.  We  pass  cliffs  blazoned  with 
strange  characters,  over  which  azaleas  and  gardenias  hang,  with  bright- 
coloured  foliage,  and  then  our  gaze  becomes  fixed  on  rows  of  houses 
on  the  opposite  embankment.  We  have  come  to  the  important  citv 
of  the  three  rivers,  the  Min,  Ya,  and  Talu.     The  streams  together  form 


THE  DRUM  TOWER,  NANKIN. 


what   looks   like   a   lake,  before  finally  uniting  and  sweeping  on  toward 
the  south  as  one,  the  Min,  or  Yu. 

The  city  so  boldly  outlined  on  the  red  sandstone  bluff  is  the  prosperous 
capital  of  this  section  of  the  beautiful  and  productive  province.  This 
town  by  the  name  of  Kia-ting  has  a  population  estimated  at  fifty  thou- 
sand. It  proves  to  be  one  of  the  liveliest  Chinese  cities  that  we  have 
seen,  and  is  of  great  commercial  importance,  being  at  the  head  of  that 
river  navigation  which  is  the  outlet  of  this  rich  region.  The  trade  in 
white  wax,  of  which  we  have  spoken,  ends  here,  while  Kia-ting  is  the 
centre  of  the  silk-weaving  industry  of  this  province.  Considerable  trade 
is  also  carried  on  here  in  opium,  while  this  is  a  place  of  the  output  of 


timber  from  the  interior.  We  are  in  season  to  see  a  long  train  of  devotees 
just  leaving  for  their  annual  pilgrimage  to  the  temples  of  Omei  Shan  and 
the  "  Glory  of  Buddha,"  already  described. 

In  the  wall  of  rock  facing  us  we  discover  a  mighty  figure  of  Buddha 
chiselled  in  the  rocky  escarpment.  It  is  claimed  to  be  nearly  four  hundred 
feet  in  height,  with  features  in  proportion.  The  distance  from  the  chin 
to  the  forehead  is  over  thirty  feet,  while  the  nose  alone  is  over  five  feet 


Bl'l)l)Hl>-T    I'RIE.STS    AT    WORSHIP. 


in  length.  In  order  to  give  the  appearance  of  life  to  it,  grass  is  allowed 
to  grow  on  the  head,  eyebrows,  upper  lip,  and  ears,  so  it  would  seem 
from  a  distance  that  hair  was  growing  in  those  places.  The  figure  is 
said  to  be  over  a  thousand  3'ears  old. 

We  enter  the  city  by  the  South  Gate,  and  after  climbing  a  steady 
ascent,  gain  a  point  of  view  where  one  of  the  finest  panoramas  of  the 
surrounding  country  tliat  we  have  seen  is  unfolded  to  our  gaze.  The 
course  of  the  wall  is  easily  traced  by  its  bright  red  sandstone  sides,  with 


CHINA.  219 

a  few  layers  of  light-coloured  l^rick.  The  Canadian  Methodists  have 
their  mission-house  at  the  place,  while  this  is  also  the  headquarters  of 
the  China  Inland  Mission.  At  this  city,  for  the  first  time,  we  liear 
rumours  of  complaints  against  foreigners,  though  we  have  no  trouljle. 

Reluctantly  we  bid  adieu  to  Kia-ting,  and,  stepping  aboard  our  ym2:)an, 
or  light  boat,  resume  our  journey.  This  locality  is  noted  for  its  cliff 
dwellings,  many  of  which  are  to  be  seen  from  the  river.  Some  of  these 
are  almost  inaccessible  to  the  ordinary  climber.  These  are  generally 
reached  from  above  rather  than  from  below,  and  such  haA^e  in  many 
cases  wide  platforms  at  the  entrance.  Where  the  face  of  the  rock}^  wall 
has  been  smoothed  off,  projections  a  foot  or  more  in  width,  looking  like 
the  eaves  of  a  common  dwelling,  have  been  left  as  a  protection  against 
water  running  down  upon  them.  Considerable  architectural  skill  is 
displayed  in  the  construction  of  these  singular  abodes,  and  show  that 
the  occupants  must  have  been  enlightened  people.  The  height  of  the 
doorway  would  seem  to  indicate  that  they  were  undersized,  though  this 
idea  is  not  carried  out  in  other  parts  of  the  dwellings.  Others  that  we 
did  not  see  ma.y  have  higher  entrances.  This  one  had  three  rooms, 
the  largest  of  which  was  twenty  by  twenty-five  feet,  and  is  over  seven 
feet  in  height.  It  contains  a  stone  altar  and  a  stone  water-tank,  while 
there  are  stone  settees  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  With  a  back  hollowed  so 
as  to  fit  the  sitter's  body.  Stone  pivots  remain  upon  which  the  doors 
swing,  and  over  the  outer  door  is  a  fine  frieze  more  than  eighteen  inches 
in  height.  Altogether  these  odd  dwellings  betray  careful  (inish,  and 
awaken  a  curious  interest  in  the  visitor  in  resrard  to  those  who,  in  tlio  davs 
long  since  passed,  made  them  their  homes. 

We  often  read  of  terraced  hills  in  China,  but  we  have  seen  very  little 
of  them  since  we  left  the  lower  part  of  West  River.  This  kind  of  talk  is 
repeated  too  often.  Many  of  the  hills  are  too  barren  to  be  cultivated 
profitably,  while  there  are  not  enough  people  to  demand  such  an  economic 
course. 

At  one  of  the  smaller  towns  on  the  Min  we  see  a  party  of  women  who 
have  walked,  it  is  said  by  those  who  ought  to  Ivuow,  over  twenty-five 
miles  to  get  there,  and  who  are  expecting  to  return  to  their  homes  on 
foot  the  same  day.  Fifty  miles  between  suns  is  no  slight  trip  for  a  mm; 
to  take,  and   how  these   women  with  their   crippled   feet   can  perforir. 


the  journey  is  beyond  our  comprehension.     It  is  pcainful  to  us  to   see 
them  waddle  about.     It  cannot  be  called  walking. 

Foot-binding  is  practically  universal  in  China.  It  is  true  there  are 
those,  especially  in  the  Yunnan  province,  that  belong  to  the  poorer  class 
who  let  their  feet  alone  on  account  of  their  work ;  but  they  form  a  small 
exception.  It  is  the  fashion,  and  no  maid  would  stand  any  chance  of  an 
"  honourable  marriage  "  did  she  neglect  this  painful  duty.  And  it  must 
be  painful  in  the  extreme.  With  the  better  class  it  is  generally  done 
before  the  child  is  five   years   old.     It  consists   in   bending  four  of  the 


RUINS    IN    THE    OLD    PALACE    GROUNDS,    NANKIN. 

toes  under  the  foot,  while  the  big  toe  is  bent  back  upon  the  top  of  the 
foot,  while  all  are  kept  in  their  respective  positions  by  being  tightly 
bandaged.  In  order  to  retain  the  "  beauty "  of  this  shape,  the  woman 
must  bandage  her  foot  every  day  in  her  life.  These  bandages  are  not 
covered  with  stockings,  but  soft  shoes,  often  embroidered  with  silk,  and 
having  soles  of  stitched  leather,  are  often  worn  over  them.  These  shoes 
are  generally  home-made. 

Among  the  poorer  class  this  foot-binding  may  not  take  place  until  the 
girl  is  betrothed,  which  may  be  as  late  as  ten  or  twelve  years.  The 
process  is  then  much  more  painful,  and  a  deep  rent  across  the  under 
part  of  the  foot  is  often  made,  which  has  to  be  drawn  closely  together 


CHINA. 


221 


and  fastened  there.  The  suffering  cannot  be  other  than  intense,  but  it 
is  borne  with  a  fortitude  worthy  of  a  better  cause.  Still  there  is  much 
to  show  why  it  should  be  endured,  for  the  lives  of  the  women  of  the 
lower  class  are  hard  and  pitiable.  Even  as  wives  of  the  well-to-do, 
their  situation  is  harsh  enough.  Chinese  women  are  very  susceptible 
to  flattery,  and  to  attain  what  is  considered  admirable  and  desirable  in 
personal   appearance,  no   sacrifice    is   held    to   be    too    great.     The    light 


OHNAMKNTAL    ROOFS    AND    BHICKWOHK     (SICIIAU). 

in  which  this  monstrous  practice  of  foot-binding  is  viewed  is  shown 
by  the  poetical  expression  of  "  The  Golden  Lilies,"  when  reference  is 
made  to  these  deformed  feet. 

So  firmly  rooted  has  this  custom  become  that  China  has  had  no  ruler 
powerful  enough  to  remove  the  bane,  and  the  greatest  emperor  who  ever 
sat  upon  the  throne  dared  not  make  the  attempt.  Even  tlie  admission 
of  Tartar  and  Mancliu  influence  has  done  nothing  toward  accomplishing 
its  abolition.  Occidental  teachings  and  example  have,  however,  made 
a  beginning  in  this  respect.     Foot-binding  is  followed  in  a  modified  form 


at  the  capital,  and  it  is  hoped  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  this 
enliglitenment  will  spread  over  the  country.  When  it  does  come  it  will 
be  like  the  light  of  the  rising  sun  penetrating  swiftly  to  the  remote 
corners  of  the  empire. 

Along  with  this  it  is   hoped  will   come   an  emancipation  from  many 
of   the   drudgeries   of  life  which  fall  to  the  lot  of  the   Chinese  women. 
To  say  nothing   of  the  slavery  and  suffering  experienced  by  a  Chinese 
woman  in  the  care  of  rearing  a  large  family,  which  makes  a  beautiful 
bride  of  sixteen  faded  at  thirty,   and  ugly  and  wrinkled  at  forty,  her 
work  besides  this  is  actually  never  done,   until   she   has    entered   upon 
that  long  rest  in  which  the  sleep  is  unbroken.     Nearly  everything  worn 
by  the  family  is  made  at  home,  and  she  is  expected  to  do  it.     Then  there 
is  the  wadded  bedding,  as  well  as  the  wadded  garments,  which  requires 
frequent  attention,  having   to  be    ripped    open   and   washed   and    aired. 
In  the  season  of  the  ripening  fruit  the  orchards  have  to  be  watched  for 
weeks,  and  the  women  have  to   do  more  than  their  part   in  this    care. 
During   the   harvest-time  the    Chinese  woman   is    called   into    the    field, 
holding  her  own   with   her   brother   or   husband.     When    the   threshing 
comes  on  she  is  again  among  the  men  workers.     In  the  cotton  growing 
districts  she  is  almost  constantly  in  the  field,  until  she  leaves  that  to 
begin  the  ginning,  spinning,  cording,  winding,  weaving,  again  making  up  the 
cloth  into  padded  garments,  and  then  back  to  the  field,  to  the  picking,  and 
all  that  follows.     The  introduction  of  cotton  mills  into  some  of  the  cities 
has  already  made  its  sharp  competition  felt  in  the  remote  cotton  districts, 
where  the  weaving  has  been  and  is  done  on  a  clumsy  hand-loom,  which 
has  now  to  be   kept  in   constant  motion  in  order  that  the  family  may 
keep  the   wolf   from   breaking  through  the   door   of  the    damp,   musty, 
unhealthful   dwelling.     In  order  to  do  this,  the  man  takes  his  place  at 
the    weaving   until   midnight,   when  his    wife    rises    from    her    troubled 
sleep    to  continue  the  weary  work  until  morning.     In  consideration  of 
this  unremitting  toil,  one  can  almost  forgive  them  for   being  slovenly 
in   their   habits. 

Except  for  the  inhuman  treatment  of  the  feet,  the  dress  of  the 
Nu-jin,  or  Chinese  woman,  is  more  nearly  correct  than  that  of  almost 
any  other  race.  No  restraints  are  placed  upon  the  development  of  the 
figure,  and  the  foreign  women  who  have  worn  the  Chinese  costume  have 


CHINA. 


223 


declared  that  the  latter  is  more  comfortable  than  their  own.  It  is  the 
universal  practice  for  Cliinese  women  to  wear  trousers,  thouo>h  in  some 
localities  these  are  not  allowed  to  show  below  the  skirt.  In  this  province 
the  skirt  or  petticoat,  worn  only  in  certain  districts,  is  not  considered 
necessary,  and  the  full  trousers,  swathed  closely  about  the  ankles,  are 
considered  the  proper  thing.  Over  them  is  worn  an  ordinary,  loose- 
fitting  garment,  having  sleeves,  and  reaching  to  the  knees.     The  petticoat 


MISSION    HOSPITAL,    XAXKIX. 


is  worn  here  only  by  the  very  lowest   class,    women  who  are  outcasts 
from  good  society. 

The  Chinese  belle  has  been  poetically  pictured,  and  the  Chinese  picture 
nothing  that  is  not  poetical,  as  having  "  cheeks  like  the  almond  flower, 
lips  like  a  peach  blossom,  a  waist  like  a  willow  leaf,  eyes  as  bright  as 
the  ripples  dancing  in  the  sun,  and  footsteps  like  the  lotus  flower ! " 
It  is  certain  that,  despite  all  their  drudgery  and  hard  work  in  life, 
despite  the  scorn  that  is  directed  against  the  sex,  the  women  of  no  race 
try  more  earnestly  to  dress  well  and  in  fashion  than  those  of  China. 
If  a    considerable   percentage    of  the    poorer   classes    are   obliged    to    let 


nature  shape  their  feet,  there  is  not  a  woman  in  the  vast  empire  but 
dreams  of  the  happy  day  when  her  feet  shall  be  transformed  into 
"  golden  lilies,"  as  the  perfection  of  womanly  grace  and  charm,  and 
not  a  man,  if  he  belong  to  good  society,  dreams  of  marrying  a  woman 

who  has  neglected 
this  duty. 

We  liave  again 
been  reminded  to- 
day of  the  constant 
embarrassment  a 
foreigner  encoun- 
ters in  addressing 
the  Chinese,  on 
account  of  the  ab- 
sence in  the  lan- 
guage of  such 
common  terms  as 
Mister  or  Master. 
It  is  true  Go  Mung 
has  fallen  into  the 
habit  of  addressing 
us  as  "Master,"  but 
this  he  has  picked 
up  wdtli  his  smat- 
tering of  the  foreign 
tongue.  In  the  sea- 
board towns  it  is 
quite  safe  to  apply 
terms  that  denote 
specific  honour,  but  back  here  that  will  not  do.  The  Chinaman  acts  some 
under  the  belief  that  "  All  are  brethren  within  the  four  seas,"  and  thus 
addresses  a  stranger  of  his  own  age  thus  :  "  Noble  brother,  wait  thou 
throw  the  rays  of  thy  light  upon  my  clouded  vision  enough  to  show  me 
if  this  is  the  proper  way  to  Sui-fu?"  Should  the  man  be  older,  he 
would  address  him  as  "  Uncle,"  or  "  Grandfather."  This  rule  looks 
simple,    but    when    we     find    that     different     significations    are    given 


GUOTKSQUELY-SHAPED    ROCKS. 


CHINA.  225 

according  to  the  age  of  the  "uncle"  or  ''grandfather,"  ^ve  give  up  in 
despair. 

A  woman  in  China  has  actually  no  name  at  all,  she  heing  spoken  of 
in  an  indirect  manner  if  unmarried,  while  if  married  she  has  two  sur- 
names, that  of  her  father  and  that  of  her  husband,  but  as  these  may  have 
many  duplicates  in  the  place,  it  affords  no  real  distinction  for  her.  It 
is  thus  more  difficult  for  a  stranger  to  address  women  than  men.  Such 
terms  as  ta-niamj,  or  "aunt,"  sao-tsu,  "elder  sister-in-law,"  and  nai-naiy 
"  grandmother,"  very  nearly  cover  all  possible  cases,  according  to  Chinese 
ideas  of  propriety.  It  is  easy  to  see  how  confusion  is  likely  to  arise  at 
any  time,  especially  when  there  happens  to  be  more  than  one  generation 
of  women  in  the  family,  as  there  is  usually. 

We  witness  to-day  a  wedding  train,  and  our  Chinese  attendants  go 
into  ecstasies  over  the  "happy  event,"  for  Avhile  the  Chinaman  does  not 
look  for  happiness  in  the  home,  the  ceremony  which  leads  to  the  con- 
summation of  that  end  is  considered  a  joyous  occasion.  So,  for  that 
matter,  is  a  funeral  hailed  with  delight  by  a  wide  circle  of  poor  relatives. 
This  comes  from  the  popular  objects  of  the  dead  man's  life,  which  are  to 
have  on  certain  occasions  bountiful  feasts,  no  matter  how  limited  the 
resources  of  the  deceased  may  have  been.  Two  of  the  most  fitting  times 
for  feasting  and  festivity  are  the  wedding  and  the  funeral.  In  no  country 
is  the  wedding  feast  made  so  much  of  as  in  China. 

Marriage  customs  differ  widely  in  various  parts  of  China,  but  the 
feast  is  nowhere  omitted,  and  it  is  always  safe  to  count  on  the  presence 
of  every  invited  guest  either  in  person  or  by  substitute.  The  cere- 
mony of  itself  is  simple,  but  the  choice  of  those  who  are  to  be 
present  and  the  contribution  of  the  food  are  delicate  matters  to  settle, 
and  often  involve  astute  management.  But  it  is  a  gala-day  to  the 
majority. 

The  wife,  whenever  spoken  of  by  her  husband,  is  designated  by  some 
such  term  as  "  the  thorn  in  my  flesh,"  "  the  unaccountable  one  of  my 
dwelling."  Children,  without  any  slight  intended,  are  styled  "insects" 
or  "  worms."  Yet  the  same  person  in  speaking  of  his  family  would  say, 
with  a  very  contrite  spirit,  "  My  heart  is  borne  down  by  the  fates  which 
have  robbed  me  of  my  treasure  of  the  inner  room,"  or,  "  The  fates  have 
neglected  me  so  far  that  I  have  only  one  little  insect." 


The  silvery  waters  of  the  Min  broaden  and  deepen,  as  they  bear  us  on 
through  the  beautiful  country,  until  at  last  we  are  carried  past  the 
picturesque  temple  of  the  "  Sleeping  Buddha,"  which  is  gained  by  steps 
cut  in  the  rock-wall,  and  lo !  we  are  back  to  the  Kinsha,  the  River 
of  the  Golden  Sand. 


ONE  OF  THK  GATES  OF  NANKIN. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

UPPER   YANGTSE    KIANG. 

SINCE  we  last  saw  it,  the  Great  River  has  increased  in  vohime 
more  than  we  had  expected,  though  this  is  at  a  season  when  it 
flows  at  its  lowest.  The  fact  is  attested  to  by  the  jagged  rocks 
and  the  forbidding  brown  heads  thrust  above  the  sweeping  tide.  One 
singularity  we  notice,  —  its  waters  are  of  a  yellowish  hue,  while  those 
of  the  Min  are  touched  with  silver,  clear  and  transparent.  As  if  loth 
to  mix  its  limpid  offering  with  the  other  it  runs  for  a  long  distance  almost 
distinct  from  it.  When  the  snow-banks  on  the  highlands  of  Tibet  begin 
to  melt  in  May,  and  the  monsoon  pours  its  annual  floods  on  the  great 
watershed,  the  mighty  stream  rises  rapidly,  until  its  foaming  crests  leap 
nearly  a  hundred  feet  higlier  than  we  find  them  to-day.  It  is  a  swollen, 
turbulent  river  from  June  to  the  middle  of  September,  a  little  over  three 
months,  when  it  falls  away  nearly  as  rapidly  as  it  rose. 

From  this  junction  of  the  Min  it  becomes  the  most  important  way  of 
transportation  in  China,  and  thousands  of  coolies  and  others  are  engaged 
in  boating  on  its  flood.  The  Upper  Yangtse  is  a  region  of  sublime 
grandeur  and  infinite  peril  to  life  and  traffic.     As  has  been  stated,  the 


river  is  navigable  for  forty  miles  above  this  city,  or  to  Ping  Shan,  and 
constitutes  what  nia}^  be  termed  the  first  section  of  river  traffic.  The 
Upper  Yangtse  is  a  long  series  of  rapids  and  cataracts,  which  afford  some 
of  the  grandest  scenery  to  be  found  in  Asia,  and  scarcely  equalled  any- 
where else  in  the  world  for  its  peril  to  life  and  loss  to  traffic.  It  is  claimed 
with  apparent  good  reason  that,  of  the  seven  thousand  junks  that  ply 
annually  on  this  portion  of  the  river,  as  many  as  one  thousand  of  these 


BUDDHIST    PRIESTS    OUTSIDE    SMALL    TEMPLE,    POOTOO. 


are  wrecked  in  a  single  year,  while  one-sixth  of  the  merchandise,  chiefly 
cotton,  is  ruined  or  damaged  by  water.  Still,  the  price  of  labour  is  so  low 
and  the  risk  to  life  and  limb  so  slightly  considered  that  goods  sell  little 
higher  in  the  mountains  than  they  do  hundreds  of  miles  lower  down  the 
river.  At  low  water  the  charts  show  one  thousand  rocks  and  rapids 
threatening  river  traffic  for  a  distance  of  five  hundred  miles  below 
Ping  Shan. 

The  second  stage  in  this  great  river-way  is  from  the  junction  of  the  river 


CHINA.  229 

Min  at  this  place,  through  a  series  of  wild  gorges  filled  with  romantic 
interest,  to  Hankow,  where  steam  navigation  meets  the  junks.  This 
stage  of  the  route  is  also  filled  with  great  peril  to  life  and  loss  to  the 
commodities  in  transit. 

The  final  and  easiest  stage  is  by  the  broad,  tidal  river  of  a  thousand 
miles  to  Shanghai,  which  is  regularly  made  bj'  large  steamers.  This 
portion  of  the  Son  of  the  Sea,  often  designated  by  another  poetical  term 
as  "  The  River  of  Fragrant  Tea-fields,"  passes  through  the  richest 
portion  of  China,  made  so  by  its  own  deposits  of  alluvium.  The  amount 
of  traffic  done  on  this  portion  of  the  inland  waterway  is  scarcely  to 
be   computed. 

All  of  the  exports  and  imports  of  the  great  province  of  Szechuan 
are  transported  by  this  river.  The  boats  of  the  upper  sections,  made  of 
pine  on  account  of  its  lightness,  are  small,  and  have  a  high  bridge.  They 
carry  at  the  stern  a  long  oar,  which  becomes  in  the  skilful  hands  of  the 
steersman  a  powerful  rudder  capable  of  turning  the  boat  while  going  its 
length.  This  oar  is  hung  on  a  pivot,  and  is  constructed  on  purpose  to 
make  the  rapids  of  the  river,  where  prompt  action  is  the  sole  dependence 
for  safety.  A  netting  of  bamboo  is  carried,  large  enough  to  cover  the 
entire  craft  at  night,  which  gives  it  the  appearance  of  a  huge  tent.  Under 
this  the  crew  and  passengers  can  sleep  until  morning.  These  resting- 
places,  which  might  otherwise  be  quite  tenantable,  are  rendered  disagree- 
able to  foreigners  by  the  fumes  of  tobacco  smoke,  coming  from  the  vilest 
of  the  weed,  through  the  vilest  of  pipes,  from  the  vilest  of  mouths. 
The  river-ways  are  strewn  wherever  one  goes  with  the  wrecks  of 
these    boats. 

The  boatmen  are  wiry,  closely  knit  men  of  small  stature,  but  very 
strong  and  hardy,  presenting  a  marked  contrast  to  the  Chinese  of  the 
wealthy  class,  whose  corpulence  is  often  so  great  as  to  make  them  ill- 
formed  and  incapable  of  quick  movement.  This  fatty  development  is 
looked  upon,  liowever,  as  good  fortune  sent  from  heaven.  A  full  face 
according  to  their  idea  of  the  fitness  of  things,  signifies  prosperity,  while 
a  thin  countenance  denotes  a  life  of  toil  and  servitude.  The  feet  of  the 
boatmen  are  noticeable  for  the  lowness  of  the  instep,  being  very  flat. 
Their  hands  are  soft  and  seem  to  indicate  little  strength,  but  the  slender 
arms  are  a  bundle  of  sinews. 


We  notice  one  peculiar  trait  among  these  "  sons  of  the  river "  that  is 
comical.  The  Chinese  are  positively  afraid  of  rain,  and  while  one  of  them 
will  paddle  to  his  waist  all  day  without  murmuring,  when  the  water  comes 
above  that  line  he  quits  work.  In  case  of  rain  he  dons  his  so-yi  (grass 
coat),  which  is  his  waterproof,  and  his  bamboo  hat,  that  protects  him  from 
rain  and  sun  alike. 

It  has  been  sagely  remarked  that  a  Chinaman  never  looks  so  dirty  as 
when  he  is  trying  to  get  clean,  which  he  seldom  does.     The  fact  is  he 


STREET    IN    NANKIN. 


does  not  belong  to  a  cleanly  race.  To  bathe  one  means  simply  to  rub  a 
wet  rag,  dirty  at  that,  over  the  face.  Unlike  the  Japanese,  the  Chinese 
seem  to  have  a  dislike  for  water.  The  same  clothing  is  worn  night  and 
day,  and  as  the  cold  waxes  stronger  the  wearer  puts  on  more  covering 
over  that  which  he  has  been  wearing.  As  the  cold  increases,  the  w^adding 
in  the  garments  and  the  number  of  the  garments  increase  accordingly,  so 
it  is  easy  to  note  the  progress  of  the  growing  cold  by  the  growing  bulk  of 
the  person.  With  the  approach  of  warm  weather,  again  it  is  noted,  as  if 
by  a  thermometer,  while  layer  after  layer  of  padded  dress  is  laid  off,  until 


CHINA.  231 

the  individual  comes  down  to  his  summer  size.  At  the  talkie  the  Chinese 
show  equal  uncleanliness.  The  apartments  in  which  they  live  are  never 
cleaned,  the  accumulations  being  allowed  to  increase,  and  such  of  the 
dirt,  rubbish,  and  refuse  matter  as  collects  about  the  room,  which  does  not 
become  trampled  into  the  earth,  is  brushed  under  the  bed  or  into  a  corner 
to  become  a  breeding  place  for  all  kinds  of  vermin. 

Sui  Fu  is  a  bustling  city  of  150,000  inhabitants,  and  is  very  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  elevated  position,  so  as  to  command  a  fine  view  of  the 
surrounding  country.  As  may  be  imagined,  it  is  the  centre  of  considerable 
commercial  activity.  We  hear  accounts  of  the  Lolos,  a  tribe  of  the 
aborigines  living  in  the  mountainous  regions  to  the  west.  These  people 
have  been  a  thorn  in  the  flesh  of  the  Chinese  for  over  two  thousand  years, 
and  have  been  a  serious  drawback  to  land  trade.  Besides  being  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  the  Great  River,  Sui  Fu  is  the  one  objective  point 
of  trade  between  Northern  Yunnan  and  Szechuan.  Two  lines  of  railroad 
are  already  planned  to  connect  Yunnan  City  with  Chengtu-fu,  but  neither 
of  these  will  come  near  Sui  Fu,  one  going  as  far  east  as  Chung-king,  and 
the  other  making  a  more  direct  course  through  the  land  of  the  Lolos 
above  this  city  and  passing  at  the  foot  of  Omei  Shan.  What  effect  this 
will  have  upon  the  future  prosperity  of  Sui  Fu  remains  to  be  seen.  Tlie 
chances  are  that  it  will  not  gain  by  it. 

Since  coming  to  Szechuan  we  have  heard  considerable  regarding  the 
large  poppy  fields,  for  this  province  is  noted  for  raising  this  questional^le 
plant,  and  upon  reaching  the  city  Lu  Chau,  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
River  To  with  the  Kin-sha,  we  are  forcibly  reminded  of  this  product. 
This  place  is  a  little  smaller  than  Sui  Fu,  and  it  is  estimated  that  four 
out  of  every  five  of  the  male  population  smoke  opium.  Opium  pipes  are 
offered  as  freely  to  customers  in  the  shops  as  cups  of  tea  are  gi\-en  in 
Japan.  Situated  in  the  heart  of  the  great  Red  Basin,  this  is  a  i)retty 
place  ;  but  more  than  at  Sui  Fu  and  above  do  we  hear  nuitterings  against 
the  "  foreign  devils."  We  are  looked  upon  as  intruders,  and  a  crowd 
follows  us  wherever  we  2:0.  Go  Mungj  is  candid  enouo;h  to  acknowledire 
that  this  feeling  is  being  fomented  by  one  of  the  powerful  secret  societies 
that  are  such  a  bane  to  China. 

At  the  close  of  the  day,  while  the  l)oatmen  seek  the  solace  to  be  found 
in  their  ever-handy  pipes,  Go  Mung  tells  us  a  strange  story  regarding  the 


origin  of  the  poppy,  from  which  comes  the  opium  that  has  been  such 
a  curse  to  his  race.  There  is  a  touch  of  Indian  mysticism  about 
the  legendary  account,  which  increases,  rather  than  diminishes,  its 
interest. 

"  A  certain  wise  and  good  man  once  dwelt  by  a  noble  river  in  the 
Southland.  He  dwelt  alone  in  his  bamboo  hut  except  for  the  companion- 
ship of  a  mouse.     Now  a  simple  mouse  must  have  been  far  from  such  a 


VIEW    OX    THE    CITY    WALLS,    NANKIN. 


companion  as  most  men  would  have  sought  to  enliven  their  loneliness. 
But  this  great  scholar  understood  so  well  the  ways  of  the  mouse  that  he 
asked  for  no  higher  friend.  The  mouse  was  very  happy,  not  a  cloud 
darkening  its  life,  until  the  shadow  of  a  cat,  its  natural  enemy,  fell  across 
its  path.  Thrice  three  times  did  this  mouse  see  the  cat,  and  she  barely 
escaped  by  fleeing  to  her  master. 

"  Seeing  her  great  distress,  he  granted  her  (the  mouse)  the  power  of 
speech,  that  she  might  explain  it  to  him.  This  being  done,  the  mouse 
told  her  story,  bewailing  her  fate  that  she  was  so  small  as  not  to  be  able 


CHINA.  233 

to  stand  her  own  with  such  a  fierce  animal  as  the  cat.  Thereupon  the 
wise  man  changed  her  into  the  form  and  nature  of  a  cat. 

"  As  a  -cat  the  simple  creature  found  even  greater  enjoyment  in  the 
company  of  her  kind  master,  and  for  hours  at  a  time  slie  used  to  lie 
in  his  lap,  or  upon  a  soft  mat  at  his  feet.  If  she  remembered  that 
she  had  once  been  a  little  mouse,  however,  she  did  not  show  it  by  any 
act  of  mercy  in  refraining  from  hunting  her  natural  prey.  But  this 
life  soon  found  its  drawbacks,  for  it  was  not  long  before  the  cat  was 
bothered  by  a  dog,  and  finally  she  again  fled  to  her  master.  Upon 
being  allowed  the  power  of  speech  again,  she  asked  to  become  a  dog. 
This  wish  was  granted. 

"  But  the  life  of  a  dog  met  with  its  disappointments.  Every^vhere  she 
went  she  was  cuifed  and  kicked  about,  and  finally  so  worried  by  an  ape 
that  for  the  third  time  she  appealed  to  her  master,  who,  quickly  under- 
standing her  desire,  caused  her  to  be  changed  to  an  ape.  But  her  career 
as  an  ape  was  even  more  brief.  She  no  longer  enjoyed  the  companion- 
ship of  her  former  master,  though  that- troubled  her  far  less  in  her  new 
state  than  the  frequent  attacks  of  a  wild  boar,  that  would  trample  lier 
under  foot  and  devour  her  at  one  mouthful.  Coming  into  his  presence 
one  day  with  a  decidedly  crumpled  appearance,  the  wise  man  recognised 
her  as  kindly  as  when  she  had  been  his  constant  companion.  At  her 
request  she  was  changed,  not  into  a  fierce  brute  like  the  boar,  but 
into  that  wisest  and  mightiest  of  the  animal  kingdom,  the  elephant. 
Surely  she  had  chosen  most  wisely  now,  for  no  creature  was  stroug 
enough  to  worry  her,  and  her  late  enemies  she  could  trample  under 
her  feet. 

"  The  life  of  an  elephant  soon  proved  far  from  being  the  ideal  picture 
she  had  drawn.  It  was  a  lonely  life,  as  every  other  creature  fled  at  the 
sound  of  her  heavy  tread.  If  mighty  in  her  ponderous  form,  the  most 
tiny  insect  found  opportunity  to  worry  her,  as  even  the  dog  had  not 
worried  the  cat.  She  constantly  found  something  to  vex  her.  It  was 
even  a  burden  to  move  about,  and,  in  despair  at  having  failed  so  many 
times,  she  sought  for  yet  another  trial.  Her  master  listened  to  her  kindly, 
but  assured  her  that  she  must  choose  carefully  this  time,  as  another  trans- 
formation would  exhaust  his  power.  While  she  was  pondering  what 
shape  to  enter  next,  a  beautiful  maiden,  singing  a  sweet  love-song,  went 


gaily  past.  In  a  moiiient  lier  choice  was  made,  and  she  wondered  she 
had  not  chosen  the  form  of  a  young  and  beautiful  woman  before.  In  her 
must  lie  the  supreme  happiness  she  had  not  found.  The  wise  man 
smiled,  but  obeyed  her  request,  when  lo !  a  maiden  of  wondrous  beauty 
and  archness  stood  where  before  had  cringed  a  mouse,  a  cat,  an  ape,  a  wild 
boar,  or  had  stood  with  massive  figure  an  elephant. 

"  She  now  administered  to  her  master's  wants,  finding   a    peace  and 


THE    COAL    HILL,    PEKIN. 

happiness  unknown  in  her  other  lives.  But  one  day  a  young  and  hand- 
some prince  came  her  way,  and  with  his  coming  departed  her  quiet 
and  peace  of  mind.  The  maiden  was  in  love,  but  with  that  exalted 
sensation  came  an  unrest  she  had  hitherto  never  known.  The  prince, 
however,  could  not  be  otherwise  than  pleased  with  her,  and  when  she 
told  him  that  she  was  not  this  simple  old  man's  daughter,  but  a  princess 
who  had  been  abandoned  by  her  ambitious  sister  that  the  latter  might 
occupy  the  place  rightfully  hers,  the  young  man  resolved  to  win  her  for 
his  bride.     As  her  master,  notwithstanding  the  slight  she  had  put  upon 


CHINA.  235 

him,  abetted  her  in  this  deception,  she  soon  became  a  princess  in  reality, 
with  a  fair  prospect  that  soon  she  would  be  a  queen. 

"  Now  she  had  ample  time  to  discover  that  under  the  glistening  foil 
there  is  a  dark  side.  The  king  died,  and  her  husband  succeeded  to  the 
throne.  But  as  a  king  he  grew  arrogant,  and  sought  the  company  of  other 
women.  She  was  expected  to  be  continually  on  dress  parade,  and  so  much 
did  the  frivolities  wear  Tipon  her  that  she  tired  of  the  new  life.  The 
neglect  of  the  king  grew  harder  and  harder  to  bear,  until  finally  in  despair 
she  flung  herself  into  a  well  and  was  drowned. 

"  No  sooner  had  the  queen  ended  her  life  than  the  king  repented  of  his 
past  sins,  and  shed  genuine  tears  over  the  untimely  fate  of  her  whom  he 
had  driven  to  death.  In  his  sorrow  he  sought  the  magician,  whose 
foster-child  his  wife  had  been.  Perhaps  the  thought  of  ^v"rong  done  him 
by  the  princess,  and  the  deception  she  had  imposed  upon  the  prince,  caused 
him  to  say  to  the  king  that  he  knew  not  for  whom  he  was  weeping.  The 
queen,  however  great  and  beautiful  she  had  appeared  to  him,  had  once 
been  only  a  mouse.  Surely  it  was  not  becoming  for  a  king  to  shed  tears 
over  the  death  of  a  foolish  mouse.  But  still,  if  he  wished  to  retain  some 
memento  of  the  dead  queen,  let  him  go  home  and  have  the  well,  whicli  no 
one  would  use  now,  filled  with  earth,  so  that  it  would  be  her  sepulchre. 
From  her  bones,  in  good  time,  w^ould  spring  a  wonderful  plant,  which 
would  bring  new  power  into  the  world.  People  would  come  from  far  and 
near  to  see  it,  and  whoever  should  smoke  its  seeds  would  receive  all  the 
mischievousness  of  the  mouse,  the  cunning  of  a  cat,  the  savageness  of  a  dog, 
filthiness  of  an  ape,  the  grovelling  hatred  of  a  boar,  the  might  of  an 
elephant,  and  the  beauty,  the  languor,  the  unsatisfied  longings  of  a 
queen. 

"The  king  did  as  he  was  told,  and  from  the  grave  of  the  beautiful 
but  unhappy  queen  sprang  the  white  poppy,  which  soon  enslaved  the 
imperial  ruler,  and  has  enslaved  its  millions  of  men,  throwing  over  them 
the  mystical  spell  of  all  the  attributes,  just  as  it  was  foretold  by  the  great 
magician." 

The  practice  of  smoking  tobacco  is  universal  in  China,  but  the  two 
classes  of  people  use  different  styled  pipes,  which  are  supposed  to  be  in 
keeping  with  their  respective  stations  in  life.  The  better  class  smoke  an 
elaborate  affair  called  the  "  water  pipe."     It  has  a  bent  stem,  elegantly 


carved,  and  it  is  highly  ornamented.  The  bowl  is  extremely  small,  and 
will  not  allow  the  smoker  to  take  more  than  two  or  three  whiffs  of  the 
finely  scented  tobacco  before  he  hands  it  back  to  his  servant  to  refill. 
This  the  latter  does  by  first  removing  the  tiny  bowl,  and,  after  blowing 
out  the  ashes  replenishing  the  supply  of  tobacco,  which  has  been  ground 
to  a  fine  powder.  Among  the  poorer  people  a  cheaper  pipe,  with  a  reed 
stem  varying  in  length  from  twelve  inches  to  four  feet,  is  used.  The 
bowls  of  these  are  small,  and  are  made  of  a  white  metal.  The  tobacco 
smoked  is  of  inferior  quality.  These  pipes  are  always  kept  near  the 
smoker,  even  when  he  is  not  engaged  in  his  almost  constant  practice  of 
smoking.  Those  of  the  greatest  length  are  sometimes  used  as  walking- 
sticks. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

PICTURESQUE    CHINA. 

THE  River  To,  or  Fu-sung  Kiang,  which  delivers  its  tribute  to 
the  Yangtse  at  Lu-chau,  winds  down  through  the  richest  part 
of  the  Red  Basin,  and  is  navigable  for  five  hundred  miles. 

The  next  important  tributary  to  the  Great  River  from  the  north  is  the 
Fu-ling,  which  brings  the  combined  offerings  of  three  streams  of  consider- 
able size,  and  is  a  river  of  great  commercial  importance.  The  eastern 
branch  of  this  river,  the  Ku,  runs  on  the  border  of  one  of  the  richest 
coal  regions  in  the  world.  Central  Szechuan  appears  to  be  laid  on  a  coal 
bed  of  inexhaustible  store.  Some  suggestion  of  coal  is  to  be  seen  every- 
where one  goes ;  in  the  limestone  cliffs  of  the  mountains,  in  the  rank 
vegetation  of  the  valleys,  in  the  ferns  that  grow  redundant  by  the  wayside, 
in  the  lumps  seen  along  the  banks  of  the  streams,  where  the  children  pick 
up  quantities  sufficient  to  cook  by,  and  in  the  points  and  projections  of  the 
rocky  sides  of  the  hills  overhanging  the  hamlets  of  the  people,  wlio  liave 
only  to  chip  off  a  piece  that  they  ma}^  have  fuel  enough  to  last  them 
through  the  day.  But  it  is  mined  only  in  the  most  primative  ways  b}^ 
small  collieries  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  Mrs.  Bishop,  who  travelled 
through  the  region  above  Liang-shan,  says :  "  Scrambling  up  a  black 
orifice  in  the  limestone  I  came  upon  a  '  gallery,'  four  feet  high,  down 
which  Lilliputian  wagons,  holding  about  one  hundred  weight  each, 
descend  from  ^  workings '  along  a  narrow  tramway  only  twelve  inches 
wide.  From  some  holes  boys  crept  out  with  small  creels,  holding  not 
more  than  twenty-five  pounds,  roped  on  their  backs,  and  little  room  to 
spare  above  them."  Tlie  Chinese  do  not  work  the  deposits  downward, 
but  along  the  surface,  for  fear  they  will  scratch  the  dragon's  back,  and 
thus  cause  that  dreaded  creature,  which  is  supposed  to  support  the  earth, 
to  move  and  create  great  havoc  generally. 

Vivid  accounts  reach  us  of  the  Pass  of  Fuh-ri-gan,  which,  if  tlie  half 
told  is  true,  must  rival  the   finest  of  Japanese  scenery.     The  pathway 


winding  up  the  wonderland  leads  under  towering  peaks,  picturesque 
slopes,  and  mountains  clothed  witli  forests  to  their  summits,  while 
through  deep  ravines  tumble  laughing  streams,  fringed  with  ferns  of 
great  beauty  and  lycopodiums  "  made  to  tempt  the  gods."  The  wood- 
lands are  of  equal 
glory,  with  many 
species  of  trees 
showing  a  great 
variety  of  attract- 
ive foliage.  The 
most  conspicuous 
of  all  is  the  "tree 
of  blossoms," 
abounding  with  its 
gems  of  pink  flow- 
ers, but  barren  of 
leaves.  Foremost 
among  the  woods 
are  the  oak,  wal- 
nut, chestnut,  sis 
varieties  of  the 
coniferse,  bamboos, 
and  the  xylosma,  a 
native  tree  of  great 
beauty  of  foliage. 
Besides  these  larger 
o;rowths  there  is  ^ 
superabundance  cf 
shrubs  and  trailerj- 
The  glory  of  the 
other  trees  is 
eclipsed  by  the  delicate  foliage  and  variegated  hues  of  the  different 
bamboos,  most  prominent  among  which  is  the  plumed  bamboo.  There 
are  three  varieties  of  tufted  bamboo :  a  tree  with  dark  green 
plumage,  another  with  a  light  green,  and  the  third  more  beautiful 
than  either,   having   plumes  on  golden  stems  that   reflect   the   gold   of 


MOHAMMEDAN    MINARET,    CANTON. 


CHINA. 


239 


sunrise.  Mingling  their  foliage,  these  three  present  the  handsomest  i 
effect  imaginable,  while  all  rise  to  a  dignified  height  among  the. 
"population  of  the  forests."  Nor  are  these  the  sum  and  substance, 
of  bambooan  beauty,  for  there  is  that  mightier  cousin  to  these,  the 
feathery  bamboo,  rising  to  a  height  of  nearly  seventy-five  feet,  re- 
splendent  with    its  arrow-like  foliage    whose   stems    point   directly    sky- 


CENTRAL    HALL    OF    PRIVATE    RESIDENCE. 

ward  while  enveloped  in  a  mass  of  delicate  tracery  as  light  and  soft  as 
down. 

In  the  midst  of  this  sublime  ascent  the  stone  stairw^ay  is  reached,  where 
the  passage  over  the  summit  is  made  easier  by  five  thousand  wide  steps, 
bordered  by  curbing  laid  with  marvellous  workmanship^  and  all  in  good 
repair.  Where  the  intermingling  green  and  golden  plumes  of  the  bam- 
boos droop  gracefully  over  the  head  of  the  traveller,  until  tliey  meet 
one  another  from  each  side,  he  comes  to  the  fourteen  hundred  broad, 
flat  steps  called  "the  altar  stairs  leading  through  darkness  up  to  God." 


But  the  darkness  is  a  golden  twilight,  and  he  who  easily  climbs  the 
way  feels  that  he  is  entering  into  Paradise.  Passing  up  this  noble 
pathway,  where  man  and  nature  seem  to  have  vied  with  each  to 
outdo  themselves,  the  song  of  birds  is  missed. 

In  this  region  of  eastern  Szechuan  are  many  temples  and  pai  fangs. 
Star-pua  is  noted  as  a  village  of  temples,  though  it  lacks  the  rugged 
setting  of  Japan's  famous  Nikko.  Below  this  town  is  Liang-shan,  which 
has  a  fine  specimen  of  a  Confucian  temple,  that  presents  a  marked  con- 
trast to  the  grotesque  structures  reared  to  Buddha  and  Tao.     This  town 


V 

■  f-  .-.'•               ■  -i; 

m 

- 

1 

1 

1 

1 

p^pH|HrT|| 

■ 

^Hp 

^          -'^^-^'^  -"^^^^^^H^H        9^ 

^H 

H^ 

-  -*-»viferfHlS5|H^^^'*Mi'^^'l|lK                       ^^H 

Jj 

1 

I 

1 

1 

J^ 

■ 

VIEW    IN    NAN K IX. 


is  situated  on  the  western  slope  of  one  of  the  many  hillsides  of  this 
part  of  the  province,  and  the  temple  stands  under  the  outspreading  arms 
of  tall  pines,  cypresses,  and  bamboos,  as  if  they  were  about  to  pronounce 
their  benediction  upon  the  hallowed  spot.  It  is  a  noble  background  for 
the  red  sandstone  structure,  encircled  by  wide  stone  terraces.  The  front 
overlooks  a  big  rice-field,  which,  when  it  is  inundated,  becomes  a  shallow 
lake,  each  eminence  of  land  forming  an  island.  These  in  many  cases  are 
walled,  and  hold  some  big  farm  sheltered  by  groves  of  bamboo  or  cypress. 
On  some  are  temples  overtopped  by  ancient  trees,  and  surrounded  by  the 
dwellings  of  the  priests. 


CHINA. 


241 


It  is  on  one  of  the  heights  which  are  at  times  surrounded  by  water 
that  the  temple  mentioned  stands  under  its  canopy  of  green  glazed  tiles, 
and  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  of  the  imperial  red  of  Cliina.  It  is  a 
plain,  square,  open  structure,  encircled  with  a  stone  terrace.  Within 
everything  is  in  keeping  with  the  conspicuous  j^lainness  of  the  exterior. 
Fine  palms  rising  from  vases  set  in  the  centre  lend  dignity  and  beauty 
to  the   place.     Beyond   these  is   a   pai   fang,   and    the   platforui   on  the 


A    VI KW    NEAR    CANTON. 


northern  side  has  an  altar  of  stone,  while  a  tablet  bears  an  appropri- 
ate inscription.  Beyond  this  is  another  wall  with  other  inscriptions 
separated  by  pilasters. 

Chung-king-fu  is  a  little  over  two  hundred  miles  below  Sui  Fu,  and 
is  of  greater  commercial  importance  than  any  of  the  cities  passed.  It 
is  believed  to  contain  a  population  of  nearly  five  hundred  thousand 
people.  Its  situation,  as  we  come  down  the  river,  reminds  us  of  Quebec, 
Avith  the  nobility  and  solemnity  of  a  greater  age  hanging  over  its  massive 


gray  walls,  holding  within  tlieir  ancient  arms  a  grand  array  of  towers  and 
temples  of  Oriental  suggestiveness.  The  city  gate  is  reached  by  a  flight 
of  broad  stone  steps,  leading  from  the  river  up.  Its  background  is  a 
wooded  steep  over  fifteen  feet  high.  Upon  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
city,  something  of  the  glory  and  Canadian  majesty  which  we  had  pictured 
to  our  mind's  eye  from  a  distance  vanishes  at  the  sight  of  the  crowded, 
huddled  appearance  of  the  town.  This,  however,  gradually  fits  into  our 
mind  as  an  appropriate  part  of  a  Chinese  urban  view,  and  we  grow  to 
like  the  place  better.  No  doubt  Chung-king-fu  owes  a  part  of  its  oft- 
repeated  notice  to  the  fact  that  its  founders  selected  a  site  where  it  would 
be  impossible  for  it  to  expand.  It  cannot  do  this  until  rock  walls  have 
been  made  to  yield,  and  space  in  mid-air  becomes  the  foundation  of  city 
homes.  Chung-king-fu  may  yet  pile  up  a  larger  population,  but  it  must 
be  done  at  the  serious  inconvenience  of  the  whole.  The  view  outside 
quite  makes  up  for  the  want  of  breathing-room  within.  There  is  plenty 
of  space  out  over  the  river,  which  at  high  water  is  nearly  three-fourths 
of  a  mile  wide,  though  it  is  iiot  one-half  of  that  width  now.  There  is 
plenty  of  room  on  the  magnificent  hills  beyond  the  muddy  stream. 
As  for  that,  there  is  always  plenty  of  room  just  outside  of  China's 
crowded  metropolises. 

The  city  was  opened  as  a  treaty  port  in  1891,  and  is  the  farthest  inland 
place  of  this  kind  in  China.  It  is  noted  for  its  numerous  shops,  hongs, 
guild-halls  and  warehouses.  The  custom-house  stands  on  a  small  rock 
plateau,  with  a  rocky  wall  rising  within  a  yard  of  its  rear  side.  Chung- 
king-fu  is  the  trading  point  for  a  population  of  over  sixty  million 
people.  It  is  the  oply  wholesale  market  for  foreign  goods  in  Sze- 
chuan,  and  it  is  connected  by  waterways  with  every  town  of  impor- 
tance in  the  province.  All  exports  bound  for  the  seaboard,  and  all 
imports  coming  in,  have  to  pass  at  its  foot. 

At  the  base  of  the  bluff  a  part  of  the  city's  population  finds  escape 
from  the  crowded  quarters  during  the  season  of  low  water  in  a  little 
miniature  town  built  of  mats  and  bamboos.  As  soon  as  the  summer 
floods  begin  to  raise  the  water  in  the  river  these  dwellings  have  to  be 
removed,  and  are  borne  to  the  heights  on  the  backs  of  the  men,  while 
the  yellow  tide  sweeps  over  the  place  they  formerly  occupied. 

Below  Chung-king-fu  are  two  other  cities,  connected  with  it  by  the  ties 


A     I  IIINKSK     I.AItdlKKU. 


CHINA 


243 


of  trade  organisations,  Limin-fu  and  Kiang-peh,  the  trio  forming  a  com- 
plete example  of  Chinese  life  and  business  where  foreign  influence  has 
not  reached. 

The  current  grows  more  rapid  as  we  turn  our  backs  upon  these  cities, 
and  it  does  not  need  the  announcement  of  Go  Mung  that  we  are  enter- 
ing the  long  and  tortuous  gorges  which  form  a  characteristic  feature 
of  this  section  of  the  Yangtse  Kiang.  The  crew  have  little  to  do  save 
to  keep  the  boat  in  the  middle  of  the  current,  and  let  it  sweep  along 


NKW    DRAWKUIDGE,    NANKIN'. 


at  a  rapid  rate.  They  never  are  asleep  at  their  posts,  for  they  know 
too  well  the  watchfulness  needed  and  the  energy  required  to  make  tlie 
Upper  Yangtse.  So,  while  the  lusty  fellows  keep  up  a  constant  chanting 
in  a  loud  tone  in  order  "  to  make  their  steering  easier,"  we  are  carried 
down  past  hills  that  have  not  lost  their  snminer  green  even  at  this  season, 
past  wide-spreading  forests,  past  open  country  dotted  with  village  roofs, 
and  set  with  gardens  surrounded  by  low  hedges  of  evergreen,  past  dense 
green  woods  teeming  with  human  life,  by  towns  built  on  promontories 
that  look  inaccessible,  by  lofty  towers  and  temples,  by  fantastic  pai 
fangs  and  pagodas,  under  frowning  walls  of  rock  that  shut  out  the  sun- 


light  and  give  us  at  noonday  the  gloom  of  midnight ;  borne  down  glassy 
slopes  of  water,  where  the  roughness  of  the  river-bed  has  been  worn 
smooth  by  ages  of  action,  down  rushing  rapids  which  have  been  the 
work  of  swirling  waters,  around  sharp  angles  where  the  current  is 
churned  into  foam,  on  the  very  rim  of  whirlpools  whose  maelstrom  of 
fury  seems  to  be  drawing  us  into  its  fatal  arms.  Everywhere  along 
our  course  are  to  be  seen  the  wrecks  and  relics  of  craft  that  have  met 


A    PAGODA    i.N     l;i :i.\.>. 


the  fate  toward  which  we  appear  to  be  hastening  with  a  rapidity  that 
at  times  takes  away  our  breath. 

Days  of  this  passage  continue,  enlivened  now  and  then  with  short  stops 
on  the  banks,  cheered  at  all  times  by  the  good-natured  merriment  of  the 
crew,  and  the  unfailing  fount  of  Go  Mung's  tales.  One  of  these  tarries  is 
made  at  Fuchau,  "  the  rock  city,"  which  merits  this  title  by  being 
built  on  shelves  of  rock,  one  above  another.  It  has  one  of  the  finest 
pagodas  to  be  seen  in  Szechuan,  and  some  noble  old  temples,  noted  for 


CHINA.  245 

their  size  and  elevated  positions.  "We  enter  the  city  through  a  gateway 
of  rock,  and  move  along  a  narrow,  crowded  street,  meeting  everywhere 
with  dirt  and  decay.  Fuchau  must  be  a  very  ancient  city,  a  city  of 
literature  and  learning,  judging  from  its  mementoes  of  the  past.  It  stands 
near  the  junction  of  a  stream  from  the  south,  that  is  navigable  for  about 
two  hundred  miles. 

We  are  moving  along  the  southeastern  border  of  the  province  of  Sze- 
chuan,  and  by  this  time  are  able  to  realise  something  of  the  truth  of  the 
statement  that  it  is  the  "  Granary  of  the  World,"  and  of  the  saying  that 
has  become  a  proverb  :  "  Szechuan  grows  more  grain  in  one  year  than  it 
can  consume  in  ten."  But  if  this  be  true,  the  product  is  poorly  distributed. 
The  province  is  also  noted,  though  less  happily,  for  the  amount  of  poppy  that 
it  grows.  In  the  season,  evidence  of  this  is  to  be  found  in  the  long  fringes 
of  impudent  crests  of  the  plants  flaunting  on  the  very  brink  of  the  high 
river-walls,  the  borders  of  vast  areas  fairly  ablaze  with  the  seductive 
flowers  which  furnish  China  with  two-thirds  of  her  opium. 

At  the  gorge  of  Kweichau  we  get  a  strong  taste  of  what  we  are 
promised  lower  down  the  river.  Wu-shan  is  a  name  for  a  city  standing 
on  the  borders  of  the  provinces,  Szechuan  and  Hopeh,  and  for  a  gorge 
of  great  sublimity.  The  city  is  on  the  left  bank,  a  walled  town  sur- 
rounded by  hills  of  moderate  elevation  and  plains  of  great  fertilit^^ 

Where  the  river  rushes  between  confused  masses  of  rock  rising  to  a 
great  height,  the  loftiest  piercing  the  winter  sky  like  so  many  pointed 
diamonds,  is  Wu-shan  Gorge.  Below  the  dizzy  rock-spires  the  cliffs  and 
precipices  glisten  under  the  horizontal  beams  of  the  westering  sun,  while 
the  lower  altitudes  are  veiled  in  a  dusky  brown,  which  deepens  into  the 
darkness  of  night  where  the  shadows  fall  on  the  angry  waters.  It  is  a 
grand  scene,  the  short-lived  twilight  of  a  winter  day  giving  an  added 
wildness  to  the  picturesque  landscape. 

It  is  so  late  in  the  day  that  the  crew,  even  to  Go  Mung,  are  anxious  to 
stop  at  the  town  until  morning,  declaring  tliat  it  will  be  disastrous  to  spend 
the  night  in  the  gorge,  while  it  will  be  impossible  to  pass  the  length  of 
the  defile  in  the  darkness  of  night.  In  order  to  deter  us  from  keeping  on, 
thrilling  stories  of  the  pirates  infesting  the  gorge  are  told  in  such  startling 
tones  as  to  make  us  question  their  veracity.  Then,  as  if  to  cap  the  climax, 
more  uncanny  tales  are  repeated  in  whispers  of  the  ghosts  of  the  gorge, 


that  delight  to  be  aoroad  on  such  nights  as  this,  when  foolish  foreigners 
invade  their  sacred  precincts. 

But  these  stories  have  a  different  effect  on  us  than  was  intended.  River 
pirates  that  we  have  been  told  so  much  of  have  failed,  so  far,  to  keep  their 
appointments.  As  to  these  ghosts,  why,  we  are  especially  desirous  of 
scraping  their  acquaintance,  the  more  so  as  they  are  said  to  be  real  live 
ghosts  !  Nothing  that  can  be  said  now  will  deter  us  from  spending  the 
night  in  the  gorge.     So,  w^iile  w^e  take  a  lingering  view  of  the  sunset, 


VIEW    OF    NANKIN    FROM    DRUM    TOWER. 


the  purple  hills,  the  brown  plains,  and   the   silvered  mountains,  we  find 
ourselves  borne  with  the  swift  current  into  the  haunted  gorge. 

Go  Mung  joins  us  on  the  deck,  where  we  watch,  as  best  we  can,  the 
rugged  walls  overhanging  us,  as  we  rush  along.  When  it  becomes  too 
dark  to  go  farther  the  boat  is  moored  near  the  right  bank.  As  there  is  no 
more  to  be  seen,  we  soon  retire  to  our  corner  under  the  awaiing,  accom- 
panied by  Go  Mung,  who  shows  that  he  feels  a  heavy  oppression  over 
our  situation.  For  once  his  tongue  is  silent,  and  he  sits  cringing  beside 
us.     The  crew  is  noisy  enough,  as  if  noise  would  ensure  its  safety. 


CHINA. 


247 


The  babel  of  sounds  ceases  after  awhile,  and  we  are  joined  by  the 
captain,  who  whispers  in  a  liusky  voice  that  the  pirates  have  discovered 
us,  and  are  about  to  begin  their  attack  ! 

The  crew  has  not  dared  to  hang  out  any  lights,  and  it  is  too  dark  to 
distinguish  another  boat  on  the  river.  At  first  we  are  inclined  to  doubt 
the  captain's  word,  when  the  murmur  of  low  voices  reaches  our  ears. 
Our  boatmen  are   silent,    and,  quickly  concluding  that  the  speakers  are 


PARADE     OK     K>KKI(;.V    AND    XATIVK     I'oI.K   K,     H(>.N(; 


the  "  pirates  "  threatening  us,  we  hail  the  unknown  and  unseen  enemy. 
The  whispering  instantly  stops,  but  beyond  the  silence  we  get  no  reply. 
Repeating  this  call  with  no  better  result,  we  remain  perfectly  still,  until 
the  low  tone  of  some  one  speaking  in  the  darkness  is  heard.  Getting  no 
answer  to  our  third  challenge,  we  discharge  our  firearms  into  the  air. 
The  sharp  reports  of  the  weapons  ring  up  and  down  the  narrow  defile 
with  vivid  intonations,  and  by  the  flash  of  the  shots  we  catcli  a  glimpse 
of  a  boat-load  of  hideous  faces.     The  darkness  succeeding  is  unbroken, 


and,  after  waiting  an  liour  for  some  indication  of  our  enemies,  we  return 
to  our  berths. 

Go  Mung  stations  himself  to  look  for  our  second  dread,  the  "  live  " 
ghosts,  promising  to  tell  us  the  moment  one  appears.  Our  suspense  is 
longex  this  time,  for  it  must  be  past  midnight  before  Go  Mung  rushes 
into  our  presence,  looking  as  white  as  it  is  possible  for  a  Chinaman  to  be, 
and  declaring  in  an  almost  inaudible  tone  that  the  ghosts  have  come  at 
last.  No  sooner  have  we  reached  the  deck  than  we  discover  several  bright 
spots  against  the  rock-wall  far  above  our  heads.  At  first  these  seem  to  be 
stationary,  but  presently  they  begin  to  move  to  and  fro,  up  and  down,  in  a 
most  bewildering  way.  The  Talebearer,  who  is  brave  beyond  the  average 
man  of  his  race,  trembles  like  a  leaf,  as  he  stands  beside  us  without 
speaking,  until  at  last  he  exclaims: 

"  Look,  master !  the  ghosts." 

It  does  not  need  Go  Mung's  words  to  call  our  attention  to  the  fact  that 
several  human  faces  have  appeared  in  the  small  orbit  of  light  fixed  in  the 
Cimmerian  space  overhead.  If  these  countenances  belong  to  ghostly 
figures,  they  are  indeed  "  live  ghosts,"  for  the  faces  belong  to  the  living 
and  not  to  the  dead.  The  bones  are  scantily  covered,  but  there  are  flesh 
and  blood  over  than.  But  every  line  is  drawn  in  agony,  and  never  have 
we  seen  depicted  so  much  of  anguish  in  the  countenance  of  man  or  woman. 
They  disappear  in  a  moment,  and  though  we  watch  and  wait  a  long  time, 
they  are  not  seen  again. 

We  question  Go  Mung  until  he  finally  confesses  that  in  the  high  walls 
above  us  grooves  and  cells  have  been  cut,  into  which  culprits  guilty  of 
some  crime  have  from  time  to  time  been  dropped  from  the  top  by  officials 
of  the  nearest  town.  There  they  are  suffered  to  remain  until  death  has 
set  them  free.  Their  only  escape  is  to  seek  another  form  of  death  by 
leaping  into  the  river  something  like  a  thousand  feet  below.  If  there  is 
given  to  spirits  the  power  to  return  to  earth,  it  is  little  to  be  wondered  at 
that  Wu-shan  Gorge  is  haunted. 

In  the  course  of  our  talk  with  Go  Mung,  we  find  that  these  hapless 
occupants  of  prison-cells,  whose  horrors  cannot  be  described,  are  not  the 
only  inhabitants  of  Wu-shan  Gorge.  In  the  caverns  of  the  stupendous 
walls  —  and  these  limestone  cliffs  of  China  are  perforated  with  grooves, 
cells,  and  caves  —  several  followers  of  Laou-tasoo,  a  sect  of  philosophers 


CHINA.  249 

of  the  old  school,  live  like  hermits.  As  we  move  down  the  river  in  the 
morning,  a  mound  of  earth  is  pointed  out  to  us  by  Go  Mung,  at  one  of 
the  caves,  where  he  solemnly  avows  one  of  these  strange  anchorites  sleeps 
who  died  at  the  ripe  age  of  two  hundred  years.  The  lonely  cairn  is 
heaped  with  stones  and  sods  contributed  by  visitors,  our  crew  willingly 
landing  here  to  offer  their  tribute. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

THE    GRAND    CANON    OF    THE    GREAT    RIVER. 

AT  this  stage  in  our  journey  we  are  reminded  that  it  is  New  Year's 
in  China,  though  it  is  February  17th.  While  the  festival  of  this 
season  is  looked  upon  with  great  favour  in  Japan,  and  much  is  done 
to  make  it  a  success,  it  is  not  considered  of  so  much  vital  importance  as  in 
China.  On  this  occasion  the  family,  if  it  is  possible,  is  reunited,  and  this 
is  more  easily  accomplished  than  in  the  former  country,  where  its  mem- 
bers become  scattered  to  the  far  corners  of  the  earth.  If  it  so  happens 
that  some  one  cannot  return  on  this  year,  he  will  make  it  certain  to 
come  next,  if  his  life  is  spared.  In  the  majority  of  cases  the  family, 
and  a  good-sized  family,  too,  is  already  at  home. 

The  day  is  ushered  in  with  all  the  noise  and  confusion  of  our  Fourth  of 
July,  intensified  tenfold  with  the  banging  of  firecrackers  and  explosions 
of  gunpowder  in  different  quantities.  But  of  more  importance  than  this 
noisy  demonstration  is  the  removal  of  the  old  kitchen  god  and  the  sub- 
stitution of  the  new  one,  whose  reign  will  extend  until  the  twenty-third 
of  the  twelfth  moon,  or  the  installation  of  his  successor  at  the  close  of 
the  year.  This  is  an  occasion  when  the  Chinaman  gets  him  a  new  suit 
of  clothes  if  he  does  at  any  time  during  the  year,  and  he  takes  especial 
trouble  to  display  his  bright-coloured  garments.  In  the  matter  of  eating, 
the  Chinese  really  know  little  of  feasting,  except  at  weddings  and 
funerals,  and  even  then  their  diet  is  restricted  on  account  of  its  scarcity 
and  lack  of  variety.  The  plum  pudding  of  the  English  table,  and  the 
mince  pie  of  New  England,  in  China  become  the  dumpling.  No  New 
Year's  feast  would  be  considered  a  success  without  the  universal  dump- 
ling, and  with  it  the  feaster  is  satisfied,  if  his  fare  be  otherwise  ever 
so  plain  or  scanty.  Another  feature  of  New  Year's  is  the  custom  of 
trying  to  meet  it  square  with  the  world,  in  other  words,  to  have  can- 
celled so  far  as  has  been  possible  one's  indebtedness.  However,  this  is 
really  more  pretence  than  fact.     The  fact  is,  a  Chinaman  never  pays  a 


II   Mill:     OF     TINCillAI,     CIlfSA.V 


CHINA. 


251 


debt  he  can  put  off  another  day.  He  never  pays  until  he  has  been  asked, 
and  the  asking  becomes  dunning  in  its  most  severe  form  before  he  can 
bring  himself  to  settle.  This  is  carried  out  on  the  principle  tliat  if  he 
should  pay  one  debt  tlie  money  might  be  needed  to  pay  another,  and  so, 
rather  than  disajDpoint  one,  he  disappoints  all,  and  is  happy.  Under  this 
condition  it  might  be  thought  that  little,  if  any,  money-lending  would  be 
done.     But  no  man   who  has  money  can  escape  lending  to  some  poor 


VIEW    INSIDE    THE    ARSENAL,    SHANGHAI. 


relative  or  friend.  If  the  needy  one  cannot  induce  his  richer  relative  to 
grant  him  his  request,  he  resorts  to  some  one  higher  in  'the  social  circle 
who  will  eventually  obtain  the  desired  end. 

In  China  a  man  delegated  to  do  a  thing  is  expected  to  do  it,  whether  it 
is  borrowing  money,  finding  a  missing  person,  or  searching  for  some 
hidden  secret.  If  he  is  a  mining  engineer  and  he  fails  to  find  any  trace 
of  a  certain  mineral  that  he  is  looking  for,  he  is  considered  unfit  for  his 
place,  and  is  lucky  if  he  loses  his  position  and  saves  his  head.  The  result 
may  be  easily  imagined.     The  prosperity  of  an  mdividual,  or  a  town,  is 


seldom  indicated  by  outward  appearance.  In  fact,  the  richer  a  town 
becomes,  the  more  squalid  and  poverty-stricken  it  looks.  Commercial 
centres  situated  on  the  great  rivers  invariably  present  a  miserable 
appearance. 

With  all  their  industry,  —  and  whatever  may  be  their  failings  the  Chin- 
ese are  an  industrious  race,  —  one  half-moon,  however,  is  invariably  taken 
in  which  to  observe  the  ceremonies  of  New  Year,  lasting  until  the  Feast  of 
Lanterns.  During  these  two  weeks  no  work  that  can  be  left  undone  is 
done.  Doctor  Smith,  in  commenting  upon  this  custom,  says :  "  This 
period  becomes  a  safety-valve  for  the  nation,  which  else  might  go  dis- 
traught in  all  its  otherwise  ceaseless  toils."  It  is  a  national  vacation 
made  brighter  by  the  hard  work  of  the  rest  of  the  year. 

In  the  industry  of  the  Chinese  lies  the  secret"  of  such  success  as  they 
have  gained.  Still,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  this  very  industry  has  been  a 
hindrance  to  them  in  all  lines  of  progress.  It  keeps  them  from  the  broad 
way  of  improvement,  under  the  belief  that  what  calls  for  less  work,  the 
employment  of  fewer  hands,  must  be  an  evil  to  be  avoided.  It  is  against 
their  very  creed  to  advance.  Their  fathers  and  their  fathers'  fathers  did 
so  and  so,  and  it  would  cast  reflection  on  their  fair  reputations  to  do 
differently..  It  is  true  they  have  carried  the  cultivation  of  crops  so  far 
as  to  raise  three  or  four  of  these  from  the  same  soil  in  one  season,  but 
it  is  because  their  ancestors  did  so.  They  have  not  improved  the  tools 
with  which  they  do  this  work,  any  more  than  they  have  improved  the 
inferior  quality  of  the  fruit,  such  as  apples,  pears,  plums,  peaches,  apricots, 
and  strawberries.  China  might  have  an  abundance  of  the  best  fruit,  did 
her  inhabitants  desire  it. 

The  nights  are  chilly  and  damp,  but  the  days  remind  us  of  our  Indian 
summer,  a  golden  halo  encircling  the  sun  and  a  genial  glow  pervading 
all  the  atmosphere.  Sunsets  of  gorgeous  beauty  shed  a  matchless  glory 
over  the  sunny  slopes  and  rugged  walls  of  the  river. 

A  twist  in  the  river  brings  us  down  where  the  rapids  have  smoothed 
their  brows,  and  we  glide  into  still  waters,  to  wonder  that  the  coinite- 
nance  of  the  steersman  takes  on  an  anxious  look,  while  the  crew  seem  to 
be  preparing  for  some  great  ordeal.  We  look  ahead,  when  our  gaze 
becomes  fixed  u|)on  the  majestic  column  of  rock  which  Go  Mung  tells 
us  is  the  "Needle  of  Heaven,"  and  that  we  are  approaching  the  upper 


CHINA. 


258 


gateway  of  the  famous  gorge  of  Ichang,  the  wildest,  grandest  on  the 
Great  River. 

The  wall  on  our  right,  —  we  are  headed  nearly  south  now,  —  is  bold, 
bare,  and  precipitous,  but  the  opposite  barrier  is  wrought  into  a  thousand 
fantastic  shapes,  making  curious,  twisted,  spiral  columns,  with  pointed 
spears  directed  toward  the  sky,  cornices  of  odd  designs  and  balconies 
such  as  human  ingenuity  could  not  conceive,  while  terraces  and  grace- 
ful arclies    reach  from    rock-roof    to    rock-roof,   bridging  over   numerous 


WEST    GATE    OF    CHING  -  KEANG  -  FOO. 


caverns  and  deep  wells.  One  of  these  natural  bridges  is  pointed  out 
to  us  as  the  spot  from  which  a  pious  hermit  once  sought  to  reach 
the  sky  on  wings  of  faith,  and  just  l)eyoud  tlie  bold  outpost  is  the  site 
of  the  famous  temple  which  stood  where  the  four  ancient  kingdoms 
met. 

At  first  the  river  seems  to  be  blocked  by  the  solid  front,  but  upon  a 
nearer  approach  a  narrow  and  deep  passage  between  the  hiuh  walls 
appears^  a  race-course  where  at  flood  tides  the  l)oldest  boatman  dares 
not  try  to  pass.  Suddenly  the  day  takes  on  the  robe  of  twilight,  and 
we  have  entered  Ichansr  Gorge ! 


For  a  space  the  rocky  walls  rise  so  straight  from  the  water  as  not  to 
afford  a  foothold  for  the  most  venturesome  climber,  but  gradually  this 
changes,  and  the  bulwarks  of  limestone,  with  shifting  tints  of  purple, 
yellow,  and  brown,  retreat,  leaving  nooks  and  level  plots  contaimng  small 
orchards  and  groves  of  oranges  hanging  on  the  very  brink  of  rock-rimnied 
terraces,  or  hedged  in  by  massive  buttresses  fringed  to  their  tops  with 
dense  vegetation.  Anon  we  see  the  mud  huts  of  venturesome  people 
living  in  this  lonely  valley,  surrounded  hy  lime-kilns.     Here  and  there  the 


SUMMER    HOUSE    XEAR    SHANUIIAI. 


water  has  broken  through  the  porous  rocks,  and  trickles  down  as  if  coming 
through  a  sieve,  affording  a  happy  sustenance  for  asters,  chrysanthemums, 
and  clusters  of  other  flowers,  and  for  a  profusion  of  ferns,  some  of  them 
of  great  grace  and  beauty. 

Where  the  white-maned  racers  swirl  and  toss  in  sublime  fury,  giving 
the  boatmen  all  they  can  do  to  keep  the  light  craft  in  the  middle  of  the 
current,  we  rush  through  "  Wind-box  Gorge."  Then  comes  a  breathing 
spell ;  another  series  of  cataracts,  wilder  and  more  perilous  than  the  first, 
and  then  we  glide  gracefully  and  lightly  down  the  last  stage  of  Ichang^ 


CHINA. 


I'oo 


Gorge,  between  two  mighty  cliffs  which  form  a   fitting  gateway  at  the 
lower  end   of   this   wild  passage  of  nine  miles. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  we  are  alone  in  this  part  of  the  journey, 
any  more  than  on  the  rest,  for  many  dark  junks  are  met  struggling 
laboriously  up  the  stream,  or  going  as  we  are  with  the  current.  Those 
approaching  carry  little  strips  of  square  and  butterfly  sails,  which  lend 
small  assistance  to  the  shouting  trackers  straining  at  the  bamboo  ropes. 


THE   "SHANGHAI    TEA-GARDENS." 


At  places  these  men  spurt  along  smooth  paths,  while  at  other  sections  they 
are  obliged  to  crawl  on  their  hands  and  knees  over  diflicult  ridges  worn 
slippery  by  the  hawser  running  there  for  centuries,  often  cutting  deep 
grooves  into  the  soft  limestone.  Other  men  are  stationed  along  to  see 
that  the  rope  runs  free,  and  in  case  it  gets  caught  on  some  projection  or 
snag  in  the  water  to  throw  it  off.  Upon  coming  to  a  point  where  it  is 
impossible  to  follow  along  the  bank,  the  trackers  jump  aboard,  and  lend 
their  assistance  to  their  companions  in  propelling  the  craft  against  the 
tide.     At  one  point  the  crew  of  one  of  these  junks  were  making  the  scene 


hideous  with  their  unearthly  cries,  when  Go  Mung  assured  us  that  they 
were  calling  on  the  wind-god  for  help,  which  reminds  us  of  the  boatmen 
of  the  Danube  whistling  for  wind,  and  the  native  of  the  Canadian  wilds 
shooting  his  arrows  high  into  the  air  for  the  same  purpose.  We  are  told 
that  the  boatmen  of  the  West  River  whistle  for  the  wind,  when  there  is  a 
lull,  but  we  saw  nothing  of  the  kind. 

One  cannot  help  noticing  the  primitive  methods  of  these  boatmen,  who 
have  made  no  progress  in  the  management  of  their  junks  over  the  simple 
ways  employed  by  their  ancestors  more  than  two  thousand  years  ago. 
Just  as  the  "  sons  of  the  river  "  did  in  the  days  of  Marco  Polo,  they  make 
their  boats  tilting,  top-heavy  affairs,  and  the  trackers  pull  upon  ropes 
fastened  to  the  tops  of  masts,  that  bend,  creak,  groan,  and  threaten  to 
break  away  under  the  pressure  they  bring  upon  them.  Their  oars  are  simply 
round  poles  fastened  to  the  gunwales  with  loops  of  straw.  As  soon  as  a 
little  advance  is  made  the  crew  manage  to  hold  what  they  have  obtained 
by  the  most  strenuous  efforts,  by  securing  the  tow-lines  by  means  of  a  sort 
of  button  fixed  at  the  end.  During  all  this  wild  work,  which  is  so  strained 
and  unreal  to  the  foreigner,  the  crew  keep  up  an  unearthly  tumult  by 
shouting,  stamping,  and  screaming,  while  above  all  this  break  forth  the 
threats  and  commands  of  the  captain,  who  seems  even  wilder  than  his 
crew.      Where  foothold  cannot  be   obtained  sails  are  spread. 

Midway  in  the  gorge  we  come  upon  a  custom-boat  moored  by  the  bank, 
where  every  one  must  show  a  pass  or  pay  a  duty  on  his  cargo.  The  only 
improvement  which  has  been  made  in  this  river  traffic  was  accomplished 
by  Admiral  Ho,  who  showed  a  spirit  of  progress  rare  among  the  Chinese. 
Sent  up  here  to  suppress  a  band  of  river  pirates,  he  saw  the  necessity 
of  bettering  the  condition  of  the  way.  Although  unable  to  do  this,  he  did 
succeed  in  having  a  map  drafted,  showing  the  river  from  Ichang  to  Chung- 
king, making  clear  the  exact  formation  of  the  banks,  and  marking  the 
rocks  and  eddies  in  the  stream.  He  also  founded  a  system  of  life-boat 
patrol,  which  is  still  in  operation,  and  is  at  the  service  of  travellers.  One 
of  these  red  rowboats  accompanied  us,  giving  prestige  to  our  appearance 
and  ensuring  us  against  attacks  of  the  outlaws  who  are  only  too  eager  to 
rob  and  plunder  the  "  foreign  devils  "  in  this  region. 

Where  the  river  rushes  out  from  the  gorge  the  water  has  sculptured  in 
the  rock-wall  the  picturesque  ravine  of  San-Yu-Tung.     In  the  side  of  this 


CHINA. 


257 


rare  retreat  is  a  cave-temple  of  great  antiquity  and  considerable  historic 
interest.  It  is  reached  by  paths  leading  along  shelves  hewn  from  the 
rock,  and  through  archways  where  three  gates  afforded  protection  to 
the  occupants  of  the  place  in  the  times  of  feudal  wars.  The  cave  forms 
a  grand  apartment  of  considerable  size,  with  roof  sloping  dow^n  toward 
the  four  quarters,  and  supported  in  the  middle  by  a  massive  stone  pillar 
of  the  natural  rock.  At  the  farther  end  is  a  sacred  corner  containing 
many  images  of  gods  and  goddesses,  all  resplendent  in  their  golden  coats, 


THE    TAE-PING     SHAOU     KWAN, 


and  guarded  by.  carved  dragons,  gnomes,  and  other  creatures  of  fantastic 
shapes  half-concealed  in  niches  and  recesses  of  the  rocks.  The  walls  are 
embellished  with  inscriptions  in  bold  characters,  while  urns  and  incense 
burners  adorn  the  uncanny  place.  In  the  days  gone  by,  when  Buddhism 
held  triumphant  sway  from  Tibet  to  the  sea,  several  priests  lived  here  in 
the  midst  of  abundance,  but  now  only  a  few  too  poor  to  get  away  linger 
here,  content  to  get  a  mess  of  pottage  and  a  humble  resting-place  in  the 
smaller  caves  at  one  side  of  the  main  hall.  It  must  be  cool  there 
in  summer,  for  in  the  winter  it  is  like  the  bitter  cold  of  a  Siberian 
hovel. 


It  is  about  four  hundred  miles  from  Chung-king  to  the  lower  end 
of  this  gorge,  where  steam  navigation  begins,  and  the  river  comes  down 
through  what  is  poetically  styled  "  The  Mountains  of  Seven  Gates,"  so 
named  from  the  seven  deep  canons  the  water  has  cut  through  the  rocky 
barriers  in  its  course,  and  has  engraved  upon  the  limestone  walls  the 
records  of  its  stupendous  work  accomplished  after  ages  of  incessant  action. 
This  great  mountain  range  extends  across  the  continent  from  the  river 
Amur  on  the  north  to  the  Bay  of  Bengal  on  the  south. 

Two  miles  below  the  gorge  which  bears  its  name,  and  one  thousand 
miles  from  the  sea,  standing  under  the  shadows  of  this  backbone  of  China, 
is  the  city  of  Ichang.  At  this  season  the  custom-house  is  reached  by 
ascending  the  terraced  steps  of  an  embankment  seventy-five  feet  in  height, 
though  at  high  water  half  of  this  distance  would  be  saved.  It  is  not  a 
pleasant  city  for  the  American,  and  has  little  interest  for  the  tourist. 
The  same  sort  of  gray  walls  that  we  have  come  to  look  upon  as  a  part 
of  a  Chinese  city  follows  the  river  for  half  a  mile.  As  we  pass  down  the 
stream  we  notice  many  tumuli  of  earth,  and  are  told  that  they  are  a  part 
of  a  great  graveyard  extending  along  the  river  bank  for  a  mile,  and  for 
half  that  distance  back  into  the  country.  The  majority  of  those  who  are 
buried  here  were  victims  of  one  of  the  turbulent  riots  once  taking 
place  in  this  vicinity.  This  sacred  ground,  as  gruesome  as  it  may  seem, 
is  now  laid  out  in  golf  links,  the  course  made  of  thousands  of  bunkers  and 
hazards  quite  out  of  the  natural  order,  and  the  tees  marked  by  mandarin 
mounds. 

This  part  of  the  empire  is  filled  with  temples  on  the  hilltops  and 
shrines  in  the  caverns  underneath.  Four  miles  below  Ichang  a  palisade 
wall  rises  a  sheer  thousand  feet  above  us,  to  continue  for  nearly  a  mile. 
The  summit  is  crowned  by  the  monastery  of  Chih  Fu  Shan,  which  stands 
on  a  pinnacle  of  rock,  and  is  connected  with  the  palisade  by  a  stone 
bridge.  "This  neglected  old  Buddhist  fane,"  says  Miss  Scidmore,  "is  as 
remarkable  as  any  of  Thessaly's  *  monasteries  of  the  air,'  and  one  needs 
a  clear  head  and  steady  nerves  to  walk,  or  to  be  carried  in  an  open  chair, 
up  the  narrow  goat-path  on  the  rock's  face  and  along  a  knife-edged  ridge 
to  the  needle  rock.  There  is  a  dizzier  path  still,  up  rock-hewn  staircases 
around  to  the  monastery  door."  But  the  ancient  glory,  whatever  it  may 
have  been,  hanging  over  this  eerie  shrine,  has  fled  with  the  years.     The 


CHINA. 


259 


altars  have  been  stripped  of  their  treasures,  and  the  place  deserted  of 
worshippers,  save  for  a  handful  of  poorly  fed  and  as  poorly  clad  priests 
who  remain,  probably  too  poor  to  get  away. 

By  the  river  it  is  four  hundred  miles  from  Ichang  to  Hankow,  the 
most  important  city  on  the  Yangtse,  though  it  is  less  than  one-third 
this  distance  overland.  A  hundred  miles  below  the  first  named  city  the 
river  is  bordered  by  twin  lines  of  raised  mud-banks,  which  are  used  for 
roadways,  and  from  time  to  time  long  trains  of  men,  women,  and  children, 


NAVAL    COI.LKGK,     NANKIN. 


with  accompanying  carts,  pack-horses,  and  buffaloes,  are  outlined  against 
the  sky  with  marked  distinctness.  These  embankments  continue  almost 
down  to  Hankow,  or  for  nearly  three  lunidiHMl  miles,  and  ])egiu  at  tlie 
treaty  port  of  Shasi,  where  the  clay  and  gravel  l>aiiks  end.  Fields  are 
green  with  winter  wheat,  which  will  soon  be  ripening  in  the  summer  sun, 
for  spring  is  but  a  brief  transition  period  in  this  land.  Hills  continue 
to  form  the  background  of  the  landscape,  dotted  frequently  with  pagodas, 
whose  pointed  spires  pierce  the  distant  sky. 

As  we  are  now  on  the  regular  route  of  the  tourists,  which  has  been 
so  thoroughly  described,  we  shall  content  ourselves  with  a  few  running 


remarks.  In  the  course  of  our  journey  we  find  that  the  river  has  Deeu 
divided  and  its  waters  become  shallow,  the  larger  part  of  its  flood  having 
been  conveyed  by  a  canal  to  a  lake  lying  on  the  south,  called  the  Tung- 
ting.  Here  the  river  way  of  trade  is  crossed  by  the  great  land  route 
running  in  an  opposite  direction.  It  is  a  bustling  place.  Junks  laden 
with  merchandise  from  Szechuan  float  with  the  current  of  the  river, 
both  ahead  and  behind  us,  the  crews  making  incessant  noise  with  their 
loud  chant-like   songs,  while  they  steer   their  unwieldy  crafts  by  huge 


^^^^^^HhHH  jikV>^  ^1^^  i^j»^IS 

^% 

1'    "^  liffliM*  f  ' 

i    ■   c 

r  i^s^r^-r^ 

.    i*l.                      9lL'                                                        „      ,.-^i  -» 

ENTRANCE  TO  TEMPLE  NEAR  SUCHAU. 


sweeps  at  the  stern.  Other  junks  loaded  with  goods  for  the  up-country 
are  constantly  being  met,  the  ill-clad  crews  struggling  wearily  at  their 
tasks  of  sailing,  rowing,  or  tracking. 

An  ancient  walled  city,  now  a  treaty  port,  is  situated  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  Tung-ting.  Here  we  meet  wdth  the  most  stormy  reception  on 
our  trip,  and  are  only  too  glad  to  leave  Yo-chau,  with  its  ugly  spirits, 
behind.  The  Hu-nan  element  seems  to  prevail  here,  and  they  have  the 
worst  possible  hatred  for  foreigners.  This  may  be  well  called  the  hot- 
bed of   prejudice  against   outside  people,  and   many  a   devout  follower 


CHINA. 


261 


of  the  Christian  Church  has  paid  the  penalty  of  his  overconfidence  in 
escape  from  harm  with  his  life.  Yo-chaii  has  a  dismal  past  and  a 
gloomy  future. 

With  its  dark  environments  of  ignorance  and  superstition,  there  is 
an  island  in  Tung-ting  Lake  known  as  Kin  Shan,  or  "  Golden  Island," 
noted  as  growing  the  tea  drunk  by  his  Imperial  Majesty,  the  emperor. 
Each  bud  of  this  precious  plant  is  looked  upon  as  sacred,  and  is  zeal- 


EARTIIEN    WATKK-JAK 


^UA^•(.1IAI. 


ously  guarded  by  the  priests  until  it  unfolds  its  leaf  and  matures.  Nc 
one  is  allowed  to  taste  of  it.  During  tlie  Taiping  relx'llion,  on  account 
of  this  association  with  the  imperial  power  at  the  Purple  Forbidden  City, 
the  island  was  desolated  by  the  rebels,  but  they  failed  to  destroy  the  roots 
of  this  herb,  and  the  tea  plantations  of  the  sacred  spot  were  soon  sending 
their  supplies  to  the  capital  as  before.  This  tea,  if  it  could  be  bought, 
would  bring  a  fabulous  price. 

Within   three    weeks   after   leaving   Szechuan    we   reach    Hankow,  of 


which  we  have  heard  frequent  accounts  ever  since  we  sighted  the  coast 
of  Asia,  but  it  disappoints  us.  Nowhere  have  we  seen  so  strongly  tlie 
imprint  of  the  Russian  liand,  and  everywhere  the  shadow  of  Siberia 
falls  darkly.  As  at  the  outposts  of  China,  the  White  Empire  has 
established  its  hold  upon  this  inland  gate,  in  spite  of  British  threats 
and  Chinese  watchfulness.  Hankow  is  destined  to  become  a  Musco- 
vite city.  It  was  at  one  time  a  great  tea  mart,  but  since  China  teas 
have  fallen  into  such  ill  favour  with  the  British  market  it  has  lost 
ground.  During  the  tea  trade  this  city  is  a  hustling,  bustling  place, 
but  this  lasts  only  a  few  weeks,  from  the  first  of  May  to  the  middle 
of  June,  when  the  invoices  of  the  best  teas  are  sent  off.  The  poorer 
qualities,  such  as  leaf  tea,  are  sent  off  as  late  ae  September,  and  "  brick 
tea"  until  January,  but  the  business,  as  far  as  it  concerns  the  foreign 
powers,  is  done  by  the  20th  of  June. 

Abbe  Hue,  who  wrote  of  this  country  in  1845,  gave  to  Hankow  and 
her  sisters,  Hang-yang  and  Wu-chang,  a  population  of  eight  million, 
the  three  cities  being  "filled  to  overflowing."  But  they  all  fell  under 
the  blighting  touch  of  the  Taipings,  when  not  only  the  cities  proper 
were  deluged  in  blood,  but  the  vast  floating  population  of  the  river 
afforded  miles  of  burning  junks  and  the  loss  of  thousands  of  lives  when 
the  Taiping  torch  was  applied  with  hands  that  were  strangers  to  mercy. 

Hankow  is  not  a  cleanly  city  by  any  means,  while  Han-yang,  reeking 
in  filth  and  disorder,  is  far  worse  off.  There  are  an  arsenal  and  iron 
works  here,  the  metal  being  brought  from  mines  seventy-five  miles  away, 
and  a  large  part  of  the  coal  from  Japan.  It  seems  to  be  cheaper  to  import 
this  fuel  than  to  dig  in  the  earth  under  one's  feet  for  it  under  Chinese 
methods  of  mining !  Wu-chang  has  been  styled  the  "  Queen  of  the 
Yangste ; "  if  so,  she  is  a  queen  in  disgrace,  clothed  in  rags,  covered 
with  dirt,  and  wreathed  in  scowls. 

One  hundred  and  eighty-seven  miles  of  river  run  through  a  fine  country 
between  Hankow  and  Kiu-kiang,  situated  just  above  the  estuary  leading 
to  Lake  Po-yung.  We  stop  over  one  day  at  Kiu-kiang,  which  is  the 
centre  of  a  network  of  streams  and  canals  that  form  chains  of  trade. 
The  lake  is  likely  to  be  opened  soon  to  steam  navigation,  when  this  city 
will  become  of  greater  commercial  importance.  The  region,  if  lacking 
in  modern  interest,  is  rich  in  legends  of  the  past,  when  this  was  made 


CHINA.  263 

classic  ground  by  one  of  the  philosophers  of  Confucian  doctrine.  Here^ 
too,  at  one  time  the  followers  of  Buddha  were  many  and  mighty, 
while  there  is  pointed  out  the  ruins  of  what  is  claimed  to  have  been 
the  mission  of  some  Ricci  Jesuits  in  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth 
century. 


NATIVE    SPINNING-WHEEL    AND    LOOM. 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 


FROM    THE    MOUNTAIlSrS    TO    THE    SEA. 


WHILE  Leake  Po-yung  is  Cliina's  classic  sheet  of  water,  the  "  mirror 
of  the  sky,"  as  Li  Tai  Peh  poetically  designated  it,  it  has  not 
only  been  consecrated  to  poetry  and  religion,  Imt  it  has  been 
noted  for  its  fine  potteries,  the  finest  in  the  world  until  the  wares  of 
Dresden,  Sevres,  and  Delft  rivalled  it.  It  was  here  the  porcelain  was 
made  from  which  was  constructed  that  seventh  wonder  of  Nankin,  its 
porcelain  tower.  The  hills  about  the  city  of  King-te-chen  afforded  the 
materials  for  the  industry,  which  the  Jesuits  described  as  carried  on  by 
inspired  workmen.  If  the  fall  of  this  city  has  been  greater  than  that 
of  any  other  that  we  liaA^e  seen,  it  is  because  it  fell  from  a  greater  height. 
The  cause  of  this  decline  is  laid  at  the  door  of  the  Taiping  rebels,  who 
have  to  answer  for  much  in  the  despoliation  of  the  empire,  if  half  that  is 
told  is  true.  It  was  these  raiders  who  stormed  the  walls  of  the  sacred 
works,  who  trampled  in  the  earth  the  noble  structure,  who  slaughtered 
the  "  wizard  "  potters  by  the  thousands,  and  who  laid  in  waste  the  fairest 
of  the  four  great  marts  of  China.     It  is  slowly  rising  from  its  ashes,  but 


CHINA.  265 

the  resurrection  gives  little  promise  of  restoring  the  prestige  it  lost.  The 
Jesuits  gave  very  vivid  accounts  of  the  many  fine  tints  obtained  at  the 
porcelain  works,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  such  as  "  the  rose  of 
gold,"  "  the  blush  of  morning,"  and  "  the  missionary  colours."  To-day 
the  only  kind  of  pottery  done  here  is  of  the  crudest  sort.  From  the  sunny 
slopes  of  the  shores  of  Lake  Po-yung  and  the  tributary  streams  come  some 
of  the  finest  teas  of  China.  One  of  the  modern  features  which  is  rob- 
bing the  new  city  of  the  romance  clinging  to  its  predecessor  is  steam 
navigation. 

We  are  now  entering  the  heart  of  the  Great  Plain  of  the  Lower  Yangtse, 
bounded  on  the  inland  border  by  the  mountain  barriers  of  Hupei  and 
Szechuan,  a  vast  expanse  of  territory  builded  from  a  swamp  l^y  the  debris 
deposited  by  the  Great  River,  and  the  sand-storms  which  sweep  over  this 
country  often  with  terrific  fury.  Accounts  are  fresh  in  the  minds  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  burial  of  houses  and  crops.  Below  Shasi  the  river 
changes  its  character,  and  with  its  network  of  feeders  becomes  the 
mightiest  system  of  waterways  and  inland  seas  to  be  found.  Tung-ting 
Lake,  the  outlet  for  Yuan  River,  alone  covers  two  thousand  square 
miles. 

The  work  of  creation  done  by  this  prolific  river  is  beyond  actual 
computation,  and  how  far  inland  the  Sea  of  China  once  spread  over  the 
land  can  be  measured  by  the  geologist  only  after  extended  investigations. 
Since  the  beginning  this  remarkable  stream  has  been  bringing  its  offerings 
to  the  sea  and  the  adjoining  country.  There  is  a  Chinese  saying  that 
exclaims :  "  Behold  the  mighty  son  hastening  to  an  imperial  greeting  to 
the  sea."  If  this  picture  is  the  painting  of  Oriental  imager}-,  the  Yangtse 
Kiang  has  performed  a  nobler  and  mightier  work  in  creating  the  ^'ast 
alluvial  plain  reaching  over  eight  hundred  miles  from  the  sea,  and  support- 
ing a  population  of  over  one  hundred  million  people.  Scientists  estimate 
that  it  carries  annually  into  the  ocean  debris  at  the  rate  of  770,000  solid 
feet  every  second,  besides  fertilising  with  its  overflows,  more  regular  and 
pronounced  than  those  of  the  river  Nile,  the  country  it  has  produced. 
The  rapidity  with  which  this  filling  up  has  been  going  on  is  shown  by  the 
fact  that  where,  a  little  over  half  a  centur}'  ago,  British  ships  sailed  along 
one  of  its  channels,  there  is  now  an  expanse  of  forest,  cultivated  fields,  and 
a  thriving  village. 


Tea  culture,  which  is  such  an  important  factor  in  the  wealth  of  this 
great  district,  really  affords  the  class  that  does  the  hard  work  only  a 
scanty  living,  —  a  mere  pittance  of  the  soil.  We  find,  as  a  rule,  that  the 
tea  farms,  as  we  should  call  them,  are  small  in  area,  comprising  but  an 
acre  or  two,  and  are  almost  invariably  owned  by  some  rich  capitalist,  who 
pays  the  land  tax  and  rents  them  to  the  men  who  are  too  poor  to  own  them. 
When  the  crop  has  been  harvested  and  cured  the  tea  is  sold  to  the  land- 
owners at  their  own  price,  and  from  season  to  season  the  tenant  thinks 
himself  lucky  if  he  obtains  a  bare  sustenance  out  of  that  which  becomes 


TABLET    NEAK    NANKIN. 


one  of  the  world's  most  widely  distributed  luxuries.  If  these  teas  are  not 
purchased  by  the  owners  of  the  land,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  partly  dried 
in  the  sun,  following  the  annual  picking  which  begins  in  April,  they  are 
often  taken  in  baskets  to  tea  fairs  and  there  sold  to  the  highest  bidders. 
These  are  usually  merchants  from  Canton,  or  some  other .  seaport,  who 
often  combine  to  secure  the  crop  at  far  less  than  its  actual  value.  On 
other  occasions  the  bidding  becomes  spirited,  the  competition  sometimes 
bitter,  the  result  being  a  benefit  to  the  raisers.  When  the  offerings  have 
been  bought  up,  the  buyers  mix  the  lots  raised  by  different  farmers 
together,  when  they  are  subjected  to  the  "firing"  process. 

Women  and  children  are  hired  to  sort  over  the  collections,  picking  out 


<.HIM>K    I'HIKST,     SlIAN(;ilAI. 


CHINA. 


267 


the  stems  and  stalks.  Men  follow  this  slow  work  by  winnowing  the 
leaves.  The  portion  properly  cured  is  sent  off,  while  the  rest  is  kept  to 
go  through  the  firing  process  again,  and  this  when  properly  dried  is  sent 
off.  But  this  is  not  done  until  the  buyers  have  carefully  divided  the  entire 
lot  into  two  or  three  sorts  or  grades,  these  divisions  being  called  chops. 
The  highest  grade  consists  of  the  smallest  and  most  closely  curled  leaves ; 
the  second  being  made  up  of  the  inferior  leaves ;  the  stems,  broken  leaves, 
and  sittings  forming  the  third  chop.  The  last  grade  is  used  largely  in 
mixing  with  better  qualities  to  make  a  sort  of  medium  article. 


i 


CONKLCIAN     TKMl'LK,     NANKIN. 


The  tea  farmer  is  not  the  only  one  who  follows  a  laborious  existence 
in  the  raising  of  this  universal  plant.  Not  onh-  is  the  stock  raised  in  the 
lower  valleys  and  districts  easily  reached  from  the  seaboard,  but  hundreds, 
even  thousands  of  miles  from  the  market,  the  tillers  of  the  soil  raise  their 
crops  among  the  mountainous  regions  of  the  interior.  From  these 
localities  the  transportation  of  the  crop  becomes  an  important,  and  often 
precarious,  undertaking.  This  is  accomplished  largely  by  boats  upon  the 
rivers,  though  often  chops  of  tea  have  to  be  carried  for  miles  on  the  backs 
of  men,  over  mountain  pathways  where  less  sure-footed  travellers  would 
not  dare  to  go.  The  navigators  of  tea  boats  are  men  of  remarkable  nerve 
and  agility,  with  a  skill  gained  only  after  long  experience  in  hazardous 


work.  The  inland  rivers  of  China  are  noted  for  their  swift  currents, 
sharp  curves,  and  bewildering  twists.  The  foreigner  looks  upon  the 
descent  of  one  of  the  rapids  with  feelings  akin  to  horror.  We  remember 
running  down  one  of  these  turbulent  streams,  where  we  held  our  breath 
and  stood  ready  to  leap  for  life  at  any  moment,  though  such  action  must 
have  resulted  in  fatal  consequences.  We  had  just  made  a  long  series  of 
these  furious  courses,  and  were  beginning  to  think  the  worst  of  the  danger 
was  over,  when  lo !  we  were  drawn  into  the  wildest  section  we  had  seen. 
Worse  than  all  else,  the  stormy  passage  seemed  to  find  an  abrupt  end 
against  the  side  of  a  high  precipice,  which  thrust  its  forbidding  front 
across  the  stream.  It  was  not  until  the  prow  of  our  light  craft  was  borne 
down  at  full  tilt  within  a  yard  of  this  wall  that  we  were  able  to  see  the 
unlooked-for  change  in  the  course  of  the  mad  river.  Even  then  we  gave 
a  forlorn  look  at  our  steersman,  to  find  him  standing  on  the  bridge  of  the 
boat,  with  his  hands  laid  firmly  on  the  long  rudder,  his  gaze  fixed  intently 
on  the  scene  ahead,  and  his  countenance  without  a  trace  of  that  anxiety 
one  would  naturally  look  for  under  such  exciting  circumstances.  At  the 
last  moment,  when  to  us  it  seemed  too  late  to  be  of  avail,  he  threw  the 
whole  weight  of  his  supple  form  upon  the  lever,  which  swung  the  faithful 
craft  around  just  in  season  to  clear  the  rock,  though  it  fairly  scraped 
against  its  adamantine  front.  The  next  moment  we  were  caught  in  the 
surge  of  the  rebounding  current,  which  swept  us  down  the  foaming  race- 
course with  a  velocity  which  fairly  took  away  our  breath  and  closed  our 
eyes.  When  we  had  recovered  enough  to  realise  our  situation,  we  found 
that  we  were  being  carried  swiftly  through  smooth  waters  by  the  fearful 
momentum  we  had  gained  in  running  the  gauntlet  of  the  rapids  above. 
The  steersman  was  remaining  at  his  post,  as  calm  and  immobile  as  ever, 
ready  to  take  his  life  in  hand  again  at  the  next  leap  of  the  mountain 
stream.  This  life  he  follows  year  after  year,  until  some  untoward  accident 
causes  him  to  miss  his  calculation  and  his  boat  is  dashed  upon  the  deadly 
rocks,  where  his  mangled  form  lies  to  remind  him  who  follow^s  of  the  fate 
that  almost  invariably  overtakes  the  men  who  risk  all  this,  for  the  mere 
earning  of  scanty  food  and  raiment. 

The  closing  scene  in  this  drama  of  mountain  gorges  and  cataracts  is 
the  threading  of  the  narrow  defile  known  as  Siau-ku  Shan,  or  "  Little 
Orphan  Gorge,"  which  is  the  rocky  gateway  to  three  provinces,  Hupei, 


CHINA. 


269 


Anhwei,  and  Kwangsi.  This  picturesque  place,  presenting  a  rocky 
frontage  of  nearly  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  the  side  of  the  cliff 
set  with  temples  and  monasteries,  and  overlooked  by  a  fantastic  pagoda, 
clusters  with  legends  and  romantic  tales. 

At  one  time  a  placid  lake  rested  here  on  the  broad  bosom  of  the  land, 
over  which  an  ancient  mariner  steered  his  lonely  craft  by  day  and  moored 
her  at  nightfall  amid  the  forests  of  reeds  that  overhung  the  shores.  In 
weighing  anchor  one  morning  he  found  that  it  was  uncommonly  heav}^, 


AN    ITINERANT    DOCTOR. 


SO  he  descended  to  learn  its  cause.  His  surprise  was  great  npon  finding 
a  water-nymph  asleep  on  its  fluke.  Stealing  upon  her,  he  took  away  her 
tiny  shoes  as  mementoes,  and  tipping  lip  the  anchor  caused  her  to  fall 
off,  when  he  arose  to  the  snrface  and  made  away  with  all  speed  possible, 
fearing  she  might  pursne  him.  Upon  awakening  and  finding  her  slippers 
gone,  she  started  after  him,  and  gave  him  such  a  chase  that  he  was  glad 
to  fling  them  back  to  her.  The  imprints  where  these  fell  are  yet  to  be 
seen  in  "  The  Shoe  Rock." 

The  origin  of  the  rock-island  is  accounted  for  by  the  legend  of  a  great 
flood,  when  the  people  in  this  country  were  all  drowned,  except  two  small 


children,  a  boy  and  a  girl,  who  were  taken  on  the  back  of  a  frog.  In 
order  to  reach  smoother  water  tliis  humane  creature '  began  to  swim 
away,  which  so  frightened  and  grieved  the  children  that  they  threw 
themselves  into  the  flood  and  were  drowned.  Where  one  fell  rises 
"  Little  Orphan  Rock,"  and  where  the  other  was  lost  stands  that 
perpetual  memorial,  "  Big  Orphan  Island,"  near  the  entrance  to  Lake 
Po-yung. 

During  another  of  the  great  floods  of  the  river  a  beautiful  woman, 
who  was  noted  for  piety  and  nobility  of  character,  was  carried  away  on 
the  bosom  of  the  stream,  to  be  left  on  the  top  of  this  rock,  where  she  was 
fed  by  the  birds  —  some  believe  by  cormorants  —  until  rescued  by  some 
of  the  river  folk.  This  caused  it  to  become  consecrated  ground ;  it  grew 
to  be  a  favourite  retreat  for  annual  pilgrims,  all  of  whom  contributed 
most  liberally  to  its  adornment.  Gorgeous  temples  and  shrines  were 
builded  into  the  niches  in  the  rock-wall,  and  staircases  and  galleries 
were  cut  in  the  solid  stone.  But  the  glory  of  all  this  has  passed  away. 
The  names  of  some  of  the  pious  pilgiims  who  visited  here  remain  carved 
in  the  limestone  wall,  but  the  shrines  are  falling  to  pieces  and  the  temples 
no  longer  awaken  to  the  inspiration  of  many  voices.  Only  a  few  half- 
starved  priests  climb  the  rock-stairs  where  once  some  of  the  most  illus- 
trious men  of  the  imperial  empire  loved  to  pass  a  brief  vacation  from 
the  toils  and  trials  of  the  world. 

Below,  green  meadows  stretch  away  to  the  base  of  the  mountains 
forming  the  backgroimd.  Occasionally  herds  of  black  cattle  are  seen 
grazing  in  the  distance,  while  the  scattered  dwellings  of  the  people  are 
half  concealed  by  a  shelter  of  wide-spreading  trees  that  make  them  all 
the  more  conspicuous,  while  here  and  there  the  ancestral  tombs  of  the 
race  loom  up  like  sacred  shrines.  However  remiss  the  Chinese  may  be 
in  their  care  of  children,  or  their  respect  for  womanhood,  they  are  exceed- 
ingly faithful  to  their  dead.  No  one  need  fear  that  in  departing  from 
this  life  his  funeral  will  not  be  conducted  in  proper  accord  with  his 
station,  or  that  his  grave  will  not  be  kept  in  good  condition.  Some  of 
the  tombs  among  the  better  class  are  beautiful  structures  of  large 
black  stones,  carved  with  long  inscriptions  of  poetry  or  proverb, 
sheltered  in  some  localities  by  an  ancient  banyan-tree  or  by  the  beloved 
bamboo. 


CHINA. 


271 


Then  the  valley  widens,  until  a  broad  panorama  of  country  is  entered, 
which  finally  begins  to  contract,  and  again  the  old  river,  dirty  like  all 
of  China's  waterways,  flows  sullenly  between  brown  hills,  under  forests 
of  giant  reeds,  and  through  the  "  Pillar  Hills,"  the  lower  gate  of  the 
Great  River,  and  soon  after  we  reach  Nankin,  the  largest  city  in  area 
in  the  empire,  being  twenty-two  miles  in  circuit.  This  city  is  greater  in 
its  memories  than  in  its  realities.     Le  Comte  described  it  as  "  a  splendid 


>V*lf/>^'' 


*<.!#'*-;'4 


MILITARY    STATION    NKAR    CHOKIAN. 


city  surrounded    by  walls   one   within   another,  and   the   one  outermost 
sixteen  long  leagues  round." 

Like  all  Chinese  cities,  and  villages  for  that  matter,  the  populated 
portion  is  densely  filled,  although  surrounded  by  acres  of  open  coun- 
try. There  are  also  miles  of  streets  in  ruins,  sorrowful  proof  of 
the  devastation  wrought  by  tlie  Imperialists  in  recent  days,  when  the 
"heavenly  king,"  Tien-wang,  acting  under  the  claim  that  he  was  the 
second  son  of  God  and  endowed  with  the  mission  of  saving  China  from 
the  darkness  of  Buddliism,  was  crushed  by  the  Imperial  army  which, 
rallied  and  drilled  by  the  intrepid  Americans,  Ward  and  Bergevine,  was 
transformed  into  the  "Ever  Victorious  Army"  by  the  redoubtable  Gordon. 


Something  of  the  religious  faith  and  mode  of  military  tactics  of  this 
"visionary  conqueror"  is  shown  in  the  wild  vagaries  of  his  "heavenly 
court"  held  in  this  city,  his  capital;  in  the  indolent  carelessness  with 
which  he  reviewed  his  troops  arrayed  in  silken  suits  seized  during  their 
raids  of  princely  palaces ;  in  the  sublime  indifference  with  which  he  met 
the  reverses  of  fortune ;  in  the  blind  faith  with  which  he  commanded  his 
starving  army  to  feed  upon  dew  and  sing  the  glory  of  heavenly  peace 


BEGGAU'S    HUTS    ON    SITE    OF    PORCELAIN    PAGODA,    NANKIN. 


until  deliverance  should  come  ;  and  in  the  tragic  heroism  of  death  at  his 
own  hands,  when  he  saw  that  the  end  of  his  reign  was  near. 

During  the  Ming  dynasty,  when  it  was  the  southern  capital  of  this 
imperial  line.  Nankin  was  the  centre  of  arts,  literature,  and  luxury, 
but  it  lost  this  prestige  with  tlie  weakening  of  that  power. 

On  one  of  the  battle-grounds  of  the  Taiping  rebels  and  the  Imperial- 
ists, where  now  stands  the  southern  gate,  is  a  suburb  of  considerable 
size,  though  of  slight  attractions  and  promise  of  permanency,  since  the 
dwellings  of  the  people  here  are  nothing  but  poorly  built  huts.  Not 
far  away  is  a  small  bridge  spanning  the   canal,  where   it   is   said  the 


CHINA. 


273 


waters  were  dammed  by  the  heads  of  the  rebels,  and  a  crimson  lake 
was  formed  by  the  mingling  blood  of  rival  forces,  just  as  the  waters  of 
the  Waluiki  in  the  Hawaiian  valley  were  stopped  by  the  dead  of  the 
natives,  and  the  current  of  tlie  river  was  reddened  to  tlie  sea  by  the  blood 
of  the  slain.  Nearer  this  unseemly  patch  of  hovels  attached  to  the  ancient 
city  is  the  site  of  that  famous  structure  once  looked  upon  as  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world,  the  white  porcelain  tower,  now  in  ruins ;  and  its 
bricks  are  offered  to  relic-hunters  at  trifling  prices. 

The  larger  portion  of  the  building  material  of  the  grandest  monument 
China  ever  contributed  to  Buddhism  has  been  utilised  in  building  that 
more  modern  and  warlike  edifice,  the  arsenal,  "  where  the  monastery 
with  its  monotonous  chants  has  been  replaced  by  a  temple  dedicated  to 
the  Chinese  Vulcan  and  Mars,  whose  altars  are  furnaces,  whose  wor- 
shippers are  melters  of  iron,  and  from  whose  shrines  come  the  never 
ceasing  rattle  of  machinery  and  the  reports  of  rifles  that  are  being  tested 
for  service." 

This  arsenal  was  projected  by  Li  Hung  Chang,  but  it  is  conducted 
under  foreign  supervision,  and  its  methods  are  the  results  of  investiga- 
tion and  practice  acquired  in  foreign  countries,  notwithstanding  the  fact 
that  the  Chinese  are  credited  with  the  use  of  firearms  as  long  ago  as  the 
first  of  the  thirteenth  century.  The  natives,  at  first,  undertook  to 
manage  the  arsenal  themselves,  but  the  weapons  they  made  were  more 
dangerous  to  the  soldier  at  the  stock  than  to  the  man  liefore  the 
muzzle,  and  mobs  and  riots  became  every-day  occurrences.  Everj'thing 
in  the  line  of  firearms  is  made  here,  from  caps  and  cartridges  to  shot 
and  shells,  rockets  and  torpedoes.  Catling  guns  and  field-artillery,  how- 
itzers and  heavy  guns  for  battery  trains. 

Our  last  view  of  Nankin  is  formed  by  dark  walls  and  desolated  slopes, 
an  unpleasant  memory  to  carry  away,  which  we  attempt  to  enliven  with 
the  scenes  along  the  broad  carriage  road.  The  next  place  of  importance 
proves  to  be  Chin-kiang,  a  city  with  a  most  checkered  career  of  upbuilding 
and  tearing  down,  of  streets  overrunning  with  riots,  of  inside  insurrections 
and  outside  assaults,  of  bombardments  that  have  spared  neither  sacred 
shrines  nor  private  dwellings ;  a  city  that  has  been  too  often  an  armed 
encampment  and  too  seldom  a  commercial  centre.  To  say  nothing  of 
more  remote  disturbances  which  have  unsettled  its  peace  and  prosperity, 


it  was  under  the  siege  of  the  Britisli  in  1842 ;  the  Taipings  captured  it  in 
1853 ;  the  Imperialists,  in  1857,  recovered  the  wreck  the  others  had  left;  a 
year  later  it  was  opened  to  foreign  trade  ;  in  1889,  after  a  third  of  a  century 
of  unusual  good  fortune  for  a  Chinese  city,  it  again  came  under  mob  rule, 
when  every  foreign  building,  with  the  exception  of  the  Catholic  mission, 
was  laid  in  waste,  and  the  foreign  inhabitants  were  obliged  to  seek  safety 
in   flight.       The   description    of    what    followed    lias    been    most   vividly 


THE    BEAMLESS    TEMPLE,    SPIRIT    VALLEY,    NANKIN. 


portrayed  by  Miss  Scidmore :  "  By  one  of  those  fortunate  accidents  that 
just  saved  our  foreign  service  now  and  then,  the  United  States  consul  at 
Ching-kiang  was  a  veteran  in  consular  and  Eastern  service,  whose  courage 
and  sturdy  Americanism  were  a  match  for  the  wiles  of  the  tao-tai,  or  local 
governor,  who  had  short  orders  from  Pekin  to  settle  for  the  damage 
wrought.  Other  consuls  accepted  minimum  sums  for  their  losses,  and 
obliged  their  countrymen  to  do  the  same ;  but  General  Jones  stood  for 
ample  indemnity  or  none,  and  the  meekness  of  the  other  consuls  in 
accepting   any   trifle    'for    peace's    sake,'   and  'lest    it    embarrass   trade 


CHINA. 


275 


relations,'  only  added  fuel  to  his  ire.  The  tao-tai  made  seveial  visits  and 
specious  pleas,  witliout  General  Jones  abating  one  cash  of  his  first  demand ; 
and  meanwhile  Pekin  inquired  of  the  tao-tai :  '  Have  you  settled  with 
those  foreign  devils  yet  ? '  '  Why  don't  you  pay  those  claims  at  once  ?  * 
etc.  The  '  river '  was  convulsed  with  accounts  of  General  Jones's 
encounters  with  the  mercenary  tao-tai,  and  of  the  final  scene  where  the 
bluff  and  bellicose  American,  advancing  with  uplifted  forefinger,  thundered 
at  the  tao-tai :    '  You,   sir,   are  the   tao-tai  of  Chin-kiang '    (every   word 


BOUDOIK    AXn    BEDCIIAMBKU    OF    FASIIK  )NA  lil.K    LADY, 


fraught  with  super-scorn  and  contempt),  '  while  I,  /,  sir,  am  the  American 
consul ! '  This,  delivered  witli  the  swelling  breast,  a  magnificent,  New 
World.  Ijroad-continent  gesture,  the  mien  and  voice  of  Jove,  made  the 
trembling  tao-tai  turn  pale  green  and  cease  his  haggling."  Not  only  was 
General  Jones  paid  the  indemnity  he  deemed  just,  but  he  rose  in  the 
estimation  of  the  Chinese,  and  from  that  time  received  greater  con- 
sideration than  any  other  foreigner  in  the  Far  East. 

Chin-kiang  receives  much  of  its  prestige  from  the  fact  that  it  is  on  the 
line  of  the  Grand  Canal,  which  is  really  the  greatest  achievement  of 
the  race,  throwing  quite  into  the  shade  the  mighty  outlay  of  time  and 


labour  spent  in  building  that  colossal  stone  wall  that  has  created  so  much 
wondering  talk  among  foreigners.  This  canal,  now  falling  into  disuse, 
was  once  the  great  maritime  highway  between  Hangchow  on  the  south, 
and  Tientsin  on  the  north.  About  a  dozen  miles  up  the  canal  from  the 
Yangtse  Kiang  is  the  ancient  city  of  Yang-chau,  which  is  noted  for  having 
been  governed  by  the  adventurous  Venetian,  Marco  Polo.  It  contains  a 
population  of  half  a  million  or  more,  and  enjoys  greater  prosperity,  vaster 
riches,   finer   temples,    more   gorgeous    pagodas,    larger    shops,    shrewder 


OUTKK     BUILDING    OF    CONKIX'IAX    TEMPLE,     NAXKI.N. 

dealers,  greater  scholars,  is  better  governed,  and  is  of  higher  renown 
than  Chin-kiang. 

North  of  the  canal  and  lying  alongside  the  Great  River  is  the  largest 
and  most  productive  rice-field  in  the  world.  It  is  estimated  to  comprise 
an  area  of  nine  thousand  square  miles  below  the  water  level,  but  protected 
from  overflow  by  huge  dikes  and  drained  by  artificial  ^vaterwaj'S,  which 
are  under  constant  watch.  But  its  most  important  drainage  is  made  by 
the  Yangtse  River,  flowing  with  Amazonian  majesty  into  the  sea. 

The  surroundings  of  Chin-kiang  are  among  the  most  picturesque  and 
absorbing  to  be  found  anywhere  along  the  banks  of  the  far-reaching  river. 
Passing  through  a  narrow  channel  and  turning  from  the  beautiful  hill- 
sides, we  look  upon  two  spots  of  especial  interest  and  admiration  to  every 
true  Chinaman.     These  are  the  sacred  pillars  of  rugged  rocks,  beautified 


CHINA.  277 

and  sanctified  by  the  pious  followers  of  Buddha  and  desecrated  and 
devastated  by  the  rebels  of  Taiping,  Tsiao  Shan,  or  "  Silver  Island," 
and  Kiu  Shan,  or  "  Golden  Island."  Marco  Polo  found  over  two  hundred 
sleek  priests  performing  their  religious  duty  on  the  first,  which  was 
literally  covered  with  towers,  temples,  terraces,  and  gateways  ornamented 
with  fantastic  carvings,  while  with  the  music  of  bells  and  the  sounds  of 
gongs  constantly  mingled  the  deep-toned  chants  of  the  devout  worshippers. 
But  all  this  has  suffered  a  serious  inroad,  and  the  temples  lie  in  ruins,  the 
groves  are  desolate,  the  grottoes  and  niches  are  untenanted,  and  even 
the  cave  of  the  "  river  gods,"  who  were  supposed  to  rule  the  floods  of  sky 
and  land,  is  known  only  in  the  legends  of  a  happier  day.  This  island  is 
interesting  to  Americans  from  the  fact  that  one  of  their  consuls  took  up 
his  residence  here,  and  that  above  the  crumbling  temples  of  a  despotic 
empire  floated  the  flag  of  a  free  people.  During  the  Chinese-Japanese  war 
this  island  was  a  military  stronghold. 

Golden  Island  was  noted  as  highly  for  its  learned  men  and  its  library 
of  rare  books,  as  its  sister  island  was  for  her  temples  and  sacred  groves, 
but  these  fell  under  the  blighting  touch  of  the  Taiping  rebels,  who  spared 
nothing  that  bore  any  association  with  the  religion  they  despised.  During 
their  trouble  with  China  in  1842  the  British  occupied  this  island,  and 
talked  of  sending  the  valuable  library  —  one  of  the  richest  that  China 
possessed  —  to  London,  but  concluded  not  to  do  so,  more's  the  pity. 

As  we  leave  these  strange  outposts  we  realise  fully  that  we  are 
drawing  near  to  the  big  city  of  Shanghai,  which  we  first  sighted  off  the 
coast  of  the  continent  a  year  and  a  half  ago,  and  we  feel  that  at  last 
our  stupendous  round-robin  trip  of  thousands  of  miles  is  drawing  to  a 
close. 


THE    SOOCHOW    CREEK,    SHANGHAI. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


SHANGHAI,  THE  CITY  OF  COMMERCE. 


WHERE  the  Great  River  spreads  out  its  turbid  flood,  reeking 
with  the  reddish  l^rown  mud  brought  from  the  far  inland 
mountains,  along  low,  muddy  shores,  we  enter  the  sullen  waters 
of  the  Wu-sung,  with  our  destination  almost  in  sight.  Sixteen  miles 
below  Shanghai  (the  city  with  half  a  dozen  nicknames  which  remind  us  of 
its  importance  on  this  coast),  nearer  approach  for  large  steamers  was  cut 
otf  by  the  "  Heaven-sent  Barrier,"  so  these  ocean  "palaces"  have  to  send 
up  their  passengers  by  tenders,  and  their  cargoes  as  well.  This  natural 
boundary  was  made  more  impassable  by  the  French  in  1884  by  driving 
down  piles  and  sinking  old  junks  across  the  narrow  channel.  Though  a 
city  of  comparatively  modern  note,  Shanghai  is  really  an  old  tow^n,  and  this 
entrance  to  its  wharves  is  a  spot  of  especial  interest.  During  the  Chinese- 
Japanese  war  it  was  for  a  time  a  bone  of  contention,  until  British  war- 
ships stationed  themselves  across  the  mouth  of  the  Yangtse,  and  declared 
to  Japan  that  this  should  be  a  neutral  port.     The  Japanese  respected  this 


CHINA. 


279 


claim,  but  under  flags  that  professed  to  protect  neutral  interests  the 
Chinese  army  was  recruited,  while  Shanghai  became  a  base  of  supplies 
for  it.  The  result  of  the  war  once  decided,  England  coolly  withdrew  her 
protection  from  China,  though  still  showing  the  cold  shoulder  to  Japan. 
From  that  day  Great  Britain's  power  and  influence  in  the  Far  East 
lost  its  former  prestige. 

The  first  railway  in  China  was  built  along  the  river  from  Wu-sung  to 


WHAUF    AND    STOREHOUSES,    SIIAN(;il  \I. 


Shanghai  in  1876,  and  was  opened  with  great  enthusiasm  by  tlie  Chinese. 
But  a  rumble  of  dissatisfaction  soon  arose  from  tlie  toiling  people,  who 
believed  it  was  an  enemy  to  them,  and  it  needed  only  an  accident  on  tlie 
rails  to  cause  this  low  muttering  to  break  forth  into  an  uproar,  when  a 
riot  succeeded,  in  the  midst  of  which  the  rails  were  torn  up  and  the  engines 
sent  to  rust  on  the  beaches  of  Formosa.  This  road  was  rebuilt,  however, 
in  1898,  and  is  now  well  patronised  by  the  Chinese. 

While  Shanghai  has  few  special  attractions  for  the  foreign  visitor,  it  is 


a  city  of  great  importance  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  and  it  has  a  history  filled 
with  checkered  beginnings  and  diversified  ends.  In  the  making  of  this 
career  three  antagonistic  elements  have  entered,  almost  constantly  at 
variance  one  with  another.  The  first  of  this  trio  is  capricious  nature, 
that  has  contributed  a  large  part  toward  the  development  of  the  future 
emporium  of  the  Far  East.  The  second  important  part  has  been  played 
by  the  Chinese,  while  men  of  foreign  countries  have  stepped  in  and 
laid  the  foundation  of  the  progress  and  modern  development  of  the 
"Model  City." 

To  begin  with  history,  we  are  taken  back  to  a  period  when  the  old 
Wu-sung  Kiang  was  not  navigable,  and  to  a  time  when  a  thriving  trade- 
port  was  built  up  at  So-cllau  creek,  some  twenty  miles  away.  The  course 
of  the  river  then  was  not  fixed,  and  in  its  many  changes,  one  after  another, 
it  seemed  impossible  to  establish  a  permanent  settlement  in  that  vicinity. 
Still  trade  persisted  in  coming  that  way,  and  whether  the  floods  of  the 
Great  River  flowed  right  or  left,  kept  the  channel  of  last  season,  or  ploughed 
a  new  furrow  to  the  sea,  innumerable  vessels  continued  to  anchor  off  that 
shore.  Finally,  in  1250,  or  thereabouts,  the  old  waterway  of  the  Wu-sung 
having  become  filled  up  and  a  new  one  opened  that  had  become  navigable, 
a  settlement,  which  soon  became  the  port  for  all  ships  coming  that  way, 
was  founded  on  the  existing  site  of  Shanghai. 

The  majority  of  the  vessels  putting  in  here  being  richly  laden,  this 
port  became  the  objective  point  of  a  large  number  of  Japanese  vessels 
manned  by  men  who  were  outlaws  from  their  own  country,  and  had 
become  the  terror  of  the  seas.  Their  warlike  appearance  struck  terror 
to  the  hearts  of  the  timid  Chinese,  and  not  only  was  Shanghai  constantly 
menaced  by  these  corsairs,  but  the  entire  northern  coast  was  frequently 
ravaged  by  them,  until  desperate  means  of  protection  had  to  be  taken. 
In  1544  A.  D.,  during  the  Ming  dynasty,  a  wall  was  built  around  the 
city  as  a  bulwark  against  the  attacks  of  the  enemy.  Finding  even  then 
that  the  Japanese  were  likely  to  gain  a  foothold,  the  Cliinese  resorted 
to  intrigue  and  cunning  to  defeat  them.  While  the  great  wall  was  build- 
ing the  imperial  rulers  made  the  leaders  of  the  Japanese  such  tempting 
offers  of  wealth  and  office  that  two  of  them  consented  to  meet  with  the 
Chinese  leaders  to  discuss  the  terms.  As  soon  as  this  couple  were 
separated  from  their  followers  they  were  seized  and  put  to  death.     The 


CHINA. 


281 


loss  of  two  of  their  foremost  leaders  compelled  the  Japanese  to  abandon 
their  premeditated  attack.  But  the  Chinese  suffered  dearly  for  their 
cowardly  conduct.  The  Japanese  speedily  rallied  under  new  com- 
manders, and,  sweeping  down  upon  the  coast,  ravaged  the  country  for 
leagues  up  and  down  the  shore,  until  their  vengeance  was  glutted.  As 
they  sailed  away,  loaded  with  their  spoils,  the  Chinese  contented  them- 
selves by  making  furious  demonstrations  on  the  shore. 

Seventy  years  ago,  or  in  1831,  Doctor  Gutzlaff  was  the  first  foreigner 


VIEW    ON    THK    iMOAT,    NATIVE    QUARTER,    SHANGHAI. 

to  visit  the  place,  which  he  did  in  a  native  junk,  to  find  on  tlie  hanks  of 
the  Wu-sung  a  few  fishers'  huts  inhabited  by  some  semi-aquatic  people 
of  the  Fukien  province.  It  was  then  the  centre  of  a  considerable  coast- 
trade,  where  a  large  number  of  vessels  came  from  tlie  north  and  from  as 
far  south  as  the  Indian  Archipelago.  It  has  undergone,  however,  a 
wonderful  change  since  then.  The  walled  city,  comprising  an  area  of 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  lengtli  and  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width, 
contains,  with  a  tliickly  populated  suburb,  in  the  vicinity  of  125,000 
inhabitants.     The  view  from  the  river  is  indicative  of  bustle  and  business, 


while  off  the  shore-  are  representative  vessels  of  all  nations,  and  puffing 
along  the  waterway  are  numerous  steam  launches,  bearing  in,  from  huge 
ocean  steamers  moored  below,  mails,  despatches,  and  people  from  every 
quarter  of  the  globe.  Flitting  in  and  among  these  busy  craft  are  the 
innumerable  native  junks  and  boats,  looking  odd  and  grotesque  to 
the  newcomer. 

Just  above  this,  on  the  north,  and  separated  from  the  walled  town 
by  a  canal  connecting  with  the  creek,  is  another  Shanghai,  distinct  and 
to  a  certain  extent  independent  of  the  other,  "  The  Model  Settlement," 
as  it  is  known.  This  has  a  Chinese  population  of  50,000,  though 
dominated  by  a  foreign  element.  This  city,  like  St.  Petersburg,  the 
"Window  of  Russia,"  which  sprang  as  if  by  magic  from  the  marshes 
of  the  Neva  at  the  word  of  Peter  the  Great,  rose  in  a  little  over  half  a 
century  from  the  quagmire  of  the  Wu-sung  under  the  touch  of  the  plucky 
Englishmen  who  foresaw  the  wonderful  possibilities  of  the  situation,  and 
resembling  the  great  Muscovite  city  in  a  second  respect,  it  has  become 
the  Window  of  China. 

Although  builded  with  uncommon  rapidity,  it  bears  no  appearance  of 
having  been  slovenly  done.  The  streets  are  broad,  the  parks  numerous 
and  beautiful,  the  warehouses  commodious,  the  wharves  ample  for  the 
numerous  steam  launches  and  craft  of  all  nations  which  find  moorings 
here.  The  view,  as  one  advances  up  the  river,  becomes  grand  and 
magnificent,  enterprises  of  far-reaching  consequence  and  commercial 
dealings  with  the  outside  world  being  everywhere  apparent.  There  are 
big  storehouses,  busy  foundries,  sheds  and  spacious  structures  for  many 
purposes,  beyond  which  are  the  American  buildings  on  ground  conceded 
to  them,  while  fronting  the  river  are  the  European  offices  on  footing 
conceded  the  British. 

With  this  foundation  of  foreign  power  and  the  substantial  buildings 
reared  under  such  supervision,  we  find  Shanghai  the  most  cosmopolitan 
city  in  the  empire,  the  most  hopeful  point  of  interest  to  the  newcomer, 
and  an  object  lesson  to  the  Chinese  which  must  have  aroused  strong 
feelings  of  envy,  if  not  jealousy,  were  the  race  capable  of  realising  its 
true  situation.  Here  is  a  living  proof  of  what  can  be  done,  standing 
in  marked  juxtaposition  to  their  own  miserable  failure  that  runs  back 
into  the  centuries  of  the  past.     What  would  seem  to  be  more  provoking 


CHINA. 


283 


to  them  still,  is  the  fact  that  the  transformation  of  the  Model  Settlement 
has  been  accomplished  by  native  workmen  under  the  direction  of  shrewd 
foreigners,  showing  that  their  own  companions  are  capable  of  greater 
things  than  they  have  been  allowed  to  perform  under  their  own  masters. 
Education  in  China  does  not  educate,  nor  does  Chinese  civilisation  civilise. 
Shanghai,  the  city  of  modern  miracles,  has  a  foreign  population  of 
nearly  five  thousand,  larger  than  that  of  any  other  Oriental  city,  more 


TEA-HOL'SK     IN    SUANUItAI. 


than  two  thousand  being  English,  about  350  Americans,  with  two  and 
a  half  thousand  Europeans  of  different  nationalities.  The  character  and 
importance  of  this  city  is  explained  in  a  single  line,  when  it  is  said 
that  one-half  of  the  import  and  export  trade  of  the  emi)ire,  wliicli 
aggregated  in  1898  the  enormous  sum  of  four  Iniudrcd  inilliou  dollars, 
passes  in  and  out  of  this  \yindow  of  China. 

Nor  is  it  alone  on  its  commercial  importance  tliat  Shanghai  bases  its 
claim  for  attention.  Within  a  decade  it  has  become  a  manufacturing 
centre   which  justly  entitles   it    to    the    credit   of   being  considered    the 


"Manchester  of  the  Far  East."  The  biggest  cotton  factory  in  the 
Chinese  empire,  and  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  is  located  here. 
It  covers  an  area  of  sixty  acres,  and  gives  employment  to  six  thousand 
men,  women,  and  children.  It  has  two  gangs  of  operatives,  each  work- 
ing eleven  and  a  half  hours,  so  the  machinery  rests  only  one  hour  in 
twenty-four,  and  in  the  twenty-three  hours  that  it  is  employed  turns 
out  one  hundred  pieces  of  cloth  and  an  average  of  eighty  thousand 
pounds  of  cotton  yarn.  This  mill  is  built  upon  modern  plans  and 
equipped  with  improved  machinery,  while  controlled  by  Chinese  capital, 
worked  by  Chinese  labour,  and  fed  with  cotton  grown  on  Chinese  soil. 
This  mighty  mill,  the  oldest  in  the  empire,  is  owned  by  Li  Hung  Chang 
and  other  Chinese  capitalists,  and  is  supposed  to  represent  an  investment 
of  over  two  million  taels. 

It  is  hardly  surprising  to  be  told  that,  while  it  was  projected  by  a 
Chinaman,  and  is  to  all  intents  and  purposes  a  Chinese  investment,  an 
American  was  called  upon  to  assist  in  putting  the  mills  into  shape,  and 
that  he  is  still  general  supervisor  of  the  factory.  His  name  is  William 
Danforth,  and  he  is  a  native  of  the-  State  of  Massachusetts.  But  he  is 
the  only  American  connected  with  the  mill,  all  of  the  foremen  being 
Chinese  Mdio  understand  better  how  to  manage  the  native  help,  that 
have  proved  to  be  among  the  best  mill  operatives  in  the  world.  They 
learn  the  intricacies  of  the  work  quickly,  and  become  faithful  workmen. 
N^early  seventy-five  per  cent,  are  women  and  children,  whose  wages  aver- 
age only  about  fifteen  cents  a  day  in  our  money.  Strangers  to  high 
wages,  this  compensation  appears  to  make  them  contented,  though  they 
have  to  work  long  days.  Of  course  skilled  workmen  earn  more,  a  few 
as  much  as  a  dollar  a  day  in  gold.  Wages  have  been  higher  than  they 
are  now,  and  there^is  a  prospect  that  they  will  rise  again  as  soon  as  the 
present  warlike  disturbance  in  the  empire  is  settled. 

The  principal  supply  of  cotton  at  this  time  is  obtained  from  the  valley 
of  the  Yangtse  Kiang,  whose  claim  to  being  the  "  River  of  Tea "  is 
likely  to  be  supplanted  by  that  of  "  River  of  Cotton,"  since  this  impor- 
tant staple  can  be  raised  all  along  its  fertile  banks.  It  is  also  successfully 
cultivated  farther  south  ;  but  nowhere  does  the  product  afford  as  fine  a 
texture  of  goods  as  that  grown  in  the  southern  portion  of  the  United 
States  of  America. 


CHINA. 


285 


The  mill  just  described  is  not  lonely  in  Shanghai,  for  there  are  as  many 
as  seven  others,  all  running  on  a  paying  basis,  with  a  prospect  of  several 
more  in  the  near  future.  There  are  also  half  a  dozen  others  now  runnintr 
at  different  places  in  the  empire. 

If  the  enormous  advantage  of  these  busy  mills  to  China  seems  to  show 
a  hopeless  prospect  for  foreign  trade,  this  proves  to  be  an  illusion  when  we 
come  to  look  under  the  surface.     Even  these  great  factories  manufacture 


ENTRANCE  TO  CARTER  ROAD,  SHAXUHAI. 


only  one-sixteenth  of  the  cotton  goods  made  in  the  empire,  the  fifteen 
parts  being  the  product  of  home  work,  where  the  ginning,  spinning,  and 
weaving  goes  on  almost  constantly.  The  Chinese,  as  a  race,  clothe  them- 
selves in  cotton,  only  a  comparative  few  of  the  four  hundred  million  being 
able  to  wear  silk.  During  the  building  of  these  mills,  and  their  success- 
ful operation,  America  and  England  haw  been  steadily  increasing  their 
trade  year  by  year,  \\liile  India  and  Germany  have  made  a  beginning, 
and  Japan   has  bought  ground   upon  which  to   build  factories  in  order 


to  compete  with  all.  Still  the  demand  increases  faster  than  the  supply. 
When  the  vast  aggregate  of  the  population  is  taken  into  consideration, 
and,  what  is  of  even  greater  moment  as  regards  trade,  the  demand  for 
better  goods  as  the  gradual  uplifting  of  the  race,  now  barely  begun,  con- 
tinues, as  it  is  sure  to  do,  the  prospect  cannot  be  other  than  promising, 
especially  to  American  commerce. 

Not  only  is  Shanghai  a  city  of  spindles,  whose  constant  whir  reminds 
one  of  Yankee  enterprise,  but  it  has  other  manufactures,  and  its  dock- 
yards and  foundries  are  equally  places  of  bustle  and  activity,  which  show 
the  capacity  of  the  Chinese  in  whatever  direction  they  may  happen  to 
turn  their  ability  and  energy.  On  every  hand  are  skilled  engineers, 
carpenters,  painters,  decorators,  artisans,  and  men  proficient  in  almost 
every  craft.  At  Kiang-nan  arsenal,  situated  just  over  the  city  wall, 
the  making  of  implements  of  war  and  the  building  of  war-ships  reflect 
credit  upon  the  master  and  his  workmen.  Thus,  on  the  whole,  Shanghai 
is  a  city  of  bustle  and  business,  of  commerce  and  manufacture,  that  any 
Occidental  seaport  might  copy  with  advantage. 

While  possessing  no  great  attraction  for  the  majority  of  newcomers, 
it  is  not  wholly  without  interest,  and  has  many  incongruities,  at  least, 
which  cannot  fail  to  be  amusing  to  the  thoughtful  spectator.  What  must 
strike  the  foreigner  as  a  remarkable  reminiscence  of  the  days  of  idols  and 
paganism  is  the  presence,  in  the  midst  of  the  whir  and  rumble  of  modern 
machinery,  of  the  graven  god  of  good  fortune  standing  in  the  "  Temple 
of  the  City  of  God."  It  is  true  the  sovereignty  of  this  grotesque  image 
has  been  disputed  now  and  then,  and  the  carven  monarch  deposed ;  but 
each  time  he  has  been  restored  to  his  throne,  and  to-day  he  witnesses  his 
mimic  courts,  though  his  hold  upon  the  people  is  gradually  slipping  away. 
Near  this  god  are  several  lesser  deities,  supposed  to  guard  with  ceaseless 
watchfulness  the  huge  drum  towers  looming  up  over  the  pleasure-ground, 
which  are  mainly  used  now  as  lookouts  for  fire  and  the  approach  of 
enemies.  Occupying  the  most  desirable  ground  in  the  overcrowded  city 
a^re  buildings  consecrated  to  the  memory  of  Confucius,  the  rites  of  Tao,  and 
the  worship  of  Buddha. 

Old  Shanghai,  the  Shanghai  of  ancient  ethics,  has  the  fewest  attrac- 
tions possible  for  the  foreign  tourist,  unless  he  comes  with  a  desire 
to  leave  the  present  outside  its  tomb-like  gate,  and  to  enter  into  a  century 


CHINA. 


287 


when  America  was  a  wilderness,  inhabited  by  its  wild  tribes  of  men,  and 
the  Far  East  was  unknown  to  Europe.  Nothing  is  lacking  to  complete 
the  type  of  that  far-away  day.  He  will  walk  the  same  narrow,  crooked 
street,  meet  the  same  crushing  crowd  pushing  one  against  another  with 
that  familiarity  which  breeds  contempt,  behold  on  every  hand  the  char- 
acteristic, yellow-hued  people,  look  upon  the  stagnant  pools  of  water 
teeming  with  their  myriad  life,  the  dilapidated  dwellings,  the  gilded  shops 


B()Ar-MiAI>     1)1       i;i;il>-.     XKAK     S11.\N(.II  \1. 


of  trade,  the  gardens  of  peonies  and  chrysanthemums,  the  noisy  court- 
yards, tlie  crumbling  temples,  the  defaced  deities,  the  coffins  waiting  by  the 
hundreds  for  an  auspicious  day  of  burial,  —  all  this  and  nuich  more  which 
the  pen  shrinks  from  recording,  the  tongue  from  describing,  or  the  eye 
from  looking  upon. 

As  might  be  expected,  Shanghai  is  the  popular  resort  of  reformers  and 
progressive  leaders.  Here  are  printed  sheets  which  outrank  the  most  bitter 
political  paper  ever  published;  here  the  man  with  a  fancied  grievance. 


however  great  or  insignificant,  finds  opportunity  to  vent  his  spleen ;  here 
the  faint-hearted  philosopher  drones  in  his  sorrow  over  tlie  unhappy  fate 
of  his  race ;  here  the  retired  official,  grown  sleek  and  fat  both  in  purse 
and  person,  seeks  to  enjoy  his  ill-gotten  gains;  here  the  fugitive  from 
justice  hopes  to  find  the  protection  of  a  foreign  government;  here  the 
gambler  plies  his  craft  with  a  skill  worthy  of  a  better  cause ;  here  the 
mixed  votaries  of  fashion  centre,  attracted  by  a  common  magnet;  and 
along  the  Bubbling  Well  Road,  Shanghai's  fashionable  drive,  speed 
carriages  of  innumerable  description,  from  the  closed  brougham  of  the 
British  lord  down  to  the  rattletrap,  whose  only  boast  is  that  it  has  a 
wheel.  Here  is  where  the  two  extremes  of  the  Occident  and  the  Orient 
meet,  the  breathless  pace  of  the  New  World,  and  the  equally  breathless 
pace  of  the  Old. 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

FOOTPRINTS    IN    THE    8ANDS    OF    CENTURIES. 

WHILE  our  narrative  so  far  has  practically  covered,  if  with  a 
thin  veil  of  description,  that  portion  of  the  Chinese  empire 
which  holds  its  greatest  mineral  resources,  furnishes  its  surplus 
of  rice  and  tea,  grows  its  silks  and  cottons,  contains  its  mills  and  in- 
dustries, and  sends  forth  into  the  world  the  larger  portion  of  its  exports, 
there  remains  for  us  to  enter  a  vast  extent  of  territory  which  may  not 
be  inaptly  styled  the  battle-ground  of  the  races.  Within  the  past  year 
it  has  been  convulsed  by  one  of  the  worst  of  its  many  revolutions,  which 
has  proved  so  widespread  and  ominous  that  all  the  leading  nations  of  the 
earth  have  formed  an  alliance  to  meet  it,  while  the  gaze  of  the  entire 
world  has  been  fixed  upon  the  volcanic  centre  of  this  eruption,  the 
"  Purple  Forbidden  City."  Before  w^e  enter  into  a  closer  description  of 
these  scenes,  it  is  eminently  fitting  that  we  should  review  the  rise  and 
history  of  the  race  that  to-day,  if  shackled  by  ancient  methods  of  a 
clannish  government,  sets  at  defiance  the  united  powers  of  modern 
progress. 

Le  Comte,  the  ancient  historian,  wrote  over  two  hundred  years  ago : 
"  The  Chinese  are  so  ancient  in  the  world  that  it  fares  with  them,  as 
to  their  origin,  as  with  great  rivers  whose  source  can  scarce  be  dis- 
covered.'* There  has  been  no  discovery  to  gainsay  the  truth  of  this 
.statement.  The  scholars  of  China  maintain  that  the  history  of  the 
country,  as  written  by  its  historians,  affords  with  creditable  relial)ility 
the  story  of  the  empire  for  over  four  thousand  years.  Back  of  this  the 
traditions  of  the  people  bridge  the  void  reaching  into  the  misty. past  with 
accounts  of  rulers  and  founders  of  government,  whose  origin  belongs  to 
myth,  and  whose  very  existence  is  a  matter  of  douljt.  That  a  lasting 
influence  on  the  coming  generations  was  imparted  by  some  of  them 
is  evident  enough  to  justify  the  claim  that  the  unknown  leaders  were 
men  of  unusual  power  and  probit3^ 


If  the  origin  of  the  Chinese  has  not  been  solved,  it  is  certain  that  the 
country  which  they  were  destined  to  populate  and  govern  had  been 
previously  occupied  by  weaker  and  less  intelligent  races.  Remnants  of 
at  least  two  such  tribes  of  men  yet  linger  within  the  territory  from 
which  their  ancestors  faded  away  in  the  remote  past.  Their  usurpers 
are  believed  to  have  sprung  from  the  country  east  of  the  Caspian  Sea, 
to  have  crossed  the  Oxus,  either  voluntarily  or  under  compulsion,  and 
following  along  the  slopes  of  Teen  Shan,  to  have  headed  northward 
and  eventually  entered  the    valley  of   the   Hoang-ho.     Leaving  on  the 


GATE    OK    NAXKIN. 


way  small  colonies  to  till  the  fertile  plains  of  that  .productive  region, 
for  they  were  an  agricultural  people,  they  slowly  journeyed  south  and 
east,  until  a  vast  extent  of  territory  was  covered,  while  the  native  races' 
too  weak  and  scattered  to  cope  with  them  retreated  before  their  advance. 
These  newcomers  have  been  described  by  Mr.  Douglas  in  the  Encyclopedia 
Britannica  as  "  a  little  band  of  wanderers  roving  among  the  forests  of 
Shan-se  without  homes,  without  clothing,  without  fire  to  dress  their 
victuals,  and  subsisting  on  the  spoils  of  the  chase  eked  out  with  roots 
and  insects."  From  this  handful  of  nomads  have  come  the  most 
numerous  race,  and  the  earliest  founders  of  a  nation,  in  the  world,  the 
date  of  whose  beginning  no  historian  dares  to  fix. 


CHINA. 


^^91 


The  country  and  climate  were  favourable  to  good  crops,  though  not 
without  constant  toil,  and  they  must  have  been  a  hardy  and  robust  race. 
Their  advance  could  not  have  been  other  than  slow,  and  many  gener- 
ations came  and  went  as  the  pioneers  pushed  steadily  down  the  valleys, 
attaining  a  higher  civilisation  with  each  advance.  In  2300  b.  c.  they 
had  become  numerous  and  powerful  enough  to  form  a  kingdom  extend- 
ing from  beyond  Pekin  on  the  north  and  east  as  far  south  as  Canton. 
Their  capital  was  in  the  province  of  Shantung. 

The  race  seems  to  have  reached  a  height  of  considerable  glory,  but  a 


ENTRAl^CE    TO    GARDEN. 


couple  of  hundred  years  later  we  see  them  rising  to  destroy  a  dynasty 
whose  head  had  proved  itself  unfit  to  rule.  But  it  is  hardly  worth 
while  to  follow  such  meagre  accounts  of  those  times  as  have  been  pre- 
served, since  none  of  them  can  be  accepted  without  great  allowance. 
Hundreds  of  years  of  feudal  wars  followed,  the  inhabitants  of  one 
section  fighting  those  of  another,  until  from  out  of  the  darkness  of 
this  tumultuous  period  burst  two  lights  that  have  shone  all  along  the 
pathway  of  the  race  since  that  remote  day. 

The  first  of  these,  named  Laoutse,  was  born  604  B.  C.  Little  is  known 
concerning  him  save  that  he  gave  to  the  race  its  first  form  of  religious 
worship,  upon  which   the  Taouistic  Bible  is  founded ;    this  has  still  a 


respectable  following  in  China.  Laoutse  lived  in  humble  life  until  he 
was  over  a  hundred  years  of  age,  when  he  set  out  upon  a  long  journey 
toward  the  setting  sun.  Coming  to  a  pass  in  the  mountains,  he  gave 
into  the  keeping  of  the  watchman  on  duty  there  a  book  containing  the 
moral  teachings  which  the  people  were  quick  to  believe  were  written 
under  divine  inspiration.  Nothing  more  is  told  of  the  aged  author, 
except  that  he  vanished  from  the  sight  of  man  upon  pursuing  his  course 
along  the  lonely  pathway. 

The  second  and  greater  of  this  noted  couple  was  Confucius,  born 
551  B.  c,  who  as  a  child  was  noted  for  his  respect  to  older  people, 
his  gentleness  to  children,  and  his  remarkable  progress  in  all  pursuits 
that  he  came  to  follow.  Concerned  in  agricultural  matters  at  first,  he 
made  such  improvements  in  the  care  of  sheep  and  cattle,  and  the  treat- 
ment of  the  soil,  that  "  the  whole  face  of  the  country  changed,  and 
plenty  succeeded  poverty."  As  a  public  teacher  he  inspired  his  pupils 
with  a  knowledge  that  both  amazed  and  made  envious  all  other  pre- 
ceptors. He  became  a  student  in  music,  and  so  wonderful  was  his 
progress  that  soon,  from  studying  a  piece  of  composition,  he  could  de- 
scribe the  features  and  even  the  expression  of  the  eyes  of  the  composer. 
While  a  minister  to  the  emperor,  he  displayed  such  matchless  ability 
as  an  arbiter  and  statesman  that  he  lost  no  case  which  was  left  for 
him  to  settle. 

As  pleasant  as  must  have  been  the  praise  and  reward  that  he  received 
on  every  hand,  the  emperor  was  not  of  the  e:5?alted  nature  that  Confucius 
felt  ought  to  be  a  part  of  the  kingly  prerogatives  of  a  great  ruler,  and  his 
subjects  were  possessed  of  feeble  virtue.  So  he  became  a  traveller,  study- 
ing the  people  as  he  went  from  place  to  place,  often  teaching  them  the 
precepts  of  his  lofty  mind.  Many  illustrations  of  his  way  of  teaching  have 
been  preserved,  among  them  the  following :  Meeting  one  day  a  woman 
weeping  by  a  grave,  he  inquired  of  her  the  cause  of  her  grief,  when 
she  replied  that  her  husband  had  been  killed  there  by  a  tiger,  and  that 
her  husband's  father  had  also  met  a  similar  fate  there,  while  now  her  son 
had  shared  the  same  unhappy  lot.  "  Why  do  you  not  leave  the  place  ?  " 
asked  Confucius,  "  Because  there  is  here  no  oppressive  government,"  she 
answered.  Turning  to  his  companions,  the  sage  remarked  :  "  My  children, 
let  us  remember  this, — oppressive  government  is  more  cruel  than  a  tiger." 


CHINA. 


293 


Wherever  he  went  Confucius  secured  disciples,  and  the  people  imme- 
diately accepted  his  teachings,  which  were  not  philosophical  in  the  sense 
we  understand  them,  and  did  not  afford  a  regular  moral  code.  On  the 
other  hand,  leaving  futurity  to  provide  for  itself,  he  sought  to  impart 
to  his  followers  the  highest  precepts  of  personal  conduct  ever  taught  to 
man.  Professor  Morris  in  speaking  of  him  says :  "  Of  all  the  great  men 
who  have  lived  upon  the  earth,  conquerors,  writers,  inventors,  and  others, 
none  have  gained  so  wide  a  renown  as  this  quiet  Chinese  moral  teacher. 


CONSULTING    THE    STICKS    OF    FATK. 


whose  fame  has  reached  the  ears  of  more  millions  of  niaukind  than  that 
of  any  other  man  who  has  ever  lived.  To-day  his  descendants  form  the 
only  hereditary  nobility  in  China,  with  the  exception  of  those  of  his  great 
disciple  Mencius,  who  proved  a  worthy  successor  to  the  sage." 

Confucius  was  a  prolific  writer,  as  well  as  teacher,  and  nearly  all  that 
is  known  of  early  China  was  written  by  him.  He  wrote  the  "  Book  of 
History,"  the  "Book  of  Odes,"  the  "Book  of  Rites,"  and  the  "Spring 
and  Summer  Annals."  These  works  comprise  four  of  the  "  Nine 
Classics"  of  ancient  Chinese  literature.  Of  the  others,  the  first,  called 
the  "  Book  of  Changes,"  was  written  by  a  mystic  named  Wan  Wang 


over  six  hundred  years  before  Confucius  was  l)()rii.  Though  older  than 
the  works  of  the  immortal  sage,  and  still  held  in  high  veneration  by  the 
Chinese,  its  greater  merit  seems  to  lie  in  not  being  understood.  The 
remaining  four  of  the  nine  classics  were  written  by  students  or  disciples 
of  Confucius,  the  most  exalted  being  the  Mang  tsze,  or  the  "  Works  of 
Mencius,"  which  consist  of  the  sayings  and  doings  of  himself  and  his 
more  illustrious  master. 

Confucius,  whose    Chinese    name  was  Kung-fu-tse,   died   in   479    b.  c. 


CHINESE    OPIUM    SMOKERS. 


While  not  intended  to  frame  a  religious  creed,  his  books  and  those  of 
his  disciples  have  the  same  relation  to  the  Chinese  as  regards  the  forma- 
tion of  character  that  the  Bible  does  to  the  Christian.  Unfortunately, 
the  underlying  principle  of  Confucianism,  that  "  everything  ancient  must 
be  sacred,"  has  done  more  than  anything  else  to  retard  the  progress 
of  the  people  of  China.  The  four  Confucian  gospels  and  five  canons  of 
Classics  can  be  bought  for  a  few  hundred  cash,  or  about  fifty  cents,  and 
are  possessed  by  a  large  number. 

In  246  B.  c,  when  the  feudal  kinglets  seemed  on  the  eve  of  destroying 
each  other  with  their  bitter   quarrels,  the  Prince   of  Tsin  Chi  Hoang-ti 


CHINA.  295 

established  the  first  central  government,  with  himself  at  its  head  as  the 
"  First  Sovereign  Emperor  of  the  Tsins."  He  holds  a  romantic  position 
in  history,  and  many  strange  stories  cluster  about  his  memory,  some  of 
which  are  no  doubt  fictitious.  The  historians  did  n(jt  like  him,  for 
reasons  which  will  be  understood  later,  and  thus  attempted  to  belittle 
his  rank  and  work.  He  may  have  been  the  son  of  a  slave  woman,  as 
they  say,  and  he  may  have  banished  his  mother  for  offences  that  he 
could  not  overlook,  and  he  may  have  driven  his  reputed  father  to 
committing  suicide  for  plotting  against  him,  yet  at  the  age  of  thirteen 
he  took  up  the  sceptre  of  power  which  was  to  vanquish  many  an  older 
chieftain  and  to  found  upon  the  ruins  of  their  kingdoms  the  empire  that 
has  become  the  longest  lived  in  the  world. 

A  new  era  of  prosperity  and  power  dawned  for  the  black-haired  race 
that  had  drifted  so  far  from  their  native  land.  Roads  were  now  bnilt 
for  the  first  time  in  that  country  with  any  great  result,  and  long  canals 
were  cut  as  ways  of  transportation  for  goods  and  people.  Then  wars  with 
the  wild  hordes  on  the  north  follow^ed,  until  these  were  driven  back  into 
the  interior  of  Mongolia.  The  heroes  of  the  feudal  times  were  now  held 
up  for  imitation  and  worship,  and  from  this  era  began  that  fatal  love  for 
ancestors  and  ancient  methods  wdiich  has  resulted  in  the  decline  of  the 
race. 

During  this  time  the  stupendous  w^ork — perhaps  the  most  extraor- 
dinary ever  undertaken  by  the  hand  of  man  —  of  building  the  Great 
Wall  on  the  northern  border  of  China  was  done.  This  was  begun  in 
214  b.  c,  but  the  indefatigable  emperor  who  conceived  the  idea  and  started 
putting  it  in  operation  did  not  live  to  see  the  mighty  barrier  completed. 
It  is  no  wonder  he  died  before  it  was  finished,  for  it  extended  from  the 
mountains  of  the  west,  forming  the  barrier  against  the  Great  Desert,  to 
the  Yellow  Sea  on  the  east,  over  mountains  and  plains,  "  scaling  })recipices 
and  topping  the  craggy  hills  of  the  country,"  for  a  distance,  including  its 
crooks  and  rises,  of  over  fifteen  hundred  miles.  It  consists  of  two  walls 
of  brick  laid  upon  foundations  of  granite,  with  the  space  between  the 
outside  walls  filled  in  with  earth  and  stones.  It  is  twenty-five  feet  wide 
at  its  base,  and  fifteen  feet  at  the  top,  which  is  paved  with  bricks.  Its 
height  varies  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet,  while  frequent  towers  rise  several 
feet  above  this.     History  is  silent  in  regard  to  the  vast  army  of  patient 


toilers  who  must  have  spent  their  lives  in  the  construction  of  this  gigantic 
monument  to  their  faithful  service  more  than  to  the  wisdom  of  Hoangti 
the  Great,  as  he  is  justly  called. 

Besides  causing  this  great  wall  to  be  built,  and  overcoming  enemies 
which  must  have  disconcerted  a  less  watchful  and  powerful  ruler,  thus 
solidifying  the  feudal  states  into  one  grand  whole,  "  the  first  universal 
emperor  "  built  a  palace  at  his  capital,  then  called  Heen-yang,  at  present 
known  as   Sian-fu,  which  was  the  wonder  and  admiration  of   the    age. 


E?^."7'r-~  ■  T'vR  "^ 


THE    CITY    OF    NANKIN. 


It  was  planned  on  a  grand  scale,  the  audience-chamber  being  adorned  with 
twelve  great  statues  weighing  each  twelve  thousand  pounds,  and  all  made 
from  the  spoils  of  his  conquests.  Just  outside  the  city  was  another  palace 
larger  than  this,  which  was  capable  of  becoming  the  review  ground  for  ten 
thousand  men  drawn  up  in  battle-array.  This  was  known  as  the  Palace 
of  Delight. 

When  he  had  conquered  his  enemies,  and  had  seen  the  work  on  the 
Great  Wall  well  under  way,  he  set  about  dividing  his  empire  into  prov- 
inces, making  as  many  as  thirty-six.  He  then  set  forth  on  a  journey 
to  visit  these  divisions  of  his  government,  and  to  appoint  governors  and 


CHINA. 


297 


under-governors  for  them  all,  a  system  that  still  exists  in  China.  News 
coming  of  the  visit  of  a  man  of  so  great  importance  to  a  town,  in  those 
days,  caused  the  inhabitants  to  make  his  approach  easy  and  pleasant  by 
repairing  the  road  over  which  he  was  expected  to  come,  sometimes  even 
by  building  new  ways.  Hoangti  the  Great  understood  this  practice,  and, 
on  testing  the  other  roads  on  his  course,  he  found  them  to  be  in  the  most 
deplorable  state.     So  often  did  he  do  this  that  he  puzzled  and  frightened 


THE    SHANGHAI    CLUB,    Ol'ENED    1864. 


the  people  along  his  path,  who  feared  that  terrible  consequences  would 
come  to  them  on  account  of  what  might  be  construed  to  mean  scant 
courtesy  shown  to  their  emperor.  When  news  of  this  state  of  feeling 
reached  the  latter,  he  made  the  following  declaration,  which  places  liiui 
upon  record  as  the  greatest  benefactor  of  his  time : 

"  These  roads  that  have  been  built  especially  for  me  are  very  satisfactory, 
and  I  am  greatly  pleased  with  them.  But  it  is  not  just  that  I,  who  may 
never  come  this  way  again,  should  be  granted  this  convenience  alone, 
when  my  subjects  are  in   greater  need  of  good  roads  than  I.     Thus  1 


command  that  this  method  shall  cease,  and  that  good  roads  shall  be 
made  in  all  directions  throughout  the  empire,  when  all  the  people  will 
be  benefited." 

The  highest  results  of  his  life  came  from  this  act.  The  Great  Wall 
proved  no  barrier  against  the  wild  tribes  of  the  north,  who  scaled  it  like 
so  many  ants  fleeing  across  trails  of  sand  when  weaker  rulers  than  himself 
wielded  the  sceptre  of  Chinese  power,  but  a  grand  system  of  highways 


TIIK     ASTUi;     UUL&L:,    .-IIA.NU  UAl. 


was  inaugurated  all  over  that  portion  of  his  empire,  and  noble  roads  were 
made  to  cross  the  country  in  every  direction,  which  after  over  two 
thousand  years  still  remain  to  remind  us  of  Hoangti  the  Great. 

With  this  bright  picture  it  would  be  pleasant  to  leave  the  ancient 
conqueror  in  the  sunshine  of  his  glory.  But  a  shadow  darkens  the  lustre 
of  his  imperial  renown,  falling  farther  than  the  utmost  limit  of  his  good 
roads,  farther  than  the  last  stone  of  his  mighty  wall,  farther  than  flashed 
the  triumphs  of  his  invincible  sword ;  ay,  around  the  world.     This  was 


CHINA.  299 

the  act  which  the  literati  of  China  to  this  day  mourn,  and  must  always 
mourn,  "  the  burning  of  the  books."  In  order  to  do  justice  to  his  motives 
in  destroying  the  literature  of  the  times,  we  must  remember  that  many 
ceremonies  and  semi-religious  rites,  that  were  really  quite  useless  in  them- 
selves, were  held  to  be  necessary  by  the  educated  classes,  for  no  better 
reason  than  that  it  was  the  custom  fixed  by  their  "  noble  fathers." 
Hoangti  did  not  hesitate  to  abolish  many  of  these  foolish  customs,  until, 
in  his  contempt  for  sa  much  that  seemed  to  him  folly,  he  incensed  the 
literati,  who  demanded  of  him  his  reason.  This  awakened  his  anger,  and 
he  made  that  speech  which  rendered  the  scene  memorable : 

"  When  I  have  need  of  you  I  will  let  you  know  my  orders." 

From  this  time  the  men  of  letters  looked  upon  the  emperor  as  their 
enemy,  and  the  enemy  to  the  sacred  ties  of  the  past.  As  their  education 
consisted  of  a  worship  of  the  men  and  the  deeds  of  olden  times,  rather 
than  in  the  upbuilding  of  the  affairs  of  the  day,  they  looked  upon  this 
as  a  fatal  attack  upon  the  institutions  of  the  empire.  The  crisis  came 
during  an  occasion  which  the  emperor  had  intended  to  be  a  grand  assembly 
of  the  most  distinguished  men  of  the  empire,  includi^g  the  highest  of  the 
literati,  called  together  by  him  as  a  public  demonstration  of  rejoicing  over 
the  good  fortune  of  the  people,  and  incidentally,  no  doubt,  to  make  it  an 
ovation  to  his  own  greatness.  The  assembly  was  held  in  the  magnificent 
"  Palace  of  Conquest,"  glorified  with  its  array  of  treasures  taken  in  the 
course  of  the  triumphal  marches  of  the  army  of  Hoangti,  and  naturally 
the  trend  of  the  flamboyant  speeches  was  in  praise  of  him.  Finally,  one 
ardent  admirer,  in  a  fever  of  excitement,  declared  that  his  illustrious 
emperor  had  surpassed  the  greatest  of  the  renowned  heroes  of  even  the 
most  remote  past. 

This  shot  fell  like  a  bomb  in  the  midst  of  the  educated  portion  of  the 
assembly,  which  should  have  been  above  resorting  to  such  narrow-minded 
views,  and  one  of  them,  in  the  course  of  an  animated  speech,  in  which  he 
lauded  with  unstinted  praise  the  traditional  heroes  of  ancient  days,  and 
pronouticed  the  previous  speaker  "a  vile  flatterer  who  was  unfit  to 
sit  with  educated  men,  much  more  to  be  the  adviser  of  an  emperor," 
demanded  that  the  empire  should  be  restored  to  its  old  division  of 
feudal  principalities. 

This  aroused  the  emperor  so  that  he  could  speak  only  in  a  husky  voice, 


as  he  called  upon  his  prime  minister  to  uphold  the  glory  of  the  unity 
of  the  empire,  and  the  reason  why  it  sliould  be  supported  by  all  loyal 
subjects.  The  reply  of  the  statesman,  whose  name  was  Li-seh,  has 
come  down  in  history  as  an  illustration  of  the  spirit  which  led  to  the 
grave  act  that  reflects  so  darkly  on  the  fair  renown  of  Hoangti  the 
Great. 

"  Listening  to  what  has  been  said,  we  are  led  to  believe  that  the  men 
of  letters  are  really  men  of  ignorance  as  far  as  concerns  the  government 


NATIVE    JUNKS    MOORED    IN    RIVER    AT    SHANGHAI. 


of  a  country.  They  may  be  adepts  in  the  government  which  is  but  the 
speculation  in  a  phantom,  vanishing  upon  near  approach,  but  in  practical 
government  that  keeps  men  within  the  bounds  of  practical  duty  they  are 
weak.  With  all  their  pretence  of  knowledge,  they  show  themselves  densely 
ignorant.  If  they  can  repeat  by  heart  the  things  which  have  ha|)pened 
in  the  past,  even  the  most  remote  period,  they  are,  or  profess  to  be, 
strangely  ignorant  of  the  things  taking  place  under  their  own  eyes  in 
these  later  days  of  mighty  achievements.  Unable  to  understand  that 
the  rule  which  was  in  keeping  with  the  affairs  of  a  bygone  day  is  not 


CHINA. 


^01 


applicable  to  our  own,  they  would  apply  the  precepts  of  a  condition  that 
is  for  ever  past  to  the  situations  of  the  present,  forgetting  or,  what  is  worse, 
if  remembering,  ignoring  the  great  fundamental  truth  that  each  situation 
creates  its  own  governing  power,  and  that  what  applied  to  the  affairs 
of  yesterday,  though  it  be  written  in  books,  does  not  meet  the  require- 
ments of  the  present.  Most  illustrious  of  emperors,  these  men  of  books 
have  shown  you  that  it  is  time  to  close  their  mouths  if  you  value  the 


DINNER    PARTY    AT    A    MANDARIN  8    HOUSE. 


good   weal   of  your  empire,  and  that   it  behooves    you  to  place  a  check 
upon  their  presumptuous  impudence." 

The  emperor  was  in  hearty  accord  with  this  bold  utterance,  and,  not 
being  a  man  who  had  any  love  for  literature  himself,  he  forthwith  ordered 
that  all  the  books  of  the  empire,  excepting  those  that  treated  of  agri- 
culture, astronomy,  architecture,  and  medicine,  should  be  burned  !  No 
book  trdtiting  of  history  previous  to  his  own  reign  should  be  spared,  and 
not  even  the  works  of  the  great  Confucius  and  his  disciple  Mencius  were 
exempted  fron;i  this  crushing  blow  upon  the  enlightenment  of  tlie  centuries. 
Even  those  who  might  have  the  temerity  to  speak  of  the  Confucian  "  Book 
of   Odes "   and  "  Book  of  History  "  were  doomed  to  suffer  death.     Any 


person  in  the  empire  who  should  be  found  with  a  book  in  his  possession 
was  to  be  branded  and  sent  to  work  for  four  years  on  the  Great  Wall. 
Then  the  empire  was  ransacked  from  corner  to  corner  in  accordance  with 
the  rigid  command,  and  nothing  found  which  came  within  the  proscription 
was  spared.  Of  course  many  of  the  literati  murmured  against  this  act, 
and  460  who  dared  to  disobey  the  edict  were  buried  alive  in  a  huge  grave 
dug  for  them. 

"  Surely  now  no  man  can  say  that  another  was  greater  than  I,"  ex- 
claimed the  vain  monarch  in  the  exultation  of  his  vengeance  on  the  men 
of  letters.  But  he  seemed  to  ignore  the  possibility  that  there  might  be 
hiding-places  that  even  his  most  sharp-eyed  agents  could  not  penetrate, 
guarded  by  men  who  were  ready  to  sacrifice  their  lives  for  their  precious 
heritage,  in  the  form  of  books  and  manuscript ;  and  what  was  of  equal, 
if  not  greater  moment,  that  men  had  memories  which  no  one  could  search 
out,  and  which  were  to  become  well-springs  for  the  fount  of  literature, 
when  a  ruler  more  favourable  to  the  light  of  knowledge  should  seek  to 
restore  the  lost  treasures  of  history.  It  is  related  that  of  the  hundred 
sections  of  the  "  Book  of  History,"  twenty-eight  were  taken  down  in 
after  years  from  the  lips  of  an  old  blind  man  who  had  held  them  sacred 
in  his  memory.  One  more  was  added  by  a  young  girl  to  whom  it  had 
been  imparted.  The  others  were  found  nearly  a  hundred  years  later 
in  a  complete  set,  secreted  in  the  walls  of  the  house  once  occupied  by  the 
noble  author.  This  revengeful  and  foolish  act  of  an  otherwise  great  man 
explains  in  part  the  blank  in  the  earlier  history  of  the  empire  that  he 
founded.  Later  writers  gravely  declare  that  it  was  a  retributive  justice 
that  Hoangti  the  Great  left  no  son  capable  of  maintaining  the  government 
he  had  established,  and  the  dynasty  of  the  Tsin  swdftly  vanished,  leaving 
his  name  standing  alone  on  the  very  borderland  of  written  history. 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

THE  ERA  OF  CHINESE  CHIVALRY. 

THE  successor  of  Hoangti  the  Great  was  his  son,  who  after  a  brief 
reign,  ended  by  assassination,  was  succeeded  by  a  grandson.  The 
latter,  after  a  still  more  brief  reign  of  six  weeks,  made  way  hy 
suicide  for  the  accession  of  a  famous  general,  who,  taking  the  title  of 
Kaotsou,  the  "Lofty  and  August  Emperor,"  named  his  dynasty  after 
his  native  province,  Han.  More  nearly  than  might  have  been  expected 
he  merited  the  title  he  had  assumed,  and  was  on  the  whole  a  sagacious 
and  generous  ruler.  He  immediately  granted  full  amnesty  to  those 
who  had  opposed  his  taking  the  throne,  sent  out  messages  of  condolence 
to  the  people  who  had  suffered  by  the  war  which  had  placed  him  in 
his  high  position,  carried  on  to  completion  the  work  on  the  Great  Wall, 
and,  what  was  of  far  greater  importance  in  the  minds  of  the  literati, 
did  all  in  his  power  toward  restoring  the  literature  lost  by  the  foolish 
pride  of  his  most  illustrious  predecessor. 

Kaotsou  selected  the  ancient  city  now  known  as  Honan  for  his  capital, 
but  soon  changed  it  to  Singan-fu,  in  the  western  province  of  Shensi. 
The  people  wondered  at  this  movement,  which  seemed  to  show  an  utter 
lack  of  good  sense,  since  the  new  capital  was  fairly  environed  by  moun- 
tains so  that  it  was  inaccessible  except  on  one  side.  But  the  fine  hand 
of  the  emperor  was  soon  shown,  when  it  looked  as  though  he  intended 
to  eclipse  the  fame  of  Hoangti  as  a  road-maker.  An  army  of  one  hundred 
thousand  road-builders  was  set  to  work  cutting  down  the  mountains, 
ami  filling  the  valleys  with  the  debris.  Where  there  were  rivers  and 
deep  gullies  that  could  not  be  filled,  suspension  bridges,  called  by  the 
amazed  people  "  flying  bridges,"  were  thrown  across  the  chasm,  and  made 
wide  enough  and  strong  enough  to  bear  a  body  of  horsemen  riding  over 
four  abreast.  High  balustrades  were  built  along  the  sides,  and  altogether 
they  were  fine  pieces  of  engineering.  One  of  these  structures,  nearly 
five  hundred   feet  long,  and  spanning  a  ravine  of  great  depth,  is  still 


to  be  seen  in  fairly  good  repair,  though  built  almost  two  thousand  years 
before  anything  of  the  kind  was  attempted  in  Europe.  In  this  way 
Kaotsou  made  an  entrance  into  his  new  capital  easy,  while  he  made 
travelling  more  inviting  by  establishing  post-houses  and  caravansaries 
at  regular  intervals,  so  that  he  rivalled  Hoangti  at  his  pet  scheme. 
Everything  about  his  capital  was  in  keeping  with  the  work  outside. 
He  built  a  palace  more  magnificent  than  had  ever  been  seen  before  by 
the  Chinese ;  he  called  around  him  the  wisest  men  of  his  day  as  advisers ; 


NANKIN,    FROM    THE    PORCELAIN    TOWER. 

his  court  became  the  strongest  that  had  ever  listened  to  the  appeals  of 
emperor  or  his  subjects;  finally,  when  accused  of  having  slighted  his 
father  in  the  dispensation  of  his  bounties,  he  made  him  his  "  Lesser 
Emperor."  Where  he  had  been  obeyed  and  feared  before  he  was  loved 
and  respected  now,  for  the  highest  evidence  of  true  nobility  of  character 
is  kindness  and  veneration  for  one's  parent. 

On  the  whole,  that  was  a  remarkable  period  in  Chinese  civilisation.  It 
is  noted  as  the  age  of  the  Great  Wall,  of  imperial  roads,  of  grand  canals, 
of  the  restoration  of  literature,  and  of  great  public  improvements.  But 
with  all  his  wisdom,  Kaotsou  overrated  his  military  ability,  and  afterward 


CHINA.  305 

suffered  a  humiliating  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the  desert  warriors  of  the 
north,  led  by  one  called  Mehe.  In  his  sore  strait  the  emperor  sent  to 
the  Tartar  chief  the  most  beautiful  maiden  to  be  found,  as  a  sort  of  peace- 
offering.  She  went  willingly,  and  proved  herself  so  captivating  that 
Kaotsou  was  allowed  to  return  to  his  capital,  while  the  desert  barbarian 
went  back  to  his  haunts  satisfied  with  his  prize  and  plunder.  But  this 
was  only  the  beginning  of  the  end  of  the  humiliation  and  helplessness 
which  had  overtaken  the  once  proud  emperor.  The  Tartars  soon  rallied 
again ;  other  bribes  had  to  be  offered ;  and,  finally,  worn  out  with  anxiety 
and  ill-fortune,  Kaotsou  died  surrounded  by  plotting  men  and  women 
scheming  to  secure  the  power  swiftly  slipping  away  from  him.  But  if  his 
end  was  shorn  of  some  of  the  glory  rightly  belonging  to  his  reign,  he  had 
established  a  dynasty  which  was  destined  to  live  for  centuries,  and  in 
this  respect  at  least  was  more  successful  than  Hoangti  the  Great  had 
been. 

This  was  about  two  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era,  and  the 
next  act  in  the  drama  of  rulers  was  a  most  disgraceful  one,  made  the 
more  so  by  the  fact  that  the  actor  was  a  woman.  She  who  became 
the  real  empress  of  the  realm,  though  she  ruled  for  a  time  through  her 
weak  son,  was  one  of  the  wives  of  Kaotsou,  wdio  reached  that  high  posi- 
tion by  poisoning  another  wife  and  her  son,  who  had  been  chosen  as  the 
emperor's  successor.  Nor  did  this  female  fiend  end  her  horrible  work 
here,  but  she  carried  matters  with  such  a  high  hand  that  she  finally  fell 
dead  in  the  hall  made  notorious  by  her  infamous  deeds  in  a  spasm  of 
horror  and  remorse. 

A  checkered  history  followed,  a  history  written  all  over  with  maddening 
attacks  from  the  northern  barbarians,  who  were  far  better  warriors  than 
the  Chinese.  Time  and  again  a  non-combative  race  was  obliged  to  rise 
and  defend  itself  from  foreign  invasion ;  time  and  again  it  met  with 
complete  disaster ;  but  each  time,  like  the  fabled  phenix,  it  rose  from 
the  ashes  of  defeat  to  build  anew  stronger  and  more  dazzling  empires. 

One  of  the  periods  of  success  was  fifty  years  of  continual  warfare,  from 
150  to  100  years  before  the  Christian  era,  when  the  great  provinces 
of  Fukien,  Yunnan,  and  Szechuan  were  added  to  the  empire.  The 
Chinese  leader  during  this  stormy  reign  was  Vouti,  whose  character  has 
been  illustrated  by  the  following  story :  In  northwestern  China  a  whole 


race  of  people  was  so  utterly  routed  by  the  Tartars  that  the  handful  that 
managed  to  escape  fled  into  the  distant  west.  In  order  to  succour  them, 
Vouti  sent  one  of  his  most  trusted  comrades  to  find  and  bring  back  the 
unfortunate  fugitives  to  the  land  the^^  had  lost,  promising  to  defend  them 
to  the  last,  and  instructing  his  faithful  messenger  to  search  Asia  from 
corner  to  corner  until  he  found  them. 

Taking  one  hundred  valiant  companions,  he  set  forth  on  his  knightly 


i-AKlHK.N    JAK    ^Hul'    ANO    BLACKSMITH    SHOP,    SHANGHAI. 


errand,  to  be  gone  nearly  twenty  years,  one-half  of  which  was  passed  in 
captivity  at  the  hands  of  the  Tartars,  and  of  the  lieroic  band  only  two  be- 
sides Chang  Kin,  the  leader,  lived  to  return.  They  had  eventually  found 
the  lost  tribe,  but  so  safely  sheltered  in  their  new  land  that  they  declined 
to  come  back.  Centuries  later  the  descendants  of  this  handful  of  fugitives, 
with  some  of  their  ancient  enemies,  formed  the  terrible  phalanx  of  the 
Huns,  who  deluged  Russia  in  blood,  and  carried  terror  to  the  heart  of 
Rome.     They  became  the  founders  of  the  kingdom  of  Hungary. 


CHINA. 


307 


Chang  Kin  made  other  explorations  into  distant  nations  in  the  continent, 
gaining  much  valuable  information  of  other  races  and  governments,  so 
he  may  be  justly  considered  to  be  the  pioneer  of  explorers  in  the  Far  East. 
He  wrote  out  descriptions  of  the  countries  he  had  visited,  and  was  greatly 
honoured  by  the  emperor  and  his  subjects. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  years  before  the  Cliristian  era  the  Chinese 
proved  powerful  enough  to  drive  the  warlike  Hiung-Nus  tribe  from  their 
soil,  pursuing  the  routed  enemy  over  tlie  same  track  their  ancestors  had 


TEMPLE  OF  BTDDHA,  CANTON. 

followed  to  the  very  shore  of  the  Caspian  Sea.  But  the  end  of  the  Han 
dynasty  was  near,  and  amid  tlie  hollow  mocker}-  of  keeping  \\\)nn  the 
throne  a  ruler  too  young  and  helpless  to  reign,  a  usurper  named  Wang 
Mang  founded  the  dynasty  of  Sin  in  the  3'ear  7  a.  d.  The  name  of  this 
sovereignty  appears  to  have  been  very  appropriate,  according  to  our  mean- 
ing of  the  term,  and  the  nominal  head,  who  had  begun  his  career  l)y  rob- 
bing the  imperial  tombs  to  obtain  money,  ended  with  his  death  at  the 
hands  of  the  aroused  people,  while  he  was  trying  to  gain  courage  to  end 
his  own  life. 

During  this  stirring  epoch  originated  the  ''  Order  of  the  Crimson  Eye- 


brows,"  which  first  became  famous  as  the  defender  of  a  deposed  emperor, 
and  afterward  as  an  outlawed  league  at  war  with  every  honest  man.  The 
odd  name  was  given  from  the  fact  that  every  member  of  the  band,  which 
at  the  height  of  its  infamous  career  as  a  set  of  plunderers  and  murderers 
numbered  over  two  hundred  thousand  men,  had  his  eyebrows  painted  a 
deep  red,  indicative  of  his  determination  that  he  was  ready  to  fight  to 
death  to  gain  his  object.  At  first  to  be  one  of  these  was  considered  to  be 
on  "  the  road  to  safety,"  but  later  this  became  altered  to  the  "  road  of 
despair,"  when  the  emperor  had  raised  an  army  large  enough  to  destroy 
the  scourge  of  the  people. 

In  the  latter  half  of  the  first  century  of  the  Christian  era  appears 
upon  the  historic  page  of  Cathay  the  name  of  Panchau,  who  can  justly 
claim  to  have  been  the  Alexander  of  the  empire,  wdth  the  ennobling 
trait  of  having  attempted  his  conquests  for  the  purpose  of  extending 
the  trade  and  enlightenment  of  his  native  land  without  seeking  personal 
aggrandisement.  After  a  most  successful  career  at  home  he  started 
westward  with  his  large  army,  intending  to  penetrate  into  Europe,  of 
which  only  vague  accounts  had  reached  him.  His  usual  good  fortune 
kept  pace  with  him,  as  he  conquered  tribe  after  tribe  of  warlike  people, 
and,  what  was  of  equal  demand  upon  his  resources,  overcame  the  perils 
and  hardships  of  crossing  desert  plains,  climbing  rugged  mountains,  and 
fording  mighty  rivers,  until  he  had  encamped  his  army  on  the  shore 
of  the  Caspian  or  "  Northern  Sea,"  as  it  w^as  known  to  the  Chinese.  At 
this  point  in  his  hazardous  march  the  dangers  and  barrenness  of  the 
unknown  country  beyond  were  so  pictured  to  him  by  those  who  had 
been  there  that  he  wisely  concluded  not  to  expose  his  valiant  followers 
to  further  exposure  for  what  seemed  so  vain  a  quest,  and  returned  to 
Cathay,  where  he  was  received  with  almost  imperial  honours.  He  died 
renowned  as  the  greatest  general  of  his  race,  and  from  his  death  is  dated 
the  downfall  of  the  Han  dynasty,  which  had  governed  Cathay  so  well 
for  450  years,  ending  in  220  a.  d. 

During  the  reign  of  Mingti,  from  58  to  76  a.d..  Buddhism  was  intro- 
duced into  China,  and  received  imperial  favour,  the  emperor  asserting 
that  he  had  been  prompted  to  send  envoys  to  India  for  the  purpose  of 
studying  the  religion.  Under  the  especial  patronage  of  the  emperor 
the  new  doctrine  made  rapid  headway,  until  it  became  the  acknowledged 


CHINA 


309 


religion  of  the  people,  though  never  entirely  supplanting  Taoism,  as 
it  failed  to  Shintoism  in  Japan.  It  is  not  infrequent  that  a  man  is 
buried  under  the  forms  of  both  religions,  that  no  mistake  may  be  made. 

It  is  to  the  credit  of  the  Han  dynasty  that  no  line  of  sovereignty 
has  ever  attained  a  higher  place  in  the  esteem  of  the  people,  and  China, 
unlike  Japan,  whose  present  emperor  is  a  descendant  of  the  first  imperial 
ruler,  has  had  numerous  ruling  families.     Durino;  the  long;  reijrn  of  the 


SCKXKUY    AT    THE     ISLAND    OF    I'OOTOO. 


Hans,  which  was  often  disturbed  by  internal  dissensions  as  well  as  by 
foreign  invasion,  the  unity  of  tiie  empire  was  accomplished,  the  territory 
was  increased  by  two  provinces,  Yunnan  and  Leaoutung,  Cochin  Cliina 
became  a  vassal  state  so  that  the  dominion  of  the  emperor  readied  as 
far  as  the  Pamir,  trade  was  vastly  increased  at  home  and  ahroad,  tlie 
wealth  of  the  empire  was  greatly  augmented,  and  the  public  works 
previously  begun  were  carried  on  to  successful  completion.  Even  to-day 
the  Chinese  claim  no  greater  honour  than  to  be  known  as  sons  of 
Han. 


The  end  of  the  Han  dynasty  was  followed  by  the  long  and  trying 
civil  "  War  of  the  Three  Kingdoms,"  which  produced  a  general  named 
Kuan-Chan,  or  "  Wu-ti  the  Warrior  King."  A  temple  erected  to  his 
memory  still  stands  on  the  southern  branch  of  the  West  River,  where 
his  spirit  is  worshipped  next  to  that  of  Confucius. 

The  different  provinces  being  completely  at  odds  with  each  other,  out- 
side enemies  on 
every  hand  im- 
proved the  oppor- 
tunity to  plunder 
and  capture  whom- 
ever they  could.  In 
the  south,  a  reck- 
less pirate  by  the 
name  of  Sunghen 
carried  terror  along 
the  great  rivers  by 
his  merciless  raids 
over  the  surround- 
ing country.  In 
the  north,  the  Si- 
berian nomads,  the 
Weis,  overran  the 
adjoining  portion  of 
China  in  the  fourth 
and  fifth  centuries, 
to  establish  an  em- 
pire there  which 
defied  all  attempts 
to  uproot  them  until  the  Tang  dynasty  came  upon  the  warlike  stage 
in  618  A.  D. 

Before  treating  of  this  powerful  sovereignty  it  may  be  well  to  glance 
at  the  intervening  families  of  rulers,  one  of  whom  at  least  deserves 
special  mention.  Few  emperors  can  claim  the  credit  of  rising  from  a 
shoemaker's  bench  to  a  throne,  but  this  was  the  case  of  the  poor  boy 
by  the  name  of  Lieouyu,  who  was  left  to  the  care  of  strangers  at  a 


A    RUINED    PAGODA. 


CHINA.  311 

tender  age.  But  he  soon  showed  himself  above  his  humble  friends,  and, 
ambitious  to  make  his  mark  in  the  world,  he  entered  the  army,  the  most 
promising  field  in  which  to  accomplish  his  aims.  As  a  mere  youth 
he  showed  great  skill  in  military  affairs,  and  when  only  a  young  man 
he  came  into  command  of  an  army.  Under  his  energetic  and  skilful 
leadership  victory  after  victory  was  achieved  wherever  it  went,  until 
only  rebellious  princes  and  disloyal  leaders  to  the  north  of  Hoang-ho 
defied  him.  On  the  border  of  the  great  province  of  Wei,  which  he  must 
cross  to  reach  an  enemy  beyond,  he  was  denied  the  privilege  of  continuing 
farther  by  the  ruling  prince  there. 

Angered  but  not  deterred  by  this,  he  immediately  crossed  the  turbid 
river,  and,  routing  the  army  of  this  disloyal  general,  marched  against 
the  capital  of  the  "Prince  of  Chin,  another  rebellious  subject.  Here  he 
was  forced  to  entrust  his  important  mission  to  one  of  his  generals  named 
Wangchinon.  Succeeding  events  showed  that  he  had  not  misjudged  his 
man.  Conducting  his  army  on  shipboard  until  he  was  obliged  to  leave 
the  water,  he  displayed  the  spirit  and  iron  will  of  a  Cortes  by  ordering 
that  the  vessels  should  be  sent  adrift,  while  he  delivered  the  following 
address  to  his  men : 

"  Behold,  soldiers !  the  rapid  waters  of  the  Weiho  carry  from  us  the 
ships  that  have  borne  us  hither,  so  that  we  have  no  means  of  returning, 
while  we  have  neither  supplies  nor  provisions.  Soldiers  of  the  empire, 
you  have  no  choice  but  to  proceed  against  the  enemy.  Let  us  overpower 
them,  and  we  shall  regain  a  hundredfold  more  than  we  have  lost,  while 
covering  ourselves  with  glory.  If  we  fail  to  triumph  over  our  enemy 
there  will  be  no  escape  except  in  death.  Therefore  our  duty  is  plain. 
Let  us  conquer  or  die  —  that  is  our  destiny.  Now  prepare  to  march 
against  the  enemy." 

Little  wonder  if  such  a  general  led  to  victory,  and  smaller  wonder 
if  the  master  of  such  men  should  eventually  come  within  reach  of  the 
throne  upon  which  a  weak  emperor  sat.  Lieou3'u,  seeing  that  it  was 
time  for  him  to  reap  the  harvest  he  had  sown  with  his  sword,  ordered 
the  ruler  to  step  aside  for  him,  which  the  other  did.  This  was  in  420  x.  d., 
and  the  new  emperor  who  had  once  been  a  shoemaker  assumed  the  name 
of  the  renowned  Kaotsou,  calling  his  dynasty  the  Song,  he  having  become 
known  as   Prince  of  Song.     Already  an  old   man,   he   ruled   only   three 


years,  but  he  displayed  as  great  sagacity  and  enterprise  during  his  short 
term  of  civil  power  as  he  had  during  his  long  military  career. 

The  two  hundred  years  following  the  ascendency  of  the  Song  dynasty 
furnish  little  for  the  historian  to  dilate  upon.  During  that  interval 
almost  constant  contention  went  on.  At  the  end  of  fifty-nine  years 
the  line  of  rulers  founded  by  the  shoemaker-emperor  fell  before  the 
Tsi,    that   in  502  gave  way  to  the    Leang   dynasty,  the    last    in   turn 


SHOWROOM    OF    A    LANTERN    MERCHANT. 


succeeded  in  a  little  over  half  a  century  by  the  Soui,  followed  by  the 
Tang  sovereignty  already  mentioned. 

The  Soui  dynasty  cannot  in  justice  be  dismissed  without  recording  the 
splendid  achievements  of  its  most  prominent  representative.  Emperor 
Yangti  (605  to  617),  who  changed  the  capital  from  Nankin  back  to  an- 
cient Honan,  then  known  as  Loyang,  where  it  had  been  located  under 
Kaotsou  T.  He  sought  to  make  this  the  most  beautiful  and  powerful  city 
in  the  world,  and  his  palace  the  grandest  ever  built.  To  accomplish  his 
purpose  he  drafted  into  his  service  more  than  two  million  workmen  and 
embellishers.  Under  their  skilful  touches  Honan  shone  forth  a  dream  of 
ideal  magnificence,  and  for  many  years  the  highest  tribute  that  could  be 


CHINA. 


313 


paid  an  object  of  especial  beauty  was  a  comparison  to  Yangti's  imperial 
city.  He  caused  fifty  thousand  merchants  to  take  up  their  abode  there, 
that  he  might  have  it  a  place  of  business  as  well  as  beauty. 

This  reflects  little  credit  on  a  monarch  who  was  willing  to  attempt  so 
much  to  satisfy  a  vain  pride.  The  work  which  has  placed  his  name  among 
the  benefactors  of  China  was  the  building  of  the  great  systems  of  artificial 
waterways.  During  his  brief  reign  of  thirteen  years  he  completed  over 
five  thousand  miles  of  canals.     To  perform  this  gigantic  undertaking,  he 


CHINESE    MAIiKlA(;E    rKU(JE.S>10N. 


called  from  each  family  in  the  empire  one  able-bodied  man.  besides  putting 
his  large  army  at  work  in  the  ditches.  The  greatest  of  these  ways  of  trans- 
portation, though  some  of  the  others  were  extensive,  was  the  Grand  Canal 
from  the  Yangtse  to  the  Hoang-ho,  a  distance  of  over  three  hundred  miles. 
It  has  a  width  of  120  feet,  and  is  lined  with  solid  stone.  Along  the  banks 
are  rows  of  elms  and  willows,  so  that  its  course  can  be  distinguished  for 
a  long  distance.  Fate  was  cruel  to  China  when  she  allowed  him  to  be 
assassinated  in  the  heyday  of  his  reign.  His  son  and  successor  met  the 
same  untimely  end  before  he  had  ruled  a  year.  He  closed  the  rule  of  this 
dynasty. 


The  most  important  figure  in  the  succeeding  dynasty,  the  Tang,  was  the 
second  in  the  line  of  power,  who  holds  in  history  the  undisputed  title  of 
Taitsong  the  Great.  When  his  father,  taking  the  name  of  Kaotsou,  already 
famous  in  Chinese  history,  ascended  the  throne,  he  placed  his  second  son, 
Lichimin,  at  the  head  of  the  army.  The  latter  seems  to  have  quickly 
shown  remarkable  military  genius,  and  what  stood  him  in  even  greater 
stead,  uncommon  bravery.  He  always  rode  at  the  head  of  his  favourite 
regiment  of  cuirassiers,  which  was  rendered  conspicuous  by  its  suits  made 
of  the  skin  of  the  black  tiger,  and  it  is  said  was  never  defeated.  At 
any  rate,  after  four  years  of  warfare,  he  was  able  to  say  to  his  imperial 
father  that  he  not  only  had  rid  the  homeland  of  its  numerous  enemies, 
but  that  he  had  effectually  cleared  its  borders  of  all  foes.  His  valorous 
deeds  upon  every  tongue,  he  was  received  on  his  return  with  all  the 
grand  display  and  pomp  that  Rome  in  the  zenith  of  her  glory  was  proud 
to  shower  upon  her  heroes. 

Mounted  upon  his  fiery  steed,  Lichimin  rode  at  the  head  of  his  battle- 
scarred  veterans  in  tiger  skins,  —  his  Old  Guard  that  had  never  failed  him, 
—  wearing  a  breastplate  of  gold.  Behind  this  favourite  regiment  wound 
into  the  city  forty  thousand  cuirassiers,  bearing  in  their  midst  some  of  the 
captives  taken  in  recent  battles,  the  most  conspicuous  of  whom  was  the 
King  of  the  Tartars.  The  conqueror  led  his  train  to  the  temple  of  his 
ancestors,  where  he  caused  to  be  repeated  the  story  of  his  triumphs,  while 
he  returned  thanks  for  his  victories.  It  was  the  custom  among  the  Chinese 
in  those  days  to  put  to  death  the  captives  taken  in  war,  and  confiscate 
their  property.  Kaotsou  did  order  the  torch  to  be  applied  to  the  grand 
palace  reared  by  his  predecessor,  declaring,  as  the  costly  work  vanished  in 
the  flames,  that  it  was  folly  to  allow  such  a  monument  of  vanity  to  stand 
as  a  mark  of  man's  weakness.  But  he  spared  the  lives  of  the  captive 
train,  and,  at  the  banquet  given  in  honour  of  his  renowned  son,  granted 
general  amnesty  and  reduced  the  taxes  of  the  people,  so  all  might  have 
a  share  in  the  imperial  happiness. 

It  soon  appeared  that  the  sunshine  of  this  proud  day  for  the  conqueror 
was  darkened  by  clouds  of  conspiracy  on  the  part  of  jealous  brothers.  This 
intrigue  was  discovered,  and  the  plotters  put  to  death.  Then  Kaotsou,  feel- 
ing the  weight  of  seventy  years,  abdicated  in  favour  of  his  illustrious  son, 
who,  upon  ascending  the  throne,  assumed  the  name  of  Taitsong.     Kaotsou 


CHINA. 


315 


had  been  a  worthy  ruler,  but  his  fame  was  lost  in  the  glory  of  his  succes- 
sor. One  of  his  son's  greatest  acts  was  to  raise  and  train  a  standing  army 
which  could  be  relied  upon  in  the  inevitable  wars  against  the  barbarians 
of  the  north.  "  Before  this  time,"  says  Boulger,  the  historian  of  China, 
*'  Chinese  armies  had  been  little  better  than  a  rude  militia,  and  the  military 
knowledge  of  the  officers  could  only  be  described  as  contemptible.  The 
soldiers  were,  for  the  most  part,  peasants  who  knew  nothing  of  discipline, 
and  into  whose  hands  weapons  were  put  for  the  first  time  on  the  eve  of  a 
war.     They  were  not  of  a  martial  temperament,  and  they  went  unwillingly 


to  a  campaign  ;  and  against  such  active  opponents  as  the  Tartars  they 
would  only  engage  when  superiority  of  numbers  promised  success.  They 
were  easily  seized  with  a  panic,  and  the  celerity  and  dash  of  Chinese  troops 
only  became  perceptible  when  their  backs  were  turned  to  the  foe.  So  evi- 
dent had  been  these  faults,  that  more  than  one  emperor  had  endeavoured 
to  recruit  from  among  the  Tartar  tribes,  and  to  oppose  the  national  enemy 
with  troops  not  less  brave  or  active  than  themselves.  The  employment  of 
mercenaries,  however,  is  always  only  half  a  remedy,  and  not  free  from 
aggravating  the  evil  it  is  intended  to  cure.  But  Taitsong  did  not  attempt 
any  such  palliation ;  he  went  to  the  root  of  the  question,  and  determined 


to  have  a  trained  and  efficient  army  of  his  own.  He  raised  a  standing 
army  of  nine  hundred  thousand  men,  which  he  divided  into  three  equal 
classes  of  regiments,  one  containing  1,200  men,  another  one  thousand,  and 
the  third  eight  hundred.  The  total  number  of  regiments  was  895,  of  which 
634  were  recruited  for  home  service  and  261  for  foreign.  By  this  plan  he 
obtained  the  assured  services  of  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  trained 
troops  for  operations  beyond  the  frontier.     Taitsong  also  improved  the 


EURASIAN    CHILDREN    FROM    SCHOOL    AT    SHANGHAI. 


weapons  and  armament  of  his  soldiers.  He  lengthened  the  pike  and  sup- 
plied a  stronger  bow.  Many  of  his  troo23s  wore  armour,  and  relied  on  the 
cooperation  of  his  cavalry,  a  branch  of  military  power  which  has  generally 
been  much  neglected  in  China.  He  took  special  pains  to  train  a  large  body 
of  officers,  and  he  instituted  a  tribunal  of  war,  to  which  the  supreme  direc- 
tion of  military  matters  was  entrusted.  As  these  measures  greatly  shocked 
the  civil  mandarins,  who  regarded  the  emperor's  taking  part  in  reviews 
and  the  physical  exercises  of  the  soldiers  as  an  '  impropriety,'  it  will  be 
allowed   that'  Taitsong   showed    great   moral    courage,    and    surmounted 


CHINA.  317 

some  peculiar  difficulties  in  carrying  out  his  scheme  for  forming  a 
regular  army." 

Taitsong  did  not  have  to  wait  long  before  obtaining  an  opportunity  to 
test  his  new  army,  when  he  put  to  rout  a  superior  number  of  the  desert 
warriors.  Several  of  the  leading  khans  yielded  to  his  "  invincible  "  troops, 
until  his  name  became  a  terror  to  the  numerous  tribes.  He  was  now  not 
only  known  as  Emperor  of  China,  but  he  also  held  the  additional  title  of 
Khan  of  the  Tartars,  the  tribal  warriors  of  the  desert  at  last  findintr  a  ruler 
capable  of  holding  them  under  partial  subjection.  A  great  war  with  Tibet 
followed,  when  again  Taitsong's  trained  troops  vanquished  a  powerful 
enemy,  the  leader  of  whom,  Sanpou,  gladly  accepted  allegiance,  and  be- 
came a  good  subject  of  the  emperor.  Marrying  a  Chinese  princess,  the 
latter  built  a  walled  city  in  honour  of  the  event.  For  the  third  time  he 
was  victorious,  and  Eastern  Turkestan  became  a  part  of  the  empire.  The 
renowned  Panchau  had  conquered  this  territory  five  centuries  before,  but 
it  had  never  become  a  part  of  China  until  now.  The  last  great  war  of 
this  victorious  emperor  ended  less  successfully  than  the  others,  though 
this  mattered  not  so  much.  It  was  an  invasion  of  Cbrea,  and,  after  win- 
ning several  victories,  his  soldiers  were  finally  unsuccessful,  and  were 
■obliged  to  abandon  their  undertaking,  the  triumphant  Coreans  shouting 
after  them  in  derision  "a  swift  and  delightful  journey"  as  they  retreated. 

Not  only  as  a  warrior  was  Taitsong  the  Great  renowned,  but  in  tlie  arts 
of  peace  he  was  equally  celebrated.  In  these  he  was  assisted  by  one  of 
the  noblest  and  ablest  of  women,  his  wife  Changsungchi.  Acting  under 
her  advice,  he  founded  the  Imperial  Library  and  the  college.  Her  death 
was  felt  severely  by  him,  and  from  that  time  his  energy  and  ability 
appeared  to  wane.  His  final  work  was  the  treatise  upon  government,  tlie 
"  Golden  Mirror,"  which  bears  bis  name  as  author,  though  no  doubt  his 
gifted  wife  had  aided  him  materially  in  its  construction.  He  died  sin- 
cerely lamented  by  all  of  his  countrymen,  and  his  figure  stands  out  as 
that  of  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  liumane  of  Chinese  rulers. 

Taitsong  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Kaotsong  in  149  a.d.  While  the 
new  emperor  was  a  worthy  successor  of  so  great  a  monarch  as  his  father, 
his  reign  is  made  chiefly  memorable  by  a  woman,  a  widow  of  Taitsong,  his 
father,  whom  he  made  his  wife.  Her  first  act  was  to  get  rid  of  his  other 
wives,  and  have  herself  declared  his  consort.     From  that  time  she  was 


virtually  the  ruler,  not  only  of  her  husband,  but  of  the  empire.  While 
women  have  acted  important  parts  in  the  checkered  history  of  the  Celes- 
tial Empire,  not  one  ever  reached  the  high  pinnacle  of  power  attained  by 
this  Empress  Wou. 

During  the  reign  of  Kaotsong  war  with  Corea  was  resumed  with  better 
success  than  before,  and  at  this  time  the  Chinese  for  the  first  time  came 
into  armed  opposition  with  the  Japanese.     The  Tibetans  proved  "  a  thorn 


ROAD    BY    THE    SIDE    OF    WANGPOO    RIVER,    SHANGHAI. 


in  the  flesh  of  the  emperor,"  but  by  the  early  death  of  Sanpou,  who  some- 
how failed  to  remain  a  faithful  citizen  of  his  adopted  country,  the  affair 
was  ultimately  bridged  over,  if  not  settled  for  all  time.  So  far-famed  was 
the  glory  of  the  Tang  dynasty  at  this  period,  that  the  caliphs  of  Bagdad 
sent  hither  their  ambassadors  to  treat  with  it,  while  royal  representatives 
also  came  from  imperial  Byzantium.  Upon  the  death  of  this  emperor  in 
683  A.  D.,  the  Empress  Wou  became  supreme  ruler,  and  retained  her  power 
in  spite  of  enemies  until  the  year  704,  when  she  was  deposed  at  the  age 


CHINA.  319 

of  eighty.  This  did  not  occur  until  she  had  been  broken  down  by  illness, 
and  her  exit  from  the  stage  of  action  was  as  superb  as  had  been  her  career 
during  her  rule  of  forty  years. 

The  sun  of  the  dynasty  of  the  Tangs  seemed  to  have  passed  its  zenith 
with  the  end  of  Kaotsong's  reign,  and,  in  the  hundred  years  that  followed, 
during  a  period  when  seventeen  emperors  occupied  the  throne,  there  is  not 
much  to  interest  the  historian.  Five  small  dynasties  of  less  account  bring 
the  history  to  960,  when  the  Sung  dynasty  came  upon  the  stage.  These 
were  the  formidable  barbarians  from  the  north  known  as  the  Khitans. 
To  escape  their  iron  rule  the  Chinese  invited  in  another  evil  in  the  shape 
of  the  powerful  Kins,  or  Niu-Chih,  to  expel  the  Khitans.  The  new  allies 
proved  themselves  equal  to  the  task,  for  not  only  did  they  drive  tlie 
enemy  from  the  field,  but  they  took  possession  themselves,  and  in  the 
middle  of  the  twelfth  century  ruled  over  the  entire  country  north  of 
the  Yangtse.  But  at  this  time  a  young  man  was  gathering  on  the  ])lains 
of  the  north  an  army  that  was  destined  to  sweep  the  empire  like  a 
monsoon,  completely  changing  the  geography  of  the  Far  East. 


KICK    SELLEKb    AT    A    MILITAKY    STATION. 


CHAPTER   XXVII. 


THE  DYNASTY  OF  THE  MONGOLS. 


WE  now  approach  the  most  glorious  and  celebrated  era  known  to 
the  ancient  empire,  though  it  was  the  flame  of  a  foreign  sword 
which  caught  the  celestial  spark  of  life  as  the  match  to  light  its 
own  fires  on  the  ruins  of  Kin  and  Khitan.  That  we  may  the  better  under- 
stand the  greatest  conquest  recorded  in  history,  let  us  glance  at  the  causes 
which  united  this  warlike  train,  and  the  origin  of  the  valiant  leader  who 
led  it  to  such  far-reaching  victories. 

In  the  great  heart  of  Eastern  Siberia,  wandering  like  bands  of  nomads 
over  the  vast  pasture-lands  of  the  northern  tributaries  of  the  River  Amur, 
has  existed  a  race,  older  perhaps  than  the  Chinese  themselves,  which  from 
time  immemorial  has  given  the  latter  constant  dread  and  many  hard-fought 
battles.  The  broad  steppes  over  which  these  people  drove  their  herds  were 
too  barren  to  afford  at  their  best  more  than  a  precarious  living  for  them- 
selves and  their  animals.  Thus  when  a  long  and  severe  drought  prevailed, 
as  often  happened,  they  were  obliged  to  seek  more  fertile  fields.  So  a 
protracted  dry  season  was  invariably  followed  by  one  of  those  raids  which 
have  so  crimsoned  the  pages  of  Asiatic  history.     Lying  on  the  south  with 


CHINA.  321 

an  exposed  frontier,  though  the  other  three  sides  were  protected  by  natural 
barriers  of  ocean  and  mountains,  it  was  to  be  expected  that  Cathay  should 
become  the  principal  raiding-ground  of  this  numerous  and  warlike  race. 

It  was  to  stem  the  tide  of  these  terrible  invaders  that  Hoangti  projected 
the  Great  Wall,  which,  when  completed,  proved  no  barrier  against  these 
wild  riders  that  feared  neither  man  nor  God.  It  was  to  meet  and  turn 
back  the  flood  of  these  barbarians  that  Taitsono;  the  Great  trained  his  great 
army,  and  for  the  first  time  the  storm  of  invasion  was  checked.     But  the 


NANKIN    ritoM     n  lY     WAI.l. 


career  of  a  chief,  however  great,  is  but  a  line  drawn  across  the  plain  oL 
centuries,  and  Taitsong  gone,  these  armed  hosts  once  more  i\)de  whither 
they  listed. 

It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  a  unity  of  power  existed  among 
these  barbarians,  for  there  were  many  tribes  or  clans,  and  these  were 
ever  at  w^ar  with  each  other,  when  not  at  war  with  the  world.  Now 
and  then  some  chief  would  rise  in  the  midst  of  rebellion  and  clash  of 
arms  strong  enough  to  command  the  whole,  or  a  good  portion  of  it. 
We  have  spoken  of  the  Topas,  or  "  masters  of  the  earth,"  as  they  delighted 


to  style  themselves,  in  an  invasion  of  China  in  early  days,  who  held  a 
portion  of  Northern  Cathay  for  150  years.  This  mighty  alliance  had 
been  the  successor  of  an  equally  strong  league  of  tribes  known  to  the 
Chinese  as  the  Tanjous,  which  had  held  sway  for  three  centuries.  The 
Topa  reign  was  broken  by  a  slave  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  who  allied  him- 
self with  a  band  of  discontented  foUow^ers ;  and  these  established  a  wider 
and  greater  supremacy  than  any  before  them.  This  leader  assumed  the 
title  of  khan,  which  seems  to  have  been  borrowed  from  the  Persians, 
and  meant  king  or  prince. 

In  the  sixth  century  a  band  of  Turkish  slaves  employed  under  hard 
taskmasters  in  the  mines  of  the  Altai  Mountains  rose  in  rebellion,  and 
the  Tartar  khan  met  his  downfall,  so  that  this  foreign  element  came 
to  the  front  in  shaping  the  fortunes  of  these  warriors.  To  the  title  of 
khan  was  added  the  descriptive  "  gur,"  which,  with  the  other,  signified 
"great  king."  Situated  now  between  Rome  on 'the  west  and  Cathay 
on  the  east,  with  a  dominion  extending  from  Central  Siberia  on  the 
north  to  Persia  on  the  south,  the  new  khan  made  his  power  felt  every- 
where. Envoys  from  the  Eternal  City  and  peacemakers  from  the 
"  Perpetual  Capital,"  Nankin,  were  haughtily  received  by  the  gur  khan, 
seated  in  his  open  tent  on  the  plains  forming  the  foot  of  the  Altai 
Mountains. 

These  eventually  met  their  conquerors,  and  other  tribes  and  clans 
rose  and  fell,  until  between  900  and  1100  A.  d.  the  Khitans  were  lords 
of  the  Siberian  steppes  and  the  terror  of  Cathay,  as  has  been  described. 
Then  the  Kins,  or  "  Golden  Tartars,"  of  Manchu  origin,  overthrew 
them,  to  be  in  turn  flung  down  by  the  mightiest  confederation  of 
them   all. 

A  chief  named  Budantsar  first  brought  this  new  clan  into  prominence, 
and  then  one  Kabul  strengthened  and  increased  its  power.  He  was  at 
its  head  when  the  great  hero  of  the  Far  East  w^as  born,  in  the  light  of 
whose  conquests  the  glory  of  Alexander  and  Napoleon  become  as  the 
dusk  at  the  close  of  day.  As  in  the  case  of  many  other  famous  heroes 
of  history,  the  birth  and  the  early  life  of  the  coming  conqueror  are  but 
vaguely  told,  one  account  bearing  as  much  truth  as  another  perhaps,  and 
none  of  them  correct.  One  of  the  most  romantic  says  that  while  Kabul 
was  away  on  one  of  his  frequent  raids  he  captured  a  beautiful  maiden 


CHINA. 


323 


who  had  become  separated  from  her  father's  train.  Upon  seeing  her 
and  remarking  her  great  beauty,  he  was  led  to  exclaim,  "  This  woman 
is  destined  to  bear  a  valiant  son."  He  made  the  daughter  of  the  desert 
chief  his  wife.  While  on  another  incursion  against  his  enemies  the 
expected  son  was  born,  and  learning  of  this  as  he  was  returning  with 
the  leader  of  his  foes  a  captive  in  the  midst  of  his  train,  he  gave  his 
young  son  the  name  of  this  chief,  Temujin,  and  in  honour  of  tlie  happy 
event  spared  the  latter's  life.     In  proof  of  this  pretty  tale  the  very  spot 


THE    FEAST    OF    LANTERNS. 


where  was  pitched  the  Tartar  encampment  at  the  time  of  the  birth  of 
the  future  conqueror  is  still  pointed  out  on  the  bank  of  the  Onon,  and 
it  is  to  this  day  known  by  the  Tartar  name  of  Dilun  Boldak.  The 
apparent  age  of  the  renowned  leader  would  fix  this  date  at  1160.  Those 
who  believe  in  this  birth  describe  many  serious  and  prolonged  struggles 
on  the  part  of  the  youth  in  order  to  gain  the  position  held  by  his  father, 
upon  the  latter's  death.  At  the  early  age  of  thirteen  the  boy  is  depicted 
both  as  begging  the  army  to  accept  him  as  their  king,  and  also  as  defying 
them,  when  they  have  thrown  him  aside. 


Another  account  declares  that  the  early  life  of  the  conqueror  is  un- 
known, and  that  as  the  great  confederation  of  Kahul  was  falling  to 
pieces,  he  appeared  on  the  scene,  quickly  mustering  the  armed  hosts 
and  leading  them  against  their  hated  foes,  the  all-powerful  Keraits. 
He  was  then  a  young  man,  whom  a  great  seer  prophesied  was  destined 
to  conquer  the  world.  This  story  agrees  with  the  claims  of  the  Japanese 
that  he  was  their  most  renowned  hero,  Yoshitune,  who,  after  having 
won  the  most  splendid  series  of  victories  ever  accorded  to  their  country- 


COUNTRY    FARMHOUSE,    NEAR    SHANGHAI. 


men,  had  been  outlawed  by  his  half-brother,  the  emperor,  on  account 
of  jealousy,  and  had  managed  to  escape  to  Siberia.  There  is  certainly 
a  correspondence  between  the  two  careers  sufficiently  striking  to  make 
it  likely  that  they  belong  to  one  and  the  same  person. 

At  any  rate,  all  historians  agree  that  at  this  time,  about  1194,  he 
was  rallying  and  uniting  the  disintegrated  ranks  of  his  predecessor,  and 
that  he"  named  his  followers  Mongols,  which  means  "  bold."  As  for 
himself,  he  chose  the  title  of  Genghis  Khan,  which  meant  greatest  or 
*'  very  mightiest  king."      His  vaulting  ambition  was  not  satisfied  with 


CHINA.  305 

the  adjective  in  its  comparative  form.  His  first  battle  did  not  seem  to 
warrant  him  in  his  assumption,  for  he  suffered  a  disastrous  defeat  at 
the  hands  of  the  Keraits.  Undismayed  by  this,  he  rallied  and  soon 
reappeared  against  them,  putting  them  to  rout  this  time.  This  was 
the  true  beginning  of  his  wonderful  career.  He  now  dared  to  challenge 
the  most  powerful  confederation  of  warriors  on  the  northern  steppes, 
and  after  a  bitter  and  protracted  fight  crushed  the  valiant  host  which 
had  been  styled  "  the  Flower  of  the  Tartars." 

Thereupon  the  new  leader,  flushed  with  his  recent  triumph,  assembled 
his  leading  chiefs,  and  in  the  presence  of  a  vast  throng  of  spectators, 
with  the  national  "  flag "  made  of  nine  white  yak  tails  waving  over 
his  head,  declared  that  he  had  won  his  right  to  his  new  title,  Greatest 
Khan,  and  that  he  should  not  turn  back  until  he  had  led  his  people  to 
the  grandest  victories  ever  accomplished.  It  was  easy  now  to  strengthen 
his  already  large  army,  and,  rewarding  those  who  had  been  foremost  in 
achieving  his  recent  victories,  he  marched  against  the  most  powerful 
tribe  in  the  Far  East,  the  Kins,  who  had  wrested  Cathay  from  the  hands 
of  the  Chinese  and  reigned  supreme  in  that  empire.  On  his  Avay  he 
met  and  overthrew  one  of  the  emperor's  vassals.  King  Hai.  Wishing 
him  as  an  ally  rather  than  as  an  enemy,  he  won  him  over  to  his  cause 
by  marrying  his  daughter.  He  now  headed  his  army  upon  the  populous 
country  of  the  Kins,  surrounded  on  the  frontier  by  the  Great  Wall, 
and  filled  with  walled  cities  overflowing  with  a  population  that  look-ed 
■upon  these  invaders  as  "  debased  slaves."  Swarming  through  the  gaps 
of  the  stone  barrier  like  eagles  bursting  upon  their  prey,  the  Mongols 
hurled  themselves  upon  the  defiant  Kins,  and  everywhere  it  flaunted 
the  ensign  of  the  white  yak  was  an  emblem  of  victory.  Still  there 
were  many  walls  to  scale,  many  strongholds  to  capture,  and  the  doughty 
Kins  rallied  so  swiftly  and  fought  so  desperately  for  their  chieftains, 
that  Genghis  soon  found  he  had  no  small  contract  to  carry  out.  For 
eight  years  this  iinremitting  warfare  went  on,  without  either  side  showing 
any  weakness.  Battle-field  after  battle-field  was  deluged  with  the  blood 
of  the  slain,  but  still  the  Chinese  sprang  in  to  fill  the  rent  in  their  army, 
and  the  Mongol  hosts  never  failed  to  recruit  their  riven  ranks,  until 
there  seemed  no  end  in  prospect,  and  the  bloody  current  of  battle 
promised  to  flow  on  for   ever. 


For  some  reason  Genghis  Khan  suddenly  ceased  his  attacks,  and, 
changing  his  base  of  operation,  invaded  Central  Asia.  This  was  in 
1218,  and  within  five  years  he  had  swept  the  oases  of  the  vast  plains 
like  a  mighty  broom  of  destruction,  obliterating  such  cities  as  Kenna, 
Bokhara,  and  Samarcand ;  had  cast  in  the  dust  the  pride  of  Persia, 
and  had  laid  Russia  bleeding  at  his  feet,  stopping  only  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains  of  Central  Europe.  Wheeling  about,  he  overthrew  the 
caliphate  of  Bagdad,  and  went  back  to  finish  his  work  in  Cathay.  He 
found  the   kingdom  of  Hai  in  open   rebellion,   and   he   lost  no  time   in 


VIEW    ON    A    RIVER    NEAR    CANTON. 


driving  this  back  into  the  traces.  Putting  into  the  field  now  the  largest 
army  ever  under  his  command,  in  midwinter,  1225,  on  the  frozen  waters 
of  the  Hoang-ho,  he  fought  his  last  and  greatest  battle,  in  which  the 
followers  of  Hai  were  so  nearly  exterminated  that  the  handful  left  was 
glad  to  swear  allegiance  to  him.     He  was  now  master  of  the  situation. 

But  he  was  not  to  be  spared  to  enjoy  his  hard-earned  triumphs  long 
for  two  years  later  he  was  seized  with  an  illness  which  threatened  to 
become  fatal.     The  auguries  were  consulted,  when  it  was  freely  declared 
that  all  the  signs  pointed  to  his   death.      The   great  conqueror  was  so 
deeply  impressed  with  this  that  he  called  his  most  faithful  officers  about 


CHINA. 


q07 


him,  and  urgently  requested  that  hencefortli  no  unnecessary  slaughter 
of  human  lives  should  be  allowed.  Well  might  he  urge  this,  with  the 
fact  fresh  in  his  memory  of  five  million  lives  which  he  had  sacrificed 
on  the  altar  of  his  ambition.  He  died  in  1227,  at  the  age  of  sixt^'-five, 
having  brought  under  his  dominion  within  twenty  years  all  of  the  country 
from  the  Yellow  Sea  to  the  river  of  Danube,  from  the  frozen  steppes 
of  Siberia  to  the  arid  plains  of  Persia.  If  we  take  into  consideration, 
as  we  must  in  order  to  do  him  justice,  the  mighty  momentum  given  by 


CAP- vendf:r's  shop,  canton. 


the  force  of  his  arms  to  the  career  of  his  rightful  successor,  it  may  be 
said  that,  beginning  with  the  lordship  of  a  rebellious  band  of  wild  horse- 
men, he  ended  as  ruler  of  half  of  the  civilised  world.  If  the  question 
arises  as  to  what  did  it  all  avail,  this  tornado  of  blood  and  death  sweep- 
ing over  the  face  of  earth,  "  perhaps  the  most  important  result  of  this 
great  outpouring  into  Western  Asia,  which  certainly  was  the  arrest  of 
the  Mohammedan  career  in  Central  Asia  —  and  the  diversion  of  the 
current  of  the  fanatical  propagators  of  the  Prophet's  creed  against 
Europe  —  is  not  as  fully  recognised  as  it  should  be.  It  may  be  asserted 
that  Genghis  represented  in  their  highest  form  all  the  qualities  which 


entitled  his  race  to  exercise  governing  authority.  He  was,  morever,  a 
military  genius  of  the  very  first  order,  and  it  may  l)e  questioned  whether 
either  Caesar  or  Napoleon  can  as  commanders  be  placed  on  a  par  with 
him.  Even  the  Chinese  said  that  he  led  his  army  like  a  god.  The 
manner  in  which  he  moved  large  bodies  of  men  over  vast  distances 
without  an  apparent  effort,  the  judgment  he  showed  in  the  conduct  of 
several  wars  in  countries  far  apart  from  each  other,  his  strategy  in  un- 
known regions,  always  on  the  alert,  yet  never  allowing  hesitation  or 
overcaution  to  interfere  with  his  enterprise,  the  sieges  which  he  brought 
to  a  successful  termination,  his  brilliant  victories,  a  succession  of  '  suns 
of  Austerlitz,'  all  combined  make  up  a  picture  of  a  career  to  which  Europe 
can  offer  nothing  that  will  surpass  it,  if  indeed  she  has  anything  to  bear 
comparison  with  it.  After  the  lapse  of  centuries,  and  in  spite  of  the 
indifference  with  which  the  great  figures  of  Asiatic  history  have  been 
treated,  the  name  of  Genghis  preserves  its  magic  spell.  It  is  still  a  name 
to  conjure  with  when  recording  the  great  revolutions  of  a  period  which 
beheld  the  death  of  the  old  system  in  China,  and  the  advent  in  that 
country  of  a  newer  and  more  vigorous  government  which,  slowly  aC' 
quiring  shape  in  the  hands  of  Kublai  and  a  more  national  form  undei 
the  Mings,  has  attained  the  pinnacle  of  its  utility  and  strength  under 
the  influence  of  the  great  emperors  of  the  Manchu  dynasty.  But  great 
as  is  the  reputation  Genghis  has  acquired,  it  is  probably  short  of  its 
merits.  He  is  remembered  as  a  relentless  and  irresistible  conqueror, 
a  human  scourge,  but  he  is  much  more.  He  was  one  of  the  greatest 
instruments  of  destiny,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  moulders  of  the 
fate  of  nations  to  be  met  with  in  the  history  of  the  world.  His  name 
still  overshadows  Asia  with  its  fame,  and  the  tribute  of  our  admiration 
cannot  be  denied." 

While  the  great  conqueror  advised  more  humane  methods  of  warfare, 
he  did  not  wish  that  the  conquest  he  had  begun  should  be  relinquished. 
He  charged  his  son  Ogotai  to  resume  the  work,  and  never  to  abandon 
the  war  until  the  Kins  should  be  overpowered.  He  did,  however,  declare 
that  it  would  be  better  to  let  India  alone,  which  idea  was  followed. 
In  1230  Ogotai  took  the  field  in  person,  and  two  years  later  increased 
his  army,  and  placing  one  wing  under  the  command  of  his  brother  Tuli, 
prepared  to  attack  the  Kins    simultaneously   from    two    directions.      A 


CHINA. 


329 


life  and  death  struggle  followed,  during  whicli,  as  if  they  did  not  have 
enough  on  hand  in  fighting  the  Mongols,  those  old  enemies  of  the  Kins, 
the  Sung^,  put  an  army  in  the  field  against  them.  Finally,  in  1234, 
after  having  held  out  against  the  powerful  Mongols  for  over  a  quarter 
of  a  century,  the  Kins  were  overpowered.  Nine  emperors  had  ruled 
Northern  China,  occupying  a  period  of  118  years,  and  the  last  ruler, 
Ninkiassu,  showed  the  metal  of  which  their  natures  were  made  by  setting 
fire  to  the  palace  at  Tsaichau  where  he  had  taken  refuge,  and  entering 


AI'VKIMIM     IN     A.    "MVNDViaN^    IIOL&I 


an  upper  chamber  closed  the  doors,  prepared  to  die  in  the  flames  rather 
than  to  become  the  captive  of  his  hated  enemies.  Many  of  his  generals, 
and  some  of  his  soldiers,  followed  his  heroic  example. 

The  next  year  the  Mongols  increased  their  numbers  to  half  a  million, 
and,  divided  into  three  armies,  marched  against  the  Sungs,  who  nmst 
have  seen  by  this  time  the  folly  of  their  action  in  harassing  the  Kins, 
who  had  previously  sought  their  alliance.  The  result  was  so  uncertain 
that  finally  Ogotai  desisted  from  continuing  his  war,  and  lived  for  six 
years  in  peace.  On  the  whole  he  seems  like  a  humane  ruler,  and  at 
his    death  his  eldest  son,    Kuyuk,  succeeded   him,  whose  induction    into 


his  hiijli  office  has  been  described  as  one  of  tlie  most  brilhant  affairs 
in  history.  Death,  however,  cut  short  bis  reign,  and  he  was  succeeded 
by  a  son  of  Tuli,  named  Mangu.  This  monarch  entrusted  to  his  brother, 
Knblai,  the  task  of  conquering  the  Sung  dynasty  in  Southern  China. 

This  was  in  1251,  when  the  Sungs  had  enjoyed  fifteen  years  of  peace. 
They  had  lost  their  former  great  general,  and  were  poorly  prepared  to 
meet  the  new  attacks  of   the    Mongols.       Kublai    first    entered    Yunnan 


SCENE    AT    THE    SACRED    ISLAND    OF     POOTOO. 


through  Szechuan  and  across  the  Kin-sha  Kiang,  "  River  of  Golden 
Sand,"  and  captured  that  province,  which  at  the  time  was  independent  of 
other  powers.  The  object  of  this  capture  was  to  obtain  a  flank  movement 
on  the  Sungs.  But  serious  complications  arose  before  Kublai  could  carry 
out  his  purpose.  His  command  was  taken  from  him,  and  then  restored. 
Mangu  died,  and  a  dispute  arose  as  to  who  should  succeed  him.  While 
Kublai  was  his  brother's  lawful  heir,  there  was  a  younger  brother 
wlio  enjoyed  the  advantage  of  having  temporary  possession  of  Karakoram, 
the  supreme  capital  of  Mongolia.     No  great  khan  could  receive  his  author- 


CHINA.  331 

ity  except  here,  at  the  cradle  of  his  dynasty.  Kublai  attempted  to  over- 
come this  obstacle  by  establishing  himself  at  Cambaliic,  ancient  Pekin,  and 
though  he  sent  out  his  proclamation  to  the  Mongols  and  their  khan,  they 
refused  to  recognise  him,  since  he  had  not  been  proclaimed  from  Karako- 
ram.  Aribuka  was  received  favourably ;  but  Kublai  was  not  to  be  cheated 
of  his  birthright  without  a  struggle,  and  he  marched  upon  Karakoram, 
quickly  putting  the  pretender  to  flight.  But  he  very  generously  reinstated 
him  with  his  rank  of  prince,  and,  leaving  him  to  assume  rule  over  the 
scattered  Mongol  tribes,  he  went  to  Pekin  intending  to  yield  his  rights  as 
khan  over  other  territory  than  that  comprising  the  fertile  country  of 
Cathay.  By  this  it  will  be  seen  that  Mangu  Khan  was  really  the  last 
Mongol  who  held  sway  in  the  east  and  west  and  north. 

The  course  of  action  now  followed  by  Kublai  made  it  imperative  that 
he  should  settle  the  old  score  with  the  Sungs,  whose  emperor  had  most 
foolishly  and  needlessly  given  cause  for  umbrage  on  the  part  of  the  ambi- 
tious Kublai,  who,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind,  was  looked  upon  by  his 
own  countrymen  as  more  Chinese  than  Mongol.  He  had,  in  point  of  fact, 
accepted  the  traditions  of  the  race  he  now  intended  to  govern,  conducted 
his  court  with  all  the  splendour  and  magnificence  of  Hoangti  or  Taitsong, 
adopted  the  Chinese  system  of  taxation,  made  himself  the  friend  of  the 
literati  by  freeing  those  who  had  been  in  prison,  and  secured  the  undying 
friendship  of  the  religious  leaders  by  declaring  himself  a  patron  of  Bud- 
dhism, which'  was  then  the  only  active  religion  in  Eastern  Asia.  Thus 
the  Chinese  of  the  region  of  the  Kins  and  Khitans  readily  helped  swell 
his  army  in  this  last  campaign  against  the  Sungs. 

In  the  scenes  which  follow  we  find  an  example  of  courage  and  fidelity 
to  one's  convictions  worthy  of  emulation  by  any  race  on  earth.  In  the 
most  heroic  deeds  of  Japan,  in  those  days  when  every  man  was  ready  to 
sacrifice  his  life  for  wliat  he  believed  to  be  the  interest  of  his  loved  Dai 
Nippon,  there  is  no  nobler  instance  of  sublime  bravery  and  devotion  unto 
death  than  that  sliown  by  the  last  of  the  Sungs. 

Kublai's  army,  which  numbered  over  sixty  thousand  soldiers,  every  man 
of  whom  had  been  tested  on  the  battle-fields  in  the  Mongol  wars,  appeared 
before  the  Sung  capital,  Sianyang,  standing  on  the  southern  bank  of  the 
River  Han.  Across  the  stream  and  connected  by  bridges  was  the  city  of 
Fanching,  the  two  forming  the  strongest  headquarters  of  the  Sung  fol- 


lowers.     At  the  same  time  these  battle-scarred  veterans  appeared  before 
the  fortitied  cities,  an  auxiliary  troop  large  enough  to  form  a  human  cordon 

ten  miles  in  length 
was  stationed 
around  Sianyang. 
Thus  all  land  com- 
munication was  cut 
oft",  and  the  Mon- 
gols undertook  to 
intercept  all  sup- 
plies that  might  be 
sent  to  the  belea- 
guered towns  by 
water. 

So  much  could 
the  army  of  Kublai 
do,  but  it  failed  to 
make  any  impres- 
sion on  the  citadel 
itself.  If  it  was 
reasoned  that  the 
occupants  of  the 
besieged  cities 
would  be  starved 
out,  even  this  began 
to  look  as  though 
it  might  not  be  the 
case,  when  three 
years  had  passed 
without  any  show- 
ing of  weakness  on 
the  part  of  the  be- 
leaguered garrison. 
The  stubborn  governor  was  determined  to  hold  out  ten  years  if  that  were 
possible,  and  he  went  on  with  the  work  of  strengthening  the  fortifications 
and  keeping  a  constant  watch  over  the  enemy. 


A   tiiixKsi:    i:i:staii;ax  r.   Shanghai. 


CHINA,  333 

Meanwhile  an  army  of  Chinese  belonging  to  the  Sung  dynasty  was  on 
the  march  to  the  relief  of  their  countrymen,  but  they  approached  with 
exasperating  slowness.  Learning  of  the  situation,  Kublai  went  thither  to 
lead  the  charge  in  person.  With  all  their  watchfulness,  however,  the 
Mongols  failed  to  prevent  the  sending  of  provisions  into  the  besieged  city 
by  outside  friends.  This  was  in  the  early  summer  of  1270,  and  the  daring 
performance  is  one  of  the  most  heroic  acts  to  be  found  in  the  history  of 
any  country,  while  showing  that,  if  not  a  martial  race,  the  Chinese  have 
been  capable  of  a  sacrificial  heroism  worthy  of  a  Regulus.  The  leaders  of 
the  hazardous  undertaking;  were  two  Chinese  officers  named  Changjchun 
and  Changkoua,  who  prepared  to  ascend  the  river  to  Sianyang  in  two 
divisions.  One  of  these,  headed  by  Changchun,  was  to  keep  back  the 
Mongols  by  the  force  of  arms,  while  the  other,  led  by  his  equally  brave 
brother  officer,  was  to  reach  the  town  with  the  provisions  if  possible.  The 
Mongols,  surprised  by  the  .sudden  attack,  reeled  back,  and  while  the  in- 
trepid Changchun  held  the  enemy  temporarily  at  bay  with  his  war-junks, 
Changkoua  succeeded  in  passing  with  his  junks  loaded  with  provisions. 

Aroused  by  the  desperate  resistance  of  Changchun,  the  Mongols  rallied, 
and,  overwhelming  the  brave  allies  of  the  beleaguered  city,  fairly  crushed 
them  in  their  might.  The  heroic  leader  was  slain,  and  his  mutilated  body 
sent  floating  down  the  river  to  the  city  gate. 

Meanwhile  Changkoua  had  reached  the  besieged  city,  where  he  was 
received  with  wild  demonstrations  by  those  who  now  for  the  first  time 
in  over  four  years  obtained  intelligence  from  the  outside  world.  But  the 
rejoicing  quickly  returned  to  a  realisation  of  their  true  situation,  and  the 
noble  Changkoua,  seeing  that  he  was  not  needed  within  the  city,  resolved 
to  cut  his  way  out,  and,  at  the  head  of  a  larger  force,  endeavour  to  save 
the  beleaguered  town.  To  encourage  him,  he  believed  that  at  that  moment 
Litingchi,  Governor  of  Ganlo,  which  stood  on  the  Han  some  miles  to  the 
south,  was  waiting  to  assist  him  with  five  thousand  troops.  By  prompt 
action  he  believed  he  could  run  the  gauntlet  of  the  enemy  and  join 
Litingchi.  He  assembled  his  brave  followers,  and,  kindling  within  them 
the  divine  spark  of  his  own  heroism,  he  went  aboard  his  junks,  and  set 
sail  down  the  river. 

He  had  noticed  that  one  of  his  officers  was  missing  at  the  start,  and  he 
suspected  he  had  gone  to  betray  him  to  the  foe.     But,  undaunted  l)y  this 


cowardly  desertion,  he  headed  down  the  stream,  breaking  the  chains  which 
the  Mongols  had  stretched  across  the  river,  and  fairly  hewed  his  way  with 
his  sword  through  a  line  of  the  Mongol  fleet.  It  looked  now  as  thougti  he 
might  escape,  bat  in  the  dawning  light  of  early  morning  he  saw  that  he 
was  going  into  a  very  death-trap  set  by  his  hated  foes.  The  river  w^as 
completely  blocked  with  Mongol  war-junks,  while  the  shores  were  lined 
many  deep  wath  armed  men.  Only  one  alternative  was  open  to  Chang- 
koua,  w^io  never  for  an  instant  thought  of  surrendering,  and  that  was  a 


ENTRANCE    INTO    THE    CITY   OF    AMOY. 


bitter  fight  to  th«  last.  His  men  seemed  inspired  wdth  his  own  heroic 
bravery,  and  the  battle  did  not  cease  until  the  final  spear  had  been  sent 
from  the  arm  that  would  lift  the  deadly  weapon  no  more.  The  triumphant 
Mongols,  with  a  feeling  akin  to  admiration  for  the  gallant  sacrifice,  sent 
the  body  of  Changkoua  to  the  governor  of  the  beleaguered  city,  who  ordered 
that  it  should  be  buried  beside  the  equally  heroic  Changchun,  the  people 
uttering,  meanwhile,  loud  manifestations  of  woe  and  bitterness. 

The  heroism  of  these  brave  allies  aroused  the  spirit  of  the  besieged 
people,  while  the  Mongols  began  greater  efforts  to  dislodge  them.  Fan- 
ching  was  now  surrounded,  and  they  sent  to  Persia  for  engineers  skilled 


CHINA 


335 


in  the  work  of  handling  the  enormous  catapults  used  in  the  warfare  of 
that  period  to  throw  huge  stones  against  the  walls  of  the  besieged  town. 
In  this  work  they  were  now  successful,  demolishing  many  of  the  buildings 
and  destroying  the  bridge  between  the  two  cities.  Fanching  finall}^  fell, 
but  it  was  a  city  of  ruins  and  death  that  the  victorious  Mongols  entered. 

Somehow  the  expected  relief  failed  to  reach  Sianyang,  and  the  soldiers 
became  so  disheartened  over  the  failure  of  the  emperor  and  others  to  come 


ITIXEUANT    IJAKBKHS,    SnAN(illAI. 


to  their  assistance,  that  they  threatened  to  refuse  to  stand  by  their  noljle 
governor  longer.  At  this  critical  time  the  latter  received  a  letter  froui 
Kublai  which  extolled  him  for  his  valiant  defence,  and  promised  him  and 
his  followers  no  harm  if  they  should  at  last  lay  down  their  arms.  In 
addition  to  that,  the  khan  promised  to  give  them  all  honourable  emplo}*- 
ment.  It  was  no  disgrace  to  Liuwen  Hoan  that  he  accepted,  and  thus  after 
nearly  five  years  closed  one  of  the  most  heroic  and  memorable  sieges  on 
record. 


The  Mongol  conquest  was  not  yet  accomplished,  and  there  came  to  the 
command  of  tlie  Chinese  ranks  one  Chang  Chikia,  wlio  recaptured  several 
towns,  and,  mustering  about  two  thousand  war-junks,  sailed  up  the  Yang- 
tse  Kiang  to  attack  the  Mongols  at  their  stronghold  just  below  Nankin. 
A  great  naval  struggle  followed,  which  resulted  in  the  discomfiture  of  the 
Chinese,  and  from  this  time  to  the  end  the  Chinese  fought  a  hopeless  fight 
with  unfaltering  devotion  to  their  cause.     The  weak  emperor  died,  another 


VIEW    t)\     TIIK    KUND    AT    SHANGHAI. 


was  proclaimed  and  captured  by  the  Mongols  ;  a  third  died,  and  then  Ti- 
ping,  the  last  of  the  Sung  dynasty,  came  to  the  head.  Canton  was  seized 
by  the  Mongols.  Still  the  valiant  Chang  Chikia  did  not  despair,  and  he 
prepared  to  defend  his  emperor  and  followers  on  the  island  of  Tai,  which 
had  a  harbour  that  could  be  entered  only  with  a  favourable  tide.  The 
Mongols  learned  of  this  new  fortification,  and,  with  their  usual  promptness 
of  action,  attacked  it  before  the  work  was  completed.  Though  the  Chinese 
made  a  desperate  resistance,  their  fleet  was  saved  from  annihilation  l3y  a 


CHINA.  337 

fog  sweeping  over  the  scene.  As  it  was,  the  end  could  be  foreseen,  and 
the  faithful  minister  of  the  emperor,  resolved  to  avert  the  disgrace  of  cap- 
ture, took  him  and  leaped  into  the  sea.  Others  imitated  his  heroiQ  example, 
and  thus  perished  the  last  ruler  of  the  great  dynasty  of  the  Sung. 

A  year  later,  in  1279,  while  making  his  final  defence  for  his  cause, 
Chang  Chikia,  when  about  to  make  an  attempt  to  recapture  Canton  from 
his  enemies,  was  caught  in  a  tempest  off  the  coast,  and  every  vessel  of  his 
powerful  fleet  was  flung  upon  the  shore,  where  men  and  ships  perished. 
Thus  the  elements  gave  the  death-blow  to  the  last  defenders  of  China, 
and,  after  seventy  years  of  such  resistance  as  they  had  not  met  with  else- 
where in  their  far-reaching  conquests,  the  Mongols  conquered  the  ancient 
empire,  and  Kublai  found  his  dream  of  being  its  emperor  at  last  realised. 
Before  this  he  had  shown  that  he  intended  to  become  a  worthy  ruler, 
which  had  made  the  latter  part  of  his  conquest  easier,  and  its  results  less 
objectionable  to  the  masses  of  people  who  had  tired  of  the  long  conflict. 


TRANSPLANTING    RICE. 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 


IMPERIAL    HUNTING  -  GROUNDS. 


A  ROMANTIC  story  is  told  at  Wei-Men  Kuan  of  the  last  of  the  war- 
like days  of  the  Sung  dynasty,  when  the  son  of  the  great  Mongol 
conqueror  was  captured  by  the  Chinese  of  this  vicinity.  In  accord- 
ance with  the  custom  of  the  times,  the  queen  who  ruled  over  this  district 
ordered  that  the  illustrious  captive,  along  with  others,  should  be  put  to 
death.  But  the  queen's  daughter,  seeing  that  the  young  chief  was  both 
handsome  and  pleasant,  fell  in  love  with  him.  She  pleaded  for  his  life  so 
earnestly  that  her  mother  relented,  and  the  happy  couple  were  married 
without  delay.  In  this  manner  the  future  safety  of  the  town  was  ensured, 
and  when  at  the  end  of  the  war  the  queen  could  claim  such  near  relation- 
ship to  the  emperor,  she  did  not  regret  the  step  she  had  taken  in  letting 
love  have  its  own  way. 

Kublai  named  his  dynasty  Yuen,  or  Original,  and  he  took  for  himself  the 
Chinese  name  of  Chitson,  which,  however,  has  been  overshadowed  by  his 
Mongol  designation.  He  established  his  capital  at  Cambaluc,  meaning, 
in  its  Tartar  form,  "  the  city  of  the  kahn,"  and  it  occupied  the  same  site  as 
the  more  modern  Pekin.     It  was  a  splendid  city,  according  to  Marco  Polo, 


CHINA.  339 

and  we  can  do  no  better  than  to  repeat  the  following  account :  "  A  city 
near  by,  or  on  its  site,  had  been  the  chief  town  of  an  independent  kingdom 
on  several  occasions,  i.  e.  of  Yen,  of  the  Khitans,  and  of  the  Kins.  Ac- 
cording to  Marco  Polo,  there  were  twelve  gates,  at  each  of  which  was 
stationed  a  guard  of  one  thousand  men,  and  the  streets  were  so  straight 
and  wide  that  you  could  see  from  one  end  to  the  other,  or  from  gate  to 
gate.  The  extent  of  the  walls  varied ;  according  to  the  highest  estimate 
they  were  twenty-seven  miles  around,  according  to  the  lowest,  eighteen. 
The  khan's  palace  at  Chandu,  or  Kaipin-fu,  north  of  Pekin,  where  he 
built  a  magnificent  summer  palace,  kept  his  stud  of  horses,  and  carried 
out  his  love  of  the  chase  in  the  immense  park  and  preserves  attached, 
may  be  considered  the  Windsor  of  this  Chinese  monarch.  Tlie  position  of 
Pekin  had,  and  still  has,  much  to  recommend  it  as  a  capital.  The  Mings, 
after  proclaiming  Nankin  the  capital,  made  scarcely  less  use  of  it,  and 
Chuntche,  the  first  of  the  Manchus,  adopted  it  as  his.  It  has  since  re- 
mained the  sole  metropolis  of  the  empire."  Here  Kublai  formed  a  govern- 
ment and  called  about  him  the  most  wise  men  of  his  time  as  counsellors, 
so  that  he  seemed  to  suit  the  many  conflicting  elements  in  his  empire. 

Something  of  the  elegance  and  splendour  with  which  he  surrounded 
himself  is  shown  by  the  wonderful  accounts  of  Marco  Polo  relative  to  the 
imperial  hunting-grounds  of  the  famous  Kublai  Khan,  who  was  willing  to 
intermingle  with  his  ideas  of  northern  ruggedness  the  dazzling  ceremonials 
of  Chinese  tradition.  The  palace  at  Shandu  was  built  of  marble,  porphyr}', 
and  other  elegant  stones,  while  the  walls  were  frescoed  with  grotesque 
figures  of  men,  women,  birds,  and  beasts  of  many  kinds,  some  of  which 
were  unknown  to  the  great  Venetian.  Everything  was  painted  in  such 
brilliant  and  s'oro-eous  colours  that  this  visitor  was  dazzled  bv  the  sii2;ht 
of  them.  In  addition  to  these  pictures  the  walls  were  gilded  in  a  lavish 
manner,  and  in  the  main  hall  was  a  throne  standing  on  a  raised  dais 
whicli  seemed  ablaze  with  gold.  Here  the  khan  held  his  court.  Besides 
this  summer  palace  of  beautiful  stone  was  another  quite  as  large  and 
fully  as  wonderful,  being  in  realit}'  a  sort  of  bamboo  tent  constructed  so 
that  it  could  be  put  up  at  the  coming  of  the  khan,  and  when  he  went 
away,  after  a  surfeit  of  hunting,  taken  quickly  down  and  carried  back  to 
his  southern  capital.  The  walls  and  roof  were  made  of  the  tall  canes 
growing  abundantly  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  whole  held  together  by  silken 


cords.     The  building  was  decorated  with  fantastic  pictures  of  tlie  chase, 
and  with  elaborate  gilding.     The  roof  was  made  impervious  to  rain  by  a 

thick  coating  of  lac- 
quer or  varnish. 

These  handsome 
palaces  stood  in  the 
midst  of  the  khan's 
hunting-ground, 
where  not  only  tlie 
more  timid  creatures, 
such  as  the  deer, 
stags,  and  wild  goats 
lived,  but  where  also 
the  lion  lorded  it 
over  the  denizens  of 
the  forests  as  on  his 
native  heath,  while  in 
the  deeper  jungles 
lurked  the  tio;er  and 
the  leopard,  and, 
feared  Ijut  unfearing, 
stalked  the  mighty 
elephant.  In  their 
cages  were  eagles  of 
the  most  fierce  aspect, 
and  trained  to  hunt 
wolves,  affording  one 
of  the  rarest  features 
of  imperial  pastimes. 
But  the  grandest,  in 
the  estimation  of  the 
sovereign,  was  the 
scene  when  his  black- 
spotted  leopards  were 
let  out  to  run  down 
and 


THE    TIGER    GLARD. 


the   wild    goats. 


CHINA. 


341 


his  sleek  tigers   were  sent  to  battle   the   stags,  wild  oxen,  and  wilder 
boars. 

This  ideal  hunting-ground  was  enclosed  by  a  wall  not  less  than  fifteen 
miles  in  circumference,  and  the  tract  thus  bounded  not  only  held  the 
animals  of  the  Oriental  forests,  but  was  itself  a  picture  of  an  Oriental 
country,  although  situated  in  a  temperate  zone.  The  grand  scene  was 
rendered  doubly  attractive  by  "  enchanting  dells,  through  the  midst  of 
which  flowed  sparkling  streams,  and  in  which  the  hunters  might   rest 


PROPITIATORY    OFFERINGS    FOR    DEPARTED    RELATIVES. 


and  dine  amidst  their  sport ;  Inroad  spaces  of  lawn  and  flower  garden, 
with  mauy  fountains  playing  on  the  turf  and  the  flowers,  and  lovely 
groves  that  gave  grateful  shelter  from  the  blazing  summer  sun  of  Tartary ; 
delightful  meadows  stretched  off  from  the  slopes  of  verdant  hills  to  the 
borders  of  rivers,  ponds,  and  lakes  ;  and  there  were  carefully  tended  parks 
where,  in  the  open  air,  the  Tartar  held  mauy  of  his  soleum  festivals  and 
more  joyous  merrymakings." 

When  the  sport-loving  khan  tired  of  the  larger  game,  he  allowed  the 
lions,  tigers,  and  elephants  a  respite,  while  he  went  to  another  resort 
where  he  could  give  himself  over  to  the  lighter  recreation  of  hunting 


partridges,  pheasants,  and  cranes.  These  last  were  large  and  of  a  glossy 
line,  oiitrivalling  anything  of  the  species  seen  in  Europe.  One  kind  was  of 
a  dense  black,  so  glossy  and  sparkling  as  to  reflect  the  scenes  amid  which 
it  lived  ;  a  second  was  of  a  pure  white,  with  feathers  jewelled  with  "  round 
gold  eyes  like  the  feathers  of  the  peacocks;"  another  species  was  of  a 
dazzling  red  mixed  with  black ;  others  were  gray,  with  mottled  heads ; 
and  there  were  yet  others  of  so  many  colours  and  of  so  much  beauty  as 
to  defy   description.     At  this  place  the  khan  had  a  palace  larger  than 


THE    IMPERIAL    CANAL. 


either  of  the  others,  and  quite  as  elaborate,  while  its  situation  was  even 
raoi'e  delightful,  as  it  stood  on  the  edge  of  a  wide  and  beautiful  plain, 
while  the  noble  structure  was  mirrored  in  a  sparkling  sheet  of  water. 
This  was  called  "  the  Cianganor." 

In  order  to  be  provided  with  ample  game  to  his  liking,  the  khan  kept 
great  flocks  of  partridges  in  cages  built  for  that  purpose.  Hunting  at 
Cianganor  was  indeed  royal,  or  as  one  should  perhaps  say,  imperial,  sport. 
Decked  out  in  gorgeous  trappings,  the  khan  would  set  forth  with  his 
four  elephants,  themselves  arrayed  in  imperial  splendour,  and  often  accom- 


CHINA.  343 

panied  by  as  many  as  a  thousand  falconers,  carrying  half  that  number 
of  falcons,  with  a  multitude  of  hawks  and  vultures,  for  hawking  was  the 
great  khan's  favourite  pastime.  Upon  reaching  a  desirable  location, 
Kublai  would  have  his  square  tent  of  lion's  skins  and  gold  cloth  put  up 
for  him,  when  he  w^ould  get  into  position  to  enjoy  the  glorious  sport. 
His  army  of  sportsmen  in  the  meantime  had  divided  into  five  hundred 
couples,  spreading  out  over  a  wide  extent  of  territory.  Then  the  scene 
would  open  by  one  of  the  couples  letting  loose  their  falcon,  which  would 
rush  for  its  prey  with  great  velocity.  Watched  by  all  others,  those  who 
happened  to  be  nearest  the  attack  and  capture  of  the  falcon  would  look 
out  for  the  welfare  of  the  bird  of  prey.  Marked  with  a  silver  label,  each 
falcon  was  to  be  returned  to  its  owner  at  the  close  of  the  hunt.  At  the 
moment  when  the  affair  had  opened  in  full  spirit,  a  messenger  would  dash 
up  to  the  imperial  tent,  crying  out : 

"  Great  khan,  the  birds  are  on  wing !  The  battle  is  begun." 
This  would  be  followed  by  the  imperial  command  to  fling  aside  the 
walls  of  the  tent,  when  the  great  conqueror  would  give  freedom  to  one 
of  his  favourite  hawks,  and,  throwing  himself  back  upon  his  luxuriant 
couch,  watch  the  flight  of  the  bird  and  its  enemy.  He  would  rouse  in 
wild  delight  at  the  exciting  scene  sure  to  follow,  when  the  birds  descried 
each  other  and  began  their  furious  coml)at  in  mid-air,  now  rising  on 
wing,  anon  descending,  whirling,  plunging,  darting,  swooping  around  and 
around,  until  the  beliolder  would  grow  dizzy.  Scarcely  would  the  open- 
ing figlit  be  nearing  its  finish  before  other  hawks  would  be  sent  to 
the  great  battle-ground  overhead,  ?.nd  other  falcons  would  come  down 
upon  their  prey,  until  it  would  seem  as  if  the  very  sky  was  filled 
with„  struggling  birds,  and  every  beam  of  light  was  the  bearer  of 
flying  feathers. 

Nor  did  Kublai  stop  with  all  this  varied  display  of  wild  game,  for  he 
kept  the  largest  number  of  dogs,  it  is  probable,  ever  seen  together  in 
the  world.  It  took  mor-e  than  ten  thousand  men  to  care  for  these  canines 
when  they  went  into  the  chase.  It  must  have  been  a  grand  spectacle 
when  he  rode  into  the  midst  of  these  sports  mounted  on  his  gaih^  capari- 
soned elephant,  followed  and  fairly  surrounded  b}^  thousands  of  noble 
hounds  and  mastiffs,  muttering,  growling,  barking,  baying,  bounding 
about,  all  eager  for  the  coming  fray.     Neither  did  he  confine  himself  alone 


to  dogs,  for  lie  owned  many  rare  species  of  pets  and  favourites,  every 
breed,  size,  colour,  and  shape  of  animal  to  be  found  not  only  in  tlie  Far 
East,  but  brought  down  from  the  ice-bound  regions  of  the  extreme  north ; 
others  from  distant  parts  of  Siberia;  some  from  the  Southland,  and  yet 


THE    KIN -SHAN,    OK    GOLDEN   ISLAND. 


others   from   countries   strange   to   the    common    people,   and   unknown 
to  the  historian. 

The  splendour  of  this  hunting  scene  can  be  scarcely  imagined.  The 
magnificence  of  his  tents  has  exhausted  the  vocabulary  of  those  who  saw 
them  and  attempted  to  describe  the  "  canvas  city,"  The  tent  for  the 
nobles  was  large  enough  to  lodge  a  thousand  men.  The  khan's  tent  was 
an  elaborate  affair,  sustained  by  posts  of  cedar  and  perfumed  woods,  and 


CHINA.  345 

omament/ad  inside  and  out  with  the  skins  of  mighty  animals  that  the 
khan  was  supposed  to  have  vanquished  in  battle.  Prominent  among 
these  were  skins  of  lions  and  tigers,  while  alongside  were  suspended  skins 
of  great  value,  such  as  the  ermine  and  zibeline,  all  worked  with  borders 
of  great  skill  and  beauty.  This  imperial  tent  was  furnished  with  the 
finest  furniture  to  be  obtained,  each  piece  painted  in  the  brightest  of 
hues.  There  were  divans  covered  with  rare  silks,  and  having  cushions 
of  such  softness  that  the  sitter  dropped  almost  out  of  sight ;  then  there 
were  lounges  and  chairs  upholstered  in  equally  as  fine  manner.  The 
tents  of  the  khan  were  always  pitched  in  some  beautiful  spot,  within 
sound  of  murmuring  waters,  and  in  sight  of  the  forests  he  loved  so  well. 
In  fact,  everything  about  them  was  arranged  to  allow  him  to  enjoy 
Oriental  luxury  in  the  highest  degree.  All  the  dazzling  glory  of  Zenobia's 
elegant  villa  at  Tibur,  and  the  magnificence  of  Cleopatra's  gorgeous  train, 
was  rivalled  in  this  wonderland  of  sport. 

Besides  his  own  tent  and  those  of  his  nobles  and  hunting  men,  there 
were  others  of  corresponding  magnificence  for  the  ladies  of  his  retinue, 
and  for  the  doctors,  astronomers,  and  learned  men  of  his  day,  Kublai 
being  a  firm  friend  to  the  literati.  A  guard  was  kept  constantly  over 
the  imperial  tent,  and  wherever  he  went  the  precious  life  of  his  Imperial 
Majesty  was  watched  by  faithful  guardians.  In  addition  to  all  of  these 
who  have  been  mentioned,  especial  attention  was  paid  to  a  great  train 
of  monks  and  priests,  who  had  their  monasteries  on  some  eminence  rising 
near  by  so  as  to  overlook  the  scene.  These,  in  marked  contrast  to  the 
others,  lived  simple  lives,  ate  nothing  but  boiled  husks  of  corn,  wore 
coarse  attire,  shaved  their  heads  and  faces,  and  slept  on  hard  mats  or 
the  bare  ground.  Some  of  these  married  and  had  families,  but  the 
majority  remained  single. 

Another  class  worthy  of  mention  were  the  magicians,  clothed  in  dark 
robes,  and  wearing  long  hair  and  beards,  who  presided  over  the  banquets 
to  the  khan.  Immediately  upon  the  seating  of  the  men,  one  of  these 
would  wave  a  wand,  when  cups  of  wine  would  start  from  an  adjacent 
taljle  and  move  to  positions  in  front  of  the  ruler.  Others  would  appear 
before  the  guests,  and  so  on  through  each  round  of  courses  until  the  feast 
was  over.  The  company,  even  tlie  khan  liimself,  believed  the  magicians 
had  done  this  by  superhuman  agency,  an  idea  they  were  careful  to  foster. 


tlioiigli  the  wliole  pGrfonnance  was  a  schoiiie  of  clever  trickery  aided  by 
mechanical  contrivances.  That  these  men  licild  a  great  power  over  the 
khan  was  shown  by  the  fact  that  toward  the  close  of  summer  they  would 
announce  to  Knblai  that  the  time  was  drawing  near  when  he  must  return 
to  the  capital  to  take  part  in  the  ceremony  of  sprinkling  the  luilk  of 
sacred  mares.     This  performance  took  place  on  the  28th  of  August,  od 


^^^^p«^^^^^^- 


A    CHINESK    CKMKTKI.'V. 


which  day  the  khan  in  public  threw  into  the  air  a  quantity  of  the  milk 
claimed  to  have  been  brought  from  the  south,  where  it  was  believed 
existed  a  race  of  sacred  white  mares.  Whoever  partook  of  this  fluid 
was  sure  to  receive  great  wisdom  and  good  health,  with  long  life,  and 
only  those  of  the  imperial  family  were  allowed  to  drink  it.  The  sprinkling 
of  this  wonderful  fluid  in  the  air  was  done  to  feed  the  imperial  spirits 
who  might  draw  near  on  that  day  to  obtain  a  portion  of  the  charmed 
liquid. 


CHINA. 


347 


Upon  the  announcement  of  the  magicians  that  it  was  time  to  close  the 
season's  sport,  all  became  bustle  and  excitement  about  the  grounds,  for 
it  was  no  small  matter  to  pack  and  move  the  imperial  outfit  in  a  manner 
becoming  the  ruler  of  a  mighty  empire.  Kublai  did  not  fret  himself 
about  these  preliminaries,  and  he  enjoyed  to  the  last  moment  the  pastimes 
in  which  he  delighted.  When  provision  trains  had  been  started  so  as 
to  be  stationed  along  the  way,  tents  had  been  taken  down,  and  a  final 
feast  partaken  of,  then  the  imperial  train  began  its  long  and  dazzling 


TIGEU    ISLAND,    ENTRANCE    OF    THE    CANTON    KIVKK. 


journey.  This  was  the  signal  for  the  magicians,  who  often  acted  in  the 
capacity  of  priests,  to  make  a  varied  display  of  fireworks  of  the  most 
mysterious  construction,  the  whole  scene  rendered  more  beautiful  and 
impressive  by  wild  songs  from  the  women  belonging  to  the  imperial 
retinue. 

At  his  capital  Kublai  had  everything  in  keeping  with  the  gorgeous 
display  shown  about  his  pleasure-grounds.  His  court  has  been  described 
as  fairly  ablaze  with  glory.  His  courtiers  were  dressed  in  bright  livery ; 
his  feasts  were  elaborate,  and  of  the  best  viands  to  be  obtained ;  visitors 
were  given  a  table  by  themselves  kjnown  as  the  "  travellers'  table ; "  the 


kliaii  sat  at  another  in  sight  of  his  followers,  while  host  and  servitors 
and  visitors  were  guarded  by  twenty  thousand  soldiers,  the  flower  of  the 
Mongol  army.  The  martial  training  and  I)earing  of  the  race  gave  a 
natural  grace  and  dignity  to  a  peaceful  pageantry  that  it  had  lent  to 
the  march  to  battle  in  the  years  before.  To  all  of  this  noble  display  was 
.added  the  majesty  of  the  great  conqueror  himself,  so  that  his  court  and 
capital  were  the  most  splendid  and  picturesque  in  the  world.  Kublai, 
who  was  then  only  forty-four,  in  the  very  prime  of  his  career,  was 
described  by  Marco  Polo  as  "  of  good  stature,  neither  tall  nor  short,  but 
of  a  middle  height.  He  has  a  becoming  amount  of  flesh,  and  is  very 
shapely  in  all  his  limbs.  His  complexion  is  white  and  red,  the  eyes  black 
and  fine,  the  nose  well  formed  and  well  set  on." 

During  the  reign  of  Kublai  the  conquest  of  Japan  was  under.taken, 
wdiicli  proved  a  miserable  failure  to  the  great  khan,  who  finally  had  to 
acknowledge  that  at  last  he  had  met  a  foe  that  it  w^ould  be  better  for 
him  to  let  alone.  But  if  unsuccessful  in  his  invasion  of  Dai  Nippon,  he 
was  victorious  on  the  south  and  west,  bringing  under  his  dominion  Yun- 
nan and  Burma,  though  his  power  soon  weakened  in  this  direction.  Dis- 
putes and  dissensions  at  home  called  for  the  khan's  attention,  and  he  had 
quite  as  much  as  he  could  attend  to  in  fighting  his  own  relatives  who  were 
anxiohs  to  take  his  place.  But  he  more  than  held  his  own  until  his  death 
in  1293,  at  the  age  of  eighty,  having  ruled  for  thirty-five  years.  Whatever 
may  have  been  the  great  conqueror's  shortcomings,  and  no  doubt  he  was 
avaricious  and  superstitious,  he  was  withal  for  his  age  a  sagacious  and 
powerful  emperor,  who  had  the  good  of  his  subjects  at  heart. 

Kublai's  grandson,  his  lawful  heir,  became  his  successor,  and,  though 
this  prince  enjoyed  thirteen  years  of  comparative  peace,  he  did  not  prove 
equal  to  the  herculean  task  of  holding  intact  the  sovereignty  which  had 
fallen  to  him.  In  fact,  with  Kublai  the  sun  of  the  Mongol  ascendency 
moved  rapidly  toward  tlie  horizon,  and  no  name  among  those  of  his  suc- 
cessors stands  out  with  any  great  prominence.  In  less  than  three-fourths  of 
a  century  after  the  great  khan's  death,  through  the  remarkable  conquest 
of  a  native  peasant,  China  was  once  more  ruled  by  one  of  her  own  sons. 


COAL-MINES    AT    YING  -  TIH. 


CHAPTER   XXTX. 


THE    MINGS    AND    MANCHUS. 


THE  successors  of  the  Mongols  were  the  Mings,  so  called.     The  story 
of  the  rise  of  this  dynasty  is  as  romantic  as  that  of  any  of  the 
numerous  d3aiasties  builded  upon  the  achievements  of  some  man 
thus  made  famous  in  history.     The  hero  this  time  was  born  of  humble 
parents,  who  were  so  poor  that,  at  the  death  of  his  father,  he  was  obliged 
to  enter  a  monastery. 

But  even  there  accounts  of  the  dissatisfaction  of  the  native  population 
over  Mongol  rule  reached  him,  and  he  knew  that  everywhere  his  coun- 
trymen were  rising  in  arms  against  what  was  looked  u})on  by  them  as 
foreign  usurpation  of  power.  It  l^elonged  to  the  fortune  of  the  dynasties 
of  government  in  China  that  those  who  followed  the  founder  of  a  Une  of 
rulers  should  not  prove  capable  or  deserving  of  maintaining  the  rule  for 
many  generations.  Thus  the  successors  of  Kublai  gradually  became  un- 
popular, and  lost  their  hold  upon  the  people.  The  young  bonze,  whose 
name  was  Choo  Yuen  Chang,  soon  tiring  of  the  passive  life  of  the  mon- 
astery, and  his  heart  fired  with  patriotic  love  for  his  country,  doffed  his 


sacerdotal  robes  and  entered  the  ranks  of  the  partisan  band,  trying  to 
break  from  the  yoke  of  the  Tartars  in  1345. 

He  seemed  to  have  chosen  a  most  auspicious  time,  and  he  soon  proved 
by  his  wise  counsel,  clear  military  order,  and  not  less  by  his  discreet  and 
humane  conduct,  that  he  was  the  man  to  take  the  lead.  While  the  chief 
aim  of  other  Chinese  leaders  seemed  to  be  to  enrich  themselves  by  the 
spoils  of  war,  he  sought  only  to  succour  the  cause  of  the  unhappy  people. 
Thus  he  soon  gathered  around  him  a  larger  number  of  followers  than 
any  of  the  so-called  patriots,  and  in  1356  he  captured  Nankin,  to  make 
that  city  his  stronghold  and  later  his  capital,  when  he  had  overthrown 
the  Mongols. 

In  a  manifesto  issued  a  short  time  after  this  triumph  he  gave  expres- 
sion to  the  motives  that  had  prompted  him  to  his  duty,  saying  among 
other  things :  "  It  is  the  birthright  of  the  Chinese  to  govern  foreign 
people,  and  not  of  these  latter  to  rule  in  China.  It  used  to  be  said  that 
the  Yuen,  or  Mongols,  who  came  from  the  regions  of  the  north,  con- 
quered our  empire  not  so  much  by  their  courage  and  skill  as  by  the 
aid  of  Heaven.  And  now  it  is  sufficiently  plain  that  Heaven  itself  wishes 
to  deprive  them  of  that  empire  as  a  punishment  for  their  crimes,  and  for 
not  having  acted  according  to  the  teachings  of  their  forefathers.  The 
time  has  come  to  drive  these  foreigners  out  of  China."  The  truth  of 
what  he  said  was  evident  in  the  conduct  of  the  Mongol  emperor,  Cliunti, 
who  had  given  himself  over  to  vice  and  debauchery  of  every  sort,  and 
appeared  blind  to  the  disintegration  of  his  government. 

This  struggle  ended  in  1367,  when  the  last  Mongol  emperor  fled  to 
Mongolia,  where  he  died  three  years  later,  and  the  Yuen,  or  Mongol, 
dynasty  was  succeeded  by  that  of  Choo,  who  assumed  the  name  of  Hong- 
wou,  and  who  styled  his  line  Ming,  meaning  "  bright."  We  have  told 
how  a  shoemaker  established  the  dynasty  of  Song,  and  now  we  see  a 
peasant  made  emperor  by  his  ability  and  discretion,  which  goes  to  show 
that  the  rise  of  humble  men  to  lofty  positions  is  not  confined  to 
republics. 

Hongwou,  knowing  the  dislike  of  his  countrymen  for  a  military  form 
of  government,  was  careful  not  to  give  his  rule  that  character,  though 
he  rewarded  his  faithful  generals  in  a  fitting  manner.  He  soon  proved 
himself  a  benefactor  of  literature,  endowing  Hanlan  College,  which  had 


CHINA. 


351 


fared  ill  of  late,  causing  to  be  written  a  history  of  the  Yuen  dynasty, 
and  composing  the  "  Book  of  Laws,"  by  whicli  the  common  people  were 
enlightened  in  regard  to  the  way  they  were  governed ;  he  did  a  great 
deal,  also,  for  national  education;  founded  many  public  libraries,  cut 
down  court  expenses,  and  accomplished  much  toward  the  support  of  the 
aged.  All  this  was  in  such  marked  contrast  to  the  lavish  outlays  of 
the  Mongols,  that  Hongwou  was  everj^where  lauded  in  high  terms. 

The  famous  summer  palace  of  Kublai  had  been  destroyed  during  the 


HAN  -  TSEUEN,    PROVINCE    OF    KIANG  -  NAN. 


campaigns  against  the  Mongols,  and,  as  he  discouraged  further  embellish- 
ment of  the  northern  capital  of  the  Kins  and  Yuens,  Pekin  became  only 
a  second-rate  city  under  the  Ming  dynasty,  and  Nankin,  as  it  deserved, 
was  raised  to  be  a  national  seat  of  government.  On  the  whole,  the 
reign  of  Hongwou,  which  continued  for  thirty  years,  or  until  1383,  ex- 
emplified the  highest  civilisation  and  constituted  the  noblest  example  of 
fidelity  to  justice  of  any  reign  over  China.  His  power  extended  from 
the  Corean  frontier  and  the  Great  Wall  to  the  Burma  border  on  the 
south,  and  the  population  of  the  empire  at  this  time   was   supposed  to 


be  about  sixty  millions.     His  dynasty  rivals  that  of   the  Hans  in  tlie 
regard  of  the  Chinese  people. 

After  continuing  in  power  for  three  centuries,  the-  Ming  dynasty  shared 
the  fate  of  those  that  had  gone  before,  as  the  later  Mings,  one  after 
another,  fell  from  the  high  precepts  of  the  founder,  until  a  new  dynasty 
of  Tartars  seized  the  throne.  There  was  much  hard  fighting,  however, 
before  this  was  accomplished,  and,  during  the  reign  of  the  Ming  emperor, 
Wanleh,  China  narrowly  escaped  invasion  at  the  hands  of  the  Japanese. 


--5^^ 


4,    ";.  ^yj^  /yjllt" 

THE    CATARACT    OP    SHIH  -  TAN. 


Hideyoshi,  an  ambitious  monarch  of  humble  birth,  held  the  reins  of  gov- 
ernment, and  it  was  his  purpose  to  make  Corea  an  alh^  and  China  a 
vassal  of  his  empire.  This  would  seem  like  a  sort  of  belated  retaliation 
for  the  raid  on  Japan  made  in  the  reign  of  Kublai.  The  manifesto  of  the 
Japanese  emperor  to  the  Corean  king  is  worthy  of  reproduction.  In  it 
he  said  : "  I  will  assemble  a  mighty  host,  and,  invading  the  country  of  the 
great  Ming,  I  will  fill  with  hoar-frost  from  my  sword  the  whole  sky  over 
the  four  hundred  provinces.  Should  I  carry  out  this  purpose,  I  hope 
Corea  will  be  my  vanguard.     Let  her  not  fail  to  be  so,  for  my  friendship 


CHINA.  353 

to  your  honourable  country  depends  solely  on  your  conduct  when  I  lead 
my  army  against  China." 

If  looking  to  an  alliance  with  the  people  of  the  peninsula,  Hideyoshi 
treated  them  as  enemies  when  he  opened  his  campaign,  and  the  first 
victories  of  his  army  were  over  the  raw  recruits  of  the  Coreans.  China 
awakened  to  her  danger,  and  offered  at  first  a  valiant  resistance.  But 
so  much  antagonism  existed  among  the  Chinese  generals  that,  notwith- 
standing the  superior  number  of  their  soldiers,  they  failed  to  drive  the 
Japanese  from  the  field,  and  retired,  after  having  added  to  the  stigma 
of  their  conduct  the  murder  of  two  of  the  Japanese  princes,  leaving  the 
Coreans  at  the  mq^xy  of  the  invaders.  The  death  of  Hideyoshi  saved 
China  from   what  might  have   been  a  humiliating  end. 

During  the  reign  of  Wanleh,  China  for  the  first  time  began  intercourse 
with  Europeans,  the  Portuguese  entering  China  at  this  time.  But  the 
conduct  of  these  foreigners,  whom  they  believed  with  good-  reasons  came 
under  the  guise  of  merchants  as  spies  that  they  might  afterward  "  fall 
upon  them  with  fire  and  sword,"  did  much  toward  arousing  a  bitterness 
ao-ainst  all  newcomers.     The  Portuguese  obtained  a  foothold  at  Macao. 

Soon  afterward  the  Spanish  settled  in  the  Philippines,  and  tried  to  open 
trade  with  the  Chinese.  At  this  period,  too,  the  latter  began  to  emigrate 
to  the  archipelago,  becoming  the  most  prosperous  colonists,  ov/ing  to 
their  frugal  and  industrious  lives.  This  awakened  Spain  to  tin  appre- 
hension of  the  fact  that  she  was  being  outdone  by  the  Celestials  in  the 
Orient.  Rumours  were  set  on  foot  that  the  Chinese  were  plotting  to  kill 
every  Spanish  subject,  and,  under  cover  of  this  claim,  the  Spaniards  made 
their  disgraceful  and  wholesale  attack  upon  the  Chinese,  in  which  a  large 
number  perished.  Still  the  Chinese  continued  to  fly  in  the  face  of  fate 
by  flocking  to  the  islands,  and  massacres  of  the  most  deplorable  nature 
followed.  Little  credit  belongs  to  the  entrance  of  the  Portuguese  into 
Cliina,  or  of  the  Spanish  into  any  part  of  tlie  Far  East.  Both  sought  to 
tyrannise  over  the  Celestial,  while  seeking  to  keep  away  otlicr  foreigners, 
notably  among  them  the  Dutch,  who  persistently  tried  to  open  trade  in 
these  ports. 

Tliere  was  one  class  of  foreig-ners  whom  the  Chinese  received  with 
favour,  and  these  were  the  men  sent  thither  by  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  in  the  sixteenth  century,  numbering  among  them  such  self-sacrific- 


ing  men  as  Matthew  Ricci  and  Michel  Roger.  They  proved  the  friends 
of  hterature,  and  to  them  belongs  the  credit  of  revising  the  Chinese 
calendar.  Though  making  themselves  useful  to  the  Chinese,  and  being 
received  with  marked  distinction  by  the  latter,  they  failed  to  succeed  to 
any  extent  in  the  work  that  had  been  their  prime  object  in  coming 
to  China.  The  people  accepted  slowly  and  with  backward  looks  the 
teachings  of  the  foreign  church. 

In  the  year  when  the  Pilgrims  landed  at  Plymouth  Rock,  to   begin 


DYEING    AND    WINDING    SILK. 


their  arduous  undertakino;  of  formino-  a  church  and  a  o-overnment  in  the 
wilderness  of  New  England,  the  Emperor  Wanleh  died,  leaving  as  his 
heritage  the  crumbling  throne  of  the  Mings,  and  a  new  awakening  of 
foreign  power  and  influence  in  the  Far  East  more  momentous  than  aught 
that  had  been  met  in  the  long  centuries  past. 

Two  invasions  of  Tartars  have  been  described,  that  of  the  Kins  and 
then  that  of  the  Mongols,  and  now  we  come  to  a  third.  Upon  being  over- 
thrown, some  of  the  leaders  of  the  Kins  retired  to  the  broad  plains  form- 
ing the  eastern  end  of  the  Siberian  steppes.  Here  they  lost  their  pride 
of  name,  and  generation  after  generation  lived  and  died  comparatively 


CHINA. 


355 


unknown,  until  from  out  of  the  petty  feuds  common  to  such  wild  clans 
arose  a  man  who  was  capable  of  solidifymg  the  masses  and  of  leading 
them  to  victory,  such  as  their  ancestors  might  have  looked  upon  with 
tribal  exultation.  The  race  was  now  known  as  the  Manchus,  and  the 
cradle  in  which  the  race  had  been  nurtured  was  a  picturesque  valley  lying 
at  the  foot  of  Long  White  Mountains,  which  sheltered  it  from  the  biting 
blasts  of  the  north,  and  its  climate  tempered  to  a  mildness  by  the  sea  on 
three  sides.     On  the  whole,   Manchuria  is  a  smaller  country  than  that 


HONG-KONG    FROM    KOW  -  LOON. 


fi'om  which  sprang  the  Mongols,  but  it  is  similar  to  it  In  general 
appearance. 

The  name  of  the  latest  conqueror  from  the  northland  was  Noorhachu, 
and,  after  gaining  several  victories  from  the  clans  outside  of  the  empire 
of  the  Mings,  he  marched  into  China  in  1G18.  just  two  years  before 
the  Pilgrims  reached  Plymouth.  Inside  of  three  years  he  had  captured 
the  Chinese  city  of  Moukden,  and  made  it  his  capital.  This  was  in  the 
province  of  Liautung,  which  he  brought  under  his  dominion. 

Noorhachu  met  his  first  defeat  when  he  came  to  match  his  crude 
weapon  of  warfare  against  the  cannon  that  the  Chinese  had  obtained  from 


the  Portuguese,  and  under  this  cloud  he  died  soon  after.  His  son  Taitsong 
went  on  with  the  work  of  conquest  which  the  former  had  begun,  and  in 
1635  assumed  the  title  of  emperor,  taking  the  seal  of  the  Mongol  dynasty, 
which  had  been  lost  two  hundred  years  before,  but  had  been  found  at  this 
time  in  opportune  season  for  his  use. 

The  dominion  of  Taitsong  was  very  much  limited,  and  fighting  was 
continually  going  on  all  over  the  empire.  The  leading  spirit  of  the 
Manchu  invasion  died  in  1643,   though  this  did  not  stop  the  intruders 


^^ 


TSEIH    LING    YEN,    OR,    THE    SEVEN -STAR    MOUNTAINS. 

from  keeping  up  their  contest.  In  addition,  the  Chinese,  whose  empire 
now  lay  to  the  south,  were  beset  by  a  rebel  who  gave  them  more  trouble 
than  the  Manchus.  In  this  dilemma  Wou  Sankwei,  the  gallant  general 
at  the  head  of  the  imperial  army,  finding  himself  unable  to  cope  success- 
fully with  the  insurgents,  invited  the  Manchus  to  lend  their  assistance. 
This  was  simply  repeating  what  had  been  done  to  the  Khitans  in  order 
to  overcome  the  Kins,  and  it  seemed  a  sort  of  retributive  justice  that 
the  Manchus  were  allowed  to  pay  the  old  debt  long  overdue  their  ances- 
tors. At  any  rate,  the  rebels  driven  from  the  field,  the  Manchus  prepared 
to  make  the  most  of  their  advantage.     Taitsong's  young  son  was  the 


CHINA.  357 

nominal  head  of  the  new  power,  who  acted  through  his  uncle,  Prince 
Dorgan.  The  latter  as  regent  proclaimed  his  nephew  Emperor  of  China, 
but  it  was  really  a  small  China  over  which  he  pretended  to  reign.  The 
Chinese  emperor  by  the  name  of  Chunthe  ruled  over  the  middle  section 
of  the  ancient  country,  with  his  capital  at  Nankin.  In  the  south  the 
warrior  prince,  Wou  Sankwei,  ruled  over  a  principality,  ready  to  espouse 
the  cause  of  the  imperilled  emperor  should  the  latter  show  himself  fit 
to  rule.  He  was,  however,  a  weak  monarch,  and  his  capital  soon  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Manchus. 

Wou  Sankwei  alone  among  the  strong  leaders  remained  to  oppose  the 
invasion  of  the  Tartars,  and  he  did  not  live  to  ^deld  or  to  -witness 
the  defeat  of  his  followers,  but  died  at  the  head  of  his  army.  With  his 
fall  the  Manchus  found  little  serious  opposition  to  meet.  They  improved 
the  first  opportunity  to  remove  Wou's  body  from  its  tomb,  and  to  scatter 
its  ashes  over  the  eighteen  provinces  of  the  empire,  so  that  no  part  of 
the  man  whom  they  had  been  unable  to  coerce  or  intimidate  could  be 
found. 

At  their  victory  at  Leaoutung  the  Manchus  made  the  Chinese  shave 
their  heads  in  order  to  escape  massacre,  and  this  custom  was  followed 
through  the  conquest.  Then,  singularly  enough,  the  shaved  head  and 
queue,  which  had  originated  in  the  sorrow  of  a  humbled  pride,  was 
accepted  as  the  universal  feature  of  the  race. 

The  conquest  of  the  Manchus  was  a  particularly  severe  blow  to  the 
Chinese,  inasmuch  as  it  had  been  effected  by  a  comparatively  small  body 
of  invaders.  The  Mongol  seizure  of  the  empire  had  been  made  by  a 
powerful  and  well-trained  army,  and  only  after  many  years  of  stubborn 
resistance.  However,  it  should  be  said  to  the  credit  of  the  Chinese  that 
their  new  rulers  had  to  meet  them  more  than  half  way  in  shaping  the 
affairs  of  the  government.  The  Emperor  Chuntche  died  young,  to  be 
succeeded  b}^  his  son  Hanghi,  who  ruled  for  sixty-one  years,  or  until  1722, 
and  it  is  due  to  this  able  monarch  and  the  second  following  him,  his 
grandson  Keen  Lung,  that  China  finally  became  cemented  into  one  grand 
whole.  This  last  named  emperor  ruled  the  same  length  of  time  as  his 
grandfather,  and  then  abdicated  that  he  might  not  throw  disgrace  on 
his  ancestor.  Under  him  Tibet  was  added  to  China,  and  the  wild  tribes 
of  Mongolia,  after  centuries  of  hostility,  were  brought  under  subjection. 


The  reign  of  Yung  Ching — 1722  to  1735 — was  marked  by  two  terrible 

calamities,  though  he  was  not  to  blame  for  either.      The  first  of  these 

was  an  overflow  of  the  Hoang-ho,  which  desolated  the 

country  to  such  an  extent  that  forty  thousand  persons 

had  to  be  fed  by  the  government  for  four  months.     In 


A    CHINESE    BARBER. 


1730    the    entire   province    of    Pechili   was   visited    by   an   earthquake, 
which  destroyed  one  hundred  thousand  lives,  laid  in  ruins  a  good  por- 


CHINA  359 

tion  of  Pekin,  and  demolished  the  imperial  palace  beside  other  notable 
buildings. 

On  the  whole,  the  Manchu  dynasty  opened  upon  a  prosperous  era,  and 
so  rapidly  did  the  number  of  inhabitants  increase  that  the  government 
seriously  wondered  whether  enough  rice  could  be  grown  to  feed  the 
people.  In  order  to  avert  possible  disaster,  such  methods  as  offering 
widows  a  pension  if  they  would  not  remarry,  and  promising  rewards  to 
old  bachelors  if  they  would  remain  celibates,  were  resorted  to  in  the  hope 
of  effecting  a  check  in  the  growth  of  the  population. 


PUNISHMENT    <»F    THE    BASTINADO. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


HOW    EUROPE    ENTERED    CHINA. 


IF  there  is  or  has  been  any  truth  in  Tennyson's  dictum  :  "  Better  fifty 
years  of  Europe  than  a  cycle  of  Cathay,"  for  over  three  centuries 
Europeans  have  been  determined  to  learn  for  themselves.  Their 
feelings  and  situation  were  very  similar  to  that  of  the  child  who  was 
told  that  something  had  been  locked  up  in  the  closet  which  he  must  not 
have  to  play  with.  Though  surrounded  with  objects  of  attraction  that 
under  ordinary  circumstances  would  have  made  him  happy,  his  curiosity 
had  been  aroused,  and  he  would  not  be  contented  until  he  had  looked 
behind  the  forbidden  door.  So  it  has  been  with  foreigners  in  regard  to 
China,  and  an  entrance  through  the  gates  of  the  "  Purple  Forbidden  City  " 
was  the  only  end  in  view. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  was  the  national  trait  of  the  Chinese  to  remain 
in  seclusion.  Their  education  was  laid  upon  this  foundation;  their  re- 
ligious teachings  imbued  them  with  this  spirit.  Thus,  longer  than  there 
is  any  record  or  tradition  to  show  for  it,  they  have  avoided  rather  than 
sought  the  companionships  of  other  people,  their  exceptions  to  this  rule 
being  their  desultory  dealings  with  the  Japanese,  an  occasional  voyage 


CHINA.  361 

to  the  Philippines,  and  their  defensive  relations  with  the  hungry  Tartars 
of  tlie  north,  the  Tibetans  of  the  west,  and  the  Burmese  of  the  south. 
The  visits  of  the  enterprising  Venetians,  the  Polos,  must  have  been  events 
of  great  interest  to  them,  but  even  the  wonderful  accounts  of  these 
intrepid  travellers  regarding  the  world  beyond  them  quickened  no  impulse 
on  the  part  of  the  mighty  khan  to  know  for  himself,  nor  did  they  lift 
the  mind  of  a  single  subject  above  the  barrier  of  self-seclusion,  higher  and 
more  insurmountable  than  the  Great  Wall  that  their  ancestors  had  raised 
against  the  hordes  of  the  steppes.  The  appearance  of  the  Portuguese 
vessels  off  the  coast  in  1516  and  of  the  others  that  followed,  had  little 
visible  effect  on  the  opening  of  the  gates. of  Cathay  to  the  world.  The 
entrance  of  the  adventurous  missionaries  of  the  Jesuit  faith  about  this 
time  gave  promise  of  greater  results,  but  a  little  later  they  were  swept 
from  the  country  without  a  show  of  compassion.  The  story  of  actual 
entrance  of  foreigners  into  the  Flowery  Kingdom  at  last  forms  an 
interesting  chapter  in  the  checkered  history  of  the  ancient  empire. 

So  far  the  attempts  at  entrance  had  been  made  in  an  insidious  manner, 
but  in  1567  an  envoy  from  Russia  dared  to  knock  boldly  at  the  closed 
gate  for  admission.  What  a  shock  it  must  have  been  to  the  imperial 
hermit,  the  Rip  Van  Winkle  of  the  Far  East,  as  he  awoke  on  that  fair 
spring  morning  at  the  stranger's  call.  As  the  visitor's  errand  was  that 
of  the  peaceful  nature  of  trade,  the  ancient  sleeper  let  him  in.  Either 
the  prospect  was  too  small  for  the  outlay,  or  his  reception  was  too  formal, 
for  his  tarry  was  not  long,  and  he  did  not  hasten  to  return.  In  1653, 
nearly  a  hundred  years  later,  Russia  repeated  her  attempt  to  open  busi- 
ness with  the  Middle  Kingdom,  and  a  century  of  patient  waiting  brought 
about  a  system  of  overland  commerce  which  has  been  continued,  with 
more  or  less  interruption,  ever  since.  The  White  Empire  has  maintained 
a  mission  station  at  Pekin. 

Meanwhile,  in  1637,  a  little  fleet  of  English  vessels  commanded  b}^ 
Captain  Weddell  anchored  off  Canton.  The  Chinese,  with  their  charac- 
teristic suspicion  of  foreigners,  fired  on  one  of  the  English  boats.  This 
aroused  the  bluff  Captain  Weddell,  and  he  opened  fire  upon  the  Chinese, 
dismantling  the  fort,  carrying  off  its  guns,  and  capturing  a  couple  of 
merchant  junks.  Naturally,  such  an  introduction  called  for  means 
of   pacification,   and    it    took   Great    Britain    fifty  j^ears   to  appease  thf^ 


anger  of  the  Chinese  enough  to  obtain   trade  privileges  at  Canton  and 
Ning-po. 

For  nearly  a  hundred  years  to  follow,  in  their  anxiety  to  open  negotia- 
tions with  the  mysterious  power  of  the  Far  East,  the  Europeans  came 
humbly,  one  after  another.  Besides  bestowing  lavish  offerings  along  with 
their  petitions,  they  entered  into  the  presence  of  his  Imperial  Majesty  by 
performing  the  kotow,  which  consisted  of  making  obeisance  three  times 
until  the  forehead  touched  the  floor.     The  haughty  Portuguese  had  done 


FEEDING    SILKWORMS,    ANI>    SORTING    THE    COCOONS. 

this ;  the  stout  Hollander  had  done  this ;  the  stalwart  Russian  had 
done  this;  and  the  bold  Britons  did  this  until  1792,  when  Great  Britain's 
ambassador,  the  Earl  of  Macartney,  squarely  refused  to  perform  this 
slavish  ceremony,  to  the  great  dismay  of  the  Chinese  officials.  If  tliis 
bold  foreigner  failed  to  be  received  into  the  presence  of  the  shocked 
emperor.,  he  accomplished  that  which  was  of  vastly  more  importance  to 
the  empire  and  the  rest  of  the  world,  for  he  broke  down  the  foolish  rule 
which  had  governed  for  centuries  the  courts  of  Cathay. 

Of  all  the  centuries  of  China's  long  life,  the  nineteenth  a.  D.  has  been 
the  most  eventful,  and  this  was  opened  by  the  hoisting  of  the  American 


CHINA. 


363 


flag  before  Canton  in  1802,  marking  the  first  act  in  the  beginning  of 
commercial  intercourse  between  the  Western  and  the  Eastern  world,  the 
new  and  the  old.  Trade  grew  so  rapidly  from  this  time  that  within  half 
a  century  Canton  became  the  foremost  commercial  centre  in  the  I^sly 
East,  and  one  among  tlie  few  important  ports  of  the  world's  commerce. 
Nor  was  this  business  wave  felt  only  along  the  seacoast,  for  the  inland 
villages  hundreds  of  miles  away  knew  something  of  it^  force  in  the 
employment  it  gave  to  a  vast  number  of  people  in  the  making  of  articles 


COTTON    PLANTATIONS    AT    NINO  -  PO. 


for  the  foreign  markets.  The  transportation  of  these  goods,  also,  gave 
work  to  a  large  number  who  moved  them,  in  some  cases  thousands  of 
miles,  l)y  the  primitive  methods  known  to  the  Chinese.  But,  wliile  certain 
ones  of  the  masses  received  this  with  pleasure,  it  was  looked  upon  with 
unqualified  disapproval  by  those  in  high  positions,  and  the  revenue  accru- 
ing from  this  output  was  set  down  by  them  as  tribute  from  the  several 
nations,  who  were  filed  in  the  records  of  the  Middle  Kingdom  as  vassals 
to  the  Chinese  empire ! 

Still  there  is  a  dark  side  to  tliis  picture,  reflecting  no  glory  upon  Great 
Britain  or  America,  so  that  the  shadow  of  imperial  greatness  occupying 


the  throne  of  the  oldest  empire  on  earth  had  reason  to  become  concerned. 
Along  with  the  legitimate  trade  came  an  evil  tliat  grew  in  magnitude, 
until  it  threatened  the  ruin  of  the  race.  This  was  the  traffic  in  the  un- 
la.wful  drug,  opium.  To  Great  Britain  belongs  the  lion's  share  of  the 
blame  and  the  shame.  British  India  proved  well  adapted  to  raising  the 
poppy,  and  in  that  country's  eagerness  for  a  market  the  drug  was  sent 
into  China  until  the  emperor  was  compelled  to  issue  an  edict  against 
its  introduction.  This  checked  its  entrance  through  one  avenue  to 
send  it  through  another  with  increased  rapidity  and  volume.  When 
the  legitimate  trader  was  compelled  to  end  his  transactions,  the 
smuggler  stepped  in  to  carry  on  the  infamous  work  in  a  more  doubtful 
manner. 

Under  the  pretence  of  its  being  used  for  medicine,  two  hundred  chests 
of  opium  were  allowed  entrance  into  the  ports  of  China  annually.  Of 
the  vast  number  entered  otherwise  there  is  no  record,  though  the  aggre- 
gate must  have  reached  an  appalling  figure.  The  East  India  Company, 
then  holding  a  controlling  interest  in  the  Asiatic  trade,  quickly  followed 
the  Portuguese  in  this  money-making  scheme.  The  plains  of  India  were 
particularly  adapted  to  raising  the  poppy,  though  it  was  sure  to  leave 
them  sterile,  and  there  were  countless  people  depending  on  these 
grounds  for  their  food ;  but  these  two  facts  were  ignored  in  the  prospect 
of  the  gold  to  be  obtained  in  this  unholy  traffic.  Accordingly,  the  order 
was  given  for  the  people  to  begin  poppy  planting,  and  the  poppy  and 
the  company  flourished,  while  the  inhabitants  of  one  country  suffered 
for  needed  food,  and  those  of  the  other  from  a  deadly  drug,  which  was 
to  woi-k  such  frightful  results.  The  British  government  succeeded  the 
East  India  Company,  and  continued  the  miserable  business.  This  was 
the  tea  party  of  the  Far  East,  with  poppy  as  the  upas  plant.  Some 
years  ago,  as  the  foreign  inhabitants  of  a  Chinese  city  were  driven  out 
under  the  threat  of  death,  the  cry  followed  them  like  the  sentence  of 
a  judge  long  deferred  :  "  You  burned  our  summer  palace ;  you  killed 
our  emperor  ;  you  poison  our  people  ;  you  are  foreign  devils  !  " 

Something  of  the  proportions  assumed  by  this  traffic  may  be  inferred 
from  the  fact  that  over  fifty  craft  in  1840,  flying  the  British  and  Amer- 
ican flags,  were  plying  this  trade  on  Canton  River  alone,  while  elsewhere 
it  was  carried  on  with  an  energy  worthy  of  a  better  cause.     The  Chinese 


CHINA. 


365 


officials,  in  their  desperation,  undertook  more  severe  measures  to  sup- 
press the  trade.  Some  of  tlie  boats  were  seized,  but  they  were  all  so 
heavily  armed  and  defended  with  such  stubbornness  that  the  revenue 
officers  soon  refused  to  meddle  with  them. 

Naturally  such  a  sweeping  progress  nuist  soon  or  late  meet  with  some 
sort  of  a  resistance.  Opium  traffic  had  become  so  widespread  that  even 
Chinese  in  high  positions,  as  high. as  princes,  became  associated  with  it. 
Finally  a  resolute  commissioner  was  sent  from  Pekin  to  Canton  to  stop 


THE    POLO    TEMPLE,    TAI-HOU. 


the  business  at  all  hazards.  The  foreigners  were  peremptorily  ordered  to 
give  up  all  of  the  drug  in  their  hands,  and  to  sign  a  paper  not  to  bring 
any  more  on  penalty  of  death.  In  the  fright  which  followed  over  twelve 
hundred  chests  of  opium  were  given  up  to  the  commissioner.  Armed 
with  the  full  power  of  the  Chinese  government,  and  having  information 
that  far  larger  quantities  were  in  their  possession,  this  official  took  active 
measures  to  cut  off  the  food  supply  of  the  foreign  settlers,  until  every  ounce 
in  their  hands  should  be  turned  over  to  the  Chinese  authorities.  Realis- 
ing that  nothing  could  be  gained  by  holding  out  against  this,  the  super- 
intendent of  British  commerce  ordered  that  the  demand  sliould  l)e  met. 


The  result  was  that  within  ten  hours  over  twenty  thousand  chests  were 
given  up. 

When  the  faithful  commissioner  had  sent  word  to  Pekin  what  he  had 
done,  the  reply  came  back  for  him  to  destroy  every  ounce  of  the  drug. 
This  order  was  carried  out  by  mixing  lime  and  salt  water  with  the  opium 
and  then  running  the  whole  mass  into  the  river.  The  loss  to  the  for- 
eigners wag  claimed  to  be  over  ten  millions  of  dollars,  and  it  aroused 
fierce  and  bitter  feelings.     This  was  in  1839,  and  the  following  year  the 


MANDARIN    PAYING    A    VISIT    OF    CEREMONY. 


British  government  sent  word  to  Captain  Elliott,  in  command  at  Canton, 
to  declare  war  if  China  did  not  indemnify  for  the  loss  of  property.  With 
her  usual  indifference  to  outside  demands,  China  did  not  offer  to  settle, 
and  in  1841  the  port  of  Canton  was  blockaded  by  the  British,  followed 
by  a  bombardment  of  the  fort.  Finding  this  did  not  have  the  desired 
effect,  other  places  were  blockaded.  The  town  of  Ting-hai  was  taken, 
and  the  armed  fleet  moved  up  the  river,  capturing  fort  after  fort,  until 
the  now  alarmed  Chinese  ransomed  their  city  for  six  million  dollars. 

Still  the  emperor,  without  realising  the  actual  strength  of  the  power 
he  was  silently  defying,  remained  inactive,  while  the  fleet  again  moved, 


CHINA.  367 

this  time  northward,  capturing  Amoy,  Chin-hai,  Ning-po,  and  then 
Cha-pu,  where  the  British  met  the  fiercest  fighters  of  the  campaign,  the 
Tartars  of  Manchuria.  Finding  themselves  worsted  at  last,  these  valiant 
defenders  killed  their  wives  and  children,  and  ended  their  own  careers 
by  suicide.  The  forts  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yangtse  Kiang  were  seized, 
Shanghai  captured,  and  Nankin,  the  ancient  capital,  threatened.  Here 
a  most  desperate  resistance  was  made  by  the  Manchu  soldiers,  of  whom, 
out  of  a  force  of  nearly  five  thousand,  less  than  five  hundred  escaped 
with  their  lives. 

At  last  the  eyes  of  the  emperor  were  opened  to  the  peril  of  his  situa- 
tion, and  he  hastened  to  agree  to  a  treaty  of  peace,  among  the  stipula- 
tions being  an  agreement  to  pay  the  British  government  twenty-one 
million  dollars,  and  to  open  to  British  trade  the  five  important  ports  of 
Canton,  Amoy,  Foo-chow,  Ning-po,  and  Shanghai,  while  the  island  upon 
which  Hong-kong  is  situated  was  ceded  to  them. 

One  of  the  results  of  this  war,  which  was  waged  solely  for  the  purpose 
of  forcing  upon  China  a  drug  that  in  its  evils  was  not  to  be  measured, 
was  to  bring  other  foreign  nations  forward  in  a  demand  to  receive  equal 
advantages  with  their  British  neighbour.  In  1844  the  United  States 
obtained  a  treaty  of  commerce,  and  from  that  time  has  maintained  a 
friendly  intercourse.  It  has  been  remarked  that  some  of  the  vessels 
engaged  in  the  opium  traffic  carried  American  flags,  but  this  country  did 
not  become  involved  in  the  war,  and  at  a  later  day  forbade  her  traders 
to  sell  opium  in  China.  There  was  one  firm  whose  name  deserves  to  be 
placed  on  record  as  refusing  to  allow  a  chest  of  opium  to  be  carried  on 
their  ships  from  first  to  last,  —  Messrs.  Oliphant  &  Company. 

Before  dismissing  this  subject  of  the  opium  war,  it  is  only  just  to  admit 
that  the  Chinese  had  lonoi:  been  addicted  to  the  use  of  the  drus:.  Sir 
Robert  Hart,  the  inspector-general  of  the  Chinese  customs,  has  said  : 
"  Native  opium  was  known,  produced,  and  used  long  before  any  Europeans 
began  the  sale  of  the  foreign  drug  along  the  coast."  Opium  trade  with 
India  was  begun  by  the  Portuguese,  though  this  is  no  excuse  for  another 
race  to  take  it  up. 

The  origin  of  the  use  of  the  drug  is  explained  by  Chinese  writers,  who 
do  not  deny  that  in  ancient  days  the  people  were  greatly  addicted  to 
drinking  stimulating  liquor.     As  far  back  as   116   B.C.  the  do^vnfall  of 


the  empire  was  predicted  by  an  imperial  announcement  unless  the  people 
cured  themselves  of  the  vice  of  drink.  Strong  threats  and  penalties  were 
uttered  against  those  who  were  prone  to  the  evil,  and  the  emperor  went 
on  to  say  to  his  officials,  "If  you  learn  of  any  who  drink  in  company, 
seize  them  all  and  send  them  to  me,  and  I  will  put  them  to  death."  The 
"  Shoo-king,"  or  book  of  ancient  history,  and  the  "  Shee-king,"  or  book 
of  early  poetry,  both  frequently  refer  to  the  evil  results  of  drinking 
wine  and  stimulating  liquors.     Even  farther  back  than  this  it  must  have 


A    LJll.\Kt!.K    JLNK,    CANTON    KXVEK. 


existed  to  an  alarming  extent,  for  the  writings  of  Confucius  and  Mencius, 
478  and  388  b.  c,  respectively,  contain  frequent  warnings  against  the 
habit.  In  fact,  the  love  of  play  and  drink,  to  the  neglect  of  filial  duties, 
seems  to  have  been  one  of  the  greatest  sins  from  which  they  tried  to  save 
their  followers. 

A  great  check  came  to  this  national  evil  upon  the  introduction  of  the 
Buddhist  religion  into  China.  But  if  this  religion  could  stop  in  a  great 
measure  this  form  of  weakness,  it  could  not  allay  the  human  thirst  for 
stimulant  of  some  kind.  Buddhism  did  not  forbid  the  use  of  opium,  and 
the  Chinaman  who  laid  aside  his  drinking  glass  simply  substituted  the 


CHINA. 


369 


pipe.  Whether  the  change  were  a  benefit  to  him  it  is  not  for  us  to  judge. 
Certainly  there  is  not  a  race  on  earth,  as  far  as  our  knowledge  goes,  who 
can  reasonably  fling  the  first  stone.  Opium  was  cheaper  and  more  con- 
venient than  the  wines  and  liquors  he  had  been  drinking,  and  he  repre- 
sents a  race  poor  and  avaricious  by  nature.  The  results  obtained  by 
the  drug  seem  in  such  wonderful  harmony  with  the  Buddhist  scheme  of 
Nirvana  that  it  is  not  altogether  improbable  that  one  suggested  the  other. 
The  influence  of  the  drug  is  of  that  nature  which  causes  the  poor  man 


VILLAGE    ON    THE    CANAL    NEAU    CANTON. 


to  lose  sight  of  his  poverty,  and  become  insensible  to  the  pangs  of  disease. 
Even  in  dreams  he  is  for  the  time  being  lord  of  a  beautiful  palace,  and 
though  temporarily,  he  has  found  that  Nirvana,  the  desire  and  end  of  all 
good  Buddhists.  If  the  awakening  shows  him  the  passing  of  an  illusion, 
he  has  only  to  repeat  his  experiment. 

Of  course  government  made  from  the  first  strenuous  efforts  to  stop 
the  use  of  opium,  though  without  avail.  It  began  to  be  raised  in  China 
as  soon  as  there  was  a  demand  for  it,  and  at  the  present  time  it  is 
extensively  cultivated  in  the  provinces  of  Yunnan,  Szechuan,  Manchuria, 
and  Mongolia.      The  amount  grown  in  the   Chinese  empire  equals   that 


raised  in  the  whole  of  Hindustan.  The  trouble  is  that  the  Indian  poppy 
is  superior  to  that  produced  in  China,  and  the  Chinaman  who  can  afford 
it  will  have  the  former  if  possible. 

In  regard  to  the  effect  of  the  use  of  the  drug,  there  is  no  doubt  that 
this  has  been  overstated.  The  examples  taken  for  warning  were  those 
of  the  very  worst  type.  The  Indian  opium  in  its  unadulterated  form 
does  not  seem  to  have  done  any  alarming  harm,  notwithstanding  all  that 
has  been  said.  The  sensational  writer  who  has  pictured  so  vividly  the 
opium  "  den,"  would  do  well  to  look  nearer  home  before  he  condemns  a 
whole  race,  which  has  shown  itself  to  be  one  of  the  hardiest  and  most 
industrious  on  earth.'  It  has  been  said  that  the  poppy  creates  paupers, 
but  there  is  no  real  proof  of  this  statement.  In  reality,  as  incongruous  as 
it  may  seem,  a  Chinaman's  remarkable  industry  is  the  worst  enemy  to  his 
progress.  He  is  too  willing  to  do  sixteen  hours  of  work  for  six  hours'  pay. 
In  short,  the  use  of  opium  can  be  stopped  at  any  time  the  person  using 
it  wishes,  as  truly  as  the  habit  of  tobacco  smoking  can  be  ended.  It  does 
not  demoralise  more  than  the  use  of  intoxicating  drinks ;  neither  is  it  a 
worse  enemy  to  long  life  and  happiness  than  intemperance.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  benefits  arising  from  its  use  are  equal  to,  if  not  greater,  than 
those  coming  from  alcohol.  The  Chinese  prescribe  opium  for  various 
ailments,  such  as  neuralgia,  rheumatism,  cold  in  the  head,  colic,  cancer, 
asthma,  pulmonary  consumption,  —  a  remedy  which  has  quick  effect 
without  leaving  any  of  the  bad  after  results  following  the  American  use 
of  opiates.  Lord  Lansdowne,  Viceroy  of  India,  probably  stated  a  truth 
when  he  said :  "  If  a  stroke  of  a  pen  were  to  deprive  us  of  opium  revenue 
to-morrow,  the  consumption  of  the  drug  would  continue  in  spite  of  us, 
and  it  is  as  much  beyond  our  power  to  put  an  end  to  the  use  of  opium 
in  India  and  China  as  it  would  be  beyond  the  power  of  the  friends  of 
temperance  in  England  to  put  absolute  stop  to  the  consumption  of  intoxi- 
cating liquors  in  that  country."  Both  are  great  evils  which  are  likely  to 
exist  until  man  shall  be  able  to  command  his  appetites. 

The  old  saying,  "  that  it  is  an  ill  wind  that  blows  nobody  good,"  was 
proved  true  in  the  case  of  China,  for  in  spite  of  the  bitter  humiliation 
she  suffered,  the  empire  was  benefited  in  the  matter  of  foreign  intercourse. 
But  the  reign  of  peace  was  of  short  duration,  as  it  was  broken  in  1856 
through  the  seizure  of  a  native  vessel  bearing  the  flag  of  Great  Britain. 


,v,ti»*«l»**<- 


■ASW^' 


1    \(I()1)A     AT     NlN(il'0. 


CHINA. 


371 


For  this  indignity  against  their  national  standard  the  British  demanded 
an  apology.  This  was  refused.  Again  Canton  was  bombarded  and  her^ 
forts  destroyed.  The  French  this  time  joined  with  the  English,  and, 
finding  her  fleet  of  war-ships  disabled  and  Canton  in  the  hands  of  her 
enemies,  China,  who  had  not  forgotten  the  opium  war,  consented  to  allow 
the  foreigners  greater  privileges.  But  the  victors  were  not  satisfied  with 
the  request  to  treat  at  Canton,  and  asked  that  it  be  done  at  the  imperial 
capital.     Their  fleets  sailed  to  Tien-tsin,  the  port  of  Pekin,  situated  at 


THK    srErTACI.K    OK 


•r.\     AMI     .MOON. 


the  mouth  of  the  Pei-Ho.  Russia  and  the  United  States  agreed  to  enter 
into  the  proposed  treaty,  but  started  to  go  to  the  capital  overland,  while 
the  British  and  French  resolved  to  take  their  ships  up  the  river.  In 
consequence,  they  became  entangled  in  an  encounter  with  the  Chinese, 
and  suffered  a  humiliating  defeat.  The  incensed  powers  now  decided  to 
carry  war  to  the  very  capital  of  the  Middle  Kingdom,  and  the  proceedings 
for  the  treaty  of  peace  were  abruptly  ended. 

The  following  year  fighting  w^as  begun  in  earnest  by  the  allied  powers, 
when  again  the  brave  soldiers  of  the  north  showed  their  valour  in  a 
hotly  contested  battle.     For  the  first  time  the  bold  Tartars  matched  their 


bows,  arrows,  and  spears  against  modern  implements  of  warfare,  to  find 
at  last  a  foeman  more  than  worthy  of  their  prowess.  The  explosion  of 
a  shell  in  their  midst  sent  the  dashing  cavalry  flying  in  every  direction. 
The  way  was  soon  cleared  to  the  imperial  capital,  upon  which  the  officers 
of  the  allies  gazed  for  the  first  time  by  climbing  upon  the  tops  of  some 
brick  kilns  overgrown  with  grass. 

An  attack  was  made  on  the  5th  of  October,  1860,  by  the  allied  armies 
simultaneously  from  two  points,  and,  though  the  Chinese  made  a  desper- 
ate resistance,  the  result  was  sw^ft  and  inevitable.  The  emperor,  upon 
hearing  of  the  swift  and  destructive  advance  of  the  allied  forces  toward 
his  capital,  instead  of  remaining  to  meet  them  at  the  head  of  his  army, 
sought  safety  by  flying  to  the  imperial  pleasure-ground. 

Upon  finding  that  the  feeble  representative  of  Chinese  power  had  fled, 
the  British  and  French  hastened  with  all  speed  possible  to  the  summer 
palace,  a  walled  enclosure  standing  a  few  miles  north  of  Pekin,  hoping 
to  catch  the  imperial  fugitive  there.  But  he  had  gone  from  here  to  that 
grand  enclosure  on  the  edge  of  the  wide-spreading  plains  of  Tartary  and 
outside  of  the  Great  Wall,  which  has  been  described  as  it  was  in  the 
days  of  Kublai. 

The  summer  palace  had  been  left  in  charge  of  some  three  hundred 
eunuchs,  who  had  been  instructed  by  their  cowardly  emperor  "  to  make 
a  gallant  defence."  The  eunuchs  did  make  a  short  and  sharp  resistance 
at  the  gate,  but  the  French  speedily  put  them  to  rout,  and  the  sacred 
entrance  to  the  imperial  grounds,  where  only  the  "  sublime  ruler "  and 
a  few  faithful  followers  had  ever  been  allowed  to  pass,  was  now  trodden 
by  the  sacrilegious  feet  of  the  foreign  invaders.  What  the  feelings  of 
these  victorious  "  barbarians  "  were,  as  their  spurred  heels  clanked  on  the 
marble  floor  before  the  emperor's  "  divine  throne,"  can  only  be  imagined. 
How  strangely  their  foreign  tongues  must  have  echoed  through  the  great 
palace  hall  where  silence  had  reigned  so  long,  and  where  only  silent 
attendants  had  crept  with  bowed  form  and  cringing  spirit  to  do  homage 
to  the  austere  "  Brother  of  the  Sun  and  Moon,"  is  left  for  the  imagination 
to  picture. 

In  describing  the  imperial  scene  Swinhoe  has  said :  "  The  emperor  is 
seated  on  his  ebony  throne,  attired  in  a  yellow  robe  wrought  over  with 
dragons  in  gold  thread,  his  head  surmounted  with  a  spherical  crown  of 


CHINA. 


373 


gold  and  precious  stones,  with  pearl  drops  suspended  around  on  light  gold 
chains.  His  eunuchs  and  ministers,  in  court  costume,  are  ranged  on 
either  side  on  their  knees,  and  his  guard  of  honour  and  musicians  drawn 
up  in  two  lines  in  the  courtyard  without.  The  name  of  the  distinguished 
person  to  be  introduced  is  called  out,  and  as  he  approaches  the  band 
strikes  up.  He  draws  near  the  awful  throne,  and,  looking  on  the  ground, 
drops  on  his  knees  before  the  central  steps.  He  removes  his  hat  from 
his   head,  and   places   it   on   the   throne  floor  with  its   peacock  feather 


CITY    OF    NING-PO,    FROM    THE    KIVER. 

toward  the  imperial  donor.  The  emperor  moves  his  hand,  and  down 
goes  the  humble  head,  and  the  forehead  strikes  on  the  step  three  times 
three.  The  head  is  then  raised,  but  the  eyes  are  still  meekly  lowered, 
as  the  imperial  voice  in  thrilling  accents  pronounces  the  behest  of  the 
great  master.  The  voice  hushed,  down  goes  the  head  again,  and  ac- 
knowledges the  sovereign  right,  and  the  privileged  individual  is  allowed 
to  withdraw."  The  scene  described  is  not  imaginary,  but  warranted  by 
the  accounts  of  the  natives. 

In  the  place  of  this  imperial  vanity  was  now  a  scene  of  wild  disorder 
and  ruin.     The  rare  treasures  of  the  absent  emperor  were  divided  between 


the  leaders  of  the  invading  soldiery,  that  they  might  be  sent  as  gifts  to 
their  royal  rulers.  General  Montauban  ordered  that  no  looting  should 
follow  their  capture  until  the  British  had  reached  the  scene.  But  the 
temptation  surrounding  them  proved  too  much  for  the  cupidity  of  offi- 
cers as  well  as  soldiers,  so  that  before  their  allies  reached  the  palace  the 
miserable  work  of  despoliation  and  plunder  had  begun.  Upon  the  arrival 
of   the  British  on  the  7th  all  restrictions  were  removed,  and  what  the 


A  FOUNTAIN  COURT  IN  CANTON. 


invaders  could  not  carry  off   was  destroyed,  and  finally  the  magnificent 
buildins;  itself  was  o-iven  over  to  the   torch. 

From  the  descriptions  given  of  the  place  by  those  who  were  present, 
we  learn  that  the  sacred  enclosure  covered  a  broad  extent  of  territory, 
and  contained,  scattered  over  hills  and  valleys,  many  of  the  former  made 
by  man,  palaces,  temples,  and  pagodas,  set  amid  gardens  of  great  beauty 
and  luxury.  Some  of  the  artificial  hills  with  terraced  slopes  were  from 
three  to  four  hundred  feet  in  altitude  and  covered  with  forests,  from 
amid  the  foliage  of  which  gleamed  the  palace  roofs,  made  conspicuous  by 
their  bright  yellow  tiles.  An  artificial  lake  having  several  islands  was 
not  least  among  the  attractions,  the  shores  of  this  set  with  grottoes  and 


CHINA.  375 

gardens  of  flowers,  with  flowering  creepers  running  to  the  water's  edge, 
making  one  of  the  emperor's  favourite  walks.  In  places  the  promenade 
was  laid  across  beautiful  stone  arches  and  terraces  built  over  the  water. 
This  scene  of  mimic  grandeur  was  made  doubly  glorious  by  the  background 
of  high  mountains. 

From  the  work  of  desolation  done  here  the  allied  armies  headed  again 
for  the  imperial  capital,  and  on  the  12th,  as  the  besiegers  stood  at  the 
Anting  gate  waiting  to  know  if  the  Chinese  would  surrender  peacefully 
or  force  them  to  an  attack,  word  came  that  the  officials  of  the  doomed 
capital  had  chosen  to  yield  without  resistance.  Immediately  the  British 
and  French  marched  through  the  gate  with  drums  beating  and  flags  fly- 
ing, while  the  Chinese  retreated  in  dismay. 

In  answer  to  the  demand  for  a  release  of  all  foreign  prisoners,  the 
Chinese  surrendered  several  persons  whom  they  had  been  holding  in 
captivity,  and  the  bodies  of  a  few  others.  The  pitiable  condition  of  the 
living  and  the  evidence  of  suffering  which  had  caused  the  untimely  fate 
of  the  dead  so  aroused  the  British  spectators  that  only  the  solemn  pledge 
that  the  safety  of  the  city  should  be  maintained  upon  the  condition  of 
capitulation  saved  Pekin  from  being  ravaged  by  the  frenzied  soldiers. 
As  it  was,  in  spite  of  the  advice  and  example  of  the  French,  their  wrath 
was  hurled  upon  the  suburbs,  which  they  claimed  were  not  included  in 
the  terms  of  surrender  made  at  the  gate.  A  vandalism  was  begun  too 
shocking  to  be  described.  "  Soon  flames  appeared  above  the  devoted 
structures,  and  long  columns  of  smoke  rose  to  the  sky,  increasing  in 
width  and  density  as  the  day  waned,  until  the  canopy  of  smoke  hung 
like  a  vast  storm-cloud  over  Pekin,  and  the  sorrowful  eyes  of  those  on 
the  walls  saw  the  flashing  fire,  that  told  of  the  swift  destruction  of  what 
it  had  taken  centuries  to  build."  The  work  of  destruction  and  pillage 
went  on  for  two  shameful  days,  which  it  would  be  better  for  Great 
Britain  to  efface,  were  it  possible,  from  the  pages  of  her  history.  It 
was  estimated  that  property  to  the  enormous  value  of  over  ten  million 
dollars  was  destroyed. 

It  was  useless  for  the  Chinese  to  murmur,  and  the  humiliated  power 
ivas  forced  to  accept  the  inevitable  with  as  good  grace  as  possible.  Lord 
Elgin  gave  the  distracted  emperor  a  fixed  time  in  which  to  sign  the 
treaty  for  which  they  had  come  hither*  or  else  to  suffer  the  consequence 


of  seeing  the  palace  of  Pekin  seized,  and  the  Forbidden  City  razed  to  the 
ground. 

There  was  no  alternative  for  the  Chinese,  and  they  sued  humbly  for 
the  cessation  of  hostilities.  To  show  his  triumph,  the  arrogant  Lord 
Elgin  was  conveyed  in  a  magnificent  sedan-chair  to  the  treaty  hall  at 
the  head  of  eighty  thousand  British  soldiers,  and  then  borne  by  a  party 
of  coolies  through  all  of  the  principal  streets  of  Pekin,  watched  by  the 
Chinese  with  amazement  and  terror.     This  was  on  the  24th  of  October, 


*=^ 


i-i'JJ^ 


'         ■         '^'      -'-/^ 


C'lllXKSE    PA(i()l>A,    liKTWEEN    CANTON    AND    WHAMPUA. 


1860,  and,  at  the  completion  of  the  treaty,  the  Chinese  tendered  a  ban- 
quet to  the  victors,  which  was  declined  by  the  British,  who  dared  not  trust 
them,  fearing  the  food  might  be  poisoned.  The  French,  however,  accepted 
a  similar  offer,  and  fared  none  the  worse  for  it,  while  winning  thereby 
the  confidence  of  their  hosts. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  from  the  beginning  to  this  important  treaty 
the  introduction  of  Europe  to  China  had  not  been  such  as  to  gain  either 
the  confidence  or  the  friendship  of  the  Celestials.  But  if  a  rude  awaken- 
ing, from  that  eventful  day  in  October  China  began  to  be  known  to  the 
rest  of  the  world.     Thirteen  years   later,  in    1873,   when   the   emperor 


CHINA.  377 

Tung-chi  attained  his  majority,  lie  revoked  the  decree  demanding  the 
kotow,  so  that  foreign  ambassadors  were  at  last  allowed  the  freedom 
accorded  by  other  rulers  when  coming  into  the  imperial  presence,  thus 
acknowledging  them  his  equal.  The  representative  of  Japan  was  first 
favoured  in  this  respect,  while  the  United  States  came  next,  and  then 
Russia,  Great  Britain,  France,  and  the  MetherJands. 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 

THE    TAIPING    REBELLION. 

ALTHOUGH  an  agricultural  people  and  not  a  fighting  race,  never 
seeking  the  glamour  of  battle  and  the  music  of  arms  as  the  Jap- 
anese have  done,  the  Chinese  have  a  history  written  in  crimson 
characters,  each  page  filled  with  the  killing  of  people  by  the  wholesale, 
until  it  would  seem  to  the  modern  reader  as  if  the  slaughter  of  helpless 
men,  women,  and  children  was  carried  on  as  a  pastime.     According  to 
the  custom  of   those  warlike  days  few  victories   failed  to   be  followed 
by  the  death  of  so  many  of  the  conquered  people  that  the  depopulation 
of -the  country  seemed  inevitable.     Add  to  these  startling  numhers  the 
appalling  loss  of  life  from  epidemics,  disease,  and  disasters,  and  only  one 
result  appears  in  view,  and  that  the  ultimate  disappearance  of  the  race. 
Not  only  in  scattered  regions  of  the  great  country  have  villages,  towns, 
and  cities  been  swept  out  of  existence,  leaving  no  trace  to  speak  of  their 
unhappy  fate,  but,  says  Colonel  W.  W.  Rockhill,  an  American  who  has 
lived  many  years  in  China,  "  so  bitter  and  relentless  has  been  the  spirit 
of  the  conquerors,  that   whole  provinces   of   the   Chinese   Empire   once 
densely  populated  now  are  little  more  than  deserts."     As  an  illustration 
of  this  terrible  work  of  desolation,  it  is  said  that  in  the  early  part  of 
the  fifteenth  century  the  nephew  of  Hung  Wu,  the  founder  of  the  Ming 
dynasty,  made  such  a  raid  through  what  was  then  known  as  the  Yen 
province,  that  he  is  credited  with  putting  to  death  every  person  in  his 
pathway.     The  extent  of   this  horrible  slaughter  of  human  lives,  whose 
only  crime  was  the  fact  that  they  belonged  to  the  following  of  one  prince 
at  war  with  another,  may  be  better  imderstood  when  it  is  taken  into 
consideration  that  this  depopulated  district  stretched  from  the   Yangtse 
Kiang  to  Pekin,  a  distance  of  more  than  five  hundred  miles  through  the 
richest  plains  of  the  Far  East.     This  fearful  act  of  retribution  went  into 
history  as  "  Yen  "Wang's  sweeping  the  north,"  and  to  restore  this  large 
tract  of   country  emigration  from  other  parts  of  the  empire  was    made 


CHINA. 


.S79 


imperative,  and  hence  a  great  number  of  people  from  the  southern  prov- 
inces were  settled  over  the  depopulated  country.  In  spite  of  this  remorse- 
less warfare  upon  human  life,  the  million  of  people  with  whom  history 
begins  has  multiplied  and  compounded,  until  to-day  the  population  of  the 
empire  has  increased  four  hundred  fold. 

Chinese  justice  is  founded  upon  Chinese  ideals  of  what  is  right  and 
wrong.  This  must  always  be  borne  in  mind  wdien  judging  the  race,  in 
order  to  reach  anything  like  a  just  comparison.  We  have  seen  that  the 
history  of  the  em- 
pire is  made  up 
largely  of  insurrec- 
tions and  rebellions, 
one  faction  against 
another,  and  all 
against  the  emperor 
in  the  end.  So 
long  as  the  head  of 
the  government 
ruled  with  what  his 
subjects  considered 
wisdom  and  hu- 
manity he  was  sure 
of  ardent  support- 
ers, but  as  soon  as 
he  incurred  their 
displeasure  or  doubt 
his  couch  was  a  bed 
of  thorns.  In  this 
respect  the  Chinese  were  different  from  the  Japanese,  who  never  ad- 
mitted that  their  emperor  was  in  error.  The  machinery  of  the  govern- 
ment might  not  be  working  right,  but,  however  heavy  fell  its  burdens, 
it  was  the  fault  of  its  lower  officials,  and  not  that  of  its  sacred  head. 

It  was  under  this  spirit  of  dissatisfaction  with  the  old  regime  that  the 
Chinese  submitted  to  be  governed  by  the  Manchu  dynasty.  This  line 
began  by  meriting  their  favour,  and  for  several  generations  displayed 
great  wisdom  and  strength.     Then,  like  those  that  had  preceded  it,  the 


BUDDHIST    WOMEN    AT    TIIEIK    DEVOTIONS. 


line  weakened,  going  rapidly  from  bad  to  worse.  It  was  at  its  worst  in 
the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century.  In  the  midst  of  wide-spread 
murmurings  of  dissensions  and  rebellions  the  emperor  died,  leaving  his 
son  ill-propared   and   little  disposed    to  check   the  general   uprisings,   and 

the  result  was  that 
a  youth  professing 
to  belong  to  the 
Ming  dynasty  was 
proclaimed  ruler. 

He  had  barely 
ascended  the  throne 
before  rebellion 
broke  out  that  was 
to  prove  in  many 
ways  the  strongest, 
most  vital  in  its 
aims,  and  certainly 
the  most  remark- 
able in  the  long  list 
of  attempted  revo- 
lutions. It  was  the 
strongest  because 
led  by  one  of  the 
ablest  men  that 
China  ever  knew ; 
it  was  the  most 
powerful  because  it 
was  a  religious  re- 
volt, which  means 
more  in  China  than 
in  any  other  land ;  it  was  the  strangest  because  it  was  a  Christian  in- 
surrection headed  by  a  disciple  of  Confucius,  who  claimed  to  have  found 
through  dreams  special  inspiration  from  Christ. 

This  powerful  religious  leader  was  the  son  of  a  simple  peasant  living 
in  a  suburb  of  Canton.  His  name  was  Hung  Su-tseuen,  who  declared 
that  for  forty  days  in  succession  he  had  dreamed  that  he  was  called  upon 


(  IIIXESE    LADIES    IN    KOHEIGN    DRES!^ 


CHINA.  381 

to  tear  down  the  idols  of  his  people  and  teach  them  the  true  God.  He 
did  not  act  at  once,  however,  but  the  idea  seemed  to  sleep  until  he  acci- 
x*  dentally  ran  across  a  pamphlet  containing  several  chapters  from  the  New 
Testament.  Upon  reading  this,  he  exclaimed  that  he  was  the  chosen  one 
of  God  to  spread  the  light  of  his  religion  over  benighted  China. 

Among  the  first  to  be  converted  to  his  belief  was  one  named  Fung 
Yun-san,  who  soon  proved  to  be  just  the  man  he  needed  to  help  carry  on 
his  work,  the  new  convert  proving  himself  to  be  a  great  soldier.  The 
two,  working  together,  immediately  began  a  religious  tour  of  the  country, 
making  believers  wherever  they  went.  The  officials  became  alarmed  at 
the  great  number  of  their  people  renouncing  the  time-honoured  doctrines 
of  their  ancestors,  and  resolved  to  strike  a  prompt  blow  at  this  new  creed 
which  aimed  at  a  destruction  of  the  idols,  in  wliich  resolve  they  were 
quickly  seconded  by  the  priests,  who  foresaw  their  own  loss  of  support  if 
these  evangelists  of  doctrines  so  foreign  to  their  own- were  not  checked. 
Accordingly,  many  of  the  disciples  of  Hung  Su-tseuen  were  arrested  and 
thrown  into  prison,  among  the  others  Fiing  Yun-san.  But  this  course 
of  action  failed  to  gain  the-  object  intended,  as  it  aroused  the  people  to 
renewed  interest  in  the  coming  creed.  Fung  Yun-san  even  converted  his 
captors,  and  made  proselytes  of  the  very  soldiers  sent  to  guard  him ! 

Then  tlie  religious  uprising  took  a  strange  twist.  Many  of  Hung's 
converts  were  bitterly  opposed  to  the  Manchu  dynasty,  and  this  fact, 
coupled  with  the  powerful  religious  excitement,  caused  a  more  rapid 
increase  of  the  movement  than  before.  Taking  advantage  of  this  situa- 
tion, Hung  now  declared  himself  an  agent  sent  from  heaven  to  overpower 
the  Tartar  rulers,  to  establish  a  Chinese  emperor  on  the  throne,  and  to 
install  the  Christian  religion  in  the  temples  of  the  land. 

The  wildest  invasion  in  the  history  of  the  empire  Avas  then  begun  by 
the  army  of  Hung,  commanded  by  Fung  Yun-san,  who  swept  down  the 
Yangtse  Kiang,  carrying  everything  before  him.  It  was  the  custom  of 
the  insurgents  to  kneel  before  going  into  battle  and  to  pray  to  God  for 
success,  after  wliich  they  would  spring  to  arms  with  a  fury  and  fanaticism 
that  even  the  Tartars  could  not  cope  with  successfully.  Everywhere  the 
imperial  troops  were  routed,  until  the  whole  empire  became  filled  with 
dismay  or  frenzied  rejoicing.  Nothing  like  it  had  ever  been  seen  in 
China.     The  victors  observed  the   Sabbath  with  religious  zeal,  and  the 


doom  of  the  ancient  faith  seemed  certain.  Europeans,  who  met  these 
followers  of  Christianity,  were  treated  with  the  highest  friendship,  and 
looked  upon  as  "  brothers,"  fellow  worshippers  of  "  Yesu,"  or  Jesus.  ^ 

Hung  marched  his  victorious  army  over  a  thousand  miles,  conquering 
every  city  and  town  in  his  pathway,  to  pause  finally  at  Wu-chang.     From 


'5:^s«53*«- 


spoi'byCjft'     Dddart  1") 


DICE  -  PLAYERS,    NEAR    AMOY. 


this  place  he  marched  upon  the  ancient  capital  of  the  empire,  Nankin, 
which  fell  into  his  hands.  Here  he  established  his  capital,  proclaiming 
himself  emperor  under  the  title  of  Teen  Wang,  or  "  Heavenly  King." 
The  dynasty  thus  attempted  he  named  the  "  Taiping,"  which  meant 
"  Brotherhood  of  the  People." 

From  this  standpoint  the  insurgents  pushed  out  north  and  south, — 
south  as  far  as  Indo-China,  the  four  great  cities  of  Central  China  falling 


CHINA. 


38;: 


into  their  power;  north  as  far  as  Pekin,  Tien-tsin  heing  occupied  Ijy 
tliem  at  the  time  of  the  march  of  the  British  and  French  upon  Pekin.  It 
will  thus  be  seen  that  the  Manchu  dynasty  had  this  mighty  uprising  on 
liand  at  the  time  of  the  second  war  with  Great  Britain.  In  reality  it 
was  largely  due  to  this  fact  that  tlie  imperial  city  fell  such  an  easy  prey 
to  the  allied  powers. 

As  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  capture  of  the  Manchu  capital  by  the 
allied  armies  proved  a  worse  blow  to  the  Taiping  revolutionists  than  it 


KITK  -FLYING. 


did  to  the  enfeebled  Tartars.  This  was  due  to  the  fact  that  these  foreign 
conquerors  ignored  the  professions  of  Hung  and  his  followers  that  they 
believed  in  the  Christian  faith,  and  that  of  all  the  mobs  of  China  tliis 
was  the  only  one  likely  to  allow  the  incoming  strangers  a  friendly  recep- 
tion, and  to  be  willing  to  build  up  a  trade  with  them.  The  little  matter 
of  trade  in  the  illicit  drug,  opium,  seemed  to  bear  more  weight  with  the 
allies  than  all  else,  as  shameful  as  this  seems  in  the  light  of  later  develop- 
ments. The  Taiping  government  at  Nankin  had  shown  the  nu)ral  courage 
to  try  and  put  down  this  miserable  traffic,  and  its  emperor  issued  an  order 


to  seize  all  Chinese  vessels  laden  with  the  drug.  Then  the  British  ships 
treated  the  Taiping  junks  as  pirates,  and  in  the  bloody  scenes  that  fol- 
lowed, British  sailors  and  soldiers  mingled  freely  with  the  combined  forces 
of  the  Chmese  and  the  French,  who  favoured  the  import  of  the  drug. 
The   British  participated  in  over  forty  battles  and  massacres,  in  which, 


CLEANING    COTTON. 


as  nearly  as  can  be  estimated,  over  four  hundred  thousand  Chinese 
Christians  were  killed !  In  all  that  terrible  riot  of  fighting  and  famine 
caused  by  the  war  two  million  of  Taipings  died  of  starvation. 

In  reality,  the  overthrow  of  the  Taipings  was  due  mainly  to  the  untiring 
efforts  and  military  genius  of  two  men,  one  of  whom  was  an  American 
and  the  other  an  Englishman,  the,  second  winning  undying  fame  from 
his  countrymen  through  that  campaign  as  *'  Chinese   Gordon,"   the  first. 


CHINA. 


385 


long  since  forgotten  by  his  countrymen,  and  now  sleeping  beneath  a 
magnificent  mausoleum  at  Ning-po,  where  the  grateful  Chinese  have 
erected  a  shrine  to  his  memory,  which  is  kept  fresh  by  ever-burning 
incense. 

The  American's  name  was  Frederick  Townsend  Ward,  and  he  was  a 


[t 

2^ 

0' 

k 

THE    STOCKING  -  MAKER. 


native  of  Salem,  Massachusetts.  He  happened  to  be  in  Shanghai  at 
the  height  of  the  Taiping  outbreaks,  and  he  saw  at  once  that  the  Chinese 
army  needed  greater  discipline  in  order  to  effect  the  overthrow  of  the 
rebels.  He  offered  his  services  to  the  British,  who  did  not  look  favourably 
upon  him,  and  laughed  at  his  offer  to  capture  the  Chinese  cities  from 


the  insurrectionists  cat  so  much  each.     But  Ward  had  early  oi)portunity 
to  prove  the  worth  of  his  promises. 

Shanghai  was  in  danger  of  an  attack,  and  the  merchants  resolved  to 
form  a  foreign  regiment  to  be  in  readiness  to  meet  the  rebels.  Mr.  Ward 
and  another  American  adventurer  named  Burgevine  were  selected  to  do 
the  recruiting.  The  latter  was  a  native  of  the  State  of  North  Carolina, 
whose  father  had  been  an  officer  under  Napoleon ;  he  himself  was  well 
educated  and  a  man  of  great  ability,  though  he  had  thrown  away  the 
bright  prospects  of  his  life  to  become  a  wanderer  over  the  world.  It 
seemed  natural  that  he  should  be  in  China  at  this  time. 

Ward  and  he  quickly  mustered  the  foreigners  to  meet  the  enemy,  and 
the  impatient  couple,  soon  tiring  of  waiting  for  the  foe  to  come  to  them, 
marched  upon  Ning-po  and  captured  the  city  from  the  undisciplined 
troops  of  the  "  Heavenly  King."  Fired  with  the  enthusiasm  of  this 
victory,  Ward  began  to  increase  his  little  army  with  Chinese  recruits, 
and  possessing  a  natural  military  tact,  began  to  drill  his  soldiers.  Of 
course  he  was  still  laughed  at,  but  he  persevered  so  well  that  from  his 
ridiculous  file  of  raw  recruits  he  evolved  the  army  which  w^as  to  become 
famous  the  world  over.  Then  he  set  to  work  retaking  the  cities  in  the 
hands  of  the  rebels,  and  so  successful  was  he  that  in  a  short  time  he 
was  offered  more  followers  than  he  needed.  The  people  looked  on  with 
amazement  when  they  found  him  victorious  against  ten  times  his  numbers, 
and  his  troops  became  known  as  the  "  Ever-victorious  Army,"  though 
it  must  be  understood  that  he  was  coping  with  one  of  the  bravest  and 
most  skilful  generals  China  ever  had.  In  the  midst  of  the  following 
stirring  scenes  General  Fung  Yun-san  made  his  memorable  march  of 
five  hundred  miles  over  the  mountains  of  Kwangsi  in  order  to  save  an 
imperilled  town.  But  though  a  brave  soldier,  he  lacked  the  ability  to 
train  his  men  that  Ward  had. 

General  Ward  had  now  about  six  thousand  men  under  him,  and  he 
was  following  up  victory  after  victory,  when  at  the  moment  of  triumph, 
as  the  imperial  standard  was  being  planted  on  the  w^orks  of  a  small  town 
in  the  vicinity  of  Hangchow  named  Tseki,  he  was  killed  by  a  random 
shot. 

The  death  of  General  Ward  was  a  serious  loss  to  the  imperial  army, 
which  under  his  command  was  likely  to  end  the  Taiping  rebellion  in  a 


CHINA. 


387 


short  time.  His  body  was  borne  to  Ning-po  with  all  the  reverence  due 
a  great  warrior,  and  to  this  day  his  shrine  is  daily  visited  by  pious 
Chinese,  who  look  upon  him  as  next  to  Confucius,  the  noblest  of  men. 


POLICEMAN    AND    PIMSONER. 


Having  once  served  in  the  French  army,  and  having  at  another  time, 
during  the  affair  of  the  Trent,  prevented  the  British  from  seizing  some 
American  ships  in  Chinese  waters,  he  incurred  the  dislike  of  the  English 
and  thus  received  but  scant  praise.  There  is  no  doubt  that  he  deserved 
far  more  credit  than  he  has  ever  been  accorded. 


With  the  death  of  General  Ward  the  command  of  the  "  Ever-victorious 
Army "  fell  to  Burgevine,  who  failed  to  lead  with  the  success  of  the 
*  former.  He  soon  got  into  disputes  with  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  governor 
of  Kwang-su,  and  was  ingloriously  dismissed  in  January,  1863.  Two 
others  as  unsuccessful  succeeded  him,  when  Charles  Gordon,  a  young 
man  of  thirty,  who  had  just  been  l^reveted  major,  was  given  command 
of  the  army  built  up  by  Ward.  Again  victory  perched  upon  its  banner, 
city  after  city  fell  before  its  invincible  attacks,  until  at  last  "  Chinese " 
Gordon  stormed  the  walls  of  the  Taiping  caj^ital  with  his  ''  Ever-vic- 
torious Army."  Here  the  brave  defenders  of  Chinese  Christianity  made 
their  last  stand ;  here  for  three  da3'S  the  streets  were  rivers  of  blood. 
The  emperor,  finding  himself  and  his  cause  hopelessly  lost,  committed 
suicide,  and  the  few  of  his  followers  who  escaped  fled  to  the  mountains. 
Thus  ended  the  most  remarkable  uprising  that  China  ever  knew  in  her 
long  list  of  rebellions,  but  it  fell  only  before  foreign  arms  and  foreign 
military  prowess. 

While  there  may  have  been  many  features  in  this  rebellion  objection- 
able to  the  foreigner,  in  it  lay  China's  great  and  only  hope  of  redemption 
from  Manchu  rule.  Under  the  new  resfime  what  the  future  mio;ht  have 
been  no  one  could  liave  safely  forecast,  but  all  the  evidence  tends  to  show 
that  the  empire  was  upon  the  tidal  wave  of  a  popular  moral  and  political 
reform,  which  would  have  been  of  vast  benefit  to  China  and  the  world. 
But  foreign  intervention  set  the  clock  of  Chinese  progress  back  one  hun- 
dred years.  The  truism  uttered  by  its  hero,  Chinese  Gordon,  in  the 
Sudan  twenty  years  later  applied  as  aptly  here :  "  What  a  farce,  if  it 
did  not  deal  with  human  lives ! " 


CHAPTER    XXXir. 

FOREIGN    INFLUENCE. 

THE  foreign  population  had  been  growing  faster  than  ever  before 
with  a  prospect  that  it  was  hkely  to  increase  at  a  still  higher  rate 
in  the  years  to  come,  wlien  the  Boxer  uprising  gave  it  a  positive 
check  for  an  indefinite  time. 

The  most. trustworthy  figures  give  the  number  of  foreigners  in  China  as 
follows :  British,  5,562 ;  Japanese,  2.440 ;  Americans,  2,335 ;  Russians, 
1,G21 ;  Portuguese,  1,423  ;  French,  1,183  ;  Germans,  1,134,  with  seven 
other  nationalities  represented  at  a  smaller  percentage,  the  entire  number 
swelling  the  foreign  population  to  a  little  over  17,000  people.  It  will  be 
seen  that  America  ranks  third  in  the  list  as  regards  numbers,  although  in 
the  matter  of  trade  it  stands  at  the  head,  with  a  promising  outlook  fur 
the  future. 

The  percentage  of  the  native  population  of  China  in  the  country  as 
compared  to  the  numbers  in  the  cities  is  not  far  from  seventy-five  per 
cent,  of  the  whole.  But  the  Chinese  never  know,  or  if  knowing:  will  never 
acknowledge,  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  any  given  section.  Their 
answer  is  invariably,  "It  may  be  many,"  "Who  can  tell?"  or  some  such 
indefinite  reply. 

In  reality,  the  estimate  of  the  population  of  the  Chinese  Empire  is  a 
guess,  pure  and  simple.  It  is  true  desultory  attempts  have  been  made  to 
verify  these  estimates  in  certain  districts,  but  not  with  anv  dctrree  of 
thoroughness.  A  single  case  will  do  for  an  example.  Innnediattly  after 
jHiblic  relief  in  one  of  the  famine-stricken  districts,  in  187S,  an  imaginary 
circle  was  drawn  around  a  centre  for  the  distance  of  twentj^  lis,  a  li  being 
equal  to  about  one-third  of  an  English  mile.  Within  this  radius  were 
150  villages  or  hamlets,  and  the  total  population  contained  within 
the  area  was  estimated  to  ])e  sixty  thousand,  counting  eighty  families 
to  a  village,  and  five  persons  to  a  familj-.  This  made  the  average  for  tlie 
district    531    persons    to    the    square    mile,    which    is    a    fraction    higher 


than  the  average  per  mile  for  Belgium,  the  most  thickly  populated  country 
in  Europe.  But  as  quite  a  portion  of  this  territory  is  uninhabited,  this 
estimate  is  not  accepted  as  very  accurate.  In  fact,  tliis  manner  of  com- 
puting a  population  is  always  open  to  grave  suspicions  of  error.  Another 
estimate  made  in  this  way  for  a  circular  area  produced  the  startling 
figures  of  2,129  persons  to  the  square  mile,  and  it  was  made,  too,  by  a 
conservative  statistician . 

Granting  the  approximate  correctness  of  these  footings,  there  are  tliou- 


CniNESE    FARM    ON    THE    AMUR    RIVER. 


sands  of  square  miles  on  the  plains  of  northern  China,  and  many  more  in 
the  mountainous  districts  of  Yunnan,  vvhere  the  population  would  drop  to 
a  low  figure.  Again,  there  is  that  large  tract  of  country  called  Obi  Desert, 
where  comparatively  few  people  live.  To  offset  these  there  are  the  densely 
poj)ulated  cities,  where  the  second  rating  is  not  too  high.  Striking  a 
rough  average,  we  can  safely  calculate  the  population  of  China  to  be 
approximately  four  hundred  millions. 

From  the  beginning  of  missionary  work  in  China,  Christian  schools  have 
gone  hand  in  hand  with  religious  teachings.  It  has  always  been  found 
difficult  to  win  a  Chinaman  from  the  belief  of  his  fathers,  and  thus  the 


CHINA.  391 

child  and  wife  have  been  appealed  to  first,  in  the  order  named.  The 
children  were  taught  the  new  language,  and  along  with  it  the  doctrines 
of  Christ.  The  child  was  clothed  in  the  dress  of  the  Occident,  so  that  the 
vanity  of  the  pupil  was  touched  as  well  as  his  intellectual  faculties.  The 
transformation  was  something  wonderful  in  both  cases.  The  mother  was 
quick  to  see  and  understand  the  improvement  in  the  matter  of  personal 
adornment,  and  she  the  more  readily  became  a  convert  to  this  new  creed, 
which  aiforded  such  a  flattering  renovation  in  outward  appearance. 

The  religious  convictions  of  the  man,  however,  are  more  deeply  rooted, 
and  the  scheme  of  religious  redemption,  wliich  has  worked  so  well  thus 
far,  suddenly  meets  with  serious  opposition  when  the  husband  is  to  be  won 
over  to  the  cause  the  wife  has  espoused.  When  the  couple  come  to  com- 
pare notes,  grief  and  bitterness  follow.  He  sees  only  wrong  in  this 
meddling  with  the  spiritual  examples  of  his  fathers.  She  becomes  firm 
in  her  devotion  to  the  doctrine  instilled  into  the  minds  of  her  children, 
and  the  couple,  from  living  together  in  harmony,  become  estranged,  and  a 
bitterness  comes  into  the  heart  which  neither  time  nor  association  can 
eradicate. 

In  this  half-Christianised  home  the  newcomer  meets  with  his  most 
bitter  enemy.  The  man  looks  upon  him  as  a  wolf  entered  into  his 
fold,  who  has  not  only  stolen  his  lambs,  but  who  lias  poisoned  the  mind 
of  the  companion  of  years.  Truly  there  are  two  sides  to  this  question, 
and  the  doubt  will  arise  as  to  whether  this  was  God's  great  plan. 

From  the  mission  schools  many  young  men  have  gone,  however,  into 
positions  of  commercial  and  official  trust,  everywhere  showing  that  they 
have  been  vastly  benefited.  Even  the  Chinese  leaders,  as  loth  as  they 
are  to  acknowledge  any  good  coming  from  a  foreign  source,  have  re- 
luctantly admitted  tliis  truth.  An  imperial  college,  with  the  avowed 
purpose  of  educating  young  men  in  Western  ideas  of  diplomacy,  was 
established  and  continued  with  what  mifi'lit-be  considered  flattering:  success. 
From  this  experimental  beginning  tlie  Cliinese  government  began  to  es- 
tablish schools  devoted  entirely  to  the  dissemination  of  Occidental  educa- 
tion. The  graduates  of  these  schools  began  to  translate  and  print  foreign 
books,  such  as  works,  on  geography,  astronomy,  chemistr}^,  physics,  etc.,  to 
say  nothing  of  religious  works,  and  those  treating  of  government.  The 
desire   to  read  and  study   these  books  (piickly  became  a  ruling  passion, 


and  tlie  presses  of  the  empire  were  overtaxed  in  order  to  meet  tlie 
demand. 

Viceroy  Chang  Chih  Tung,  one  of  the  noblest  examples  of  progressive 
China,  sought  to  have  all  the  best  books  of  the  leading  languages  trans- 
lated into  Chinese,  which  called  forth  a  storm  of  abuse  from  many  of  his 
people.  He  retorted  by  calling  them  "  mossbacks  "  and  "  ancients,"  and 
the  matter  of  printing  large  editions  of  books  on  good  government, 
political  economy,  international  law,  and  similar  subjects,  went  bravely 
on. 

With  the  multiplication  of  books  came  the  telegraph,  carrying  messages 


LOADED    BARROW. 


of  news  and  business  from  one  part  of  the  empire  to  another.  So  gradu- 
ally, and  almost  without  realising  it  themselves,  the  Chinese  adopted  the 
customs,  manners,  education,  and  improvements  of  those  whom  they  still 
delighted  to  style  and  to  hate  as  "foreign  devils." 

Along  with  foreign  books  came  a  desire  for  foreign  toys,  goods,  and 
Yankee  inventions,  so  that  the  inland  merchants,  who  penetrate  with  their 
heavy  loads  into  the  most  remote  districts  of  the  interior,  go  laden  largely 
with  these  wares,  and  they  are  found  far  from  the  seacoast  as  well  as  in 
the  large  cities.  The  emperor,  as  a  boy,  set  the  example  by  making  of  his 
palace  a  musemn  of  inventions,  intricate  contrivances  and  miniature  ma- 
chinery of  Occidental  making.  This  amusement  of  his  childhood  turned 
his  mind  to  mastering  the  English  language  and  its  literature. 


CHINA. 


393 


Foreign  influence  entered  China  like  a  new  key  in  a  long  unused  lock, 
and  turned  at  the  sacrifice  of  whatever  of  governmental  machinery  and  the 
rust  of  custom  came  in  its  way.  No  respect  was  shown  to  the  empire's 
ancient  institutions,  already  moss-covered  when  Alexander  the  Great  halted 
his  victorious  army  on  the  plains  beyond  its  outer  posts  and  dared  not 
attempt  an  entrance,  and  when  the  prophet  Isaiah  wrote  of  the  mysterious 
Middle  Kingdom  as  the  Land  of  Sinim. 

There  is  a  sublimity  in  the  awakening  of  this  giant  Rip  Van  Winkle  of 


knti;axck  gatk  to  conficia.n    ik.mi-j.k,  cmxG-iiAi. 


the  Far  East  quite  beyond  the  power  of  pen  to  describe.  Even  the  Great 
Wall,  built  when  Hannibal  was  fighting  the  Romans,  could  not  longer  pro- 
tect him,  any  more  than  the  cloak  of  philosophic  suj^erstition  wrapped 
about  his  mighty  form  could  conceal  him  from  the  gaze  of  the  intruder. 
The  massive  wall  must  crumble,  though  the  dust  thrown  up  may  envelop 
the  people ;  the  cloak  must  be  torn  aside,  even  if  the  skeleton  underneath 
is  exposed. 

With  his  love  for  isolation  the  Chinaman  nurtures  a  love  for  his  native 
land  which  amounts  to  a  passion.  If  the  duties  of  life  call  him  away  from 
home  and  family  ties,  his  supreme  desire  is  that  he  uia}-  return  to  die  amid 


the  scenes  of  his  early  days.  The  liighest  favour  that  he  can  do  to  one  of 
his  race  is  to  see  tliat  his  ashes  are  carefully  taken  back  for  burial  in  the 
ancestral  cemetery,  wliere  they  may  lie  beside  those  of  liis  fathers.  No 
other  race  can  show  an  equal  veneration  for  the  sacred  scenes  of  home- 
land. 

But  this  veneration  for  native  land  must  not  be  construed  to  mean  a 
national  spirit  of  patriotism.  The  very  foundation  upon  which  stand  the 
Chinese  ideas  of  power  and  unification  of  principle  is  antagonistic  to  this 
outcome.  The  code  of  ethics  which  regulates  matters  divine  as  well  as 
human  decides  why  an  outgrowth  of  this  kind  is  impossible.  Not  only  is 
the  high  official  expected  to  control  matters  of  ordinary  moment,  l:)ut  he 
is  expected  also  to  exercise  dominion  over  those  which  are  extraordinary. 
Thus  the  snow  melting  on  the  distant  mountains  may  swell  the  rivers  so 
that  the  latter  carry  death  and  desolation  on  their  turbulent  floods,  as  the 
rivers  of  China  often  do.  That  the  changing  season  may  have  had  any- 
thing to  do  with  this  is  not  taken  into  account  by  the  aggrieved  people. 
The  governor  should  have  seen  that  such  a  thing  had  not  been  allowed  to 
come  to  pass.  Immediately  he  is  summoned  before  the  viceroy  to  answer 
to  the  charge  of  having  neglected  his  duties  l3y  allowing  the  swollen 
stream  to  run  such  a  career !  Does  the  offender  attempt  to  prove  his 
innocence  in  so  grave  a  charge  ?  No.  Rather  than  to  meet  his  accusers 
he  resorts  to  suicide.  In  this  way  the  honour  of  the  chief  official  is  main- 
tained, and  the  people  feel  that  justice  has  been  obtained. 

Of  course  it  requires  the  mind  of  a  Chinaman  to  comprehend  th.e  fine- 
ness of  distinction  existing  here ;  his  peculiar  estimate  placed  upon  the 
value  of  human  life  is  necessary  in  order  in  the  least  to  appreciate  the 
inner  workings  of  this  form  of  official  responsibility. 

The  most  wonderful  feature  of  this  character  is  the  fact  that  it  is  not 
the  sudden  outgrowth  of  recent  influence,  but  is  rather  the  changeless  con- 
dition of  more  than  forty  centuries.  This  is  the  more  remarkable  when 
it  is  considered  that  time  and  again  the  race  has  met  outside  elements  and 
foreign  influences.  It  encountered  opposition  and  contradicting  character- 
istics from  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  soil  that  it  made  its  home- 
land, but  it  moulded  them  to  its  own  liking.  Tartary  since  the  very  begin- 
ning has  been  constantly  pouring  into  the  great  reservoir  of  the  immutable 
race  a  stream  of  new  blood  filled  with  the  bright  globules  of  revolution, 


CHINA. 


395 


but  which  has  never  failed  to  assimilate  with  the  sluggish  current  of  the 
Celestial  body.  The  best  blood  of  India  has  mingled  with  its  tide  and 
become  a  part  of  it  without  leaving  a  trace  of  its  passage.  The  races  of 
the  west  and  the  south  became  absorbed  by  this  yellow  dragon. 

That  inspiration  which  is  stronger  than  blood,  because  it  springs  from 
the  soul,  religion,  has  been  sent  like  an  evangel  to  lighten  the  hearts  of  the 
people,  without  reaping  the   harvest   which  usually   follows  its  sowing. 


CANAL -BOATS   ON    THE    RIVER    PEI-HO. 


Wherever  else  Buddhism  swept  over  Asia  it  created  new  idealism,  raised 
new  standards  of  thought,  and  revoli.tionised  the  conditions  of  men.  In 
China  it  was  spread  only  in  name.  The  Chinaman  seized  upon  it,  as  he 
does  upon  everything  else,  only  to  mould  it  to  liis  own  peculiar  and  ancient 
ideals.  Confucius  had  established  his  code  of  thought,  and  Buddha  found 
no  part  in  shaping  the  life  and  morality  of  this  race  stronger  than  its 
own  great  possibilities  in  the  veneration  for  the  powers  of  the  past. 
"-  Indeed,  nothing  has  changed  the  Chinaman.     From  the  beginning  he  has 


been  hemmed  in  with  huge  mountain  ranges  and  deserts  to  tlie  west,  and 
by  an  unfriendly  seacoast  to  his  east  and  south  ;  and  when  these  natural 
barriers  would  no  longer  keep  him  secluded,  he  built  a  wonderful  wall  to 
his  north,  that  he  might  perfect  his  isolation  and  remain  wedded  to  that 
which  possessed  the  sanction  of  the  unchanging  past.  Influences  that 
seeped  in  from  the  outer  world,  the  Chinaman  slowly,  steadily,  remorselessly 
absorbed  and  changed  until  they  bore  the  mark  of  the  Celestial.  Influ- 
ences which  altered  the  face  of  Europe  touched  no  responding  chord  in 
China.  Political  revolutions  came,  went,  and  left  no  reforms ;  dynasties 
succeeded  each  other  through  forty  centuries,  and  produced  no  changes,  nor 
effected  any  variations  in  the  system  of  government.  The  foreign  Mongo- 
lian of  the  thirteenth  century,  the  Manchurian  almost  in  our  own  time,  con- 
quered China,  but  not  the  Chinaman ;  instead  of  bending  the  Chinaman  to 
new  beliefs,  the  conquerors  themselves  bent,  became  absorbed,  and  grew 
to  be  Chinamen.  In  this  vast  empire  dwell  upward  of  four  hundred 
million  people,  with  habits  and  beliefs  which  have  been  crystallising  for 
at  least  three  or  four  thousand  years.  Europe  discusses  the  Chinaman 
lightly,  as  a  latter-day  problem,  but  who  shall  say  that  if  the  people  of 
Europe,  with  all  their  civilisation,  all  their  means  of  conquest  and  their 
highly  developed  government,  should  be  set  down  in  China,  that  the  vast 
jelly-fish  might  not  suck  them  in,  absorb  them,  obliterate  them  from  the 
face  of  the  earth  ?  \Ye  have  heard  much  of  our  influence  on  the  Chinese  : 
we  have  heard  little  of  the  possible  influence  of  the  Chinese  upon  us, 
the  dominant  people  of  the  present,  and  it  is  a  vital  question  whether 
the  swallowers  of  Europe  shall  swallow  or  be  swallowed."  ^ 

This  brings  us  to  a  question,  which  may  seem  irrelevant  and  not  worth 
the  asking  by  him  who  has  not  looked  under  the  surface  :  "  Have  we  (the 
allied  powers)  anything  to  fear  from  China?"  "Oh,"  you  may  say, 
"  most  certainly  not,  from  your  own  standpoint.  Her  soldiers  are  not 
patriots  fighting  for  a  flag,  or  even  defenders  of  a  principle.  Let  the  Japs 
whip  them  into  submission,  and  w^e  will  reap  our  share  of  the  benefit  to 
come." 

Now  almost  anything  can  be  said  of  China  with  an  air  of  truth,  but 
underneath  the  surface  is  a  mine  the  foreigner  has  not  worked.  He 
witnesses  with  feelings  akin  to  awe  the  immutability  of  the  race,  and  con- 

iLeroy-Beaulieu's  "The  Awakeuiug  iu  the  East.' 


CHINA. 


397 


stantly  discovers  something  new  to  him  in  the  character.  This  being  the 
case,  does  he  never  stop  to  ask  himself  if  there  be  not  some  element  in 
reserve  which  he  has  not  seen,  and  of  which  he  may  not  have  dreamed  ? 

We  all  know  that  the  Japanese  have  never  professed  any  love  for  the 
Chinese,  and  that  the  two  races  have  ever  been  at  war  with  each  other. 
But  after  all  there  is  a  tie  binding  them  together  as  no  other  race  is  bound 
to  either.  If  not  closely  connected  by  blood  relationship,  yet  the  fact  is 
evident  that  they  are  more  closely  allied  by  the  affinit}'  of  race  character- 


TllK    IIKA     IIILl.S,    ril  ADU  -  KIXG  •  KOO. 


istics  than  any  other  two  people  on  earth.  Tlity  hiwe  Yixod  in  the  same 
atmosphere,  with  similar  environment,  and,  placed  together  as  conqueror 
and  captive,  the  alliance  would  prove  stronger  than  in  the  past.  Would 
it  not  l)e  natural  that  tlie  united  race  should  rally  together  against  the 
rest  of  the  world  ? 

Then,  knowing  the  remarkable  assimilative  powers  of  China,  is  it 
unreasonable  to  expect  that  the  Japanese  would  become  Chinese,  rather 
than  the  opposite  ?  We  have  seen  races  stronger  in  the  native  elements 
yield  to  this  peculiar  people. 

Now  then,  suppose  that  this  vast  aggregate  of  races,  comprising  over 


one-third  of  the  world's  population,  slioidd  decide  to  bring  over  the  two- 
thirds  to  their  ideas  of  religion  and  government,  who  dares  anticipate  the 
result  ?  There  may  be  nothing  frightful  in  contemplating  this,  but  do  not 
forget  that  twice  already  in  the  history  of  European  civilisation  armies 
have  risen  from  this  hotbed  of  Celestial  power  to  trample  under  feet  the 
valour  of  the  West.  You  say  this  will  be  the  battle  of  barbarism  against 
civilisation.  So  it  was  in  the  era  of  the  Hun  invasion,  when  Imperial 
Rome  saw  her  robes  dragged  in  the  dust ;  it  was  so  in  the  conquest  'of  the 
Genghis  Khan ;  who  can  say  the  wave  may  not  rise  again  to  flow  higher 
and  farther  than  ever  yet  ?  The  Chinese  of  the  present  time  are  sufficient 
to  nuister  an  army  of  forty  million  soldiers,  who  would  subsist  on  the 
scantiest  of  fare,  work  fourteen  hours  a  day,  and  ever  stand  ready  to 
sacrifice  their  lives  for  the  merest  caprice  of  their  leaders.  They  may  not 
be  an  intelligent  body  of  fighters,  armed  with  a  good  cause  or  following  a 
flag,  but  they  are  made  of  the  same  material  which  has  already  overrun 
Europe  like  a  wave  from  the  drainless  sea.  What  has  been  done  once  it 
is  not  unlikely  may  be  done  again. 

More  perhaps  than  in  any  other  respect  does  the  Chinaman  differ  from 
the  American  in  his  relations  to  his  family.  In  the  latter  case  the  regard 
of  the  parent  for  the  child  is  often  greater  than  that  of  the  latter  for  the 
former.  In  China  it  is  always  the  reverse.  Filial  duty  is  looked  upon  as 
the  highest  virtue  a  person  can  possess,  and  it  is  of  such  ancient  origin 
that  Confucius  seems  to  have  builded  his  noble  precepts  about  this  very 
principle.  The  Chinaman's  faults  may  be  numerous  in  otlier  directions, 
but  he  cannot  be  accused  of  disregard  for  his  parents.  He  will  work  hard 
and  pinch  himself  that  he  may  support  his  aged  father  and  mother  com- 
fortably, and  when  deatli  finally  removes  his  burden  he  will  even  sell  him- 
self into  bondage  that  he  may  accord  them  a  burial  becoming  his  station 
in  life. 

In  illustration  of  this  Oriental  point  of  view,  it  is  related,  among  twenty- 
four  similar  examples  of  filial  piety,  all  of  which  have  become  famous,  that 
a  man,  finding  he  could  not  support  both  his  aged  father  and  his  young 
child,  decided  to  bury  the  latter  alive  in  order  that  he  might  perform  his 
higher  duty.  This  sacrifice  on  his  part  so  pleased  the  genii  that  they 
caused  to  be  placed  in  tlie  grave  sufficient  treasure  to  enable  the  poor  man 
to  save  his  child  without  robbing  his  parent. 


CHINA. 


399 


As  this  filial  duty  belongs  largely  to  the  male  line,  it  is  looked  upon  as 
a  sin  not  to  have  any  male  cliildren.  In  this  case  the  family  becomes, 
extinct,  and  there  will  be  no  one  to  care  for  the  ancestors.  It  thus 
behooves  the  man  to  marry  early,  and  if  his  wife  bears  him  no  son,  he  has 
sufhcient  ground  for  a  divorce,  and  he  marries  again  in  the  hope  to  retrieve 
what  he  has  lost  by  his  first  contract.  This  doctrine  of  filial  devotion,  as 
beautiful  as  it  seems  at  first  sight,  has  proved  the  decline  of  the  race,  since 
its  conduct  is  antagonistic  to  progress.     Where  the  ideals   of   ancestors 


41  -^^:^^ 


MOUTH    OF    THE    CHIN  -  KIANG    lUVKK. 


become  tlie  standard  of  wisdom,  the  people  of  necessity  are  liarred  from 
making  any  advance  wliicli  woidd  reflect  upon  the  credit  of  those  who  set 
the  pace  for  the  irrevocable  past. 

This  blind  faith  in  ancestry  has  the  ameliorating  influence  of  making 
more  sacred  the  tie  of  family.  But  the  fate  of  the  Chinese  woman  is  not 
a  pleasant  one.  Entering  into  the  married  state  at  an  early  age,  she 
becomes  a  servant  rather  than  a  companion  to  the  man  she  has  wedded, 
and  a  mother-in-law  assumes  a  dictatorship  over  licr  wliitli  imposes  hardships 
bitter  to  bear.  Though  not  allowed  the  freedom  of  her  American  sisters, 
she  is  accorded  certain  privileges,  all  of  which  she  seems  to  improve  in  the 


interest  of  her  pleasures  rather  than  of  her  moral  character;  as  a  result, 
the  Chinese  women  are  not  so  far  removed  from  reproach  as  are  the 
women  of  Japan. 

The  darkest  blot  on  Chinese  history  is  the  lack  of  love  for  children  by 
their  parents.  A  strong  antipathy  is  felt  for  female  infants,  and  the 
mother  is  blamed  for  what  is  looked  upon  as  a  misfortime.  Had 
the  offspring  been  a  boy,  she  might  have  been  praised  for  the  pains  she 
suffered,  but  the  female  is  foredoomed.     Often  the  expectant  mother  plana 


MKLON    ISLANDS,    AND    IRRIGATING    WHEEL. 

with  the  father  as  to  the  manner  of  treatment  should  the  child  be  of  that 
unfortunate  sex. 

In  the  large  cities  there  are  public  places  where  these  foundlings  are 
placed  and  cared  for,  if  they  are  fortunate  or  unfortunate  enough  to  live, 
until  some  one  is  found  to  buy  them  at  the  nominal  price  of  three  shillings 
each,  or  about  fifty  cents.  Sometimes  these  outcasts  are  purchased  by  the 
wealthy,  who  rear  them  to  become  servants  or  concubines  to  a  rich  man. 
Sometimes  a  harsher  fate  may  be  given  them  by  some  designing  old  woman, 
who  procures  them  to  be  sold,  as  soon  as  their  personal  attractions  may 
secure  for  them  bu^^ers,  into  the  worst  form  of  slavery.     In  the  countr}', 


CHINA  .101 

where  even  such  doubtful  charities  are  not  to  be  found,  the  fate  of  the 
helpless  little  one  is  more  summary,  whether  it  be  for  its  good  or  ill.  As 
we  passed  up  or  down  the  inland  rivers  on  our  way  through  the  interior  of 
the  empire,  it  was  no  unusual  sight  to  see  the  bod}-  of  one  of  these  hapless 
infants  drifting  with  the  current  toward  the  broad  sea,  where  there  is  at 
least  escape  from  toil  and  infamy  for  the  life-bud  plucked  at  its  very 
beginning.  Why  this  overpopulated  land  has  not  yet  learned  to  send 
abroad  a  portion  of  its  female  surplus  of  inhabitants  to  countries  where 
they  might  be  welcomed,  remains  to  be  told. 

No  one  can  deny  that  the  Chinese  are  a  practical  people,  and  no  race 
understands  better  the  necessity  of  the  equilibrium  of  the  sexes-  in  order 
to  maintain  its  perpetuity.  Neither  has  any  race  striven  more  diligently 
to  keep  itself  propagated,  or  met  with  better  success.  It  has  persisted, 
however,  from  time  immemorial,  in  placing  a  wide  gulf  between  the  two 
sexes.  By  this  it  must  not  be  understood  that  the  female  child  is  always 
an  unwelcome  visitor  into  the  home.  The  shrewd  fortune-teller  invariably 
says  there  should  be  two  daughters  for  three  sons  in  every  well-ordered 
household.  But  the  parents  look  for  the  son  first,  and,  aware  of  the 
helplessness  of  the  daughter  in  the  matter  of  maintaining  tlie  ancestral 
rights,  do  not  hesitate,  wlien  they  choose,  to  sacrifice  the  life  of  the  female 
infant. 

Foreign  influence  has  done  considerable  in  mitigating  this  evil,  and, 
along  with  better  education,  it  is  to  be  hoped  yet  greater  good  will  follow. 
The  native  mother  or  father  does  not  deny  that  it  is  wrong  to  follow  up 
this  practice,  but  pleads  poverty  or  conditions  over  which  there  is  no 
control  as  an  excuse.  The  custom  is  older  than  history,  and,  from  early 
times,  public  edicts  have  been  issued  against  it,  while  books  have  been 
published  exposiug  the  evil.  But  until  the  mothers  have  been  educated 
out  of  the  deep-rooted  superstitions  of  the  past  the  evil  will  not  be  entirely 
eradicated. 

The  estimate  placed  upon  children  is  shown  in  the  ancient  classic  called 
the  "  Book  of  Odes,"  in  which  the  autlior  draws  the  following  vivid 
picture,  according  to  tlie  translation  of  Doctor  Legge : 

"Sons  shall  be  born  to  him;  they  will  be  put  to  sleep  on  couches; 
They  will  be  clothed  in  robes ;  they  will  have  sceptres  to  play  with ; 
Their  cry  will  be  loud. 


They  will  be  (hereafter)  resplendent  witli  ivd  knee-covers, 

'The  future  king,  the  ])rinces  of  the  land. 

Daughters  will  be  born  to  him.     They  will  be  put  to  sleep  on  the  ground ; 

They  will  be  clothed  with  wi'appers ;  they  will  have  tiles  to  play  with. 

It  will  be  theirs  neither  to  do  wrong  nor  to  do  good. 

Only  about  the  spirits  and  the  food  will  they  have  to  think, 

And  to  cause  no  sorrow  to  their  parents." 

The   advent  of   a   boy  into   a  Chinese   family  is   greeted   with   every 
demonstration  of  joy,  and  he  is  permitted   to  rule  like  a  little  autocrat 


JUGGLERS    IN    THE    COURT    OF    A    MANDARINS    PALACE. 

until  he  has  fairly  outgrown  his  surroundings.  The  mother,  a  child  in 
the  want  of  experience  herself,  becomes  an  absolute  slave  to  her  children. 
They  must  be  humoured  in  every  caprice,  and  never  allow^ed  to  cry  for 
any  length  of  time.  The  mother  does  not  cease  to  carry  her  boy  about 
in  her  arras  as  long  as  she  can  lift  him,  and  it  is  no  unusual  sight  to  see 
a  little  woman  struggling  along  with  a  boy  in  her  arms  as  heavy  as  she  is. 
The  early  life  of  a  Chinese  boy  is  not  unpleasant,  and  this  is  also  true, 
though  for  a  shorter  period,  of  a  girl.  But  by  the  time  the  little  fellow 
is  ten,  his  days  of  happiness  are  replaced  by  a  dreary,  lonesome  existence. 


CHINA. 


403 


With  all  his  love  for  children,  the  Chinese  feather  has  absolutely  no 
conception  of  the  mind  and  desires  of  a  child.  He  cannot  enter  into 
childish  sport,  having,  it  seems,  entirely  forgotten  his  own  youth. 

The  games  of  a  child  are  simple  and  monotonous,  consisting  of  such 
tame  amusements  as  hitting  a  small  stick  with  sharpened  ends  in  a  way 
that  shall  send  it  spinning  through  the  air,  tossing  pebbles  or  bits  of  earth 
at  a  mark,  playing  shuttlecock  with  the  toes  and  heels,  a  simple  sort  of 
"jackstones,"  or  "  cat's-cradle."       The  Chinese  youth  do  not  strengthen 


LADIES    OF    A    MANDAKIX  S    FAMILY    AT    CARDS. 


and  toughen  their  muscles  by  running  and  jumping,  or  any  of  the  athletic 
sports,  while  their  climbing  is  of  the  easiest  sort.  There  is  comparatively 
no  hunting,  and  this  element  has  been  so  far  eliminated  from  thrir 
characters  that  no  bird  has  reason  to  fear  them.  It  is  no  uncommon  sight 
to  see  a  tree  in  the*  midst  of  a  town  loaded  with  a  dozen  nests,  many 
generations  of  birds  having  lived  and  reared  their  young  within  sight  and 
sound  of  the  village  youngsters  without  disturbance.  Even  if  the  boys 
had  no  desire  to  meddle  with  the  feathered  inhabitants  of  the  woods,  the 
very  scarcity  of  fuel  would  seem  to  act  as  an  incentive  to  make  them 
obtain  the  huge  nests  of  such  birds  as  the  crows  to  help  build  the  fires. 


The  recal  reason  for  the  safety  of  the  crow  and  his  companions  is  the  fact 
that  the  Chinese  youth  is  not  nimble  enougli  to  ascend  to  their  perches, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  fear  of  falHng,  which  is  universaL 

Chinese  youths  have  seldom  any  access  to  water,  and  thus  only  a  small 
number  become  swimmers.  In  those  regions  where  the  water  freezes  in 
the  winter  months  so  as  to  make  skating,  the  l)oy  is  denied  sport  in  that 
direction,  for  the  reason  that  no  Chinese  parent  thinks  of  indulging  his 
child  with  anything  in  the  nature  of  a  toy  or  plaything.  If  he  needs  the 
exercise,  there  is  quite  enough  for  him  to  find  it  in,  in  gathering  the 
debris  of  last  season's  field  for  fuel,  or  in  collecting  scattered  bits  of 
manure  with  which  to  enrich  the  soil  for  the  coming  crop.  Thus  the 
child-life  of  the  Chinese  is  one  of  much  work  and  little  recreation,  of 
sober  seriousness  and  small  enjoyment.  But,  like  the  Japanese,  the 
Chinese  are  able  to  make  much  of  a  little.  From  a  life  that  is  essentially 
dull  and  toilsome,  they  manage  to  extract  morsels  of  comfort  and 
pleasure  where  the  child  of  the  Occident  would  suffer  with  a  hungry 
heart. 

If  the  life  of  the  male  is  thus  to  be  described,  that  of  the  female  is 
doubly  bitter,  without  a  gleam  of  sunshine  toward  the  end.  She  marries 
young,  and  to  say  nothing  of  the  work  that  she  must  do  in  the  field, 
the  burdens  of  rearing  a  large  family  of  her  own  are  not  laid  aside  before 
she  is  obliged  to  assist  in  the  care  of  her  grandchildren.  If  there  is  any 
place  on  earth  where  woman's  work  is  never  done  that  place  is  in  China. 
The  maid  who  is  handsome  at  sixteen  becomes  faded  and  haggard  at 
twenty-five,  and  old  and  positively  ugly  at  forty. 


CHAPTER   XXXIIT. 

THE    ORDER    OF    THE    SWORD. 

THE  contrast  between  the  thoughts  and  works  of  the  races  of  the 
world  is  no^vhere  more  forcibly  illustrated  than  in  the  case  of 
the  people  of  the  Occidental  and  the  Oriental  countries.  There 
are  marked  examples  of  this  opposition  of  nature  and  human  nature  in 
America  and  Australia,  the  "  Land  of  the  Southern  Cross,"  and  again 
in  Japan,  "The  Land  of  the  Sunrise,"  and  still  again  in  China  we  tind 
equally  as  strong  evidence  of  this  contrast.  Here  we  find  that  the 
language  of  the  people  which  is  written  is  not  the  spoken  tongue,  while 
the  spoken  language  is  not  written;  a  book  is  read  backward  instead 
of  forward,  and  a  foot-note  is  really  a  head-note,  being  placed  at  the  top 
of  the  page ;  here  the  surname  is  the  first  name,  and  the  owner  upon 
meeting  a  friend  shakes  his  own  hand  instead  of  that  of  liim  he  meets  ; 
the  hair  of  the  women  is  worn  coiled  in  a  knot,  while  that  of  the  men 
is  long ;  the  women  wear  trousers  and  the  men  skirts ;  women  carry  the 
burdens  of  travel,  but  the  men  are  dressmakers ;  girls  become  old  women 
without  passing  through  that  happy  transition  period  of  maidenhood; 
dinner  begins  with  dessert  and  ends  witli  soup;  the  compass  points  to 
the  south  instead  of  the  north  ;  vessels  are  launched  sidewise.  and  horses 
are  mounted  from  the  o££-side. 

China  is  a  land  of  guilds  and  secret  societies,  the  majority  of  wliich 
seem  to  have  originated  for  some  sinister  purpose  rather  tliaii  for  the 
good  of  any  class  or  portion  of  the  people,  as  the  aim  of  such  societies 
is  elsewhere. 

An  illustration  of  the  workings  of  one  of  these  secret  societies  is  sliown 
by  the  much  dreaded  society  of  socialists  known  as  the  Ko-lao-Hui,  and 
which  originated  among  the  Hunan  soldiers  during  the  Taiping  rebellion. 
It  started  with  tlie  laudable  purpose  of  affording  aid  to  the  families  of  the 
soldiers  killed,  but  eventually  the  sentiment  of  making  the  possession 
of  worldly  goods  equal   with  all   became    the  paramount    idea.     As  the 


Hunan  men  served  over  most  of  the  empire,  this  society  became  wide- 
spread, and  not  being  able  to  gain  its  visionary  ends  by  peaceful  efforts, 
more  vigorous  means  were  tried,  until  men  without  scruples  becoming 
leaders,  deeds  of  plunder  and  darker  colouring  marked  their  course  of 
action.  Naturally  the  discontented  and  unfortunate  joined  the  ranks, 
until  it  became  a  powerful  and  dangerous  organisation,  constantly  re- 
cruited by  disbanded  soldiers  roving  over  the  country,  and.  others  belong- 
ing to  the  great  army  of  the  unemployed.     Not  long  since  a  plot  was 


THE    BRIDGE    OF    NAXKIN. 


discovered  at  Nankin,  which,  if  it  had  been  carried  out,  would  have 
involved  the  wholesale  plunder  and  destruction  of  several  cities,  with 
the  accompanying  horrors  of  massacre  of  innocent  lives. 

The  Chinese  are  a  deeply  superstitious  people.  Everywhere  we  are 
impressed  with  this  fact.  The  many-storied  pagodas  and  tall  towers  seen 
so  frequently,  and  always  in  threes,  so  situated  as  to  form  equilateral 
triangles,  that  they  may  ensure  fung  shue,  or  "  good  luck,"  proclaim  this 
national  trait.  The  literal  meaning  of  the  term  is  "  wind  and  water,"  but 
in  the  minds  of  the  Chinese  it  has  a  higher  definition,  though  they  are 
never  able  to  explain  just  what  it  is  derived  from.     Of  one  thing,  however, 


CHINA. 


407 


they  are  certain :  its  effectiveness  depends  on  the  lieight  of  the  structure 
raised  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  good  fortune.  Hence  tall  towers  are 
everywhere  erected. 

Some  few  years  since,  the  French  Jesuit  missionaries  built  an  imposing 
cathedral  near  Canton,  and  topped  it  with  a  lofty  spire.  Immediatelj'  a 
murmur  of  dissent  went  up  from  the  common  people,  which  increased  in 
volume,  and  a  mob  collected  to  tear  down  the  offending  object.  This  was 
not  done  because  of  any  particular  opposition  to  the  new  church,  but  its 


THE    SHIII-MUN,    OU    UOCK  •  GATES,    rUOVIXCK    OF    KIAXG  -  NAN. 


spire  rose  to  a  height  which  threatened  to  overshadow  the  virtue  of  the 
fung  shue. 

All  spots  are  not  believed  to  be  favoured  alike  in  regard  to  giving 
power  to  the  fung  shue,  so  the  matter  of  the  burial-grounds  of  their 
ancestors,  over  wliicli  tliey  keep  the  most  zealous  watchfulness,  becomes 
a  matter  of  careful  consideration.  It  often  happens  that  the  bodies  are 
moved  several  times  before  a  satisfactor}^  plot  is  found,  and  there  the 
"  god  of  good  luck  "  is  propitiated  with  liberal  gifts  and  offerings. 

An  important  person  in  China  is  the  diviner,  and  his  associates  are 
legion.     No  act  of  consequence,  and  from  the  festival  of  his  birth  to  the 


rites  of  his  burial,  undue  importance  is  attached  to  every  incident  of  his 
life,  can  be  carried  on  with  his  consent  unless  the  day  has  been  pronounced 
favourable.  The  desired  influence  is  ascertained  only  through  the  diviner, 
whose  deductions  are  drawn  from  some  whim  or  caprice  of  his  own.  The 
applicant  seems  in  blissful  ignorance  of  this  fact,  and  the  custom  is  not 
confined  to  the  peasant,  but  prevails  with  a  powerful  and  overruling 
influence  with  the  mandarin  and  the  monarch. 

The  foreigners,  in  their  dealings  with  the  Chinese,  have  met  this  under- 
hand agent  constantly,  and  many  a  promising  transaction  at  the  very 
moment  of  consummation  has  been  suddenly  ended  by  the  intervention 
of  some  shameless  charlatan,  without  any  satisfactory  excuse  being  given 
for  the  change.  Thus  these  necromancers  have  always  been  the  arch- 
enemies of  foreign  intercourse,  and  the  willing  tools  of  the  literati  have 
stood  ever  in  the  path  of  progress. 

In  no  respect  is  the  prevalence  of  superstition  more  plainly  exemplified 
than  in  the  case  of  a  drought.  Upon  these  occasions  the  priests  and 
officials  of  the  distracted  country  will  turn  out,  dressed  in  their  robes  of 
state,  while  the  common  people  will  follow  in  a  procession  to  the  temple, 
wliere  a  general  prayer  for  rain  is  offered  up.  During  these  periods  the 
killing  of  meat  is  forbidden,  and  the  inhabitants  have  to  subsist  on 
vegetables,  even  eggs  being  denied  them. 

One  of  these  excessive  droughts,  which  seem  to  be  so  common  to  China, 
has  recently  afflicted  the  country  in  the  north  of  the  empire,  so  that  for 
the  latter  half  of  the  year  1899  no  rain  fell.  "The  crops  over  this  region 
suffered  terribly;  the  ground  was  baked,  the  grains  dried  up,  and  even 
the  roots  that  remained  in  the  ground  through  the  winter  were  killed. 
In  this  dilemma,  prayers  were  frequently  resorted  to  by  the  high  and 
low,  while  incense  sticks  beyond  estimate  were  burned  at  the  shrines  of 
the  gods.  The  empress  detailed  nobles  and  princes  to  add  their  appeals 
to  the  prayers  offered  in  the  Temple  of  Agriculture  in  Pekin,  and  when 
a  week's  continual  prayer-offering  failed  to  break  the  drought,  a  final 
expedient  was  resorted  to,  when  the  sacred  tablet  preserved  in  a  southern 
temple  for  this  purpose  was  sent  for  and  brought  into  the  imperial  city 
amid  a  solemn  conclave  of  the  people.  This  tablet,  believed  to  posses? 
great  occult  powers,  was  found  at  the  bottom  of  a  well  in  one  of  the 
southern  provinces  several  hundred  years  ago.     It  is  a  plain  sheet  of  iron, 


CHINA. 


409 


but  what  of  that  ?  The  worshijD  was  as  sincere  as  any  ever  given  an  inani- 
mate object,  but  the  magic  of  the  charm  had  flown.  No  rain  followed  the 
pious  ceremony.  Thereupon  a  solemn  council  was  held,  and  the  tablet  was 
voted  false  and  useless.  Its  banishment  succeeded  under  conditions  that 
could  not  be  looked  upon  as  other  than  ridiculous  by  outsiders.  Pekin 
boasts  of  being  a  city  of  modern  accomplishments,  such  as  the  railroad, 


(  ORF  \X     TIMIM  K 


the  telephone,  and  electric  lijilits.  and  haviug  a  university  where  the 
foreign  languages  are  tanglit,  and  wImm-c  literature,  science,  and  political 
economy  are  r.nder  the  instrn(;tion  of  European  and  American  professors. 

This  drought  had  a  signification  deeper  than  the  surface  appearance. 
The  emperor  was  in  forred  retirement,  and  it  was  l)elieved  b}""  a  large 
number  of  people  that  the  gods  were  angry  because  of  the  dowager 
empress's  usurpation.      Had  the  emperor  been  on  the  throne,  and  headed 


the  procession  going  to  the  temple  to  offer  prayers  for  rain,  as  he  had 
usually  clone,  the  drought  would  have  been  broken  long  ere  this  solemn 

crisis. 

In  no  instance  do  we  find  a  more  disastrous  result  from  the  tendency 
of  the  Chinese  to  form  guilds  and  secret  societies  than  with  the  so-called 
"  Boxers,"  who  are  now  having  an  unenviable  notoriety  that  is  world- 
wide. If  only  recently  sprung  into  notice,  it  is  really  an  old  organisation, 
and  has  existed  since  the  beginning  of  the  Manchu  dynasty  under  different 
names,  and  with  different  objects.  Originally,  its  purpose  was  the  over- 
throw of  the  incoming  Manchu  power,  but  during  the  two  hundred  and 
fifty  years  of  its  existence  it  has  so  far  changed  its  aims,  that  we  now  find 
it  enjoying  the  favour  of  the  very  Hue  it  sought  at  the  outset  to  destroy. 

It  was  known  then  as  the  "  Society  of  the  White  Lotus."  This  name 
was  kept  for  many  years,  to  be  finally  changed  to  one  nearer  its  dangerous 
purpose,  "  The  Order  of  the  Great  Knife,"  meaning,  literally,  "  The  Order 
of  the  Sword."  But  this  name,  as  all  proper  names  in  China  do,  gave 
way  to  others  in  different  localities,  and  in  some  places  its  deadly  aim 
was  veiled  under  the  misleading  term  of  "  League  of  Righteous  Harmony," 
while  elsewhere  it  was  more  correctly  called  /  Ho  CJiuan,  which  is  trans- 
lated to  mean  "Righteous  Fist  Society,"  from  which  has  readily  and 
appropriately  come  the  designation  of  "  Boxer."  Its  stronghold  may  be 
said  to  be  in  the  north,  in  the  district  of  Pekin,  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  Chili. 

Just  what  provoked  the  uprising  which  has  passed  into  history  as  the 
"  Boxer  Rebellion,"  will  never  be  fully  and  satisfactorily  explained  to  all. 
No  doubt  several  causes  led  to  it,  and,  in  different  sections,  antagonistic 
objects  have  been  the  bone  of  contention.  The  SJien  Pao,  a  Chinese 
newspaper,  gave  the  following  account  of  beginnings  of  certain  branches 
of  the  society,  which  came  to  be  considered  as  belonging  to  the  same  body 
of  insurrectionists:  In  May,  1899,  a  robber  chief  by  the  name  of  Tschu 
Lung  Teng  founded,  in  the  province  of  Anhwei,  a  sect  which,  from  time 
to  time,  was  known  as  Hung  Tung  Ch'uan,  or  "  Red  Lamp  Shade,"  Tschin 
Tschung  Schang,  or  "  Society  of  the  Golden  Veil,"  Li  Pu  Schau,  "  Shirt  of 
Iron,"  and  Tatanni,  or  "  Sect  of  the  Great  Water."  This  order  grew 
rapidly  in  numbers,  and,  spreading  over  adjoining  provinces,  became 
generally  called  Lin  Hu  Schuen,  or  order  of  the  "  Willow  Forest  Fist." 


CHINA. 


411 


The  misdeeds  of  its  members  became  so  mnnerous  and  daring  that  the 
government  sent  troops  to  put  down  the  outlaws,  who  were  driven  back 
to  their  native  grounds,  and  again  changed  their  name  to  I  Ho  Tschuen, 
or  "  Fist  of  Patriotism  and  Peace." 

The  revivification  of  the  ancient  order  is  believed  to  have  been  sciven 
new  impetus  by  certain  results  of  the  presence  in  China  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  which  has  had  its  missionaries  there  longer  than  the 
Protestants.    Catholicism  is  not  only  the  oldest  form  of  imported  religion  in 


LOADING    TEA -JUNKS    AT    TSKEN  -  TANG. 


China  outside  of  Buddhism,  which,  it  must  be  remembered,  is  not  a  nati\"e, 
but  it  has  obtained  the  greatest  number  of  converts.  This  has  been  done 
at  a  sacrifice  of  its  own  credit,  however,  as  the  Church  has  not  been  careful 
Avhuni  it  admitted  into  its  folds,  and  if  these  have  not  all  pro^•ed  faithful, 
they  have  been  retained  that  the  number  might  not  l)e  diminished.  In 
this  way  the  Church  has  come  to  be  blamed  for  nuicli  of  which  it  has 
not  been  directly  gnilty. 

Growing  in  numbers  and  power,  it  acquired  man}'  privileges,  and  the 
government  was  finally  induced  by  the  French  legation  to  accord  to  the 
priests  the  power  of  magistrates.     Thus  a  follower  of   the  Church  by 


appealing  to  its  bead  was  practically  safe  from  the  law,  let  his  crime 
be  what  it  might.  In  tliis  manner  many  of  the  Chinese  came  to  under- 
stand that  all  they  had  to  do  to  carry  out  any  scheme  of  private  vengeance 
was  to  join  the  Catholic  Church,  when  they  were  safe  and  free  to  carry  out 
their  purpose.  It  is  not  strange  that  the  Romanists  received  many  con- 
verts, so-called,  and  that  many  personal  grievances  were  settled  unknown, 
it  miiy  have  been,  to  the  pious  head  of  the  power,  whose  sin  was  not  so 
much  a  desire  to  do  wrong  as  an  overzeal  to  swell  the  ranks  of  his 
followers. 

It  was  against  the  favoured  individuals  of  this  Church,  who  could  not  be 
reached  in  other  ways,  that  the  ''  Brotherhood  of  the  Fist "  first  directed 
their  peculiar  warfare.  From  blaming  one  sect  or  church  it  became  easy 
for  the  fanatical  association  to  reason  less  and  to  discriminate  not  at  all. 
So  all  Christians  soon  fell  under  their  ban.  The  attacks  of  these  secret 
slayers  became  more  common  and  widespread.  General  alarm  swept  over 
the  empire,  and  refugees  came  pouring  into  the  cities  from  the  country 
districts.  The  innkeepers  along  their  routes  dared  not  succour  them  for 
fear  of  calling  upon  themselves  the  wrath  of  the  secret  league,  some  of 
whose  members  might  be  in  their  midst  ready  to  strike  the  fatal  blow  at  a 
moment's  notice. 

Government  officials  were  helpless  or  afraid  to  meddle  with  the  uprisers. 
At  Tung  Chau,  a  missionary  was  holding  services  at  his  little  chapel, 
when  a  party  of  Boxers  came  along,  and,  tearing  down  the  symbol  over 
the  door,  threatened  to  raze  the  church  to  the  ground.  An  official  w^as 
present,  but  lifted  neither  hand  nor  voice  in  behalf  of  the  endangered 
preacher,  who  had  not  made  a  move  to  add  to  the  anger  of  his  enemies. 
A  Chinaman  of  good  standing  began  to  plead  for  the  poor  man,  and 
he  was  seized  and  beaten  with  clubs  until  left  for  dead.  The  mis- 
sionary escaped  to  the  roof  of  the  chapel,,  and  remained  there  until  the 
mob   had  dispersed. 

This  is  not  an  isolated  instance,  but  one  being  repeated  all  over  that 
part  of  the  empire.  The  missionaries,  like  the  brave  men  they  were,  went 
about  their  self-imposed  duties  calm  and  hopeful.  No  doubt  the  insurrec- 
tion could  have  been  crushed  out  at  this  period  had  the  head  of  the  gov- 
ernment desired  to  do  so.  But  the  Boxers  were  organised  with  the 
avowed  purpose  of  clearing  the  empire  of  all  foreigners.    If  the  missionaries 


CHINA. 


413 


have  been  given  the  lion's  share  of  the  blame  for  the  ill-fated  uprising 
against  them  and  their  countrymen,  it  is  because  the  deeper  and  inner 
motives  have  not  been  understood.  Tlie  missionaries  were  not  hated  so 
much  for  the  religious  reconstruction  that  they  represented  as  for  the  gen- 
eral introduction  of  foreign  methods  and  government,  of  which  they  were 
looked  upon  as  the  advance  agents.  Then,  too,  one  unscrupulous  person 
coming  among  a  race  that  cannot  discriminate  betw^een  the  true  and  the 
false,  will  spread  an  alarm  that  a  hundred  honest  men  cannot  quiet.     The 


ARKIVAL    OF    MARRIAGE    PRESENTS    AT    THE    RRIDAL    RESIDENCE. 


wonder  of  the  appearance  of  the  Boxer  element  is  not  that  it  came  when  it 
did  but  that  it  had  not  come  earlier  and  with  more  horrible,  because 
wider,  results. 

In  no  class  of  the  Chinese  does  superstition  have  a  stronger  hold  tlian 
among  the  Boxers,  whose  numbers  swelled  ra])idly  to  over  ten  million  fol- 
lowers. A  prominent  and  efficient  argument  used  to  recruit  the  ranks  has 
been  an  alleged  power  possessed  by  the  order  to  compound  a  magical  bev- 
erage which  shall  make  the  person  drinking  it  not  only  proof  against 
sword  and  bullet  but  cannon-ball.  No  matter  if  time  and  again  it  has 
been  shown  that  this  life  preserver  has  failed  to  save  its  devotees  from 


death,  some  trivial  excuse  has  been  offered  and  the  faith  of  the  surviving 
followers  has  remained  unshaken. 

Prince  Uchtomsky,  a  Russian  scientist  who  spent  many  years  in  study, 
ing  their  religious  symbols,  emblems,  and  works  of  art,  has  thrown  consid- 
erable new  light  on  the  inner  life  of  the  Chinese.  Foremost  among  the 
tenets  of  the  Celestial  religion,  and  allied  to  the  Confucian  doctrine  of 
reverence  for  ancestors,  is  rebirth  or  regeneration.  Through  this  it  is 
believed  that  one  can  be  saved  from  the  punishment  of  the  god  of  Hades, 
who  is  both  feared  and  favoured  by  the  Chinese.  This  supreme  head  of  the 
underworld  was  once  a  mortal  noted  for  his  excessive  wickedness,  and 
who  has  had  to  pay  for  his  sins  on  earth  by  swallowing  daily  a  certain 
quantity  of  molten  metal.  This  god  is  highly  honoured  in  China  for  the 
purpose  of  conciliating  him  against  that  inevitable  judgment  hour,  when 
each  poor  mortal  must  stand  before  his  tribunal  to  receive  his  desert  for 
his  career  on  earth. 

The  Chinese  have  a  tradition  which  matches  that  of  the  story  of  the 
deluge  portrayed  in  the  Bible.  The  Chinese  Noah  was  named  Nuh,  and 
the  account  of  the  warning  given  him  by  the  "  Over  One,"  how  he  built  his 
huge  junk,  and  set  afloat  upon  the  bosom  of  the  flood,  is  told  in  the 
ancient  Book  of  History.  This  Chinese  Noah  took  with  him  his  wife,  his 
three  sons,  some  rice,  millet,  and  a  tortoise.  The  voyage  of  the  junk  is 
described,  until  at  last  a  stork  was  discovered  approaching,  bringing  in  its 
bill  a  sprig  of  willow,  showing  that  the  water  had  begun  to  subside.  The 
landing-place  of  the  Chinese  ark  is  believed  to  have  been  a  mountain  peak 
m  Eastern  Tibet,  which  bears  to  this  day  the  name  spelled  in  Chinese  as 
^'  Ay-ahr-at."  Nuh  erected  a  temple  here,  the  ruins  of  which  are  claimed 
to  be  in  existence  at  the  present  time,  though  no  one  is  known  to  have 
ascended  the  inaccessible  heights  since  the  days  of  Nuh. 

The  deep  impression  made  upon  the  Chinese  by  this  story  of  the  flood  is 
shown  everywhere  one  goes  in  China,  and  there  is  not  a  temple  whose 
gates  are  not  surmounted  by  ornaments  shaped  like  arks  and  called  "  Ships 
of  Heaven."  Chinese  text-books  have  had  for  thousands  of  years  a  pic- 
ture of  Nuh  and  his  family  afloat  upon  the  flood,  the  water  already  rising 
toward  the  mountain  tops,  which  have  become  the  refuge  place  of  the  few 
surviving  wild  beasts  and  reptiles.  This  is  doubtless  the  oldest  picture  in 
the  world,  and  the  records  show  that  this  deluge  took  place  many  hun- 


CHINA. 


415 


dreds  of  years  before  the  flood  of  Noah.  This  has  led  some  to  believe  that 
the  author  of  Genesis  obtained  his  evidence  of  the  deluge  from  the  account 
of  the  Chinese.  In  proof  of  this  knowledge  of  the  Chinese  version,  they 
cite  the  seventh  verse  of  the  tenth  chapter  of  Genesis,  where  the  names  of 
the  children  of  Noah  are  given  as  "the  Hivite,  the  Arkite,  and  the 
Sinite,"  China  at  that  time  being  given  in  the  Sanskrit  records  as  Sinim  or 
Sinas.     This   argument   is   made    more    plausible    by  the    fact   that   the 


AMUR    RIVEK,    SIliKIUA. 

Armenian  mountain,  where  it  is  claimed  that  Noah's  ark  landed,  is  known 
as  Moimt  Ararat  only  to  students  of  the  Bible.  To  the  Armenians  it  is 
Masis,  and  to  the  Turks  Ak-Dagh. 

Although  composed  of  a  wild,  fanatical  rabble,  the  Boxers  go  through 
each  day  an  eight-hour  drill,  more  severe  and  taxing  than  any  of  the  train- 
ing given  the  armies  of  tlie  Occident.  Short  swords  or  big  knives  are  the 
weapons  used  in  these  drills,  and  these  are  swung  and  flourished  in  the  aiP 
something  after  the  manner  of  the  North  American  Indians  swinging  their 
war-clubs    during   some   scalp  dance.      At  the  same  time  of  brandishing 


their  short  swords  the  owners  whirl  and  sweep  around  in  a  way  that  makes 
the  beholder  dizzy.  A  part  of  the  time  the  mob  will  stand  on  one  foot, 
•with  tlie  other  lifted  high  in  the  air,  in  order  to  gain  the  power  of  balanc- 
ing oneself  properly  when  it  may  become  necessary.  Another  important 
part  of  the  drill  is  the  cultivation  of  as  fierce  an  expression  of  the  counte- 
nance as  can  be  effected,  and  the  Chinese  possess  an  art  in  this  direction 
whicli  might  seem  to  be  in  high  favour  with  the  evil  one.  This  exemplifies 
the  old  Chinese  saying :  "  A  woman  is  not  to  be  won  with  frowns ;  a  battle 
with  smiles." 

A  Boxer,  asked  why  he  made  war  upon  the  foreigners,  replied : 

"  Because  we  hate  you.  You  are  the  worst  devils  we  know.  You  have 
laid  iron  rails  across  the  very  graves  of  our  ancestors,  who  have  become 
angry  that  their  sons  have  allowed  this  to  be  done.  Floods  now  fall  upon 
one  part  of  tlie  empire  and  droughts  upon  another,  so  that  famine  and 
deluge  are  always  with  us  now.  It  was  not  so  when  w^e  were  faithful  to 
our  fathers,  and  revered  and  protected  their  memory." 

"  But  you  will  be  beaten  by  these  foreigners,  who  know  better  how  to 
light  than  you." 

A  grim  smile  overshadowed  the  other's  sallow  countenance,  as  he 
replied  :  "  You  have  not  whipped  us  yet ;  nor  will  you  ever  do  it.  Those 
who  have  fallen  so  far  are  as  a  grain  of  rice  in  a  granary.  We  can  keep 
on  losing,  if  it  is  necessary,  for  hundreds  of  years,  without  ceasing  our 
defence.  But  we  are  not  going  to  lose  always.  As  we  fight  bravely  on, 
our  ancestors  and  our  gods  will  forget  their  anger,  and  seeing  that  w^e  are 
in  earnest  will  lend  their  power  to  our  arms.  We  shall  win  in  the  end, 
when  every  foreigner  will  be  killed  or  driven  from  the  land.  When  the 
iron  dragon  (railroad)  has  been  removed,  and  the  shriek  of  the  steam 
demon  no  more  carries  death  and  hard  times  into  our  midst,  then  will 
Fung-shu  once  more  become  potent,  and  good  luck  will  smile  on  all  that 
the  Chinaman  does." 

The  impressiveness  of  this  thought  can  only  be  realised  when  we  under- 
stand that  the  Chinese  have  in  their  language  over  five  hundred  words 
denoting  good  luck,  and  this  attribute  is  really  their  idol  and  dream  in  life. 
All  his  days  the  Chinaman  strives  and  hopes  for  it  Avith  an  intenseness  a 
foreigner  cannot  appreciate,  and  if  at  last  it  seems  to  have  deserted  him  he 
has  no  wish  but  to  die. 


CHINA. 


41 


Unable  to  look  farther  into  the  future  than  the  day  that  is  passing,  he 
cannot  anticipate  other  than  ruin  and  loss  to  follow  the  construction  of 
railways  and  the  building  of  manufactories.     The  common  carriers  consti- 
tute a  large  body  of  men  who  perform  their  task  with  remarkable  rapidity, 
and  at  a  price  which  is  equally  as  remarkable,  when  the   distance   and 
danger  of  the  transit  has  been  taken  into  consideration.     As  the  iron  rails 
of   the  foreign    engine  of 
transportation   form    their 
networks  over  the  country, 
the    services    of    the    vast 
army  of  men  employed  in 
the  work  of  carrying  com- 
modities will  no  lonoi-er  be 
needed    in    that  capacit}'. 
Then     those     who      have 
learned    no    other    calling 
will   be    obliged    to    enter 
strange    fields    of  employ- 
ment.    So  it  will  be  with 
the  innumerable  home  in- 
dustries scattered  all  over 
the  land.    The  introduction 
of  foreign  machinery  can- 
not fail  to  produce  at  first 
intense    suffering,    and    a 
complete  revolution  in  the 
affairs     of     the     people. 
Naturally  the  blame  will 

be  attributed  to  the  "  foreign  devils,"  and  the  prejudiced  multitudes  will 
blindly  take  the  readjustment  in  hand,  with  inevitable  loss  to  industrial 
property. 

Under  such  a  spirit  of  unrest  and  foreboding  of  coming  evil, 
the  Boxers  were  prompted  to  rise  in  their  ferocious  might  and 
put   to    death    these  advance  agents  of  modern    i)rogress. 

The  government  was  too  much  in  sympathy  with  them  to  inter- 
fere,   until     it    found     the     rebellious    faction    grown    to    a    size    and 


MANCHU    SOLDIER 


strength  that  defied  its  intervention.  Had  the  Chinese  government 
possessed  a  Ward  to  organise  and  a  Gordon  to  lead  the*  imperial 
army,  the  Boxer  rebellion  would  have  been  crushed  before  foreign 
aid  could  have  reached  the  empire,  or  reaching  it  would  have  been 
needed. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

THE    IMPERIAL    CAPITAL. 

BEFORE  describing  the  results  of  the  Boxer  uprising  it  may  be  well  to 
glance  at  the  country  which  has  become  the  central  scene  of  action, 
noting  especially  Pekin,  the  Imperial  City  of  Northern  China,  and 
its  port,  Tien-tsin,  standing  behind  its  mud  and  millet  walls  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  by  the  same  name,  also  called  the  Pei-Ho  or  Nortli  River. 
The  latter  city  is  at  the  head  of  the  Grand  Canal,  twenty-five  miles 
from  the  sea  as  the  bird  flies,  but  sixty  as  the  river  twists  and  winds 
through  the  muddy  country. 

Sometimes  before  the  incoming  steamer  sweeps  in  from  the  Yellow  Sea 
and  moves  across  the  Gulf  of  Pechili  the  muddy  water  takes  on  a  deeper 
tinge  of  yellow.  A  sand-bar  finally  stops  the  ocean  craft,  and  those  of 
smaller  size  have  to  be  taken  in  exchange. 

Tien-tsin  has  never  found  much  favour  with  the  newcomer,  who  stops 
here  long  enough  to  get  his  passport  and  a  guide  to  accompany  him  on  a 
visit  to  the  Imperial  Capital,  the  Great  Wall,  the  Valley  of  the  Ming 
Tombs,  or  the  plains  of  the  Hoang-ho,  China's  "  River  of  Sorrow."  It  is 
an  old,  walled  city,  containing  with  its  suburbs  over  a  million  inhabitants, 
its  buildings  of  gray  brick  supporting  roofs  of  dingy  tile,  and  its  streets  so 
narrow,  dark,  and  dirty  as  to  be  almost  impassable.  Fill  these  narrow 
pass-ways  with  a  constant  stream  of  strange-looking  human  beings  jostling 
against  each  other,  shouting,  yelling,  and  fighting  to  obtain  a  passage,  but 
thwarted  for  hours  at  a  time  until  pandemoiuum  reigns,  and  you  have 
pictured  a  common  scene  in  this  ancient  seaport. 

Due  to  its  situation,  this  city  has  at  least  three  times  i)la3-ed  an  im- 
portant, but  disastrous,  part  in  meeting  foreign  powers.  The  first  of 
these,  when  the  allied  powers  of  France  and  Great  Britain  advanced 
up  the  country  in  1860-61  to  carry  defeat  and  humiliation  to  tlie  Chinese 
government  at  Pekin,  has  been  described.  Tlie  second  occurred  in  1870, 
when  the  French  Sisters  of   Charity,  with   twenty  other  foreigners,  in- 


eluding  the  French  consul  and  two  Russians,  were  put  to  death,  and  the 
convent  and  cathedral  burned.  A  heavy  rain  setting  in  at  the  beginning 
of  this  outbreak  fortunately  prevented  other  outrages  which  had  been 
planned  to  take  place.     Of  course  reparation  had  to  be  made,  and  from 


"^  sii  4;^  jt^ii-"  ^. 


Jl 

-^i>>;>^ 


CHINESE     REGULAR. 


that  season  Tien-tsin  has  always  been  under  the  surveillance  of  foreign 
gunboats.  Li  Hung  Chang,  being  made  viceroy  of  Chili,  took  up  his 
residence  here,  and  became  the  virtual  ruler  of  foreign  intercourse  until 
the  war  with  Japan  caused  his  downfall. 

In  the  midst  of  that  period,  which  was  the  opening  to  outside  con- 


CHINA. 


421 


cessions,  the  representatives  of  Great  Britain,  France,  Germany,  Belgium, 
and  the  United  States  strove  to  see  who  could  get  ahead  in  the  favour 
of  the  well-disposed  viceroy.  Railways,  telephones,  and  banks  were 
discussed  on  every  hand.  The  adroit  French  actually  laid  a  miniature 
track  and  placed  on  its  rails  a  tiny  engine  as  a  plaything  for  the  boy 
emperor  at  Pekin,  even  then  under  the  close  watch  of  that  astute  guard- 
ian, the  empress  dowager.  Others  sent  small  steam-launches,  and  put  up 
short   lines    of   telephone    to   amuse    the   youthful    ruler   at    the    palace. 


IMPERIAL    TRAVKLLING    I'ALACK,     IIOO  -  KKW  -  SII AX. 

Popular  dinners   w^ere    served,   and    society  was    fairly    ablaze    with    the 
shower  of  honours  bestowed  upon  the  mandarins  and  the  viceroy. 

Then  the  prize  was  captured  by  an  American  syndicate  in  1887,  to  be 
followed  by  a  perfect  storm  of  abuse  from  the  disappointed  rivals  wlio 
had  striven  so  earnestly  for  the  golden  plum.  Li  Hung  Chang  was 
roundly  censured  by  these  same  disgruntled  foreigners,  who  beo;ni  to 
prophesy  ruin  and  dissolution  for  China  if  she  admitted  what  thvy  liad 
been  working  for  so  assiduously.  To  their  shame  it  must  be  said  that 
the  American  press  at  home,  instead  of  rejoicing  over  a  victory  well 
won,  voiced  the  silly  alarm  of  the  defeated  diplomats,  until  the  Chinese 


were  frightened  into  retreating  from  the  step  they  had  taken,  and  modern 
progress  was  stopped  for  ten  years. 

In  that  decade  China  suffered  her  humiliation  at  the  hands  of  the 
Japanese,  which  no  doubt  under  different  circumstances  would  have  been 
averted,  and  Li  Hung  Chang  was  shorn  of  his  high  honours  to  become 
an  exile,  wandering  over  Europe,  while  Russia's  sliadow  fell  darkly  over 
the  benighted  empire. 

The  third  tragical  event  is  that  which  has  so  recently  been  enacted, 
when  the  allied  forces  of  the  foreign  nations  rallied  here  to  attempt 
the  rescue  of  the  beleaguered  missionaries  and  their  friends,  the  horrors 
of  which  are  still  fresh  in  the  minds  of  the  participants. 

At  Tien-tsin  we  are  at  the  entrance  to  that  vast  region  of  country 
known  as  North  Cliina,  which  includes  the  Manchu  capital.  The  climate 
of  this  part  of  China,  from  the  Yangtse  River  to  the  Yellow  Sea,  is  one 
of  radical  extremes,  being  much  colder  and  much  hotter  than  that  of 
Boston.  Tien-tsin  is  in  about  the  same  latitude  as  Philadelphia,  but  the 
ice  on  the  river  freezes  to  a  depth  of  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  winter, 
while  the  heat  in  summer  is  equal  to  that  of  Charleston,  S.  C.  This 
coast-region  is  subject  to  the  extremes  of  the  wet  and  dry  seasons. 
During  the  latter  period  of  six  months,  which  includes  the  winter,  the 
rainfall  is  scarcely  an  inch.  The  river  is  closed  at  Tien-tsin  during 
the  winter  season  of  four  months,  and  revelry  reigns  in  Chinese  and 
diplomatic  circles.  But  there  is  no  sleighing  on  the  wind-swept  plains, 
whose  atmosphere  is  dry  and  rarefied. 

The  severity  of  the  climate  is  shown  in  the  heavy  weights  of  stone 
put  into  the  construction  of  the  gray  sombre  houses,  which  have  been 
compared  in  appearance  at  a  distance  to  a  Scotch  town.  Outside  the 
city,  flat  farmhouses,  with  small  enclosures  surrounded  by  white  walls, 
are  scattered  about  in  more  homelike  suggestion  than  those  seen  in 
Southern  China.  Farther  north  the  descendants  of  the  wandering  tribes 
of  the  remote  ages  build  their  houses  with  heavy  roofs  and  gables  that 
possess  peculiar  twists  and  daring  outlines.  The  posts  that  support  these 
coverings,  which  are  built  before  the  walls  are  filled  in,  are  often  the 
trunks  of  trees,  crooked  and  unsmoothed,  just  as  they  grew.  This  style 
of  architecture  is  believed  to  be  a  relic  of  the  days  when  the  races  lived  in 
tents.     The  rough  doors  close  against  sides  that  are  merely  small  trees 


CHINA. 


423 


left  as  they  were  felled,  no  choice  seeming  to  have  been  made  in  getting 
those  that  were  smooth  or  straight.  The  ventilation  is  pretty  sure  to 
be  good  in  one  of  these  dwellings. 

If  the  summer  is  uncomfortably  hot,  and  the  earth  is  parched  so  as 
to  crack  open,  and  the  winter  so  intensely  cold  that  the  ground  freezes 
to  a  depth  of  several  feet,  while  ice-storms  sweep  across  the  open  country 
with  relentless   fury.   Nature   in  the    single    month    of    October    tries    to 


FAQADK  OF  THE  GREAT  TEMPLE  AT  MACAO. 

make  amends  for  her  excesses  at  other  periods.      Just  cool  enough  to 
aiford  a  bracing  atmosphere,  the  climate  is  delightful  then. 

The  Mongolians  are  a  pastoral  people,  but  the  Chinese  agriculturists 
have  been  slowly  driving  them  back  wherever  they  could  plant  a  corn- 
field. As  one  goes  farther  into  the  interior  one  finds  the  methods  of 
farming  the  most  primitive  that  can  be  imagined.  After  the  harvest, 
threshing  of  the  grain  is  done  by  driving  a  donkey  blindfolded  around 
in  a  circle  over  a  flooring  of  millet,  the  grain  being  shattered  from  the 
husk  by  a  stone  roller,  drawn  by  the  animal.  The  flail  is  unkno^vn  in 
this  land.  The  winnowing  is  done  in  an  equally  simple  manner  by 
throwing  the  tlireshings  into  the  air,  so  that  the  wind  can  blow  away 


the  lighter  portion,  wliile  the  grain  falls  on  a  mat  spread  to  catch  it. 
Enormous  quantities  of  millet  are  raised,  and  the  traveller  is  constantly 
meeting  long  trains  of  camels,  and  sometimes  donkeys,  loaded  with  sacks 
of  the  grain  on  the  way  south,  or,  if  returning,  laden  with  huge  packages 
of  cotton,  until  the  creatures  themselves  are  quite  lost  to  view,  the 
moving  mass  presenting  a.  singular  sight  as  it  goes  slowly  on  its  way. 
The  pride  of  a  Mongolian  is  his  horse,  which  he  shoes  in  a  manner  similar 
to  our  own,  except  that  he  does  not  turn  down  the  shoe  at  the  heel.  The 
animal  is  first  securely  bound  by  three  feet  and  thrown  upon  his  back, 
when  a  shoe  is  nailed  upon  the  free  foot  at  the  convenience  of  the  shoer. 

Tien-tsin  stands  at  the  very  gateway  to  the  country  of  the  Boxers,  the 
district  of  Pekin,  which  is  to  China  what  Tokyo  is  to  Japan,  but  a  portion 
of  the  empire  infrequently  seen  by  the  tourist.  Though  this  is  really 
the  region  the  foreigner  should  most  desire  to  see,  no  effort  has  been 
made  by  the  inhabitants  to  receive  and  entertain  him,  while  pitfalls  have 
been  laid  in  every  direction  to  make  his  stay  unpleasant,  so  he  has  been 
content  to  make  a  brief  tarry  at  the  English  stronghold  of  Hong-kong, 
glance  at  Canton,  take  a  peep  at  Shanghai,  and  pass  along  to  the  Land 
of  the  Sunrise  on  the  east,  or  to  the  mysteries  of  India  on  the  south.  A 
few  strangers  find  their  way  to  the  Tartar  city  each  spring  and  autumn, 
but  they  are  a  few  in  comparison  to  the  great  numl^er  who  annually  seek 
the  sights  and  scenes  of  the  Far  East  from  other  vantage-grounds. 

The  country  between  Tien-tsin  and  Pekin  is  a  A^ast  level  plain  from  fifty 
to  two  hundred  miles  in  width,  east  and  west,  and  six  hundred  miles  in 
length,  north  and  south,  a  territory  not  unlike,  in  some  respects,  the 
rolling  prairies  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  The  soil  is  an  alluvial 
deposit,  unstable  to  a  great  depth,  so  that  during  the  rainy  season,  which 
begins  in  July  and  lasts  from  six  to  eight  weeks,  the  land  is  a  big  bed 
of  mud,  large  tracts  overflowed  so  that  much  damage  is  done  the  inhabit- 
ants. This  plain  is  drained  by  five  rivers  of  considerable  size,  flowing 
from  the  north,  south,  and  west,  diverging  so  as  to  look  on  the  map  like 
five  huge  fingers  of  a  mighty  hand  spread  out  to  its  utmost.  The  soil  is 
adapted  to  growing  barley,  millet,  and  crops  of  that  nature,  the  portions 
tilled  by  the  different  farmers  being  separated  by  low  banks  of  earth  into 
small,  irregular  plots,  after  the  manner  of  the  Chinese. 

If  still  in  China,  the  newcomer  cannot  help  noticing  that  the  contrast 


CHINA. 


425 


has  somehow  been  lessened  by  the  appearance  of  the  men  one  meets  upon 
the  road.  A  little  change  in  dress,  a  softening  of  the  colours,  and  the 
farm-wagon  and  its  occupants  approaching  might  well  be  supposed  to 
be  representatives  of  Central  Europe  instead  of  Eastern  Asia.  But  one 
feature  common  here  is  unknown  in  the  other,  namely,  the  large  number 
of  liumpbacked  camels,  loaded  M'ith  wool  and  skins  from  pasture-lands  of 
Mongolia  on  their  way  to  Pekin.  At  the  close  of  the  day,  when  many 
miles  of  steady  marching  have  been  performed,  it  is  a  picturesque  sight  to 


FOOClllX    HILL,     PHOVIXCK    ith     (111-.     KKAXG. 


see  a  hundred  or  more  of  these  ungainly  animals  herded  togetlier  in  a 
single  compound.  This  camel  seems  to  be  of  a  different  stock  from  those 
of  the  deserts  of  Africa,  and  has  short  legrs  and  thick,  shao-u'v  liair.  which 
gives  him  anything  but  a  handsome  appearance,  though  he  is  a  prulitable 
burden-bearer.  On  their  way  back,  these  trains  will  be  laden  with  cases 
of  tea  for  the  Siberian  market. 

These  Tartars  travel  in  family  groups,  the  women  riding  astride,  while 
the  children  are  placed  in  baskets  mounted  on  the  camel's  back.  The 
camels  follow  in  single  file  so  as  to  make  a  long  train,  the  foremost  of  each 
party  being  led  by  a  rein  fastened  to  a  piece  of  wood  passed  througli  the 


camel's  nostril.  Muffled  in  thick,  wadded  clothes,  skeepskin  boots  worn 
over  felt  overshoes,  the  lower  limbs  protected  hy  tlie  "  Mongol  socks,"  or 
high  legs  of  the  boots,  sheepskins  covering  their  nnderclothes,  and  heads 
encased  in  long-eared  fur  caps,  these  Tartars  not  only  look  as  though 
they  might  be  warm  on  their  long,  exposed  journey,  but  they  are  also 
picturesque  in  the  extreme. 

There  are  three  ways  of  travelling  from  Tien-tsin  to  the  Manchu  capital, 
and  whichever  one  the  stranger  selects,  he  will  be  pretty  sure  to  wish  he 
had  gone  by  one  of  the  others.  Until  quite  recently  there  have  been  but 
two  methods  of  getting  there,  one  by  the  tortuous  river,  and  the  other 
overland.  Now  the  Imperial  Chinese  Railway  sounds  exceedingly  impres- 
sive. But  we  have  come  to  understand  by  this  time  that  the  oft-used 
word  "  imperial "  in  China  really  means  very  little  that  is  grand  or  noble. 
Certainly  the  plain  coaches,  without  ornaments,  springs,  carpets,  curtains, 
or  cushions  to  the  hard,  wooden  seats  that  go  thumping,  bumping,  knock- 
ing along  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour,  are  anything  but  a  happy 
consummation.  Under  Chinese  management  the  road  does  not  pay  — 
could  not  be  expected  to  do  so. 

Tung  Chau,  the  river  port  for  Pekin,  is  situated  eighty  miles  above 
Tien-tsin,  as  the  stream  flows.  It  is  a  route  of  melancholy  interest,  made 
doubly  so  since  the  allied  armies  have  made  their  march  upon  the  Tartar 
city,  leaving  all  along  their  way  terrible  reminders  of  the  folly  of  the 
Chinese  in  bringing  upon  themselves  this  awful  retribution.  It  can  be 
said  that  the  American  troops  behaved  as  became  a  civilised  body  of 
soldiers,  but  the  Russians  left  behind  traces  of  those  inhuman  acts  of 
butchery  and  mutilation  where  neither  sex,  age,  nor  station  were  spared. 

Tiie  hills  rise  like  a  crescent  on  the  north  of  Pekin,  while  the  plain 
slopes  away  on  the  other  side  from  the  city  toward  the  sea.  This  plain 
extends  for  seven  hundred  miles,  presenting  a  vast  panorama  of  country 
which  confuses  and  bewilders  the  beholder. 

The  climate  of  this  treeless  expanse  of  rolling  prairie  is  unequalled  for 
its  rarefied  and  exhilarating  atmosphere,  unless  it  is  rivalled  by  the  clear 
air  of  our  own  Dakotas  and  Minnesota,  or  by  that  found  in  the  cool, 
salubrious  mountain  regions  of  Hawaii  and  Samoa.  But  in  the  last 
instances  the  crispness  of  the  Asiatic  atmosphere  is  lacking.  Were  it  not 
for  this  matchless  climate,  the  health  of  the  foreign  inhabitants  of  PekiA 


CHINA. 


427 


must  have  broken  down  from  the  miserable  drainage  which  prevails  in  this 
mock  imperial  city.  Something  of  the  primitiveness  of  this  capital  may 
be  realised  from  the  fact  that  its  five  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  depend 
on  wells  for  their  supply  of  water  when  the  stock  of  rain-water  has  been 
exhausted  in  the  reservoirs.  The  water  from  these  wells,  inipnegnated 
with  the  salts  and  alkalis  of  the  plains,  is  brackish,  and  aljsolutely  offen- 
sive to  the  newcomer.    During  the  dynasties  of  the  Mongols  and  the  Mings 


PAVILION    OF    THE    STAU    OF    HOPE,    TOXG    CHOW. 


a  fine  system  of  water-works  was  maintained,  but,  under  Manchu  decline, 
these  were  allowed  to  fall  into  decay  and  disuse. 

With  a  summer  climate  of  tro})ical  heat,  affording  floods  of  water  and 
acres  upon  acres  of  deep  mud,  and  a  winter  season  of  frigid  temperature, 
the  dried,  parched  atmosphere  without  snow,  and  the  dust  lying  on  tlie 
streets  ankle  deep,  the  cliarms  and  interest  of  Pekin  are  counterbalanced 
by  many  disagreeable  features.  None  of  tlie  other  of  the  world's  capitals 
offers  such  a  medley  of  discomforts  and  attractions,  of  positive  ugliness 
and  picturesque  fascinations,  —  not  even  Holy  Moscow,  the  detlironed 
queen  of  Russia,  with  its  mingling  Oriental,  Siberian,  and  European 
grandeur  and  glory.     No  one  who  has  seen  Pekin  would  care  to  see  its 


reproduction  elsewhere,  while  no  one  who  has  seen  it  in  its  filth  and 
humiliation,  its  memories  of  a  bygone  greatness  and  unpromising  future, 
TTOuld  wish  to  have  missed  it. 

Imperial  Pekin,  in  Avhose  Tartar  body  beats  the  heart  of  China,  the 
poetically  styled  "  Purple  Forbidden  City,"  is  considered  by  the  Chinese  to 
De  the  highest  representative  of  the  arts  that  form  an  ideal  city.  Perhaps 
there  is  sufficient  warrant  for  this  praise  in  the  fact  that  the  sublime  Son 
)f  Heaven  resides  here  in  a  magnificent  seclusion  unequalled  by  any  other 


THE    GROTTO    OF    CAMOENS,    MACAO. 


ruler  in  the  world.     Here  have  been  seen  the  noblest  examples  of  the 
wealth  of  the  ancient  empire  and  the  grandest  display  of  imperial  power. 

As  maybe  imagined,  Pekin  is  a  difficult  city  to  describe.  It  is  made  up 
largely  of  what  it  has  been  and  what  it  might  he  —  of  visions  that  have 
vanished  and  dreams  that  have  not  been  realised.  The  long,  straight, 
wide  streets  described  by  Marco  Polo  are  still  here,  the  big  four-square 
houses  are  still  standing,  the  large  gardens  and  moss-grown  trees  remain 
as  mementos  of  the  days  of  the  wondering  Venetian,  but  over  all  hang 
the  indescribable  imprints  of  ruin  without  the  impressive  sublimity  that 
usually  accompanies  the  handiwork  of  old  Father  Time. 


CHINA.  429 

The  first  and  foremost  feature  of  Pekin  is  its  walls  and  gates,  thougH 
neither  is  plainly  distinguished  until  upon  near  approach.  Then  they 
tower  so  high  above  the  traveller,  and  reach  away  so  far,  that  he  looks 
upon  them  as  a  natural  product  of  the  scene  and  not  the  work  of  man. 
These  ancient  walls  are  to-day  sad  relics  of  the  misapplied  industry  of 
their  builders.  The  mighty  barriers,  sixty  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  two- 
thirds  that  breadth  at  the  top,  rise  forty  feet  into  the  air.  Still  they  are 
mighty  only  in  size.  The  great  towers  above  the  gateways  bristle  with 
guns,  which  prove  upon  close  inspection  to  be  painted  arms  upon  a  painted 
ground,  the  playthings  of  a  childish  mind.  Ominous  muzzles  peer  out  of 
the  countless  embrasures  which  are  the  products  of  the  artist  and  not  the 
artisan.  It  is  true  a  few  cannon  lie  here  and  there,  but  they  are  merely 
dismantled  wrecks,  rust-eaten  and  useless,  as  harmless  as  their  pictured 
imitators  on  the  walls.  Outside  the  crumbling  walls  are  wide  moats, 
made  wider  by  their  broken  banks,  until  the  trenches  have  broadened  and 
expanded  into  shallow  lagoons,  where  fowls  disport  unmolested  and  beasts 
of  burden  wade  through  to  reach  the  city. 

Three  cities  had  stood  on  the  site  of  the  future  Tartar  capital  before 
Kublai  Khan  transformed  it  into  the  splendid  centre  of  power  and  mili- 
tary prowess.  Like  Tokyo,  the  present  capital  of  Japan,  Pekin  (derived 
from  Pei-ching)  began  as  an  armed  camp,  occupied  by  ^an  alien  army 
destined  to  rule  over  the  Celestial  Empire.  The  general  plan,  the  palaces, 
the  high  walls,  the  towering  gates  are  all  what  the  ingenious  and  warlike 
Mongolians  made  them.  None  of  their  successors  have  deemed  it  advis- 
able to  attempt  a  change.  Not  even  the  quaint  military  tactics  of  the 
Middle  Ages  have  been  altered  or  modified,  and  as  the  valorous  banner- 
men  were  trained  in  the  days  of  the  Great  Khan  so  are  their  successors 
drilled  in  the  practice  of  archery  and  quoits ;  and  as  the  sun  sinks  ])elow 
the  lower  horn  of  crescent  hills  in  the  west  the  nine  city  gates  are  swung 
upon  the  inhabitants  within  the  city  amid  din  and  confusion,  imprisoning 
the  Chinese  in  their  section  just  as  their  ancestors  were  shut  in  more  than 
six  hundred  years  ago. 

The  capital  is  really  made  of  two  towns,  the  Celestial  settlement  and 
that  of  the  Manchu,  the  two  joined  together  by  a  wall  over  twenty  miles 
in  circumference,  with  a  cross  Avail  separating  them.  At  the  time  of  the 
Manchu  conquest  the  true  sons  of  the  dynasty  just  coming  into  power,  the 


faithful  Chinese,  took  possession  of  the  southern  portion,  which  their 
descendants  occupy  to-day,  while  the  Tartar  army  took  up  its  quarters 
in  the  northern  section,  which  is  nearly  twice  the  size  of  the  other.  The 
Tartar  city  holds  within  its  embrace  the  Imperial  City,  and  witliin  the 
latter  is  that  mysterious  heart  of  the  Northern  Capital,  "  The  Purple  For- 
bidden City,"  as  it  is  called.  This  contains  the  palace  and  abode  of  the 
Sublime  Emperor. 

Pekin  is  a  city  where  foreign  power  has  not  penetrated,  save  that  alien 


GARDENS    OF    THE    IMPERIAL    PALACE,    PEKIN. 


force  made  up  of  nomadic  bannermen  with  their  faithful  clansmen  on 
guard  just  beyond  the  Great  Wall,  who  hate  and  scorn,  while  they  secretly 
fear  the  Chinese.  It  has  been  this  dread  of  those  that  they  have  ruled 
w^hicli  has  caused  the  Manchus  to  seek  Russian  assistance  with  a  willing- 
ness which  is  destined  to  work  tlieir  own  ruin  at  no  very  distant  day.  But 
these  bannermen  on  duty  outside  the  Imperial  City,  although  the  sons  of 
Talorous  forefathers,  have  never  hurled  a  stone  or  bent  a  bow.  Like  the 
Mongolians  led  by  the  great  Genghis  who  became  enervated  by  enforced 
idleness,  they  have  degenerated  into  weak  specimens  of  warriors,  such  as 
their  valiant  ancestors  would  have  spurned  as  unworthy  of  their  mettle 


CHINA.  431 

The  Chinese  portion  of  the  city  is  entered  through  a  massive  archway  in 
the  solid  wall,  while  two  miles  beyond  are  set  in  the  heavy  barrier  the 
gate-towers  of  the  Tartar  city. 

In  a  certain  sense  Pekin  is  a  cosmopolitan  city.  On  its  streets  all  the 
peo|)le  of  Asia,  with  a  few  from  more  distant  parts  of  the  world,  jostle 
together,  the  Celestial  against  the  Manchu,  the  Mongol  against  the 
Tibetan,  the  Mohammedan  against  the  Corean,  and  natives  of  the  same 
empire  who  speak  tongues  unknown  to  each  other,  along  with  representa- 
tives of  races  from  lands  far  away.  These  medleys  of  comers  and  goers 
are  constantly  finding  the  way  blocked  by  trains  of  camels,  mule  litters, 
hand-carts,  sedan-chairs,  wheelbarrows,  and  other  odd  contrivances,  until 
the  din  and  confusion  bewilder  and  disgust  the  stranger. 

The  sights  of  Pekin  have  been  lessening  each  year,  as  the  Chinese  have 
grown  more  jealous  of  their  ancient  trusts  and  closed,  one  by  one,  the 
places  of  interest  to  the  tourists.  The  Temple  of  Heaven,  where  the 
emperor  was  wont  to  worship,  was  destroyed  by  fire  a  few  years  since,  but 
its  ruins  are  interesting  to  the  visitor,  while  the  Confucian  Temple,  the 
Hall  of  Classics,  and  Examination  Hall,  where  the  native  students  meet 
each  year  in  friendly  contention  for  rank  and  honour,  remain  to  be  seen. 
Then  there  are  the  Mohammedan  mosque,  the  Catholic  cathedral,  the  for- 
eign missions,  the  Lamaser}^,  the  old  observatory  on  the  wall,  and  many 
other  places  that  the  stranger  does  not  fail  to  visit  if  he  wishes  to  go  away 
with  the  best  knowledge  obtainable  of  the  Imperial  City. 

Passing  through  the  deep-set  arch  of  Hata-men,  which  means  tlie 
**Gate  of  Sublim.e  Learning,"  the  visitor  enters  Legation  Street,  running 
parallel  with  the  city  wall  for  nearly  a  mile,  when  it  opens  upon  the 
public  square  fronting  the  palace  gate.  Nearly  all  the  compounds  of 
the  foreigners  are  on  this  street,  which  is  anything  l)ut  the  nol)le  route 
one  Avould  expect  to  find  it,  but  only  a  miserable  way  winding  over  slouglis 
and  ruts,  guiltless  of  paving  or  of  even  decent  care  in  repairs.  A  com- 
pound, it  should  be  understood,  is  a  group  of  houses  surrounded  by  a 
wall,  a  common  arrangement  in  Chinese  cities. 

The  stranger  in  a  new  locality  cannot  obtain  a  better  idea  of  his 
surroundings  than  by  ascending  some  eminence  so  that  he  can  look  doA\Ti 
upon  the  scene  at  his  feet.  In  this  way  he  can  fix  its  different  sections 
clearly  in  his  mind,  and  when  he  comes  to  explore  its  routes  he  moves 


along,  if  not  a  familiar  course,  at  least  one  of  wliicli  he  knows  the  ending. 
This  fact  is  in  no  way  better  illustrated  than  by  climbing  the  tower 
of  one  of  the  nine  gates  of  Pekin. 

From  this  vantage,  forty  feet  above  the  din,  excitement,  and  unsavoury 
odours,  we  can  enjoy  the  prospect  to  its  fullest  extent.  We  no^v  see 
that  the  wall  is  not  as  regular  as  w^e  had  thought,  but  that  it  varies  in 
width  from  a  little  over  twenty  feet  to  nearly  sixty  at  the  top.  The 
outer  face  is  perpendicular,  but  tliat  on  the  inside  is  sloping.  Parapets 
are  to  be  seen  on  both  sides,  those  on  the  outside  being  made  witli  loop- 


WESTERN    GATE,    PEKIN. 


holes  and  crenelated.  At  intervals  of  a  little  less  than  two  hundred 
yards,  buttresses  are  placed,  eacli  sixth  being  larger  than  the  others. 
The  space  between  the  walls  forming  the  sides  is  filled  in  wdth  a  solid 
foundation  of  concrete  of  about  ten  feet  in  depth.  Over  this  is  a  layer 
of  earth  pounded  into  a  solid  mass ;  then  comes  a  layer  of  concrete, 
topped  by  another  of  earth,  which  is  paved  with  blocks  of  granite  that 
form  the  terreplein.  The  earth  to  fill  in  the  walls  was  taken  from  the 
ditch  surrounding  the  city.  A  buttress  is  raised  on  either  side  of  each 
gate,  and,  connected  with  a  semicircular  w^ill,  forms  an  enceinte.  The 
largest  gate  is  the  one  near  the  centre  of  the  southern  w^all,  which  has 


CHINA. 


438 


three  entrances,  the  one  in  the  centre  being  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the 
emperor  and  his  train. 

A  flagged  way,  thirty  feet  in  width  for  the  most  of  the  course,  runs 
around  the  entire  circuit.  But  the  road  in  midair  is  overgro^vn  witli 
a  rank  vegetation,  for  no  Chinese  civilian  or  woman  is  allowed  to  take 
a  promenade  on  this  ancient  lookout.  That  the  foreign  legations"  are 
permitted  to  do  so  is  an  especial  privilege  granted  by  Prince  Kung 
when  the  allies  had  obtained  certain  concessions  not  before  known. 


AT    THE    PALACE    OF    YUEN    MIN    YVEN,    PEKIN. 


Better  than  before  do  we  now  realise  the  situation  of  the  four  cities, 
each  walled  in,  that  form  the  entire  prospect  of  Pekin.  We  see  plainly 
the  low,  black-tiled  houses  of  the  Chinese  section,  the  yamens,  with  their 
tiled  roofs,  the  dense  tree-tops,  and  temple  crests  of  the  Tartar  city; 
beyond  these  the  huge  red  gates  of  the  Yellow  or  Imperial  City,  within 
which  are  easily  discerned,  for  something  like  two  miles,  the  impenetrable 
foliage  of  the  trees  rising  on  Meishan  knolls,  and  the  yellow-tiled  walls 
of  the  mysterious  Purple  Forbidden  City,  the  palace  roofs  of  yellow  tile 
looking  as  if  they  overhung  each  other.  There  are  no  tall  towers,  bright 
coloured  pagodas,  no  streaming  banners,  no  glimmer  of  flasliing  colours  to 


dazzle  the  eye  in  this  subhiiie  abode  of  the  Son  of  Heaven.  Even  the 
yellow  has  faded,  or  it  was  never  the  vivid  dream  our  imagination  had 
pictured  it  to  us.  But  it  is  quite  in  harmony,  after  all,  with  the  grim 
dragon  supposed  to  keep  eternal  watch  and  ward  over  the  Imperial  City. 
Mr.  Thomson,  in  describing  the  capital,  says,  rather  depreciatingly  :  "  There 
are  acres  of  hovels  at  Pekin,  in  which  the  Imperial  bannermen  herd,  and 
filth  seems  to  be  deposited  like  tribute  before  the  very  palace  gates ; 
indeed  there  is  hardly  a  spot  in  the  capital  that  does  not  make  one  long 
for  a  single  glimpse  of  that  Chinese  paradise  we  had  pictured  to  ourselves 
in  our  youth  —  for  the  bright  sky,  the  tea-fields,  orange  groves,  and  hedges 
of  jasmine,  and  for  the  lotus  lakes  filling  the  air  with  their  perfumes." 
It  is  seldom  the  real  rivals   the  ideal. 

A  mile's  walk  along  the  airy  road  brings  us  over  the  Chien-men,  or 
central  gate,  opening  upon  the  great  square  before  the  palace.  The 
street  underneath  us  now  is  really  the  main  artery  of  travel  and  business 
in  Pekin,  and  here,  as  nowhere  else  in  China,  can  one  look  upon 
an  endless  variety  of  city  life  and  costume,  incident  and  spectacular 
exhibitions  of  human  nature. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  features  of  this  city,  and  forming  a  happy 
contrast  to  the  women  of  southern  and  central  China,  are  the  Manchu 
ladies,  tall,  regal  of  carriage,  who  walk,  with  the  haughtiness  and  conscious 
pride  of  free  women,  upon  feet  that  have  not  been  mutilated.  In  keeping 
with  their  northern  beauty  and  proud,  dignified  manner  is  their  costume 
consisting  of  the  long  Manchu  robe,  the  most  becoming  and  picturesque 
of  any  attire  worn  in  the  empire.  But  their  crowning  glory  is  their  blue- 
black  hair,  which  they  deftly  fashion  into  outspread  raven's  wings,  and, 
ornamenting  it  with  great  bouquets  and  coronals  of  bright  flowers,  fasten 
with  broad  pins  of  glistening  gold.  Nowhere  in  the  Far  East  are  these 
magnificent  women  or  their  dress  equalled.  It  seems  enough  to  offset 
Manchu  tyranny  and  stagnation  that  such  fine  specimens  of  womanhood 
have  come  with  them. 

The  Tartar  section  of  Pekin  is  laid  out  with  a  regularity  quite  re- 
markable in  China.  The  sacred  city  of  the  emperor  is  situated  in  the 
centre,  and  the  middle  of  the  three  streets  running  directly  north  and 
south  through  the  Tartar  section  stops  at  the  palace  gates.  The  cross 
streets,  alleys,  and  other  thoroughfares  threading  the  city  always  run  in 


CHINKSK    bOLDIKUS    AT    WOOSl'NMJ 


CHINA. 


435 


direct  coiirses  either  parallel  with  the  main  streets  or  at  right  angles  tc 
them.  But  beyond  this  symmetry  of  arrangement  the  view  of  this  walled 
town  is  not  promising  or  interesting.  Sought  first  by  the  gaze  of  the 
foreigner,  is  seen  the  imperial  palace  of  the  Son  of  Heaven.  But,  as 
if  to  protect  it  from  the  vulgar  eyes  of  the  common  people,  it  is  enclosed 
by  walls  on  all  sides ;  and  the  inner  citadel  is  reached  only  by  passing 
through  a  bewildering  array  of  courts  and  "halls  of  sacred  harmon3\'* 
What  is  true  of  the  isolation  of  the  head  of  power  applies  to  his  suljjects, 


COREAN    peasant's    HUT. 


until  we  come  to  look  upon  the  thousands  of  huts  and  hovels,  whose 
occupants  are  too  poor  to  enclose  their  aljode  with  a  wall  of  its  own,  or 
arrange  halls  and  reception-rooms  beyond  which  not  even  the  most 
favoured  guest  may  be  allowed  to  enter.  "With  all  of  this  severe  isolation, 
from  the  sacred  citadel  of  the  emperor  to  the  mendicant  upon  the  street, 
whose  nakedness  is  covered  only  by  a  plaster-cast  of  Pekin  mud,  e'S'idence 
of  the  pride  and  dignity  of  the  people  is  ever^'where  apparent. 

No  sovereign  keeps  himself  aloof  from  his  subjects  in  such  seclusion 
and  mystery,  and  few  indeed  have  been  informed  of  the  lives  of  the  seven 
thousand  people  who  have  their  abode  within  the  charmed  precinct  formed 


within  a  four-mile  circle,  and  holding  as  its  precious  diadem  the  Tranquil 
Palace  of  the  Heavenly  Prince.  Few  inde^^d  have  been  permitted  to  enter 
the  hallowed  place,  except  the  envoys  and  their  suites  on  occasions  of 
ceremony. 

The  drum-tower  and  the  bell-tower,  both  Mongol  products,  are  situated 
in  the  northern  quarter  of  the  Imperial  City,  the  first  thundering  forth 
the  hours  in  a  volume  that  should  satisfy  the  wildest  Mongol  in  his  love 
for  sound,  while  the  other  shelters  the  big  bell  of  Yunglo,  the  former 
curfew  of  Pekin.  The  great  bell  of  Pekin  is  claimed  to  be  the  largest 
suspended  bell  in  the  world.  It  is  made  of  bronze,  and  is  thirty-four  feet 
in  circumference,  fourteen  feet  and  six  inches  in  height,  and  four  inches  in 
thickness  at  its  rim.  It  is  estimated  to  weigh  in  the  vicinity  of  175,000 
pounds.  The  surface,  both  inside  and  out,  is  covered  with  Chinese  charac- 
ters said  to  have  been  cast  on  the  bell.  This  inscription  is  a  lengthy 
appeal  to  the  overruling  power  for  rain,  and  at  one  time  it  is  said  the  beU 
was  tolled  during  droughts  to  bring  rain.  Here  priests  and  princes  came 
to  pray  for  an  end  to  the  rainless  period,  often  maintaining  their  kneeling 
postures  until  the  rain  began  to  fall,  when  a  feast  and  general  rejoicing 
followed. 

Among  the  other  attractions  of  Pekin  are  the  stone  drums.  The  word 
drum  must  be  understood  to  mean  what  we  should  call  a  cylinder,  the  Chinese 
having  no  character  for  such  a  term.  These  water-worn  boulders,  rudely 
carved  into  their  present  shape,  are  very  ancient,  as  can  be  seen  by  their 
appearance.  They  are  supposed  to  have  been  erected  in  commemoration  of 
one  of  the  famous  hunting  expeditions  of  an  emperor  of  the  Chou  dynasty 
in  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Chi,  in  the  present  district  of  Chi-Shan.  This 
was  ancestral  territory  of  the  Chou  dynasty.  The  stones  must  have  been 
inscribed  800  B.  c.  They  were  then  in  their  natural  shape  and  condition, 
but  were  afterward  chiselled  into  the  "'  drums "  as  they  are  now,  and 
removed  to  the  Confucian  Temple  of  Feng-Hsiang-fu,  where  they  found 
resting-place  until  the  end  of  the  Tang  dynasty  in  937  A.  D.  During  the 
long  and  sanguinary  wars  of  the  five  dynasties  these  relics  disappeared, 
and  remained  out  of  sight  and  unknown  until  Ssu-Ma-Chih,  the  prefect  of 
Feng-Hsiang-fu,  upon  the  restoration  of  the  Sung  rule  and  literature,  searched 
out  the  missing  monuments,  and  finding  nine  of  the  collection  placed  them 
by  the  gateway  of  the  Imperial  College.     The  tenth  and  last  was  found  in 


CHINA. 


4;]; 


1052  A.  D.,  so  the  entire  group  was  reunited.  Upon  the  flight  of  the  Sung 
dynasty  before  tlie  invasion  of  the  Khitan  Tartars  these  stone  drums  were 
taken  to  the  new  capital  in  Pien-Ching,  now  Kai-Fung-fu  in  Honan,  and 
set  up  anew  in  1108  a.  d.  It  was  then  ordered  that  the  tracings  of  the 
characters  sliould  be  filled  with  gold,  and  that  special  effort  be  made  to 
preserve  the  ancient  relics.  But  within  twenty  years  the  capital  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Kin  Tartars,  who  removed  the  drums  to  Pekin  and  dug 
out  the  gold  filling  the  markings  of  the  inscriptions.     After  this  the  ten 


SCENE    ON    HONAX    CANAL,    NKAK  CANTON. 


stones  remained  in  neglect  until  1307,  when  they  were  placed  in   their 
present  positions  in  the  gateway  of  the  Confucian  Temple. 

Every  autumn  witnesses  a  picturesque  sight  wlicn  the  Mongolian  herds- 
men bring  their  flocks  of  ponies  over  the  plains  to  sell  to  the  highest 
bidders.  These  ponies  are  very  popular  in  Pekin  and  vicinity  for  riding 
purposes.  As  movers  of  heavy  conuiKidities,  llie  big,  homely,  two-humped 
camels,  capable  of  bringing  great  loads  of  merchandise  across  the  wide, 
blinding,  snowy  steppes  of  Siberia,  have  a  unique  value,  and  can  be  re- 
placed by  no  other  beasts  of  burden.  One  of  the  huge  caravans  forms  a 
frequent  and  peculiar  picture  on  the  great  plains  of  the  North,  while  before 


the  arates  of  the  imperial  capital  an  incessant  stream  seems  to  be  for  ever 
Dassing.  -swinging  silently  along  like  huge,  ungainly  machines. 

An  hour's  ride  out  of  the  capital  brings  one  to  a  place  of  melancholy 
mterest  to  the  Chinese,  where  even  foreigners  have  ample  scope  for  reflec- 
tion over  the  rise  and 
fall  of  man  —  the  sum- 
mer  palace  of  the 
ancient  emperor.  We 
have  described  the  de- 
spoliation made  of  this 
famous  retreat  by  the 
allied  forces  in  1860. 
The  surroundings  at 
the  present  time  give 
little  indication  of  the 
scene  of  ruin  and  des- 
olation to  be  found 
within  its  midst.  The 
view  obtained  from  a 
n eigh bouring  elevation 
comprises  a  country  of 
hills  and  valleys,  beau- 
tiful lakelets  and 
sparkling  streams 
spanned  by  gracefully 
curved  bridges  and 
overhung  by  luxuriant 
foliage.  The  rich  al- 
luvial plain  stretches 
away  in  front,  dotted 
here  and  there  with  villages  and  groves  of  trees,  until  we  catch  a  hazy 
glimpse  of  the  Imperial  City  ;  on  the  other  hand  the  eye  runs  over  the 
historic  plain  of  Mongolia,  until  the  gaze  is  stopped  by  the  great  natural 
barrier  of  mountains. 

Of  the  original  buildings  belonging  to  this  place  only  two,  and  these 
among  the  smallest,  remain,  although  attempts  have  been  made  twice  to 


PAINTING    FROM     COREAN    TEMPLE. 


CHINA.  439 

rebuild  the  whole  affair.  These  are  a  temple  at  the  summit  of  tlie  Wang- 
Tua-Shan  hill,  painted  in  a  vivid  green,  red,  and  yellow,  with  tiles  of  blue. 
Porcelain  figures  of  Buddha  once  ornamented  the  structure,  but  the  vandal 
hands  of  sightseers  have  mutilated  these  beyond  repair.  The  second  of 
these  remnants  of  a  great  work  is  a  small  pagoda  in  the  same  colours  and 
ornate  display  as  the  other.  Standing  amid  the  impressive  ruins  of  this 
spot  Captain  Gill  very  fittingly  described  them  in  his  account  written  over 
twenty  years  ago,  but  as  applicable  now  as  then :  "  One  seems  to  Ije 
brought  here  face  to  face  with  the  wreck  of  an  empire.  Tlie  builders 
of  this  palace  seem  to  have  be(in  imbued  with  something  of  the  spirit  of 
those  who,  in  the  Middle  Ages  of  Europe,  raised  such  noble  monuments  of 
devotion  and  piety.  The  whole  soul  of  man  must  have  been  in  the  worlv ; 
no  part  was  neglected ;  no  money,  time  or  labour  spared ;  infinite  care  was 
bestowed  on  every  detail ;  notwithstanding  the  desolation  and  ruin,  there 
still  seems  to  breathe  over  all  the  spirit  of  a  master  mind."  Wandering 
over  the  saddened  scene,  looking  upon  the  ruins  of  man's  work,  or  admir- 
ing the  mirror-like  lakelet  that  has,  in  the  natural  sequence  of  affairs, 
reflected  so  many  strange  and  thrilling  sights  in  the  days  of  yore,  the 
most  careless  stranger  cannot  help  feeling  that  the  master  mind  who 
conceived  all  this  and  put  it  into  execution  must  have  faith  in  gaining 
human  happiness  if  not  in  the  consolation  of  divine  reward. 

About  a  mile  from  the  north  wall  of  Pekin  is  the  marble  cenotaph 
raised  over  the  relics  of  the  Tibetan  lama  who  was  believed  to  have  l^een 
an  incarnation  of  Buddha.  This  is  considered  by  many  to  be  the  noblest 
specimen  of  monument  to  be  found  in  the  Chinese  empire,  and  it  has 
made  famous  the  grounds  of  Hwang-She  Monastery  where  it  stands. 
There  is  reason  for  this  assertion,  and  as  the  beholder  stands  with  uncov- 
ered head  under  the  thick  foliage  of  cypress  and  pine  intermingling  their 
fragrant  shade,  he  must  indeed  be  devoid  of  human  sympatliy  who  can 
gaze  on  the  majestic  monument,  decorated  with  its  grotesque  sculptures 
and  gilded  crown,  without  feeling  compassion  for  the  Tiff  tliat  was  secretly 
plotted  away.  The  empty  throne  whereon  sat  this  human  deity  in  state, 
with  his  face  turned  toward  the  rising  sun,  and  the  couch  upon  which 
he  expired  in  the  throes  of  poison  administered  by  a  jealous  emperor,  are 
still  shown  the  visitor.  This  took  place  a  little  over  a  hundred  years  ago, 
and  the  story  is  told,  with  a  peculiar  mingling  of  pity  and  admiration,  of 


the  emperor's  open  worship  and  praise   of  tlie   pious  and  exalted   man, 
while  he  secretly  planned  to  remove  him  from  liis  patli  by  })oison. 

Three  days  takes  one  from  Pekin  to  tiie  Great  Wall,  but  if  the  traveller 
goes  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  see  this  piece  of  gigantic  folly,  he  had 
better  spare  himself  the  pains  and  time  of  the  journey.  As  a  colossal 
reminder  of  misapplied  intelligence  and  industry,  a  huge  stone  and  mud 
fence  winding  over  hills  and  into  valleys  for  over  a  thousand  miles,  of  no 
earthly  good  or  jDretence  to  attraction,  it  serves  well  its  ignoble  purpose. 


IMPERIAL    PALACE    AT    TSEAOU  -  SHAN. 


Lying  at  the  foot  of  a  semicircle  of  hills,  thirty  miles  north  of  Pekin, 
is  the  valley  of  the  Ming  tombs,  a  secluded  retreat  where  repose  thirteen 
of  the  emperors  of  the  dynasty  last  preceding  the  present  line  of  rule.  It 
will  be  remembered  that  the  founder  of  the  Ming  dynasty  established  his 
court  at  the  ancient  capital  of  Nankin,  and  the  first  mausoleum  of  these 
rulers  was  made  there.  But  the  site  did  not  seem  to  please  the  ambitious- 
monarchs,  and  the  tomb  of  Yung-lo,  the  third  in  succession,  was  made 
in  this  northland,  patterned  after  the  style  of  those  near  Nankin,  and,  in 
fact,  after  the  manner  of  architecture  to  be  seen  all  over  China,  but  far 
the  noblest  of  imperial  resting-places.     An  avenue  bordered  by  rows  of 


CHINA. 


441 


majestic  aninfals  and  warriors  sculptured  from  stone  leads  to  the  sacred 
abode  of  the  illustrious  dead.  Many  of  these  figures  are  in  positions  of 
repose,  aptly  illustrating  their  office  as  guardians  of  the  sleeping  rulers, 
and  are  considered  among  the  finest  evidences  of  Chinese  sculpture, 
though  falling,  according  to  our  ideas,  below  the  standard  of  modern  art. 
The  animals  and  warriors  are  supposed  to  be  the  representatives  of  his 
train  when  upon  earth,  and  offerings  to  his  spirit,  which  is  supposed  to 
have  its  abode  in  the  palace,  are  annually  made  in  the  great  sacrificial 


merchant's    house    in    the    SUBUItHS    OF    CANTON. 

hall.  The  emperors  of  tlie  present  dynasty  still  offer  their  sacrifices  at 
this  imperial  shrine,  either  through  policy  of  state  or  from  the  belief  that 
the  spirits  of  these  dethroned  monarchs  exert  an  influence  over  their 
dominion. 

There  are  twelve  other  sepulchres  patterned  after  tliis  of  Yuiiu-lo, 
though  scarcely  equalling  it  in  splendour,  making  in  all  lliat  ominous 
number  of  thirteen.  It  proved  ominous,  anyway,  in  this  case,  for  when 
the  last  of  this  ill-fated  number  had  been  ])uried  liere.  with  imposing 
ceremony,  the  dynasty  was  flung  down  by  the  Manchus,  and  the  last  of 
the  Mings  ended  his  humiliation  by  hanging  himself  to  a  tree,  without 


leaving  any  one  to  make  him  a  tomb  in  this  beautiful  valley  of  his  ances- 
tors, ""ome  of  the  Ming  tombs  are  said  to  have  been  robbed  of  a  portion 
of  their  treasures  to  help  enrich  the  tombs  of  the  Manchus  seventy  miles 
from  Pekin  in  another  direction.  If  this  l)e  true  or  not  no  outsider  can 
say,  since  the  Manchu  sepulchres  are  watched  over  by  guardians  who  have 
proved  so  far  above  bribes  that  the  glories  held  therein  have  never  been 
revealed  to  the  curious  foreigners. 


SrtEJg^Bi  !■■) 


CHINESE    SACKIFICK    To    THE    IIAKVEST    MU. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


THE    SIEGE    IN    PEKIX. 


WE  now  come  to  the  third  attack  by  foreign  forces  upon  the  Taku 
forts.  It  was  a  momentous  event  when  the  navies  of  the  eight 
national  powers  of  the  workl,  whose  warships  had  come  from 
the  utmost  parts  of  the  earth  to  meet  at  the  outlet  of  the  Pei-Ho,  made 
the  rivalry  of  race  prejudice  and  contest  of  government,  for  the  time, 
subservient  to  the  united  desire  of  standing  together  in  a  supreme  battle 
of  modern  civilisation  against  ancient  superstition. 

Tien-tsin  capitulated  after  four  weeks  of  suspense  to  the  world  at  large, 
and  of  conflict  to  those  engaged  in  the  brave  struggle  for  humanity. 
Blind  indeed  must  have  been  the  eyes  of  the  Old  Man  of  the  Far  East, 
else  he  must  have  read,  written  on  the  scroll  of  his  destiny,  the  signs 
of  his  doom.  If  he  remembered  the  two  warnings  he  had  received  in 
the  years  past,  or  realised  his  present  case,  he  remained  indifferent  to  the 
existing  situation. 

With  the  capture  of  Tien-tsin,  which  was  but  the  prelude  to  tlieir  main 
act  in  the  drama  of  rescue  and  retribution,  the  allied  powers,  marching 
under  the  banners  of  eight  governments,  began  their  advance  upon  the 


capital  of  the  empire.  This  united  force  consisted  of  the  arms  of  America, 
Great  Britain,  France,  Germany,  Austria,  Russia,  Italy,  and  Japan. 
History  has  never  had  opportunity  to  portray  another  such  an  array  of 
soldiers  marching  shoulder  to  shoulder  under  a  single  impulse,  though 
of  many  races  of  men. 

If  the  siege  of  Tien-tsin  seemed  overlong  to  the  expectant  outsiders,  Ikjw 
much  longer  and  more  terrible  the  uncertainty,  and  awfully  slow  that 
advance  upon  Pekin  seemed  to  the  beleaguered  ones  caged  at  the  Imperial 
City,  suffering  a  suspense  aroused  by  the  horrors  of  indiscriminate  mas- 
sacre that  every  moment  threatened  them.  Besides  the  ministers  of  the 
eight  nations  named,  there  were  those  from  Holland,  Belgium,  and  Spain, 
with  a  thousand  men,  women,  and  children  belonging  to  their  families,  or 
missionaries  and  their  friends  and  loved  ones.  In  addition  to  these,  there 
were  under  their  protection  nearly  two  thousand  natives  who  had  accepted 
the  Christian  religion,  and  thus  were  under  the  ban  of  their  own  race. 

In  many  respects  this  siege  in  Pekin  is  one  of  the  most  notable  on 
record.  One  of  the  singular  features  of  the  sanguine  occasion  is  the  fact 
that  the  rebellious  factors  who  began  the  serious  revolt  soon  disappeared 
from  the  scene  of  action  almost  entirely,  and  in  their  place  appeared  the 
sullen  defenders  of  the  tottering  empire. 

The  first  warning  of  real  danger  came  to  the  inmates  of  the  Legation 
quarter  of  the  city  on  the  28th  of  May,  1900,  when  an  old  man  and  his 
son,  the  sole  survivors  of  a  large  family  that  had  been  murdered  by  the 
Boxers,  entered  the  city  seeking  safety.  On  that- day  the  train  from 
Tien-tsin  came  as  far  as  Feng  Tai,  and  finding  that  place  in  flames  returned 
without  trying  to  get  through  to  the  capital. 

The  following  day  many  other  fugitives  flocked  to  the  city  in  terror,  and 
word  came  of  the  killing  of  a  Mr.  Robinson  and  his  friend  Mr.  Norman,  at 
Yung  Ching.  The  news  of  the  burning  of  the  railway  station  at  Huang 
Tsun,  fifteen  miles  from  Pekin,  was  also  brought  to  the  Legation. 

On  the  30th  of  May,  five  hundred  of  the  allied  troops,  who  had  been  sent 
out  to  repair  the  railroad,  and  who  w^ere  under  the  command  of  Admiral 
Seymour  and  Captain  McCalla,  reached  Pekin,  the  American  regiment, 
under  command  of  the  last-named  officer,  by  a  forced  march  reaching  the 
Chien  gate  in  advance.  Presenting  their  bayonets,  they  were  not  resisted 
by  the  Chinese  at  first,  but  when  the  critical  period  came,  and  they  were 


CHINA. 


445 


anxiously  looked  for  by  the  unfortunate  ones  within,  tliey  were  driven 
back  to  their  original  base,  and  proved  powerless  to  accomplish  the  relief 
so  much  desired. 

The  guards  ordered  out  for  the  protection  of  the  legations  barely  num- 
bered 450,  including  officers,  but  these  acted  with  sufficient  promptness  and 
effectiveness  to  avert  a  o^eneral  slaugchter  of  tlie  foreio-ners,  as  had  been 
planned  by  the  Boxers  to  be  carried  out  at  the  midsummer  festival,  which 
takes  place   the  first  of  June.     The   fine  Chinese  hand  of  the  empress 


QUEEN  S    PALACE,    COUEA. 


dowager  was  displayed  at  this  time.  She  lent  her  consent  and  inthicnce 
to  this  movement  by  allowing  a  common  destruction  of  tlie  street  we  have 
described  as  "  Legation  Street,"  but  to  give  the  idea  that  her  officials  were 
powerless  to  ward  this  off  stipulated  that  some  Chinese  blocks  near  by 
should  share  the  same  fate. 

Upon  receiving  word  of  this  premeditated  attack,  the  peo])]('  b(>c,iine 
alarmed  and  began  to  strengthen  their  respective  positions  as  iiiucli  as 
possible.  Probably  maddened  by  their  defeat  in  another  direction,  the 
Boxers,  assisted  more  or  less  by  the  Chinese  supposed  to  be  liyal  to 
the  government,  set  on  tire,  June  9th,  the  buildings  and  property  owned 


by  the  foreigners,  but  situated  in  the  Chinese  section  of  the  city.  By  this 
conflagration  not  only  were  the  chapels  and  houses  destroyed,  but  the 
storehouses,  containing  foreign  goods  estimated  to  be  worth  between 
twenty-five  and  fifty  millions  of  dollars,  were  burned  up  by  the  wild  rab- 
ble, that  fancied  it  was  striking  a  blow  at  foreign  industry  and  competition. 
During  the  fire,  the  great  central  gate  of  the  Tartar  City  caught  from 
the  flames  and  was  burned.  Only  a  change  of  the  wind  saved  the  city 
and  the  Foreign  Legation.  The  Boxers  during  the  following  week  applied 
the  torch  to  churches,  schoolhouses,  chapels,  and  cathedrals  in  the  north- 
ern city,  whose  fires  were  to  be  seen  on  every  night  sending  high  into  the 
sky  the  fiery  messages  of  the  terrible  work  begun  here. 

The  foreigners  no  longer  hesitated  about  joining  their  people  under 
their  respective  flags,  while  the  missionaries  brought  with  them  their 
converts.  The  work  of  fortifying  went  on  with  more  earnestness  than 
ever.  Fences  with  barbed  wires  were  put  up,  lines  of  sharpened  stakes 
were  set,  ditches  dug,  high  walls  built  across  street  and  alleys,  platforms 
for  outlooks  erected,  while  bricks  were  torn  up  wherever  they  could  be 
found  to  fasten  gates  and  close  windows.  On  the  11th  of  June,  soldiers 
and  relief  were  anticipated,  but  when  troops  went  to  the  station  to  meet 
them,  taking  along  carts  to  bring  in  the  baggage  of  the  soldiers,  no 
soldiers  were  there  —  no  train !  The  gallant  McCalla  and  his  marines 
had  been  driven  back  toward  Tien-tsin. 

The  purpose  of  the  reigning  power  became  apparent  on  the  19th  of 
June,  when  a  proclamation  was  sent  out  declaring  that  as  the  allied  powers 
had  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  forts  at  Tien-tsin  the  action  must  be 
taken  to  mean  war  against  China,  and  that  every  foreigner  must  leave 
Pekin  within  twenty-four  hours.  The  Boxer  vanished  from  the  scene  at 
this  act  in  the  drama,  except  as  a  tool  of  the  government. 

A  meeting  was  immediately  held  among  the  ministers,  and  it  was 
decided  that  the  demand  of  the  Chinese  government  could  not  be  met. 
In  this  critical  situation  it  was  decided  to  gain  as  much  time  as  possible 
by  parleying  with  the  enemy.  Major  Conger  replied  that  so  far  as  his 
government,  that  of  the  United  States,  was  concerned,  the  claim  of  declar- 
ing war  had  no  bearing.  Even  if  that  were  the  case,  it  would  be  impossible 
to  secure  means  of  transportation  from  Pekin  within  twenty-four  hours. 
There  were  two  other  obstacles  in  the  way  of  such  a  flight  which  he  did 


CHINA. 


447 


not  deem  it  good  policy  to  mention.  One  of  these  was  the  necessity  of 
abandoning  the  Chinese  Christians  to  the  mercies,  or  rather  cruelties,  of 
the  rulers  of  the  city ;  the  second  was  the  fact  that  a  departure  under  the 
conditions  existing  was  considered  more  hazardous  than  to  remain  where 
they  were,  shut  up  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Imperial  City. 

With  the  evident  intention  of  arousing  the  foreigners  to  some  rash  act, 
the  Chinese  sent  two  Boxers,  mounted  in  a  cart,  through  the  streets  in 
sight  of  the  legations.     No  one  pretended  to  notice  them  until  they  came 


FESTIVAL  OF  THE  DRAGON  -  BOAT. 


to  pass  the  German  quarter,  when  one  was  arrested,  and  the  other  escaped 
by  flight.  The  one  captured  was  held  as  a  prisoner.  Baron-  von  Ketteler, 
in  command,  giving  him  a  drubbing  with  his  cane  as  he  was  led  away. 

The  following  morning,  the  20th  of  June,  Baron  von  Kctlclcr.  being 
the  only  minister  who  could  speak  Chinese,  thought  tliat  be  might  gain 
something  by  talking  over  the  situation  with  the  othcials.  At  the  entrance 
to  the  Tsungli  Yamen,  Chinese  Foreign  Board,  lie  was  requested  to  ex- 
chana^e  his  o;uard  of  marines  for  a  Chinese  escort,  whieh  he  consented  to 
do  without  dreaming  of  the  treachery  planned,  llis  men  were  barely  out 
of  sight  before  he  was  shot  through  the  head  as  he  sat  in  his  chair,  and 


his  secretary  was  wounded  while  trying  to  escape.  It  was  believed  that 
a  mandarin  belonging  to  some  secret  society,  as  indicated  by  the  button 
he  wore,  fired  the  fatal  shot. 

Later  in  tlie  same  day.  Professor  James,  of  the  Imperial  University, 
was  shot  while  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  canal.  The  others,  expect- 
ing the  enemy  would  begin  a  general  attack,  became  greatly  alarmed. 
Those  at  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Mission  abandoned  everything  they 
could  not  carry  in  their  hands  and  fled  to  the  Britisli   Legation.     The 


(■()i:p:ax   landscape. 


curious  mixture  of  people  and  their  number  is  told  by  the  following  list : 
The  different  nationalities  included  British,  American,  French,  German, 
Italian,  Austrian,  Belgian,  Finn,  Dane,  Dutch,  Norwegian,  Irish,  Scotch, 
Portuguese,  Spanish,  Canadian,  Australian,  Russian,  and  Japanese.  There 
were  245  men,  149  women,  and  79  children  ;  total,  473.  Besides  these 
there  were  409  marines,  divided  among  the  nationalities  as  follows : 
Japanese,  29  ;  Italian,  30  ;  Austrian,  35  ;  French,  45  ;  German,  50  ;  Ameri- 
can, 53 ;  Russian,  84.  There  were  about  eight  hundred  Protestant 
Chinese  here,  and  nearly  two  thousand  who  belonged  to  the  Catholic 
Church. 


CHINA. 


449 


Notwithstanding  their  promise  of  maintaining  an  armistice,  the  Chinese 
began  firing  that  evening,  keeping  up  a  vigorous  fusilade  almost  con- 
tinuously. But  the  greatest  danger  lay  in  the  torch,  which  was  frequently 
applied.  On  one  of  these  occasions  the  magnificent  palace  of  Han  Lin 
Academy  was  set  on  fire  by  the  ruthless  horde,  who  used  for  their  fire- 
brands the  books  and  ancient  manuscripts  of  great  value  belonging  to 
the  most  expensive  library  in  the  Chinese  empire.  Some  of  the  rare  books 
were  rescued,  to  be  stored  at  the  house  of  Sir  Claude  MacDonald  ;  some 


EXTRANCK  TO  TEMPLE  OE  HONAN,  CANTON. 


were  thrown  into  the  pond,  l)ut  more  of  them  were  consumed  in  the 
flames.  Among  the  most  rare  and  valuable  of  the  works  that  perished 
in  this  ignoble  manner  were  "  Yung  Lo  Ta  Tien,"  an  unprinted  collection 
of  twenty-two  thousand  \olumes  of  China's  choicest  literature,  which 
cannot  be  duplicated.  This  wholesale  destruction  of  literature  displayed 
the  Chinese  spirit  of  old,  and  is  equalled  only  among  other  races  by  the 
burning  of  the  Alexandrian  library.  Many  of  the  wooden  printing-blocks 
were  kept  by  the  besieged  to  kindle  their  fires. 

It  required  the  most  energetic  efforts  of  the  members  of  the  legations 
to   conquer  this   fire  and   beat  back   the   enemy.     From  that  tnne    this 


ruined  building  became  one  of  the  most  hotly  contested  points  in  the  field, 
the  conflict  often  becoming  hand-to-hand. 

Another  of  the  fiercely  contested  spots  was  a  portion  of  the  wall  which 
the  Chinese  held,  and  from  whose  vantage-ground  they  poured  a  galling 
fire.  Had  these  Chinese  possessed  heavy  artillery,  they  might  have  routed 
completely  the  little  band  of  brave  defenders.  As  it  was,  by  sheer  force 
of  numbers,  they  finally  drove  the  allied  troops  back,  until  it  seemed  as 
if  all  were  lost.  Then  it  was  decided  that  the  place  must  be  recovered 
and  held,  or  the  direst  result  must  follow.  In  this  desperate  crisis  about 
sixty  men,  consisting  of  Americans,  British,  and  Russians,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Myers,  of  the  United  States  Marines,  prepared  to 
renew  the  attack.  The  appeal  of  Captain  Myers  to  his  followers  is  worthy 
of  reproduction,  as  an  indication  of  his  own  valour,  and  the  undaunted 
purpose  of  his  gallant  little  band.  '  Lifting  his  sword  so  it  pointed  toward 
the  British  Legation,  he  said : 
'  ''  My  men,  yonder  are  four  hundred  women  and  children  whose  lives 
depend  upon  our  success.  If  we  fail,  they  must  perish,  and  we  also. 
You  know  your  duty ;  go  when  I  say  '  Go  ! '  " 

This  stirring  speech  had  instant  effect.  Though  the  Russians  had  not 
understood  a  word  that  was  uttered,  the  air  of  the  speaker  and  his 
gestures  impressed  them  with  the  stern  determination  of  their  leader. 
The  onset  was  made,  and  the  little  band  of  heroes  did  not  fight  in  vain. 
Surprised  by  the  swiftness  of  the  attack,  the  Chinese  fell  back,  the  wall 
was  carried  and  held  by  the  allies.  But  it  cost  the  lives  of  several  of 
the  brave  fellows,  and  among  others  the  indomitable  leader  was  severely 
wounded. 

One  of  the  brightest  instances  of  heroism  in  all  that  trying  siege  Avas 
the  defence  of  three  thousand  native  converts,  who  had  taken  refuge  in 
the  northern  cathedral,  w^iich  stood  in  open  ground.  The  leader  of  the 
gallant  defenders  was  Monsieur  Favier,  assisted  by  forty  marines,  made 
up  of  French,  Italians,  and  Austrians,  who  volunteered  to  protect  the 
fuo-itives,  while  a  band  of  Chinese  Christians  performed  a  valiant  part. 
This  scene  was  cut  off  from  communication  with  the  legations  besieged 
less  than  two  miles  away,  and  the  real  situation  was  not  known  until 
after  the  struggle  was  over. 

An  apt  illustration  of  the  singular  make-up  of  the  body  of  the  imperilled 


CHINA. 


451 


foreigners  was  shown  at  one  of  the  fires  set  by  the  Chinese,  when  they 
formed  a  bucket  line  to  the  nearest  well,  —  the  representative  of  nearly 
every  race  under  the  sun,  — from  Madame  Piclou,  the  wife  of  the  French 
minister,  and  Miss  Armstrong,  the  sister  of  Lady  MacDonald,  to  the  last 
coolie,  each  helping  in  a  counnon  cause. 

The  days  and  weeks  dragged  slowly  away,  one  after  anotlier  of  the 
besieged  parties  falling  before  the  fire  of  the  enemy,  until  eight  weeks  had 
passed  without  bringing  any  sign  of  relief.     There  was  no   munmirincr, 


THK  GKAND  TKMI'LE  AT  POO  -  TOO,  CHUSAN  I8I.ANMS. 


but  all  looked  hopefully  forward,  while  prepared  to  meet  the  result,  should 
ihe  Chinese  eventually  prove  victors,  in  a  manner  both  Jieroic  and  tragical. 
Doctor  Martin  relates  how  he  overheard  a  young  ami  hcautifnl  woman  say 
to  Captain  Myers  :  "  Remember,  if  the  Chinese  are  successful,  that  it  is  your 
duty  to  shoot  me."  It  is  believed  that  every  woman  there  looked  forward 
to  this  end,  should  the  worst  happen.  Many  of  them  carried  revolvers 
with  which  to  shoot  their  children  and  then  themselves,  in  case  their  hus- 
bands could  not  reach  them.  And  these  were  Christian  peoi)le,  preparing 
themselves  for  this  fate,  rather  than  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  captors  who 


would  make  their  captivity  so  horrible  that  in  comparison  to  it  death  held 
no  terror. 

In  most  cases  this  was  the  reward  for  years  of  patient  sacrifice  and 
labour.  There  were  those  in  tliat  band  who  had  given  the  best  years  of 
their  lives  to  the  cause  of  education,  science,  or  government,  and  such  was 

the  ingratitude  of  those  whom  they 
had  endeavoured  to  raise  to  a  liigher 
standard  of  enlightenment  and  moral- 
ity, that  the  latter  were  now  thirsting 
for  their  lives. 

If   evidence   had   been   wanting   to 
show  that  it  would  be  the  height   of 
folly  for   the   foreigners  to  surrender, 
expecting  to  save  their  lives,  this  was 
furnished    when,    under    cover    of    a 
painted  board  intended  for  a  flag  of 
truce,  the  Chinese  asked  for  a  confer- 
ence.    Then  they  stated  that  they  had 
killed    all    of    the   Boxers,   and   were 
anxious  to  settle  the  matter  amicably, 
promising   not   to    fire    upon    the    be- 
sieged any  more.     At  this  very  time, 
while  they  believed  they  were  holding 
the  attention  of  these  people,  Chinese 
soldiers  were  creeping  up  to  build  an 
intrenchment  nearer  to  them   on  the 
west.      Fortunately    these    were    dis- 
covered by  the  British  and  routed  ic 
season. 
On  July  7th  the  Chinese  made  two  loopholes  in  the  Imperial  City  wall, 
which  looked  down  upon  the  foreigners  like  the  big  eyes  of  some  terrible 
monster,  and  mounted  on  the  top  of  the  wall  a  big  gun.     As  this  com- 
manded a  sweep  of  the  moat,  it  made  it  dangerous  to  pass  over  to  the  Fu. 
The  largest  weapon  that  the  besieged  had  was  a  one-pound  Italian  piece. 
\nd  the  ammunition  for  this  was  nearly  gone. 
At  this  time  one  of  the  Christian  Chinese  announced  that  there  was  an 


ANCIENT  BRONZE  BREECH  -  LOADING 
CANNON  COREAN. 


CHINA. 


453 


old,  muzzle-loading  cannon  among  some  litter  in  a  storehouse.  This 
proved  to  be  capable  of  use,  and  as  the  Russians  had  some  shells,  and  the 
Italians  a  gun-carriage,  the  ancient  weapon  was  mounted  upon  the  last, 
and  loaded  with  bomb-shells.  It  was  tested,  to  be  found  equal  to  sending 
a  ball  through  four  walls.  An  American  named  Mitchell,  who  had  been 
gunner  of  the  smaller  Italian  piece,  now  assumed  charge  of  this,  which 
was  most  appropriately  named  "  The  International,"  for  it  was  a  Chinese 
gun  on  an  Italian  carriage,  carrying  Russian  shells,  and  tired  by  an 
American.  It  made  a  tremendous  noise  at  each  explosion,  which  carried 
perhaps  as  great  terror  to  the  enemy  as  did  its  ill-adapted  amiuuuitiou. 


'    "',r;>:AU"^:-:i' 


'i 


CAMEL    CARAVANS    ON   PLAINS    OP    MONGOLIA. 


As  difficult  as  it  was  to  handle,  it  was  looked  upon  as  a  i:>rize  by  those  who 
had  charo-e  of  it. 

Ten  days  after  the  finding  of  the  above  gun,  or  on  the  evening  of  July 
I7th,  a  messenger  brought  a  letter  to  Major  Conger  and  n  toli\uT;nn  in 
cipher,  which  caused  considerable  wonder  and  trouble.  Tlie  despatch, 
which  was  in  the  code  of  the  State  Department,  seemed  to  l)e  incomplete, 
and  read:  "Washington,  Conger,  send  tidings,  bonror."  Tlio  letter  was 
for  Sir  Claude  MacDonald,  and  stated  that  in  reply  to  his  of  the  l"»lh 
more  Chinese  troops  were  on  the  way  to  help  protect  the  legations.  This 
was  signed  by  Prince  Ching  and  others.  But  its  friendly  tone  was 
discounted  by  the  tiring  of  seven  shells  almost  simultaneoush'  witli  the 


arrival  of  the  messenger,  who  was  at  once  looked  upon  as  a  spy  sent  to 
observe  where  the  shells  fell. 

The  following  day  Major  Conger  sent  to  "  Prince  Ching  and  others  "  for 
a  completion  to  the  telegram,  and  to  know  wliere  it  had  come  from.  The 
explanation  clears  up  the  mystery,  as  it  proved  to  have  been  included  in  a 
cablegram  from  the  Chinese  Minister  Wu  to  his  government,  and  the  date 
belonging  to  that  had  not  been  taken  in  sending  to  Major  Conger.  The 
cablegram  in  full  read :  "  United  States  gladly  assist  China,  but  they  are 
thinking  of  Major  Conger.  Enclosed  is  message  inquiring  for  his  health. 
Please  deliver  and  forward  reply."  Major  Conger's  reply  was  as  follows: 
"  Surrounded  and  fired  upon  by  Chinese  for  a  month.  If  not  relieved  soon^ 
massacre  will  follow."  This  message  was  entrusted  to  the  Tsungli  Yamen 
upon  the  promise  that  it  should  be  forwarded  at  once. 

The  last  mail  went*out  of  Pekin  June  14th,  and  only  the  most  meagre 
information  as  to  what  was  taking  place  outside  reached  the  legations. 
Naturally  the  desire  for  news  of  any  kind  was  very  great,  and  the  sight  of 
a  paper  on  July  20th  created  intense  interest.  It  was  a  copy  of  the  Court 
Gazette,  the  government  official  organ,  and  the  oldest  newspaper  in  the 
world.  The  copy  was  obtained  and  brought  in  secretly  by  an  agent  sent 
out  by  Rev.  Elwood  G.  Tewksbury,  who  had  been  principal  of  the  college 
at  Tung  Chau,  fifteen  miles  east  of  Pekin.  This  man  reported  many 
Boxers  hanging  about  the  Ha-ta  gate  in  friendly  conversation  with  the 
Chinese  soldiers. 

Among  other  bits  of  news,  the  Gazette  contained  an  account  of  the 
death,  by  order  of  the  empress  dowager,  of  four  ministers  in  the  Tsungli 
Yamen,  who  had  been  influential  friends  in  their  behalf.  They  felt  keenly 
this  loss,  knowing  it  was  so  much  against  them  as  regarded  their  own  fate. 
In  this  connection  it  should  be  said  that  without  doubt  Prince  Ching,  who, 
it  will  be  remembered,  was  associated  with  the  telegram  received  by  Major 
Conger  on  the  evening  of  the  17th,  wa^  a  secret  but  powerful  friend  to 
them.  It  is  true  he  w^as  not  able  boldly  to  defy  the  empress,  but  as  com- 
mander of  the  City  Guard,  numbering  fifty  thousand  Manchu  soldiers,  with 
his  tact  and  determination  he  managed  to  keep  in  check  this  furious  mob, 
which  if  it  had  been  allowed  to  obey  the  w-ill  of  the  female  tyrant  at  en- 
mity with  all  foreigners,  the  most  terrible  consequence  must  have  speedily 
followed. 


CHINA. 


455 


Finally  the  ominous  day  came  when  the  supply  of  provisions  ran  low^ 
and  starvation  stared  the  ill-fated  garrison  in  the  face.  All  of  the  horses 
had  been  eaten,  and  nudes  to  the  number  of  eighty,  leaving  only  four  to 
share  the  fate.  Relief  nnist  come  soon  or  it  would  come  too  late. 
In  this  matter  of  food  supply  unstinted  praise  should  be  bestowed  upon  a 
Swiss  innkeeper  by  the  name  of  Chamot.  This  noble  man  and  his  wife^ 
both  young,  had  recently  opened  a  hotel,  and  out  of  pity  for  the  beleaguered 
legations  began  to  furnish  them  Avith  bread.     It  was  no  small  task  to  feed 


PAVILION    AND    GAKHKXS     OK     A     "MANnviMN. 


so  many  mouths,  and  his  bakery  Avas  run  night  and  day  witli  ;iM  the  lielp 
available.  He  delivered  the  food  himself,  and  scarcely  ever  was  he  allowed 
to  cross  the  bridii:e  with  his  bread-cart  without  beimr  the  taru:et  f<>r  nianv 
rifles.  His  cart  was  marked  with  numerous  bullet-holes,  and  at  one  time 
his  little  flag,  so  dear  to  the  gaze  of  those  he  was  endcMvourinu-  to  succour, 
was  shot  away.  His  visits  were  made  twice  a  day,  every  morning  and 
again  at  evening,  and  even  though  his  bread  was  ])oor.  as  it  nnist  have 
been  under  the  circumstances,  he  was  hailed  as  a  deliveriuLT  benefactor. 
It  is  pleasant  to  know  that  the  French  minister  will  endeavour  to  have  his 
name  placed  on  that  roll  of  fame,  the  Legion  oi  Honour.      In  tlie  hearts  of 


the  survivors  of  that  awful  siege  in  Pekin  his  name  is  enrolled  among  the 
heroes  of  that  ill-fated  summer. 

It  was  estimated  that  during  the  two  weeks  following  the  10th  of  July 
nearly  three  thousand  cannon  balls  or  shells  were  sent  into  the  legation 


'^^■^'^^S^^^^^^^^^^^^gM^:;;^^ 


COREAN  LANDSCAPE,  COUNTRY  HOUSE. 

quarters,  as  many  as  four  hundred  droj^ping  among  the  besieged  in  a  single 
day.  Fortunately,  for  a  time  the  Chinese  fired  so  high  that  many  of  their 
shots  flew  harmless,  but  a  Norwegian,  crazed  by  the  ordeal,  escaped  among 
the  enemies,  to  warn  them  of  this  failing  of  their  marksmen.  After  this 
untoward  affair  the  fire  of  the  Chinese  was  more  disastrous  than  before. 
The    dangerous    madman    was    later    recaptured    by    the    legations,    and 


CHINA. 


457 


kept  under  close  surveillance,  though  it  took  seven  men  to  look  after 
him. 

On  the  23d  of  July  the  hearts  of  all  were  cheered  by  the  report  that  the 
Japanese  minister  had  received  word  that  a  relief  might  be  expected  soon. 
During  a  so-called  truce  that  followed,  Chinese  bullets  continued  to  fall  like 
hail  among  the  hopeless  men  and  women,  who  were  to  learn  that  this 
intelligence  was  not  reliable. 

The  first  actual  announcement  which  reached  the  besieged  was  ]:)rought  by 


CHAl'KL  IX  THK  CHEAT  TKMI'Li:,  MACAO. 


a  heroic  Chinese  boy,  who  had  been  sent  witli  a  message  to  Tien-tsin  some 
time  before.  He  started  with  this  precious  letter  wrapped  in  oiled  paper, 
and  placed  at  the  bottom  of  a  bowl  of  porridge.  Upon  breaking  the  bowl 
before  getting  out  of  the  city,  the  brave  boy  wouml  the  .letter  ardinid  one 
of  his  fingers,  and  then  covered  it  with  a  rag.  He  failed  to  esca])e  the 
Boxers,  and  he  was  put  to  work  by  them.  After  eight  days  of  this  captiv- 
ity he  succeeded  in  escaping,  to  eventually  reacli  Tien-tsin.  How  gladly 
his  message  and  appeal  for  help  was  received  may  be  imagined.  But  he 
stopped  here  less  than  two  hoiu's,  barely  long  enough  to  get  a  repl}'  from 
the  British  consul  to  Sir  Claude  MacDonald,  when  he  set  forth  on  his 


perilous  return.  His  adventures  would  fill  a  whole  chapter,  but  it  is 
sufficient  for  us  to  know  that  he  made  the  journey  successfully,  his  appear- 
a,nce  being  hailed  with  joy  at  the  legation.  The  letter  he  Ijrought  told 
without  any  chance  for  suspicion  that  troops  were  at  last  getting  in  readi- 
ness to  start  to  their  relief.  Then  the  question  uppermost  in  every  mind 
was : 

"  When  will  they  get  here  ?  " 

The  principal  disguise  assumed  by  this  intrepid  Chinese  youth  of  sixteen 
was  that  of  a  blind  beggar.  That  the  letters  he  carried  might  not  be 
taken  from  him,  he  sewed  them  in  between  the  soles  of  his  shoes,  and  thus 
saved  them  from  being  found  by  the  enemy,  though  he  was  searched  three 
times.  Without  professing  to  be  a  Christian,  he  proved  his  fidelity  to  the 
■cause  of  those  whom  he  had  chosen  as  his  protectors  by  highest  faith  and 
efficiency. 

The  number  of  killed  and  wounded,  as  shown  by  the  rolls  on  the  1st  of 
August,  was  as  follows,  with  the  legation  to  which  each  belonged  specified : 


LEGATION. 

KILLED. 

WOUNDED. 

Austria 

.         4 

10 

(one  civilian) 

France 

.       11 

(two  civilians) 

24 

(four  civilians) 

Great  Britain 

5 

(two  civilians) 

22 

(seven  civilians) 

Germany 

.     11 

(one  civilian) 

13 

Italy    .         .         . 

.       7 

12 

Japan  . 

.     10 

(five  civilians) 

16 

(five  civilians) 

Russia 

.       4 

(one  civilian) 

13 

(one  civilian) 

United  States 

.      7 

10 

(one  civilian) 

Total 


59 


120 


This  account  would  do  scanty  justice  to  the  leaders  of  the  different 
divisions  if  special  mention  were  not  made  of  the  serious  wound  of  the 
intrepid  Captain  Halliday  of  a  British  regiment,  and  the  death  of  his 
successor,  Captain  Strouts,  at  the  hands  of  the  Chinese  sharpshooters. 
Mention  has  been  made  of  the  shooting  of  Captain  Myers  while  he  was 
leading  his  gallant  charge  on  the  wall,  and  another  brave  officer.  Captain 
Wray,  was  shot  in  the  head  while  urging  on  his  men  to  capture  a  Chinese 
gun,  but  his  wound  did  not  prove  fatal.  The  captain  of  the  French 
marines  was  shot  dead,  while  Captain  Riley,  of  tne  United  States  Navy, 


CHINA 


459 


fell  to  rise  no  more  while  directing  an  artillery  attack  on  the  palace  gate. 
The  manner  in  which  Baron  von  Ketteler,  the  German  minister,  was 
treacherously  slain,  and  the  shooting  of  Professor  James  on  the  hridge, 
have  both  been  described.  Toward  the  close,  Mr.  Knobel,  the  Netherlands 
minister,  was  shot  in  the  knee,  while  the  redoubtable  Mitchell,  the  Ameri- 
can  gunner  of  the  gun  International,  was  wounded  at  his  post  of  duty. 

The    number   killed    among    the   Chinese   is  not   known,  though  they 
acknowledged  a  large  number  slain,  among  them  several  otticers,  one  a 


COREAX    TYPK9. 


'brigadier-general.  The  small  number  who  died  of  illness  among  the 
legations  was  surprising,  considering  that  the  siege  lasted  through  the 
suunner  months,  when  the  heat  of  Pekin  is  usually  intense.  Fortunately 
for  theui,  the  time  of  their  siege  was  marked  with  unconmioiily  tool 
weather  for  the  season  of  the  year. 

The  suspense  continuing  to  grow  more  and  more  unendurable  as  day 
after  day  passed  without  bringing  the  expected  relief,  it  seemed  on  the 
night  following  the  13th  of  August,  when  the  Chinese  kept  up  one  of 
the  worst  cannonades  they  had  made  since  the  beginning  of  the  siege, 
that  the  end  was  near.     Nobody  could  sleep,  and  the  horror  of  the  morrow 


was  too  dreadful  to  contemplate.  But  rescue  was  nearer  at  hand  now 
than  the  sufferers  dared  to  think. 

A  little  past  midnight  a  sentry  gave  the  joyous  cry  : 

"  They  come  !     The  troops  are  here  !  " 

Men  rushed  out  into  the  open  air  before  the  words  were  fairly  uttered. 
There  was  no  delay  in  dressing,  for  no  one  thought  of  laying  aside  his 
clothes  during  such  a  time  as  that.  The  good  news  spread  rapidly,  and 
soon  the  women  appeared  on  the  exciting  scene.  The  playing  of  the  guns 
on  the  outside  of  the  city  made  glad  music  to  the  overwrought  men  and 


HOUSE    OF    A    CHINESE    MERCHANT    NEAR    CANTON. 

women  and   children.     Those   who   were   present  will   never   forget  that 
hour. 

One  of  the  participants,  Doctor  Martin,  in  writing  of  the  event  says : 
"  Overwhelmed  with  joy,  some  impulsive  ladies  threw  themselves  on  each 
other's  necks  and  wept  aloud.  As  the  women  of  Lucknow  listened  to  the 
bagpipes  of  Havelock's  Highlanders,  so  the  ladies  of  the  long-besieged 
legations  listened  to  the  playing  of  the  guns  on  the  outer  walls.  The 
next  morning,  at  ten  o'clock,  the  great  gates  of  the  legation  were  thrown 
open,  and  in  came  a  company  of  mounted  Sikhs,  perhaps  the  finest 
cavalry  that  I  ever  beheld,  and  with  their  long  spears  and  high  turbans 


CHINA.  461 

they  appeared  the  handsomest  men  on  whom  my  eyes  had  ever  rested. 
So,  perhaps,  hy  the  magnifying  effect  of  time  and  circumstances,  they 
appeared  to  all  of  us  as  the  vanguard  of  the  army  of  relief.  They  had 
come  in  through  the  water-gate,  by  which  the  passage  would  have  been 
impossible  but  for  the  occupation  of  the  wall  by  our  marines." 

The  other  troops  of  the  allied  forces  entered  a  little  later  by  the  front 
gate,  the  Chinese  giving  way  on  every  hand.  Thus  at  last  the  release 
was  effected,  though  not  without  many  hardships  and  the  cost  of  many 
lives,  on  the  part  of  the  rescuers,  who  had  been  obliged  to  conquer  a  large 
city  before  starting  upon  their  memorable  march  to  Pekin. 

The  various  divisions  of  the  allies  took  possession  of  respective  sections 
of  the  subjugated  capital,  and  above  the  public  buildings  floated  the  flag  of 
the  power  folding  the  place,  until  everywhere  the  eight  flags  of  the 
Manchus  gave  way  to  the  eight  ^  flags  of  their  allied  conquerors.  Thus, 
her  gate-towers  dismantled  and  burned,  her  public  buildings  in  ashes,  her 
treasures  looted  by  unscrupulous  foreigners,  and  everywhere  greater  havoc 
wrought  by  the  infuriated  Boxers,  the  pride  of  the  haughty  Bahylon  of 
the  Far  East  was  humbled  in  the  dust.  It  will  take  a  cycle  of  Cathay  to 
restore  anything  like  its  former  splendour. 

If  charged  with  plundering  and  looting  to  an  extent  which  is  disgrace- 
ful,—  the  American  troops  held  aloof  from  this,  —  yet  the  allies  in  a  large 
measure  returned  good  for  evil.  Forgetting  the  outrages  of  Tai  Yuen, 
where  ninety-three  Protestant  missionaries  and  Catholics  were  murdered 
in  cold  blood  at  the  instigation  of  its  infamous  governor,  and  of  Pao  Ting 
fu,  the  scene  of  another  brutal  atrocity,  they  spared  the  imperial  palaces, 
and  left  the  empress  dowager  to  her  seclusion.  It  was  enough  for  them 
that  they  entered  the  Forbidden  City  in  armed  array  to  convey  to  the 
cowering  Chinese  the  fact  that  they  came  as  conquerors. 

lit  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  ruling  race  of  China  was  made  up  of  the  same  number  of  clans. 


GATE    OF    SEOUL,    OUKEA. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 


CHIN^A    AT    THE    BEGINNING    OF    THE    NEW    CENTURY. 


THE  siege  in  Pekin  raised  by  the  allied  powers,  and  her  capital  the 
armed  camp  of  foreign  troops,  the  Chinese  Empire  enters  upon  the 
new  century  under  influences  and  conditions  likely  at  last  to 
awaken  the  ancient  sleeper  to  a  new  order  of  things  of  which  he  has  never 
dreamed.  China  is  in  fact  a  country  of  gigantic  possibilities  confronted 
with  dwarfed  realities.  The  situation  is  looked  upon  by  many  as  "  the 
break-up  of  China."  Colonel  Yule  disposed  of  this  idea  in  a  few  words 
as  a  foot-note  to  his  book,  by  saying : 

"  It  has  broken  up  before  !  " 

So  it  has.  In  fact,  the  glory  of  its  long  career  has  consisted  chiefly  of 
breaking  up.  The  mending,  such  as  it  was,  has  always  been  done  by  out- 
side power.  Its  present  plight  is  a  bad  one,  viewed  in  whatever  light  it 
may  be ;  but  it  was  in  worse  shape  when  Confucius  went  from  district  to 
district  rousing  the  leaders  and  the  masses  to  a  new  life.  It  needs  now 
only  a  modern  sage,  with  modern  ideas  of  development,  to  bestow  upon 
the  long-lived   empire  a  splendour  before  which  all   past  glory  will  be 


CHINA.  463 

dimmed,  a  splendour  in  keeping  with  the  progressive  spirit  of  the  twentieth 
century. 

Having  described  diverse  portions  of  the  great  empire  and  commented 
upon  the  condition  of  the  people,  it  is  proper  that  our  parting  glance  should 
be  focused  upon  this  singular  standpoint  of  the  unhappy  race  at  the  present 
time.  It  is  expected  to  find  a  people  at  their  best  in  their  native  land, 
under  such  environments  as  the}^  have  builded  about  them.  This  rule 
does  not  apply  to  the  Celestial  race.  In  Hawaii  the  Chinese,  who  have 
become  a  large  percentage  of  the  population,  are  prosperous,  progressive, 
^  industrious,  and  peaceful.  Here  they  build  them  comfortable  homes,  and 
rear  around  them  the  attractions  of  a  civilised  life.  They  do  this  easily, 
quickly,  and  as  if  "  to  the  manner  born."  In  the  Philippines  they  move 
along  a  plape  not  altogether  against  their  future  happiness.  They  show 
an  apt  tact  in  business  and  accumulate  wealth.  We  see  them  thus,  in 
varying  stages,  according  to  the  civilisation  and  advantages  surrounding 
them,  wherever  they  have  found  their  way.  They  do  this,  too,  every- 
where they  appear,  whether  in  the  North  or  South,  East  or  West,  as  busi- 
ness men  in  Hawaii  or  coolies  in  Australia,  as  ambassadors  to  foreign 
governments,  or  as  sightseers  in  strange  lands,  without  losing  those 
peculiar  characteristics  which  mark  them  as  a  distinct  race  of  Ininian 
beings,  wearing  always  the  same  clothes,  eating  the  same  food,  imbued 
with  the  same  inner  qualities  of  industr}^,  as  have  distinguished  them  for 
thousands  of  years. 

At  home  we  should  expect  to  find  the  Chinaman  at  his  best.  Alas !  he 
there  appears  at  his  worst.  Whether  in  the  gilded  mansion  of  tbe 
mandarin,  or  in  the  filthy  den  of  the  narrow  alle}'  of  the  crowded  city,  or 
in  the  bamboo  hut  in  the  wilderness,  we  find  the  highest  and  the  lowest  of 
the  race  fettered  by  tradition  and  handicapped  by  customs  institutcil  thou- 
sands of  years  before  their  day.  The  best  are  steeped  in  corniption  and 
superstition.  The  poorest,  circnniseribed  in  their  energies,  are  confined  to 
the  narrow  orbit  of  their  own  sphere.  Their  superiors  allow  them  no 
liberty;  their  ceaseless  toil  brhigs  them  but  slight  reward;  they  are 
chained  to  the  soil. 

In  the  ignorance  and  bitterness  of  heart  of  the  masses,  hating  the  more 
fortunate,  they  unite  in  guilds  and  unions,  which  eventually  work  them 
harm  rather  than  good.     The  paramount  object  of  the  congsee,  or  guild,  is 


identical  with  that  of  the  rich  man,  namely,  to  rule  or  monopolise  what- 
ever comes  in  its  way.  They  try  it  in  trade  ;  they  try  it  in  society ;  they 
try  it  in  government.  One  class  combines  to  oppose  those  higher  in  power ; 
another,  a  scale  lower,  unites  to  baffle  them ;  the  peasants  of  the  outly- 
ing districts  associate  in  iron-clad  unions  to  limit  the  power  of  the  local 
officials.  In  their  efforts  these  clans  cause  dissensions  and  disturbances, 
to  quell  which  the  government,  with  reins  that  hang  loosely  over  them, 
attempts  to  keep  them  under  subjection  by  its  police.     To  meet  these,  local 


TERMIXATIOX  OF  THE  GREAT  "WALL,  GULF  OF  PE  CHI  LI. 


bands  of  men  called  Sam-sings,  whose  avowed  purpose  it  is  to  fight  the 
officials,  are  organised  to  effect  this  purpose.  These  troublesome  factors 
have  been  described  by  one  who  has  seen  evidence  of  their  work  as 
follows : 

"  The  Sam-sings  live  by  looting,  and  are  on  the  watch  for  any  excuse 
for  exercising  their  talents.  Each  hoey,  or  society,  must  have  so  many  of 
them,  but  I  do  not  know  any  means  to  ascertain  their  numbers.  They  are 
a  regular  fighting  people,  and  are  paid  so  much  a  month."  Painful  evi- 
dence of  their  work  is  everywhere  apparent  in  the  province  of  Yunnan. 

Living  a  monotonous  life,  a  family  in  moderate  circumstances  has  for 


CHINA.  465 

food  an  almost  unvarying  diet,  consisting  of  a  bowl  of  rice  washed  down 
with  a  bowl  of  soup.  In  some  localities  salt  fish,  and  cabbage,  well 
seasoned,  are  also  eaten.  Those  in  better  condition  display  rich  soups, 
oysters,  or  shell-fish,  fish  boiled  or  roasted,  pork,  cooked  in  various  ways, 
roast  duck,  and  vegetables.  On  the  whole,  the  diet  of  a  Chinaman  is  far 
better  than  the  accounts  commonly  given  would  have  us  believe.  Some 
of  the  very  poorest  in  the  great  cities  do  at  times  eat  such  viands  as  cats, 
rats,  and  dogs,  but  these  are  exceptional  cases,  and  denote  exceedingly 
straitened  circumstances  in  the  family. 

The  Chinese  drink  warm,  with  their  meals,  shiu-chiu,  or  heated  rice  -wine, 
which  is  very  healthful,  and  not  disagreeable  wdien  a  person  has  become 
used  to  it.  Rice  wine  is  the  national  drink,  boatmen  being  especially 
heavy  drinkers.  Still,  it  is  left  for  the  literary  class  to  excel  in  drinking 
capacity,  it  being  considered  a  part  of  their  "  gifts  "  to  be  able  to  partake  of 
a  liberal  quantity  without  letting  the  liquor  interfere  with  their  locomotion. 
A  literary  celebrity  esteems  it  a  high  compliment  to  be  told  that  his 
"  drinking  powers  show  great  genius."  The  Chinese  consider  cold  water 
fit  only  for  barbarians  to  drink,  and  thus  hot  beverages  are  everywhere  in 
vog-ue.  If  water  is  drunk  it  is  first  warmed.  No  doubt  this  custom  origi- 
nated  from  the  impure  condition  of  the  water  supply  in  the  cities. 

A  Chinaman  never  allows  his  profile  to  be  taken,  as  he  believes  it  is  not 
good  taste  to  have  one  eye  hidden;  his  portrait  therefore  must  possess 
two  eyes  and  as  many  ears.  Neither  will  he  willingjy  allow  any  shadow 
to  fall  on  his  features  or  figure,  claiming  that  it  is  contrary  to  nature,  as 
the  sunlight  falls  fully  on  an  object.  Though  only  a  few  of  the  Chinese 
have  beards,  and  they  profess  to  despise  the  growth  cliaracteristic  of  for- 
eigners, their  pictures  of  heroes  and  great  men  of  the  past  alwa^'s  have 
this  adornment,  while  the  chances  are  that  the  individuals  in  question  had 
smooth  faces. 

A  ludicrous  story  is  told  of  the  jinrikisha  man  and  \ho  American  sailor, 
which  illustrates  the  superstition  attached  to  the  wearing  of  the  pigtail. 
A  Chinese  gentleman,  riding  in  his  favourite  carriage,  unwittingly  allowed 
the  end  of  his  long  queue  to  get  caught  in  one  of  the  wheels.  He  was  soon 
apprised  of  his  mishap,  as  the  rope  of  hair  wound  round  and  round  the 
axle,  growing  tighter  at  each  revolution  of  the  wheel.  The  ■sactim  shouted 
for  his  human  horse  to  stop,  but  mistaking  his  cries  f(^r  an  order  to  go 


faster,  the  jinrikisha  man  broke  into  a  smart  trot,  thus  adding  to  the 
terror  and  pain  of  his  master,  who  fairly  shrieked  in  despair.  What  the 
outcome  would  have  been  is  hard  to  conjecture  had  not  a  third  person 


COREAN    MANDARIN. 

appeared  upon  the  scene.  A  sailor  passing  at  that  moment  discovered  the 
plight  of  the  Chinese  noble,  and  whipping  out  his  knife  cut  off  at  a  single 
stroke  the  insignia  both  of  a  slavish  custom  and  the  dignity  of  his  high 
rank.  If  the  almond-eyed  gentleman  was  freed  from  his  peculiar  and 
painful  situation,  it  was  at  a  sacrifice  which  made  his  howls  of  rage  outdo 


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CHINA. 


467 


his  previous  yells  of  suffering.  His  friends  saw  what  had  been  done,  and 
understanding  only  the  insult  which  had  been  done  their  countryman, 
made  a  furious  dash  for  the  surprised  seaman.  Seeing  his  predicament,  he 
fled  for  his  life,  with  a  mob  of  shrieking  Chinese  at  his  heels.  This  rabble, 
not  disposed  to  abandon  the  pursuit  at  the  shore,  began  to  swarm  out 
toward  the  vessel,  which  was  compelled  to  put  out  to  sea  as  soon  as  the 
sailor  got  aboard,  in  order  to  escape  the  Avarlike  uprising. 

Having  described  the  origin  and  purpose  of  the  Boxers  in  fomenting 


SQUARE  IN  SEOUL,  COREA. 


the  recent  struggle  of  the  Chinese  against  the  combined  forces  of  tlie 
foreigners,  and  having  seen  them  replaced  by  another  power,  it  is  necessary 
that  we  review  this  power  before  we  leave  the  subject.  To  understand 
fully  the  real  situation,  it  is  necessary  to  take  into  consideration  the  three 
parties  forming  the  political  powers  at  work  in  the  empire  previous  to  the 
outbreak  of  1899.  The  first  of  these,  because  the  most  wortliy,  was  tlie 
party  of  progress,  headed  by  the  emperor  and  most  ably  encouraged  by 
Viceroy  Li  Hung  Chang;  second,  and  older  tlian  tlie  other,  the  party  of 
non-progress   and    Chinese    seclusion,   with    the    empress  dowager   as  its 


astute  leader;   last,  the  foreign  haters,  represented  by  the  Boxers  and 
their  associates. 

Three  elements  entered  into  the  struggle  of  these  parties.  The  second 
became  politically  jealous  of  the  first,  and  through  the  skilful  manipulations 
of  the  empress  dowager  managed  to  seize  the  reins  of  government  from 
the  hands  of  the  emperor.  Religious  fanaticism  called  into  exi.stence  the 
third  party,  which  gained  strength  upon  the  mistaken  idea  of  foreign 
industry  ruining  the  prospects  of  the  labouring  class,  whose  sole  privilege 
it  seemed  to  be  was  to  toil  for  the  bare  sustenance  of  life.  The  party  of 
the  empress  soon  fell  in  with  this  foreign  antagonism. 

The  emperor,  who  is  neither  physically*  nor  intellectually  strong,  has  a 
slender  figure,  and  a  countenance  with  little  expression  of  firmness.  It  is 
an  oval  face,  the  features  being  regular,  and  the  dark  eyes  expressive  of 
greater  personality  than  the  rest  of  his  countenance.  He  may  be,  as  he 
looks,  a  weak  person  ;  his  course  of  action  in  some  respects  has  shown  it ; 
in  others  he  has  given  ample  proof  of  both  a  high  intellectuality  and  a 
determination  of  purpose  worthy  of  emulation.  As  a  child,  Kwang  Su 
showed  marked  desires  for  foreign  toys  and  inventions,  until  his  apartments 
at  the  palace  became  a  veritable  museum  of  the  most  ingenious  and 
wonderful  productions  of  the  Occidental  world.  Eventually  foreign  toys 
and  playthings  were  exchanged  for  foreign  books  and  a  knowledge  of 
foreign  affairs.  The  effect  was  remarkable  and  widespread.  Not  only  at 
Pekin,  but  throughout  the  empire,  every  one  seemed  to  be  seeking  the 
mastery  of  other  languages,  especially  the  English.  The  result  of  this 
could  not  be  other  than  of  vast  benefit  to  China.  Among  the  other  notable 
acts  that  the  emperor  did  was  to  issue  a  series  of  edicts  which  favoured  the 
establishment  of  seats  of  learning,  the  encouragement  of  art,  science,  and 
agriculture,  the  building  of  railroads,  the  adoption  of  Western  drill  for  the 
Tartar  troops,  the  introduction  of  patent  and  copyright  laws,  Boards  of 
War  and  Foreign  Offices,  the  encouragement  of  trade,  the  establish- 
ment of  school  boards,  the  abolishment  of  useless  offices,  a  Bureau  of 
Mines  and  Railroads,  the  encouragement  of  political  writings,  the  mak- 
ing of  commercial  bureaus,  the  instruction  of  tea  and  silk  raisers,  the 
abolition  of  slow  courier  posts  and  the  establishment  of  the  Imperial 
Customs  Post,  the  publication  of  newspapers.  This  does  not  complete 
the   list,  many   items    of   which   may   have   been    impracticable    at   the 


CHINA. 


469 


time,  but  well  to  be  discussed,  while  many  of  tliem  were  actually  carried 
into  effect. 

The  magnitude  of  this  reform  movement  cannot  be  estimated,  or  the 
result  foreseen,  ex- 
cept that  it  must 
redound  to  the  ever- 
lasting good  of  his 
empire  and  the 
benefit  of  the  rest 
of  the  world.  One 
of  the  noblest  re- 
sults has  been  to 
develop  among  the 
young  reformers  of 
this  imperial  leader 
a  patriotism  and 
regard  for  native 
land  which  until 
then  never  existed 
in  China  in  the 
sense  that  it  has 
in  the  West. 

Naturally  such  a 
radical  revolution, 
coming  with  a 
breadth  and  rapid- 
ity unknown  in  the 
empire,  would 
arouse  intense  op- 
position. Quite  as 
naturally,  she  who 
had  been  tlie  wife  of  an  emperor  half  a  century  ago  became  the 
leader.  Of  high  birth,  she  came  from  one  of  ilic  xntthcrn  ]>vii\inces 
to  become  the  wife  of  Hien  Fung,  wlio  became  nilci-  in  ISoO.  and  ten 
years  later,  his  capital  wrested  from  him  by  the  bh'itish  and  Fi-eii<li.  <lied 
an  exile  in  Mongolia.     This   remarkable  woman    accompanied    liim,  and 


I'AiN  ri.Ni.    1  i;iiM 


■  i;i  AN     1  i.Mi'i.i: 


when  he  died,  soon  after,  she  returned  to  begin  her  extraordinary  career 
at  the  Chinese  court.  Her  son  Tung  Chi,  only  five  years  of  age,  became 
the  successor  of  her  husband,  and  he  reigned  thirteen  years,  during  which 
period  she  virtually  ruled.  At  his  death  she  selected  a  young  brother  of 
her  late  husband  as  the  titular  sovereign,  under  the  title  of  Kwang  Su,  or 
Illustrious  Successor.  As  he  was  only  three  years  old  at  the  time  of  his 
accession  to  the  throne,  she  reassumed  her  regency,  on  the  ground  of  his 
immaturity.  When  he  became  of  sufficient  age  to  assume  the  government, 
she  still  retained  her  power,  on  the  claim  that  he  was  incapable  of  ruling. 
If  a  weak  monarch,  his  w^eakness  was  of  a  kind  that  is  not  altogether 
undesirable.  It  is  certain  that  he  was  too  weak  to  cope  with  the  strong 
mind  of  her  who  sat  behind  his  throne,  concealed  by  a  curtain,  but  able  to 
see  those  w4io  sought  audience  with  the  emperor,  —  literally  the  power 
behind  the  throne. 

In  justice  to  her  it  should  be  acknowledged  that  in  the  early  days  of 
her  regency  she  was  not  the  bitter  enemy,  to  foreigners  that  she  has 
since  hecome.  It  was  she  wdio  encouraged  the  young  emperor  to  study 
the  English  language,  and  actually  started  him  on  his  way  of  enlightenment 
and  reform.  Perhaps  this  fact  gave  a  bitterness  to  her  heart  and  caused 
her  to  become  the  implacable  opponent  to  those  outside  her  dominion. 
Few  women  in  the  history  of  the  Avorld  have  sw^ayed  a  greater  power  or 
held  it  longer.  She  is  now  a  little  over  sixty,  and  one  of  her  proud, 
imperious  nature  must  feel  with  an  intense  disappointment  her  final  over- 
throw. She  knows  she  is  hated  by  the  more  progressive  of  her  people, 
and  that  they  exult  in  her  downfall,  but  she  gives  no  indication  of 
failing  strength  in  mind  and  body,  while  she  is  capable  of  reasserting  her 
independence  where  few  if  any  could  succeed.  Like  her  imperial  kinsfolk, 
she  is  a  Manchu,  and  has  at  heart  the  interest  of  her  race,  and  not  that  of 
those  who  still  pride  themselves  upon  being  descendants  of  the  learned 
and  powerful  Mings,  wdio  left  some  of  the  noblest  monuments  of  their 
greatness  that  China  possesses.  Her  nephew,  the  Emperor  Kwang  Su,  is 
now  in  his  thirtieth  year,  and  it  has  been  twenty-seven  years  since  the 
empress  dowager,  with  the  consent  of  the  leading  princes,  made  him  the 
nominal  ruler  of  the  Chinese  Empire. 

In  the  late  uprising  in  which  this  famous,  or  infamous,  woman  has 
taken  such  an  active  part,  she  and  her  supporters  have  much  to  answer 


CHINA. 


471 


for.  But  theirs  is  not  all  the  blame.  There  is  not  a  nation  on  earth 
which  must  not  in  a  certain  degree  share  it  ^vith  them.  ^Ye  have  shown 
the  record  of  Great  Britain  and  France  in  the  disgraceful  Opium  War. 
The  wrong  did  not  stop  liere.  When  France  wanted  to  dispose  of  her 
goods  at  a  high  profit  in  China,  she  stole  Tonquin,  causing  the  loss  of 
many  lives  and  much  property  in  the  struggle.  Again,  in  1884,  in  the 
words  of  Rev.  C.  M.  Cohen,  "a  French  vessel  steamed  into  a  Chinese  port, 


AKISTOCUATIC    QUAKTli;     1  V    M-Ori..    CORKA. 

and,  without  even  a  declaration  of  war,  Mew  up  the  entire  Chinese  fleet, 
killins:  three  thousand  Chinese  soldiers  and  marines."  Tliis  is  unt  all  of 
which  France  is  gnilty. 

Not  long  since,  two  German  Jesuit  priests  —  never  peace  factors  — 
were  killed  in  the  interior  of  China.  As  Li  Hung  Chang  justly  remarked, 
"In  any  other  country  such  a  case  would  have  liad  a  fair  trial,  the  guilty 
•would  have  been  arrested  and  punished."  All  of  tliis  would  have  been 
done  by  the  Chinese,  and  far  more  quickly  than  we  settle  such  cases  in  our 
courts,  but  China  was  not  allowed  to  do  so.     Germany  saw  her  oppor- 


tunity,  and  sent  her  gunboats  and  soldiers,  and  stole  Kiaocliau,  and  milea 
and  miles  of  territory !  Doctor  Cohen,  whom  we  have  already  quoted  in 
regard  to  the  French  injuries,  says  of  the  Germans :  "  Only  three  years 
ago  a  private  party  of  Germans  sailed  up  a  Chinese  river  with  the  German 
flag  floating  at  the  masthead  of  the  vessel,  landed,  and  began  digging  up 
the  tombs  of  the  Chinese  kings,  hunting  for  treasures ! "  Imagine  a 
party  of  foreigners  sailing  up  the  Potomac  or  the  Hudson,  and  despoiling 
the  tomb  of  our  Washington  or  Grant.     No  people  think  more  of  their 


^'^-a^t-   ^.  -  ^ 

king's    palace,    SEOUL,    COREA. 

dead  than  the  Chinese,  and  with  feelings  of  horror  they  rallied  against  the 
destroyers,  and  killed  every  man  of  them.  As  soon  as  the  news  of  this 
"  outrage  "  reached  the  ears  of  the  German  consul,  a  w^ar-ship  was  des- 
patched up  the  river,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  ill-fated  village  w^ere  put 
to  death  and  their  homes  burned. 

Our  own  record  is  not  a  clean  one.  If  we  have  not  blackened  it  in 
their  land  with  useless  deeds  of  violence,  we  have  at  home  denied  the 
Chinese  what  we  have  accorded  to  the  most  disreputable  immigrant  of 
Europe.  Nor  have  we  stopped  there,  but  our  newspapers  have  from  time 
to  time  contained  accounts  of  lynching,  shooting,  or  burning  alive  some 


CHINA.  X7?, 

hapless  immigrant  from  the  Far  East,  whose  greatest  crime  was  his  stub- 
born determination  to  remain  a  quiet  and  peaceful  citizen.  As  many  as 
fifty  Chinamen  have  been  made  to  suffer  death  in  our  AVestern  cities, 
within  an  hour,  where  no  hand  has  been  lifted  to  Ijring  the  perpetrators  of 
the  fiendish  massacre  to  justice.  All  these  horriljle  proceedings  eventu- 
ally reach  the  friends  and  relatives  in  the  home  land.  Is  it  a  wonder  the 
foreigner  is  looked  upon  as  a  "  devil  ?  " 

In  atonement  for  her  conduct  toward  the  Chinese  at  houie,  America  has 
acted  a  magnanimous  part  with  the  Chinese  in  their  own  land.  In  the 
recent  Christian  crusade  to  rescue  the  legations  and  missionaries,  she  has 
performed  a  noble  work.  She  will  no  doul)t  stand  firm  and  Iionourable  in 
the  settlement  of  the  present  difficulties.  Russia  has  been  getting  slice 
after  slice  of  territory  on  tlie  northern  frontier,  until  the  Russian  bear  has 
become  hungry  for  the  whole.  The  British  lion  has  stalked  along  the 
Great  River,  until  he  felt  to  him  belonged  the  lordship  of  its  broad  and 
fertile  valleys.  The  French  tiger  has  crept  stealthily  forth  upon  tlie 
southern  provinces  with  the  same  greedy,  insatiable  appetite.  But 
American  intercourse  with  China  has  been  of  a  hio;her  nature.  Onlv  a 
fair  return  for  the  investment  made  has  been  expected.  She  has  helped 
to  raise  the  standard  of  agriculture  and  manufacture  and  make  it  redound 
with  greater  profit  and  benefit  to  them  unto  whom  it  belongs.  At  this 
time  there  is  contemplated  a  railroad  by  an  American  sj'ndicate  which 
shall  connect  the  provinces  of  Kwang-si,  Kwang-tung,  and  Hunan  with 
Canton,  thus  making  available  the  great  resources  of  tliis  rich  region. 
All  the  higher  institutions  of  learning  and  enlightenment  of  the  Chinese 
are  maintained  with  an  American  at  the  head.  Is  not  this  glory  enough 
for  one  nation?  It  shows  conclusively  that  the  interests  of  tlie  two 
countries  are  fast  becoming  mutual.  Perhaps  the  greatest  good  to  co\nQ 
out  of  the  sudden  appearance  of  the  United  States  in  the  Far  I^ast  is  the 
fact  that  she  is  there,  if  not  an  outspoken,  the  silent  uinnitor  of  alYairs  in 
which  not  only  the  peace  of  China  is  concerned  Ijut  that  of  Asia  and  of 
Europe.  Who  is  bold  enough  to  predict  Avhat  the  result  would  liave  been 
but  for  the  presence  of  this  A'oung  Queen  of  the  "\Yt\st,  Columbia  ?  Under 
the  existing  condition  a  satisfactory  adjustment  is  looked  forward  to  with 
confidence. 

In   making  a  comparison  of  the  Chinese  with  other  governments,  it 


should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  former  is  still  in  its  clannish  condition, 
having  never  passed  beyond  that  secondary  form  of  feudalism  from  which 
Japan  has  so  recently  emerged.  Professing  to  hold  a  great  central  power, 
the  so-called  empire  has  never  been  able  to  control  its  many  inland 
provinces.  This  has  been  shown  over  and  again  in  its  inability  to  sup- 
press the  numerous  rebellions  of  the  tribal  population,  or  to  stay  the 
ravages  of  the  pirates  upon  the  seas  and  the  brigands  amid  its  mountains. 


COKKAX    TEMPLE. 


Ay,  further  than  this,  it  has  been  proved  by  the  fact  that  these  outlaws  of 
the  interior  have  often  banded  themselves  together^  formed  so-called 
military  bodies,  met  in  pitched  battle  the  regular  soldiers,  and  in  the  flush 
of  triumph  dared  to  set  np  a  government  of  their  own. 

In  Manchuria,  Russia  has  had  to  keep  a  standing  force  of  men  to  pro- 
tect her  railroads.  The  Germans,  in  the  province  of  Shan-tung,  have  had 
even  more  difficulty  in  maintaining  commercial  interests.  On  the  West 
River  and  the  Yangtse  Kiang  the  British  have  had  to  patrol  their  path- 
ways with  armed  *men  to  protect  their  interests,  government  being  help- 


CHINA.  47.", 

less  to  do  so,  had  it  shown  any  desire  to  that  end.  Along  the  latter  river 
the  people  are  more  peaceful  than  anywhere  else  in  China.  France,  gain- 
ing the  power  of  magistrates  for  her  bishops,  has  posed  as  the  protector  of 
priests  and  the  Catholic  Church.  The  advent  of  the  Americans  into  the 
Philippines  has  placed  them  in  the  midst  of  this  great  beehive  of  clannish 
races. 

Chinese  rule  has  been  based  on  the  aphorism  that  "  whatever  is,  is  best," 
and  that  it  is  better  to  let  matters  alone  so  long  as  the}'  offer  no  serious 
disturbance  at  the  head.  Again,  the  government,  or  rather  its  officials,  are 
corrupt  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest.  There  is  no  office  without  its 
price,  or  its  "  perquisites,"  which  mean  riches  for  him  who  has  laid  his 
plans  and  invested  his  means  so  as  to  secure  it. 

We  have  shown  that  the  country  is  rich  in  its  natural  treasures,  one  of 
the  richest  in  the  world,  —  a  virgin  wealth  actually  beyond  estimation  in 
value.  The  individual  riches  of  the  empire  are  great,  —  how  great  no  statis- 
tician can  tell,  —  though  the  masses  of  the  inhabitants  are  extremely  poor. 
In  this  connection  there  is  a  sort  of  satisfaction  in  l)elieving  that  the 
population  of  China,  as  it  has  been  given,  is  far  too  high.  Divide  the 
number,  claimed  for  those  who  are  grovelling  in  want  and  hopeless  misery, 
by  two,  and  the  safer  side  of  truth  will  have  been  found  in  estimating  the 
population  of  the  Chinese  Empire. 

If  an  object  of  scorn  and  ridicule,  the  ancient  empire  in  the  weakness  of 
its  extreme  old  age  deserves  the  respect  due  to  the  aged,  and  it  becomes 
the  allied  powers  to  act  cautiously  and  with  mutual  agreement  for  the 
good  of  China.  That  they  can  ultimately  overpower  the  crumbling  dynasty 
is  a  foregone  conclusion,  but  the  rivers  will  flow  crimson  to  the  sea,  and  the 
rain  of  lead  will  fall  like  pebbles  on  the  shores  of  the  ocean  of  people. 
Then,  the  victory  of  conquest  secured,  another  question  will  confront  the 
triumphant  nations  that  will  be  of  deeper  and  broader  signifu-ance,  and 
more  hazardous  to  settle  than  war  itself. 

The  open  door  seems  at  present  to  be  the  policy  of  the  allu-s.  .ind  it  is 
the  true  policy  for  all  concerned.  Let  the  Flowery  Kingdom  remain 
intact,  but  do  not  let  foreign  influence  and  prtjgrt's.s  be  checked.  It  is 
their  duty  as  the  representatives  of  modern  thought  and  teachings  to  meet 
half-way  these  followers  of  the  Confucian  liglit  of  oMcji  times  in  this  mat- 
ter of  the  adjustment  of  the  rivalsystems  of  acquired  and  inherited  govern- 


ment.     Let  the  missionary  continue  his  good  work  ;  the  scholar  his  labours 
of  education;  let  the  business  agent  extend  his  trade;  the  manufacturer 


GATE    OF    COREAN    WALLED    TOWX. 


build  his  mills;  let  foreign  ships  of  commerce  fill  the  harbours;  let  the 
empress  dowager  be  removed  from  all  possible  meddling  with  the  political 
code  of  government ;  and,  above  all,  let  the  Emperor  Kwang  Su  return  to 


CHINA.  477 

his  throne  ;  and  then,  when  China  shall  no  longer  be  governed  by  haters  of 
foreign  races  or  the  ally  of  ungovernable  rebels,  we  shall  see  the  rejuve- 
nated empire  rise  from  the  ashes  of  her  nineteenth  century  dissolution,  to 
enter  upon  the  twentieth  century  a  progressive  and  prosperous  kingdom 
among  the  great  powers  of  the  world. 


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